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https://archive.org/detaiis/narrativeofjourn01hebe_0 

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JUST  PUBLISHED 


BY 

€AR£Y,  LEA  & CAREY, 

I. 

THE 

AMERICAN 

q^UARTERLY  REVIEW, 

No. 


CONTENTS. 


Atmospherical  Phenomena, 
Hallam’s  Constitutional  History, 
Voyage  to  the  Moon, 

Sparks’s  Life  of  Ledyard, 
Dana’s  Poems, 
gymnastics/ 


German  Literature, 
Irving’s  Life  of  Columbus, 
The  Greeks  and  Turks, 
Bausset’s  Napoleon, 
Russian  Mission  to  China. 


II. 

AMERICAN 

ORNITHOLOGY; 

OR  THE 

NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  BIRDS 

INHABITING  THE 

UNITER  STATES, 

.NOT  GIVEN  BY  WILSON. 

WITH  , 

FIGURES  DRAWN,  ENGRAVED,  AND  COLOURED  FROM  NATURE. 

BY 

$ 

CHARLES  LUCIAN  BONAPARTE. 

VOL.  I. 

Vol.  II.  will  be  published  in  June,  and  the  third  and  last  volume  early  in 
the  autumn. 

*^*  Of  this  splendid  work  a very  limited  number  is  printed,  the  greater  part 
of  which  are  already  Subscribed  for.  Those  gentlemen  who  possess  Wilson’s 
Ornithology,  and  desire  to  render  it  complete,  are  therefore  requested  to  be 
early  in  their  application  for  copies. 


^ JuU  Published  by  Carey ^ Lea  ^ Carey, 

III. 

THE  FRENCH  COOK;  by  LOUIS  EUSTACHE  UDE,  Ci-devant  Cook  Ic 
Louis  XVIII.  and  the  Eavl  of  Sefton,  and  Steward  to  his  late  Royal  Highness, 
the  Duke  of  York.  First  American,  from  the  eighth  London  edition.— In  one 
vol.  12mo.  With  plates. 

“Mr.  Ude  is,  beyond  competition,  the  most  learned  of  cooks— even  of  French  cooks.”— Lit.  Ca«. 

IV. 

YES  AND  NO,  A TALE  OF  THE  DAY;  by  the  AUTHOR  of  MATILDA. 
— ^In  one  vol.  12mo. 

We  have,  indeed,  been  very  much  pleased  with  these  volumes.  They  bear  upon  them  the  stamp 
of  genuineness.  We  would  meet  with  all  the  parties  any  week  next  season,  and  swear  to  their  iden- 
tity. But  this  does  not  arise  from  their  being  portraits  of  individuals:  it  is  owing  to  a greater  merit,  t© 
their  being  true  to  life  and  nature.”— Lit.  Gaz. 

V. 

SKETCHES  OF  PERSIA;  from  the  Journals  of  a TRAVELLER  IN  THE 
EAST. — In  one  vol.  12mo. 

“ It  is  truly  a delightful  book,  endued  with  the  interest  of  romance,  and  possessing  all  the  value  and 
attraction  that  could  be  communicated  to  a journal  of  travels  by  an  observer  of  thejiighest  rank  and 
best  qualifications.”— A^rttiojjai  Gazette. 

VI. 

LORD  BYRON  AND  SOME  OF  HIS  CONTEMPORARIES,  by  LEIGH 
HUNT.  In  8vo. 

“ Mr,  Leigh  Hunt,  however,  is  not  one  of  these  dishonest  chroniclers.  His  position  with  regard  to 
Lord  Byron,  and  the  long  and  intimate  habits  of  intercourse  vdth  him  which  he  enjoyed,  enabled  hitp 
to  contemplate  the  noble  poet’s  character,  in  all  its  darkness  and  brightness.  Gifted,  too,  like  the  sub- 
ject of  his  memoir,  with  very  remarkable  talents,  he  is  much  more  to  be  relied  on,  both  in  his  choice 
of  points  of  view,  and  his  manner  of  handling  his  subject.  He  is  not  likely  to  spoil  a bon-mot,  an  epi- 
gram, or  a conversation;  and  while  he  can  seize  all  that  was  really  piquant  about  his  lordship,  he  is  in- 
finitely above  retailing  the  low  gossip  and  garbage,  which  some  Memoir  writers  have  done,  in  the  true 
spirit  of  a waiting  maid  or  lacquey.”— Monthly  Magazine, 

VII. 

SAYINGS  AND  DOINGS,  OR  SKETCHES  FROM  LIFE,  third  series. 

“ Cousin  William  is,  perhaps,  the  highest  effort  of  the  author’s  deservedly  popular  pen;  and  no 
greater  encomium  need  be  bestowed.”— Lfferary  Gazette. 

VIII. 

WHIMS  AND  ODDITIES,  IN  PROSE  AND  VERSE,  with  forty  original 
designs,  by  THOMAS  HOOD. 

“ But  it  is  in  vain  to  describe  its  companions;  since  we  may  leave  it  to  the  eye,  which  will  discern 
more  of  the  merits  of  these  droll  fancies  at  one  glance,  than  we  can  convey  any  idea  of  in  language, 
were  we  to  fill  the  gazette.”— Literary  Gazette. 

“ Here  we  conclude;  most  heartily  thanking  Mr.  Hood  for  the  large  quantum  of  ennui  he  has  driven 
off  through  the  weariest  days  of  November:  and  as  cordially  recommending  his  work  to  all  who  love 
pleasantry  and  admire  talent.” — Ibid. 

IX. 

HERBERT  LACY,  A NOVEL;  by  the  AUTHOR  OF  GRANBY.  In  2 vols. 

“ The  story  is  one  of  grealt  interest,  the  characters  admirably  drawn,  and  kept  up  to  the  last,  while 
the  language  is  more  than  commonly  elegant.” — Literary  Gazette. 

X. 

SURE  METHODS  OF  IMPROVING  HEALTH  AND  PROLONGING  LIFE, 
BY  REGULATING  THE  DIET  AND  REGIMEN;  embracing  all  the  most 
approved  principles  of  health  and  longevity,  and  exhibiting  particularly  the 
remarkable  power  of  proper  food,  wine,  air,  exercise,  sleep,  clothing,  &c.  in 
the  cure  of  obstinate  chronic  diseases,  as  well  as  in  promoting  health  and  long 
life.  To  which  is  added  an  account  of  the  art  and  excellent  effects  of  train- 
ing for  health,  rules  for  reducing  corpulence,  and  Maxims  of  Health  fob  the 
Bilious  and  Nervous,  the  Consumptive,  Men  of  Letters,  and  People  of  Fa- 
shion. Illustrated  by  cases.  By  a PHYSICIAN.  First  American  Edition,  with 
Additions. 

“ Th«  subject  of  this  book  is  interesting  to  every  individual  in  existence;  and  we  are  tlisposed  to 
think  it  the  nmst  useful  and  rational  Avork  of  the  kind  we  have  met  with.  It  contains  many  hints  novel 
to  us,  and  is  altogether  an  admirable  code  of  health.”— yft/cA'. 

“ The  tendency  of  tliis  volume  to  advance  the  important  objects  which  it  proposes  is  unquestionable, 
and  we  warmly  recommend  W'’—Neiv  Literary  Gazette. 

“No  person  can  read  it  without  receiving  impressive  hints  and  falling  into  salutary  reflection.  It 
embraces  all  the  details  of  personal  regimen.” — National  Gazette, 

XI. 

THE  CI.UBS  OF  LONDON;  with  Anecdotesof  their  Members,  Sketches  of 
Character  and  Conversation.  In  2 vols. 

This  work  comprises  anecdotes,  recollections  and  sketches  of  eminent  persons  belonging  to  the 
various  clubs,  not  oniy  in  oi  r own  days,  but  in  those  when  his  present  majesty  was  prince  ofWales. 

“ An  extreinely  amusing  performance.”— LtL  Gaz. 

XII. 

HUMOURS  OF  EUTOPIA;  a Tale  of  Colonial  Times,  by  AN  EUTOPIAN. 
2 vols.  12mo. 


3 


Just  Published  by  Carey^  Lea  ^ Cavey^ 


XIII. 

AMERICAN  NATURAL  HISTORY.  By  JOHN  D.  GODMAN,  M.  D.  3 vols. 
8vo.  plates. 

XIV. 

ELIA.  Essays  that  have  appeared  under  that  signature  in  the  London  Ma- 
gazine. 

XV. 

POEMS.  By  CHARLES  WEST  THOMSON.  18mo. 

XVI. 

THE  RED  ROVER.  By  the  AUTHOR  of  the  PILOT,  SPY,  &c.~ 2vols.  12mo. 

XVII. 

JlsOi  a very  handsome  and  uniform  edition  of 

THE  SPY,  PIONEERS,  PILOT,  LIONEL  LINCOLN,  LAST  OF  THE 
MOHICANS,  and  PRAIRIE.  In  12  vols.  royal  18mo. 

XVIII. 

PHILOSOPHY  IN  SPORT  made  SCIENCE  IN  EARNEST;  beingan  attempt 
to  illustrate  the  first  principles  of  Natural  Philosophy,  by  the  aid  of  Popular 
Toys  and  Sports.  2 vols.  18mo.  with  numerous  engravings  on  wood. 

' XIX. 

DEATH  BED  SCENES,  and  PASTORAL  CONVERSATIONS.  By  the  late 
.)OHN  WARTON,  D.  D.— In  1 vol.  8vo. 

Contents. — Chap.  I.  Infidelity.— II.  Atheism. — III.  Despair. — IV.  Parental 
Anger. — V.  Baptism.— VI.  Penitence. — VII.  Proselytism. — VIII.  Impatience.— 
IX.  Religious  Melancholy. — X.  Scepticism. 

“ It  has  often  occurred  to  me,  as  something  wonderful,  that,  amongst  the  vast  variety  of  books  which 
are  to  be  met  with,  on  the  important  subject  of  Religion,  there  should  still  be  wanted  a manual  for  the 
information  and  direction  of  the  Minister  in  his  daily  intercourse  with  sick  persons  and  other  members 
of  his  flock. 

“ Having  been  in  the  habit  then,  for  several  years,  of  remarking  this  defect  of  instruction  with  re- 
gard to  practical  divinity,  and  the  whole  business  of  a Parish  Pnest,  and  having  myself,  meanwhile, 
been  thrown  perpetually  into  the  most  interesting  and  awful  scenes  with  my  own  Parishioners,  I de- 
termined at  length  to  take  up  my  pen,  and  to  commit  to  paper  whatever  having  passed  under  my  per- 
sonal observation,  might  be  most  likely  to  be  useful  to  others  of  the  same  profession. 

“ I had  no  thought  originally  of  doing  more  than  assist  my  younger  brethren  of  the  clerical  order, 
who  might  be  appointed  to  the  management  of  large  parishes,  without  time  or  opportunities  to  prepare 
themselves  in  an  adequate  manner  for  so  difficult  and  momentous  an  undertaking.  But,  in  proceeding 
with  my  work^  I began  to  flatter  myself  with  the  notion  that  I may  possibly  both  amuse  and  instruct 
every  description  of  readers.  Many  persons  may  be  tempted,  upon  the  recommendation  of  the  clergy, 
to  peruse  the  book ; and  may  find  unexpectedly  their  fancy  pleased,  their  knowledge  increased,  and 
their  hearts  touched  and  improved.” 

*;,*  This  work  has  gone  rapidly  through  three  editions  in  England. 

XX. 

By  the  AUTHOR  of  BRAMBLETYE  HOUSE,  &c 


REUBEN  APSLEY. 
2 vols.  12mo. 


“ sir  Walter  Scott  must  learn  to  bear  a rival  near  the  throne.  His  contemporaries  are  already  begin- 
ning to  pay  a divided  allegiance.  They  think,  and  apparently  with  j ustice,  that  Horace  Smith  is 
second,  and  only  second,  to  the  once  sole  monarch.”-— Monthly  Magazine. 

XXI. 

VIVIAN  GREY.  3 vols.  12mo. 

“ We  hail  the  author  as  a master  in  his  art : and  we  may  venture  to  appeal  to  the  work  he  has  pro- 
duced, as  at  once  a prognostic  and  accomplishment  of  original  invention,  that  rare  faculty  in  the 
genius  of  this  age.” 


XXII. 

A KEY  TO  VIVIAN  GREY;  being-  a Complete  Exposition  of  the  Royal, 
Noble,  and  Fashionable  characters,  who  figure  in  that  most  extraordinary  work. 

XXIII. 

PERSONAL  NARRATIVE  OF  A JOURNEY  FROM  INDIA  TO  ENGLAND, 
by  Bussorah,  Bagdad,  the  Ruins  of  Babylon,  Curdistan,  the  Court  of  Persia,  the 
Western  Shore  of  the  Caspian  Sea,  Astrakhan,  Nishney  Novogorod,  Moscow, 
and  St.  Petersburgh,  in  the  year  1824.  By  Captain  the  Hon.  GEORGE  KEP- 
PEL.  In  8vo. 

All  the  Magazines  and  Reviews  have  united  in  giving  this  work  the  highest  character. 

XXIV. 

THE  O’BRIENS  AND  O’FLAHERTYS,  a National  Tale.  By  LADY  MOR» 
GAN.  In  2 vols.  12mo. 

■ ^ XXV. 

TALES  OF  A GrRANDFATHER.  By  the  AUTHOR  of  WAVERLEY.  la 
2 vols.  18mo. 


In  the  Press,  and  will  speedily  he  Published 

By  CAREY,  LEA  & CAREY, 

I. 

The  ROMANCE  of  HISTORY.— ENGLAND.— By  HENRY  NEELE. 

‘‘  Truth  is  strange — stranger  than  fiction.” — Byron. 

“ The  plan  of  this  work  is  excellent.  It  consists  of  a tale,  founded  either  on  legendary  lore,  tradi  - 
tion, or  liistoiical  fact,  for  every  morrarch’s  reigrr,  from  WilUam  the  Conqueror  to  Charles  the  First, 
inclusive.  It  necessarily  follows  that  there  is  great  variety  both  of  interest  and  character.  The  early 
monkish  superstitions  are  succeeded  hy  stern  chivalry;  and  chivalry  yields  in  turn  to  the  gradual  al- 
teration of  national  manners,  as  we  descend  the  stream  of  time  to  the  latest  period.  Mr.  Neele  has  be- 
stowed great  pains  upon  his  many  topics,  and  displays  much  ability  in  his  treatment  of  them.”— L zte- 
rary  Gazette. 

“ Mr.  Neele  has  produced  tales  of  the  most  vivid  and  irrtense  interest.”— Literary  Magnet. 

“ His  work  is  a valuable  addition  to  all  the  Histories  of  Etrgland  extant.”— ^r/w^’  Magazine, 

“ We  recommend  Mr.  Neele’s  very  interesting  and  clever  work  to  the  careful  perusal  oi  our  readers.” 
—London  Weekly  Revietv. 

II. 

FAIRY  LEGENDS,  and  TRADITIONS  of  the  SOUTH  of  IRELAND.— 
Part  second. 

“We  know  not  whether  to  admire  most  the  curious  research,  the  imagination,  or  the  exquisite  and 
characteristic  humour  of  the  tales.”— Lit.  Gaz. 

III. 

PRIVATE  MEMOIRS  of  the  COURT  of  NAPOLEON.  By  L.  F.  J.  DE 
BAUSSET,  former  Perfect  of  the  Imperial  Palace.  Translated  from  the 
French. 

“ The  anecdotes  of  the  imperial  court  are  very  gannilous  and  amusing.”— New  Monthly  Magazine. 

“ There  never  was  a more  vigilant  Paul  Pry  near  a throne.” — Am.  Quarterly  Revieiv. 

IV. 

ATLANTIC  SOUVENIR  for  1829. 

The  publishers  are  now  making  anan^ements  for  the  publication  of  this,  the  fourth  volume,  of  the 
above  popular  work.  In  order  to  render  rt  worthy  of  the  high  degree  of  favour  to  which  it  has  attained^ 
1 hey  wtll  spare  no  experrse  in  the  embellishments,  all  of  which  will  be  executed  by  the  first  artists. 

V. 

ELEMENTS  of  PHYSICS,  or  NATURAL  PHILOSOPHY,  GENERAL  and 
MEDICAL,  explained  independently  of  Technical  Mathematics.  By  N.  AR- 
NOTT,  M.  D. 

“ Of  this  valuable,  or  Ave  might  say,  invaluable  work,  a second  edition  has  been  speedily  demanded 
hy  the  public  voice.” — Lit.  Gaz. 

VI. 

POEMS  OF  REGINALD  HEBER,  D.  D.  Late  Bishop  of  Calcutta,  now 
first  collected:  with  a Biographical  Memoir. 

VII. 

THE  AMERICAN  PRACTICE  OF  MEDICINE.  By  S.  JACKSON.  M.  D. 

VIII. 

BROUSSAIS  ON  INFLAMMATION.  Translated  by  J.  G.NANCREDE,  M.  D. 

IX. 

PHILADELPHIA  in  1828;  or,  a Brief  Account  of  the  various  Institutions 
and  Public  Objects  in  this  Metropolis;  being  a Complete  Guide  for  Strangers, 
and  an  useful  Compendium  for  the  Inhabitants,  to  which  is  prefixed  an  Histo- 
rical and  Statistical  account  of  the  City.  With  a Plan  of  the  City  and  other 
Engi’avings. 

X. 

A SYSTEM  OF^PERATIVE  SURGERY.  By  WILLIAM  GIBSON,  M.  D. 

XI. 

A MANUAL  OF  HUMAN  PHYSIOLOGY,  &c.  By  PH.  HUTIN,  M.  D. 
Translated  from  the  French  by  JOSEPH  TOGNO. 

XII. 

NARRATIVE  OF  A JOURNEY  THROUGH  THE  UPPER  PROVINCES 
OF  INDIA,  FROM  CALCUTTA  TO  BOMBAY.  By  the  Late  REGINALD 
HEBER,  D.  D.  Lord  Bishop  of  Calcutta. 

“ It  forms  a monument  of  talent,  sufficient,  singly  and  alone,  to  establish  its  author  in  a very  high 
rank  of  English  Literature.  It  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  books  in  the  language,  and  will,  we  can- 
not doubt,  command  popularity  as  extensive  and  as  lasting  as  qnV  book  of  travels  that  has  been  print- 
ed in  our  time.  Certainly,  no  work  of  its  class  that  has  appeared  since  Hr.  Clarke’s  can  be  compared 
to  it  for  variety  of  interesting  matter,  still  less  for  elegance  of  execution.  The  style  throughout  easy, 
graceful,  and  nervous,  carries  v.  ith  it  a cliarm  of  freshness  and  originality  not  suiqiassed  in  any  per 

sonal  memoir  with  w^ich  we  are  acquainted.”— Revietv,  No..  73,  . 


I 


NARRATIVE 


OP  A 

JOURNEY  THROUGH  THE 

UPPER  PROVINCES  OF  INDIA, 

FROM 

CALCUTTA  TO  BOMBAY,  1824—1825, 

(WITH  NOTES  UPON  CEYLON,) 

AN  ACCOUNT  OF  A JOURNEY  TO 

MADRAS  AND  THE  SOUTHERN  PROVINCES,  1826 

AND 

LETTERS  WRITTEN  IN  INDIA. 

BY  THE  LATE 

RIGHT  REV.  REGINALD  HEBER,  D.D. 

LORD  BISHOP  OF  CALCUTTA. 

IN  TWO  VOLUMES.—VOL.  I. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

CAREY,  LEA,  AND  CAREY— CHESNUT  STREET. 

SOLD  IN  NEW  YORK  BY  O.  AND  C.  CARVILL IN  BOSTON  BY  MUNROE 

^ AND  FRANCIS. 

1828.  : 


ADAM  WALDIE  & CO.  PRINTERS 


TO  THE 


RIGHT  HONOURABLE 

CHARLES  WATKIN  WILLIAMS  WYNN,  M.  P. 

PRESIDENT  OF  THE  BOARD  OF  COMMISSIONERS  FOR 
THE  AFFAIRS  OF  INDIA. 


My  dear  Sir, 

In  dedicating  this  Journal  to  you,  I have  the 
melancholy  satisfaction  of  fulfilling  the  intention  of  its 
Author.  Had  he  lived  to  revise  and  complete  the 
Work  himself,  he  would  more  ably  have  expressed  to 
you  his  sense  of  the  obligations  which  he  felt  for  his 
nomination  to  the  Bishopric  of  Calcutta,  for  the  inva- 
riable kindness  he  received  at  your  hands  during  his 
residence  in  India,  and  for  the  zeal  with  which  you 
met  and  forwarded  his  views  for  the  welfare  of  its 
inhabitants. 

The  friendship  that  you  have  ever  entertained  for  my 
husband  was  met  on  his  part  by  feelings  of  no  common 
nature ; and  the  affection  which  you  bear  his  memory, 
makes  me  sensible  that  you  will  highly  appreciate  this 
testimony  of  his  gratitude  and  regard. 

I have  the  honour  to  be,  my  dear  Sir, 

Your  much  obliged  and  obedient, 

AMELIA  HEBER. 

December  31,  1827. 


PREFACE. 


The  painful  task  of  editing  the  works  of  the  late 
Bishop  of  Calcutta  having  devolved  upon  his  widow, 
she  is  anxious  to  state,  that  her  principal  object  in 
publishing  the  following  Journal  is,  that  its  readers 
may  be  made  acquainted  with  the  nature  and  extent 
of  the  duties  performed  by  the  Bishop  during  the  short 
time  he  presided  over  the  Indian  Church,  as  well  as 
with  the  difficulties  he  encountered  in  the  visitation  of 
his  extensive  diocese. 

Although  written  in  the  shape  of  a diary,  the  greater 
part  of  the  work  formed  his  correspondence  with  the 
Editor,  a fact  which  she  hopes  will  be  borne  in  mind, 
should  some  consider  that  he  has  dwelt  less  upon  the 
professional  objects  of  his  journey  than  might  have  been 
anticipated.  The  Letters  to  his  friends  in  England,  fr  om 
which  extracts  are  given,  together  with  the  sacrifice  of 
his  dearest  affections  which  he  was  so  frequently  called 
upon  to  make,  sufficiently  prove  that  he  never  lost 
sight  of  his  high  calling,  nor  suffered  any  circumstance 
to  interfere  with  the  object  for  which  he  left  his  native 
land. 

In  the  unreserved  confidence  of  such  communica- 
tions, it  will  be  supposed  that  there  was  much  of  a 
nature  uninteresting  to  the  public  eye,  and  that  omis- 
sions were  consequently  necessary.  Had  it  pleased 
God  to  spare  the  Bishop’s  life,  it  was  his  intention,  after 
revisiting  the  same  countries,  to  publish,  corrected  by 


VI 


PREFACE. 


further  experience,  an  account  of  his  travels  from  the 
notes,  in  which  light  only  he  considered  the  work  now 
offered  to  the  world.  If  the  Editor  has  retained  too 
many  proofs  of  her  husband’s  attachment  to  her  and 
love  for  his  children,  or  too  many  traits  of  that  kindness 
of  heart  for  which  he  was  so  eminent,  some  allowance 
should  be  made  for  the  feelings  of  one  whose  pride  it 
now  is,  as  it  was  her  happiness,  to  have  possessed  the 
undivided  aflFections  of  that  heart  whose  qualities  she 
so  well  knew  and  so  fondly  valued. 

During  a residence  of  five  weeks  in  Ceylon,  the 
Bishop  had  not  leisure  to  continue  the  account  of 
his  first  Visitation,  which  concluded  in  that  beautiful 
country ; but  as  it  was  a part  of  his  diocese  which,  in 
many  points  of  view,  particularly  interested  him,  he 
intended  writing  at  some  future  period  his  recollections 
of  the  island,  aided  by  the  Editor’s  journal,  which  for 
that  ptirpose  was  written  more  in  detail.  She  has 
endeavoured  to  supply,  in  some  degree,  the  deficiency, 
by  inserting  a few  pages  in  the  second  volume. 

Having  thus  explained  the  circumstances  under 
which  the  work  was  written,  and  her  motives  for  its 
publication,  the  Editor  begs  to  be  allowed  to  express 
her  gratitude  for  the  great  and  invariable  kindness 
received  by  her  husband  and  herself  during  their  resi- 
dence in  India.  F or  the  active  furtherance  of  his  views 
in  the  promotion  of  Christianity,  for  the  deference  paid 
to  his  wishes,  for  the  hospitality,  friendship,  and  respect 
which  he  met  with  from  his  Clergy,  and  from  all  the 
military  and  civil  servants  of  the  Company,  in  whatever 
part  of  the  country  his  Visitations  led  him,  as  well  as 
from  the  King’s  Government  in  Ceylon,  she  can  now 
but  offer  her  own  heartfelt  thanks.  That  the  Bishop 
highly  appreciated  the  reception  which  he  experienced, 
may  be  generally  inferred  from  his  journal;  but  the 
Editor  is  convinced  that  the  following  extract  from  a 
private  letter  will  be  peculiarly  gratifying  to  the  mem- 
bers of  Government  in  Calcutta,  to  whom,  especially 
to  Mr.  Lushington,  the  Secretary  for  the  Ecclesiastical 


PREFACE. 


Vll 


department,  he  always  considered  himself  as  under 
much  obligation : ‘‘  The  members  of  Government  have 
done  every  thing  for  me  which  I myself  wished  for,  and 
which  was  in  their  power  to  do ; and  Mr.  Lushington 
has  just  now  been  exerting  himself  in  Council  to  carry 
a point  for  me  of  great  consequence.”  ‘‘  Nothing  can 
be  fuller  or  more  considerate  than  the  Letters  which 
have  been  sent  to  the  different  commissariat  and  mili- 
tary officers  to  attend  to  all  my  wants  in  their  respective 
departments.” 

The  liberality  of  the  honourable  the  Court  of  Direct- 
ors, in  providing  the  Bishop  with  a house,  and  making 
him  an  additional  allowance  for  the  expenses  of  his 
Visitation,  was  duly  estimated  by  himself,  and  is  now 
acknowledged  with  thankfulness  by  his  widow. 

The  Editor  trusts  she  may  be  forgiven  for  intruding 
any  mention  of  her  own  feelings ; but  she  would  find 
it  difficult  at  this  moment  to  refrain  from  expressing 
her  deep  and  grateful  sense  of  the  respect  and  affection 
shown  to  her  husband’s  memory  by  all  ranks,  all  pro- 
fessions, and  all  classes  of  British  in  India ; and  were  it 
possible  that  these  sentiments  could  receive  a stronger 
colouring,  it  would  be  from  the  knowledge  that  the 
natives  of  that  country  participated  largely  in  such 
feelings ; that  sincerely  as  he  is  regretted  by  his  own  coun- 
trymen, he  is  no  less  so  by  those  for  whose  eternal  wel- 
fare he  sacrificed  his  life.  F rom  these  sources  the  bitter 
agonies  of  his  widow’s  grief  received  all  the  alleviation 
of  which  such  sorrow  is  susceptible:  and  though  time 
may  soften  the  poignancy  of  her  loss,  her  gratitude  can 
never  be  effaced ; and  fervent  and  lasting  will  be  her 
wishes  for  the  welfare  of  those  whom  she  has  left 
behind,  and  to  whose  personal  kindness  she  was  so 
deeply  indebted  in  the  hour  of  her  affliction. 

To  the  right  honourable  Charles  Watkin  Williams 
Wynn,  the  right  honourable  Robert  John  Wilmot  Hor- 
ton, and  those  other  friends  who  have  contributed  so 
much  to  the  interest  of  the  work  by  allowing  the  Editor 


PREFACE. 


viii 

to  publish  the  Bishop’s  private  Letters  addressed  to 
them,  she  returns  her  grateful  thanks. 

For  the  invaluable  and  kind  assistance  afforded  her 
by  Sir  Robert  Harry  Inglis  in  the  publication  of  the 
work,  her  warmest  acknowledgments  are  due,  and  she 
feels  sincere  pleasure  in  thus  publicly  recording  her 
sense  of  the  obligation  she  is  under  to  one  of  her 
husband’s  truest  friends. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 


VOLUME  I. 


Voyage  to  India.  - - - ' - - - p.  13 

CHAPTER  I. 

Saugor — Tigers — Country  Boats — Arab  Ships — Village — Maldivian  Ves- 
sels— Garden  Reach — Approach  to  Calcutta — Arrival — Old  Government 
House — Native  Household  -----  41 

CHAPTER  II. 

CALCUTTA. 

Description  of  Calcutta — Cathedral — Environs — Quay — Child-murder — 
Barrackpoor — Menagerie — Female  Orphan  Asylum — Consecration  of 
Churches — Nach — Free  School — Botanical  Garden — Bishop’s  College — 
Native  Female  Schools — Distress  among  Europeans  - - 55 

CHAPTER  III. 

CALCUTTA. 

Pagodas — Barrackpoor  — Serampoor — Decoits  — Chandernagore  — Christ- 
mas Boxes — Idols — Tittyghur — Suttee — Bore  in  the  River — Salt-petre — 
Confirmation; — Governor-general’s  Native  Levee  - - 73 

CHAPTER  IV. 

CALCUTTA. 

Rope  Bridges — Wedding  Procession — Hindoo  Festival — Cholera  Morbus — 
'Fruits — Ordination  of  Christian  David  - - , 86 

^ CHAPTER  V. 

CALCUTTA  TO  SIBNIBASHI. 

Departure — Pinnace — Bengalee  Boat — Hindoo  Fanatics — North-Wester — • 
Chinsura — Ranaghat — Sibnibashi — Ruins — Raja  Omichund — Durbar — 
Decoits  - - - - - - . 100 

CHAPTER  VI. 

SIBNIBASHI  TO  DACCA. 

Gipsies — Winged  Bugs — Matabunga — Fishing — Difficult  passage  in  the 
River — Brahminy  Bulls — Titybania — Ornamented  Boats — Strong  Cur- 
rent— Otters — Avalanches — Pawn — Khyzr — Elephants  bathing  - 112 

VoL.  ]. — 2 


10  cojrrENTs. 

CHAPTER  VIL 

DACCA. 

Ruins — Visit  from  the  Nawab — Visit  returned — Death  of  Mr.  Stowe — 
Consecration  of  Church  and  Burial-ground — Confirmation — Armenian 
Archbishop— Farewell  Visit  to  Nawab — Meer  Israf  Ali  - 142 

CHAPTER  VIIL 

DACCA  TO  FURREEDrOOR. 

Inundation — -Gun-boat  attacked — Mussulman  Fakir — Furreedpoor — Sys- 
tem of  Robbery — Domestic  Habits  of  Hindoos— Extract  from  Calendar  156 

CHAPTER  IX. 

FURREEDPOOR  TO  BOGLIPOOR. 

Blind  Beggar — Crocodile — Ape — Silk  Manufactory — Basket  for  catching 
Fish — Bogwangola — Strength  of  Current — Begging  Dervises — Ant-hills 
— Rajmahal  Hills — Gour — Rajmahal — Sultan  Sujah’s  Palace — Pu- 
harree— Caves — Gossain-r-Boglipoor— r-Schools — Religion  of  Puharrees  164 

CHAPTER  X. 

BOGLIPOOR  TO  MONGHYR. 

Width  of  the  Ganges — (Ilharity  of  Dandees — Seeta  Coom — Monghyr— 
Fort— Zemindars— Pensioners — Baptist  Mission — Desertion  of  Dandees 
—Cheapness  of  Fire-arms  --  - - - - 199' 

CHAPTER  XL 

MONGHYR  TO  BUXAR. 

Cattle  swimming  across  the  River — Brahmin  Labourers — Patna — Banki- 
poor — Granary— Hackeries — Dinapoor — Cantonment — Digah  F arm— 
Chupra — -Floating  Shops — Fort — Native  Christians — Schools — Curreem 
Musseeh— Varieties  of  Complexion  ...  - 2G& 

CHAPTER  XII. 

BUXAR  TO  BENARES. 

Caramnasa — Ghazeepoor — Lord  Cornwallis’s  Monument — Palace — Salu- 
brity— Rose-fields — Suttees — Lepers — Dak  Journey — Seidpoor — Benares 
—Case  of  Native  Christians — Confirmation — Mission  School — Descrip-  ’ 
tion  of  Benares — Native  Houses — Pagodas — Vishvayesa — Observatory — 

Jain  Temple — Vidalaya — Hindoo  Astronomy — Street-preaching — Amrut 
Row — Visit  from  the  Raja.  . - - . - 228 

CHAPTER  XIIL 

BENARES  TO  ALLAHABAD. 

Chunar — Intense  heat— Triml)uk-jee-— Hindoo  Temple— Confirmation — 
Invalids-— Departure  from  Chunar — Large  Fish — Retrospect  of  Benares 
■ — Quarrels  between  Hindoos  and  Mussulmans — Sitting  Dhurna^ — 


CONTENTS, 


II 


Natives’  Opinions  of  English  Governors— Allahabad — Fort — Jumna  Mus“ 
jeed — Confirmation— Preparations  for  Marching — Festival  of  Rama  and 
Seeta  - . 262 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

ALLAHABAD  TO  CAWNPOOB, 

Description  of  Caravan — Armed  Peasantry — Camaulpoor — Fyzee  Musseeh 
— Visits  from  Zemindar  and  Imam — Mussulman  Soldier  turned  Saint — 
Ryuts  oppressed  by  Soldiery — Futtehpoor — Serai — Beggars  living  in 
Tombs — Stormy  march  to  Kuleanpoor — Dak-journey  to  Cawnpoor — 
Hospital  and  School— Description  of  Town  and  Climate  - 289 

' CHAPTER  XV. 

CAWNPOOR  TO  LUCKNOW. 

Entrance  into  King  of  Oude's  Territories — Increase  of  Guards — King’s 
Suwarrs — Aumeen — Entrance  into  Lucknow — Court  Circular — Narrow 
Streets — Armed  Inhabitants — Prime  Minister — Rhinoceroses-r-Dil-Kou- 
shar — Constantia — Deceased  King’s  Wives — Breakfast  at  the  Palace- 
Distribution  of  Money  at  the  Gates — King  breakfasts  at  the  Residency 
= — Private  details  of  the  Government — Christians  at  Lucknow  - 311 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

/ 

LUCKNOW  TO  BAREILLY. 

Departure  from  Lucknow — Gratitude  of  Sepoys — Illness — Mussulman 
Suwarr — Sandee — Dispute  between  two  Villages — Shahjehanpoor — 
Rebel  Chief  in  the  Forest — Anecdote  of  Rohiila  Chief — Fertility  of 
Rohilcund — Futtehgunge — Hafez  Rehmut — Visit  from  Tusseldar — Fur- 
reed  poor — Bareilly — Professional  Duties — Character  of  Rohillas — Pre- 
parations for  the  Mountains  - - - - 34O 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

BAREILLY  TO  ALMORAH. 

First  distant  View  of  the  Flimalaya  Mountains — Sheesgher — Visit  from 
Raja  and  Sons — Account  of  Terai — “ Essence  of  Owl” — Wretchedness 
of  Inhabitants — Kulleanpoor — Tiger  Hunt — ^Ruderpoor — Case  of  Mala- 
ria Fever — Burning  the  Jungle — Tandah — Bamoury — Beemthal — Wa- 
ter-mill— Khasyah  Nation — Ramghur; — Sikh — Mount  Meru — Pilgrim  to 
Bhadrinath  - - - - - - - 368 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

ALMORAH  TO  MEERUT. 

Trees  used  as  Gallows — Bhooteahs — Kemaoon  subject  to  Earthquakes — - 
Havelbagh — Vegetation  in  Kemaoon — Animals  and  Birds — Wild  Dogs 
— Visits  from  Vakeel  and  Pundit — Cold  at  Pruny — Poverty  of  Chur- 
wali — Koosilla  River — Description  of  Okul  Dunga — Pillibheet  Rice — 
Emetic  Property  of  Wild  Tea — Ghorkha  Boy — Manner  of  catching  Fish 
— Cashipoor — Women  Spinning — White  Buffalo — Sugar  mill — Imperial 
Tree — Moradabad — Making  Ice — Yogis  and  Tigers — Canes  set  on  fire 
by  Friction — Party  of  supposed  Bheels — Thugs  - - . 401 


12 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

MEERUT  TO  DELHI. 

Situation  of  Meerut — Church — Consecration — Valley  of  the  Dhoon — :Con- 
* dor — Anecdote  of  Begum  Sumroo — School — Hospital— Confirmation — 
Surgeon  appointed — Skinner’s  Horse — Heavy  rain — Delhi — ‘Tomb  of 
Hamaioon — Aqueduct — Firoze’s  Walking-stick — Immense  extent  of 
Ruins — Shawl  Manufactory — Jumna  Musjeed — Presentation  to  the  Em- 
peror— Palace — Koottab-sahib — Present  fl’om  the  Begum — Late  and 
present  Emperors  of  Delhi  - 438 

CHAPTER  XX. 

, DELHI  TO  AGRA. 

Ruins  of  Togligabad — Visit  to  the  Raja  of  Bullumghur — Dancing  Girls — 
Nawab  of  Sikre — Hindoo  Pilgrimage  to  Bindrabund — Muttra — Sacred 
Monkeys — Death  of  one  revenged — Lepers — Party  of  Fakirs — Escape  of 
Trimbuk-jee — Tomb  of  Acbar — Public  Buildings — Dewanny  Aum — 
Tage  Mahal — Abdul  Musseeh — French  in  Central  India.  - 462 

CHAPTER  XXL 

AGRA  TO  JYEPOOR. 

Preparations  for  the  journey  through  the  Independent  States  of  Western 
India — Futtehpoor — City  of  Acbar — Great  Mosque — Palace — Bhurtpoor 
— Mode  of  Sinking  Wells — Letter  from  the  Raja  of  Bhurtpoor — Good 
State  of  his  Country — Sir  David  Ochterlony — Sir  John  Malcolm 
■ — Wyre — Mowah — Frontier  of  Jyepoor — Idol  carried  to  Bindrabund 
— Deosa — Hindoo  Festival — Arrival  at  Jyepoor  - . - 478 


JOURNAL 


OF  A 

VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


On  Monday,  June  16th,  1823,  we  went  down  by  the  Ramsgate 
steamboat,  to  join  the  Thomas  Grenville  at  the  Lower  Hope, 
accompanied  by  a party  of  kind  relations  and  friends  who  were 
.willing  to  let  us  see  as  much  of  them  as  we  could  before  our 
necessary  separation.  Captain  Manning  had  the  yards  of  the 
ship  manned,  and  fired  a salute  in  compliment  to  us.  The  Gren- 
ville weighed  anchor  soon  after  we  were  on  board,  but  met  with 
an  adverse  wind,  and  advanced  a very  little  way  down  the  river. 

On  the  17th  we  had  again  baffling  winds,  and  could  not  get 
round  the  North  Foreland.  About  two  o’clock,  on  the  morning 
of  the  18th,  a fine  north  breeze  sprung  up,  which  carried  us  very 
soon  into  the  Downs.  We  lay  off  Deal  about  six  hours,  waiting 
for  passengers  and  a fresh  supply  of  water,  much  to  the  vexation 
of  the  old  pilot,  who  bitterly  regretted  that  so  fine  a breeze  was 
allowed  to  remain  useless.  It  continued,  however,  and  we  set 
off  auspiciously  at  six  the  same  evening,  sailing  with  the  wind  so 
well  on  our  quarter,  and  through  so  smooth  a sea,  that  though  the 
breeze  grew  strong  in  the  night,  the  motion  of  the  ship  was  hardly 
perceptible. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  I had  proposed  to  read  evening  prayers 
regularly,  which  was  received  with  readiness  on  the  part  of  Cap- 
tain Manning.  Accordingly,  after  tea,  I repeated,  with  the  party 
assembled  in  the  cuddy,  the  general  confession.  Lord’s  prayer, 
petition  for  all  conditions  of  men,  general  thanksgiving,  &:c. 

On  the  20th,  the  ship’s  company  were  busied,  during  the  early 
part  of  the  day,  in  lowering  the  quarter-deck  guns  into  the  hold, 
and  getting  up  the  baggage  for  the  passengers;  an  operation  which. 


14 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


. we  are  told,  is  to  take  place  once  a fortnight.  The  effect  was 
singular;  the  whole  deck  being  strewed,  during  the  greater  part  of 
the  morning,  with  trunks  and  packages  either  shut  or  open,  looked 
as  if  we  had  been  boarded  and  rifled  by  pirates.  To-day  1 finished 

Quentin  Durward,”  which  I had  kept  as  a resource  of  amuse- 
ment for  the  voyage.  I began  it  yesterday,  and  could  not  stop 
till  I had  quite  eaten  up  my  cake.  It  will,  however,  bear  reading 
over  more  than  once.  I am,  certainly,  much  pleased  with  it.  It 
has  more  talent  and  interest  as  a story  than  most  which  have  lately 
proceeded  from  the  same  quarter.  Lewis  the  Xlth  is  powerfully 
drawn,  though,  notwithstanding  the  superiority  of  his  talents,  he 
does  not,  as  a rich  and  vivid  portrait,  so  completely  please  and 
amuse~me  as  James  I.  in  “ Nigel.”  Yet  between  the  two  mo- 
narchs,  there  are  many  points  of  resemblance.  Ludovic  Leslie 
is  but  a very  ordinary  daubing  of  the  Scots  mercenary  soldier,  and 
only  serves  to  remind  us,  unpleasantly,  of  Dugald  Dalgetty,  and 
most  absurdly,  and  to  the  ruin  of  the  conclusion  of  the  story,  to 
blunder  at  its  end  into  the  triumph  which  the  wishes  of  the  read- 
ers had  reserved  for  his  nephev\\  Quentin  himself  is  precisely. 
“ the  Page”  of  “ the  Abbot:”  a raw  lively  lad,  thrown  by  accident 
into  situations  of  great  interest  and  intricacy,  and,  in  no  very 
probable  manner,  and  by  no  great  merit  of  his  own,  rising  from 
poverty  and  obscurity  to  fame  and  great  wealth,  and  the  enjoy- 
ment of  the  object  of  his  affections.  The  other  characters,  male 
and  female,  are  mere  sketches,  but  sketches  of  great  talent  and 
vivacity.  1 like  them  all,  from  the  grave,  courtly,  sententious, 
and  tipsy  old  soldier  Lord  Crawford,  down  to  the  good-natured, 
stupid  burghers  of  Liege,  and  the  weeping  and  the  laughing  exe- 
xutioner.  1 would  except,  however,  Hayraddin  the  Bohemian, 
whose  sketch  I think  a complete  failure ; however  ambitiously 
intended,  (and  he  seems  to  have  been  a favourite  with  the  author,) 
he  is  a very  tame  compound  of  Meg  Merrilies,  of  Ronald  Mac 
Eagh  in  “ the  Legend  of  Montrose,”  of  Pacolet  in  “ the  Bucca- 
neer,” and  of  the  dumb  lady  in  the  service  of  the  Countess  of 
Derby,  as  if  a man,  in  his  ambition  after  a new  beverage,  should 
pour  wine,  whiskey,  beer,  and  raspberry-vinegar  into  the  same 
cup.  And  after  all,  Hayraddin,  with  all  his  talk  about  planets, 
palmistry,  and  atheism,  does  nothing  but  what  a mere  ordinary 
spy  would  have  done  as  well,  and  what,  if  he  had  been  employed 
to  do,  he  never  would  have  attempted  under  the  disadvantage  of 
any  peculiarities  of  dress  and  manner.  But  though  it  is  very  easy 
to  find  fault  with  Quentin  Durward,  it  is  decidedly  better  than 
many  of  Scott’s  later  works,  nor  is  there  any  man  now  living  but 
Walter  Scott  who  could  have  written  it.  So  ends  the  last  critique 
Jhat  I shall,  in  all  probability,  compose  for  a long  time  to  come! 

On  the  21st  we  had  the  same  gentle  breeze,  which,  though  now 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA, 


15 

shifted  to  nearly  due  north,  answered  our  purpose  extremely  well. 
Our  latitude  this  day  at  noon  was  48°  9'  long.  W.  7°  21'.  The 
weather  fine,  though  cruelly  cold  for  midsummer.  I was  this 
morning  engaged  by  Scoresby’s  voyage  to  old  Greenland,  in  1822, 
but  I find  two  cireumstances  for  which,  at  sea,  1 was  by  no  means 
prepared: — that,  namely,  we  have  no  great  time  for  study ^ and 
that  for  me,  at  least,  there  is  so  much  which  interests  and  occu- 
pies me,  that  1 have  no  apprehensions  of  time  hanging  heavy  on 
my  hands. 

June  22. — This  day,  being  Sunday,  the  decks  were  all  beauti- 
fully clean,  having  been  well  scrubbed  on  Saturday  night.  The 
awning  was  spread  over  the  quarter-deck,  and  the  capstan  and 
sides  of  the  vessel  concealed  and  ornamented  with  flags  of  difler- 
ent  nations.  Chairs  were  set  for  the  oflicers  and  passengers  on 
the  poop,  and  round  the  afterpart  of  the  deck,  and  spars  laid 
across  the  remainder  as  seats  for  the  sailors,  who  attended  church 
in  clean  shirts  and  trowsers,  and  well  washed  and  shaved.  In 
the  space  between  the  capstan  and  half-deck  was  a small  table 
set  for  me  and  the  purser,  who  acted  as  clerk,  and  1 read  prayers, 
and  preached  one  of  my  Hodnet  Sermons,  slightly  altered,  to  a 
very  attentive  and  orderly  congregation,  of  altogether,  I should 
think,  one  hundred  and  forty  persons.  The  awning  made  really 
a handsome  church,  and  the  sight  was  a very  pleasing  one. 

June  24. — This  morning  we  were  roused,  after  a night  of  much 
.Vexatious  rolling,  by  the  intelligence  that  a sail  was  in  sight  by 
which  we  might  send  letters  to  England.  I had  some  ready  and 
finished  others.  She  was  pretty  close  with  us  at  about  eight ; a 
small  dark-sided  brig,  of  very  beautiful  build,  and  with  a British 
pendant,  which  made  her  pass  for  a man  of  war,  though,  on  a 
nearer  approach,  the  apparent  slovenliness  of  her  equipment,  and 
a crowd  of  foreign  and  dirty-looking  people  on  board,  gave  rise 
to  various  conjectures.  Captain  Manning  hoisted  out  one  of  his 
cutters  with  ten  oars,  besides  the  quarter-master  and  the  mid- 
shipman who  commanded,  a handsome  boat,  and  making,  from 
the  appearance  of  the  men,  and  their  discipline,  a show  little  in- 
ferior to  that  of  a man  of  war.  He  sent  our  letters,  together 
with  tw^o  newspapers  and  two  bottles  of  milk,  a present  which  he 
said  would  fairly  pay  for  the  carriage  of  our  despatches  to  Eng- 
land. She  turned  out  to  be  a Falmouth  packet,  nine  days  out  of 
Lisbon,  crowded  with  diflerent  adventurers  who  had  volunteered 
their  services  to  the  Spaniards  and  Portuguese,  and  were  now 
returning  dispirited  and  disappointed. 

About  noon  several  porpoises  were  seen,  and  a remarkable  fish 
passed  the  ship,  which  some  of  the  sailors  called  a devil-fish, 
others,  I believe  more  correctly,  a sun-fish.  It  was  a very  large 
and  nearly  circular  flat  fish,  with,  apparently,  some  rather  vivid 


16  - JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 

colours  about  it,  like  those  tints  which  are  found  in  the  jelly-fish. 
It  impelled  itself  forward  by  lashing  the  water  with  its  tail,  and 
swam  exactly  on  a level  with  the  surface.  I at  first  thought  that 
it  was  dead,  but  was  soon  satisfied  to  the  contrary.  The  sailors 
seemed  to  regard  it  as  a curiosity.  The  afternoon  was  cloudy, 
cold,  and  rainy,  a bad  summer’s  day  in  England,  and  what  I should 
have  still  less  expected  in  the  parallel  of  Spain. 

June  25. — We  had  this  day  a considerable  swell  with  a foul 
wind,  though  not  much  of  it.  A grampus  came  close  to  the  ship, 
and  played  round  us  for  some  time.  In  his  apparent  size  he  dis- 
appointed me,  though  every  body  said  that  if  he  had  been  on  deck 
he  would  have  measured  fourteen  or  fifteen  feet.  He  presented, 
as  1 should  conceive,  a complete  miniature  of  a whale,  blowing 
out  water  in  the  same  manner.  I find,  indeed,  that  Captain 
Manning,  and  most  persons  on  board,  suppose  that  the  grampus 
is  only  a young  whale ; another,  or  the  same  grampus,  in  the 
course  of  the  day,  was  seen  chased  by  a group  of  porpoises,  and 
a real  (or  full  grown)  whale  was  also  seen,  but  I was  not  then  on 
deck.  The  wind  quite  sunk  again  before  evening  ; a number  of 
little  birds,  like  swallows,  continued  flying  on  the  surface  of  the 
water  and  piping.  The  seamen  called  them  “ mother  Carey’s 
chickens,”  and  said  that  a storm  might  be  expected.  Accordingly, 
on  the  wind  rising  a little  after  sun-set,  all  hands  were  called  to 
take  in  the  royal  or  upper  top-gallant  sails,  and  the  company  were 
told  off  with  a reference  to  the  duties  expected  from  them  with 
more  than  usual  hurry.  It  blew  hard  about  ten  o’clock,  and  from 
two  to  three  the  storm  was  regarded  as  serious. 

On  the  morning  of  the  26th  nothing  remained  but  a violent 
rolling  and  pitching  sea. 

June  30. — Two  brigs  were  seen  in  the  offing  in  the  same  course 
with  ourselves,  one  of  which  gained  on  us  fast,  and  overtook  us 
about  3 p.  m.  She  was  the  Christiana  of  Liverpool,  in  ballast, 
bound  for  Bahia,  and  to  touch  at  Madeira  by  the  way.  An  op- 
portunity thus  offered  of  sending  our  letters  to  the  latter  place, 
and  thence  to  England. 

The  poop  of  the  ship  would  be  no  bad  place  for  air,  study,  or 
recreation,  (it  is  indeed  used  as  such  by  most  of  our  young  writers 
and  cadets,)  had  it  not  the  terrible  drawback  of  a vile  stench 
from  the  wretched  imprisoned  fowls,  whose  hen-coops  cover  it. 
These  miserable  birds  suffer  dreadfully  for  the  gratification  of  our 
luxury.  Though  less  crowded  on  board  the  Grenville  than  in 
most  vessels  of  the  kind,  they  are  even  here  packed  like  bottles 
in  a rack,  with  hardly  room  to  stir. 

July  2. — During  the  night  we  made  a somewhat  better  progress 
than  we  had  done  for  a good  while.  The  breeze  continued  to 
freshen  from  the  M.E.  and  the  day  was  pleasant.  A vessel  bound 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


17 


for  London,  three  days  from  Funchal,  passed  us  at  dinner-time. 
We  regretted  bitterly  that  we  had  sent  our  packets  by  the  Chris- 
tiana, and  that  we  had  (now  that  so  much  better  an  opportunity 
occurred)  nothing  ready  to  despatch  ; but  it  was  not  to  be  helped. 
Captain  Manning  hailed  the  vessel,  and  asked  her  Master  to  re- 
port at  Lloyd’s  that  he  had  spoken  the  Thomas  Grenville  in  such 
a latitude,  “ all  well,”  so  that  this,  at  least,  our  friends  will  have 
the  satisfaction  of  seeing  in  the  newspapers  ere  many  days  are 
over.  My  wife’s  eyes  swam  with  tears  as  this  vessel  passed  us, 
and  there  were  one  or  two  of  the  young  men  who  looked  wish- 
fully after  her.  For  my  own  part,  I am  but  too  well  convinced 
that  all  my  firmness  would  go  if  1 allowed  myself  to  look  back 
even  for  a moment.  Yet,  as  I did  not  leave  home  and  its  bless- 
ings without  counting  the  cost,  1 do  not,  and  I trust  in  God  that 
I shall  not,  regret  the  choice  that  I have  made.  But  knowing 
how  much  others  have  given  up  for  my  sake,  should  make  me 
both  more  studious  to  make  the  loss  less  to  them,  and  also,  and 
above  all,  so  to  discharge  my  duty,  as  that  they  may  never  think 
that  these  sacrifices  have  been  made  in  vain. 

July  3. — We  made  an  excellent  progress  during  the  night.  At 
about  five  in  the  evening  we  saw  Madeira  on  our  larboard  bow. 
The  horizon  was  unfortunately  hazy,  and  the  night  shut  in  with 
clouds,  otherwise  we  should,  about  an  hour  after,  have  had  a fine 
view  of  the  land  at  about  twenty  miles  distance  on  the  beam.  As 
it  was,  we  could  barely  distinguish  its  outline  through  the  mist; 
but  the  very  sight  of  land,  and  the  sense  of  progress  which  it  com- 
municated, were  very  exhilarating,  and  kept  us  all  on  deck  till  it 
was  quite  dark.  During  this  evening  the  gale  and  the  sea  had 
continued  to  increase  ; some  of  the  cabins  on  the  gun-deck  had 
shipped  water;  Mr.  Burnet  predicted  uncomfortable  weather; 
and  the  Captain,  though  he  did  not  shorten  sail,  gave  orders  to 
have  all  the  lower  ports  secured.  We  went  to  bed,  therefore, 
not  unprepared  for  a little  tossing,  though  certainly  not  for  all 
that  followed.  The  wind  was  high  during  the  night,  and  the 
swell  more  than  commensurate  ; and  our  furniture,  though  we  had 
secured  it  with  unusual  care,  seemed  alive.  The  moon,  during 
the  latter  part  of  the  night,  was  clear,  and  the  view  of  the  follow- 
ing surge  from  the  cabin  windows,  was  very  majestic;  but  to  enjoy 
it,  it  was  necessary  to  hold  hard  with  both  hands. 

July  4. — The  gale  and  tossing  continued  all  the  forenoon  ; com- 
plaints of  sleeplessness,  broken  heads  and  shins,  were  universal ; 
and  we  were  only  comforted  by  the  assurance  that  we  had  seen, 
probably,  the  worst  of  the  ship’s  rolling,  and  that,  even  off  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  nothing  more  than  this  was  reasonably  to 
be  apprehended.  Our  progress  too  was  very  cheering.  Our  run 

VoL.  I. — 3 


18 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


daring  the  last  twenty-four  hours  was  computed  at  two  hundred 
miles,  and  our  latitude  at  twelve  was  31°  10'. 

July  5. — Nothing  very  material  occurred  this  day,  excepting 
that  some  flying  fish  began  to  be  seen  around  us,  but  of  so  small 
a sort,  that,  though  they  w*ere  numerous,  it  was  a long  time  be- 
fore I could  distinguish  them  from  the  spray  among  which  they 
fluttered. 

July  6. — We  had  divine  service,  and  1 read  a sermon  on  the 
Epistle  for  the  day."^  I did  not  feel  quite  sure  whether  the  sub- 
ject were  too  diflicult  for  the  major  part  of  my  audience  or  no. 
But  I thought  its  discussion  might,  at  all  events,  be  serviceable 
to  the  educated  part  of  my  hearers,  and  1 did  not  despair  of 
making  myself  understood  by  the  crew.  I am  inclined  to  hope 
that  I succeeded  with  many  of  them.  All  were  very  attentive, 
and  the  petty  oflicers,  more  particularly,  heard  me  with  great 
apparent  interest.  I am,  on  the  whole,  more  and  more  confirmed 
in  the  opinion  which  Horsley  has  expressed  in  one  of  his  sermons, 
that  a theological  argument,  clearly  stated,  and  stated  in  terms 
derived  from  the  ancient  English  language  exclusively,  will  gene- 
rally be  both  intelligible  and  interesting  to  the  lower  classes. 
They  do  not  want  acuteness,  or  the  power  of  attending ; it  is 
their  vocabulary  only  which  is  confined,  and  if  we  address  them 
in  such  words  as  they  understand,  we  may  tell  them  what  truths 
we  please,  and  reason  with  them  as  subtilely  as  we  can. 

The  flying  fish  to-day  were  more  numerous  and  lively.  They 
rose  in  whole  flights  to  the  right  and  left  hand  of  the  bow,  flying 
off  in  different  dii;ections,  as  if  the  vast  body  of  the  ship  alarmed 
and  disturbed  them.  Others,  however,  at  a greater  distance, 
kept  rising  and  falling  without  any  visible  cause,  and,  apparently, 
in  the  gladness  of  their  hearts,  and  in  order  to  enjoy  the  sunshine 
and  the  temporary  change  of  element.  Certainly  there  was  no 
appearance  or  probability  of  any  larger  fish  being  in  pursuit  of 
even  one  hundredth  part  of  those  which  we  saw,  nor  were  there 
any  birds  to  endanger  their  flight ; and  those  writers  who  describe 
the  life  of  these  animals  as  a constant  succession  of  alarms,  and  ren- 
dered miserable  by  fear,  have  never,  1 conceive,  seen  them  in 
their  mirth,  or  considered  those  natural  feelings  of  health  and 
hilarity  which  seem  to  lead  all  creatures  to  exert,  in  mere  light- 
ness of  heart,  whatever  bodily  powers  the  Creator  has  given  them. 
It  would  be  just  as  reasonable  to  say  that  a lamb  leaps  in  a meadow 
for  fear  of  being  bitten  by  serpents,  or  that  a horse  gallops  round 
his  pasture  only  because  a wmlf  is  at  his  heels,  as  to  infer  from 
the  flight  of  these  animals  that  they  are  always  pursued  by  the 
bonito. 

* Sixth  Sunday  after  Trinity. 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


19 


July  8. — The  sun  was  now  fairly  to  the  north  of  us,  and  our 
trade-wind,  though  light,  was  steady.  One  of  the  sailors,  a lad  of 
about  seventeen,  was  accused  of  having,  in  wanton  cruelty, 
stabbed  and  cut  a sheep  so  severely  that  it  bled  to  death.  He 
had  been  cleaning  knives  near  the  sheep-pen,  and  the  animal  was 
found  in  this  condition  shortly  after.  He  protested  his  innocence, 
and  said  the  sheep  had  thrown  down  a board  on  which  the  knives 
were  laid.  The  story  was  a lame  one;  but,  with  a very  praise- 
worthy moderation.  Captain  Manning  merely  ordered  him  for  the 
present  into  confinement,  till  the  business  could  be  more  accu- 
rately inquired  into.  It  is,  he  says,  his  general  rule,  and  the  rule 
of  most  captains  in  the  Company’s  service,  never  to  punish  with- 
out a regular  trial,  or  without  some  pause  intervening  between 
the  accusation  and  the  inquiry. 

July  9. — The  boy’s  trial  came  on,  but  he  Vvas  discharged  for 
want  of  sufficient  evidence,  with  a suitable  admonition.  The  day 
was  fine.  We  were  on  deck  the  greater  part  of  the  morning, 
having  transferred  our  Hindoostanee  lecture  thither.  Our  course 
continues  south-west ; our  latitude  20°  57',  longitude  24°  32'. 
The  favourable  breeze  almost  became  a gale  towards  night ; but 
we  had  less  rolling  than  on  former  occasions. 

July  1 1. — A flying  fish  fell  on  deck  this  morning,  and  I examined 
it. with  much  interest.  The  form  and  colours  are  not  unlike  a 
herring,  with  the  addition  of  the  two  long  filmy  fins  which  sup- 
port the  animal  in  its  short  flights.  This,  however,  was,  as  we 
were  assured,  a very  small  specimen,  not  exceeding  the  size  of  a 
small  sparling  or  smelt. 

July  13. — We  had  divine  service  on  deck  this  morning.  A 
large  shoal  of  dolphins  were  playing  round  the  ship,  and  I thought 
it  right  to  interfere  to  check  the  harpoons  and  fishing-hooks  of 
some  of  the  crew.  I am  not  strict  in  my  notions  of  what  is  called 
the  Christian  Sabbath  ; but  the  wanton  destruction  of  animal  life 
seems  to  be  precisely  one  of  those  works  by  which  the  sanctity 
and  charity  of  our  weekly  feast  would  be  profaned.  The  seamen 
took  my  reproof  in  good  part,  and  left  the  mizen  chains  where 
they  had  been  previously  watching  for  their  prey.  I trust  that 
they  will  have  other  and  better  opportunities  of  amusement ; this 
was  a truly  torrid  day. 

July  15. — A hot  and  close  day,  with  much  swell  and  little  or 
no  wind.  The  sails  flapped  dismally;  the  foretop-sail  was  split; 
and  I saw  with  interest  the  dexterity  of  the  sail-maker  in  repairing 
the  damage  without  unbinding  it  from  the  yard.  The  evening 
was  such  as  to  portend  both  rain  and  wind,  and  one  of  the  men 
at  the  helm  said  that  “ he  hoped  it  would  blow  its  hardest,”  so 
weary  were  the  sailors  of  this  dull  and  uninteresting  weather. 
Lat.  9°  50'.  In  the  course  of  this  day  some  of  the  seamen  went 


20 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


round  to  solicit  subscriptions  from  those  who  had  not  yet  passed 
the  line.  They  showed  considerable  anxiety  for  any  decayed 
finery  which  the  ladies  might  supply  them  with,  as  decorations 
for  Amphitrite  ; and  1 was  amused  to  learn  that  they  had  a copy 
of  T ook’s  Pantheon,  which  they  were  diligently  consulting,  in  order 
to  make  their  costume  as  like  as  possible  to  the  authentic  dress 
and  equipment  of  the  classical  Neptune  and  his  family. 

Juhj  18. — The  night  was  very  blustering  and  rainy,  and  the 
motion  of  the  vessel  unpleasant.  Our  progress,  however,  con- 
tinued rapid  and  the  wind  favourable.  A sail  was,  about  ten, 
seen  a-head,  steering  the  same  course  with  ourselves.  On  nearing 
her  she  showed  Danish  colours.  Captain  Manning  expressed 
some  little  surprise  at  this  meeting.  The  Danish  flag,  he  said, 
was  almost  unknown  in  India,  whither,  apparently,  this  vessel 
was  bound.  The  Danes  have,  indeed,  a nominal  factory,  and  a 
Consul  at  Serampoor ; but  what  little  commerce  is  carried  on  is 
in  the  ships  of  other  nations.  In  the  harbour  of  Calcutta  (and  no 
large  vessels  mount  so  high  as  Serampore)  he  had  never  seen  the 
Danish  flag,  This  seems  strange,  considering  how  long  the  Danes 
have  been  in  possession  not  only  of  Serampore,  but  of  T ranquebar. 
The  Swedish  flag,  he  said,  w^as  never  seen  in  the  Indian  seas.  I 
have  been  pleased,  in  my  different  conversations  with  our  officers 
concerning  foreign  seamen,  to  find  that  the  American  sailors  bear 
a better  character  now  with  those  of  our  own  country  than  1 had 
understood,  or  than  they  really  used  to  do.  They  are  not  so 
grievously  addicted  to  lying  as  they  were  once  said  to  be.  They 
have  less  animosity  against  the  English  than  formerly,  and  their 
character  seems  to  have  recovered  its  natural  English  tone.  One 
of  the  officers  spoke  well  of  their  conduct  even  during  the  late 
war.  A Company’s  ship,  he  said,  on  board  which  he  was  serving, 
had  a number  of  American  prisoners  to  take  home,  who,  for  the 
additional  allowance  of  provisions  usual  on  such  occasions,  under- 
took to  assist  in  navigating  the  ship.  In  this  situation  they  be- 
haved extremely  well,  and,  at  length,  when  a vessel,  supposed  to 
be  an  American,  hove  in  sight,  and  an  action  was  expected,  they 
came  forward  in  a body  to  desire  to  be  sent  below,  being  equally 
resolved  neither  to  fight  against  their  country,  nor  to  break  their 
faith  with  their  captors.  All  the  officers  agreed  in  speaking  very 
ill  of  the  French,  and  of  their  conduct  towards  their  prisoners. 
This  last  they  described  as  being,  in  the  highest  degree,  brutal 
and  ungenerous.  They  said,  too,  that  it  was  the  fault  of  the  pri- 
vate seamen  ntiore  than  of  the  officers.  The  latter  would  often 
be  kinder,  if  it  lay  in  their  power,  to  the  English  than  they  usually 
were;  but  they  could  not  prevent  their  men  from  insulting  and 
abusing  them,  pilfering  their  provisions  and  water,  spitting  and 
pouring  filth  on  them  through  the  gratings,  and,  whenever  an 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


21 


opportunity  offered,  beating  and  throwing  things  at  them.  An 
Englishman  on  board  a French  ship,  they  said,  was  always  half 
starved,  and  abominably  treated,  and  they  spoke  of  the  national 
temper,  as  shown  in  their  seamen,  as  utterly  unkind,  unchristian,, 
and  unmanly.  This  is  a sad  picture,  but  they  who  gave  it  me 
were  neither  interested  in  speaking  untruly,  nor,  that  I could 
perceive,  inclined  to  judge  harshly  of  others.  How  far  the  cha- 
racter of  the  uneducated  French  in  general  may  have  suffered 
under  the  influence  of  the  Revolution  and  its  consequences,  or 
what  circumstances  may  operate  to  depress  the  character  of  their 
seamen  below  the  rest  of  the  nation,  my  informants  had  not  the 
means  of  judging. 

July  20. — To-day,  notwithstanding  some  threatening  appear- 
ances in  the  morning,  we  had  our  usual  prayers  and  sermon. 
During  the  former  I found  that  sea-A:nee5  were  necessary,  as  well 
as  sea-/eg5,  since  the  vessel  was  so  much  on  one  side,  that,  while 
kneeling  on  a chair,  (which  I was  obliged  to  do  rather  than  on 
the  deck,  in  order  that  my  congregation  might  hear  me,)  I had 
some  difficulty  in  keeping  either  myself  or  my  fulcrum  from  going 
to  leeward.  The  afternoon  and  evening  were  pleasant,  but 
though  the  congregation  at  church  was  very  good,  there  were 
many  absentees  at  dinner.  Two  large  birds,  which  the  sailors 
said  were  “ hoobies,”  flew  some  time  round  the  ship  this  evening. 
1 began  to-day  translating  St.  John’s  Gospel  into  Hindoostanee. 

July  22. — The  day  w^as  pleasant  and  the  night  beautiful,  just 
such  an  one  as  a poet  or  a painter  would  wish  to  describe  or 
represent  at  sea.  1 was  pleased,  while  looking  over  Gilchrist’s 
Guide,  with  a little  Ode  by  Koodrut,  of  which  the  following  is  an 
imitation. 

Ambition’s  voice  was  in  my  ear,  she  whisper’d  yesterday, 

“How  goodly  is  the  land  of  Room,  how  wide  the  Russian  sway! 

How  blest  to  conquer  either  realm,  and  dwell  through  life  to  come. 

Lull’d  by  the  harp’s  melodious  string,  cheer’d  by  the  northern  drum !” 

But  Wisdom  heard  ; “ O youth,”  she  said,  “ in  passion’s  fetter  tied, 

O come  and  see  a sight  with  me  shall  cure  thee  of  thy  pride !” 

She  led  me  to  a lonely  dell,  a sad  and  shady  ground. 

Where  many  an  ancient  sepulchre  gleamed  in  the  moon-shine  round. 

And  “ Here  Secunder  sleeps,”  she  cried  ; — “ this  is  his  rival’s  stone  ; 

And  here  the  mighty  chief  reclines  who  rear’d  the  Median  throne. 

Inquire  of  these,  doth  aught  of  all  their  ancient  pomp  remain, 

Save  late  regret,  and  bitter  tears  for  ever,  and  in  vain  ^ 

Return,  return,  and  in  thy  heart  engraven  keep  my  lore ; 

The  lesser  wealth,  the  lighter  load, — small  blame  betides  the  poor.’* 

The  last  two  lines  are  not  in  the  original,  which  I thought, 
though  perhaps  I was  wrong,  ended  too  abruptly  without  some 
such  moral.  My  little  Emily  will  probably  know,  before  she 
reads  the  above,  that  “ Room”  is  the  Oriental  name  for  the 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


22 

Turkish  empire, — that  “ Secunder”  is  Alexander  the  Great, — -and 
that  the  founder  of  the  Median  throne  is  Ky-kaoss,  or  Deiioces. 

July  25. — To-day  the  first  or  introductory  part  of  the  ceremony 
usual  on  passing  the  line,  took  place.  Soon  after  dark  Neptune’s 
boat  was  supposed  to  approach  the  ship,  of  which  notice  was 
given,  in  the  regular  form,  to  the  officer  on  watch.  A sailor  from 
the  fore-chains,  in  a dismal  voice  aggravated  by  a speaking-trum- 
pet, hailed  Captain  Manning  as  if  from  the  sea,  and  after  a short 
conversation  carried  on  with  becoming  gravity,  Neptune  was  sup- 
posed to  take  his  leave,  and  a barrel,  with  a lighted  candle  in  it, 
was  sent  off  from  the  fore-chains  to  represent  his  boat  dropping 
astern.  I was  much  struck  by  the  time  during  which  this  con- 
tinued visible  at  intervals,  rising  and  sinking  on  the  swell,  till  it 
was,  at  least,  two  miles  distant,  and  I grew  tired  of  watching  it. 
Our  latitude  this  day  was  2°  10'  N.  Several  large  birds  were 
seen,  which  we  were  told  were  “ tropic  birds.” 

July  26. — To-day  we  passed  the  line,  and  the  greater  part  of 
it  was  spent  in  the  mummeries  usual  on  such  occasions,  which 
went  off  very  well  and  in  good  humour.  The  passengers  were 
not  liable  to  the  usual  interrogatories  and  shaving,  but  the  male 
part  of  them  took  their  share  in  the  splashing  and  wetting,  which 
make  up  the  main  fun  of  these  naval  saturnalia.  I was  a good 
deal  surprised  at  the  contrivance  exhibited  by  the  masqueraders, 
in  dressing  out  (with  help  of  a little  oakum  and  paint,  a few  fish- 
skins  and  decayed  finery)  the  various  characters  of  Neptune, 
Amphitrite,  Mercury,  Triton,  &c.  with  far  more  attention  to 
classical  costume  than  I expected.  With  the  distance  and  usual 
aids  of  a theatre,  the  show  would  not  have  been  contemptible, 
while  there  was,  as  might  be  supposed,  a sufficient  mixture  of  the 
ludicrous  to  suit  the  purposes  of  fun  and  caricature. 

July  27. — We  had  again  prayers  and  a sermon. 

July  28. — Our  progress  continued  rapid  and  our  course  favour- 
able. The  latitude  to-day  was  4°  40'  S.  The  night  was  very 
beautiful;  and  from  our  situation  on  the  globe,  we  had  the  oppor- 
tunity of  seeing  many  of  the  most  considerable  constellations  of 
both  hemispheres.  Those  of  the  southern  heaven  fall  far  short 
of  the  other  in  number  and  brilliancy ; even  the  cross.^  for  which 
I had  looked  with  much  earnestness  of  expectation,  and  in  which 
1 had  long  taken  a sort  of  romantic  interest,  is  neither  extensive 
nor  conspicuous  except  from  the  comparative  paucity  of  its  neigh- 
bours. The  Great  Bear  still  (though  on  the  verge,  instead  of 
being  at  the  apex  of  the  sky)  retains  its  splendid  pre-eminence 
over  the  whole  host  of  heaven.  The  Pole  Star  has  disappeared. 
The  Magellanic  clouds  are  not  yet  visible. 

We  have  now  been  six  weeks  on  board.  How  little  did  1 
dream  at  this  time  last  year  that  I should  ever  be  in  my  present 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


28 


situation ! How  strange  it  now  seems  to  recollect  the  interest 
which  I used  to  take  in  all  which  related  to  Southern  seas,  and 
distant  regions,  to  India  and  its  oceans,  to  Australasia  and  Poly- 
nesia.  1 used  to  fancy  I should  like  to  visit  them,  but  that  1 ever 
should  or  could  do  so,  never  occurred  to  me.  ISow  that  I shall 
see  many  of  these  countries,  if  life  is  spared  to  me,  seems  not  im- 
probable. God  grant  that  my  conduct  in  the  scenes  to  which  he 
has  appointed  me,  may  be  such  as  to  conduce  to  his  glory,  and  to 
my  own  salvation  through  his  Son  ! 

July  30. — Our  progress  again  good.  The  weather  continues 
pleasant  and  remarkably  cool  for  the  latitude.  The  wind  brisk 
and  sea  rough.  The  evenings  now  shut  in  very  soon  ; and,  even 
at  tea,  it  is  necessary  to  have  the  lamps  lighted  in  the  cuddy. 

July  31. — Our  latitude  this  day  was  12°  54'.  A fine  run,  and 
one  of  the  longest  which  Captain  Manning  remembers  making  in 
this  part  of  the  voyage.  Yet,  which  is  remarkable,  all  the  vessels 
whose  track  is  pricked  on  his  great  chart,  appear  to  have  made 
their  longest  run  nearly  in  the  same  latitude.  Captain  Manning 
thinks  that  the  strength  of  the  wind  in  this  particular  part  of  the 
ocean  is  occasioned  by  the  projection  of  South  America,  and  the 
rarified  state  of  the  air  over  so  large  a tract  of  land  within  the 
tropics. 

.August  1. — The  wind  became  very  high  towards  night,  and  the 
main  top-gallant  sail  was  split  in  pieces.  Two  circumstances 
struck  me  as  remarkable  this  evening.  First,  that  when  the  gale 
grew  strong  about  sunset,  the  sky  was  clear  in  the  wind’s  eye, 
while  to  leeward  of  us,  came  a very  heavy  bank  of  clouds,  which 
retained  its  figure  and  position  as  steadily  as  if  it  were  land. 
The  second  that,  every  now  and  then,  there  was  a total  cessation 
of  wind,  a lull^  as  the  seamen  called  it,  for  two  or  three  minutes, 
after  v/hich  the  gale  revived  with  more  vehemence.  Both  these 
features  were  pointed  out  to  me  as  indications  of  the  gale  being 
likely  to  continue  for  some  time,  and  to  be  serious.  We  have, 
however,  reason  to  be  thankful  that,  except  a good  deal  of  toss- 
ing, no  harm  occurred  ; nor  did  the  gale  increase  to  such  a degree 
as  to  become  alarming  to  those  who  were  least  accustomed  to 
the  sea. 

August  3. — Our  day  again  fine,  and  the  gale  at  first  hardly  ex- 
ceeded a stiff  breeze.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  however, 
the  wind  again  rose.  The  sea  was  very  high,  and  the  motion  of 
the  ship  great  and  troublesome,  pitching,  rolling,  and  performing- 
all  sorts  of  manoeuvres.  YW  assembled  to  prayers  at  half-past 
ten  o’clock  with  some  difficulty;  the  crew  all  stood  in  consequence 
of  the  inconvenience  of  arranging  the  spars  as  usual,  and  I there- 
fore made  the  service  shorter.  Instead  of  a sermon,  I gave 
notice  of  a communion  for  the  following  Sunday;  and,  in  a short 


24  JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 

address,  enforced  the  propriety  and  necessity  of  attendance  on 
that  ordinance,  and  answered  difficulties,  &c.  The  nights  are 
now  completely  dark  by  six  o’clock. 

August  4 — 8. — I do  not  think  that  any  thing  very  material  has 
occurred  during  these  days.  The  wind  has  varied  in  our  favour, 
and  is  now  N.  E.  by  E.  which  enables  us  to  make  a good  deal 
of  easting,  and  our  course  is  regarded  as  a very  good  one.  Our 
progress  through  the  water  has  been  rapid  ; at  an  average,  during 
the  last  three  days,  of  seven  and  a half  knots  an  hour,  and  to- 
day frequently  ten  and  eleven.  The  motion  is,  of  course,  con- 
siderable, but  the  weather  is  very  delightful.  Yesterday  was 
downright  Mtirch  weather,  while  to-day  has  all  the  freshness, 
mildness,  and  beauty  of  an  English  May.  Great  numbers  of 
birds  are  seen  round  the  ship,  and  we  are  told  that,  as  we  ap- 
proach the  Cape,  their  numbers  will  increase  daily.  Those 
called  “ Cape  Pigeons,”  are  very  pretty,  not  unlike  the  land 
bird  whose  name  they  bear,  and  which  they  are  said  to  resemble 
in  flavour.  For  these  last  three  days  the  existence  or  non-existence 
of  the  island  of  Saxenberg  has  been  a frequent  topic  of  conver- 
sation. Captain  Manning  and  his  officers  evidently  incline  to 
the  affirmative,  on  the  ground  that  it  is  more  probable  that  a 
small  isle,  a little  out  of  the  usual  track,  may  have  escaped 
general  notice,  than  that  three  different  captains  of  vessels  can 
have  told  a deliberate  falsehood  without  any  apparent  motive. 
That  a brig  sent  out  to  ascertain  the  fact  may  have  failed  in 
making  the  discovery,  they  do  not  regard  as  at  all  extraordinary. 
They  quote  repeated  instances  of  vessels  from  India  having  failed 
to  find  St.  Helena ; and  I think  1 can  perceive  that  they  do  not 
rate  the  nautical  science  of  many  of  the  commanders  of  the  navy 
very  highly.  They  admit,  however,  that  if  Saxenberg  island 
exists  at  all,  it  must  be  set  down  wrong  in  all  the  charts,  and  in 
the  reckonings  of  its  pretended  discoverers  ; and  that  if  ever 
met  with  again,  it  must  be  by  accident.  This,  they  say,  will 
be  the  less  likely,  because  delusive  appearances  of  land  are  so 
common  in  these  latitudes  of  the  Atlantic,  that  a real  island,  if 
seen,  would  be  very  likely  to  pass,  among  the  rest,  as  a fog-bank, 
while  the  prevailing  winds  generally  confine  vessels  to  one  or 
the  other  of  two  courses,  according  as  they  are  outward  or  home- 
ward bound  ; so  that,  in  fact,  abundance  of  unexplored  room  still 
exists,  and  is  likely  to  exist,  in  the  southern  Atlantic,  for  two  or 
three  such  islands  as  this  is  represented  to  be.  Captain  Manning 
says  that  he  always,  if  he  finds  himself  near  the  supposed  situa- 
tion, keeps  a good  look-out.  He  says  that  all  the  older  charts, 
particularly  the  Dutch,  abound  in  islets,  rocks,  and  shoals,  the 
very  existence  of  which  is  now  more  than  doubtful.  Some  of 
these  dangers  he  conceives  to  have  been  fog-banks,  some  to  have 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


25 


been  a repetition  of  those  named  elsewhere,  but  of  which  tliey 
had  mistaken  the  site ; others,  however,  he  thinks,  were  pious 
frauds,  inserted  on  purpose  to  make  young  mariners  look  about 
them. 

August  9. — This  morning  I saw,  or  thought  I saw,  a common 
white  sea-gull,  a bird  in  which  1 hardly  could  be  mistaken,  and 
which,  in  size  and  other  circumstances,  sufficiently  differs  from 
the  Cape  pigeons.  It,  however,  rarely  goes  far  from  land,  and 
is  therefore  considered  as  a presumption  that  Saxenberg  really 
exists  somewhere  in  the  neighbourhood.  Nor  is  this  all ; one  of 
the  crew  saw  this  morning  a piece  of  sea-weed,  and  two  of  the 
passengers  a large  crab,  both  equally  strong  evidences  of  such  a 
vicinity.  From  that  vicinity,  however,  we  are  fast  proceeding; 
and  this,  if  Saxenberg  exists,  is  probably  all  that  we  shall  see  of 
it.  While  such  a topic,  however,  was  under  discussion,  we  almost 
overlooked,  (what  else  would  have  drawn  general  attention,) 
that  the  first  albatross  which  we  have  seen,  made  its  appearance 
to-day,  sailing  majestically  around  us  on  its  wide  dusky  wings, 
unquestionably  one  of  the  largest  birds  which  I ever  saw. 
During  these  last  two  nights  the  motion  of  the  vessel  was  so 
« violent  as  to  throw  my  cot  far  beyond  its  usual  bounds,  against 
the  cabin-lockers  and  chest  of  drawers.  After  several  rude 
shocks  of  this  kind,  I unhooked  and  stretched  it  on  the  deck ; 
but  even  there  the  inclination  of  the  ship  was  such,  that  I had 
some  difficulty  in  keeping  myself  and  my  bed  from  parting  com- 
pany, and  slipping  or  rolling  to  leeward. 

August  10. — Last  night  1 again  slept  on  the  floor,  and  passed 
it  still  more  uncomfortably  than  on  former  occasions,  insomuch 
that  I almost  determined  rather  to  run  the  risk  of  blows  and 
bruises  aloft,  than  to  encounter  the  discomforts  of  the  new 
method.  This  morning,  however,  the  wind  became  again  mode- 
rate, and  I finished  and  preached  my  sermon,  and,  afterwards, 
administered  the  sacrament  to  about  twenty-six  or  twenty-seven 
persons,  including  ail  the  ladies  on  board,  the  captain,  and  the 
greater  part  of  the  under  officers  and  male  passengers,  but,  alas, 
only  three  seamen.  This  last  result  disappointed  me,  since  I had 
hoped,  from  their  attention  to  my  sermons,  and  the  general  de- 
cency of  their  conduct  and  appearance,  that  more  would  have 
attended.  Yet,  when  I consider  how, great  difficulty  I have 
always  found  in  bringing  men  of  the  same  age  and  rank  to  the 
sacrament  at  Hodnet,  perhaps  I have  no  reason  to  be  surprised. 
On  talking  with  one  of  the  under  officers  in  the  evening,  he  told 
me  that  more  would  have  staid,  if  they  had  not  felt  shy^  and 
been  afraid  of  exciting  the  ridicule  of  their  companions.  The 
same  feeling,  1 find,  kept  one  at  least,  and  perhaps  more,  of  the 
young  cadets  and  writers  away,  though  of  these  there  were  only 

VoL.  ].— 4 


26 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


two  or  three  absentees,  the  large  majority  joining  in  the  ceremony 
with  a seriousness  w^hich  greatly  pleased  and  impressed  me.  And 
the  same  may  be  said  of  all  the  midshipmen  who  were  old  enough 
to  receive  it.  One  of  the  young  cadets  expressed  his  regret  to 
me  that  he  had  not  been  confirmed,  but  hoped  that  I should  give 
him  an  opportunity  soon  after  our  arrival  at  Calcutta.  On  the 
whole,  the  result  of  the  experiment  (for  such  it  was  considered) 
has  been  most  satisfactory  ; and  1 ought  to  be,  and  1 hope  am, 
very  grateful  for  the  attention  which  I receive,  and  the  opportu- 
nities of  doing  good,  which  seem  to  be  held  out  to  me.  I am 

the  more  so,  because  Mr.  B had,  a few  days  before,  predicted 

that  I should  have  not  above  one  or  two  communicants  at  most ; 
and  added,  as  a sort  of  apology  for  himself,  that  he  was  brought 
up  in  the  Church  of  Scotland,  and  therefore  held  all  ceremonies 
superfluous  and  unavailing.  1 reminded  him  that  his  church  and 
mine  agreed  in  the  etficacy  and  necessity  of  occasionally  receiv- 
ing the  Communion,  hut  the  conversation  went  no  further.  Pos- 
sibly he  meant  that  the  forms  required  by  the  Church  of  England, 
where  they  differ  from  those  of  Scotland,  were  such  as  he  did 
not  approve  of.  If  so,  as  I have  reason  to  believe  that  many 
persons,  both  in  Scotland  and  on  the  Continent,  have  strange 
notions  of  our  ceremonies,  his  having  been  an  accidental  specta- 
tor of  them  (for  he  was  on  the  poop  all  the  time)  may  remove 
some  prejudices.  I observed,  indeed,  that  many  of  the  seamen, 
though  they  did  not  join  us,  looked  on  after  they  had  left  the 
quarter-deck  with  much  seeming  interest,  and  I almost  hope,  that 
if  another  opportunity  occurs  before  our  landing  in  Bengal,  more 
will  attend.  Of  the  young  men  who  did  attend,  1 was  happy 
to  observe  that  they  had  all  religious  books  in  their  hands  in  the 
course  of  the  evening,  and  that  they  appeared,  indeed,  much 
impressed. 

How  different  is  the  treatment  which  I meet  with  in  the  ex- 
ercise of  my  duties  on  ship-board  from  that  of  which  Martyn^ 
complains  ! A great  change,  indeed,  as  every  body  tells  me,  has, 
since  his  time,  occurred  in  the  system  of  a sea  life.  Most  com- 
manders of  vessels  are  now  anxious  to  keep  up,  at  least,  the 
appearance  of  religion  among  their  men ; and,  in  many  cases, 
the  danger  is  said  to  be,  not  from  neglect,  but  fanaticism.  To 

• 

* Henry  Martyn  went  out  to  India,  as  chaplain  on  the  Bengal  Establishment, 
in  the  year  1805.  He  translated  the  Testament  and  Book  of  Common  Prayer 
into  Hindoostanee  ; <\nd  on  finding  that  the  existing  translation  of  the  former 
into  Persian  was  unfit  for  general  use,  he  undertook  a journey  into  Persia,  and, 
with  the  assistance  of  some  intelligent  natives,  completed  a new  version  of  the 
Testament,  and  also  translated  the  Psalms  into  that  language.  He  died  at 
Tocat,  on  his  return  to  England,  in  the  year  1812.  A memoir  of  his  life,  with 
his  journal,  has  been  published  by  the  Pteverend  John  Sargent. — Ed. 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


27 


this  the  custom  (which  is  now  extremely  common,  both  in  the 
navy  and  the  merchant  service)  of  prayer-meetings  among  the 
crew,  where  each,  in  turn,  delivers  an  extempore  address  to  the 
Almighty,  must  greatly  contribute  ; and  I hardly  know  whether 
a custom,  (however  well  meant,  and  however  comfortable,  and 
often  most  edifying  to  men  thrown  into  close  contact  with  each 
other,  surrounded  by  dangers  and  hardships,  and  removed  from 
all  regular  ministry  of  the  Gospel,)  has  not  these  benefits  coun- 
terbalanced by  the  self-conceit,  the  enthusiasm,  and  divisions  in 
faith  and  doctrine  which  may  arise  from  it.  Yet  the  practice,  after 
all,  is  one  which  none  could  venture  to  forbid^  and  the  dangers  of 
which  may  be  materially  abated  by  supplying  these  good  men 
with  some  better  guides  to  devotion  than  their  own  extempora- 
neous invention — and,  still  more,  by  a regular  performance  of 
divine  service  according  to  the  English  Liturgy,  wherever  and 
whenever  this  is  possible.  On  board  the  Grenville,  though  the 
men  are  extremely  orderly,  no  prayer-meetings  have  been  yet 
thought  of,  nor,  for  the  reasons  which  I have  mentioned,  do  I 
wish  for  them.  The  men,  however,  are  extremely  well  supplied 
with  bibles,  prayer-books,  and  religious  tracts,  which  many  of 
them  read  aloud  to  their  less  educated  messmates  every  evening. 
The  boys  sent  by  the  Marine  Society  have  regular  instruction  in 
the  Scriptures  every  day ; and  the  schoolmaster.  Peacock,  is  an 
excellent  man,  who,  I have  reason  to  believe,  does  much  good 
among  his  messmates,  as  well  as  that  he  is  very  assiduous  and 
intelligent  in  teaching  those  who  are  immediately  under  his  care. 
Of  Captain  Manning  himself,  1 had  previously  heard  an  excellent 
character,  and  find  every  thing  true  which  had  been  reported. 

August  11. — We  had  a good  night,  and  a smooth  though  rapid 
progress.  I had  the  happiness  of  hearing,  for  the  first  time,  my 
dear  little  Emily  repeat  a part  of  the  Lord’s  prayer,  which  her 
mother  has  been,  for  some  days  past,  engaged  in  teaching  her. 
May  He,  who  “ from  the  mouth  of  babes  and  sucklings”  can  bring 
forth  His  praise,  inspire  her  heart  with  every  thing  pure  and  holy, 
and  grant  her  grace  betimes,  both  to  understand  and  love  His. 
name ! 

After  writing  out  my  usual  translation,  I occupied  myself  daring 
the  morning  in  mastering,  by  help  of  Gilchrist’s  preposterously 
arranged  vocabulary,  some  of  the  Hindoostanee  poetry  in  his 
“ Guide.”  I have  thus  more  and  more  convinced  myself,  that 
what  is  called  the  florid  eastern  style  is  chiefly  to  be  found  in 
translations,  and  that  the  characteristics  of  the  originals  are  often 
rather  flatness  and  vapidity,  than  exuberance  of  ornament.  But 
I really  feel  my  liking  for  these  studies  increase  as,  by  progress, 
they  become  less  difficult.  This  is,  however,  too  early  a day  for 


28 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


me  to  form  any  fixed  opinion  on  either  Hindoo  or  Persian  litera- 
ture. 

August  14. — We  passed  some  sea-weed  this  morning,  which 
was  considered  as  a singular  and  perplexing  occurrence,  since  no 
Saxenberg  was  ever  suspected  in  our  present  neighbourhood.  It 
probably  came  from  Tristan  d’Acunha.  Several  whales,  some 
of  them  of  a large  size,  played  round  the  ship  for  above  half  an 
hour.  I obtained  a very  favourable  view  of  one  of  them,  which 
struck  me  from  its  perfect  resemblance  to  the  grampus  which  I 
had  seen  before,  both  in  shape,  and  the  colour  and  smoothness  of 
its  skin.  The  water  which  it  blew  through  its  nostrils  appeared 
in  a form  something  different  from  what  1 had  expected.  1 had 
imagined,  I hardly  know  why,  that  it  was'  to  be  a small  high,  slen- 
der jet-dhau^  whereas  it  escaped  in  a thick  white  cloud,  like  the 
steam  from  an  engine,  and  with  pretty  nearly  the  same  noise.  I 
W'as  pleased  to  witness  the  apparent  happiness  of  these  poor  ani- 
mals, which  were  supposed  to  be  two  old  ones  with  one  or  more 
young;  and  rejoiced  that  no  southern  whaler  was  in  sight.  While 
we  were  gazing  at  these  leviathans,  one  of  the  midshipmen  caught 
a sea-bird  on  a hook;  it  was  said  to  be  a “Cape  hen,”  (I  believe 
a Gannet,)  a little  larger  than  a large  goose,  with  brown  glossy 
feathers,  large  white  eyes  with  black  pupils,  a broad  yellow  bill, 
very  slender  legs,  broad  webbed  feet,  and  long  wings  resembling 
those  of  a kite.  It  bled  a little,  but  seemed  very  slightly  injured 
by  the  hook.  WTen  set  down  on  the  deck,  it  looked  round  with- 
out any  appearance  of  fear,  but  endeavoured  in  vain  to  rise,  its 
wings  being  too  long  to  admit  of  its  doing  so  from  a plain  and 
solid  surface.  Mr.  Gresley  took  a drawing  of  it,  after  which  it 
was,  by  the  unanimous  consent  of  the  spectators,  returned  in 
safety  to  the  sea.  During  its  continuance  on  deck,  it  had  shown 
marks  of  sickness,  which  Captain  Manning  said  these  bifSs  gene- 
rally did  in  such  a situation ; and  even  when  in  the  water  it  seemed 
for  some  time  a little  languid.  By  degrees,  however,  it  began  to 
ply  its  web-feet  and  wings  at  the  same  time,  and  scudded  rapidly 
over  the  surface  of  the  calm  sea,  with  a motion  between  flying 
and  swimming.  Nothing  can  be  more  genial  than  the  climate  of 
this  day,  or  more  resembling  a fine  May  morning  in  England. 
The  month,  however,  answers  to  our  February;  so  that  we  may 
yet  look  for  some  bitter  March  winds  before  we  shall  have  passed 
the  Cape.  In  the  evening  another  bird,  of  appearance  nearly 
similar  to  the  foregoing,  but  smaller,  and  with  a more  crooked 
beak,  was  caught,  but,  less  fortunate  than  the  other,  was  killed 
for  the  sake  of  having  his  skin  stuffed.  This  last  seems  to  be  the 
bird  called  the  sea-parrot. 

August  15. — Another  tine  night.  The  wind  has  gone  consi- 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


29 


derably  astern  of  us,  and  studding  sails  are  set  on  the  foremast. 
Lat.  35°  20'.  E.  Long.  1°  54'.  Last  night  1 believe  we  all  thought 
much  of  home,  as  we  passed  (which  occurred  about  nine  o’clock) 
the  meridian  of  Greenwich.  It  was  a pleasing,  though  almost 
painful  task,  to  figure  to  ourselves  the  different  employments  of 
our  friends  in  different  places  in  England.  God  bless  them! 
While  our  minds  were  thus  occupied,  a chance  appeared  to  have 
been  drawing  near  of  communicating  with  them  sooner  than  we 
expected.  A vessel  this  morning  came  in  sight,  which  Captain 
Manning  apprehended  to  be  bound  to  the  Cape.  Every  body 
went  in  all  haste  to  finish  or  write  their  letters.  I had  already  a 
huge  packet  accumulating.  We  came  up  with  the  stranger  about 
three  o’clock ; she  showed  English  colours,  and  proved  to  be  a 
brig  belonging  to  the  Mauritius,  and  bound  thither,  sixty-four  days 
from  Bordeaux.  Captain  Manning  sent  a boat  on  board,  with 
the  purser,  partly  to  learn  whether  she  was  to  touch  at  the  Cape, 
partly  to  try  to  purchase  some  claret.  Major  Sackville  and  I 
went  in  her.  Our  visit  was  of  use  to  the  crew,  both  as  Captain 
Manning  sent  them  the  true  longitude,  which  they  had  not  got  by 
more  than  two  degrees ; and  as  we  undertook  the  care  of  a packet 
of  letters  which  they  wished  to  forward  to  Calcutta.  They  were 
not  to  stop  at  the  Cape,  so  that  our  packets  turned  out  to  have 
been  made  up  in  vain.  The  Grenville  looked  very  well  when 
her  stern  was  towards  us.  She  is  really  a fine  vessel,  and  looks 
like  a fifty-gun  ship  of  war;  she  has  completely  established  her 
character  for  fast  sailing,  having  fairly  distanced  every  vessel 
which  she  has  fallen  in  with,  except  the  Christiana,  whom  we 
spoke  off  Madeira,  and  who  was  so  much  favoured  by  the  light 
wind  and  other  circumstances,  as  to  make  her  superior  progress 
no  cause  of  wonder.  1 am  glad  of  this  on  all  accounts,  as  it  not 
only  expedites  our  voyage,  but  makes  our  kind-hearted  Captain 
completely  happy.  The  weather  continues  beautiful. 

' I have  been  reading  Hindoostanee  to  myself,  and  this  morning 
finished  the  following  translation  of  one  of  the  poems  in  Gilchrist’s 
Hindoostanee  Guide.  From  his  paraphrase^  1 cannot  say  I de- 
rived any  great  assistance.  I have,  however,  endeavoured  to  be 
more  faithful  than  he  has  been,  though  the  “ ruhe  ruhe”  of  the 
original  is,  I admit,  untranslateable,  and  only  to  be  imitated  afar 
off. 

SONNET  BY  THE  LATE  NAWAB  OF  OUDE,  ASUF  UD  DOWLA. 

In  those  eyes  the  tears  that  glisten  as  in  pity  for  my  pain, 

Are  they  gems,  or  only  dew-drops?  can  they,  will  they  long  remain? 

Why  thy  strength  of  tyrant  beauty  thiis,  with  seeming  ruth,  restrain? 

Better  breathe  my  last  before  tliee,  than  in  lingering  grief  remain ! 


30 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


To  yon  planet,  Fate  has  given  every  month  to  wax  and  wane ; 

And — thy  world  of  blushing  brightness — can  it,  will  it  long  remain  ? 

Health  and  youth  in  balmy  moisture  on  thy  cheek  their  seat  maintain ; 

But — the  dew  that  steeps  the  rose-bud — can  it,  will  it  long  remain? 

Asuf ! why  in  mournful  numbers,  of  thine  absence  thus  complain, 

Chance  had  joined  us,  chance  has  parted! — nought  on  earth  can  long  remain. 

In  the  world  mayst  thou,  beloved  I live  exempt  from  grief  and  pain ! 

On  my  lips  the  breath  is  fleeting, — can  it,  will  it  long  remain  ? 

August  17. — Read  prayers  and  preached.  The  sea  was  too 
high  to  allow  the  men  to  sit  down,  or  the  awning  to  be  hoisted, 
and  it  was  extremely  cold,  a thorough  English  March  morning. 
Our  run  since  yesterday  has  been  234  miles.  Lat.  35°  23'.  E. 
long.  11°  6'. 

August  1 8. — The  same  breeze,  which  has  now  increased  to 
what  seamen  call  a strong  gale,  with  a high  rolling  sea  from  the 
south-west.  Both  yesterday  and  to-day  we  have  had  the  oppor- 
tunity of  seeing  no  insufficient  specimen  of  those  gigantic  waves 
of  which  1 have  often  heard  as  prevailing  in  these  latitudes.  In 
a weaker  vessel,  and  with  less  confidence  in  our  officers  and  crew, 
they  would  he  alarming  as  well  as  awful  and  sublime.  But,  in 
our  case,  seen  as  they  are  from  a strong  and  well-found  ship,  in 
fine  clear  weather,  and  with  good  sea  room,  they  constitute  a 
magnificent  spectacle,  which  may  he  contemplated  with  unmixed 
pleasure.  1 have  hardly  been  able  to  leave  the  deck,  so  much 
have  I enjoyed  it,  and  my  wife,  who  happily  now  feels  very  little 
inconvenience  from  the  motion,  has  expressed  the  same  feelings. 
The  deep  blue  of  the  sea,  the  snow-white  tops  of  the  waves,  their 
enormous  sweep,  the  alternate  sinking  and  rising  of  the  ship  which 
seems  like  a plaything  in  a giant’s  hands,  and  the  vast  multitude 
of  sea-birds  skimming  round  us,  constitute  a picture  of  the  most 
exhilarating,  as  well  as  the  most  impressive  character;  and  1 trust 
a better  and  holier  feeling  has  not  been  absent  from  our  minds, 
of  thankfulness  to  Him  who  has  thus  far  protected  us,  who  blesses 
us  daily  with  so  many  comforts  beyond  what  might  be  expected 
in  our  present  situation,  and  who  has  giyen  us  a passage,  through- 
out the  whole  extent  of  the  Atlantic,  so  unusually  rapid  and  fa- 
vourable. The  birds  which  surround  us  are  albatrosses,  and  snow 
peterels.  The  Cape  pigeons  have  disappeared,  being  probably 
driven  to  shore  by  the  gale.  The  other  birds  come  from  the 
southward,  and  are  considered  as  indications  of  a tremendous 
storm  in  that  quarter,  from  which  our  unusually  northern  course 
has  exempted  us.  Lat.  34°  54'.  E.  long.  15°  30'.  This  day  ends 
the  ninth  week  of  our  abode  on  board  the  Grenville. 

August  19. — During  the  night  we  made  considerable  southing, 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA, 


31 


and  passed  the  Cape.  In  the  evening  we  had  a distant  but  tole- 
rably distinct  view  of  the  Cape  Aguillas  or  Lagullos,  the  most 
southerly  promontory  of  Africa.  Our  wind  is  now  lighter,  but 
the  swell  still  great ; such  a swell  (and  indeed  much  more,  all 
things  considered,  than  we  now  feel)  is  to  be  expected  on  the 
banks  of  Lagullos,  a range  of  submarine  mountains,  of  extent  not 
yet  ascertained,  which  project  from  the  foot  of  Southern  Africa, 
like  a vast  buttress  to  support  it  against  the  invasions  of  the  An- 
tarctic Ocean.  The  depth  of  water  is  considerable  in  every  part 
of  the  bank,  and  consequently  fish  are  scarce  at  any  distance  from 
shore.  In  the  creeks  and  bays  of  the  visible  coast  they  are  said 
to  swarm.  And  thus  we  are  in  the  Indian  Ocean  ! 

August  20 — 23. — We  have  been  these  four  days  beating  to  and 
fro  on  the  bank  of  Lagullos,  with  a contrary  wind  or  no  wind  at 
all,  alternately,  suffering  a good  deal  from  the  motion  of  the  vessel. 
On  the  22d  we  were  on  the  supposed  position  of  the  Telemaque 
shoal,  when  a boy  at  the  mast-head  cried  out  “ breakers.”  They 
turned  out,  however,  to  be  only  the  reflection  of  the  sun  on  the 
waves.  So  that  the  existence  or  situation  of  this  danger  is  still 
as  dubious  as  ever. 

August  24. — A southern  breeze  sprung  up  this  morning,  and 
we  have  begun  our  progress  eastward  anew,  though  at  present 
inclining  much  towards  the  south,  where  Captain  Manning  hopes 
to  find  the  wind  more  settled.  We  had  prayers  and  a sermon, 
but  the  weather  was,  as  on  last  Sunday,  too  unsettled  to  permit 
the  men  to  sit  down,  or  the  awning  to  be  extended.  The  breeze 
has,  however,  put  all  the  party  into  much  better  spirits,  and  con- 
sidering the  degree  in  which  we  have  been  previously  favoured, 
a four  or  five  days’  delay  here  is  a trifling  drawback. 

August  30. — Alas  ! our  flattering  breeze  left  us  in  a few  hours, 
and  from  Monday  till  Thursday  we  had  very  little  wind,  and  that 
adverse ; yet  we  did  not  remain  absolutely  stationary,  having  got 
into  a powerful,  and,  hitherto,  little  known  current,  from  the  S. 
W.  which  forwarded  us  on  our  voyage  almost  as  much  as  a light 
wind  would  have  done.  On  Wednesday  evening  and  Thursday 
morning  more  particularly,  though  the  weather  was  such  a per- 
fect calm  that  the  ship  was  absolutely  her  own  mistress,  and  would 
not  answer  the  helm,  yet  we  found  to  our  surprise  that  during 
the  twenty-four  hours  we  had  advanced  two  degrees  of  longitude. 
On  Thursday  a light  breeze  blew,  which,  with  the  friendly  help 
of  the  current,  helped  us  on  three  degrees  more.  And  on  Friday 
and  Saturday  we  had  a stiff  gale,  which  fairly  placed  us  at  twelve 
o’clock  the  latter  day  in  lat.  36°  52'.  E.  long.  42°  59'.  This  was, 
of  course,  not  effected  without  considerable  tossing. 

The  day  was  rainy,  and  the  sea  broke  over  the  quarter-deck 
fiercely.  My  wife,  however,  braved  it,  and  walked  a good  deal, 


/ 

32  JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 

and  all  the  men  on  board  were  in  high  spirits.  Captain  Manning 
said,  “ If  there  was  virtue  in  canvass,  he  would  make  the  run  of 
the  following  day  better  than  this  which  was  246  miles  by  the 
log,  and  I believe  the  best  we  have  had  during  the  present  voyage. 
The  current  which  so  long  befriended  us  is  now  replaced  by 
another  of  an  opposite  tendency,  and  which  appears  to  have  come 
from  the  great  channel  of  Mozambique,  of  which,  in  this  day’s 
run,  we  have  been  crossing  the  mouth.  Our  course  is  east,  a 
little  inclining  to  the  north.  The  climate  is  very  like  that  of 
England  in  spring.  The  passengers,  however,  and  the  young 
men  more  particularly,  are  not  healthy,  and  several  absentees  are 
remarked  from  every  dinner.  Mr.  Shaw  says  that  he  has  seldom 
found  a ship  a favourable  situation  either  for  preserving  or  re- 
covering health.  The  want  of  exercise  and  of  mental  employ-' 
ment  sufficiently  account  for  this  circumstance.  My  own  general 
good  health,  1 am  convinced,  1 owe  in  no  small  degree  to  my 
persevering  walks  on  the  quarter-deck,  and  my  Hindoostanee 
studies.  In  these  I certainly  am  not  idle,  though,  alas  ! I cannot 
say  much  of  my  own  proficiency.  On  Sunday  31st,  we  had  again 
prayers  and  a sermon,  though  the  weather  was  too  much  unsettled 
to  admit  of  the  men  sitting  down,  and  consequently  the  former 
were  curtailed  a little  of  their  just  proportion.  Afterwards  I 
went  with  Captain  Manning  and  Mr.  Elliott,  the  surgeon,  to  visit 
the  sick  seamen,  of  whom  there  were  three  or  four  more  seriously 
indisposed  than  usual.  One  poor  man  who  was  recovering  from 
the  efifects  of  a fall  a few  days  before,  which  had  threatened  to 
affect  his  brain,  was  very  intelligent,  and  grateful  to  God  for  his 
deliverance.  The  others  were  not  so  favourably  disposed.  I 
persuaded  them,  however,  to  meet  me  in  the  afternoon,  and  join 
in  a few  prayers. 

Friday^  September  5. — Here  follows  a version  of  a part  of  this 
day’s  lesson  from  the  Gulistan.  It  was  the  inscription,  says  Sadi, 
over  the  arched  alcove  of  Feridoon’s  Hall. 

Brother  ! know  the  world  deceiveth  ! 

Trust  on  Him  who  safety  giveth  ! 

Fix  not  on  the  world  thy  trust, 

She  feeds  us — but  she  turns  to  dust, 

And  the  bare  earth  or  kingly  throne 
Alike  may  serve  to  die  upon  !” 

The  next  is  not  so  good,  but  is  almost  equally  literal:  both 
seem  to  confirm  my  suspicions  as  to  the  real  character  of  Asiatic 
poetry. 

“ The  man  who  leaveth  life  behind. 

May  well  and  boldly  speak  his  mind. 

Where  flight  is  none  from  battle  field, 

We  blithely  snatch  the  sword  and  shield  ; 


33 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 

Where  hope  is  past,  and  hate  is  strong, 

The  wretch’s  tongue  is  sharp  and  long; 

Myself  have  seen,  in  wild  despair. 

The  feeble  cat  the  mastiff  tear.” 

It  is  strange  to  see  how  flowery  these  passages  become  in 
Gladwin’s  translation  ; yet  I can  safely  say  that  my  rude  lines  are 
most  like  the  original. 

On  Tuesday  the  9th,  at  twelve,  we  were  in  lat.  26°  55',  long. 
76°  44',  with  a fine  wind  from  the  south-east,  which  every  body 
on  board  was  willing  to  hope  was  the  “ trade  wind.”  In  conse- 
quence we  look  forward  to  our  probable  arrival  at  Saugor 
anchorage  before  the  1st  of  October;  and  some  of  our  party  are 
almost  tempted  to  murmur  at  the  singular  rapidity  with  which 
our  passage  has  been  favoured,  as  bringing  us  into  India  at  an 
unwholesome  season.  For  my  own  part,  1 have  no. apprehensions 
either  for  myself  or  those  most  dear  to  me.  We  are  all,  at  this 
moment,  in  excellent  health.  Our  habits  of  living  have  been,  for 
some  time  back,  such  as  are  most  likely  to  enable  us  to  bear  a 
change  of  climate  without  injury ; and  even  during  the  worst  and 
most  sickly  time  of  the  year  in  Calcutta,  by  all  which  1 can  learn, 
little  more  is  necessary  to  preserve  health  than  to  be  strictly  tem- 
perate, and  to  remain  quiet  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  and  while 
it  rains.  And,  indeed,  while  we  are  enjoying  and  have  enjoyed 
such  daily  and  remarkable  protection  from  God  during  the  whole 
of  our  voyage,^  \^ould  be  cowardice  in  the  extreme  to  distrust 
his  further  mercies,  or  to  shrink  back  from  those  dangers  which, 
some  time  or  other,  a resident  in  India  must  expect  to  encounter, 
and  which  a new-comer  is,  perhaps,  as  able  to  bear  as  any  other 
person.  I therefore  feel  at  present  nothing  but  pleasure  in  the 
anticipation  of  our  speedy  arrival  in  that  scene  where  I am  here- 
after to  labour ; or  if  I feel  any  anxiety,  it  is  only  as  to  the  manner 
in  which  I may  be  able  to  acquit  myself  of  duties  so  important, 
and  in  a situation  so  new.  Deus  adjuvet  per  Jesum  Christum  ! 

Friday^  September  12. — Few  things  now  occur  to  insert,  except 
my  progress  in  Hindoostanee.  The  following  lines  are  also  from 
the  Gulistan,  rather  more  loosely  translated  than  some  of  those 
which  have  preceded  them.  I have,  however,  sufficiently  pre- 
served their  character. 

“ Who  the  silent  man  can  prize, 

If  a fool  he  be  or  wise  ? 

Yet,  though  lonely  seem  the  wood. 

Therein  may  lurk  the  beast  of  blood. 

Often  bashful  looks  conceal 
Tongue  of  fire  and  heart  of  steel. 

And  deem  not  thou,  in  forest  gray. 

Every  dappled  skin  thy  prey ; 

Lest  thou  rouse,  with  luckless  spear, 

The  tiger  for  the  fallow-deer  !” 


VoL.  I.— 5 


34  JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 

A tropic  bird  was  seen  to-day,  very  large,  and  white  as  snow, 
but  without  the  two  long  tail-feathers  which  are  his  principal 
ornament.  The  immense  distance  from  land  at  which  these  birds 
are  seen  is  really  surprising.  The  Isle  of  Bourbon  is  the  nearest 
point,  and  that  must  be  a distance  of  two  thousand  miles.  For 
many  days  back  the  beautiful  Cape  pigeons  have  ceased  to  attend 
us. 

On  Sunday^  September  14,  we  had  again  divine  service,  and  I 
afterwards  (as  has  been  my  occasional  custom  for  some  time 
back)  prayed  with  the  sick  below.  Their  number  still  continues 
inconsiderable,  and  there  is  no  case  of  absolute  danger,  though 
one  poor  lad  has  had  a very  tedious  intermitting  fever.  Symp- 
toms of  our  advanced  progress  are  visible  in  the  preparations 
making  in  the  cutter,  which  Captain  Manning  is  sheathing  with 
zinc,  and  fitting  up  with  masts  and  sails  for  the  navigation  of  the 
Ganges.  His  good-nature  and  obliging  disposition  have  spared 
us  another  preparation  which  at  these  times  is  usual.  I mean, 
painting  the  ship  previous  to  her  appearing  in  harbour ; an  ope- 
ration which  must  have  made  the  whole  population  of  the  vessel 
miserable  for  some  days.  I am  heartily  glad  to  escape  this. 

September  18. — This  evening  we  had  a most  beautiful  sunset — 
the  most  remarkable  recollected  by  any  of  the  officers  or  passen- 
gers, and  I think  the  most  magnificent  spectacle  I ever  saw.  Be- 
sides the  usual  beautiful  tints  of  crimson,  flan^g-cglour,  &c.,  which 
the  clouds  displayed,  and  which  were  strangeljjcontrasted  with 
the  deep  blue  of  the  sea,  and  the  lighter,  but  equally  beautiful 
blue  of  the  sky,  there  were  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of 
the  sinking  sun,  and  for  some  time  after  his  disc  had  disappeared, 
large  tracts  of  a pale  translucent  green,  such  as  1 had  never  seen 
before  except  in  a prism,  and  surpassing  every  effect  of  paint,  or 
glass,  or  gem.  Every  body  on  board  was  touched  and  awed  by 
the  glory  of  the  scene,  and  many  observed,  that  such  a spectacle 
alone  was  worth  the  whole  voyage  from  England.  One  circum- 
stance in  the  scene  struck  me  as  different  from  all  which  I had 
been  led  to  expect  in  a tropical  sunset.  I mean,  that  its  progress 
from  light  to  darkness  was  much  more  gradual  than  most  travel- 
lers and  philosophers  have  stated.  The  dip  of  the  sun  did  not 
seem  more  rapid,  nor  did  the  duration  of  the  tints  on  the  horizon 
appear  materially  less,  than  on  similar  occasions  in  England. 
Neither  did  I notice  any  striking  difference  in  the  continuance  of 
the  twdight.  I pointed  out  the  fact  to  Major  Sackville,  who  an- 
swered, that  he  had  long  been  convinced  that  the  supposed 
rapidity  of  sunrise  and  sunset  in  India  had  been  exaggerated, — 
that  he  had  always  found  a good  hour  between  dawn  and  sun- 
rise, and  little  less  between  sunset  and  total  darkness.  As,  indeed, 
we  are  at  present  within  three  degrees  of  the  line,  we  must,  ct 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


35 


fortiori^  have  witnessed  this  precipitancy  of  the  sun,  if  it  really 
existed  any  where,  in  a still  greater  degree  than  it  can  be  wit- 
nessed in  any  part  of  Hindostan. 

September  19. — 1 wakened  before  dawn  this  morning,  and  had 
therefore  an  opportunity  of  verifying,  to  a certain  extent.  Major 
Sackville’s  observations  on  a tropical  sunrise.  I had  no  watch, 
but  to  my  perceptions  his  account  was  accurate.  Our  breeze 
continues  very  light,  and  the  heat  intense.  Our  progress,  how- 
ever, is  steady,  and  we  were  this  day  at  twelve,’ south  lat.  1°  16'. 
We  had  again  a fine  sunset  which,  though  inferior  to  that  of  the 
day  before,  was  decorated  by  two  concentric  rainbows  of  con- 
siderable beauty  and  brilliancy,  the  colours  of  the  outer  rainbow 
being  arranged  in  a reverse  and  succession  to  that  of  the  usual 
prism,  and  which  was  visible  in  its  companion.  A night  of  glo- 
rious moonshine  followed,  with  a moderate  breeze,  and  we  were 
supposed  to  pass  the  line  about  1 1 o’clock  A.  M. 

September  21. — Nothing  remarkable  occurred  on  the  20th. 
This  morning  we  had  divine  service,  with  awning  up,  and  the 
crew  seated,  the  first  time  that  this  has  been  possible  since  we 
passed  the  Cape.  The  weather  continues  fine,  but  very  hot.  In 
the  evening  we  were  apprehended  to  be  about  90  miles  from  the 
coast  of  Ceylon,  and  a trick  was  attempted  on  the  passengers, 
which  is  on  such  occasions  not  unusual,  by  sprinkling  the  rail  of 
the  entrance  port  with  some  fragrant  substance,  and  then  asking 
them  if  they  do  not  perceive  the  spicy  gales  of  Ceylon  ? Un- 
luckily no  oil  of  cinnamon  was  found  on  shipboard,  though 
anxiously  hunted  for,  d^ndi peppermint  water ^ the  only  succedaneum 
in  the  doctor’s  stores,  was  not  what  we  expected  to  find,  and  there- 
fore did  not  deceive  us.  Yet,  though  we  were  now  too  far  off  to 
catch  the  odours  of  land,  it  is,  as  we  are  assured,  perfectly  true, 
that  such  odours  are  perceptible  to  a very  considerable  distance. 
In  the  straits  of  Malacca,  a smell  like  that  of  a hawthorn  hedge 
is^  commonly  experienced ; and  from  Ceylon,  at  thirty  or  forty 
miles,  under  certain  circumstances,  a yet  more  agreeable  scent  is 
inhaled. 

September  24. — A violent  squall  came  on  this  morning  about 
seven  o’clock.  Happily  Captain  Manning  foresaw  it  from  an 
uneasy  sensation  in  the  ship’s  motion,  and  took  in  all  possible 
sail,  to  the  surprise  of  his  officers,  who  saw  no  reason  for  the 
measure.  He  was,  however,  only  just  in  time,  for  a moment 
after,  we  were  laid  nearly  on  our  beam  ends,  and  had  we  been 
carrying  any  thing  like  our  previous  sail,  must  have  been  com- 
pletely dismasted.  Tremendous  rain  followed,  with  some  thunder 
and  lightning,  and  continued  the  greater  part  of  the  day.  Towards 
evening  the  rain  ceased,  and  the  wind  became  light.  The  weather 
was,  however,  thick  and  hazy,  and  1 never  saw  so  much  lightning 


36 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


as  continued  to  flash  on  every  side  of  us  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  night.  Several  of  the  passengers  think  this  symp- 
tomatic of  the  change  of  the  Monsoon,  the  usual  period  of  which, 
indeed,  is  not  till  the  middle  of  next  month  ; but  it  sometimes  ter- 
minates prematurely,  even  as  early  as  our  present  date.  This 
possibility  has  a little  damped  the  spirits  of  our  party,  since,  though 
there  are,  1 believe,  several  among  us  who  will  be  almost  sorry 
when  our  voyage  is  at  an  end,  none  of  us  can  look  forward  with- 
out disappointment  to  the  prospect  of  the  indefinite  delay,  the 
uncertain  weather,  and  probable  hurricanes  to  which  this  event 
would  expose  us.  No  observation  could  be  taken  this  day  (Sep- 
tember 25.)  During  the  early  part  of  the  morning  we  lay  com- 
pletely becalmed,  surrounded  with  very  awful  and  magnificent 
thunder-storms,  which  swept  past  us  in  all  directions,  but  without 
coming  nigh  us.  A water-spout  was  also  seen,  but  at  a distance. 
At  length  a light  breeze  arose,  but  from  the  N.  W.,  an  unfavour- 
able quarter.  We  were,  however,  able  to  get  on  with  it  in  a 
tolerable,  though  not  very  direct  course  : in  the  evening  it  drew 
more  aft,  and,  consequently,  resumed  in  part  its  proper  character 
of  S.  W.  Monsoon,  though  so  light  as  to  do  little  good.  It  is 
probable,  however,  that  the  slow  progress  of  last  night  may  have 
been  a dispensation  of  great  kindness  towards  us,  since  the  ofli- 
cers  are  of  opinion  that  a very  severe  storm  has  taken  place  in 
our  present  latitude,  within  the  last  few  hours.  An  uncomfort- 
able swell  prevails,  indicating  something  of  the  sort,  and  the 
number  of  insects  and  land-birds  around  us  seem  to  imply  a hard 
gale  to  have  driven  them  so  far  out  to  sea.  Among  the  insects 
several  dragon-flies  appear,  precisely  like  those  of  England,  and 
some  very  beautiful  butterflies  and  winged  grasshoppers.  A tur- 
tle-dove and  two  hawks  perched  on  the  rigging,  all  so  much 
fatigued,  as  that  the  latter  showed  no  desire  to  molest  the  former. 
Tlie  day  beautifully  clear,  but  intensely  hot.  Both  to-day  and 
yesterday  the  fragrance  of  the  land,  or  at  least  the  peculiar  smell 
which  denotes  its  neighbourhood,  was  perceived  by  the  experien- 
ced organs  of  Captain  Manning  and  his  officers;  but  I could  not 
catch  any  thing  in  the  breeze  more  than  usual.  We  are  all  now 
in  good  spirits  again,  and  the  officers,  more  particularly,  rejoice 
in  having  ascertained  the  latitude  correctly,  a 'circumstance 
agreeable  at  all  times,  but  especially  desirable  when  about  to 
approach  a dangerous  coast,  at  a time  of  the  year  when  the  sun 
and  stars  are  frequently  obscured  for  weeks  together. 

Scplemher  27. — At  eleven  this  day  the  Pagoda  of  Juggernaut, 
and  the  two  known  by  the  name  of  the  Black  Pagodas,  were  visi- 
ble from  tlie  mast-head,  bearing  N.  W.  about  eighteen  miles,  and 
only  distinguishable,  on  this  flat  coast,  from  sails,  by  those  who 
were  previously  aware  of  their  forms  and  vicinity;  three  or  four 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


37 


vessels  were  seen  at  the  same  time,  supposed  to  be  small  craft 
engaged  in  the  coasting  trade.  Our  lat.  at  twelve  was  19°  30'. 
We  had  light  wind  with  occasional  squalls  till  twelve;  after  which 
a dead  calm  with  a heavy  and  uncomfortable  swell.  I have  been 
endeavouring,  for  these  last  two  days,  to  compose  a sermon,  hut 
my  head  aches,  and  my  feelings  are  very  unfavourable  to  serious 
mental  exertion.  It  is  some  comfort  to  be  assured  that  very  few 
days  in  India,  are  so  severe  as  the  weather  which  we  now  have, 
and  our  confined  situation  on  ship-board  makes  us  feel  the  heat 
more  oppressive  than  we  should  otherwise  do.  The  calm  con- 
tinued all  day,  and  the  sea-breeze  which  arose  at  night,  was  by  far 
too  feeble  to  carry  us  on  against  a heavy  swell  and  current  from 
the  N.  E. 

Sunday  28. — Found  ourselves  to  the  M^estward  of  our  late  sta- 
tion by  a good  many  miles,  and  drifting  in  to  the  Pagoda  of  Jug- 
gernaut. We  had  prayers  as  usual,  and  I preached,  I hope,  my 
last  sermon  on  ship-board  during  the  present  voyage.  Afterwards 
we  cast  anchor  in  twenty-five  fathom  water,  with  Juggernaut 
about  fifteen  miles  to  the  N.  W.  visible  with  the  naked  eye  from 
deck,  and  very  distinctly  so  with  a glass.  Its  appearance  strongly 
reminds  me  of  the  old  Russian  churches.  To  the  S.  W.  of  us,  at 
a considerably  greater  distance,  are  seen  two  small  hills,  said  to 
be  near  Ganjan. — 

“ Procul  obscures  colies,  humilemque  videmus 

Italiam  1”  \ 

About  three  o’clock  a little  breeze  sprung  up  from  the  S.  W.  just 
enough  to  enable  us  to  stem  the  current.  We  weighed  anchor, 
and  crept  slowly  along  the  coast  E.  by  N.  The  evening  was 
cool  and  pleasant,  and  we  derived  some  amusement  and  mental 
occupation  from  watching  the  different  objects  which  we  passed. 

' The  immense  hostile  current  and  swell  were  much  against  us,  and 
the  night  grew  by  degrees  squally  and  rainy.  The  captain  and 
chief  mate  were  up  nearly  all  night  and  very  anxious.  The 
soundings  showed  a bottom  of  coarse  sand  and  a little  gravel. 

September  29. — In  the  morning  we  had  the  mortification  to  find 
ourselves  still  in  sight  of  Juggernaut  and  the  Black  Pagoda,  and 
in  fact  very  little  advanced  from  our  station  at  day-break  the 
preceding  day.  The  breeze  was  quite  incompetent  to  contend 
with  the  swell  and  current  from  the  N.  E.,  and  all  which  we  could 
comfort  ourselves  with  was,  that  we  did  not  lose  ground,  nor,  as 
yesterday,  drift  to  the  westward.  About  noon  a light  breeze 
again  sprung  up  from  the  S.  E.,  and  we  now  advanced  slowly  to 
the  N.,  so  as  to  see  the  Black  Pagoda  more  clearly,  and  even  to 
distinguish  the  coco-palms  on  the  coast.  Several  vessels  were 


38 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA. 


under  the  shore,  one  brig,  some  sloops,  and  a kind  of  galliot  of 
singular  rig,  besides  some  boats  with  large  square  sails.  The  day 
was  very  pleasant  and  cool,  and  the  night  which  followed  beauti- 
ful. Our  breeze  was  good,  and  our  progress  would  have  been 
excellent,  but  for  the  unfortunate  current.  As  it  was,  after 
another  anxious  night  of  unceasing  sounding  and  exertion  to  Cap- 
tain Manning  and  his  officers,  we  were  only  advanced,  at  six  in 
the  morning  of  the  30th,  about  forty  miles,  or  not  quite  to  the 
parallel  of  False  Cape  ; yet  even  this  was  considerable  gain,  and 
would  have  made  us  very  happy,  had  not  a dismal  accident  over- 
clouded all  such  feelings.  About  ten  o’clock,  as  I was  writing 
these  lines  in  the  cuddy,  a cry  was  heard,  “ Davy  is  overboard 
at  first  1 thought  they  said  “ the  baby,”  and  ran  to  the  mizen  chains 
in  a sort  of  Confused  agony,  tugging  at  my  coat  buttons  and  my 
sleeves  as  I went,  with  the  intention  of  leaping  in  after  her  ; when 
there,  however,  I found  that  one  of  the  poor  boys  apprenticed  to 
Captain  Manning  by  the  Marine  Society,  had  fallen  from  the 
mizen-gaff,  and  that  one  of  the  midshipmen,  Gower  not  Davy^  as 
at  first  supposed,  was  knocked  over  by  him  in  his  fall ; the  boy 
only  rose  for  a few  moments  and  sunk  forever,  but  the  midship- 
man was  picked  up  when  almost  exhausted.  It  was  pleasing  to 
see  the  deep  interest  and  manly  sorrow  excited'  by  this  sad  ac- 
cident in  all  on  board.  For  my  own  part,  I w^as  so  much  stunned 
by  the  shock  of  my  first  mistake,  that  I felt,  and  still  feel  a sort  of 
sick  and  indistinct  horror,  which  has  prevented  me  from  sympa- 
thizing so  deeply  as  1 otherwise  must  have  done,  in  the  melan- 
choly end  of  the  poor  lad  thus  suddenly  called  away. 

The  coast  was  so  low,  that  we  could  not  discover  any  tokens  of 
it,  and  were  compelled  to  feel  our  way  by  soundings  every  half 
hour,  keeping  in  from  sixteen  to  twenty-nine  fathom.  All  this 
part  of  Orixa,  as  1 am  assured  by  Major  Sackville,  who  has  him- 
self surveyed  the  coast,  is  very  ill  laid  down  in  most  charts.  It  is 
a large  delta,  formed  by  the  mouths  of  the  Maha-Nuddee  and 
other  rivers,  the  northernmost  of  which  insulates  Cape  Palmiras, 
and  the  remainder  flow  into  what  is  called  Cojam  Bay,  but  which 
is  dry  at  low-water;  so  that  the  real  line  of  coast  is  nearly  straight 
from  Juggernaut  to  Palmiras.  The  night  was  fine  and  starlight, 
and  we  crept  along,  sounding  every  half-fiour  in  from  seventeen 
to  twenty-three  fathoms  till  after  midnight,  when  we  entered  sud- 
denly into  a rapid  stream  of  smooth  water,  which  carried  us  con- 
siderably to  the  east.  I happened  to  go  on  deck  during  this  watch, 
and  was  much  pleased  and  interested  with  the  sight.  It  was  ex- 
actly like  a river,  about  half  a mile  broad,  smooth,  dimply,  and 
whirling,  bordered  on  each  side  by  a harsh,  dark,  rippling  sea, 
such  as  we  had  hitherto  contended  with,  and  which  obviously  still 
ran  in  a contiary  direction.  It  was,  I have  no  doubt,  from  Major 


JOURNAL  OF  A VOYAGE  TO  INDIA.  39 

Sackville’s  sketch,  the  fresh  water  of  the  Maha-Nuddee,  which 
being  lighter,  specifically,  than  the  ocean,  floated  on  its  surface, 
and  which  appeared  to  flow  into  the  sea  at  right  angles  to  the 
Ganges.  I sometimes  thought  of  Robinson  Crusoe’s  eddy — some- 
times of  the  wondrous  passage  described  in  Lord  Erskine’s  Ar- 
mata,  but  was  not  the  less  struck  with  the  providential  assistance 
which  it  afibrded  us.  At  five  o’clock  in  the  morning  of  October  1 , 
we  were  said  to  be  in  lat.  20°  38';  and  as  the  wind  was  getting 
light,  anchored  soon  after. 

The  fresh  water  of  the  Maha-Nuddee  still  remained  flowing  on 
the  surface,  and  nearly  in  a N.  E.  direction,  but  too  weak  and 
too  shallow  to  contend  with  the  mighty  Ganges,  which  ran  like  a 
mill-stream  at  a fathom  or  two  underneath,  and  against  which 
nothing  but  a very  powerful  gale  could  contend.  Our  hope  is, 
therefore,  in  the  flood-tide,  and  in  the  smallness  of  the  distance, 
which  we  have  yet  to  pass  before  we  get  into  pilot  water.  At 
twelve,  encouraged  by  a little  increase  of  breeze,,  we  weighed 
anchor  again,  the  passengers  (most  of  them)  lending  their  aid,  and 
thus  successfully  and  speedily  accomplished  it.  All  sails  that 
were  applicable  were  set,  and  the  vessel,  to  our  great  joy,  an- 
swered her. helm,  and  evidently  made  some  little  way.  This,  by 
degrees,  accelerated,  and  by  three  o’clock  we  were  going  along 
merrily.  Captain  Manning  burned  blue  lights,  and  hoisted  a 
lamp  at  his  mizen-gatf,  as  a signal  to  any  pilot  who  might  be  in 
our  neighbourhood.  The  signal  was  answered  by  several  vessels 
obviously  at  no  great  distance,  but  the  doubt  remained  whether 
any  of  these  were  pilots,  or  whether  they  were  merely  like  our- 
selves, in  search  of  one.  Captain  Manning,  however,  sent  his 
cutter  with  one  of  the  officers  and  ten  men  to  that  light  which 
was  most  brilliant,  and  the  bearing  of  which  appeared  to  tally 
with  the  situation  of  a brig  which  he  had  observed. 

At^length  about  eleven  o’clock,  a vessel  was  really  seen  ap- 
proaching, and,  on  being  hailed,  answered  “ the  Cecilia  pilot 
schooner.”  The  cutter  soon  afterwards  came  to  our  side,  with 
one  of  the  branch  pilots  on  board.  Sir  H.  Blosset,  I heard  with 
much  pain,  died  five  weeks  after  his  arrival  in  India,  of  an  asth- 
matic complaint,  to  which  he  had  been  long  subject.  The  pilot 
spoke  much  of  the  degree  to  which  he  was  regretted,  and  of  the 
influence  which,  even  in  that  small  time,  he  had  acquired  over 
the  natives,  who  were  delighted  with  the  pains  which  he  took  to 
acquire  their  language. 

About  seven  in  the  evening  of  October  the  3d,  we  were  safely 
anchored  in  Saugor  roads. 


NARRATIVE 


OF 


A JOURNEY,  Ar. 


CHAPTER  I. 

saugor:  tigers — country  boats — arab  ships — village:  Maldivian 

VESSELS GARDEN  REACH APPROACH  TO  CALCUTTA ARRIVAL  : OLD 

GOVERNMENT  HOUSE  I NATIVE  HOUSEHOLD. 

At  day-break  of  October  the  4th,  we  had  a good  view  of  the 
Island  of  Saugor,  a perfectly  flat  and  swampy  shore,  with  scat- 
tered tall  trees  dark  like  firs,  and  jungle  about  the  height  of  young 
coppice  wood,  of  a very  fresh  and  vivid  green.  With  a large 
glass  I could  distinguish  something  like  deer  grazing  or  lying 
down  amid  the  swampy  grass,  and  also  some  ruinous  cottages  and 
barn-like  buildings. 

' These  are  the  remains  of  a village  begun  by  a joint  company, 
who  undertook  to  cut  down  the  thickets  and  reclaim  the  marshes 
of  Saugor,  a few  years  ago.  They  found,  however,  that  as  the 
woods  were  cut  down  on  this  side,  the  sea  encroached,  the  sandy 
beach  not  having  sufficient  tenacity  of  itself  to  resist  its  invasions  ; 
and  the  land  was  again  abandoned  to  its  wild  deer  and  its  tigers  ; 
for  these  last  it  has  always  been  infamous,  and  the  natives,  I 
understand,  regard  it  with  such  dread,  that  it  is  almost  impossible 
to  induce  them  to  approach  the  wilder  parts  of  its  shore,  even  in 
boats,  as  instances  are  said  to  be  by  no  means  infrequent  of 
tigers  swimming  off  from  the  coast  to  a considerable  distance. 
This  danger  is,  probably,  like  all  others,  over-rated,  but  it  is  a 
fortunate  circumstance  that  some  such  terror  hangs  over  Saug-or, 
VoL.  1.— G 


42 


COUNTRY  BOATS. 


to  deter  idle  seamen  and  young  officers  from  venturing  on  shoot- 
ing excursions,  so  much  as  they  otherwise  would  do,  on  a shore 
so  dreadfully  unwholesome  as  all  these  marshy  islets  are,  under 
a sun,  which  even  now  intensely  fierce,  is  standing  over  our 
heads  “ in  a hot  and  copper  sky.”  The  stream  of  cofifee-coloured 
water  by  which  we  are  surrounded,  sufficiently  indicates  by  its 
tint  the  inundations  which  have  supplied  it. 

One  of  the  first  specimens  of  the  manners  of  the  country  which 
have  fallen  under  our  notice,  has  been  a human  corpse,  slowly 
floating  past,  according  to  the  well-known  custom  of  the  Hindoos. 
About  1 2 o’clock  some  boats  came  on  board  with  fish  and  fruit, 
manned  by  Hindoos  from  the  coast. 

They  were  all  small  slender  men,  extremely  black,  but  well 
made,  with  good  countenances  and  fine  features, — certainly  a 
handsome  race ; the  fruits  were  shaddocks,  plantains,  and  coco- 
nuts, none  good  of  their  kind,  as  we  were  told ; the  shaddock 
resembles  a melon  externally,  but  is  in  fact  a vast  orange,  with  a 
rind  of  two  inches  thick,  the  pulp  much  less  juicy  than  a common 
orange,  and  with  rather  a bitter  flavour,  certainly  a fruit  which 
would  be  little  valued  in  England,  but  which  in  this  burning 
Weather  I thought  rather  pleasant  and  refreshing.  The  plantain 
grows  in  bunches,  with  its  stalks  arranged  side  by  side ; the  fruit 
is  shaped  like  a kidney  potatoe,  covered  with  a loose  dusky  skin, 
which  peals  off  easily  with  the  fingers.  The  pulp  is  not  unlike 
an  over-ripe  pear. 

While  we  were  marketing  with  these  poor  people,  several 
large  boats  from  the  Maidive  Islands  passed,  which  were  pointed 
out  to  me  by  the  pilot  as  objects  of  curiosity,  not  often  coming  to 
Calcutta ; they  have  one  mast,  a very  large  square  mainsail,  and 
one  top-sail,  are  built,  the  more  solid  parts  of  coco-wood,  the 
lighter  of  bamboo,  and  sail  very  fast  and  near  the  wind ; each 
carries  from  30  to  50  men,  who  are  all  sharers  in  the  vessel  and 
her  cargo,  which  consists  of  cowries,  dried  fish,  coco-nut  oil,  and 
the  coir  or  twine  made  from  the  fibres  of  the  same  useful  tree  ; 
and  each  has  a small  cabin  to  himself. 

Several  boats  of  a larger  dimension  soon  after  came  along- 
side ; one  was  decked,  with  two  masts,  a bowsprit,  and  rigged 
like  a schooner  without  topsails.  The  master  and  crew  of  this 
last  were  taller  and  finer  men  than  those  whom  we  had  seen 
before ; the  former  had  a white  turban  wreathed  round  a red  cap, 
a white  short  shirt  without  sleeves,  and  a silver  armlet  a little 
above  the  elbow , the  crew  were  chiefly  naked,  except  a cloth 
round  the  loins ; the  colour  of  all  was  the  darkest  shade  of 
antique  bronze,  and  together  with  the  elegant  forms  and  well- 
turned  limbs  of  many  among  them,  gave  the  spectator  a perfect 
impression  of  Grecian  statues  of  that  metal;  in  stature  and  appa- 


NATIVES. 


43 


rent  strength  they  were  certainly  much  inferior  to  the  generality 
of  our  ship’s  company. 

Two  observations  struck  me  forcibly ; first,  that  the  deep 
bronze  tint  is  more  naturally  agreeable  to  the  human  eye  than 
the  fair  skins  of  Europe,  since  we  are  not  displeased  with  it  even 
in  the  first  instance,  while  it  is  well  known  that  to  them  a fair 
complexion  gives  the  idea  of  ill  health,  and  of  that  sort  of 
deformity  which  in  our  eyes  belongs  to  an  Albino.  There  is, 
indeed,  something  in  a Negro  which  requires  long  habit  to  recon- 
cile the  eye  to  him ; but  for  this  the  features  and  the  hair,  far 
more  than  the  colour,  are  answerable.  The  second  observation 
was,  how  entirely  the  idea  of  indelicacy,  which  would  naturally 
belong  to  such  figures  as  those  now  around  us  if  they  were  white, 
is  prevented  by  their  being  of  a different  colour  from  ourselves. 
So  much  are  we  children  of  association  and  habit,  and  so  instinct- 
ively and  immediately  do  our  feelings  adapt  themselves  to  a total 
change  of  circumstances;  it  is  the  partial  and  inconsistent  change 
only  which  affects  us. 

The  whole  river,  and  the  general  character  of  this  shore  and 
muddy  stream,  remind  me  strongly  at  this  moment  of  the  Don, 
between  Tcherkask  and  Asof, — and  Kedgeree,  a village  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river  from  Saugor,  if  it  had  but  a church, 
would  not  be  unlike  Oxai,  the  residence  of  the  Attaman  Platoff. 

Several  boats  again  came  on  board  us  ; in  one  of  which  was  a 
man  dressed  in  muslin,  who  spoke  good  English,  and  said  he 
was  a Sircar,"^  come  down  in  quest  of  employment,  if  any  of  the 
officers  on  board  would  entrust  their  investments  to  him,  or  if 
any  body  chose  to  borrow  money  at  12  percent.  In  appearance 
and  manners  he  was  no  bad  specimen  of  the  low  usurers  who 
frequent  almost  all  seaports.  While  we  were  conversing  with 
him,  a fowl  fell  overboard,  and  his  crew  were  desired  to  hand  it 
up  again ; the  naked  rowers  refused,  as  it  is  considered  impure 
to  touch  feathers ; but  the  Sircar  was  less  scrupulous,  and  gave 
it  up  at  the  gangway.  A Panchway,  or  passage  boat,  succeeded 
him,  whose  crew  offered  their  services  for  15  rupees  to  carry 
any  passengers  to  Calcutta,  a distance  of  above  100  miles.  This 
was  a very  characteristic  and  interesting  vessel,  large  and  broad, 
shaped  like  a snuffer  dish ; a deck  fore  and  aft,  and  the  middle 
covered  with  a roof  of  palm  branches,  over  which  again  was 
lashed  a coarse  cloth,  the  whole  forming  an  excellent  shade  from 
the  sun;  but,  as  I should  apprehend,  intolerably  close.  The 
“ Serang,”  or  master,  stood  on  the  little  after-deck,  steering  with 
a long  oar ; another  man,  a little  before  him,  had  a similar  oar 
on  the  starboard  quarter ; six  rowers  were  seated  cross-legged  on 


A native  agent,  as  well  as  a inoney-Iender. — Ed. 


44 


PASSAGE  BOATS. 


the  deck  upon  the  tilt,  and  plied  their  short  paddles  with  much 
dexterity ; not,  however,  as  paddles  usually  are  plied,  but  in  the 
manner  of  oars,  resting  them  instead  of  on  rullocks,  on  bamboos, 
which  rose  upright  from  the  sides.  A large  long  sail  of  thin 
transparent  sackcloth  in  three  pieces,  very  loosely  tacked  to 
each  other,  completed  the  equipment.  The  rowers  were  all 
naked  except  the  “Cummerbund,”  or  sash;  the  steersman  indeed 
had  in  addition  a white  cap,  and  a white  cloth  loosely  flung  like 
a scarf  over  one  shoulder:  the  whole  offered  a group  which 
might  have  belonged  to  the  wildest  of  the  Polynesian  islands. 
Several  of  these  Panchways  were  now  around  us,  the  whole 
scene  affording  to  an  European  eye  a picture  of  very  great  singu- 
larity and  interest.  One  of  the  Serangs  had  a broad  umbrella 
thatched  with  palm  leaves,  which  he  contrived  to  rest  on  his 
shoulder  while  he  steered  his  canoe,  which  differed  from  the 
others  in  having  a somewhat  higher  stern.  The  whole  appear- 
ance of  these  boats  is  dingy  and  dirty,  more  so  I believe  than  the 
reality. 

We  were  now  approaching  the  side  of  the  river  opposite 
Kedgeree  : here  all  likeness  to  the  Don  disappeared,  and  nothing 
met  the  eye  but  a dismal  and  unbroken  line  of  thick,  black,  wood 
and  thicket,  apparently  impenetrable  and  interminable,  which  one 
might  easily  imagine  to  be  the  habitation  of  every  thing  monstrous, 
disgusting,  and  dangerous,  from  the  tiger  and  the  cobra  di  capello 
down  to  the  scorpion  and  musquito — from  the  thunder  storm  to 
the  fever.  We  had  seen,  the  night  before,  the  lightnings  flash 
incessantly  and  most  majestically  from  this  quarter ; and  what  we 
now  saw  was  not  ill  fitted  for  a nursery  of  such  storms  as  Southey 
describes  as  prevailing  in  his  Padalon.  The  seamen  and  officers 
spoke  of  this  shore  with  horror,  as  the  grave  of  all  who  were  so 
unfortunate  as  to  remain  many  days  in  its  neighbourhood;  and 
even  under  our  present  brilliant  sun,  it  required  no  great  stretch 
of  fancy  to  picture  feverish  exhalations  rising  from  every  part  of  it. 
As  we  drew  nearer  to  the  Sunderbunds  their  appearance  improved; 
the  woods  assumed  a greater  variety  of  green  and  of  shade ; 
several  round-topped  trees,  and  some  low  palms,  were  seen  among 
them,  and  a fresh  vegetable  fragrance  was  wafted  from  the  shore. 
The  stream  is  here  intense,  and  its  struggle  with  the  spring-tide 
raises  waves  of  a dark-coloured  water,  which  put  me  in  mind  of 
the  river  where  Dante  found  the  spirit  of  Filippo  Argenti.  I 
looked  with  much  interest  on  the  first  coco  palms  1 saw,  yet  they 
rather  disappointed  me.  Their  forms  are  indeed  extremely  grace- 
ful, but  their  verdure  is  black  and  funereal,  and  they  have  some- 
thing the  appearance  of  the  plumes  of  feathers  which  are  carried 
before  a hearse.  Their  presence,  however,  announced  a more 
open  and  habitable  country.  The  jungle  receded  from  the  shore, 


NATIVES. 


45 


and  its  place  was  supplied  by  extremely  green  fields,  like  mead- 
ows, which  were  said  to  be  of  rice,  interspersed  with  small  woods 
of  round-headed  trees,  and  villages  of  huts,  thatched,  and  with 
their  mud  walls  so  low,  that  they  looked  like  hay-stacks. 

We  anchored  a few  miles  short  of  Diamond  Harbour.  The 
current  and  ebb-tide  together  ran  at  a rate  really  tremendous, 
amounting,  as  our  pilot  said,  to  10  and  11  knots  an  hour.  We 
were  surrounded  soon  after  our  anchoring  by  several  passage 
vessels  ; among  these  was  a beautiful  ship  of  about  250  tons, 
with  the  Company’s  Jack,  and  a long  pendant,  which  we  w^ere 
told  was  the  Government  yacht,  sent  down  for  our  accommo- 
dation. 

During  this  day  and  the  next  I made  several  fresh  observations 
on  the  persons  and  manners  of  the  natives,  by  whom  we  were 
surrounded.  I record  them,  though  I may  hereafter  see  reason  to 
distrust  in  some  slight  degree  their  accuracy.  I had  observed  a 
thread  hung  round  the  necks  of  the  fishermen  who  came  first  on 
board,  and  now  found  that  it  was  an  ornament  worn  in  honour  of 
some  idol.  The  caste  of  fishermen  does  not  rank  high,  though  fish 
is  considered  as  one  of  the  purest  and  most  lawful  kinds  of  food. 
Nothing,  indeed,  seems  more  generally  mistaken  than  the  supposed 
prohibition  of  animal  food  to  the  Hindoos.  It  is  not  from  any 
abstract  desire  to  spare  the  life  of  living  creatures,  since  fish  would 
be  a violation  of  this  principle  as  well  as  beef ; but  from  other 
notions  of  the  hallowed  or  the  polluted  nature  of  particular  viands. 
Thus  many  Brahmins  eat  both  fish  and  kid.  The  Rajpoots,  be- 
sides these,  eat  mutton,  venison,  or  goat’s  flesh.  Some  castes  may 
eat  any  thing  but  fowls,  beef,  or  pork  ; while  pork  is  with  others 
a favourite  diet,  and  beef  only  is  prohibited.  Intoxicating  liquors 
are  forbidden  by  their  religion  ; but  this  is  disregarded  by  great 
numbers  both  of  high  and  low  caste ; and  intoxication  is  little 
less  common,  as  I am  assured,  among  the  Indians,  than  among 
Europeans.  Nor  is  it  true  that  Hindoos  are  much  more  healthy 
than  Europeans.  Liver-complaints,  and  indurations  of  the  spleen, 
are  very  common  among  them,  particularly  with  those  in  easy 
circumstances,  to  which  their  immense  consumption  of  “ Ghee,” 
or  clarified  butter,  must  greatly  contribute.  To  cholera  morbus 
they  are  much  more  liable  than  the  whites,  and  there  are  some 
kinds  of  fever  which  seem  peculiar  to  the  native  race. 

The  great  difference  in  colour  between  different  natives  struck 
me  much : of  the  crowd  by  whom  we  were  surrounded,  some  were 
black  as  Negroes,  others  merely  copper-coloured,  and  others  little 
darker  than  the  Tunisines  whom  1 have  seen  at  Liverpool.  Mr. 
Mill,  the  principal  of  Bishop’s  College,  who,  with  Mr.  Corrie,  one 
of  the  chaplains  in  the  Company’s  service,  had  come  down  to  meet 
me,  and  who  has  seen  more  of  India  than  most  men,  tells  me  that 


46 


ARAB  VESSELS. 


he  cannot  account  for  this  difference,  which  is  general  throughout 
the  country,  and  every  where  striking.  It  is  not  merely  the  differ- 
ence of  exposure,  since  this  variety  of  tint  is  visible  in  the  fisher- 
men who  are  naked  all  alike.  Nor  does  it  depend  on  caste,  since 
very  high  caste  Brahmins  are  sometimes  black,  while  Pariahs  are 
comparatively  fair.  It  seems,  therefore,  to  be  an  accidental  dif- 
ference, like  that  of  light  and  dark  complexions  in  Europe,  though 
where  so  much  of  the  body  is  exposed  to  sight,  it  becomes  more 
striking  here  than  in  our  own  country. 

At  six  o’clock  in  the  evening  of  October  the  6th,  we  went  on 
board  the  yacht,  which  we  found  a beautiful  vessel,  with  large 
and  convenient  cabins,  fitted  up  in  a very  elegant  and  comfortable 
manner ; and  slept  for  the  first  time  under  musquito  curtains,  and 
on  a mattrass  of  coco-nut  coir,  which  though  very  hard  is  cool  and 
elastic.  The  greater  part  of  this  day  was  occupied  in  ecclesias- 
tical business,  so  that  I had  less  opportunity  for  observing  the 
country  and  people  around  us.  The  former  improves  as  we 
ascend  the  river,  and  is  now  populous  and  highly  cultivated.  On 
the  7th  we  left  Diamond  harbour,  a place  interesting  as  being  the 
first  possession  of  the  East  India  Company  in  Bengal ; but  of  bad 
reputation  for  its  unhealthiness,  the  whole  country  round  being 
swampy.  Many  ships  were  lying  there.  1 saw  no  town,  except 
a few  native  huts,  some  ruinous  warehouses,  now  neglected  and 
in  decay,  and  an  ugly  brick  dingy  looking  house  with  a flag-staff, 
belonging  to  the  harbour  master.  There  are,  however,  many 
temptations  for  seamen  among  the  native  huts,  several  of  them 
being  spirit  houses,  where  a hot  unwholesome  toddy  is  sold.  We 
proceeded  with  a light  breeze  up  the  river,  which  still  presents  a 
considerable  uniformity  of  prospect,  though  of  a richer  and  more 
pleasing  kind  than  we  had  seen  before.  The  banks  abound  with 
villages,  interspersed  with  rice-fields,  plantations  of  coco-palms, 
and  groves  of  trees  of  a considerable  height,  in  colour  and  foliage 
resembling  the  elm.  We  have  seen  one  or  two  Pagodas,  dingy 
buildings  with  one  or  more  high  towers,  like  glass-houses. 

The  Hooghly  is  still  of  vast  width  and  rapidity.  Our  ship  tacks 
in  it  as  in  a sea,  and  we  meet  many  larger  vessels  descending. 
One  of  these  was  pointed  out  to  me  as  an  Arab,  of  completely 
European  build,  except  that  her  stern  was  overloaded  with  open 
galleries  and  verandahs,  with  three  very  tall  masts,  and  carrying 
more  sail  than  English  merchant  ships  generally  do.  She  had 
apparently  a good  many  guns,  was  crowded  with  men,  and  had 
every  appearance  of  serving,  as  occasion  required,  for  piracy  as 
well  as  traflic.  Her  “ Rais,”  or  master,  had  a loose  purple  dress 
on,  and  her  crew  I thought  were  of  fairer  complexions  than  the 
Hindoos.  These  last  perform  their  evolutions  with  a great  deal 
of  noise,  and  talk  most  vociferously : but  the  Arabs  excelled  them 


MOHAMMEDAT>J  SAILORS. 


47 


in  both  these  particulars.  They  shifted  their  sails  with  a clamour 
as  if  they  were  going  to  board  an  enemy.  The  old  clumsy  Arab 
Dow,  mentioned  by  Neibuhr,  is  now  seldom  seen  ; they  buy  many 
ships  from  Europeans  ; they  build  tolerable  ones  themselves,  and 
even  their  grabs,  which  still  have  an  elongated  bow,  instead  of  a 
bowsprit,  are  described  as  often  very  fine  vessels  and  good  sailers. 
In  short,  they  are  gradually  becoming  a formidable  maritime 
people,  and  are  not  unlikely  to  give  farther  and  greater  trouble 
in  the  Indian  Seas  to  ourselves  and  other  European  nations. 

Accidents  often  happen  in  this  great  river,  and  storms  are 
frequent  and  violent.  The  river  is  now  unusually  high,  and  the 
Brahmins  have  prophesied  that  it  will  rise  fourteen  cubits  higher, 
and  drown  all  Calcutta  ; they  might  as  well  have  said  all  Bengal, 
since  the  province  has  scarely  any  single  eminence  so  high  above 
the  river.  Whenever  we  see  the  banks  a few  feet  higher  than 
usual,  we  are  told  it  is  the  dam  of  a “ tank,”  or  large  artificial 
pond.  The  country  is  evidently  most  fertile  and  populous,  and 
the  whole  prospect  of  river  and  shore  is  extremely  animated  and 
interesting.  The  vessel  in  which  we  are,  is  commanded  by  one 
of  the  senior  pilots  of  the  Company’s  service,  who,  with  his  mate, 
are  the  only  Europeans  on  board ; the  crew,  forty  in  number,  are 
Mohammedans,  middle-sized,  active  and  vigorous,  though  slender. 
Their  uniform  is  merely  a white  turban,  of  a singularly  flat  shape, 
a white  shirt,  and  trowsers,  with  a shawl  wrapped  round  their 
hips.  I was  amused  to-day  by  seeing  them  preparing  and  eating 
their  dinner,  seated  in  circles  on  the  deck,  with  an  immense  dish 
of  rice,  and  a little  sauce-boat  of  currie  well  seasoned  with  garlic, 
set  between  every  three  or  four  men ; the  quantity  which  they 
eat  is  very  great,  and  completely  disproves  the  common  opinion 
that  rice  is  a nourishing  food.  On  the  contrary,  1 am  convinced 
that  a fourth  part  of  the  bulk  of  potatoes  would  satisfy  the  hunger 
of  the  most  robust  and  laborious.  Potatoes  are  becoming  gradu- 
ally abundant  in  Bengal ; at  first  they  were  here,  as  elsewhere, 
unpopular.  Now  they  are  much  liked,  and  are  spoken  of  as  the 
best  thing  which  the  country  has  ever  received  from  its  Euro- 
pean masters.  At  dinner  these  people  sit,  not  like  the  Turks, 
but  with  the  knees  drawn  up  like  monkeys. 

Their  eating  and  drinking  vessels  are  of  copper,  very  bright 
and  well  kept,  and  their  whole  appearance  cleanly  and  decent, 
their  countenances  more  animated,  but  less  mild  and  gentle  than 
the  Hindoos.  They  do  not  seem  much  troubled  with  the  preju- 
dices of  Mohammedanism,  yet  there  are  some  services  which  they 
obviously  render  to  their  masters  with  reluctance.  The  captain 
of  the  yacht  ordered  one  of  them,  at  my  desire,  to  lay  hold  of 
our  spaniel ; the  man  made  no  difficulty,  but  afterwards  rubbed 
his  hand  against  the  side  of  the  ship  with  an  expression  of  disgust 


48 


VILLAGE. 


which  annoyed  me,  and  I determined  to  spare  their  feelings  in 
future  as  much  as  possible. 

We  had  hoped  to  reach  Fulta,  where  there  is  an  English 
hotel,  before  night ; but  the  wind  being  foul,  were  obliged  to 
anchor  a few  miles  short  of  it.  After  dinner,  the  heat  being 
considerably  abated,  we  went  in  the  yacht’s  boat  to  the  nearest 
shore.  Before  us  was  a large  extent  of  swampy  ground,  but  in 
a high  state  of  cultivation,  and  covered  with  green  rice,  offering 
an  appearance  not  unlike  flax ; on  our  right  was  a moderate  sized 
village,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  river  a numerous  herd  of  cattle 
was  feeding ; these  are  mostly  red,  or  red  and  white,  with  humps 
on  their  backs,  nearly  resembling  those  which  I have  seen  at 
Wynnstay  and  Combermere.  Buffaloes  are  uncommon  in  the 
lower  parts  of  Bengal.  As  we  approached  the  village,  a number 
of  men  and  boys  came  out  to  meet  us,  all  naked  except  the 
Cummerbund,  with  very  graceful  figures,  and  distinguished  by 
a mildness  of  countenance  almost  approaching  to  effeminacy. 
They  regarded  us  with  curiosity,  and  the  children  crowded  round 
with  great  familiarity.  The  objects  which  surrounded  us  were 
of  more  than  common  beauty  and  interest ; the  village,  a collec- 
tion of  mud-walled  cottages,  thatched,  and  many  of  them  covered 
with  a creeping  plant  bearing  a beautiful  broad  leaf,  of  the 
gourd  species,  stood  irregularly  scattered  in  the  midst  of  a wood 
of  coco-palms,  fruit,  and  other  trees,  among  which  the  banyan 
was  very  conspicuous  and  beautiful ; we  were  cautioned  against 
attempting  to  enter  the  houses,  as  such  a measure  gives  much 
offence.  Some  of  the  natives,  however,  came  up  and  offered  to 
show  us  the  way  to  the  pagoda, — “ the  Temple,”  they  said,  “of 
Mahadeo.”  We  followed  them  through  the  beautiful  grove 
which  overshadowed  their  dwellings,  by  a winding  and  narrow 
path ; the  way  was  longer  than  we  expected,  and  it  was  growing 
dusk ; we  persevered,  however,  and  arrived  in  front  of  a small 
building  with  three  apertures  in  front,  resembling  lancet  windows 
of  the  age  of  Henry  the  Second.  A flight  of  steps  led  up  to  it, 
in  which  the  Brahmin  of  the  place  was  waiting  to  receive  us, — 
an  elderly  man,  naked  like  his  flock,  but  distinguished  by  a nar- 
row band  of  cotton  twist  thrown  two  or  three  times  doubled 
across  his  right  shoulder  and  breast,  like  a scarf,  which  is  a mark 
of  distinction,  worn,  I understand,  by  all  Brahmins ; a fine  boy 
with  a similar  badge,  stood  near  him,  and  another  man  with  the 
addition  of  a white  turban,  came  up  and  said  he  was  a police- 
officer  (“  police-wala”).  The  occurrence  of  this  European  word 
in  a scene  so  purely  Oriental,  had  a whimsical  effect.  It  was 
not,  however,  the  only  one  which  we  heard,  for  the  Brahmin 
announced  himself  to  us  as  the  “ Padre”  of  the  village,  a name 
which  they  have  originally  learnt  from  the  Portuguese,  but  which 


MANNERS  OF  THE  PEOPLE. 


49 


IS  now  applied  to  religious  persons  of  all  descriptions  all  over 
India,  even  in  the  most  remote  situations,  and  where  no  European 
penetrates  once  in  a century.  The  village  we  were  now  in,  I 
was  told,  had  probably  been  very  seldom  visited  by  Europeans, 
since  few  persons  stop  on  the  shore  of  the  Ganges  between 
Diamond  Harbour  and  Fulta.  Few  of  the  inhabitants  spoke 
Plindoostanee.  Mr.  Mill  tried  the  Brahmin  in  Sanscrit,  but  found 
him  very  ignorant;  he,  indeed,  owned  it  himself,  and  said  in 
excuse,  they  were  poor  people. 

I greatly  regretted  I had  no  means  of  drawing  a scene  so  beau- 
tiful and  interesting;  the  sketch  1 have  made  is  from  recollection, 
and  every  way  unworthy  of  the  subject. 

I never  recollect  having  more  powerfully  felt  the  beauty  of 
similar  objects.  The  greenhouse-like  smell  and  temperature  of 
the  atmosphere  which  surrounded  us,  the  exotic  appearance  of 
the  plants  and  of  the  people,  the  verdure  of  the  fields,  the  dark 
shadows  of  the  trees,  and  the  exuberant  and  neglected  vigour  of 
the  soil,  teeming  with  life  and  food,  neglected,  as  it  were,  out  of 
pure  abundance,  would  have  been  striking  under  any  circum- 
stances ; they  were  still  more  so  to  persons  just  landed  from  a 
three  months’  voyage ; and  to  me,  when  associated  with  the 
recollection  of  the  objects  which  have  brought  me  out  to  India, 
the  amiable  manners  and  countenances  of  the  people,  contrasted 
with  the  symbols  of  their  foolish  and  polluted  idolatry  now  first 
before  me,  impressed  me  with  a very  solemn  and  earnest  wish 
that  I might  in  some  degree,  however  small,  be  enabled  to  con- 
duce to  the  spiritual  advantage  of  creatures  so  goodly,  so  gentle, 
and  now  so  misled  and  blinded.  “ Angeli  forent,  si  essent  Chris- 
tiani !”  As  the  sun  went  down,  many  monstrous  bats,  bigger  than 
the  largest  crows  I have  seen,  and  chiefly  to  be  distinguished  from 
them  by  their  indented  wings,  unloosed  their  hold  from  the  palm- 
trees,  and  sailed  slowly  around  us.  They  might  have  been 
supposed  the  guardian  genii  of  the  pagoda. 

. During  the  night  and  the  whole  of  the  next  day  the  wind  was 
either  contrary,  or  so  light  as  not  to  enable  us  to  stem  the  cur- 
rent; it  was  intensely  hot;  the  thermometer  stood  at  about  96°. 
The  commander  of  our  vessel  went  this  morning  to  a market 
held  in  a neighbouring  village,  to  purchase  some  trifles  for  the 
vessel ; and  it  may  show  the  poverty  of  the  country,  and  the 
cheapness  of  the  different  articles,  to  observe,  that  having  bought 
all  the  commodities  which  he  wanted  for  a few  pice,"^  he  was 
unable  in  the  whole  market  to  get  change  for  a rupee,  or  about 
two  shillings. 

In  the  evening  we  again  went  on  shore,  to  another  village, 

* A small  copper  coin,  about  the  vahie  of  our  halfpenny. — En. 

VoL.  I.— 7 


50 


COTTAGES. 


resembling  the  first  in  its  essential  features,  but  placed  in  a yet 
more  fertile  soil.  The  houses  stood  literally  in  a thicket  of  fruit 
trees,  plantains,  and  flowering  shrubs ; the  muddy  ponds  were 
covered  with  the  broad-leaved  lotus,  and  the  adjacent  “ paddy,” 
or  rice-fields,  were  terminated  by  a wood  of  tall  coco-nut  trees, 
between  whose  stems  the  light  was  visible,  pretty  much  like  a 
grove  of  Scotch  firs.  I here  remarked  the  difference  between 
the  coco  and  the  palmira  : the  latter  with  a narrower  leaf  than 
the  former,  and  at  this  time  of  year  without  fruit,  with  which  the 
other  abounded.  For  a few  pice  one  of  the  lads  climbed  up  the 
tallest  of  these  with  great  agility,  notwithstanding  the  total  want 
of  boughs,  and  the  slipperiness  of  the  bark.  My  wife  was  anxious 
to  look  into  one  of  their  houses,  but  found  its  owners  unwilling 
to  allow  her.  At  length  one  old  fellow,  I believe  to  get  us  away 
from  his  own  threshold,  said  he  would  show  us  a very  fine  house. 
We  followed  him  to  a cottage  somewhat  larger  than  those  w^hich 
we  had  yet  seen ; but  on  our  entering  its  little  court-yard,  the 
people  came  in  much  earnestness  to  prevent  our  proceeding 
farther.  We  had,  however,  a fair  opportunity  of  seeing  an  Indian 
farm-yard  and  homestead.  In  front  w^as  a small  mud  building, 
with  a thatched  verandah  looking  towards  the  village,  and  behind 
was  a court  filled  with  coco-nut  husk,  and  a little  rice  straw ; in 
the  centre  of  this  was  a round  thatched  building,  raised  on  bam- 
boos about  a foot  from  the  ground,  which  they  said  was  a 
“ GoJiah,”  or  granary ; round  it  were  small  mud  cottages,  each 
to  all  appearance  an  apartment  in  the  dwelling.  In  one  corner 
was  a little  mill,  something  like  a crab-mill,  to  be  worked  by  a 
man,  for  separating  the  rice  from  the  husk.  By  all  which  we 
could  see  through  the  open  doors,  the  floor  of  the  apartments 
was  of  clay,  devoid  of  furniture  and  light,  except  what  the  door 
admitted.  A Brahmin  now  appeared,  a formal  pompous  man, 
who  spoke  better  Hindoostanee  than  the  one  whom  we  had  seen 
before.  I was  surprised  to  find  that  in  these  villages,  and  Mr. 
Mill  tells  me  that  it  is  the  case  almost  all  over  India,  the  word 
“ Grigi,”  a corruption  of  “ Ecclesia,”  is  employed  when  speaking 
of  any  place  of  worship.  Many  of  these  people  looked  unhealthy. 
Their  village  and  its  vicinity  appeared  to  owe  their  fertility  to 
excessive  humidity  under  a burning  sun.  Many  of  the  huts  were 
surrounded  by  stagnant  water ; and  near  the  entrance  of  one  of 
them  they  showed  us  a little  elevated  mound  like. a grave,  which 
they  said  was  their  refuge  when  the  last  inundation  was  at  its 
height.  So  closely  and  mysteriously  do  the  instruments  of  pro- 
duction and  destruction,  plenty  and  pestilence,  life  and  death, 
tread  on  the  heels  of  each  other  ! 

Besides  tamarinds,  cocos,  palmiras,  plantains,  and  banyans, 
there  were  some  other  trees  of  which  we  could  not  learn  the 


iVlALDIVIAN  VESSELS, 


.51 


European  name.  One  was  the  neem,  a tree  not  very  unlike  the 
acacia,  the  leaves  of  which  are  used  to  keep  moths  from  books 
and  clothes.  Another  1 supposed  to  be  the  manchineel, — a tree 
like  a very  large  rhododendron,  but  now  without  flowers ; its 
thick  club-ended  branches,  when  wounded,  exuded  a milky  juice 
in  large  quantities,  which  the  natives  said  would  blister  the  fin- 
gers. We  saw  one  jackall  run  into  the  woods  : the  cries  of  these 
animals  grew  loud  and  incessant  as  we  returned  to  the  ship,  and 
so  nearly  resembled  the  voice  of  children  at  play,  that  it  was 
scarcely  possible  at  first  to  ascribe  them  to  any  other  source.  On 
our  arrival  at  the  vessel  we  found  two  Bholiahs,  or  large  row 
boats,  with  convenient  cabins,  sent  to  take  us  up  the  river,  as  it 
was  impossible,  with  such  light  winds,  for  the  yacht  to  stem  the 
force  of  the  current. 

October  10. — At  2 o’clock  this  afternoon,  we  set  out  for  Cal- 
cutta in  the  Bholiahs,  and  had  a very  delightful  and  interesting 
passage  up  the  river,  partly  with  sails,  and  partly  with  oars.  The 
country,  as  we  drew  nearer  the  capital,  advanced  in  population  ; 
and  the  river  was  filled  with  vessels  of  every  description.  Among 
these,  I was  again  greatly  struck  by  the  Maldivian  vessels,  close 
to  some  of  which  our  boat  passed.  Their  size  appeared  to  me 
from  150  to  near  200  tons,  raised  to  an  immense  height  above  the 
water  by  upper  works  of  split  bamboo,  with  a very  lofty  head  and 
stern,  immense  sails,  and  crowded  with  a wild  and  energetic 
looking  race  of  mariners,  who  Captain  Manning  told  me  were 
really  bold  and  expert  fellows,  and  the  vessels  better  sea-boats  than 
their  clumsy  forms  would  lead  one  to  anticipate.  Bengalee  and 
Chittagong  vessels,  with  high  heads  and  sterns,  were  also  nume- 
rous. In  both  these  the  immense  size  of  the  rudders,  suspended 
by  ropes  to  the  vessel’s  stern,  and  worked  by  a helmsman,  raised 
at  a great  height  above  the  vessel,  chiefly  attracted  attention. 
There  were  many  other  vessels,  which  implied  a gradual  adop- 
tion of  European  habits,  being  brigs  and  sloops,  very  clumsily 
and  injudiciously  rigged,  but  still  improvements  on  the  old  Indian 
ships.  Extensive  plantations  of  sugar-cane,  and  numerous  cot- 
tages, resembling  those  we  had  already  seen,  appeared  among  the 
groves  of  coco-nut  and  other  fruit  trees,  which  covered  the  greater 
part  of  the  shore  ; a few  cows  were  tethered  on  the  banks,  and 
some  large  brick-fields  with  sheds  like  those  in  England,  and  here 
and  there  a white  staring  European  house,  with  plantations  and 
shrubberies,  gave  notice  of  our  approach  to  an  European  capital. 
At  a distance  of  about  nine  miles  from  the  place  where  we  had 
left  the  yacht,  we  landed  among  some  tall  bamboos,  and  walked 
about  a quarter  of  a mile  to  the  front  of  a very  dingy,  deserted 
looking  house,  not  very  unlike  a country  gentleman’s  house  in 
Russia,  near  some  powder  mills  ; here  we  found  carriages  waiting 


52 


APPROACH  TO  CALCUTTA. 


for  us,  drawn  by  small  horses  with  switch  tails,  and  driven 
by  postilions  with  whiskers,  turbans,  bare  legs  and  arms,  and 
blue  jackets  with  tawdry  yellow  lace.  A “ saees,”  or  groom, 
ran  by  the  side  of  each  horse,  and  behind  one  of  them  were  two 
decent  looking  men  with  long  beards  and  white  cotton  dresses, 
who  introduced  themselves  as  my  Peons  or  Hurkarus ; their 
badges  were  a short  mace  or  club  of  silver,  of  a crooked  form, 
and  terminating  in  a tiger’s  head,  something  resembling  a Dacian 
standard,  as  represented  on  Trajan’s  pillar,  and  a long  silver 
stick  with  a knob  at  the  head. 

We  set  out  at  a round  trot;  the  saeeses  keeping  their  places 
very  nimbly  on  each  side  of  us,  though  on  foot,  along  a raised, 
broadish,  but  bad  road,  with  deep  ditches  of  stagnant  water  on 
each  side,  beyond  which  stretched  out  an  apparently  intermina- 
ble wood  of  fruit  trees,  interspersed  with  cottages  : some  seemed 
to  be  shops,  being  entirely  open  with  verandahs,  and  all  chiefly 
made  up  of  mats  and  twisted  bamboo.  The  crowd  of  people 
was  considerable,  and  kept  up  something  like  the  appearance  of 
a fair  along  the  whole  line  of  road.  Many  were  in  bullock  carts, 
others  driving  loaded  bullocks  before  them,  a few  had  wretched 
ponies,  which,  as  well  as  the  bullocks,  bore  too  many  and  in- 
dubitable marks  of  neglect  and  hard  treatment;  the  manner  in 
which  the  Hindoos  seemed  to  treat  even  their  horned  cattle,  sa- 
cred as  they  are  from  the  butcher’s  knife,  appeared  far  worse  than 
that  which  often  disgusts  the  eye  and  wounds  the  feelings  of  a 
passenger  through  London. 

Few  women  were  seen;  those  who  appeared  had  somewhat 
more  clothing  than  the  men, — a coarse  white  veil,  or  “ chuddah,” 
thrown  over  their  heads  without  hiding  their  faces,  their  arms 
bare,  and  ornamented  with  large  silver  “ bangles,”  or  bracelets. 
The  shops  contained  a few  iron  tools  hanging  up,  some  slips  of 
coarse  coloured  cotton,  plantains  hanging  in  bunches,  while  the 
ground  was  covered  with  earthen  vessels,  and  a display  of  rice 
and  some  kind  of  pulse  heaped  up  on  sheets  ; in  the  midst  of 
which,  smoking  a sort  of  rude  hookah,  made  of  a short  pipe  and  a 
coco-nut  shell,  the  trader  was  squatted  on  the  ground. 

By  degrees  we  began  to  see  dingy  brick  buildings  of  more  pre- 
tensions to  architecture,  but  far  more  ugly  than  the  rudest  bam- 
boo hut, — the  abodes  of  Hindoos  or  Mussulmans  of  the  middle 
class,  flat-roofed,  with  narrow  casement  windows,  and  enclosed 
by  a brick  wall,  which  prevented  all  curious  eyes  from  prying 
into  their  domestic  economy.  These  were  soon  after  mingled 
with  the  large  and  handsome  edifices  of  Garden  Reach,  each 
standing  by  itself  in  a little  woody  lawn,  (a  “ compound”  they 
call  it  here,  by  an  easy  corruption  from  the  Portuguese  word 
Campana,)  and  consisting  of  one  or  more  stories,  with  a Grecian 


ARRIVAL  AT  CALCUTTA, 


63 


verandah  along  their  whole  length  of  front.  As  we  entered  Kid« 
derpoor,  European  carriages  were  seen,  and  our  eyes  were  met 
by  a police  soldier,  standing  sentry  in  the  corner  of  the  street, 
nearly  naked,  but  armed  with  a sabre  and  shield, — a pagoda  or 
two, — a greater  variety  of  articles  in  the  shops, — a greater  crowd 
in  the  streets, — and  a considerable  number  of  “ caranchies,”  or 
native  carriages,  each  drawn  by  two  horses,  and  looking  like  the 
skeletons  of  hackney  coaches  in  our  own  country. 

From  Kidderpoor  we  passed  by  a mean  wooden  bridge  over  a 
muddy  creek,  which  brought  us  to  an  extensive  open  plain  like  a 
race  course,  at  the  extremity  of  which  we  saw  Calcutta,  its  white 
houses  glittering  through  the  twilight,  which  was  now  beginning 
to  close  in,  with  an  effect  not  unlike  that  of  ConnaughLplace  and 
its  neighbourhood,  as  seen  from  a distance  across  Hyde  Park. 
Over  this  plain  we  drove  to  the  fort,  where  Lord  Amherst  has 
assigned  the  old  government  house  for  our  temporary  residence. 
The  fort  stands  considerably  to  the  south  of  Calcutta,  and  west  of 
Chowringhee,  having  the  Hooghly  on  its  west  side.  The  degree 
of  light  which  now  remained  rendered  all  its  details  indistinguish- 
able, and  it  was  only  when  we  began  to  wind  through  the  different 
works,  and  to  hear  the  clash  of  the  sentries  presenting  arms  as  we 
passed,  that  we  knew  we  were  approaching  a military  post  of 
great  extent  and  considerable  importance.  We  at  length  alighted 
at  the  door  of  our  temporary  abode,  a large  and  very  handsome 
building  in  the  centre  of  the  fort,  and  of  the  vast  square  formed 
by  its  barracks  and  other  buildings.  This  square  is  grassed  over, 
and  divided  by  broad  roads  of  ‘‘  pucka,”  or  pounded  brick,  with 
avenues  of  tall  trees  stocked  with  immense  flights  of  crows,  which 
had  not  yet  ceased  their  evening  concert  when  we  arrived.  We 
found  at  the  door  two  sentries,  resembling  Europeans  in  every 
thing  but  complexion,  which  indeed  was  far  less  swarthy  than  that 
of  the  other  natives  whom  we  had  hitherto  seen,  and  were  receiv- 
ed by  a long  train  of  servants  in  cotton  dresses  and  turbans  ; one 
of  them  with  a long  silver  stick,  and  another  with  a short  mace, 
answering  to  those  of  the  Peons  who  had  received  us  at  the  land- 
ing place. 

The  house  consisted  of  a lofty  and  well-proportioned  hall,  40 
feet  by  25,  a drawing  room  of  the  same  length,  and  six  or  seven 
rooms  all  on  the  same  floor,  one  of  which  served  as  a chapel,  the 
lower  story  being  chiefly  occupied  as  offices  or  lobbies.  Ail  these 
rooms  were  very  lofty,  with  many  doors  and  windows  on  every 
side ; the  floors  of  plaster,  covered  with  mats ; the  ceilings  of 
bricks,  plastered  also,  flat,  and  supported  by  massive  beams,  which 
were  visible  from  the  rooms  below,  but  being  painted  neatly  had  not 
at  all  a bad  effect.  Punkas,  large  frames  of  light  wood  covered  witli 
white  cotton,  and  looking  not  unlike  enormous  fire-boards,  hung 


54 


ARRIVAL  AT  CALCUTTA. 


from  the  ceilings  of  the  principal  apartments ; to  which  cords 
were  fastened,  which  were  drawn  backwards  and  forwards  by  one 
or  more  servants,  so  as  to  agitate  and  cool  the  air  very  agreeably. 
The  walls  were  white  and  unadorned,  except  with  a number  of 
glass  lamps  filled  with  cocoa-nut  oil,  and  the  furniture,  though  suf- 
ficient for  the  climate,  was  scanty  in  comparison  with  that  of  an 
English  house.  The  beds  instead  of  curtains  had  mosquito  nets  ; 
they  were  raised  high  from  the  ground  and  very  hard,  admirably 
adapted  for  a hot  climate. 

I had  then  the  ceremony  to  go  through  of  being  made  acquaint- 
ed with  a considerable  number  of  my  clergy.  Among  whom  was 
my  old  school-fellow  at  Whitchurch,  Mr.  Parsons,  some  years 
older  than  myself,  whom  I recollect  when  I was  quite  an  urchin. 
Then  all  our  new  servants  were  paraded  before  us  under  their 
respective  names  of  Chobdars,"^  Sotaburdars,"^  Hurkarus,^  Khan- 
saman,t  Abdar,J  Sherabdar,§  Khitmutgars,||  Sirdar  Bearer,1[ 
and  Bearers,  cum  multis  aliis.  Of  all  these,  however,  the  Sir- 
car"^^  was  the  most  conspicuous,- — a tall  fine  looking  man,  in  a 
white  muslin  dress,  speaking  good  English,  and  the  editor  of  a 
Bengalee  newspaper,  who  appeared  with  a large  silken  and  em- 
broidered purse  full  of  silver  coins,  and  presented  it  to  us,  in  order 
that  we  might  go  through  the  form  of  receiving  it,  and  replacing 
it  in  his  hands.  This,  I then  supposed,  was  a badge  of  his  office, 
hut  1 afterwards  found  that  it  was  the  relic  of  the  ancient  eastern 
custom  of  never  approaching  a superior  without  a present,  and 
that  in  like  manner  all  the  natives  who  visited  me  offered  a “ nuz- 
zur,”  or  offering,  of  a piece  of  gold  or  silver  money. 

* Men  who  carry  silver  sticks  before  people  of  rank ; or  messengers,  all  bear- 
ing the  generic  appellation  of  Peons. 

t Steward.  | Water  cooler.  ^ Butler.  ||  Footmen. 

H Head  of  all  the  bearers,  and  valet  de  chambre. *  **  Agent. — Ed. 


55 


CHAPTER  II. 

CALCUTTA DESCRIPTION  OF  CALCUTTA : CATHEDRAL  : ENVIRONS  : 

QUAY CHILD-MURDER BARRACKPOOR MENAGERIE FEMALE  OR- 
PHAN ASYLUM CONSECRATION  OF  CHURCHES NACH FREE  SCHOOL 

BOTANICAL  GARDEN BISHOP’s  COLLEGE NATIVE  FEMALE  SCHOOLS 

DISTRESS  AMONG  EUROPEANS. 

October  11. — In  the  morning  as  the  day  broke,  (before  which 
time  is  the  usual  hour  of  rising  in  India,)  we  were  much  struck 
by  the  singular  spectacle  before  us.  Besides  the  usual  apparatus 
of  a place  of  arms,  the  walks,  roofs,  and  ramparts,  swarmed  with 
gigantic  birds,  the  “ hurgila,”  from  “ hur,”  a bone,  and  “ gilana,” 
to  swallow,  larger  than  the  largest  turkey,  and  twice  as  tall  as  the 
heron,  which  in  some  respects  they  much  resemble,  except  that 
they  have  a large  blue  and  red  pouch  under  the  lower  bill,  in  which 
we  were  told  they  keep  such  food  as  they  cannot  eat  at  the  mo- 
ment."^' These  birds  share  with  the  jackalls,  who  enter  the  fort 
through  the  drains,  the  post  of  scavenger,  but  unlike  them,  instead 
of  flying  mankind  and  daylight,  lounge  about  with  perfect  fear- 
lessness all  day  long,  and  almost  jostle  us  from  our  paths.  We 
walked  some  time  round  the  square,  and  were  amused  to  see  our 
little  girl,  walking  with  her  nurse,  in  great  delight  at  the  animals 
round  her,  but  rather  encumbered  with  the  number  of  servants 
who  had  attached  themselves  to  her.  For  her  especial  service,  a 
bearer,  a khitmutgar,  a hurkaru,and  a cook,  were  appointed,  and 
there  were,  besides  the  two  former,  one  of  the  silver  sticks  with 
her,  and  another  bearer  with  a monstrous  umbrella  on  a long  bam- 
boo pole,  which  he  held  over  her  head  in  the  manner  represented 
on  Chinese  screens ; — my  wife  soon  reduced  her  nursery  estab- 
lishment,— but  we  afterwards  found  that  it  is  the  custom  in 
Calcutta  to  go  to  great  expence  in  the  equipage  of  children. 

A lady  told  us  she  had  seen  a little  boy  of  six  years  old  para- 
ded in  a pony  phaeton  and  pair,  with  his  “ Ayah,”  or  nurse, 
coachman,  “ Chattah-burdar,”  or  umbrella-bearer,  a saees  on 
each  side,  and  another  behind,  leading  a third  pony,  splendidly 

* It  has  since  been  ascertained  by  dissection,  that  this  pouch  has  no  connection 
with  the  stomach, — but  has  a very  small  tube  opening  into  the  nostril, — through 
which  it  is  supposed  air  is  admitted  to  enable  the  bird  to  breathe  when  the  orifice 
of  the  throat  is  closed  by  any  large  substance,  which  it  attempts,  for  some  time 
in  vain,  to  swallow.  At  such  time  the  pouch  is  in  this  way  inflated  with  air,  and 
respiration  goes  on  unimpeded. — Ed. 


56 


DESCRIPTION  OF  CALCUTTA. 


caparisoned,  not  in  case  the  young  Sahib  should  choose  to  ride, 
he  was  too  young  for  that, — but  as  the  saees  himself  expressed 
it,  “ for  the  look  of  the  thing.”  This,  however,  rather  belongs 
to  old  times,  when,  as  a gentleman  assured  me,  he  had  himself 
heard  at  the  dinner  party  of  one  of  the  Company’s  civil  servants, 
a herald  proclaiming  aloud  all  the  great  man’s  titles  ; and  when  a 
palankeen  with  the  silk,  brocade,  and  gilding  which  then  adorned 
it,  frequently  cost  3000^  rupees ; at  present  people  are  poorer 
and  wiser. 

The  approach  to  the  city  from  the  fort  is  striking  ; — we 
crossed  a large  green  plain,  having  on  the  left  the  Hooghly,  with 
its  forests  of  masts  and  sails  seen  through  the  stems  of  a double 
row  of  trees.  On  the  right-hand  is  the  district  called  Chowrin- 
ghee,  lately  a mere  scattered  suburb,  but  now  almost  as  closely 
built  as,  and  very  little  less  extensive  than,  Calcutta.  In  front 
was  the  esplanade,  containing  the  Town  Hall,  the  Government 
House,  and  many  handsome  private  dwellings, — the  whole  so  like 
some  parts  of  Petersburgh,  that  it  was  hardly  possible  for  me  to 
fancy  myself  any  where  else.  No  native  dwellings  are  visible 
from  this  quarter,  except  one  extensive  but  ruinous  bazar,  which 
occupies  the  angle  where  Calcutta  and  Chowringhee  join.  Be- 
hind the  esplanade,  however,  are  only  Tank-square,  and  some 
other  streets  occupied  by  Europeans, — the  Durrumtollah  and 
Cossitollah  are  pretty  equally  divided  between  the  different  na- 
tions ; and  all  the  west  of  Calcutta  is  a vast  town,  composed  of 
narrow  crooked  streets,  brick  bazars,  bamboo  huts,  and  here  and 
there  the  immense  convent-like  mansion  of  some  of  the  more 
wealthy  “ Baboos”  (the  name  of  the  native  Hindoo  gentleman, 
answering  to  our  Esquire)  or  Indian  merchants  and  bankers.  The 
Town-hall  has  no  other  merit  than  size,  but  the  Government-house 
has  narrowly  missed  being  a noble  structure ; it  consists  of  two 
semicircular  galleries,  placed  back  to  back,  uniting  in  the  centre 
in  a large  hall,  and  connecting  four  splendid  suites  of  apartments. 
Its  columns  are,  however,  in  a paltry  style,  and  instead  of  having, 
as  it  might  have  had,  two  noble  stories  and  a basement,  it  has 
three  stories,  all  too  low,  and  is  too  much  pierced  with  windows 
on  every  side.  1 was  here  introduced  to  Lord  Amherst ; and 
afterwards  went  to  the  Cathedral,  where  I was  installed.  This  is 
a very  pretty-  building,  all  but  the  spire,  which  is  short  and 
clumsy.  The  whole  composition,  indeed,  of  the  Church,  is  full 
of  architectural  blunders,  but  still  it  is  in  other  respects  hand- 
some. The  inside  is  elegant,  paved  with  marble,  and  furnished 
with  very  large  and  handsome  glass  chandeliers,  the  gift  of  Mr. 

* The  highest  price  of  an  Eng’lit^ih  built  palankeen  in  the  present  day,  is  300 
rupees. — Ed. 


ENVIRONS. 


57 


M‘Clintoch,  with  a light  pulpit,  with  chairs  on  one  side  of  the 
chancel  for  the  Governor-General  and  his  family,  and  on  the  other 
for  the  bishop  and  archdeacon.  We  dined  to-day  at  the  Govern- 
ment-house ; to  a stranger  the  appearance  of  the  bearded  and 
turbaned  waiters  is  striking. 

October  12. — This  was  Sunday.  1 preached,  and  we  had  a 
good  congregation. 

October  13. — We  drive  out  twice  a day  on  the  course ; I am 
much  disappointed  as  to  the  splendour  of  the  equipages,  of  which 
I had  heard  so  much  in  England ; the  horses  are  most  of  them 
both  small  and  poor,  while  the  dirty  white  dresses  and  bare  limbs 
of  their  attendants,  have  to  an  unaccustomed  eye  an  appearance 
of  any  thing  but  wealth  and  luxury.  Calcutta  stands  on  an  almost 
perfect  level  of  alluvial  and  marshy  ground,  which  a century  ago 
was  covered  with  jungle  and  stagnant  pools,  and  which  still 
almost  every  where  betrays  its  unsoundness  by  the  cracks  conspi- 
cuous in  the  best  houses.  To  the  East,  at  the  distance  of  four 
miles  and  a half,  is  a large  but  shallow  lagoon  of  salt  water,  being 
the  termination  of  the  Sunderbunds,  from  which  a canal  is  cut 
pretty  nearly  to  the  town,  and  towards  which  all  the  drainings  of 
the  city  flow,  what  little  difference  of  level  there  is  being  in 
favour  of  the  banks  of  the  river.  Between  the  salt  lake  and  the 
city,  the  space  is  filled  by  gardens,  fruit  trees,  and  the  dwellings 
of  the  natives,  some  of  them  of  considerable  size,  but  mostly 
wretched  huts,  all  clustered  in  irregular  groupes  round  large 
square  tanks,  and  connected  by  narrow,  winding,  unpaved  streets 
and  lanes,  amid  turfs  of  bamboos,  coco-trees,  and  plantains, 
picturesque  and  striking  to  the  sight,  but  extremely  offensive  to 
the  smell,  from  the  quantity  of  putrid  water,  the  fumes  of  wood 
smoke,  coco-nut  oil,  and  above  all  the  ghee,  which  is  to  the 
Hindoo  his  principal  luxury.  Few  Europeans  live  here,  and 
those  few,  such  as  the  Missionaries  employed  by  the  Church 
Missionary  Society  in  Mirzapoor,  are  said  to  suffer  greatly  from 
the  climate.  Even  my  Sircar,  though  a native,  in  speaking  of 
the  neighbouring  district  of  Dhee  Intally,  said  that  he  himself 
never  went  near  the  “ bad  water”  which  flows  up  from  the  salt 
water  lake,  without  sickness  and  head-ache. 

To  the  south,  a branch  of  the  Hooghly  flows  also  into  the  Sun- 
derbunds. It  is  called,  by  Europeans,  Tolly’s  Nullah,  but  the  na- 
tives regard  it  as  the  true  Gunga,  the  wide  stream  being,  as  they 
pretend,  the  work  of  human  and  impious  hands,  at  some  early 
period  of  their  history.  In  consequence  no  person  worships  the 
river  between  Kidderpoor  and  the  sea,  while  this  comparatively 
insignificant  ditch  enjoys  all  the  same  divine  honours  which  the 
Ganges  and  the  Hooghly  enjoy  during  the  earlier  parts  of  their 
course.  The  banks  of  the  Tolly’s  Nullah  are  covered  bv  two 

VoL.  1.— 8 


58 


ENVIRONS, 


large  and  nearly  contiguous  villages,  Kidderpoor  and  Allypoor,  as 
well  as  by  several  considerable  European  houses,  and  are  said  to 
be  remarkably  dry  and  wholesome.  To  the  north  is  a vast  ex- 
tent of  fertile  country,  divided  into  rice-fields,  orchards  and  gar- 
dens, covered  with  a thick  shade  of  fruit  trees,  and  swarming  with 
an  innumerable  population,  occupying  the  large  suburbs  of  Cos- 
sipoor,  Chitpoor,  &c.  This  tract  resembles  in  general  appearance 
the  eastern  suburb,  but  is  drier,  healthier,  and  more  open  ; through 
it  lie  the  two  great  roads  to  Dum  Dum  and  Barrackpoor.  West- 
ward flows  the  Hooghly,  at  least  twice  as  broad  as  the  Thames 
below  London  bridge, — covered  with  large  ships  and  craft  of  all 
kind,  and  offering  on  its  farther  bank  the  prospect  of  another  con- 
siderable suburb,  that  of  Howrah,  chiefly  inhabited  by  ship-build- 
ers, but  with  some  pretty  villas  interspersed.  The  road  which 
borders  Calcutta  and  Chowringhee,  is  called,  whimsically  enough, 
“the  circular  road,”  and  runs  along  nearly  the  same  line  which 
was  once  occupied  by  a wide  ditch  and  earthen  fortification,  raised 
on  occasion  of  the  Maharatta  war.  This  is  the  boundary  of  the 
liberties  of  Calcutta,  and  of  the  English  law.  All  offences  com- 
mitted within  this  line  are  tried  by  the  “ Sudder  Adawlut,”  or 
Supreme  Court  of  Justice; — those  beyond  fall,  in  the  first  instance, 
within  the  cognizance  of  the  local  magistracy,  and  in  case  of  ap- 
peal are  determined  by  the  “ Sudder  Dewannee,”  or  Court  of 
the  People  in  Chowringhee,  whose  proceedings  are  guided  by  the 
Koran  and  the  laws  of  Menu. 

From  the  north-west  angle  of  the  fort  of  the  city,  along  the  banks 
of  the  Hooghly,  is  a walk  of  pounded  brick,  covered  with  sand, 
the  usual  material  of  the  roads  and  streets  in  and  near  Calcutta, 
with  a row  of  trees  on  each  side,  and  about  its  centre  a flight  of 
steps  to  descend  to  the  river,  which  in  the  morning,  a little  after 
sunrise,  are  generally  crowded  with  persons,  washing  themselves 
and  performing  their  devotions,  of  which,  indeed,  ablution  is  an 
essential  and  leading  part.  The  rest  consists,  in  general,  in  re- 
peatedly touching  the  forehead  and  cheeks  with  white,  red,  or 
yellow  earth,  and  exclamations  of  Ram  ! Ram  ! There  are  some 
Brahmins,  however,  always  about  this  time  seated  on  the  bank 
under  the  trees,  who  keep  counting  their  beads,  turning  over  the 
leaves  of  their  banana-leaf  books,  and  muttering  their  prayers 
with  considerable  seeming  devotion,  and  for  a long  time  together. 
These  are  “ Gooroos,”  or  religious  teachers,  and  seem  conside- 
rably respected.  Children  and  young  persons  are  seen  continually 
kneeling  down  to  them,  and  making  them  little  offerings,  but  the 
wealthier  Hindoos  seldom  stop  their  palankeens  for  such  a pur- 
pose. Where  the  esplanade  walk  joins  Calcutta,  a very  hand- 
some quay  is  continued  along  the  side  of  the  river ; resembling  in 
every  thing  but  the  durability  of  material,  the  quays  of  Peters- 


CHILD  MURDEK. 


59 

burgh.  It  is  unhappiij  of  brick  instead  of  granite,  and  is  as  yet 
unfinished,  but  many  houses  and  public  buildings  are  rising  on  it, 
and  it  bids  fair  to  be  a very  great  additional  ornament  and  conve- 
nience to  Calcutta.  Vessels  of  all  descriptions,  to  the  burden  of 
600  tons,  may  lie  almost  close  up  to  this  quay,  and  there  is  always 
a crowd  of  ships  and  barks,  as  well  as  a very  interesting  assem- 
blage of  strangers  of  all  sorts  and  nations  to  be  seen.  Of  these, 
perhaps  the  Arabs,  who  are  numerous,  are  the  most  striking,  from 
their  comparative  fairness,  their  fine  bony  and  muscular  figures, 
their  noble  countenances  and  picturesque  dress.  That  of  a 
wealthy  Arab  “ Nacoda,”  or  captain,  is  pretty  much  what  may 
be  seen  in  Niebuhr’s  Travels,  as  that  of  an  emir  of  Yemen. 
They  are  said  to  be  extremely  intelligent,  bold,  and  active,  but 
very  dirty  in  their  ships,  and  excessively  vain  and  insolent  when- 
ever they  have  the  opportunity  of  being  so  with  impunity. 

The  crowd  on  this  quay,  and  in  every  part  of  Calcutta,  is  great. 
No  fighting,  however,  is  visible,  though  we  hear  a great  deal  of 
scolding.  A Hindoo  hardly  ever  strikes  an  equal,  however  severe- 
ly he  may  be  provoked.  The  Arabs,  as  well  as  the  Portuguese, 
are  less  patient,  and  at  night,  frays  and  even  murders  in  the  streets 
are  of  no  unfrequent  occurrence,  chiefly,  however,  among  the  two 
descriptions  of  persons  whom  I have  named.  There  are  among 
the  Hindoos  very  frequent  instances  of  murder,  but  of  a more 
cowardly  and  premeditated  kind.  They  are  cases  chiefly  of 
women  murdered  from  jealousy,  and  children  for  the  sake  of  the 
silver  ornaments  with  which  their  parents  are  fond  of  decorating 
them.  Out  of  thirty-six  cases  of  murder  reported  in  the  province 
of  Bengal,  during  the  short  space  of,  I believe,  three  months, 
seventeen  were  of  children  under  these  circumstances. 

Though  no  slavery  legally  exists  in  the  British  territories  at  this 
moment,  yet  the  terms  and  gestures  used  by  servants  to  their  su- 
periors, ail  imply  that  such  a distinction  was,  at  no  distant  date, 
very  common.  “ I am  thy  slave,” — “ Thy  slave  hath  no  know- 
ledge,” are  continually  used  as  expressions  of  submission  and  of 
ignorance.  In  general,  however,  I do  not  think  that  the  Benga- 
lee servants  are  more  submissive  or  respectful  to  their  masters 
than  those  of  Europe.  The  habit  of  appearing  with  bare  feet  in 
the  house,  the  manner  of  addressing  their  superiors  by  Joining 
the  hands  as  in  the  attitude  of  prayer,  at  first  give  them  such  an 
appearance.  But  these  are  in  fact  nothing  more  than  taking  off 
the  hat,  or  bowing,  in  England  ; and  the  person  who  acts  thus,  is 
as  likely  to  speak  saucily,  or  neglect  our  orders,  as  any  English 
footman  or  groom.  Some  of  their  expressions,  indeed,  are  often 
misunderstood  by  new  comers  as  uncivil,  when  nothing  less  than 
incivility  is  intended.  If  you  bid  a man  order  breakfast,  he  will 
answer,  “ Have  I not  ordered  it?”  or,  “ Is  it  not  already  coming?” 


60 


BARRACKPOOR. 


merely  meaning  to  express  his  own  alacrity  in  obeying  you.  They 
are,  on  the  whole,  intelligent,  and  are  very  attentive  to  supply 
your  wishes,  even  half,  or  not  at  all  expressed.  Masters  seldom 
furnish  any  liveries,  except  turbans  or  girdles,  which  are  of  some 
distinctive  colour  and  lace ; the  rest  of  the  servant’s  dress  is  the 
cotton  shirt,  caftan,  and  trowsers  of  the  country,  and  they  are  by 
no  means  exact  as  to  its  cleanliness.  The  servants  of  the  gover- 
nor-general have  very  handsome  scarlet  and  gold  caftans. 

The  governor-general  has  a very  pretty  country  residence  at 
Barrackpoor,  a cantonment  of  troOps  about  16  miles  north  of 
Calcutta,  in  a small  park  of  (I  should  guess)  from  2 to  300  acres, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Hooghly,  offering  as  beautiful  a display  of 
turf,  tree,  and  flowering  shrub,  as  any  scene  in  the  world  can  pro- 
duce. The  view  of  the  river,  though  less  broad  here  than  at 
Calcutta,  is  very  fine ; and  the  Danish  settlement  of  Serampoor, 
which  stands  on  the  opposite  bank,  with  its  little  spire,  its  flag- 
staff, its  neat  white  buildings,  is  at  this  distance  a very  pleasing 
object.  The  house  itself  of  Barrackpoor  is  handsome,  contain- 
ing three  fine  sitting-rooms,  though  but  few  bed-chambers.  Indeed, 
as  in  this  climate  no  sleeping-rooms  are  even  tolerable,  unless  they 
admit  the  southern  breeze,  there  can  be  but  fiiw  in  any  house. 
Accordingly,  that  of  Barrackpoor  barely  accommodates  Lord 
Amherst’s  own  family ; and  his  aides-du-camp  and  visiters  sleep  in 
bungalows,  built  at  some  little  distance  from  it,  in  the  park. 

Bungalow,”  a corruption  of  Bengalee,  is  the  general  name  in 
this  country  for  any  structure  in  the  cottage  style,  and  only  of  one 
floor.  Some  of  these  are  spacious  and  comfortable  dwellings, 
generally  with  high  thatched  roofs,  surrounded  with  a verandah, 
and  containing  three  or  four  good  apartments,  with  bath-rooms 
and  dressing-rooms,  enclosed  from  the  eastern,  western,  or  north- 
ern verandahs.  The  south  is  always  left  open.  We  went  to 
Barrackpoor  the  28th  of  October.  The  road  runs  all  the  way 
between  gardens  and  orchards,  so  that  the  traveller  is  seldom 
without  shade.  Our  journey  we  made  before  eight  o’clock,  no 
travelling  being  practicable  at  this  season  of  the  year  with  com- 
fort afterwards.  We  staid  two  days,  and  were  greatly  pleased 
with  every  thing  we  saw,  and  above  all  with  the  kindness  of  Lord 
and  Lady  Amherst. 

At  Barrackpoor,  for  the  first  time,  1 mounted  an  elephant,  the 
motion  of  which  1 thought  far  from  disagreeable,  though  very  dif- 
ferent from  that  of  a horse.  As  the  animal  moves  both  feet  on 
the  same  side  at  once,  the  sensation  is  like  that  of  being  carried 
on  a man’s  shoulders.  A full  grown  elephant  carries  two  persons 
in  the  “ howdah,”  besides  the  “ mohout,”  or  driver,  who  sits  on 
his  neck,  and  a servant  on  the  crupper  behind  with  an  umbrella. 
The  howdah  itself,  which  Europeans  use,  is  not  unlike  the  body 


ELEPHANTS— PUNISHMENTS. 


61 


of  a small  gig,  but  without  a head.  The  native  howdahs  have  a 
far  less  elevated  seat,  and  are  much  more  ornamented.  At  Cal- 
cutta, or  within  five  miles  of  it,  no  elephants  are  allowed,  on  ac- 
count of  the  frequent  accidents  which  they  occasion  by  frightening 
horses.  Those  at  Barrackpoor  were  larger  animals  than  I had 
expected  to  see,  two  of  them  were  at  least  ten  feet  high.  That 
which  Lord  Amherst  rode,  and  on  which  I accompanied  him,  was 
a very  noble  fellow,  dressed  up  in  splendid  trappings,  which  were 
a present  from  the  king  of  Oude,  and  ornamented  all  over  with 
fish  embroidered  in  ‘'gold,  a device  which  is  here  considered  a 
badge  of  royalty.  I was  amused  by  one  peculiarity,  which  I had 
never  before  heard  of ; while  the  elephant  is  going  on,  a man 
walks  by  his  side,  telling  him  where  to  tread,  bidding  him  ‘‘  take 
care,”— “ step  out,”  warning  him  that  the  road  is  rough,  slippery, 
&c.,  all  which  the  animal  is  supposed  to  understand,  and  take  his 
measures  accordingly.  The  mohout  says  nothing,  but  guides  him 
by  pressing  his  legs  to  his  neck,  on  the  side  to  which  he  wishes 
him  to  turn,  urging  him  forwards  with  the  point  of  a formidable 
goad,  and  stopping  him  by  a blow  on  the  forehead  with  the  but 
end  of  the  same  instrument.  The  command  these  men  have  over 
their  elephants  is  well  known,  and  a circumstance  lately  occurred 
of  one  of  them  making  a sign  to  his  beast,  which  was  instantly 
obeyed,  to  kill  a woman  who  had  said  something  to  offend  him. 
The  man  was  executed  before  our  arrival. 

Capital  punishments  are  described  as  far  from  frequent,  and  ap- 
pear to  be  inflicted  for  murder  only  ; for  smaller  crimes,  offenders 
are  sentenced  to  hard  labour,  and  are  seen  at  work  in  the  public 
roads,  and  about  the  barracks,  in  groupes  more  or  less  numerous, 
each  man  with  fetters  on  his  legs,  and  watched  by  police-men,  or 
sepoys.  These  poor  creatures,  whatever  their  original  crimes 
may  have  been,  are  probably  still  more  hardened  by  a punishment 
which  thus  daily,  and  for  a length  of  time  together,  exposes  them 
in  a degraded  and  abject  condition,  to  the  eyes  of  men.  I never 
saw  countenances  so  ferocious  and  desperate  as  many  of  them  of- 
fer, and  which  are  the  more  remarkable  as  being  contrasted  with 
the  calmness  and  almost  feminine  mildness  which  generally  cha- 
racterizes the  Indian  expression  of  features.  What  indeed  can 
be  expected  in  men  who  have  neither  the  consolations  of  Christi- 
anity, nor  the  pity  of  their  brethren, — who  are  without  hope  in 
this  world,  and  have  no  just  idea  of  any  world  but  this  ! 

The  cantonment  of  Barrackpoor  is  very  pretty,  consisting  of 
a large  village  inhabited  by  soldiers,  with  bungalows  for  the  Eu- 
ropean officers  and  other  white  inhabitants,  who  are  attracted 
hither  by  the  salubrity  of  the  air,  the  vicinity  of  the  Governor’s 
residence,  or  the  beauty  and  convenience  of  the  river.  In  the 
Park  several  uncommon  animals  are  kept:  among  them  the  Ghyal, 


62 


MENAGERIE. 


an  animal  of  which  I had  not,  to  my  recollection,  read  any  account, 
though  the  name  was  not  unknown  to  me.  It  is  a very  noble  crea- 
ture, of  the  ox  or  buffalo  kind,  with  immensely  large  horns,  and 
a native  of  Thibet  and  Nepaul. 

It  is  very  much  larger  than  the  largest  Indian  cattle,  but  hardly 
I think  equal  to  an  English  bull : its  tail  is  bushy,  and  its  horns 
form  almost  a mass  of  white  and  solid  bone  to  the  centre  of  its 
forehead.  It  is  very  tame  and  gentle,  and  would,  1 should  think, 
be  a great  improvement  on  the  common  Indian  breed  of  horned 
cattle.  There  is  also  another  beautiful  animal  of  the  ass  kind, 
from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  which  is  kept  in  a stall,  and  led 
about  by  two  men  to  exercise  daily.  They  complain  of  its  wild 
and  untameable  spirit,  and  when  I saw  it,  had  hampered  its 
mouth  with  such  an  apparatus  of  bit  and  bridle  that  the  poor 
thing  was  almost  choked.  It  is  extremely  strong  and  bony,  of 
beautiful  form,  has  a fine  eye  and  good  countenance,  and  though 
not  striped  like  the  zebra,  is  beautifully  clouded  with  different 
tints  of  ash  and  mouse  colour.  We  met  two  lynxes,  or  “ siya 
gush,”  during  our  ride,  also  taking  the  air,  led  each  in  a chain  by 
his  keeper,  one  of  them  in  body  clothes,  like  an  English  grey- 
hound, both  perfectly  tame,  and  extremely  beautiful  creatures, 
about  the  size  of  a large  spaniel,  and  in  form  and  colour  some- 
thing between  a fox  and  a cat,  but  with  the  silky  fur  and  charac- 
teristic actions  of  the  latter.  The  other  animals,  consisting  of 
two  or  three  tigers  and  leopards,  two  different  kinds  of  bears — 
one  Bengalee,  the  other  from  Sincapoor,  a porcupine,  a kangaroo, 
monkeys,  mouse-deer,  birds,  &c.  are  kept  in  a menagerie,  their 
dens  all  very  clean,  and,  except  one  of  the  bears  and  one  hyaena, 
all  very  tame.  The  Bengalee  bears  are  precisely  of  the  same 
kind  with  that  which  is  described  and  drawn,  but  without  a name, 
in  “ Bewick’s  Quadrupeds,”  as  said  to  be  brought  from  Bengal. 
They  are  fond  of  vegetables,  and  almost  exclusively  fed  on  them ; 
three  of  these  are  very  good-natured,  and  show  their  impatience 
for  their  meals,  (after  which  they  are  said  to  be  very  greedy,) 
only  by  a moaning  noise,  raising  themselves  upright  against  the 
bars  of  the  cage,  and  caressing,  in  a most  plaintive  and  coaxing 
way,  any  person  who  approaches  them.  The  fourth  is  a very 
surly  fellow,  always  keeps  himself  in  a corner  of  his  den,  with 
his  face  turned  away  from  the  light  and  the  visitants,  and  if  at 
all  teazed,  turns  about  in  furious  wrath.  The  Sincapoor  bear  is 
smaller  than  the  others,  and  a very  beautiful  animal,  with  a fine, 
black,  close  fur,  a tan  muzzle  and  breast,  very  playful,  and  not 
greedy.  All  of  them  climb  like  cats,  notwithstanding  their  bulk, 
which  equals  that  of  a large  Russian  bear.  They  were  at  one 
time  supposed  to  be  ant-eaters,  but.  Dr.  Abel  says,  erroneously. 
They  burrow  in  the  ground,  have  longer  snouts  and  claws  than 


FEMALE  ORPHAN  SCHOOL. 


63 


our  European  bears,  and  struck  me  forcibly  as  a link  between  the 
badger  and  the  common  bear,  though  in  every  thing  but  their  vi- 
vacity they  bear  a general  resemblance  to  the  sloth,  or  bradypus. 

While  we  were  at  Barrackpoor,  a cobra  di  capello  was  killed 
close  to  our  bungalow ; it  was  talked  of  by  the  natives  in  a man- 
ner which  proved  them  not  to  be  common.  In  Calcutta  poison- 
ous snakes  are  very  seldom  seen ; nor  are  they  any  where  to  be 
much  apprehended,  except  one  goes  into  old  ruins,  neglected  pa- 
godas, or  dry  and  rubbishy  places,  where  Europeans  have  not 
often  occasion  to  tread.  The  water-snakes,  which  are  met  with 
in  moist  places,  are  very  seldom  dangerous.  Alligators  sometimes 
come  on  shore  to  bask,  and  there  is  one  in  a small  pond  in  the 
park.  They  ^re  of  two  kinds,  one,  which  seems  like  the  common 
crocodile  of  the  Nile,  has  a long  nose,  and  is  harmless,  unless  pro- 
voked. The  other  is  somewhat  smaller,  has  a round  snubbed 
head,  and  frequently  attacks  dogs  and  other  similar  animals,  and 
is  sometimes  dangerous  to  men  who  go  into  the  river.  1 suspect 
that  both  these  kinds  are  found  in  Egypt,  or  have  been  so  in  an- 
cient times.  I cannot  else  account  for  the  remarkable  discrepan- 
cy of  the  relations  which  are  given  us  respecting  their  ferocity 
and  activity,  their  tameness  and  sluggishness.  The  ancients  seem 
to  have  paid  most  attention  to  the  formidable  species.  The  other 
is  that  which  has  been  seen  by  Bruce  and  Sonnini. 

November  2nd  was  sacrament  Sunday  at  the  cathedral,  and 
there  were  a considerable  number  of  communicants.  In  the  even- 
ing we  went  to  see  the  school  for  European  female  orphans,  an 
extensive  and  very  useful  establishment,  supported  by  subscrip- 
tions, of  which  Mrs.  Thomason  is  the  most  active  manager.  It 
is  a spacious  and  handsome  though  irregular  building,  airy,  and 
well  adapted  to  its  purpose,  situated  in  a large  compound  in  the 
Circular  Road.  The  neighbourhood  has  been  fancied  unhealthy 
but  we  saw  no  appearance  of  it  in  the  girls.  The  establishment 
seems  well  conducted ; the  girls  are  not  encouraged  to  go  out  as 
' servants  ; when  they  have  relations  in  England,  they  usually  send 
them  thither,  unless  eligible  matches  occur  for  them  among  the 
tradesmen  of  Calcutta,  who  have,  indeed,  few  other  opportunities 
of  obtaining  wives  of  European  blood  and  breeding.  Even  ladies 
going  out  are  not  always  permitted  to  take  white  maids,  and  always 
under  a bond,  that  in  a year  or  two  they  shall  be  sent  back  again. 
The  consequence  is,  that  the  free  mariners,  and  other  persons  who 
go  out  to  India,  are  induced  to  form  connections  with  women  of 
the  country;  yeti  never  met  with  any  public  man  connected  with 
India,  who  did  not  lament  the  increase  of  the  half-caste  popula- 
tion, as  a great  source  of  present  mischief  and  future  danger  to 
the  tranquillity  of  the  colony.  Why  then  forbid  the  introduction 
of  a class  of  women  who  would  furnish  white  wives  to  the  white 


64 


DUM  DUM. 


colonists ; and  so  far,  at  least,  diminish  the  evil  of  which  they 
complain  ? Security  to  a moderate  amount,  that  the  person  thus 
going  to  India  should  not  become  burdensome  to  the  colony, 
would  be  enough  to  answer  every  political  purpose  of  the  present 
restrictions. 

Of  opportunities  for  education  there  seems  no  want,  either  for 
rich  or  poor ; there  are  some  considerable  schools  for  the  children 
of  the  former,  of  both  sexes.  There  is  an  excellent  free  school 
for  the  latter,  and  the  children  of  soldiers  and  officers  have  the 
military  orphan  asylum,  from  which,  where  legitimacy  exists,  no 
tint  or  complexion  is  excluded. 

November  4. — I went  to  consecrate  a new  church  at  Dum 
Dum,  having  previously  obtained  the  sanction  of  government  for 
the  performance  of  the  ceremony,  both  here  and  at  St.  James’s 
in  Calcutta,  as  also  a written  assurance  from  the  Governor  in 
Council,  that  the  building  should  thenceforward  be  appropriated 
to  the  worship  of  God  after  the  forms  and  laws  of  the  English 
church.  This  I thought  a sufficient  title,  and  it  was  certainly  all 
that  could  be  obtained  in  this  country.  Accordingly  1 determined 
not  to  lose  the  opportunity  of  giving  the  sanction  of  a most  im- 
pressive form  of  dedication  to  these  two  churches,  as  likely  to  do 
good  to  all  who  shared  in  the  service,  and  to  offend  nobody,  while 
if,  which  is  utterly  unlikely,  any  future  Governor  should  desecrate 
the  piles,  on  his  own  head  be  the  transgression. 

The  road  to  Dum  Dum  is  less  interesting  than  that  to  Barrack- 
poor  ; like  it,  it  is  a military  village,  the  principal  European  ar- 
tillery cantonment  in  India.  It  consists  of  several  long,  low 
ranges  of  building,  all  on  the  ground-floor,  ornamented  with  ve- 
randahs, the  lodging  of  the  troops,  and  some  small  but  elegant 
and  convenient  houses  occupied  by  the  officers,  adjoining  an  open 
space  like  the  “ Meidan”  or  large  plain  of  Calcutta,  which  is  ap- 
propriated to  the  practice  of  artillery.  The  Commandant,  Ge- 
neral Hardwicke,  with  whom  we  spent  the  day,  resides  in  a 
large  house,  built  on  an  artificial  mound,  of  considerable  height 
above  the  neighbouring  country,  and  surrounded  by  very  pretty 
walks  and  shrubberies.  The  house  has  a venerable  appearance, 
and  its  lower  story,  as  well  as  the  mound  on  which  it  stands,  is 
said  to  be  of  some  antiquity,  at  least  for  Bengal,  where  so  many 
powerful  agents  of  destruction  are  always  at  work,  that  no  ar- 
chitecture can  be  durable, — and  though  ruins  and  buildings  of 
apparently  remote  date  are  extremely  common,  it  would,  per- 
haps, be  difticalt  to  find  a single  edifice  150  years  old.  This 
building  is  of  brick,  with  small  windows  and  enormous  buttres- 
ses. The  upper  story,  which  is  of  the  style  of  architecture  usual 
in  Calcutta,  was  added  by  Lord  Clive,  who  also  laid  out  the  gar- 
dens, and  made  this  his  country  house.  We  here  met  a large 
party  at  breakfast,  and  afterwards  proceeded  to  the  church,  which 


CONSECRATION  OF  ST.  JAMES’S  CHURCH. 


65 


is  a very  pretty  building,  divided  into  aisles  by  two  rows  of  Doric 
pillars,  and  capable  of  containing  a numerous  congregation.  It 
was  now  filled  by  a large  and  very  attentive  audience,  composed 
of  the  European  regiment,  the  officers  and  their  families,  and 
some  visiters  from  Calcutta,  whom  the  novelty  of  the  occasion 
brought  thither.  The  consecration  of  the  cemetery  followed, 
wisely  here,  as  in  all  British  India,  placed  at  some  distance  from 
the  church  and  the  village.  On  our  return  to  General  Hard- 
wicke’s,  we  amused  ourselves  till  dinner  time  with  looking  over 
his  very  extensive  museum,  consisting  of  a great  number  of  in- 
sects in  excellent  preservation,  and  many  of  them  of  rare  beauty, 
collected  during  a long  residence  in  India,  or  sent  to  him  from 
most  of  the  Oriental  Islands ; a large  stuffed  collection  of  birds 
and  animals,  perfect  also,  notwithstanding  the  great  difficulty  of 
preserving  such  objects  here,  besides  some  living  animals,  a very 
pretty  antelope,  a vampire  bat,  a gibbon,  or  long-armed  ape,  a 
gentle  and  rather  pretty  animal  of  its  kind,  a cobra  di  capello, 
and  some  others.  The  vampire  bat  is  a very  harmless  creature, 
of  habits  entirely  different  from  the  formidable  idea  entertained 
of  it  in  England.  It  only  eats  fruits  and  vegetables,  and  indeed 
its  teeth  are  not  indicative  of  carnivorous  habits,  and  from  blood 
it  turns  away  when  offered  to  it.  During  the  day-time  it  is  of 
course  inert,  but  at  night  it  is  lively,  affectionate,  and  playful, 
knows  its  keeper,  but  has  no  objection  to  the  approach  and  touch 
of  others.  General  Hardwicke  has  a noble  collection  of  coloured 
drawings  of  beasts,  birds,  fishes,  and  insects,  to  the  amount  of 
many  hundreds,  drawn  and  arranged  with  great  beauty  and  regu- 
larity. We  returned  to  Calcutta  after  dinner. 

November  12. — I consecrated  St.  .James’s  Church,  before  an 
equally  numerous  congregation,  but  more  miscellaneous  in  its 
character  than  that  at  Dum  Dum,  and  containing  a large  number 
of  half  castes.  It  stands  in  the  centre  of  the  poorest  and  most 
numerous  Christian  population  of  Calcutta,  and  thus  attended  is 
indeed  most  valuable:  a great  many  sailors  also  come  to  this 
church.  Mr.  Hawtayne  officiates  here  ; he  can  boast  the  honour 
of  having  converted  a Hindoo  of  decent  acquirements  and  re- 
spectable caste,  who  was  baptized  a few  days  ago.  The  Portu- 
guese are  numerous,  and  have  two  large  churches  here.  The  one 
1 have  seen,  which  is  not  however  the  largest  of  the  two,  is  very 
handsome,  exactly  like  the  Roman  Catholic  churches  of  Europe  ; 
and  as  being  something  more  obscure  and  shadowy  in  its  interior, 
is  both  more  solemn  and  better  adapted  to  the  climate  than  the 
Protestant  places  of  worship.  Their  clergy  wear  their  canonical 
dress  of  white  cotton.  A Roman  Catholic  Bishop,  titularly  of 
Thibet,  whose  station  is  in  the  upper  provinces,  about  this  time 
passed  through  Calcutta.  I did  not  see  him,  but  he  called  on 

VoL.  I.— 9 


66 


HINDOO  FEAST. 


Lord  Amherst.  He  is  an  Italian  by  birth,  but  has  passed  almost 
his  whole  life  as  a priest  in  Brazil,  and  since  as  a bishop  in  the 
Portuguese  settlements  of  Congo  and  Loango.  From  thence  a 
translation  must,  I should  have  thought,  have  been  a great  hap- 
piness, yet.  Lord  Amherst  said,  he  spoke  of  his  past  and  future 
prospects  with  a sort  of  doubtful  regret  and  uneasy  anticipation, 
and  seemed  to  stand  in  very  needless  fear  both  of  the  English  and 
native  governments.  He  is,  1 believe,  the  only  bishop  of  his 
church  in  this  country,  though  there  are  two  or  three  more  in  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  peninsula. 

November  18. — My  wife  went  to  a Nach  given  by  one  of  the 
wealthy  natives.  Baboo  RouplMl  Mullich,  whose  immense  house 
with  Corinthian  pillars  we  had  observed  more  than  once  in  our 
passage  along  the  Chitpoor  road.  She  has  given  a full  account 
of  it  in  her  journal."^  I was  kept  away  by  a regard  to  the  scru- 

* I joined  La^dy  Macnaghten  and  a large  party  this  evening  to  go  to  a Nach 
given  by  a rich  native,  Rouplall  Mullich,  on  the  opening  of  his  new  house. 
The  outside  was  brilliantly  illuminated,  and  as  the  building  is  a fine  one,  the 
effect  was  extremely  good.  The  crowd  without  the  gates  was  great.  We  were 
ushered  into  a large  hall,  occupying  the  centre  of  the  house,  round  which  run 
two  galleries  with  a number  of  doors  opening  into  small  apartments,  the  upper 
ones  being  for  the  most  part  inhabited  by  the  females  of  the  family,  who  were 
of  course  invisible  to  us,  though  they  were  able  to  look  down  into  the  hall 
through  the  Venitians.  This  hall  is  open  to  the  sky,  but  on  this,  as  on  all  pub- 
lic occasions,  it  was  covered  in  with  scarlet  cloth,  with  which  the  floor  was  also 
carpeted.  All  the  large  native  houses  are  built  on  this  principle,  and  the  fa- 
thers, sons,  and  grandsons,  with  their  respective  families,  live  together,  till  their 
numbers  become  too  great,  when  they  separate  like  the  patriarchs  of  old,  and 
find  out  new  habitations.  The  magnificence  of  the  building, — the  beautiful  pil- 
lars supporting  the  upper  galleries, — and  the  expensive  and  numerous  glass 
chandeliers  with  which  it  was  lighted, — formed  a striking  contrast  with  the  dirt, 
the  apparent  poverty,  and  the  slovenliness  of  every  part  that  was  not  prepared 
for  exhibition ; the  rubbish  left  by  the  builders  had  actually  never  been  removed 
out  of  the  lower  gallery, — the  banisters  of  the  stair-case,  in  itself  paltry,  were  of 
common  unpainted  wood,  and  broken  in  many  places,  and  I was  forced  to  tread 
with  care  to  avoid  the  masses  of  dirt  over  which  we  walked. 

On  entering  we  found  a crowd  collected  round  a songstress  of  great  reputa- 
tion, named  Viiki,  the  Catalani  of  the  east,  who  was  singing  in  a low  but  sweet 
voice  some  Hindoostanee  songs,  accompanied  by  inartificial  and  unmelodious 
native  music.  As  the  crowd  was  great,  we  adjourned  into  a small  room  open- 
ing out  of  the  upper  gallery,  where  we  sat  listening  to  one  song  after  another, 
devoured  by  swarms  of  mosquitoes,  till  we  were  heartily  tired,  when  her  place 
was  taken  by  the  Nach,  or  dancing  girls, — ^if  dancing  that  could  be  called  which 
consisted  in  strained  movements  of  the  arms,  head,  and  body,  the  feet,  though 
in  perpetual  slow  motion,  seldom  moving  from  the  same  spot.  Some  story  was 
evidently  intended  to  be  told  from  the  expression  of  their  countenances,  but  to 
me  it  was  quite  unintelligible.  I never  saw  public  dancing  in  England  so  free 
from  every  thing  approaching  to  indecency.  Their  dress  was  modesty  itself, 
nothing  but  their  faces,  feet,  and  hands,  being  exposed  to  view.  An  attempt  at 
buffoonery  next  followed,  ill  imagined,  and  worse  executed,  consisting  of  a bad 
imitation  of  English  country  dances  by  ill-dressed  men.  In  short,  the  whole 
exhibition  was  fatiguing  and  stupid, — nearly  every  chann  but  that  of  novelty 
being  wanting. 

To  do  us  great  honour,  wc  were  now  shown  into  another  room,  where  a sup- 


FREE  SCHOOL. 


67 


pies  of  the  Christian  and  Mohammedan  inhabitants  of  Calcutta, 
many  of  whom  look  on  all  these  Hindoo  feasts  as  indiscriminately 
idolatrous,  and  offered  in  honour  of  some  one  or  other  of  their 
deities.  The  fact  is,  that  there  are  some,  of  which  this  was  one, 
given  chiefly  if  not  entirely  to  Europeans  by  the  wealthy  Hindoos, 
in  which  no  religious  ceremony  is  avowed,  and  in  which  if  any 
idolatrous  offering  really  takes  place,  it  is  done  after  the  white 
guests  are  departed. 

About  this  time  I attended  the  first  meeting  of  the  Governors 
of  the  Free  School  which  had  occurred  since  my  arrival.  I,  on 
this  occasion,  saw  the  whole  establishment ; it  is  a very  noble 
institution,  consisting  of  a school  where  247  boys  and  girls  are 
lodged,  boarded,  and  clothed,  and  some  received  as  day  scholars. 
They  are  all  instructed  in  English,  reading,  writing,  cyphering, 
and  their  religious  faith  and  duties,  for  which  purpose  the  differ- 
ent catechisms  and  other  compendia  furnished  by  the  Society  for 
promoting  Christian  knowledge  are  employed.  Some  few  of  the 
day-scholars  are  Armenian  Christians,  whose  parents  object  to 
these  formulae ; and  there  are  one  or  two  Hindoos,  who  are  al- 
lowed to  attend,  and  who  also  stand  on  one  side  when  the  Cate- 
chism is  repeated,  though  they  say  the  Lord’s  Prayer  and  read 
the  Scriptures  without  scruple.  The  children  of  Roman  Catho- 
lics, of  whom  there  are  also  several,  apparently  make  no  such 
difficulties,  and  even  attend  church  with  the  rest  of  the  scholars. 
They  are  in  fact  so  ignorant  and  neglected,  that  many  of  them 
have  scarcely  any  idea  of  Christianity  but  what  they  acquire  here. 
The  girls’  school  is  a separate  building  of  somewhat  less  extent 
than  the  boys’ ; both  are  surrounded  by  good  compounds,  and 
built  on  the  highest  spot  on  this  flat  district. 

The  system  of  Dr.  Bell  is  pursued  in  these  schools,  except  that 
the  climate  requires  more  sitting  than  he  allows,  and  this  there- 
fore is  arranged  more  according  to  the  Lancasterian  system. 
The  boys  are  very  well  taught;  many  of  them  write  beautiful 
hands,  and  are  excellent  accountants,  for  both  which,  indeed,  they 
have  a strong  natural  turn.  Their  reading  is  not  so  good,  since 
in  fact  almost  all  of  them  have  to  learn  English  as  well  as  reading, 
it  being  a curious  fact  that  scarcely  any  children  brought  up  in 
this  country,  either  high  or  low,  speak  any  thing,  even  with  their 
parents,  but  the  broken  Hindoostanee,  and  vulgar  Bengalee,  which 
they  learn  from  their  nurses  ; while  of  these  poor  children,  most 
have  Bengalee  mothers.  They  exhibit,  according  to  the  head- 
master, most  of  them  considerable  quickness,  and  a good  memory  ; 

per  table  was  laid  out  for  a select  few,  and  I was  told  the  great  supper-room  was 
well  supplied  with  eatables.  I returned  home  between  twelve  and  one  much 
tired,  and  npt  the  least  disposed  to  attend  another  Nach. — Extract  from  Editor’’ $ 
Journal, 


68 


BOTANICAL  GARDEN. 


but  are  deficient,  when  compared  with  English  boys  of  the  same 
age  and  rank  in  life,  in  common  sense,  courage,  and  honesty,  as 
well  as  in  bodily  strength.  They  seldom  fight,  and  are  much 
afraid  of  pain,  but  when  provoked  scold  each  other  most  fluently, 
and  use  very  indecent  and  bad  language.  This  is  a crime  which 
they  but  too  naturally  learn  from  their  heathen  neighbours,  and 
for  which  it  is  most  frequently  necessary  to  punish  them.  The 
next  most  frequent  crime  is  theft  from  each  other.  Lying,  to 
conceal  their  faults,  and  under  fear  of  punishment,  is  also  very 
prevalent ; but  on  this  I cannot  lay  much  stress,  since  even  in 
English  schools,  among  little  boys  of  the  lower  rank,  I know  it 
is  so  common  as  hardly  to  be  exceeded. 

Leprosy,  in  both  its  most  formidable  kinds,  elephantiasis,  and 
leontiasis,  are  said  to  be  almost  as  common  here  as  in  Syria  and 
Arabia ; and  I have  seen  instances  of  both  kinds  among  the 
beggars  in  the  streets,  though  certainly  not  so  many  as  the  accounts 
which  1 had  heard  would  have  led  me  to  expect.  The  swollen 
legs  of  the  former  complaint  I have  noticed  in  three  or  four  excur- 
sions ; of  the  latter  only  two  instances  have  occurred  to  me — one 
a miserable  native  beggar,  the  other  an  European  of  the  lower 
rank.  The  first  has  lost  all  his  fingers,  his  nose,  and  several  of 
his  toes  ; the  second  is  of  a hideous  mealy  white  complexion. 
Among  Europeans  it  is  allow^ed  to  be  very  unusual,  but  when  it 
comes,  it  answers  in  all  respects  to  the  fatal  disease  described  by 
Michaelis  in  his  “ Ammerkungen  fiber  die  Mosaische  Gericht,” 
&c.  and  can  be  only  palliated  and  a little  delayed  in  its  course,  by 
any  remedies  which  medicine  can  supply. 

Mov,  20. — We  went  to  see  the  Botanical  Garden  with  Lady 
Amherst.  Captain  Manning  took  us  down  in  his  ship’s  cutter  to 
the  “ Ghat,”  or  landing  place,  at  the  Garden  Reach,  which  is  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  where  we  met  Lady  and  Miss 
Amherst,  who  were  waiting  for  us  with  one  of  the  Governor’s  boats. 
Of  these  there  are  two  ; the  largest  is  called  the  Sunamookee,  and 
is  a splendid  but  heavy  gilt  and  painted  barge,  rigged  like  a ketch, 
with  a dining-room  and  bed-room.  The  other,  on  which  we  were 
now  to  embark,  is  the  “ Feel  Churra,”  elephant  bark, from  having 
its  head  adorned  with  that  of  an  elephant,  with  silver  tusks.  It  is 
a large,  light,  and  beautiful  canoe,  paddled  by  twenty  men,  who 
sit  with  their  faces  towards  the  head,  with  one  leg  hanging  over 
the  side  of  the  boat,  and  the  great  toe  through  a ring  fastened  to 
its  side.  They  keep  time  with  their  paddles,  a>,d  join  occasionally 
in  chorus  with  a man  who  stands  in  the  middle,  singing  what  I 
was  assured  were  verses  of  his  own  composition  : sometimes 
amatory,  sometimes  in  praise  of  the  British  nation,  the  ‘‘  Company 
Sahib,”  and  the  Governor-General ; and  in  one  or  two  instances 
were  narrations  of  different  victories  gained  by  our  troops  in  India. 


BOTANIC  GARDEN. 


69 


The  tunes  of  many  of  them  are  simple  and  pleasing,  but  the  poet 
has  not  a good  voice.  His  appearance  is  singular — a little,  thin, 
squinting  man,  extremely  conceited,  with  large  silver  manacles, 
like  those  of  women,  round  his  naked  ancles,  which  he  jingles  in 
cadence  to  his  story.  In  the  fore-part  of  the  boat  is  a small  cabin, 
very  richly  ornamented,  like  the  awnings  in  English  barges,  but 
enclosed  with  Venitian  blinds  ; and  between  this  and  the  head 
the  mace-bearers  of  the  Governor  stand.  The  Union  Jack  is 
hoisted  at  the  head  and  stern  of  the  boat,  and  the  Company’s  flag 
in  the  centre.  With  oars  it  would  go  at  a great  rate,  but  the  in- 
feriority of  paddles  was  now  fairly  proved,  by  the  far  more  rapid 
progress  of  Captain  Manning’s  boat,  though  quite  as  heavy,  and 
with  only  ten  rowers. 

The  Botanic  Garden  is  a very  beautiful  and  well-managed 
institution,  enriched,  besides  the  noblest  trees  and  most  beautiful 
plants  of  India,  with  a vast  collection  of  exotics,  chiefly  collected 
by  Dr.  Wallich  himself,  in  Nepaul,  Pulo  Penang,  Sumatra,  and 
Java,  and  increased  by  contributions  from  the  Cape,  Brazil,  and 
many  different  parts  of  Africa  and  America,  as  well  as  Australasia, 
and  the  South  Sea  Islands.  It  is  not  only  a curious,  but  a pictu- 
resque and  most  beautiful  scene,  and  more  perfectly  answers 
Milton’s  idea  of  Paradise,  except  that  it  is  on  a dead  flat  instead 
of  a hill,  than  any  thing  which  I ever  saw.  Among  the  exotics  I 
noticed  the  nutmeg,  a pretty  tree,  something  like  a myrtle,  wuth 
a beautiful  peach-like  blossom,  but  too  delicate  for  the  winter 
even  of  Bengal,  and  therefore  placed  in  the  most  sheltered  situa- 
tion, and  carefully  matted  round.  The  Sago-palm  is  a tree  of 
great  singularity  and  beauty,  and  in  a grove  or  avenue  produces 
an  effect  of  striking  solemnity,  not  unlike  that  of  Gothic  architec- 
ture. There  were  some  splendid  South  American  creepers,  some 
plantains  from  the  Malayan  Archipelago,  of  vast  size  and  great 
beauty  ; and,  what  excited  a melancholy  kind  of  interest,  a little 
wretched  oak,  kept  alive  with  difficulty  under  a sky  and  in 
a temperature  so  perpetually  stimulating,  which  allowed  it  no 
repose,  or  time  to  shed  its  leaves  and  recruit  its  powers  by  hy- 
bernation. Some  of  the  other  trees,  of  which  I had  formed  the 
greatest  expectations,  disappointed  me,  such  as  the  pine  of  New 
Caledonia,  which  does  not  succeed  here,  at  least  the  specimen 
which  was  shown  me  was  weak  looking  and  diminutive  in  com- 
parison with  the  prints  in  Cook’s  Voyage,  the  recollection  of 
which  is  strongly  imprinted  on  my  mind,  though  I have  not  looked 
at  them  since  I was  a boy.  Of  the  enormous  size  of  the  Adam- 
sonia,  a tree  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Gambia  and  Senegal,  I 
had  heard  much  ; the  elephant  of  the  vegetable  creation  ! I was, 
however,  disappointed.  The  tree  is  doubtless  wonderful,  and 
the  rapidity  of  its  growth  is  still  more  wonderful  than  its  bulk  ; 


70 


NATIVE  FEMALE  SCHOOLS. 


but  it  is  neither  particularly  tall  nor  stately.  Its  bulk  consists  in 
an  enormous  enlargement  of  its  circumference  immediately  above 
the  roots,  and  for  a comparatively  small  height  up  its  stem,  which 
rather  resembles  that  disease  of  the  leg  which  bears  the  elephant’s 
name  than  tallies  with  his  majestic  and  well-proportioned,  though 
somewhat  unwieldly  stature.  Dr.  Wallich  has  the  management  of 
another  extensive  public  establishment  at  Titty -ghur,  near  Bar- 
rackpoor,  of  the  same  nature  with  this,  but  appropriated  more  to 
the  introduction  of  useful  plants  into  Bengal.  He  is  himself  a 
native  of  Denmark,  but  left  his  country  young,  and  has  devoted 
his  life  to  natural  history  and  botany  in  the  east.  His  character 
and  conversation  are  more  than  usually  interesting  ; the  first  all 
frankness,  friendliness,  and  ardent  zeal  for  the  service  of  science  ; 
the  last  enriched  by  a greater  store  of  curious  information  relating 
to  India  and  the  neighbouring  countries,  than  any  which  I have 
yet  met  with. 

These  different  public  establishments  used  to  be  all  cultivated 
by  the  convicts  in  chains,  of  whom  I have  already  spoken.  In 
the  Botanic  Garden  their  labour  is  now  supplied  by  peasants 
hired  by  the  day  or  week,  and  the  exchange  is  found  cheap,  as 
well  as  otherwise  advantageous  and  agreeable  : the  labour  of 
freemen  here,  as  elsewhere,  being  infinitely  cheaper  than  that  of 
slaves. 

During  Lady  Amherst’s  progress  through  the  gardens,  I ob- 
served, that  besides  her  usual  attendants  of  gilt-sticks  and  maces, 
two  men  with  spears,  also  richly  gilt,  and  two  more  with  swords 
and  bucklers,  went  before  her.  This  custom  is,  so  far  as  I have 
seen  at  present,  confined  to  the  Governor  and  his  family ; but  I 
understand  it  used  to  be  the  case  with  most  persons  of  condition 
in  Calcutta. 

To  the  north  of  the  Botanical  Garden,  and  separated  from  it 
by  an  extensive  plantation  of  teak-trees,  stands  the  new  College 
founded  by  the  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel,  under 
the  management,  and  at  the  suggestion,  of  Bishop  Middleton,  in 
a beautiful  situation,  and  the  building,  from  a little  distance, 
beautiful  also,  in  the  Gothic  of  queen  Elizabeth’s  time. 

December  12. — 1 attended,  together  with  a large  proportion  of 
the  European  Society  of  Calcutta,  an  examination  of  the  Native 
Female  Schools,  instituted  by  Mrs.  Wilson,  and  carried  on  by 
her  together  with  her  husband  and  the  other  Missionaries  of  the 
Church  Missionary  Society.  The  progress  which  the  children 
as  well  as  the  grown  pupils  had  made,  was  very  creditable ; and 
it  may  show  how  highly  we  ought  to  appreciate  Mrs.  Wilson’s 
efforts,  when  I mention,  that  when  she  began  her  work  there  was 
no  known  instance  of  an  Indian  female  having  been  instructed  in 
reading,  writing,  or  sewing ; and  that  all  those  who  knew  most 


NATIVE  FEMALE  SCHOOLS. 


71 


of  the  country,  regarded  her  attempt  to  bring  them  together  into 
schools  as  idle  as  any  dream  of  enthusiasm  could  be.^  She  is  a 
sensible  and  amiable  young  woman,  with  patience  and  good 
temper  sufficient  to  conquer  most  obstacles,  and  who  has  acquired 
an  influence  over  these  poor  little  girls  and  their  parents,  as  well 
as  over  her  grown  pupils,  which  at  first  sight  seems  little  less 
than  magical.  It  was  very  pretty  to  see  the  little  swarthy  chil- 
dren come  forward  to  repeat  their  lessons,  and  show  their  work 
to  Lady  Amherst,  blushing  even  through  their  dark  complexions, 
with  their  muslin  veils  thrown  carelessly  round  their  slim  half- 
naked  figures,  their  black  hair  plaited,  their  foreheads  speckled 
with  white  or  red  paint,  and  their  heads,  necks,  wrists,  and  ankles 
loaded  with  all  the  little  finery  they  could  beg  or  borrow  for 
the  occasion.  Their  parents  make  no  objection  to  their  learning 
the  catechism,  or  being  taught  to  read  the  Bible,  provided  nothing 
is  done  which  can  make  them  lose  caste.  And  many  of  the 
Brahmins  themselves,  either  finding  the  current  of  popular 
opinion  too  strongly  in  favour  of  the  measures  pursued  for  them 
to  struggle  with,  or  really  influenced  by  the  beauty  of  the  lessons 
taught  in  Scripture,  and  the  advantage  of  giving  useful  know- 
ledge, and  something  like  a moral  sense  to  the  lower  ranks  of 
their  countrymen  and  countrywomen,  appear  to  approve  of  Mrs. 
Wilson’s  plan,  and  attend  the  examination  of  her  scholars.  There 
is  not  even  a semblance  of  opposition  to  the  efforts  which  we  are 
now  making  to  enlighten  the  Hindoos ; this  I had  some  days  ago 
an  excellent  opportunity  of  observing,  in  going  round  the  schools 
supported  by  the  Society  for  Promoting  Christian  Knowledge 
with  Mr.  Hawtayne,  and  seeing  with  how  much  apparent  cor- 
diality he  was  received,  not  only  by  the  children  themselves  and 
the  schoolmasters,  though  all  Hindoos  and  Mussulmans,  but  by 
the  parents  and  the  neighbouring  householders  of  whatever 
religion. 

On  all  these  points,  however,  and  on  the  great  change  which 
seems  to  be  taking  place  in  the  character  of  this  vast  nation,  or 
at  least  in  the  province  of  Bengal,  I have  written  at  considerable 
length  to  my  friends  in  England,  and  therefore  shall  not  repeat 
my  opinions  and  observations  here. 

December  25. — This  being  Christmas-day  I had  a large  con- 
gregation and  a great  number  of  communicants,  I think  above 
300.  Now,  and  at  Easter-day,  it  is  the  custom  in  Calcutta  to 
give  very  splendidly  to  the  communion  collection,  which  is  the 

* At  the  end  of  the  year  1826,  Mrs.  Wilson  had  about  600  scholars  in  various 
schools  in  the  suburbs  of  Calcutta.  When  the  Central  School  is  completed, 
these  will  all  be  concentrated.  At  the  commencement  of  this  experiment,  Mrs. 
Wilson  thought  herself  fortunate  when  she  had  obtained  the  attendance  of  six 
or  seven  children. — Ed. 


72 


STATE  OF  EUROPEAN  POOR. 


fund  for  the  support  of  the  European  poor  (for  there  are  no  poor’s 
rates),  and  is  managed  with  great  judgment  and  attention  by  a 
body  of  gentlemen,  calling  themselves  the  select  vestry  of  the 
Cathedral.  There  is  a good  deal  of  distress  among  the  Europeans 
and  half-castes  here,  arising  from  various  causes,  especially  from 
the  multitude  of  speculations  which  have  been  tried  of  late  years 
in  Indigo  and  other  establishments.  If  a man  once  begins  falling 
so  far  as  to  borrow  money,  it  is  hardly  possible  for  him  to  recover 
himself,  the  interest  of  loans  is  so  high,  and  the  necessary  expenses 
of  living  so  great,  while  a return  to  England,  except  in  forma 
pauperis  and  at  the  Company’s  cost,  is  too  expensive  to  be  thought 
of  by  persons  under  such  circumstances.  Nor  are  they  luxuries 
only  that  ruin  the  colonist  in  Calcutta.  House-rent  is  enormous, 
and  though  the  poorer  classes  of  Europeans  and  half-castes  live 
in  wretched  dwellings,  in  very  unwholesome  parts  of  the  town, 
they  are  often  obliged  to  pay  for  these  as  much  as  would  rent  an 
excellent  house  in  most  of  the  market  towns  of  England,  and 
would  furnish  them  with  very  tolerable  dwellings  even  in  Lon- 
don. Clothes,  too,  are  dear.  On  the  other  hand,  provisions,  by 
those  who  will  stoop  so  low,  are  to  be  had  for  almost  nothing 
from  the.  remains  of  the  dinners  of  the  principal  European  fami- 
lies, which  the  climate  will  not  suffer  to  be  kept  till  another  day, 
and  are  therefore  disposed  of  by  the  Khansamans  at  a very  low 
rate  indeed.  Still  there  is  much  real  want,  and  I apprehend  that 
a man  who  gives  as  a Christian  ought  to  give,  will  in  Calcutta 
find  little  opportunity  for  saving,  and  still  less  for  amusement  and 
needless  luxury.  Deus  faxit  ut  quod  debeo  absolvam  ! 

My  wife  went  a few  days  ago  on  a cruize  to  the  Sand  heads, 
for  the  benefit  of  our  child’s  health. 

Captain  Manning  joined  his  ship  at  Saugor  at  the  same  time, 
with  a promise  that  when  he  next  returns  here,  he  is  again  to 
become  our  guest.  He  is  an  excellent  man,  warm  and  single- 
hearted  beyond  most  I know,  of  considerable  talent  in  his  profes- 
sion and  in  mechanics,  and  of  very  pleasing  unaffected  manners. 
During  the  time  he  has  been  with  us,  1 have  had  an  opportunity 
of  knowing  his  character  thoroughly,  and  am  very  glad  to  be  able 
to  rank  him  among  the  number  of  my  friends. 


73 


CHAPTER  111. 

PAGODAS BARRACKPOOR SERAMPOOR  : DECOITS CHANDERNAGORE 

CHRISTMAS-BOXES IDOLS TITTY-GHUR SUTTEE BORE  IN  THE 

RIVER SALTPETRE CONFIRMATION — GOVERNOR-GENERAL’s  NATIVE 

LEVEE. 

On  the  27th  of  December  I paid  a visit  of  two  days  to  the 
Governor  at  Barrackpoor.  I went  by  water  early  enough  in  the 
morning  to  preach  to  the  congregation,  which,  for  want  of  a 
church,  assembles  in  the  great  hall  of  the  Government-house. 
The  distance  is  about  24  miles,  which,  with  a favourable  tide  and 
a good  set  of  rowers,  may  be  ascended  in  two  hours  and  a half, 
and  descended  in  less  than  two  hours.  The  river  continues  of 
nearly  the  same  width  as  at  Calcutta  5 its  banks  are  covered  with 
fruit-trees  and  villages,  with  many  very  handsome  pagodas,  of 
which  buildings  Calcutta  only  offers  some  small,  mean,  and  ne- 
glected specimens.  The  general  style  of  these  buildings  is,  a 
large  square  court,  sometimes  merely  surrounded  by  a low  wall, 
with  brick  balustrades,  plastered  so  as  to  resemble  stone,  or  in- 
dented at  the  top,  with  two  or  sometimes  four  towers  at  the 
angles,  generally,  in  the  present  day,  of  Grecian  architecture,  and 
ornamented  with  pilasters,  balustrades,  and  friezes.  In  the 
centre  of  the  principal  front  is,  for  the  most  part,  an  entrance  re- 
sembling, in  its  general  character  and  style  of  arrangement, 
the  beautiful  Propylaeum  at  Chester  castle.  When  the  pagoda 
adjoins  the  river,  a noble  flight  of  steps,  the  whole  breadth  of  the 
portico,  generally  leads  from  the  water  to  this  entrance.  Some- 
times the  whole  court  is  surrounded  by  a number  of  square 
^towers,  detached  by  a small  interval  from  each  other,  and  look- 
ing not  unlike  tea-car  isters,  having  such  a propylaeum  as  I have 
described  in  the  centre  of  the  principal  front. 

In  the  middle  of  the  quadrangle,  or  at  least  in  the  middle 
of  one  of  its  sides,  opposite  to  the  main  entrance,  is  the  temple 
of  the  principal  deity,  sometimes  octagonal,  with  pinnacles  and 
buttresses,  greatly  resembling  a Gothic  Chapter  House,  but  in 
some  instances  taller  and  larger,  with  three  domes,  one  large  in 
the  centre,  and  a smaller  at  each  side,  with  three  gilded  orna- 
ments on  the  summit  of  each,  extremely  like  the  old  churches  in 
Russia.  All  these  buildings  are  vaulted  with  brick,  and  the  man- 
ner in  which  the  Hindoos  raise  their  square  or  oblong  domes 
VoL.  I.— 10 


74 


PAGODAS. 


seems  to  me  simple  and  ingenious,  and  applicable  to  many  use- 
ful purposes. 

It  is  very  seldom  that  any  thing  like  a congregation  assembles 
in  these  temples.  A few  priests  and  dancing  women  live  in  them, 
whose  business  it  is  to  keep  the  shrines  clean,  to  receive  the  of- 
ferings of  the  individuals  who  come  from  time  to  time  to  worship, 
and  to  beat  their  gongs  in  honour  of  their  idols,  which  is  done 
three  or  four  times  in  the  twenty-four  hours.  On  more  solemn 
occasions,  however,  wealthy  Hindoos  give  money  to  illuminate 
the  building,  and  throw  up  fire-works,  which  are  to  be  had  in  Cal- 
cutta of  great  excellence  and  beauty.  And  in  one  instance,  which 
I omitted  to  mention  before,  on  the  celebration  of  the  festival  of 
the  goddess  Kali  at  the  pagoda  of  Kalighat,  near  Russipugla,  I 
saw  the  towers  at  the  corners  of  the  building  hung  round  with 
an  immense  quantity  of  gilt  paper,  tinsel,  and  flowers,  the  court 
crowded  with  coloured  plaster  statues  as  big  or  bigger  than 
life,  representing  Sepoys,  horse  and  foot,  drawn  up  in  the  act  of 
presenting  arms,  and  a figure  in  their  front  on  an  elephant  to 
represent  the  Governor-General,  also  in  the  act  of  taking  off  his 
cocked  hat.  In  the  middle  of  the  court,  and  before  the  gate  of 
the  sanctuary,  was  a very  large  temporary  pavilion,  I should  sup- 
pose 60  feet  long  by  about  20,  composed  of  coarse  white  cotton, 
but  glittering  with  ribands,  gilding,  tinsel,  and  flounces  of  vari- 
ous coloured  silks,  with  slender  gilded  pillars,  overshadowing  a 
vast  Plateau^  for  it  had  exactly  this  appearance,  of  plaster  filled 
with  painted  gods  and  goddesses,  Kali  and  all  her  family  with  all 
their  respective  heads  and  arms,  while  the  whole  building  rang 
with  the  clamour,  tinkling,  and  strumming  of  gongs,  bells,  and 
stringed  instruments.  Yet  there  were  not  many  worshippers 
even  then.  These  pagodas  are  often  endowed  with  lands  as 
well  as  rent-charges  on  lands,  though  some  of  them  depend  en- 
tirely on  voluntary  contributions.  Most  of  the  larger  ones  are 
kept  externally  very  neat,  and  diligently  whitewashed,  while  the 
Grecian  ornaments  of  which  I have  spoken,  and  which  must 
have  been  borrowed  from  the  Europeans,  are  so  many  evidences 
of  the  repairs  bestowed  on  them  occasionally  and  of  late  years. 

During  my  stay  at  Barrackpoor,  I witnessed  one  custom  of 
the  Hindoos  which  I could  not  comprehend;  a jackall  v\ras 
caught  in  a trap  and  killed,  and  as  soon  as  the  breath  was  out  of 
his  body,  all  the  servants  of  that  religion  ran  forward  to  wash 
their  hands  in  his  blood, — which  1 am  told  they  always  do  when- 
ever they  kill,  or  witness  the  death  of  a wild  beast. 

The  Indian  squirrel,  which  abounds  in  the  park,  is  smaller 
than  ours,  more  of  an  ash  colour,  with  two  black  and  white 
streaks  down  its  back  ; and  not  only  lives  in  trees,  but  in  the 


SERAMPOOR. 


75 


thatch  of  houses.  1 saw  several  playing  about  the  «aves  of  my 
bungalow,  and  at  first  mistook  them  for  rats,  which  at  a small 
distance  they  much  resemble. 

December  28. — I went  this  morning  to  return  a visit  which 
1 had  received  from  Colonel  Krefting,  the  Danish  Governor  of 
Serampoor,  a fine  old  veteran  who  has  been  above  40  years  resi^ 
dent  in  Bengal,  yet  still  preserves  the  apparently  robust  health 
and  florid  old  age  of  Norway,  of  which  country  he  is  a native: 
With  him  I found  his  secretary,  an  officer  of  the  name  of  Mans- 
bach,  also  a Norwegian,  whose  mother  I had  met  wdth  many 
years  back  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Rosencrantz  at  Hafslan,  on  the 
Falls  of  the  Glommer.  My  conversation  with  them  renewed 
some  very  agreeable  recollections  on  both  sides,  and  1 was  glad 
to  hear  of  the  health  of  some  of  those  who  had  formerly  shown 
me  kindness,  while  they  were  much  interested  by  my  account  of 
the  Knudtzons,  of  Penrhyn’s  travels  in  the  province  of  Bergen, 
and  of  the  glacier  which  he  had  discovered. 

Serampoor  is  a handsome  place,  kept  beautifully  clean,  and 
looking  more  like  an  European  town  than  Calcutta,  or  any  of  its 
neighbouring  cantonments.  The  guard,  which  was  turned  out 
to  receive  me,  consisted  of  perhaps  a dozen  Sepoys  in  the  red 
Danish  uniform  ; they  were  extremely  clean  and  soldier-like  look- 
ing men,  and  the  appearance  of  the  place  flourishing.  During 
the  long  war  in  which  England  was  engaged,  and  so  long  as  the 
Danes  remained  neutral,  it  was  really  so,  and  avast  deal  of  com- 
merce was  carried  on  under  the  benefit  of  its  flag.  At  the  time 
of  the  Copenhagen  rupture.  Lord  Minto  sent  two  or  three  com- 
panies of  infantry  to  take  possession  of  it.  Since  that  period  the 
settlement  has  grievously  declined,  and  so  much  the  faster,  be- 
cause no  stipulation  was  made  by  the  Danish  Government  at 
the  time  of  the  general  pacification,  for  the  continuance  of  a 
grant  of  200  chests  of  opium  yearly,  which,  previous  to  the  rup- 
ture, the  English  East  India  company  were  accustomed  to  fur- 
nish to  the  Danish  Government  of  Serampoor  at  the  cost  price, 
thereby  admitting  them  to  share  in  the  benefits  of  this  important 
monopoly.  This  grant  has  been  earnestly  requested  since  by 
Colonel  Krefting,  but  hitherto  without  success,  and  in  conse- 
quence he  complains  that  the  revenues  of  the  settlement  do  not 
meet  its  current  expenses,  and  that  the  Government  have  been 
utterly  unable  to  relieve  the  sufferers  by  the  late  inundation. 
Of  Colonel  Krefting  every  body  speaks  highly  *,  and  1 have  found 
great  sympathy  expressed  in  his  misfortunes  and  those  of  his  co- 
lony. 1 fear,  however,  that  Government  will  not  be  able  to  grant 
his  petition  without  authority  from  England,  though  they  show 
in  other  respects  what  kindness  and  favour  they  can. 

Many  persons  of  different  nations,  who  like  a cheaper  resi- 


76 


POLICE  AT  SERAMPOOR. 


dence  than  Calcutta,  take  houses  here.  One  of  these  was  the 
abode  of  Mr.  Brown,  many  years  senior  Presidency  Chaplain, 
and  the  friend  of  Henry  Martyn.  A deserted  pagoda  near  it, 
once  the  temporary  residence  of  the  latter,  attracted  my  atten- 
tion. It  was  in  Mr.  Brown’s  time  fitted  up  with  books,  and  a bed 
for  occasional  visiters  at  his  house,  but  is  now  quite  empty  and 
ruinous. 

The  administration  of  Serampoor,  as  it  respects  the  police,  is 
extremely  good,  and  does  much  credit  to  Colonel  Krefting  and  his 
Danish  magistrates.  During  the  late  inundation  he  was  called 
on  for  more  vigorous  measures  than  usual,  since  a numerous  band 
of  Decoits,”  or  river-pirates,  trusting  to  the  general  confusion 
and  apparently  defenceless  state  of  the  place,  attacked  his  little 
kingdom,  and  began  to  burn  and  pillage  with  all  the  horrors  which 
attend  such  inroads  in  this  country.  The  Colonel  took  the  field 
at  the  head  of  his  dozen  Sepojs,  his  silver-sticks,  police-men,  and 
sundry  volunteers,  to  the  amount  of  perhaps  30,  killed  some  of 
the  ruffians,  and  took  several  prisoners,  whom  he  hanged  next 
morning,  without  deigning  to  ask  aid  from  his  powerful  neighbours 
at  Barrackpoor. 

From  Serampoor  I proceeded  to  Chandernagore,  where  1 had 
also  to  return  a visit  to  Monsieur  Pelissier,  the  F rench  Governor. 
It  is,  I think,  a smaller  town  than  the  former,  and  with  a less 
striking  appearance  from  the  river  ; the  houses  are  mostly  small, 
and  the  streets  presented  a remarkable  picture  of  solitude  and 
desertion.  I saw  no  boats  loading  or  unloading  at  the  quay,  no 
porters  with  burdens  in  the  streets,  no  carts,  no  market  people, 
and  in  fact  only  a small  native  bazar,  and  a few  dismal  looking 
European  shops.  In  the  streets  I met  two  or  three  Europeans 
smoking  segars,  and  apparently  with  little  to  do,  having  almost 
all  the  characteristic  features  and  appearance  of  Frenchmen. 

I had  half  an  hour’s  very  agreeable  conversation  with  the 
Governor,  and  promise  myself  much  pleasure  from  his  acquaint- 
ance. He  is  only  just  arrived  at  this  place  from  Pondicherry, 
where  he  had  passed  several  years,  and  of  which  he  seems  very 
fond  ; of  the  climate  of  Bengal  he  complains  as  being  too  hot  and 
too  cold,  and  says  that  his  family  have  suffered  in  their  healths 
during  their  residence  here. 

I had  about  this  time  an  opportunity  of  observing  a custom 
which  prevails  with  different  classes  of  Hindoos  and  Mussulmans, 
of  making  presents  to  their  masters  or  superiors  at  Christmas  of 
fruit,  game,  fish,  pastry,  and  sweetmeats.  Some  gifts  of  this  sort 
came  to  us  from  different  Baboos  of  our  acquaintance.  Our  head 
servants  sent  presents  of  plum-cakes,  fish,  and  fruit ; and  even 
our  poor  bearers  came  in  a body,  their  faces  decorated  with  an 
extra  quantity  of  raddle,  chalk,  and  tin  foil,  to  beg  my  accept- 


HINDOO  IDOLS. 


77 


ance  of  a basket  of  plantains  and  oranges.  The  outer  gates  of 
most  of  the  houses  in  Calcutta  and  Chowringhee  are  decorated 
with  garlands  of  flowers,  tinsel,  and  gilt  paper.  These  Christmas- 
boxes  are  said  to  be  an  ancient  custom  here,  and  I could  almost 
fancy  that  our  name  of  box  for  this  particular  kind  of  present, 
the  derivation  of  which  is  not  very  easy  to  trace  in  the  European 
languages,  is  a corruption  of  ‘‘  Buckshish,”  a gift  or  gratuity,  in 
Turkish,  Persian,  and  Hindoostanee.  There  have  been  undoubt- 
edly more  words  brought  into  our  language  from  the  East  than  I 
used  to  suspect.  “ Cash,”  which  here  means  small  money,  is  one 
of  these ; but  of  the  process  of  such  transplantation  I can  form 
no  conjecture. 

January  1,  1824. — I this  day  preached  at  the  cathedral,  it 
being  an  old  and  good  custom  in  India  always  to  begin  the  year 
with  the  solemn  observation  of  the  day  of  the  Circumcision  ; there 
was  a good  congregation.  1 received  to-day  an  explanation  of 
some  very  singular  images,  which  stand  in  different  streets  of 
Calcutta  and  its  neighbourhood,  representing  a female  figure,  or 
at  least  the  figure  of  a youth,  rudely  carved  in  wood  and  painted, 
standing  erect  on  the  back  of  a disproportionately  little  elephant, 
and  with  a monstrous  sort  of  spire  or  shrine  on  his  head.  They 
are  used,  it  appears,  as  a sort  of  hatchment,  being  erected  on  the 
death  of  wealthy  Hindoos,  near  their  dwelling  houses,  but,  differ- 
ing in  this  respect  from  hatchments,  are  generally  suffered  to 
remain  till  they  fall  in  pieces.  These  are  of  wood.  Most  of  the 
Hindoo  idols  are  of  clay,  and  very  much  resemble  in  composition, 
colouring,  and  execution,  though  of  course  not  in  form,  the  more 
paltry  sort  of  images  which  are  carried  about  in  England  for  sale 
by  the  Lago  di  Como  people.  At  certain  times  of  the  year,  great 
number  of  these  are  in  fact  hawked  about  the  streets  of  Calcutta 
in  the  same  manner,  on  men’s  heads.  This  is  before  they  have 
been  consecrated,  which  takes  place  on  their  being  solemnly 
washed  in  the  Ganges  by  a Brahmin  Pundit.  Till  this  happens, 

' they  possess  no  sacred  character,  and  are  frequently  given  as  toys 
to  children,  and  used  as  ornaments  of  rooms,  which  when  hal- 
lowed they  could  not  be,  without  giving  great  offence  to  every 
Hindoo  who  saw  them  thus  employed.  1 thought  it  remarkable 
that  though  most  of  the  male  deities  are  represented  of  a deep 
brown  colour,  like  the  natives  of  the  country,  the  females  are 
usually  no  less  red  and  white  than  our  porcelain  beauties  as  ex- 
hibited in  England.  But  it  is  evident,  from  the  expressions  of  most 
of  the  Indians  themselves,  from  the  style  of  their  amatory  poetry, 
and  other  circumstances,  that  they  consider  fairness  as  a part  of 
beauty,  and  a proof  of  noble  blood.  They  do  not  like  to  be  called 
black ; and  though  the  Abyssinians,  who  are  sometimes  met  with 
in  the  country,  are  very  little  darker  than  they  themselves  are, 


78 


PORTUGUESE  IN  INDIA. 


their  jest  books  are  full  of  taunts  on  the  charcoal  complexion  of 
the  “ Hubshee.”  Much  of  this  has  probably  arisen  from  their 
having  been  so  long  subjected  to  the  Moguls,  and  other  conquer- 
ors originally  from  more  northern  climates,  and  vrho  continued  to 
keep  up  the  comparative  fairness  of  their  stock  by  frequent  im- 
portation of  northern  beauties.  India  too  has  been  always,  and 
long  before  the  Europeans  came  hither,  a favourite  theatre  for 
adventurers  from  Persia,  Greece,  Tartary,  Turkey,  and  Arabia, 
all  white  men,  and  all  in  their  turn  possessing  themselves  of 
wealth  and  power.  These  circumstances  must  have  greatly  con- 
tributed to  make  a fair  complexion  fashionable.  It  is  remarkable, 
however,  to  observe  how  surely  all  these  classes  of  men  in  a few 
generations,  even  without  any  intermarriage  with  the  Hindoos, 
assume  the  deep  olive  tint,  little  less  dark  than  a Negro,  which 
seems  natural  to  the  climate.  The  Portuguese  natives  form  unions 
among  themselves  alone,  or  if  they  can  with  Europeans.  Yet  the 
Portuguese  have,  during  a three  hundred  years’  residence  in  India, 
become  as  black  as  Cadres.  Surely  this  goes  far  to  disprove  the 
assertion,  which  is  sometimes  made,  that  climate  alone  is  insuffi- 
cient to  account  for  the  difference  between  the  Negro  and  the 
European.  It  is  true  that  in  the  Negro  are  other  peculiarities 
which  the  Indian  has  not,  and  to  which  the  Portuguese  colonist 
shows  no  symptom  of  approximation,  and  which  undoubtedly  do 
not  appear  to  follow  so  naturally  from  the  climate,  as  that  swarthi- 
ness of  complexion  which  is  the  sole  distinction  between  the 
Hindoo  and  the  European.  But  if  heat  produces  one  change, 
other  peculiarities  of  climate  may  produce  other  and  additional 
changes,  and  when  such  peculiarities  have  3 or  4000  years  to 
operate  in,  it  is  not  easy  to  fix  any  limits  to  their  power.  I am 
inclined  after  all,  to  suspect  that  our  European  vanity  leads  us 
astray  in  supposing  that  our  own  is  the  primitive  complexion, 
which  I should  rather  suppose  was  that  of  the  Indian,  half  way 
between  the  two  extremes,  and  perhaps  the  most  agreeable  to  the 
eye  and  instinct  of  the  majority  of  the  human  race.  A colder 
climate,  and  a constant  use  of  clothes,  may  have  blanched  the  skin 
as  effectually  as  a burning  sun  and  nakedness  may  have  tanned 
it ; and  1 am  encouraged  in  this  hypothesis  by  observing  that  of 
animals  the  natural  colours  are  generally  dusky  and  uniform, 
while  whiteness  and  a variety  of  tint  almost  invariably  follow 
domestication,  shelter  from  the  elements,  and  a mixed  and  un- 
natural diet.  Thus  while  hardship,  additional  exposure,  a greater 
degree  of  heat,  and  other  circumstances  with  which  we  are  un- 
acquainted, may  have  deteriorated  the  Hindoo  into  a Negro,  oppo- 
site causes  may  have  changed  him  into  the  progressively  lighter 
tints  of  the  Chinese,  the  Persian,  the  Turk,  the  Russian,  and  the 
Englishman. 


FIRE-WORKS  AT  SERAMPOOR.—SUTTEE, 


79 


My  wife  and  little  girl  having  returned  from  their  cruize  to 
the  Sandheads,  much  benefited  by  the  change  of  air,  we  went, 
on  the  7th  of  January,  1824,  to  Titty-ghur,  a convenient  and 
comfortable  house,  in  a beautiful  situation,  most  kindly  lent  to  us 
for  a couple  of  months  by  Dr.  Wallich.  It  is  on  tbe  banks  of  the 
river,  about  two  miles  from  Barrackpoor,  and  in  the  middle  of 
the  Company’s  experimental  botanic  garden.  The  weather  is 
now  very  delightful,  and  we  are  comparatively  free  from  the 
dense  fogs  which  at  this  season  beset  Calcutta  and  Chowringhee. 

On  the  10th  of  January  there  was  a display  of  fire-works  at 
Serampoor,  in  honour  of  the  patron  saint  at  the  Roman  Catholic 
chapel,  which  we  saw  to  great  advantage  from  our  bholiah,  sta- 
tioned opposite  to  it  on  the  river.  They  were,  we  were  told, 
procured  from  China  by  one  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Portuguese 
merchants.  I thought  them  very  good,  and  the  forms  of  most  of 
them  were  new  to  me.  One  was  a striking  imitation  of  the  foliage 
of  a tuft  of  bamboos,  being  in  fact  really  a cluster  of  long  and 
slender  bamboos,  with  fire-works  affixed  to  them,  which  very 
beautifully  gave  the  effect  of  the  graceful  curve  of  that  elegant 
plant,  and  even  the  form  of  its  leaves.  There  was  also  another, 
a sort  of  Roman  candle,  which  sent  up  flames,  in  shape  and  ac- 
tion, as  well  as  the  noise  they  emitted,  not  unlike  large  pigeons, 
and  therefore  called  Chinese  doves.  A great  crowd  of  boats  and 
people  were  on  the  river  to  see  these  fire-works,  which  are  a very 
popular  exhibition  with  the  lower  orders. 

Returning  one  day  from  Calcutta,  I passed  by  two  funeral 
piles,  the  one  preparing  for  a single  person,  the  other  nearly  con- 
sumed, on  which  a Suttee  had  just  taken  place.  For  this  latter 
purpose  a stage  had  been  constructed  of  bamboos  about  eighteen 
inches  or  two  feet  above  the  ground,  on  which  the  dead  body 
had  been  laid,  and  under  which,  as  my  native  servants  told  me, 
the  unhappy  widow  had  been  stretched  out,  surrounded  with 
combustibles.  Only  a heap  of  glowing  embers  was  now  seen 
here,  besides  two  long  bamboos,  which  seemed  intended  to  keep 
down  any  struggles  which  nature  might  force  from  her.  On  the 
stage  was  what  seemed  a large  bundle  of  coarse  cotton  clotb, 
smoking,  and  partially  blackened,  emitting  a very  offensive  smell. 
This  my  servants  said  was  the  husband’s  body.  The  woman 
they  expressly  affirmed  had  been  laid  below  it,  and  ghee  poured 
over  her  to  hasten  her  end,  and  they  also  said  the  bamboos  had 
been  laid  across  her.  I notice  these  particulars,  because  they 
differ  from  the  account  of  a similar  and  recent  ceremony,  given 
by  the  Baptist  missionaries,  in  which  it  is  said  that  the  widow  is 
laid  by  the  side  of  her  husband,  on  the  platform,  with  her  arm 
embracing  him,  and  her  face  turned  to  him.  Here  1 asked 
repeatedly,  and  received  a different  account.  Yet  the  mission- 


80 


SUTTEES. 


aries  have  had  every  possible  opportunity  of  learning,  if  not  of 
actually  witnessing,  all  the  particulars  of  the  ceremony  which 
they  describe.  Perhaps  these  particulars  vary  in  different  in- 
stances. At  all  events  it  is  a proof  how  hard  it  is  to  gain,  in  this 
country,  accurate  information  as  to  facts  which  seem  most  obvious 
to  the  senses.  I felt  very  sick  at  heart,  and  regretted  1 had  not 
been  half  an  hour  sooner,  though  probably  my  attempts  at  per- 
suasion would  have  had  no  chance  of  success.  I would  at  least 
have  tried  to  reconcile  her  to  life.  There  were  perhaps  twenty 
or  thirty  people  present,  with  about  the  same  degree  of  interest, 
though  certainly  not  the  same  merrirnent,  as  would  have  been 
called  forth  by  a bon-fire  in  England.  I saw  no  weeping,  and 
heard  no  lamentations.  But  when  the  boat  drew  near,  a sort  of 
shout  was  raised,  I believe  in  honour  of  Brahma,  which  was  met 
by  a similar  outcry  from  my  boatmen. 

January  15. — Dr.  Marshman,  the  Baptist  Missionary  from 
Serampoor,  dined  with  me.  Dr.  Carey  is  too  lame  to  go  out. 
The  talents  and  learning  of  these  good  men  are  so  well  known  in 
Europe,  that  I need  hardly  say  that,  important  as  are  the  points 
on  which  we  differ,  I sincerely  admire  and  respect  them,  and 
desire  their  acquaintance.  In  speaking  of  the  Suttee  of  yester- 
day, Dr.  Marshman  said  that  these  horrors  are  of  more  frequent 
occurrence  within  these  few  last  years,  than  when  he  first  knew 
Bengal ; an  increase  which  he  imputes  to  the  increasing  luxury 
of  the  higher  and  middling  classes,  and  to  their  expensive  imita- 
tion of  European  habits,  which  make  many  families  needy,  and 
anxious  to  get  rid,  by  any  means,  of  the  necessity  of  supporting 
their  mothers,  or  the  widows  of  their  relations.  Another  frequent 
cause  is,  he  thinks,  the  jealousy  of  old  men,  who  having  married 
young  wives,  still  cling  to  their  exclusive  possession  even  in 
death,  and  leave  injunctions,  either  with  their  wives  themselves 
to  make  the  offering,  or  with  their  heirs  to  urge  them  to  it.  He 
is  strongly  of  opinion  that  the  practice  might  be  forbidden  in 
Bengal,  where  it  is  of  most  frequent  occurrence,  without  exciting 
any  serious  murmurs.  The  women,  he  is  convinced,  would  all 
be  loud  in  their  praises  of  such  a measure ; and  even  of  the  men, 
so  few  would  have  an  immediate  interest  in  burning  their  wives, 
mothers,  or  sisters-in-law,  that  they  would  not  set  themselves 
against  what  those  who  had  most  influence  with  them  would  be 
so  much  interested  in  having  established.  The  Brahmins,  he 
says,  have  no  longer  the  power  and  popularity  which  they  had 
when  he  first  remembers  India;  and  among  the  laity  many  power- 
ful and  wealthy  persons  agree,  and  publicly  express  their  agree- 
ment, with  Rammohun  Roy,  in  reprobating  the  custom,  which  is 
now  well  known  to  be  not  commanded  by  any  of  the  Hindoo 
sacred  books,  though  some  of  them  speak  of  it  as  a meritorious 


BORE  IN  THE  GANGES. 


81 


sacrifice.  A similar  opinion  to  that  of  Dr.  Marshman  I have 
heard  expressed  by  the  senior  Judge  of  the  Sudder  Dewannee 
Adawlut.  Others,  however,  of  the  members  of  the  Government 
think  differently.  They  conceive  that  the  likeliest  method  to 
make  the  custom  more  popular  than  it  is,  would  be  to  forbid  and 
make  it  a point  of  honour  with  the  natives  ; that,  at  present,  no 
woman  is  supposed  to  be  burnt  without  her  own  wish  certified 
to  the  magistrate,  that  there  are  other  and  less  public  ways  to  die 
(on  that  account  more  liable  to  abuse  than  the  Suttees)  which 
might  be  resorted  to  if  this  were  forbidden,  and  that  if  we  desire 
to  convert  the  Hindoos,  we  should  above  all  things  be  careful  to 
keep  Government  entirely  out  of  sight  in  all  the  means  which  we 
employ,  and  to  be  even,  if  possible,  over  scrupulous  in  not  med- 
dling with,  or  impeding  those  customs  which,  however  horrid, 
are  become  sacred  in  their  estimation,  and  are  only  to  be  de- 
stroyed by  convincing  and  changing  the  popular  mind.  When 
Christian  schools  have  become  universal,  the  Suttee  will  fall  of 
itself.  But  to  forbid  it  by  any  legislative  enactment  would,  in 
their  opinion,  only  give  currency  to  the  notion,  that  we  mean  to 
impose  Christianity  on  them  by  force,  and  retard  its  progress  to 
an  almost  indefinite  period. 

January  21. — We  had  this  morning  an  opportunity  of  hearing 
the  remarkable  phenomenon,  not  uncommon  in  the  Ganges, 
called  the  Bore,  or  rush  of  the  spring-tide  up  the  river,  with  a 
great  elevation  of  wave,  and  tremendous  noise  and  rapidity. 
The  sound  resembled  that  of  a steam-boat,  but  was  infinitely 
louder ; we  were  awakened  by  it,  but  before  1 could  get  out,  it 
had  either  passed,  or  else,  as  it  always  runs  close  to  one  or  other 
of  the  sides  of  the  river,  the  high  crumbling  bank  prevented  my 
seeing  it.  Nothing  at  least  was  visible  but  the  water  shining 
beautifully  bright  under  a full  moon  in  a cloudless  sky,  though 
the  noise  continued  to  be  audible  for  some  time  longer. 

I went  this  day  to  Calcutta,  to  attend  the  meeting  of  the  Church 
Missionary  Society,  and  returned,  after  an  early  dinner,  with 
Archdeacon  Corrie. 

A very  beautiful  civet  cat  was  caught  this  morning  in  one  of 
the  walks  of  the  garden,  and  was  overpowered  by  a number  of  men 
and  dogs,  after  a severe  chase  from  one  tree  to  the  other,  and  a 
gallant  resistance.  It  is  a very  pretty  animal,  like  a cat  in  all  re- 
spects except  its  size,  which  nearly  equals  that  of  a small  fox, 
and  its  long  pointed  nose.  The  common  wild  cat  often  occurs 
in  this  neighbourhood,  and  the  civet  is  not  unfrequent.  During 
the  fruit  season,  the  garden  is  sadly  pillaged  by  swarms  of  mon- 
keys, which  then  make  their  appearance  from  the  jungles,  as  well 
as  by  the  huge  bats,  which  entirely  live  on  fruits  and  vegetables, 
their  vampire  habits,  as  I have  before  observed,  being  utterly 

VoL.  I.~l  I 


82 


SALT  PETRE— CONFIRMATION. 


fabulous.  Though  they  then  abound,  not  one  is  now  to  be 
seen  : probably  sleep  during  the  cool  weather. 

There  is  another  powder-mill  in  this  neighbourhood  besides 
those  near  Garden  Reach,  and  half  way  between  this  place  and 
Calcutta.  The  immense  quantities  of  salt  petre  found  in  Bengal 
account  for  their  frequency.  The  tendency  of  the  soil  to  pro- 
duce it  is  very  annoying  to  the  builders  and  the  occupants  of 
houses.  It  can  scarcely  be  prevented  from  encroaching  in  a few 
years  on  the  walls  and  floors  of  all  lower  rooms,  so  as  to  render 
them  unwholesome,  and  eventually  uninhabitable.  Half  the 
houses  in  Calcutta  are  in  this  predicament,  and  their  ground- 
floors  useless.  Cellars  are  unknown  in  this  part  of  India. 

January  25. — On  my  return  from  Calcutta  this  morning,  where 
I went  to  preach  at  the  cathedral,  I found  that  I had  a fresh  rea- 
son for  thankfulness  to  God  in  my  wife’s  safety,  and  the  birth  of 
a fine  and  promising  little  girl,  to  the  exceeding  delight  of  our 
dear  Emily,  who  rejoices  in  her  new  play -thing,  kissing  her  little 
sister  over  and  over  again.  God  grant  that  they  may  both  grow 
up  in  mutual  love  and  equal  virtue  ! 

February  2. — I went  to  Calcutta  for  a Confirmation,  which  I 
held  the  next  day  in  the  Cathedral ; the  number  of  persons  who 
attended  were  236, — a good  many  more  than  were  expected,  as 
barely  two  years  have  elapsed  since  the  last  performance  of  the 
ceremony  by  Bishop  Middleton.  Most  of  them  were  half  castes  ; 
but  there  were,  however,  several  officers,  and  from  20  to  30  Eu- 
ropean soldiers,  and  three  grown  up  women  of  the  upper  ranks. 
They  were  apparently  very  seriously  impressed  with  the  cere- 
mony, which  to  me,  I will  own,  was  almost  overpowering. 
God  Almighty  grant  his  indulgence  to  me,  and  his  blessing  on 
those  for  whom  I then  prayed,  for  Jesus  Christ’s  sake  ! 

February  5. — I returned  to  Titty-ghur.  I had  a curious  visit  a 
few  days  ago  from  a person  who  previously  announced  himself  by 
letter  as  the  Rev.  Jacob  Mecazenas,  lately  arrived  from  Rome, 
and  anxious  to  wait  upon  me.  I asked  him  to  dinner  two  days 
after,  but  to  my  dismay,  about  10  o’clock  on  the  morning  of  the 
appointed  day,  instead  of  the  smooth  well-spoken  Jesuit  I had 
made  up  my  mind  to  expect,  I heard  a thundering  voice  in  the 
portico,  and  was  greeted  by  a tall  stout  ecclesiastic  with  a ven- 
erable beard,  a long  black  cossac,  a calotte,  and  a triangular  hat, 
who  announced  himself  as  Father  Mecazenas  of  the  Dominican 
order,  and  come  to  pass  the  day  with  me!  I found-he  was  a na- 
tive of  Teflis,  but  brought  up  in  one  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Ar- 
menian Convents  established  in  Asia,  and  that  he  had  passed  his 
latter  years  at  Rome.  He  spoke  wretched  Italian,  a very  little 
French,  no  English  or  Hindoostanee,  and  scarcely  more  than  a 
few  words  of  Latin.  I had  an  engagement  at  the  Government 


FATHER  MECAZENAS. 


83 


House  during  a part  of  the  morning,  which  I pleaded,  and  hunt- 
ed about  to  find  if  I had  any  books  which  could  enable  the  poor 
man  to  pass  his  time  rather  less  irksomely  in  my  absence,  but  I 
found  that  the  few  Latin  books  which  I had  unpacked  were  in 
Calcutta,  that  I had  no  Italian  of  any  kind,  and  that  the  old 
French  books  which  I could  get  at,  were  the  Tragedies  of  Vol- 
taire,— a harmless  work  certainly,  but  bearing  so  formidable  a 
name  that  I doubted  whether,  even  if  he  could,  he  would  read 
them.  I was  not  mistaken,  the  name  was  enough  for  him,  and 
though  he  made  no  objection  in  my  presence,  I was  told  that  no 
sooner  was  my  back  turned  than  with  a deep  groan  he  laid  them 
down,  and  desired  a servant  to  take  them  away.  Accordingly  he 
passed  the  greater  part  of  the  morning  in  walking  up  and  down 
the  room,  and  looking  out  at  the  boats  on  the  Hooghly.  I pitied 
the  poor  man,  and  when  I had  finished  my  necessary  business,  on 
my  return  renewed  my  conversation  with  him,  which  got  on  bet- 
ter than  I at  first  expected.  I asked  him  some  questions  about 
Georgia  and  Armenia,  but  the  most  which  1 got  was  a list  of  the 
different  tribes  of  Caucasus,  a specimen  of  the  Georgian  vocabu- 
lary for  the  most  common  articles,  and  the  Georgian  alphabet, 
which  he  wrote  out  for  me,  and  which  1 was  surprised  to  find 
differ  very  materially  from  the  Sclavonic,  the  Armenian,  and  every 
other  with  which  1 am  acquainted.  At  last  dinner  came  to  his 
relief  as  well  as  mine,  and  he  soon  began  to  display  the  appetite 
of  a hardy  mountaineer.  I have  seldom  seen  any  one  make  such 
quick  despatch  with  whatever  w^as  put  on  his  plate,  and  he  made 
a no  less  good  use  of  the  three  French  words  with  which  he 
seemed  most  familiar,  “ a votre  sante  !”  tossing  down  one  bum- 
per of  wine  after  another,  laughing  all  the  time  with  the  voice  of 
a lion,  till  I began  to  fear  some  exhibition  would  follow,  not  very 
creditable  either  to  the  Church  of  Rome  or  to  the  table  of  a 
Protestant  Bishop.  He  was,  however,  too  strong  to  be  affected 
by  what  he  drank,  except  that  it  a little  increased  his  fluency  and 
' noisy  hilarity ; and  as  soon  as  the  cloth  was  fairly  off  the  table,  I 
thought  it  high  time  to  call  for  coffee.  1 had  been  all  this  time  ex- 
pecting to  be  asked  to  subscribe  to  something  or  other,  since,  the 
dinner  always  excepted,  I could  not  perceive  why  else  the  good 
man  should  have  shown  so  much  anxiety  for  my  acquaintance ; 
and  accordingly  at  length  he  rose,  brought  out  an  immense  paper 
book,  and  after  a short  complimentary  speech,  solicited  my  pa- 
tronage to  a fund  he  was  employed  in  collecting,  to  repair  the 
temple  of  Fortuna  Virilis,  in  Rome,  which  was,  he  said,  appro- 
pr  ated  as  a hospital  and  place  of  intruction  for  Armenian  and 
other  youths,  and  pilgrims,  but  had  been  grievously  injured  by 
certain  excavations  which  the  French  made  while  in  Rome,  in 
order  to  examine  the  nature  of  its  substruction  and  foundations. 


84 


NATIVE  LEVEE. 


His  paper  was  to  the  same  effect,  but  was  written  in  English,  and 
evidently  the  composition  of  some  of  the  Calcutta  native  writers. 
He  then  talked  of  credentials  from  Rome  ; but  though  I asked 
for  them,  both  in  Latin  and  Italian,  he  produced  none,  but  eva- 
ded the  question.  However,  had  he  produced  them,  he  would 
not  have  been  at  all  more  likely  to  gain  his  object  with  me,  since 
I neither  quite  believed  the  story  of  the  French  having  committed 
an  outrage  at  variance  with  their  general  conduct,  nor  did  I con- 
ceive myself  called  on  to  build  up  churches  for  the  members  of  a 
different  communion  in  Rome,  when  all  which  I can  do  is  likely 
to  fall  so  far  short  of  the  claims  of  charity  in  India.  If  the  poor 
man,  who  was  very  pressing,  had  asked  me  for  himself,  and  in 
the  capacity  which  I suspect  really  belonged  to  him,  of  a mendi- 
cant, he  would  have  fared  better.  As  it  was  I was  unrelenting, 
though  civil ; and  we  parted,  with  at  least  the  satisfaction  on  my 
part,  that  I had  given  him  a good  dinner. 

February  7. — I went  down  to  Calcutta  this  morning,  to  attend 
a “ Durbar,”  or  native  levee  of  the  Governor’s,  which  all  the 
principal  native  residents  in  Calcutta  were  expected  to  attend, 
as  well  as  the  vakeels  from  several  Indian  princes.  1 found  on 
my  arrival  the  levee  had  begun,  and  that  Lord  Amherst,  attend- 
ed by  his  aides-du-camp  and  Persian  secretary,  had  already 
walked  down  one  side,  where  the  persons  of  most  rank,  and  who 
were  to  receive  “ khelats,”  or  honorary  dresses,  were  stationed. 
I therefore  missed  this  ceremony,  hut  joined  him  and  walked 
round  those  to  whom  he  had  not  yet  spoken,  comprising  some 
persons  of  considerable  rank  and  wealth,  and  some  learned  men, 
travellers  from  different  eastern  countries,  who  each  in  turn 
addressed  his  compliments,  or  petitions,  or  complaints  to  the 
Governor.  There  were  several  whom  we  thus  passed  who  spoke 
English  not  only  fluently  but  gracefully.  Among  these  were  Ba- 
boo Ramchunder  Roy  and  his  four  brothers,  all  fine,  tall,  stout 
young  men,  the  eldest  of  whom  is  about  to  build  one  of  Mr. 
Shakespear’s  rope-bridges  over  the  Caramnasa. 

After  Lord  Amherst  had  completed  the  circle,  he  stood  on  the 
lower  step  of  the  throne,  and  the  visiters  advanced  one  by  one  to 
take  leave.  First  came  a young  Raja  of  the  Rajapootana  district, 
who  had  received  that  day  the  investiture  of  his  father’s  territo- 
ries, in  a splendid  brocade  khelat  and  turban ; he  was  a little,  pale, 
shy-looking  boy,  of  1 2 years  old.  Lord  Amherst,  in  addition  to 
these  splendid  robes,  placed  a large  diamond  aigrette  in  his  tur- 
ban, tied  a string  of  valuable  pearls  round  his  neck,  then  gave  him 
a small  silver  bottle  of  attar  of  roses,  and  a lump  of  pawn,  or  betel, 
wrapped  up  in  a plantain  leaf.  Next  came  forwards  the  “ vakeel,” 
or  envoy  of  the  Maharaja  Scindeah,  also  a boy,  not  above  sixteen, 
but  smart,  self-possessed,  and  dandy -looking.  His  khelat  and 


NATIVE  LEVEE. 


85 


presents  were  a little,  and  but  a little,  less  splendid  than  those  of 
his  precursor.  Then  followed  Oude,  Nagpoor,  Nepaul,  all  re- 
presented by  their  vakeels,  and  each  in  turn  honoured  by  similar, 
though  less  splendid,  marks  of  attention.  The  next  was  a Per- 
sian Khan,  a fine  military-looking  man,  rather  corpulent,  and  of 
a complexion  not  differing  from  that  of  a Turk,  or  other  southern 
Europeans,  with  a magnificent  black  beard,  and  a very  pleasing 
and  animated  address.  A vakeel  from  Sind  succeeded,  with  a 
high  red  cap,  and  was  followed  by  an  Arab,  handsomely  dressed, 
and  as  fair  nearly,  though  not  so  good  looking,  as  the  Persian. 
These  were  all  distinguished,  and  received  each  some  mark  of 
favour.  Those  who  followed  had  only  a little  attar  poured  on 
their  handkerchiefs,  and  some  pawn.  On  the  whole  it  was  an 
interesting  and  striking  sight,  though  less  magnificent  than  1 had 
expected,  and  less  so  1 think  than  the  levee  of  an  European  mo- 
narch. The  sameness  of  the  greater  part  of  the  dresses  (white 
muslin)  was  not  sufficiently  relieved  by  the  splendour  of  the  few 
khelats ; and  even  these  which  were  of  gold  and  silver  brocade 
were  in  a great  measure  eclipsed  by  the  scarlet  and  blue  uniforms, 
gold  lace,  and  feathers,  of  the  English.  One  of  the  most  striking 
figures  was  the  Governor-General’s  native  aide-du-camp,  a tall, 
strong-built,  and  remarkably  handsome  man,  in  the  flower  of  his 
age,  and  of  a countenance  at  once  kind  and  bold.  His  dress  was 
a very  rich  hussar  uniform,  and  he  advanced  last  of  the  circle, 
with  the  usual  military  salute;  then,  instead  of  the  offering  of 
money  which  each  of  the  rest  made,  he  bared  a small  part  of  the 
blade  of  his  sabre,  and  held  it  out  to  the  Governor.  The  attar 
he  received,  not  on  his  handkerchief,  but  on  his  white  cotton 
gloves.  I had  on  former  occasions  noticed  this  soldier  from  his 
height,  striking  appearance,  and  rich  uniform.  He  is  a very  re- 
spectable man,  and  reckoned  a good  officer. 


86 


CHAPTER  IV. 

CALCUTTA ROPE  BRIDGES WEDDING  PROCESSION HINDOO  FESTIVAL 

—CHOLERA  MORBUS FRUITS ORDINATION  OF  CHRISTIAN  DAVID. 

Tn  passing  Cossipoor  on  my  return  to  Titty-ghur,  I called  on 
Mr.  C.  Shakespear,  and  looked  at  his  rope-bridges,  which  are 
likely  to  be  most  useful,  in  this  country  at  least,  if  not  in  Europe. 
Their  principle  differs  from  that  of  chain  bridges,  in  the  centre 
being  a little  elevated,  and  in  their  needing  no  abutments.  It  is 
in  fact  an  application  of  a ship’s  standing  rigging  to  a new  pur- 
pose, and  it  is  not  even  necessary  that  there  should  be  any  foun- 
dation at  all,  as  the  whole  may  be  made  to  rest  on  flat  timbers, 
and,  with  the  complete  apparatus  of  cordage,  iron,  and  bamboos, 
may  be  taken  to  pieces  and  set  up  again  in  a few  hours,  and  re- 
moved from  place  to  place  by  the  aid  of  a few  camels  and  ele- 
phants. One  of  these  over  a torrent  near  Benares,  of  160  feet 
span,  stood  a severe  test  during  last  year’s  inundation,  when,  if 
ever,  the  cordage  might  have  been  expected  to  suffer  from  the 
rain,  and  when  a vast  crowd  of  neighbouring  villagers  took  refuge 
on  it  as  the  only  safe  place  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  indeed  al- 
most the  only  object  which  continued  to  hold  itself  above  the 
water.  He  has  now  finished  another  bridge  for  the  Caramnasa, 
at  the  expense  of  Ramchunder  Narain,  whom  I met  at  the  Dur- 
bar, and  who  may  expect  to  reap  much  popularity  with  his  coun- 
trymen from  such  a public  benefit,  not  only  as  facilitating  inter- 
course, but  as  freeing  their  religious  pilgrims  from  a great  anxiety. 
The  name  of  the  river  in  question  means,  “ the  destroyer  of  good 
works,”  from  the  circumstance  of  an  ancient  devotee,  whose 
penances,  like  those  of  Kehama,  had  exalted  him  to  Indra’s  hea- 
ven, having  been  precipitated  headlong  by  Siva,  till  his  sacrifices 
broke  his  fall  half  way,  directly  over  the  stream  in  question.  He 
now  hangs  in  the  air,  head  downwards,  and  his  saliva  flows  into, 
and  pollutes  the  whole  water  in  such  a manner,  that  any  person 
who  bathes  in,  or  even  touches  it,  loses  the  merit  of  all  his  ante- 
cedent penances,  alms,  and  other  acts  of  piety,  reserving,  how- 
ever, the  full  benefit  of  his  misdeeds  of  whatever  description.  All 
brahmins  who  are  obliged  to  pass  it,  (and  it  lies  in  the  way  to  some 
of  the  most  illustrious  places  of  pilgrimage,)  are  in  the  greatest 
terror.  They  are  sometimes  carried  on  men’s  shoulders,  some- 
times ferried  over;  but  in  either  case,  if  they  are  in  the  least 


CORPULENCY. 


87 


splashed  or  wetted,  it  amounts  almost  to  a matter  of  damnation, 
without  hope  or  chance  of  pardon.  The  people  on  the  bank  who 
act  as  watermen,  are  not  influenced  by  these  superstitions  *,  but  to 
Indians  in  general  Mr.  Shakespear’s  bridge  will  be  most  valuable. 
The  span  of  this  bridge,  which  is  strong  enough  to  bear  a field- 
piece,  is  320  feet  in  length,  its  breadth  8 ; its  flooring  is  composed 
of  stout  bamboos,  connected  by  coir-rope,  with  a net-work  hand- 
rail on  either  side,  also  of  coir,  as  are  the  shrouds  and  principal 
tackling  which  support  the  whole.  The  appearance  of  the  bridge 
is  light  and  graceful,  and  its  motion  on  passing  over  it  not  suffi- 
cient to  be  either  dangerous  or  alarming. 

My  wife  tells  me  a curious  circumstance  which  has  occurred 
in  my  absence,  illustrative  of  the  timid  character  which  seems  to 
belong  to  the  Bengalees.  The  coachman  had  asked  leave  to  go 
with  me  to  Calcutta ; and  as  the  carriage-horses  were  consequently 
idle,  she  ordered  the  saeeses  to  lead  them  out  for  exercise.  Some 
demur  took  place,  and  on  asking  the  reason,  she  was  actually  told 
that  they  were  afraid!  She  insisted,  however,  and  the  horses, 
when  they  appeared,  were  quiet  as  lambs.  The  men  at  first,  out 
of  pure  precaution,  had  buckled  up  their  heads  so  tight,  that  they 
could  scarcely  breathe,  and  when  ordered  to  unloose  them,  held 
them  as  if  they  had  tigers  in  a leash:  yet  the  horses,  as  I have 
observed,  were  quiet,  and  these  are  men  who  have  been  all  their 
lives  in  the  stable!  I have,  indeed,  understood  from  many  quar- 
ters, that  the  Bengalees  are  regarded  as  the  greatest  cowards  in 
India;  and  that  partly  owing  to  this  reputation,  and  partly  to  their 
inferior  size,  the  Sepoy  regiments  are  always  recruited  from  Bahar 
and  the  upper  provinces.  Yet  that  little  army  with  which  Lord 
Clive  did  such  wonders,  was  chiefly  raised  from  Bengal.  So  much 
are  all  men  the  creatures  of  circumstance  and  training. 

I had  frequently  heard  of  the  admiration  which  the  Indians 
feel  for  corpulency,  but  no  instance  had  occurred  within  my  know- 
ledge. 1 am  assured,  however,  that  a young  man,  whose  height 
and  bulk  I had  noticed  to-day  at  the  Durbar,  takes  a large  draught 
of  ghee  every  morning,  in  order  to  contribute  to  the  bulk  of  which 
he  is  vain,  and  that  very  frequently  the  natives  contract  liver 
complaints  by  their  anxiety  to  fatten  themselves. 

March  1. — We  bade  adieu  to  Titty-ghur  with  regret,  but  just 
as  we  were  on  the  point  of  setting  out,  a severe  storm  of  thunder, 
rain,  and  wind  came  on,  which  detained  us  about  an  hour,  being 
the  first  regular  north-wester  which  we  had  seen.  It  fairly  lashed 
the  river  into  high  waves,  and  produced  a delightful  effect  on  the 
air,  laying  the  dust  and  refreshing  vegetation,  as  if  by  magic.  My 
wife  and  children  went  by  water,  and  I took  in  the  carriage  with 
me  our  Sircar.  He  is  a shrewd  fellow,  well  acquainted  with  the 
country,  and  possessed  of  the  sort  of  information  which  is  likely 


88  LANDHOLDERS  AND  TENANTS.— IDOLS. 

to  interest  travellers.  His  account  of  the  tenure  of  lands  very 
closely  corresponded  with  what  I had  previously  heard  from  others. 

The  “ Zemindars”  or  landholders,  let  their  lands,  sometimes 
in  large  divisions,  to  tenants  corresponding  to  the  Scotch  tacksmen, 
who  underlet  them  again,  and  occasionally,  which  generally  oc- 
curs near  Calcutta,  to  the  cottagers  and  cultivators  immediately, 
and  in  very  minute  portions.  The  lands  are  sometimes  on  lease 
for  a good  many  years,  sometimes  from  year  to  year  only.  The 
usual  rent  for  rice-land  in  Bengal,  at  least  in  this  part  of  it,  is  two 
rupees  a begah,  or  about  twelve  or  fifteen  shillings  an  acre ; for 
orchards  five  rupees,  or  about  £l.  12^.  for  the  acre.  All  rents 
are  paid  in  money,  and  the  principle  of  “ metairie,”  which  1 ex- 
plained to  him,  is  unknown.  The  tenant  in  most  of  the  villages 
is  at  the  expense  of  the  buildings,  but  these  are  so  cheap  and  frail, 
as  probably  to  cost  less  than  thatching  a stack  in  England,  and 
can  hardly  be  said  to  last  longer.  Land  in  this  neighbourhood 
sells  at  about  fifty  rupees  the  begah,  but  did  not  fetch  near  so 
much  before  the  roads  were  opened,  which  has  been  a measure 
of  exceeding  utility  to  the  landholders  here.  The  Baboo  pointed 
out  two  or  three  large  houses  which  we  passed,  as  the  residences 
of  wealthy  Zemindars,  but  who  had  also  still  more  splendid  houses 
in  Calcutta.  One  of  these,  who  was  dignified  by  Lord  Wellesley 
with  the  title  of  rajah,  has  a really  fine  villa,  surrounded  wdth  a 
sort  of  park,  the  borders  of  which  are  planted  with  a handsome 
myrtle-leaved  tree,  about  as  large  as  an  English  horse-chesnut, 
which  is  here  very  common,  but  which  he  has  defaced  by  clipping 
each  individual  tree  into  a regular  conical  shape.  This  the  Baboo 
pointed  out  as  a piece  of  extreme  neatness  and  elegance.  Another 
gateway  on  the  left  hand,  in  a very  picturesque  wood  of  coco- 
trees and  bamboos,  was  guarded  by  an  immense  wooden  idol  of 
a young  man,  having  only  sandals  and  a sash  painted  black,  the 
rest  being  flesh-colour.  It  must  have  been,  I should  think,  thirty 
feet  high.  The  Sircar  said  smiling,  “ that  great  idol  stands  sentry 
to  all  the  gods  and  goddesses  within.”  It  was  in  fact  the  entrance 
to  the  pagoda  at  Kaida,  which  I had  previously  seen  from  the 
river.  A little  further  by  the  road-side  was  a huge  tower-like 
structure,  about  sixteen  feet  high,  supported  on  eight  or  ten  mas- 
sive but  low  wheels,  of  wood  painted  red,  and  adorned  with  a good 
deal  of  clumsy  carving.  “ That,”  he  said,  again  smiling,  “ is  our 
god’s  carriage ; we  keep  it  on  the  main  road,  because  it  is  too 
heavy  for  the  lanes  of  the  neighbouring  village.  It  is  a fine  sight 
to  see  the  people  from  all  the  neighbourhood  come  together  to 
draw  it,  when  the  statue  is  put  in  on  solemn  days.”  I asked  what 
god  it  belonged  to,  and  was  answered  “ Brahma.”  He  added,  it 
required  between  two  and  three  hundred  people  to  move  it,  which 
I do  not  believe,  though  I can  easily  suppose  that  number  may 


NAWAB  OF  CHITPOOR. 


89 


usually  assist.  1 asked  if  self-immolation  ever  took  place  here 
as  at  Juggernaut,  but  he  assured  me  “ never  that  he  had  heard  of.” 
As  we  passed  through  Chitpoor,  he  showed  me  the  house  of  the 
“ Nawab  of  Chitpoor.”  Of  this  potentate  I had  not  heard  before. 
He  is  now  called  by  Europeans  the  Nawab  of  Moorshedabad, 
where  he  resides,  and  is,  it  seems,  the  descendant  of  the  Moham- 
medan nobleman  who  was  the  lord  of  the  district  before  our  con- 
quest, and  still  retains  a considerable  appanage  of  lands  and 
pensions,  to  the  amount  of  about  100,000  S.  rupees  monthly,  with 
an  honorary  guard  of  sepoys,  and  many  of  the  exteriors  of 
royalty. 

While  he  resided  in  his  house  at  Chitpoor  he  was  always  re- 
ceived by  the  Governor  on  state  days  at  the  head  of  the  stairs, 
and  conducted,  after  an  embrace,  to  a sort  of  throne  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  room  ; and  when  he  took  his  leave,  he  was  distinguish- 
ed by  a salute  from  the  fort,  and  turning  out  of  the  guard.  The 
Baboo  told  me  all  this,  and  did  not  fail  to  point  out  the  different 
measure  which  the  Mussulmans  in  India  had  received  from  that 
they  had  given  to  his  countrymen.  “ When  they  conquered  us, 
they  cut  off  the  heads  of  all  our  Rajahs  whom  they  could  catch. 
When  the  English  conquered  them,  they  gave  them  lands  and 
pensions  !”  I do  not  exactly  know  whether  he  said  this  by  way 
of  compliment  or  no.  I have  reason  to  believe  that  the  sentiment 
is  very  common  among  the  Hindoos ; and  I doubt  even,  whether 
they  would  or  would  not  have  been  better  pleased,  had  we,  in 
such  cases,  been  less  lenient  and  liberal.  Nevertheless  it  is  evi- 
dent that  in  thus  keeping  up,  even  at  a considerable  expense,  these 
monuments  of  the  Mohammedan  power,  our  nation  has  acted 
wisely  as  well  as  generously.  It  is  desirable  that  the  Hindoos 
should  always  be  reminded  that  we  did  not  conquer  them,  but 
found  them  conquered,  that  their  previous  rulers  were  as  much 
strangers  to  their  blood  and  to  their  religion  as  we  are,  and  that 
they  were  notoriously  far  more  oppressive  masters  than  we  have 
ever  shown  ourselves. 

In  passing  through  the  village  of  Chitpoor,  I was  surprised  to 
see  a Jackal!  run  across  the  street,  though  it  was  still  broad  day, 
and  there  was  the  usual  crowd  of  market  people  and  passengers. 
A man  followed  him  laughing,  and  shaking  his  apron  to  frighten 
him,  which  the  animal  however  to  all  appearance  scarcel}^  heed- 
ed. Some  carrion  had  probably  attracted  him,  but  it  is  seldom 
that  they  venture  to  show  themselves  so  early  and  in  such  public 
places.  A little  further  we  passed  a sort  of  sepoy,  dressed  very 
splendidly  in  the  native  style,  with  a beautiful  Persian  gun  and 
crooked  hanjar,  but  no  bayonet.  My  companion  pointed  him 
out  with  much  glee,  as  one  of  the  attendants  of  Baboo  Budinath 

VoL.  I.— 12 


90 


MARRIAGE  PROCESSION. 


Roy,^  who  lives  in  this  neighbourhood,  and  has  a menagerie  of 
animals  and  birds  only  inferior  to  that  at  Barrackpoor,  This 
privilege  of  being  attended  by  armed  men  is  one  greatly  coveted 
by  the  wealthy  natives  of  India,  but  only  conceded  to  the  highest 
ranks.  Among  the  Europeans  no  person  now  claims  it  in  Cal- 
cutta, save  the  chief-justice  and  the  commander-in-chief,  each  of 
whom  is  attended  in  public,  besides  his  silver  sticks,  by  four  or 
five  spears^  very  elegantly  worked,  the  poles  of  silver,  and  the 
blades  generally  gilt,  with  a place  for  the  hand  covered  with 
crimson  velvet,  and  a fringe  of  the  same  colour  where  the  staff 
and  blade  join.  The  natives,  however,  like  to  have  swords  and 
bucklers,  or  muskets  carried  before  them,  and  some  have  lately 
ventured  to  mount  sentries  at  their  gates,  equipped  very  nearly 
like  the  regular  troops  in  the  pay  of  Government.  One  of  these 
the  Baboo  soon  afterwards  pointed  out  to  me,  at  the  great  house 
of  the  Mullich  family,  near  the  entrance  of  Calcutta.  I had  af- 
terwards however  reason  to  know  that  this  was  without  permis- 
sion, and  that  Rooplaul  Mullich  got  severely  censured  for  it  by 
the  Persian  secretary,  whose  functions  extend  to  the  regulation 
of  precedence  among  the  natives  throughout  India,  and  indeed  to 
many  of  the  duties  of  our  Herald’s  College. 

March  5,  Friday. — This  evening  1 preached  the  first  of  a course 
of  Lent  Lectures  on  the  Sermon  on  the  Mount.  Unfortunately  I 
have  all  these  to  write  de  novo,  my  books  and  papers  being  as  yet 
inaccessible,  and  I have  very  little  time  for  either  reading  or 
composition.  I must  however  do  my  best.  The  church  was 
extremely  well  attended,  far  indeed  beyond  my  expectations.  In 
our  way  there  we  passed  a marriage  procession.  The  sort  of 
palanquin  in  which  the  bridegroom  was  carried  was  according  to 
the  old  Indian  fashion,  much  handsomer  than  that  now  in  use, 
but  probably  not  so  convenient.  The  vehicle  of  the  bride  was 
a common  mehaniiah  palanquin,  closed  up,  and  looking  like  a 
coffin.  The  number  of  torches  carried  before  and  on  every  side 
of  the  bridegroom  was  a practical  illustration  of  the  glorious 
simile  of  the  rising  sun  in  the  Psalms.  By  the  way  ought  not  the 
word  inDn,  (Canticles  iii.  7.)  which  our  translators  render-^  bed,” 
to  be  “ litter,”  or  ‘‘  palanquin  ?”  It  appears  from  what  goes 
before  that  Solomon  had  made  di  journey  in  it — “coming  up  from 
the  wilderness  like  pillars  of  smoke,”  with  all  the  dust  of  his 
bearers  round  him,  and  escorted  by  70  warriors  during  his  nightly 
journey.  Nor  are  four-post  beadsteads  used  (see  ver.  9.)  in  any 

* He  was  subsequently  made  Rajah  Bahadur  by  Lord  Amherst,  and  to  his 
munificent  donation  of  20,000  S.  rupees,  is  the  erection  of  the  Central  School 
for  the  education  of  native  females  in  Calcutta,  mainly  to  be  attributed.  Other 
charitable  institutions  are  likewise  largely  indebted  to  his  liberality. — Ed. 


RHADACANT  DEB. 


91 


part  of  the  East.  “ Pereant  qui  nostra  ante  nos  !”  I find  the 
same  thought  in  Harmer,  though  in  the  midst  of  so  much  non- 
sense, that  I am  almost  ashamed  of  my  own  conjecture.  1 believe 
it,  however,  to  be  right,  though  it  has  got  into  bad  company. 

March  8. — I had  an  interesting  visit  this  morning  from  Rha- 
dacant  Deb,  the  son  of  a man  of  large  fortune,  and  some  rank 
and  consequence  in  Calcutta,  whose  carriage,  silver  sticks,  and 
attendants,  were  altogether  the  smartest  1 had  yet  seen  in  India. 
He  is  a young  man  of  pleasing  countenance  and  manners,  speaks 
English  well,  and  has  read  many  of  our  popular  authors,  particu- 
larly historical  and  geographical.  He  lives  a good  deal  with 
Europeans,  and  has  been  very  laudably  active  and  liberal  in  for- 
warding, both  by  money  and  exertions,  the  education  of  his  coun- 
trymen. He  is  secretary,  gratuitously,  to  the  Calcutta  School 
Society,  and  has  himself  published  some  elementary  works  in 
Bengalee.  With  all  this  he  is  believed  to  be  a great  bigot  in  the 
religion  of  his  country’s  gods — one  of  the  few  sincere  ones,  it  is 
said,  among  the  present  race  of  wealthy  Baboos.  When  the  meet- 
ing was  held  by  the  Hindoo  gentlemen  of  Calcutta,  to  vote  an 
address  of  thanks  to  Lord  Hastings  on  his  leaving  Bengal,  Rhada- 
cant  Deb  proposed  as  an  amendment  that  Lord  Hastings  should 
be  particularly  thanked  for  “ the  protection  and  encouragement 
which  he  had  afforded  to  the  ancient  and  orthodox  practice  of 
widows  burning  themselves  with  their  husband’s  bodies” — a 
proposal  which  was  seconded  by  Hurree  Mohun  Thakoor,  another 
wealthy  Baboo.  It  was  lost,  however,  the  cry  of  the  meeting, 
though  all  Hindoos,  being  decidedly  against  it.  But  it  shows  the 
warmth  of  Rhadacant  Deb’s  prejudices.  With  all  this  I found 
him  a pleasing  man,  not  unwilling  to  converse  on  religious  topics, 
and  perhaps  even  liking  to  do  so  from  a consciousness  that  he 
was  a shrewd  reasoner,  and  from  anxiety,  which  he  expressed 
strongly,  to  vindicate  his  creed  in  the  estimation  of  foreigners. 
He  complained  that  his  countrymen  had  been  much  misrepre- 
sented, that  many  of  their  observances  were  misunderstood  both 
by  Europeans  and  the  vulgar  in  India,  and  that  for  instance,  the 
prohibition  of  particular  kinds  of  food,  and  the  rule  of  caste,  had 
a spiritual  meaning,  and  were  intended  to  act  as  constant  memen- 
tos of  the  duties  of  temperance,  humanity,  abstraction  from  the 
world,  &c.  He  admitted  the  beauty  of  the  Christian  morality 
readily  enough,  but  urged  that  it  did  not  suit  the  people  of  Hin- 
dostan  ; and  that  our  drinking  wine,  and  eating  the  flesh  of  so 
useful  and  excellent  a creature  as  the  cow,  would,  in  India,  be 
not  only  shocking,  but  very  unwholesome.  I said  that  nobody 
among  us  was  required  to  eat  beef  if  he  did  not  like  it.  He  how- 
ever shook  his  head,  and  said  that  the  vulgar  of  India  would 
eat  beef  readily  enough  if  they  were  allowed  to  do  so.  He  asked 


92 


HINDOOSTANEE  PENTATEUCH. 


me  several  questions  respecting  the  doctrines  of  the  Church  of 
England,  on  which  I hope  I gave  him  satisfactory  information, 
(preferring  to  remove  his  prejudices  against  us,  rather  than  to 
make  any  direct  attack  on  his  own  principles).  His  greatest 
curiosity,  however,  was  about  the  Free-masons,  who  had  lately 
been  going  in  solemn  procession  to  lay  the  first  stone  of  the  new 
Hindoo  College.  “ Were  they  Christians  “ Were  they  of  my 
Church?”  He  could  not  understand  that  this  bond  of  union 
was  purely  civil,  convivial,  or  benevolent,  seeing  they  made  so 
much  use  of  prayer ; and  was  greatly  surprised  when  I said,  that 
in  Europe  both  Christians  and  Mussulmans  belonged  to  the 
society  ; and  that  of  the  gentlemen  whom  he  had  seen  the  other 
day,  some  went  to  the  Cathedral,  and  some  to  Dr.  Bryce’s  church. 
He  did  not,  indeed,  understand  that  between  Dr.  Bryce  and  the 
other  chaplains  any  difference  existed ; and  I had  no  desire,  on 
finding  this,  to  carry  my  explanations  on  this  point  further.  He 
asked,  at  length,  “ if  I was  a mason  ?”  “ If  I knew  their  secret  ?” 

“ If  I could  guess  it  ?”  “ If  I thought  it  was  any  thing  wicked  or 

Jacobinical  ?”  I answered,  that  1 was  no  mason  ; and  took  care 
to  express  my  conviction  that  the  secret,  if  there  was  any,  was  per- 
fectly harmless  ; and  we  parted  very  good  friends,  with  mutual 
expressions  of  anxiety  to  meet  again.  Greatly  indeed  should  I 
rejoice,  if  any  thing  which  I can  say  would  be  of  service  to  him. 

1 have  for  these  few  years  past  been  reading  the  Hindoostanee 
Pentateuch,  with  my  “ Moonshee,”  or  teacher,  who  has  never 
seen  it  before,  and  is  highly  delighted  with  its  beauty  and  eloquence, 
particularly  with  the  account  of  Paradise,  the  flood,  and  the  fall 
of  man.  “ It  must  have  been  a delightful  place,”  said  he,  when 
reading  of  Eden  and  its  four  rivers.  He  asked  me  many  and 
some  very  interesting  questions,  and  I began  almost  to  hope  that 
what  I had  the  opportunity  of  saying  to  him,  would,  joined  to  the 
excellence  of  the  Scriptures  themselves,  have  gradually  some 
effect,  when  one  day  he  manifested  a jealousy  of  the  superiority  of 
our  Scriptures  over  those  of  his  countrymen,  and  brought  me  a 
book,  which  he  assured  me  greatly  resembled  the  work  of  Moses, 
begging  me  to  read  it,  which  1 readily  promised.  It  was  a trans- 
lation into  English  of  the  “ Supta  a portion  of  the  “ Mar- 

cumdeya  Purana,”  and  recounts  the  exploits  of  a certain  goddess, 
named  “ Maha-Maya,”  (Great  Delusion,)  produced  by  the  com- 
bined energies  of  all  the  deities  united,  in  order  to  defeat  the 
demons  and  giants.  Some  parts  of  it  are  not  unlike  the  most 
inflated  descriptions  in  the  Edda ; and  though  a strange  rhapsody, 
it  is  not  devoid  of  spirit.  But  it  has  not  the  most  distant  approach 
to  any  moral  lesson,  or  to  any  practical  wisdom.  The  translator 
is  a Brahmin  from  Madras,  now  in  Calcutta  soliciting  subscrip- 
tions for  the  sufferers  by  famine  on  the  Coromandel  coast.  He 


MOSQUES. 


93 


called  on  me  the  other  day  for  this  purpose  ; for  which  also  he 
had  contrived  to  assemble  a numerous  meeting  of  wealthy  natives, 
an  event  so  unusual  as  to  excite  much  surprise  among  those  Eu- 
ropeans whom  I have  heard  mention  it.  None  of  the  sums  sub- 
scribed were  very  large,  but  it  is  a new  thing  to  see  a charitable 
feeling  of  this  kind  awakened  among  them.  I felt  myself  bound 
to  subscribe,  if  it  were  only  to  show  them  that  in  such  under- 
takings Christians  would  gladly  co-operate  with  them,  and  even 
entrust  their  money  to  their  distribution.  On  talking,  however, 
with  one  of  the  most  liberal  of  the  subscribers,  (Vomanundun 
Thakoor,)  I found  they  had  not  the  same  confidence  in  each  other 
which  I placed  in  them.  “ Ramaswani  Pundit,”  he  said,  “ may 
be  a very  good  man,  but  I took  care  at  the  meeting  that  all  the 
money  subscribed  should  be  lodged  with  the  house  of  Palmer 
and  Co.,  and  distributed  at  Madras  by  the  English  committee 
there.  I do  not  know  the  Madras  Pundits — but  I know  that 
Europe  gentlemen  have  character  to  lose.” 

The  external  meanness  of  all  the  shops,  depositories,  and  ware- 
houses in  this  great  city  is  surprising.  The  bazars  are  wretched- 
ness itself,  without  any  approach  to  those  covered  walks,  which  are 
the  chief  glory  of  the  cities  of  Turkey,  Russia,  and  Persia,  and 
which,  in  a climate  like  this,  where  both  the  sun  and  the  rains 
are  intolerable,  would  be  more  than  any  where  else  desirable. 
Yet  I have  read  magnificent  accounts  of  the  shops  and  bazars  of 
Calcutta.  But  they  were  in  the  same  authors  who  talk  of  the 
picturesque  appearance  of  its  “ Jlfmare ^5,”  whereas  there  is  abso- 
lutely no  single  minaret  in  Calcutta  ; nor,  so  far  as  I have  seen  or 
heard,  in  any  of  its  neighbouring  towns.  Hamilton’s  book,  where 
this  is  mentioned,  is  generally  regarded  as  very  correct.  How 
could  such  a mistake  occur  in  a matter,  of  all  others,  the  most 
obvious  to  the  eye  ? There  are  many  small  mosques,  indeed,  but 
the  Muezzins  all  stand  at  the  door,  or  on  some  small  eminence 
adjoining.  Minarets  there  are  none.  Perhaps  he  confounded 
the  church  and  steeple,  and  supposed  that  mosque  and  minaret 
were  synonymous.  But  none  of  the  mosques  are  seen  in  any 
general  view  of  Calcutta,  being  too  small,  too  low,  and  built  in 
too  obscure  corners  to  be  visible,  till  one  is  close  upon  them. 
They  rather,  indeed,  resemble  the  tombs  of  saints,  than  places  for 
public  worship,  such  as  are  seen  in  Turkey,  Persia,  and  the  south 
of  Russia.  Though  diminutive,  however,  many  of  them  are 
pretty,  and  the  sort  of  eastern  gothic  style  in  which  they  are  built, 
is  to  my  eye,  though  trained  up  to  reverence  the  pure  English 
style,  extremely  pleasing.  They  consist  generally  of  a parallel- 
ogram of  about  thirty-six  feet  by  twelve,  or  hardly  so  much,  sur- 
mounted by  three  little  domes,  the  apex  of  each  terminated  by  a 


94 


FESTIVAL  OF  CHURRUCK  POOJAIL 


flower,  with  small  but  richly  ornamented  pinnacles  in  the  angles. 
The  faces  of  the  building  are  covered  with  a good  deal  of  Ara- 
besque tracery,  and  pierced  with  a small  door,  of  gothic  form,  in 
the  centre  of  one  of  the  longest  faces,  and  a small  window,  of 
almost  similar  form,  on  each  side.  Opposite  to  the  door,  which 
opens  eastward,  and  on  the  western  side,  is  a small  recess,  which 
serves  to  enshrine  the  Koran,  and  to  direct  the  eyes  of  the  faithful 
to  the  “ Kibla”  of  Mecca.  The  taste  of  these  little  oratories  is 
better  than  their  materials,  which  are  unfortunately,  in  this  part 
of  India,  nothing  but  brick  covered  with  plaster  : while  they  last, 
however,  they  are  really  great  ornaments  to  the  lanes  and  villages 
where  they  occur,  and  might  furnish  some  advantageous  hints,  1 
think,  to  the  Christian  architects  of  India. 

March  25. — Our  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Stowe,  arrived,  well, 
and  in  good  spirits,  after  a very  tedious  voyage. 

April  9. — The  Hindoo  festival  of  “ Churruck  Poojah”  com- 
menced to-day,  of  which,  as  my  wife  has  given  an  account  in  her 
journal,"^  I shall  only  add  a few  particulars. 

* One  of  the  Hindoo  festivals  in  honour  of  the  goddess  Kali  commenced  this 
evening.  Near  the  river  a crowd  was  assembled  round  a stage  of  bamboos,  15  feet 
high,  composed  of  two  upright,  and  three  horizontal  poles,  which  last  were  placed 
at  about  five  feet  asunder.  On  this  kind  of  ladder  several  men  mounted,  with 
large  bags,  out  of  which  they  threw  down  various  articles  to  the  by-standers,  who 
caught  them  with  great  eagerness  ; but  I was  too  far  off"  to  ascertain  what  they 
were.  They  then  one  by  one  raised  their  joined  hands  over  their  heads,  and 
threw  themselves  down  with  a force  which  must  have  proved  fatal  had  not  their 
fall  been  broken  by  some  means  or  other.  The  crowd  was  too  dense  to  allow  of 
my  discovering  how  this  was  elfected ; but  it  is  certain  they  were  unhurt,  as 
they  immediately  re-ascended,  and  performed  the  same  ceremonies  many  times. 

On  the  10th  we  were  awakened  before  day-break,  by  the  discordant  sounds 
of  native  musical  instruments,  and  immediately  mounted  our  horses,  and  rode 
to  the  Meidan.  As  the  morning  advanced  we  could  see  an  immense  crowd 
coming  down  the  Chowringhee  road,  which  was  augmented  by  persons  joining 
it  from  all  the  streets  and  lanes  of  the  city.  We  entered  the  crowd,  taking  the 
precaution  of  making  the  saees  walk  close  by  my  horse’s  head,  who  was  fright- 
ened at  the  music,  dancing,  and  glare  of  torches,  accompanied  at  intervals  by 
the  deep  sound  of  the  gong. 

“ The  double  double  peal  of  the  drum  was  there. 

And  the  startling  sound  of  the  trumpet’s  blare. 

And  the  gong  that  seemed  with  its  thunders  dread 
To  stun  the  living  and  waken  the  dead.” 

In  the  midst  of  this  crowd  walked  and  danced  the  miserable  fanatics,  torturing 
themselves  in  the  most  horrible  manner,  and  each  surrounded  by  his  own  par- 
ticular band  of  admirers,  with  music  and  torches.  * * * ^ ^ Their  countenan- 
ces denoted  suffering,  but  they  evidently  gloried  in  their  patient  endurance,  and 
probably  were  supported  by  the  assurance  that  they  were  expiating  the  sins  of 
the  past  year  by  suffering  voluntarily,  and  without  a groan,  this  agony. 

We  had  considerable  difficulty  in  making  our  way  through  the  crowd;  but 
when  we  had  arrived  at  a short  distance  from  the  scene  of  action,  the  coup  d’oeil 
was  beautifully  picturesque,  and  forcibly  reminded  me  of  an  English  race-course: 


FESTIVAL  OF  CHURRUCK  POOJAH, 


95 


The  crowd  on  the  Meidan  was  great,  and  very  picturesque. 
The  music  consisted  chiefly  of  large  double  drums,  ornamented 
with  plumes  of  black  feathers,  like  those  of  a hearse,  which  rose 
considerably  higher  than  the  heads  of  the  persons  who  played  on 
them ; large  crooked  trumpets,  like  the  “ litui”  of  the  ancients, 
and  small  gongs  suspended  from  a bamboo,  which  rested  on  the 
shoulders  of  two  men,  the  last  of  whom  played  on  it,  with  a large, 
thick,  and  heavy  drum-stick,  or  cudgel.  All  the  persons  who 
walked  in  the  procession,  and  a large  majority  of  the  spectators, 
had  their  faces,  bodies,  and  white  cotton  clothes  daubed  all  over 
with  vermilion,  the  latter  to  a degree  which  gave  them  the  appear- 
ance of  being  actually  dyed  rose-colour.  They  were  also  crowned 
with  splendid  garlands  of  flowers,  wath  girdles  and  balrics  of  the 
same.  Many  trophies  and  pageants  of  different  kinds  were  paraded 
up  and  down,  on  stages  drawn  by  horses,  or  bullocks.  Some  were 
mythological,  others  were  imitations  of  different  European  figures, 
soldiers,  ships,  &c.,  and,  in  particular,  there  was  one  very  large 
model  of  a steam-boat.  The  devotees  went  about  with  small 
spears  through  their  tongues  and  arms,  and  still  more  with  hot 
irons  pressed  against  their  sides.  All  were  naked  to  the  waist, 
covered  with  flowers,  and  plentifully  raddled  with  vermilion, 


flags  were  flying  in  every  direction — booths  were  erected  with  stages  for  dancing; 
the  flowing  white  garments  of  the  natives  gave  the  impression  of  a numerous 
assemblage  of  well-dressed  women;  and  though  on  a nearer  approach  their 
dingy  complexions  destroyed  the  illusion,  yet  the  scene  lost  nothing  of  its  beauty. 
I never  saw  in  England  such  a multitude  collected  together ; but  this  is  one  of 
their  most  famous  festivals,  and  the  people  had  assembled  from  all  the  neigh- 
bouring villages.  The  noise  of  the  music  continued  till  about  noon,  when  the 
devotees  retired  to  heal  their  wounds.  These  are  said  to  be  dangerous,  and  oc- 
casionally to  prove  fatal.  One  of  our  servants,  a “ Musalchee,”  or  torch-bearer,  of 
the  lowest  caste,  (for  it  seems  that  none  of  a higher  sort  practise  these  cruelties,) 
ran  about  the  house  with  a small  spear  through  his  tongue,  begging  money  from 
his  fellow-servants;  this  man  appeared  stupified  with  opium,  which  lam  told  is 
generally  taken  by  these  poor  wretches,  to  deaden  their  feelings  : and  the  parts 
through  w’hich  the  spears  are  thrust  are  said  to  be  previously  rubbed  for  a con- 
siderable time,  till  numbness  ensues. 

In  the  evening  the  Bishop  walked  to  the  Boitaconnah,  the  part  of  the  city 
where  the  trees  for  swinging  are  erected;  they  are  not  suffered  to  be  placed  near 
the  European  residences.  He  arrived  in  time  to  be  a spectator  of  the  whole 
ceremony.  The  victim  was  led,  covered  with  flowers,  and  without  any  apparent 
reluctance,  to  the  foot  of  the  tree ; hooks  were  then  thrust  through  the  muscles 
of  his  sides,  which  he  endured  without  shrinking,  and  a broad  bandage  was  fast- 
ened round  his  waist,  to  prevent  the  hooks  from  being  torn  through  by  the  weight 
of  his  body.  He  was  then  raised  up,  and  whirled  round ; at  first  the  motion 
was  slow,  but  by  degrees  was  increased  to  considerable  rapidity.  In  a few 
minutes  it  ceased  ; and  the  by-standers  were  going  to  let  him  down,  when  he 
made  signs  that  they  should  proceed ; this  resolution  was  received  with  great 
applause  by  the  crowd,  and  after  drinking  some  water  he  was  again  spun  round. 
— Extract  from  the  Editor's  Journal. 


96 


SWINGING. 


while  their  long,  black,  wet  hair  hung  down  their  backs,  almost 
to  their  loins.  From  time  to  time,  as  they  passed  us,  they  la- 
boured to  seem  to  dance,  but  in  general  their  step  was  slow,  their 
countenances  expressive  of  resigned  and  patient  suffering,  and 
there  was  no  appearance,  that  I saw,  of  any  tiling  like  frenzy  or 
intoxication.  The  peaceableness  of  the  multitude  was  also  as 
remarkable  as  its  number ; no  troops  were  visible,  except  the 
two  sentries,  who  at  all  times  keep  guard  on  two  large  tanks  in 
the  Meidan;  no  police,  except  the  usual  “Chokeydar,”  or 
watchman,^  at  his  post,  near  Allypoor  Bridge  ; yet  nothing  like 
quarrelling  or  rioting  occurred,  and  very  little  scolding.  A simi- 
lar crowd  in  England  would  have  shown  three  boxing-matches 
in  half  an  hour,  and  in  Italy  there  would  have  been  half  a 
dozen  assassinations  before  night.  In  the  evening  I walked  in 
another  direction,  towards  the  Boitaconnah,  and  the  streets  chief- 
ly occupied  by  natives.  Here  I saw  the  “ swinging,”  which  may 
be  best  understood  from  a sketch,  however  rude. 


April  15. — The  weather  is  now  very  hot,  unusually  so,  as  we 
are  told,  owing  to  the  want  of  that  refreshment  which  north- 
westers usually  bestow  at  this  time  of  year;  but  my  wife  and  I, 
by  rising  at  four  o’clock,  continue  to  enjoy  a delightful  ride 
every  morning,  though  by  a little  after  six  the  sun  is  so  hot  as  to 
drive  us  in  again.  We  have  tried  to  keep  our  rooms  cool  with 

* These  watchmen  are  less  numerous,  and  not  more  efficient  than  their  breth- 
ren in  the  streets  of  London.  They  do  not  cry  the  hour,  but  proclaim  their 
wakefulness  by  uttering  loud  howls  from  time  to  time.  They  are  armed  with 
pistol,  sword,  and  shicld.—Eu. 


CHOLERA  MORBUS. 


97 


“ tatties,”  which  are  mats  formed  of  the  kuskos,  a peculiar  sweet- 
scented  grass,  set  up  before  an  open  window,  in  the  quarter  of 
the  prevailing  wind,  and  kept  constantly  wet  by  a “bheestie,”  or 
water-carrier,  on  the  outside.  They  are  very  pleasant  when 
there  is  a strong  wind,  but  this  year  four  days  out  of  five  we  have 
no  wind  at  all.  They  have  also  this  inconvenience,  that  if  the 
bheestie  neglects  his  work  for  a few  minutes,  (and  unless  one  is 
always  watching  him  he  is  continually  dropping  asleep,)  a stream 
of  hot  air  enters,  which  makes  the  room  and  the  whole  house 
intolerable.  We  are,  therefore,  advised  to  shut  up  all  our  win- 
dows about  eight  o’clock  every  morning,  merely  agitating  the  air 
within  by  punkahs,  and  getting  rid  as  much  as  possible  of  all 
outward  breezes.  Thus  we  certainly  find  that  the  atmosphere 
within  doors  is  preserved  at  a much  lower  temperature  than  the 
outward  air,  ^.  e.  at  eighty  or  eighty-five  degrees  instead  of  a 
hundred.  Thus  confined,  it  is,  however,  close  and  grave-like  ; 
hut  if  we  go  to  an  open  window  or  door,  it  is  literally  like 
approaching  the  mouth  of  one  of  the  blast-furnaces  in  Colebrook 
Dale. 

April  21. — I entered  into  my  42d  year.  God  grant  that  my 
future  years  may  be  as  happy,  if  he  sees  good ! and  better,  far 
better  spent  than  those  which  are  gone  by  ! This  day  I christened 
my  dear  little  Harriet.  God  bless  and  prosper  her  with  all 
earthly  and  heavenly  blessings  ! We  had  afterwards  a great  din- 
ner and  evening  party,  at  w'hich  were  present  the  Governor  and 
Lady  Amherst,  and  nearly  all  our  acquaintance  in  Calcutta.  To 
the  latter  1 also  asked  several  of  the  wealthy  natives,  who  were 
much  pleased  with  the  attention,  being  in  fact  one  which  no 
European  of  high  station  in  Calcutta  had  previously  paid  to  any 
of  them.  Hurree  Mohun  Thakoor  observing  “ what  an  increased 
interest  the  presence  of  females  gave  to  our  parties,”  I reminded 
him  that  the  introduction  of  women  into  society  was  an  ancient 
Hindoo  custom,  and  only  discontinued  in  consequence  of  the 
'Mussulman  conquest.  He  assented  with  a laugh,  adding,  how- 
ever, “ it  is  too  late  for  us  to  go  back  to  the  old  custom  now.” 
Rhadacant  Deb,  who  overheard  us,  observed  more  seriously,  “ it 
is  very  true  that  we  did  not  use  to  shut  up  our  women  till  the 
times  of  the  Mussulmans.  But  before  we  could  give  them  the 
same  liberty  as  the  Europeans,  they  must  be  better  educated.” 
I introduced  these  Baboos  to  the  Chief-justice,  which  pleased 
them  much,  though  perhaps  they  were  still  better  pleased  with 
my  wife  herself  presenting  them  pawn,  rose-water,  and  attar  of 
roses  before  they  went,  after  the  native  custom. 

April  24. — The  Cholera  Morbus  is  making  great  ravages 
among  the  natives.  Few  Europeans  have  yet  died  of  it,  but  to 
all  it  is  sufficiently  near  to  remind  us  of  our  utter  dependence  on 

VoL.  1. — 1 3 


98 


NORTH-WESTERS. 


God’s  mercy,  and  how  near  we  are  in  the  midst  of  life  to  death ! 
Surely  there  is  no  country  in  the  world  where  this  recollection 
ought  to  be  more  perpetually  present  with  us  than  India.  All 
persons  experienced  in  this  climate  deny  that  any  of  the  country 
fevers  are  contagious.  A very  blessed  circumstance  surely, 
whatever  may  be  its  immediate  cause. 

June  10. — The  time  that  has  intervened  since  the  24th  of 
April  has  been  spent  in  a very  painful  manner.  1 have  had  to 
deplore  the  death  of  my  excellent  friend  Sir  Christopher  Fuller, 
and  for  a considerable  time  had  also  to  apprehend  that  it  would 
soon  be  followed  by  those  of  his  widow  and  son ; but  it  pleased 
God  to  bless  with  success  Dr.  Abel’s  medical  skill,  and  they 
embarked  for  England  in  the  same  vessel  which,  six  weeks  before, 
had  brought  them  out  with  a husband  and  a father, — all  happi- 
ness, and  agreeable  anticipation ! May  God  protect  and  comfort 
them ! 

During  the  greater  part  of  last  month  the  weather  was  intensely 
hot  and  very  sickly,  though  a temporary  relief  was  afforded  by  a 
few  north-westers,  accompanied  by  heavy  showers,  thunder,  and 
lightning.  These  storms  were  some  of  them  very  awful  at  the 
time,  but  as  they  increased  in  frequency  their  fury  abated,  and 
recently  the  weather  has  not  been  unlike  a close  damp  rainy 
autumn  in  England.  The  change  these  storms  produced,  both  on 
the  animal  and  vegetable  creation,  is  great.  The  grass  and  trees, 
which  always  indeed  retained  a verdure  far  beyond  what  I could 
have  expected,  have  assumed  a richer  luxuriance.  A fresh  crop 
of  flowers  has  appeared  on  many  of  the  trees  and  shrubs,  the 
mangoes  and  other  fruits  have  increased  to  treble  and  quadruple 
the  b^ulk  which  the  first  specimens  exhibited,  the  starved  cattle 
are  seen  every  where  greedily  devouring  the  young  grass,  which, 
young  as  it  is,  is  already  up  to  their  knees  ; the  gigantic  cranes, 
most  of  whom  disappeared  during  the  drought,  have  winged  their 
way  back  from  the  Sunderbunds  (their  summer  retreats) ; the 
white  and  red  paddy  birds  are  fluttering  all  over  the  Meidan ; 
and  the  gardens,  fields,  and  ditches  (and  the  ground  floors  of  some 
of  the  houses  too)  swarm  with  the  largest  and  noisiest  frogs  1 
ever  saw  or  heard.  One  of  these  frogs  I saw,  about  as  large,  I 
think,  as  a good  sized  gosling,  and  very  beautiful,  being  green 
speckled  with  black,  and  almost  transparent.  Some  of  the  lizards 
(also  green)  are  very  beautiful,  but  they  are  less  abundant  now 
than  they  were  during  the  hot  season.  I have  as  yet  seen  in  Cal- 
cutta neither  snake,  scorpion,  nor  centipede,  nor  any  insect  more 
formidable  than  a long  thin  starveling  sort  of  hornet,  or  rather 
wasp,  which  has  now  disappeared.  Of  the  fruits  which  this 
season  offers,  the  finest  are  leechees,  and  mangoes ; the  first  is 
really  very  fine,  being  a sort  of  plum,  with  the  flavour  of  a Fron- 


ORDINATION  OF  CHRISTIAN  DAVID. 


99 


tigiiac  grape.  The  second  is  a noble  fruit  in  point  of  size,  being 
as  large  as  a man’s  two  fists ; its  flavour  is  not  unlike  an  apricot, 
more  or  less  smeared  with  turpentine.  It  would  not,  I think,  be 
popular  in  England,  but  in  India  it  may  pass  for  very  good,  par- 
ticularly when  the  terebinthian  flavour  does  not  predominate. 
When  not  quite  ripe  it  makes  an  excellent  tart. 

June  14. — I have  had  a very  interesting  and  awful  ceremony 
to  perform  in  the  ordination  of  Christian  David,  a native  of 
Malabar,  and  pupil  of  Swartz,  who  has  been  for  many  years  a 
Catechist  in  the  employ  of  the  Society  for  Promoting  Christian 
Knowledge  in  Ceylon,  and  now  came  to  me,  recommended  by 
Archdeacon  Twistleton,  and  qualified  with  the  title  of  a Colonial 
Chaplaincy  by  Sir  Edward  Barnes,  the  Governor  of  the  island. 
David  passed  an  exceeding  good  examination,  and  gave  much 
satisfaction  to  every  body  by  his  modesty,  good  sense,  and  good 
manners.  He  was  ordained  Deacon  on  Holy  Thursday,  on 
which  day  also  I held  my  Visitation,  and  had  a good  attendance 
of  clergy,  and  a numerous  audience,  notwithstanding  the  early 
hour  at  which  it  was  celebrated.  On  Trinity  Sunday  I had  the 
satisfaction  (though  by  me  it  was  felt  at  the  same  time,  in  some 
degree,  a terrible  responsibility)  of  ordaining  him  Priest.  God 
grant  that  his  ministration  may  be  blessed  to  his  own  salvation, 
and  that  of  many  others  ! He  was  lodged  during  his  residence 
in  Bengal  in  the  Bishop’s  College,  and  received  much  atten- 
tion and  kindness  from  Lady  Amherst,  and  many  others.  He 
preached  on  Thursday  evening  at  the  old  Church,  and  it  was 
proposed  to  publish  his  sermon  ; but  this  I thought  it  best  to 
discourage. 


100 


CHAPTER  V. 

CALCUTTA  TO  SIBNIBASHI. 

DEPARTURE PINNACE BENGALEE  BOAT HINDOO  FANATICS NORTH- 
WESTER  CHINSURA RANAGHAT SIBNIBASHI RUINS RAJA  OMI- 

CHU  ND DURBA  R DECOITS . 

June  15. — This  morning  I left  Calcutta  for  my  Visitation 
through  the  Upper  Provinces.  This  excursion,  to  which  both 
my  wife  and  I had  long  looked  forwards  with  delightful  anticipa- 
tions, will  now  become  a dreary  banishment  to  me,  as  the  state 
of  her  own  health,  and  the  circumstance  of  her  having  an  infant, 
are  considered  as  insuperable  obstacles  to  her  undertaking  such 
a journey.  Accompanied  by  my  domestic  chaplain,  Mr.  Stowe, 
I embarked  on  board  a fine  1 6 oared  pinnace  for  Dacca,  which 
was  to  be  the  first  station  on  my  Visitation.  After  about  two 
hours  squabbling  with  the  owner  and  navigators  of  the  vessel, 
we  got  under  weigh,  with  a fine  south  breeze  and  the  flood-tide. 
Archdeacon  Corrie,  with  his  wife  and  children,  accompanied  us 
in  a budgerow,  and  we  had  two  smaller  boats,  one  for  cooking, 
the  other  for  our  baggage.  We  advanced  to  Barrackpoor  that 
night,  and  in  order  to  make  up  for  lost  time,  I urged  the  boatmen 
forwards  a good  while  after  it  was  dark,  the  river  being  familiar 
to  us  all.  The  lights  in  Serampoor  and  Barrackpoor,  the  tall 
massive  shadows  of  the  Government  House,  and  of  two  state 
barges  in  the  river,  which  by  this  uncertain  light  appeared  like 
vessels  of  considerable  importance,  made  our  anchoring  place 
very  beautiful.  Soon  after  we  were  made  snug  for  the  night,  a 
strong  storm  of  rain  and  wind  came  on.  Our  course  during  this 
day  was  pretty  steadily  north-north-west  by  quarter  west, — the 
distance  24  miles. 

June  16. — We  weighed  anchor  about  half-past  four,  and  arrived 
at  Chandernagore  by  half-past  nine.  We  there  paid  the  Gover- 
nor, Mons.  Pelissier,  a visit,  who  pressed  us  to  stay  dinner  with 
him,  which  invitation  we  accepted.  The  Governor’s  house  has 
been  much  beautified  since  I was  here  before,  and  now  has  really 
a very  handsome  appearance.  Between  Barrackpoor  and  Chan- 
dernagore are  some  large  and  handsome  pagodas,  which  are, 
however,  excelled  in  beauty  by  one  of  a smaller  size,  under  a 
noble  grove  of  tall  trees. 

A Bengalee  boat  is  the  simplest  and  rudest  of  all  possible 


CHANDERNAGORE. 


101 


structures.  It  is  decked  over,  throughout  its  whole  length,  with 
bamboo ; and  on  this  is  erected  a low  light  fabric  of  bamboo  and 
straw,  exactly  like  a small  cottage  without  a chimney.  This  is 
the  cabin,  baggage  room,  &c. ; here  the  passengers  sit  and  sleep, 
and  here,  if  it  be  intended  for  a cooking-boat,  are  one  or  two 
small  ranges  of  brick-work,  like  English  hot-hearths,  but  not 
rising  more  than  a few  inches  above  the  deck,  with  small,  round, 
sugar-loaf  holes,  like  those  in  a lime-kiln,  adapted  for  dressing 
victuals  with  charcoal.  As  the  roof  of  this  apartment  is  by  far 
too  fragile  for  men  to  stand  or  sit  on,  and  as  the  apartment  itself 
takes  up  nearly  two-thirds  of  the  vessel,  upright  bamboos  are 
fixed  by  its  side,  which  support  a kind  of  grating  of  the  same 
material,  immediately  above  the  roof,  on  which,  at  the  height 
probably  of  six  or  eight  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  the 
boatmen  sit  or  stand  to  work  the  vessel.  They  have,  for  oars, 
long  bamboos,  with  circular  boards  at  the  end,  a longer  one  of 
the  same  sort  to  steer  with,  a long  rough  bamboo  for  a mast,  and 
one,  or  sometimes  two  sails,  of  a square  form,  (or  rather  broader 
above  than  below,)  of  very  coarse  and  flimsy  canvass.  Nothing 
can  seem  more  clumsy  or  dangerous  than  these  boats.  Danger- 
ous I believe  they  are,  but  with  a fair  wind  they  sail  over  the 
water  merrily.  The  breeze  this  morning  carried  us  along  at  a 
good  rate,  yet  our  English-rigged  brig  could  do  no  more  than  keep 
up  with  the  cooking  boat. 

There  is  a large  ruined  building  a few  miles  to  the  south  of 
Chandernagore,  which  was  the  country  house  of  the  Governor, 
during  the  golden  days  of  that  settlement,  and  of  the  French 
influence  in  this  part  of  India.  It  was  suffered  to  fall  to  decay 
when  Chandernagore  was  seized  by  us ; but  when  Mr.  Corrie 
came  to  India,  was,  though  abandoned,  still  entire,  and  very 
magnificent,  with  a noble  stair-case,  painted  ceilings,  &c. ; and 
altogether,  in  his  opinion,  the  finest  building  of  the  kind  in  this 
country.  It  has  at  present  a very  melancholy  aspect,  and  in  some 
degree  reminded  me  of  Moreton-Corbet,^  having,  like  that,  the 
remains  of  Grecian  pillars  and  ornaments,  with  a high  carved 
pediment.  In  beauty  of  decoration,  however,  it  falls  far  short  of 
Moreton-Corbet,  in  its  present  condition.  This  is  the  only  visible 
sign  of  declining  prosperity  in  this  part  of  the  country.  The 
town  of  Chandernagore  itself,  though  small,  is  neat,  and  even 
handsome.  It  has  a little  Catholic  church,  and  some  very  toler- 
able streets,  with  respectable  dwelling-houses.  An  appearance 
of  neatness  and  comfort  is  exhibited  by  the  native  villages ; and, 
as  an  Indian  generally  lays  out  some  of  his  superfluous  wealth  in 
building  or  adding  to  a pagoda,  it  is  a strong  mark  of  progressive 


* A ruinous  buildino-  in  Shropshirc.—Eu. 


102 


NORTH-WESTER. 


and  rapid  improvement  to  say,  as  Mr,  Corrie  did  to-day,  that  all 
the  large  pagodas  betvsreen  “ Calcutta  and  this  place  have  been 
founded,  or  rebuilt,  in  his  memory.”  This,  however,  I must 
confess,  does  not  tell  much  for  the  inclination  of  the  Hindoos  to 
receive  a new  religion.  Indeed,  except  in  our  schools,  I see  no 
appearance  of  it.  The  austerities  and  idolatries  exercised  by 
them,  strike  me  as  much,  or  1 think  more,  the  more  I see  of 
them.  A few  days  since  I saw  a tall,  large,  elderly  man,  nearly 
naked,  walking  with  three  or  four  others,  who  suddenly  knelt 
down  one  after  the  other,  and  catching  hold  of  his  foot  kissed  it 
repeatedly.  The  man  stood  with  much  gravity  to  allow  them  to 
do  so,  but  said  nothing.  He  had  the  string  (“  peeta”)  of  a Brah- 
min. Another  man  passed  us  on  Sunday  morning  last,  hopping 
on  one  foot.  He  was  a devotee  who  had  made  a vow  never  to 
use  the  other,  which  was  now  contracted,  and  shrunk  close  up  to 
his  hams.  Lately,  too,  I saw  a man  who  held  his  hands  always 
above  his  head,  and  had  thus  lost  the  power  of  bringing  them 
down  to  his  sides.  In  general,  however,  I must  own  that  these 
spectacles  are  not  so  common,  at  least  so  far  as  I can  yet  judge, 
as,  before  I came  to  India,  I expected  to  find  them. 

Chandernagore  was  taken  by  Lord  Clive  and  Admiral  Watson, 
in  1757,  after  a gallant  and  bloody  defence:  and  it  is  worth  re- 
cording, as  a proof  of  the  alterations  which  have  taken  place  in 
this  branch  of  the  Ganges,  that  Watson  brought  up  a 74  gun  ship 
to  batter  it.  It  was  afterwards  restored  to  the  French,  who  lost 
it  again  during  the  war  of  the  Revolution,  but  who  have  now 
received  some  favours  from  the  English  Government,  at  which, 
when  compared  with  the  severity  shown  towards  the  colonists  of 
Serampoor,  the  latter  think  they  have  reason  to  repine. 

We  spent  a very  pleasant  evening  with  Mons.  Pelissier.  Our 
party  consisted  of  his  wife,  daughter,  and  son,  the  physician  and 
secretary  of  the  factory,  and  an  Abbe,  whom  I supposed  to  be  the 
chaplain.  The  little  church,  which  I had  seen  from  the  beach, 
belongs  to  the  “ Thibet  Mission,”  a branch  of  the  Society  “ pro 
propagande  fide,”  at  Rome,  which  seems  to  extend  its  cares  all 
over  India,  which  it  supplies  for  the  most  part  with  Italian  priests, 
though  my  old  visiter,  the  Rev.  Jacob  Mecazenas,  the  Georgian 
monk,  is  one  of  its  agents.  They  have  a bishop  somewhere  near 
Agra,  an  Italian,  and  the  priests /(for  I understood  there  were 
more  than  one  at  Chandernagore)  are  of  this  nation  also.  We 
returned  to  our  pinnace  soon  after  ten. 

June  17. — About  two  o’clock  this  morning  we  had  a north- 
wester, accompanied  with  violent  thunder  and  lightning.  H 
lasted  about  two  hours,  and  was  so  severe,  that  we  could  not  but 
feel  thankful  that  it  had  not  overtaken  us  the  night  before,  while 
we  were  under  sail.  I have  never  heard  louder  thunder,  or  seen 


CHINSURA. 


103 


so  vivid  and  formidable  lightning.  Happily,  our  attendant  boats 
were  close  in  shore,  under  the  shelter  of  the  high  bank,  while  our 
own  mariners  did  their  work  exceedingly  well  and  quietly,  letting 
go  a second  anchor,  and  veering  out  as  much  cable  as  they  had 
on  board.  After  having  done  all  that  under  such  circumstances 
was  to  be  done,  they  gave  the  cry  of  “ Allah  hu  Allah !”  and  went 
to  prayers,  a circumstance  which,  unaccompanied  as  it  was  by 
any  marks  of  confusion  or  trepidation,  gave  me  a very  favourable 
impression  of  them,  though  1 afterwards  recollected  that  it  was 
in  fact  pretty  near  the  hour  when  that  call  is  uttered  from  the 
mosque,  which  used  to  thrill  me  when  I heard  it  in  the  Crimea, 
“ Prayer  is  better  than  sleep ! prayer  is  better  than  sleep !”  Our 
boat,  with  this  length  of  cable,  rode  well  and  easily,  but  we  had 
some  troublesome  work  in  closing  the  cabin  windows,  as  our 
rooms,  and  all  they  contained,  were  getting  a complete  cold  bath. 
Indeed,  there  really  ran  something  like  a sea  in  the  channel  of  the 
river  where  we  now  lay.  What  passed  gave  me  confidence  in  the 
vessel  and  her  crew.  The  latter  are  numerous,  sixteen  rowers, 
four  men  accustomed  to  the  management  of  the  sails,  and  the 
serang,  all  Mussulmans,  and  natives  of  Dacca,  and  its  vicinity. 
They  are  wild  and  odd-looking  people,  light-limbed,  and  lean, 
and  very  black,  but  strong  and  muscular,  and  all  young  men,  with 
a fiercer  eye  and  far  less  civil  manner  than  the  Hindoos  of  Cal- 
cutta, to  which  expression  of  character  their  dress  contributes, 
(when  they  wear  any,  which  is  the  case  this  cool  morning,)  being 
old  uniform  jackets  of  the  infantry  and  artillery,  with  red  caps 
and  dirty  turbans  wrapped  round  them.  As  they  sat  round  the 
fire  this  morning,  cooking  their  victuals  for  breakfast,  they  might 
pass  for  no  bad  representatives  of  Malay  pirates.  The  wind, 
though  much  abated,  continued  till  after  five  to  blow  so  hard,  that 
the  boatmen  declined  heaving  anchor;  but  having  then  shifted  to 
the  south  again,  we  set  off,  and  sailed  with  great  rapidity  by  Chin- 
sura  and  Hooghly,  which  form  almost  one  town,  with  some  large 
and  handsome,  though  deserted-looking,  houses.  At  Chinsura 
is  a church,  and  beyond  Hooghly,  at  a place  I believe  named 
Banda,  is  a large  Italian-looking  church,  with  what  appears  to  be 
a convent.  The  river  here  contracts  very  much,  the  banks  are 
higher  and  more  precipitous,  and  the  view  of  the  channel,  with 
our  little  fleet  in  it,  extremely  picturesque  and  pretty.  I hailed 
Mr.  Corrie,  and  was  glad  to  hear  they  had  sustained  no  damage 
in  the  storm.  The  river  now  again  expanded  into  a broad  sheet 
of  water,  with  rice-grounds  on  each  side,  and  the  villages  further 
removed  from  each  other,  but  each  marked  out  by  its  wood  of 
tall  fruit  trees.  The  country,  except  that  the  river  is  so  much 
wider,  is  not  at  all  unlike  some  parts  of  Oxfordshire  and  Buck- 
inghamshire on  the  Thames.  There  are  fewer  pagodas  to  be 


104 


ROBBERS. 


seen,  and  none  so  handsome  as  those  we  have  passed.  There  is, 
however,  a rather  more  abundant  sprinkling  of  European-like 
houses  and  bungalows,  the  residences  of  the  indigo  planters,  as 
our  boatmen  tell  us.  And  one  of  the  villages,  which  has  two  or 
three  brick  houses,  and  a small  low  tower  attached  to  one  of  them, 
was  interesting  to  us,  from  the  sort  of  resemblance  it  offered  to 
some  in  our  own  dear  England.  A little  above  this  village  we 
passed  “ a sign  of  a civilized  country,”  being  a gibbet,  with  two 
men  in  chains  on  it,  who  were,  as  our  Serang  told  us,  executed 
two  years  ago  for  robbery  and  murder  in  this  neighbourhood,  but 
not  on  the  river.  The  district  bears  a bad  name  for  all  sorts  of 
robbery.  A mile  or  two  higher  up  is  a large  island,  which  seems 
to  have  been  recently  deserted  by  the  stream,  and  not  yet  taken 
possession  of  by  man,  being  mostly  bare  sand,  and  bordered  by 
long  grass  and  reeds  (not  bamboos),  a very  likely  place  for  wild 
beasts  to  harbour.  It  was  indeed  in  this  neighbourhood  that  Mrs. 
Corrie  saw  the  fresh  print  of  a tiger’s  feet,  exactly  like  those  of 
a cat,  but  each  as  large  as  a good  sized  plate.  Here  again  the 
banks  of  the  river  are  precipitous,  and  Southey  might  have  taken 
the  spot  as  the  scene  of  his  Kailyal,  and  the  image  of  her  guardian 
goddess  falling  down  the  crumbling  steep  into  the  river.  A few 
miles  further  brought  us  to  a broad  channel,  which  diverged  to 
our  right  hand  from  the  main  bed  of  the  river,  being  in  fact  a 
stream  flowing  into  the  Hooghly,  and  itself  derived  from  the 
Matabunga,  a branch  of  the  great  Ganges,  which  flows  from  the 
neighbourhood  of  Jellinghy  to  the  centre  of  the  Sunderbunds. 
This,  when  there  is  water  enough  to  float  large  vessels,  is  the 
most  direct  communication  between  Calcutta  and  Dacca,  and 
we  had  some  reason  to  hope  we  might  find  it  navigable  at  present. 
We  anchored  therefore  at  the  mouth,  and  sent  the  jolly-boat  with 
the  Serang  and  Abdullah,"^  to  make  inquiry  at  Seebpoor,  a place 
where  toll  is  paid,  a little  within  the  entrance.  I sent  Abdullah, 
who  speaks  English,  in  the  belief  that  an  European  was  stationed 
there,  from  whom  he  was  more  likely  to  obtain  information  than 
a Dandee.  In  the  meantime,  and  after  they  had  been  gone  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  the  wind  changed  two  points  more  westerly, 
and  began  to  blow  harder,  so  that  I perceived  we  should  have 
some  difficulty  to  avoid  going  ashore,  from  which  we  were  scarcely 
half  a cable’s  length  distant.  I therefore  proposed  to  the  boat- 
men to  weigh  anchor,  and  proceed  a little  farther,  while  yet  we 
had  the  power.  They  readily  assented,  and  were  going  to  do  so, 
when  the  return  of  the  Serang  put  a stop  to  our  proceedings. 

* This  man  was  a Mussulman  convert  of  Mr.  Corrie’s,  who  had  travelled  in 
Persia  with  Sir  Gore  Ousley,  and  accompanied  him  to  England,  from  whence 
he  was  returning  in  the  Grenville,  in  a state  of  great  poverty,  when  the  Bishop 
took  him  into  his  service  as  “ jemautdar,”  or  head  officer  of  the  Peons. — Ed. 


PINNACE  AGROIJND-^RANAGHAT. 


105 


He,  indeed,  immediately  called  to  them,  on  reaching  the  vessel, 
to  go  on  with  what  they  had  begun,  at  the  same  time  sending 
some  men  with  long  bamboos  to  the  stern,  to  stave  the  vessel  off 
the  shore.  This  was  very  necessary,  since  ashore  she  went  in  a 
few  minutes,  and  the  wind  freshening,  and  there  being  little  or  no 
tide  to  help  us  here,  I concluded  that  we  were  to  continue  lixed 
till  the  rising  of  the  river  from  the  rains  set  us  free.  To  my  sur- 
prise, however,  the  matter  was  settled  in  a few  minutes  ; all  the 
crew  but  the  Serang,  who  remained  to  steer,  jumped  into  the 
water  about  as  high  as  their  waists.  Half  the  party  by  main 
strength  and  weight  of  pressure,  thrust  off  the  boat  from  the  bank, 
while,  as  soon  as  she  floated,  the  rest  began  to  tow  a-head.  They 
thus  carried  her  merrily  along  the  lee  shore  for  about  200  yards, 
when  the  headland  being  passed,  we  had  again  sea  room,  and  they 
all  swam  on  board  like  so  many  water-rats.  This,  of  course, 
shows  the  extreme  lightness  of  our  vessel,  and  how  little  water 
boats  of  her  class  require.  In  the  meantime  I was  hearing  the 
report  of  Abdullah  and  the  Serang,  who,  as  it  appeared  now,  had 
discovered  no  “ Chokey”  or  toll-house,  nor  any  thing  of  the  kind. 
They  found,  however,  two  large  native  boats  which  had  just  come 
down  the  river,  whose  crew  assured  them  there  was  plenty  of 
water  for  a vessel  of  greater  burthen  than  ours,  while  their  ac- 
count was  in  other  respects  so  favourable  as  to  distance  and  time 
saved,  that  I made  up  my  mind  at  once  to  go  this  way.  .Accord- 
ingly, as  Mr.  Corrie’s  budgerow  was  in  sight,  I got  into  the  jolly- 
boat,  and  went  aboard  to  tell  him  my  change  of  plan.  We  parted 
with  mutual  kind  wishes,  and  in  the  hope  of  meeting  again  at 
Boglipoor  the  20th  of  July. 

Besides  the  saving  of  time  which  my  journey  to  Dacca  by  this 
course  will  occasion,  1 am  not  sorry  to  go  through  a part  of  the 
country  which  I am  told  not  many  Europeans  traverse,  and  where 
there  are  no  stations  or  other  usual  places  of  intercourse  between 
them  and  the  natives.  We  set  sail  about  half  past  one,  and  con- 
tinued our  course  along  the  new  channel  till  evening.  We  found 
it  about  as  wide  as  the  Dee  a little  below  Chester,  flowing  with  a 
gentle  and  equable  stream  from  the  north-east  by  north,  through 
fields  cultivated  to  a considerable  extent  with  indigo.  Several 
porpoises  were  playing  round  the  vessel,  and  a good  many  fisher- 
men came  up  to  offer  their  wares  for  sale.  We  continued  our 
course  through  a country  more  bare  of  trees  and  more  abundant 
in  pasture  than  those  parts  of  Bengal  which  I had  yet  seen,  till 
half  past  five  in  the  evening,  when  the  men,  heartily  tired,  begged 
leave  to  halt  for  the  night  at  a place  named  Ranaghat.  This  is 
a large  village,  with  two  very  noble  villas,  like  those  of  the  rich 
Baboos  in  Calcutta,  the  property  of  a wealthy  Hindoo  family  of 
the  name  of  Kishnapantee.  A little  before  we  reached  these,  we 
VoL.  1, — 14 


106 


SIBNIBASHL 


had  passed  a ruined  palace  of  an  old  Raja  of  Bengal  (the  boat- 
men knew  no  more  of  him)  and  its  name  Urdun  Kali.  We  took 
a short  walk  after  dinner,  but  found  it  too  hot  to  go  far.  The 
scenery  is  still  like  that  near  the  Thames,  and  the  likeness  is  in- 
creased by  the  circumstance  that  there  are  no  coco-trees.  The 
high  crumbling  bank  of  the  river  is  full  of  small  holes  containing 
the  nests  of  the  Mynas,  and  1 saw  a field  of  what  I took  for  millet, 
which  I did  not  know  was  a product  of  India.  Our  boatmen, 
who  had  been  in  and  out  of  the  water  like  any  amphibious  crea- 
tures, sometimes  rowing,  sometimes  pushing,  sometimes  dragging 
our  bark  along  the  narrow  and  winding  channel,  displaying  great 
spirit,  cheerfulness,  and  activity,  were  seated  on  the  bank  dressing 
for  supper  the  fish  which  they  had  bought  from  the  boats  I men- 
tioned ; while  apart,  at  cautious  distance,  and  within  their  magic 
circle  of  chalk,  our  Hindoo  servants  were  preparing  a more  frugal 
repast  of  rice,  currie,  and  pine  apples,  which  cost  exactly  a pice 
a piece.  Of  the  small  fish  a pice  will  buy  two  large  handfuls,  as 
much  as  a man  can  well  keep  in  his  grasp.  The  fires  of  these 
different  messes  were  very  picturesque,  and  the  more  so,  as  a little 
further  down,  the  crews  of  the  cooking  and  baggage  boats  had 
each  their  little  bivouac.  I was  glad  these  poor  people  got  their 
supper  over  before  the  usual  north-wester  and  its  fall  of  rain  came 
to  drive  them  under  cover.  The  wind,  however,  was  a mere 
nothing,  and  even  if  it  had  been  a storm,  it  could  not  have  touched 
us  in  our  present  situation. 

June  1 8. — Our  course  from  Ranaghat  was  up  a wider  and  a 
deeper  stream,  and  chiefly  to  the  N.  W.  a circumstance  irrecon- 
cileable  with  Rennel’s  map,  unless  the  discrepancy  can  be  ac- 
counted for  by  an  extraordinary  alteration  of  the  river’s  channel. 
The  banks  here  are  higher  and  more  precipitous,  the  country 
woody,  and  sometimes  really  very  interesting,  while  coco-trees, 
of  which  we  supposed  we  had  taken  leave,  re-appeared,  and  con- 
tinued to  tower,  from  time  to  time,  over  the  bamboos,  banyans, 
and  fruit-trees. 

About  half-past  five  we  brought  to  for  the  night,  at  a place 
which  our  crew  called  Sibnibashi,  but  so  differently  situated, 
(being  further  to  the  south,  and  on  a different  side  of  the  river) 
from  the  Sibnibas  of  Rennel,  that  I at  first  thought  they  must  be 
mistaken.  We  landed,  wfith  the  intention  of  walking  to  some 
pagodas,  whose  high  angular  domes  were  seen  above  the  trees  of 
a thick  wood,  at  some  small  distance ; which  wood  however,  as 
we  approached  it,  we  found  to  be  full  of  ruins,  apparently  of  an 
interesting  description.  Near  our  landing-place  a row  of  large 
Kedgeree  pots,  with  their  mouths  carefully  covered  with  leather, 
as  if  just  landed  from  a boat,  attracted  our  attention.  Abdullah 
said  that  they  probably  contained  Ganges  water  from  Benares  or 


RUINS, 


107 


Hurdwar,  which  the  Hindoos  of  high  rank  used  for  washing  their 
idols ; and  that,  in  this  case,  they  might  be  destined  for  the  same 
employment  in  the  pagoda  before  us.  As  we  advanced  along  the 
shore,  the  appearance  of  ruins  in  the  jungle  became  more  unequi- 
vocal ; and  two  very  fine  intelligent-looking  boys  whom  we  met, 
told  me,  in  answer  to  my  inquiries,  that  the  place  was  really  Sib- 
nibashi, — that  it  was  very  large  and  very  old,  and  that  there  were 
good  paths  through  the  ruins.  These  boys  were  naked,  all  but 
their  waist-cloths,  like  the  other  peasants  ; they  had,  however,  the 
Brahminical  string  over  their  shoulders  ; and  Stowe,  who,  as  well 
as  myself,  was  much  struck  by  their  manner,  pleasing  counte- 
nances, and  comparatively  fair  complexions,  observed,  that  the 
Brahmins  seemed  really  to  maintain  a certain  degree  of  superi- 
ority of  intellect  over  the  unprivileged  classes.  After  a few  ques- 
tions, they  whispered  to  each  other,  and  ran  towards  the  jungle, 
leaving  us  to  pursue  our  track,  which  was  narrow  and  winding, 
through  masses  of  brick-work  and  earthen  mounds,  with  many 
tamarind  and  peepul  trees,  intermixed  with  thickets  of  cactus, 
bamboo,  and  a thorny  plant  a little  like  the  acacia,  on  the  whole 
reminding  me  of  some  parts  of  the  Roman  wall  at  Silchester.  We 
found  four  pagodas,  not  large,  but  of  good  architecture,  and  very 
picturesque,  so  that  I much  regretted  the  having  left  my  sketch- 
book on  board,  and  the  more  so  because  it  was  now  too  late  to 
get  it  before  dusk.  The  sight  of  one  of  the  peons,  who  had  fol- 
lowed me,  though  without  orders,  with  his  silver  mace,  procured 
us  much  respect  from  the  Brahmins  and  villagers,  and  the  former 
were  urgent  to  show  us  their  temples.  The  first  which  we  visited 
was  evidently  the  most  modern,  being,  as  the  officiating  Brahmin 
told  us,  only  fifty-seven  years  old.  In  England  we  should  have 
thought  it  at  least  200 : but  in  this  climate  a building  soon  assumes, 
without  constant  care,  all  the  venerable  tokens  of  antiquity.  It 
was  very  clean,  however,  and  of  good  architecture;  a square 
tower,  surmounted  by  a pyramidal  roof,  with  a high  cloister  of 
pointed  arches  surrounding  it  externally  to  within  ten  feet  of  the 
springing  of  the  vault.  The  cloister  was  also  vaulted,  so  that,  as 
the  Brahmin  made  me  observe,  with  visible  pride,  the  whole  roof 
was  ‘‘  pucka,”  or  brick,  and  “ belathee,”  or  foreign.  A very 
handsome  gothic  arch,  with  an  arabesque  border,  opened  on  the 
south  side,  and  showed  within  the  statue  of  Rama,  seated  on  a 
lotus,  with  a gilt  but  tarnished  umbrella  over  his  head ; and  his 
wife,  the  earthborn  Seeta,  beside  him.  A sort  of  dessert  of  rice, 
ghee,  fruit,  sugar-candy,  &c.  was  ranged  before  them  on  what  had 
the  appearance  of  silver  dishes ; and  the  remaining  furniture  of 
the  temple  consisted  of  a large  gong  hanging  on  the  wall,  and  some 
Kedgeree  pots  similar  to  those  which  we  had  noticed.  From  hence 
we  went  to  two  of  the  other  temples,  which  were  both  octagonal, 


108 


RUINS. 


with  domes  not  unlike  those  of  glass-houses.  They  were  both 
dedicated  to  Siva,  (who  Abdullah,  according  to  his  Mussulman 
notions,  said  was  the  same  with  Adam,)  and  contained  nothing  but 
the  symbol  of  the  deity,  of  black  marble.  On  paying  my  fee  to 
the  Brahmins  who  kept  these  shrines,  I was  surprised  to  find  that 
they  would  not  receive  it  immediately  from  my  hand,  but  that 
they  requested  me  first  to  lay  it  down  on  the  threshold.  I thought 
it  right  to  explain  that  I meant  it  for  them,  and  in  return  for  their 
civility,  not  as  an  offering  to  their  god  ; but  they  answered,  that 
they  could  not  receive  any  thing  except  from  their  own  caste,  un- 
less it  were  thus  laid  before  them.  I therefore  of  course  complied, 
though  a little  surprised  at  a delicacy  of  which  1 had  found  no 
symptom  in  those  Brahmins  whom  I had  previously  met  with. 
This  was  not  the  only  unforeseen  circumstance  which  occurred. 
As  the  two  temples  of  Siva  really  contained  nothing  to  see,  1 
thought  one  rupee  was  enough,  in  all  conscience,  between  them, 
and  told  the  priests  that  they  were  to  divide  it.  No  sooner,  however, 
had  it  touched  the  threshold,  than  the  two  old  men  began  scram- 
bling for  it  in  a most  indecorous  manner,  abusing  each  other,  spit- 
ting, stamping,  clapping  their  hands,  and  doing  every  thing  but 
striking ; the  one  insisting  that  it  belonged  to  him,  whose  threshold 
it  had  touched  ; the  other  urging  the  known  intentions  of  the  do- 
nor. I tried  to  pacify  them,  but  found  it  of  no  use,  and  left  them 
in  the  midst  of  the  fray.  Meantime  the  priest  of  Rama,  who  had 
received  his  fee  before,  and  was  well  satisfied,  came  up,  with 
several  of  the  villagers,  to  ask  if  I would  see  the  Raja’s  palace. 
On  my  assenting,  they  led  us  to  a really  noble  gothic  gateway, 
overgrown  with  beautiful  broad-leaved  ivy,  but  in  good  preserva- 
tion, and  decidedly  handsomer,  though  in  pretty  much  the  same 
style,  with  the  “ Holy  Gate”  of  the  Kremlin  in  Moscow.  Within 
this,  which  had  apparently  been  the  entrance  into  the  city,  ex- 
tended a broken  but  still  stately  avenue  of  tall  trees,  and  on  either 
side  a wilderness  of  ruined  buildings,  overgrown  with  trees  and 
brushwood,  which  reminded  Stowe  of  the  baths  of  Caracalla,  and 
me  of  the  upper  part  of  the  city  of  Caffa.  I asked  who  had  de- 
stroyed the  place,  and  was  told  Seraiah  Dowla,  an  answer  which 
(as  it  was  evidently  a Hindoo  ruin)  fortunately  suggested  to  me 
the  name  of  the  Raja  Kissen  Chund.  On  asking  whether  this  had 
been  his  residence,  one  of  the  peasants  answered  in  the  affirma- 
tive, adding  that  the  Raja’s  grand-children  yet  lived  hard  by.  By 
this  I supposed  he  meant  somewhere  in  the  neighbourhood,  since 
nothing  here  promised  shelter  to  any  beings  but  wild  beasts,  and 
as  I went  along  1 could  not  help  looking  carefully  before  me,  and 
thinking  of  Thalaba  in  the  ruins  of  Babylon  ; 


RAJA’S  PALACE. 


109 


« Cautiously  he  trode  and  felt 

The  dangerous  ground  before  him  with  his  bow; 

Hi  Hi  * * 

The  adder,  at  the  noise  alarmed, 

Launched  at  th’  intruding  staff  her  arrowy  tongue.” 

Our  guide  meantime  turned  short  to  the  right  and  led  us  into 
what  were  evidently  the  ruins  of  a very  extensive  palace.  Some 
parts  of  it  reminded  me  of  Conway  Castle,  and  others  of  Bolton 
Abbey.  It  had  towers  like  the  former,  though  of  less  stately 
height,  and  had  also  long  and  striking  cloisters  of  Gothic  arches, 
but  all  overgrown  with  ivy  and  jungle,  roofless  and  desolate. 
Here,  however  in  a court,  whose  gateway  had  still  its  old  folding 
doors  on  their  hinges,  the  two  boys  whom  we  had  seen  on  the 
beach  came  forward  to  meet  us,  were  announced  to  us  as  the 
great  grand-sons  of  Raja  Kissen  Chund,  and  invited  us  very  cour- 
teously in  Persian,  'to  enter  their  father’s  dwelling.  I looked 
round  in  exceeding  surprise.  There  was  no  more  appearance 
of  inhabitation  than  in  Conway.  Two  or  three  cows  were  graz- 
ing among  the  ruins,  and  one  was  looking  out  from  the  top  of  a 
dilapidated  turret,  whither  she  had  scrambled  to  browze  on  the 
ivy.  The  breech  of  a broken  cannon,  and  a fragment  of  a muti- 
lated inscription,  lay  on  the  grass,  which  was  evidently  only  kept 
down  by  the  grazing  of  cattle ; and  the  jackalls,  whose  yells  began 
to  be  heard  around  us  as  the  evening  closed  in,  seemed  the  na- 
tural lords  of  the  place.  Of  course,  I expressed  no  astonishment, 
but  said  how  much  respect  1 felt  for  their  family,  of  whose  an- 
cient splendour  I was  well  informed,  and  that  I should  be  most 
happy  to  pay  my  compliments  to  the  Raja,  their  father.  They 
immediately  led  us  up  a short,  steep,  straight  flight  of  steps,  in  the 
thickness  of  the  wall  of  one  of  the  towers,  precisely  such  as  that 
of  which  we  find  the  remains  in  one  of  the  gateways  of  Rhuddlan 
Castle,  assuring  me  that  it  was  a very  “ good  road and  at  the 
door  of  a little  vaulted  and  unfurnished  room  like  that  which  is 
shown  in  Carnarvon  Castle,  as  the  queen’s  bed-chamber,  we  were 
received  by  the  Raja  Omichund,  a fat  shortish  man,  of  about  45, 
of  rather  fair  complexion,  but  with  no  other  clothes  than  his 
waistcloth  and  Brahminical  string,  and  only  distinguished  from 
his  vassals  by  having  his  forehead  marked  all  over  with  alternate 
stripes  of  chalk,  vermilion,  and  gold  leaf.  The  boys  had  evident- 
ly run  home  to  inform  him  of  our  approach,  and  he  had  made 
some  preparation  to  receive  us  in  Durbar.  His  own  Musnud 
was  ready,  a kind  of  mattrass  laid  on  the  ground,  on  which,  with 
a very  harmless  ostentation,  he  had  laid  a few  trinkets,  a gold 
watch,  betel-nut  box,  &c.  &c.  Two  old  arm  chairs  were  placed 
opposite  for  Stowe  and  me.  The  young  Rajas  sat  down  at  their 
father’s  right  hand,  and  his  naked  domestics  ranged  themselves 


no 


THE  RAJA  OMICHUND. 


in  a line  behind  him,  with  their  hands  respectfully  folded.  On 
the  other  side  the  Sotaburdar  stood  behind  me ; Stowe’s  servant 
took  place  behind  him,  and  Abdullah  between  us  as  his  inter- 
preter, which  function  he  discharged  extremely  well,  and  which 
was  the  more  necessary,  since,  in  strict  conformity  with  court 
etiquette,  the  conversation  passed  in  Persian.  I confess  1 was 
moved  by  the  apparent  poverty  of  the  representative  of  a house 
once  very  powerful,  and  paid  him  more  attention  than  I perhaps 
might  have  done  had  his  drawing  room  presented  a more  prince- 
ly style.  He  was  exceedingly  pleased  by  my  calling  him  “ Ma- 
ha-rajah,”  or  Great  King,  as  if  he  were  still  a sovereign  like  his 
ancestors,  and  acknowledged  the  compliment  by  a smile,  and  a 
profound  reverence.  He  seemed,  however,  much  puzzled  to 
make  out  my  rank,  never  having  heard  (he  said)  of  any  “ Lord 
Sahib,”  except  the  Governor-General,  while  he  was  still  more 
perplexed  by  the  exposition  of  “ Lord  Bishop  Sahib,”  which  for 
some  reason  or  other  my  servants  always  prefer  to  that  of  “ Lord 
Padre.”  He  apologized  very  civilly  for  his  ignorance,  observing 
that  he  had  not  been  for  many  years  in  Calcutta,  and  that  very 
few  Sahibs  ever  came  that  way.  I told  him  that  I was  going  to 
Dacca,  Benares,  Delhi,  and  possibly  Hurdwar;  that  I was  to  re- 
turn in  nine  or  ten  months,  and  that  should  he  visit  Calcutta 
again,  it  would  give  me  great  pleasure  if  he  would  come  to  see 
me.  He  said  he  seldom  stirred  froni  home,  but  as  he  spoke  his 
sons  looked  at  him  with  so  much  earnest  and  intelligible  expres- 
sion of  countenance,  that  he  added  that  ‘‘  his  boys  would  be  de- 
lighted to  see  Calcutta,  and  wait  on  me.”  He  then  asked  very 
particularly  of  Abdullah  in  what  street  and  what  house  I lived. 
After  a short  conversation  of  this  kind,  and  some  allusions  on  my 
part  to  his  ancestors  and  their  ancient  wealth  and  splendour, 
which  were  well  taken,  we  took  leave,  escorted  to  the  gate  by 
our  two  young  friends,  and  thence  by  a nearer  way  through  the 
ruins  to  our  pinnace,  by  an  elderly  man,  who  said  he  was  the 
Raja’s  “ Muktar,”  or  chamberlain,  and  whose  obsequious  cour- 
tesy, high  reverence  for  his  master’s  family,  and  numerous  apolo- 
gies for  the  unprepared  state  in  which  we  had  found  “ the 
court,”  reminded  me  of  old  Caleb  Balderstone. 

We  had  not  yet,  however,  done  with  our  acquaintance.  In 
about  an  half  an  hour’s  time  the  Muktar  returned,  and  had  a 
conversation  with  Abdullah,  apparently  to  ascertain  what  my 
real  rank  was,  and  with  directions  to  act  accordingly.  At  least 
after  receiving  satisfaction  on  the  points  in  question,  he  desired 
to  see  me,  and  announced  that  his  master  intended  visiting  me. 

I at  first  declined  the  honour,  saying  that  we  were  travellers,  that 
I was  obliged  to  be  off  very  early  in  the  morning,  and  that  1 had 
no  means  with  me  of  receiving  him  as  1 could  wish  to  do.  The 


THIEVESi 


111 


old  man  however  persisted,  saying  that  his  master  would  come 
immediately,  and  that  “ where  there  was  friendship  (joining  his 
hands  and  cringing  almost  to  the  threshold)  ceremony  was  unne- 
cessary.” Stowe  was  gone  to  bed,  however  I made  ready  to  re- 
ceive them ; but  the  Raja  after  all  excused  himself  on  account 
of  the  night  air,  and  only  sent  his  sons,  who  had  by  this  time 
completely  transformed  themselves  into  eastern  beaux,  by  the  ad- 
dition of  white  muslin  dresses,  and  turbans  of  gold  brocade. 
They  brought  also  a present  of  mangoes,  sugar,  and  pastry,  and 
advanced  with  the  usual  nuzzur,  after  the  manner  of  Calcutta. 
They  sate  some  time,  occasionally  answering  me  in  Hindoos- 
tanee,  but  generally  preferring  Persian,  of  their  acquirements  in 
which  they  seemed  proud,  and  they  expressed  some  surprise  that 
I did  not  speak  it.  They  were  like  most  of  the  young  Indians  I 
have  seen,  very  lively,  gentlemanly,  and  intelligent,  anxious  to  ob- 
tain information  about  Europe,  and  expressing  repeatedly  the 
pleasure  they  expected  from  a visit  to  Calcutta.  At  length  as  a 
sign  of  their  “ ruksut,”  or  dismissal,  I poured  some  lavender 
water  on  their  hands  and  handkerchiefs,  apologizing  that  I had  no 
attar,  and  saying  that  it  was  “ belattee  gulab,”  (foreign  rose- 
water.) They  liked  it  to  all  appearance  much,  and  we  part- 
ed excellent  friends.  On  the  whole,  I have  been  greatly 
pleased  with  the  evening’s  adventure.  It  has  given  me  an  oppor- 
tunity of  seeing  the  highest  class  of  Hindoo  families,  in  their  un- 
dress and  daily  habits  of  life.  I had  heard  much  of  their  sim- 
plicity, as  compared  with  the  Mussulmans  ; and  even  in  the 
present  instance,  1 am  not  quite  sure  whether  it  is  to  this  sim- 
plicity, or  to  the  poverty  which  I at  first  suspected,  but  which 
seemed  contradicted  by  the  appearance  of  the  boys  in  the  even- 
ing, that  I am  to  attribute  the  sorry  appearance  of  “ the  court,” 
and  the  dilapidated  state  in  which  the  mansion  is  allowed  to  con- 
tinue. I ought  to  mention,  that  after  the  boys  were  gone,  the  old 
Muktar  remained  for  some  minutes  behind,  hoping  they  had  given 
me  satisfaction ; regretting  that  his  master  had  the  asthma,  and 
saying,  how  grand  a present  would  have  been  sent,  if  they  had 
had  more  notice ; and  at  length,  asking  permission  to  accompany 
his  young  lords  when  they  came  to  see  me.  So  ended  the  even- 
ing, but  not  so  the  night.  The  news  had  probably  spread  through 
the  village,  that  a “ burra  admee”  (a  great  man)  had  come  to 
see  the  Raja,  with  divers  accounts  of  our  riches  and  splendour ; 
and  about  one  o’clock  an  alarm  of  thieves  was  given  by  my  sir- 
dar-bearer, who  happening  to  look  out  of  one  of  the  cabin  win- 
dows, saw  three  black  heads  just  above  the  water,  cautiously 
approaching  the  sides  of  the  vessel.  His  outcry  of  “ Decoit ! 
Decoit !”  alarmed  us,  but  also  alarmed  them  ; they  turned  rapid- 
ly round,  and  in  a moment  were  seen  running  up  the  river  banks. 
Thus  we  had  a specimen  of  both  the  good  and  evil  of  India. 


112 


CHAPTER  VI. 

SIBNIBASHI  TO  DACCA. 

GIPSIES WINGED  BUGS— MATABUNGA FISHING DIFFICULT  PASSAGE 

IN  THE  KIVER BRAHMINY  BULLS TITYBANIA ORNAMENTED 

BOATS STRONG  CURRENT OTTERS AVALANCHES PAWN KHYZR 

ELEPHANTS  BATHING. 

June  19. — We  again  proceeded,  still  for  the  most  part  in  a 
northerly  or  north-westerly  direction.  The  river  this  day  was 
much  broader  than  we  have  yet  seen  it,  with  sandy  banks,  cover- 
ed with  low  silky  rushes.  Many  cormorants,  cranes,  and  por- 
poises were  seen,  but  no  alligators  or  crocodiles,  though  these 
shores  I should  have  thought  were  well  adapted  to  them.  The 
day  was  very  hot.  We  anchored  at  a place  called  Kishenpol, 
where  the  river  had  a decidedly  western  course.  This  place  is 
not  marked  by  Rennel,  who  is  indeed  nearly  useless  here.  The 
neighbourhood  is  dry,  sandy,  and  open,  but  with  a good  many 
villages  in  sight,  each  with  its  adjacent  wood,  and  the  parts  near 
the  river  cultivated  with  indigo,  which  I am  told  delights  in  a 
sandy  soil.  Some  scattered  ears  of  maize  were  growing  among 
it.  The  banks  were  precipitous,  and  covered  with  fine  long  silky 
rushes,  evidently  of  a kind  which  would  be  very  valuable  for 
cordage,  &c.  like  the  “ espantq”  of  Spain.  Here  they  are  only 
used  as  thatch,  for  which  they  are  reckoned  better  than  straw. 
This  sort  of  cover  is,  I understand,  the  favourite  haunt  of  the 
tiger,  who  likes  the  neighbourhood  of  water,  and  the  power  at 
the  same  time  of  lying  dry  and  clean.  Abdullah  told  us  several 
circumstances  about  the  tiger,  which  at  least  were  curious,  as 
showing  the  popular  notions  respecting  him  in  India  : He  not 

fierce,  but  very  civil  when  he  not  provoked  or  very  hungry  ; he 
then  meddle  with  nobody.”  He  ascribed  to  him  in  fact  many  of 
the  noble  and  generous  properties,  which,  perhaps  with  equal 
justice,  have  been  ascribed  to  the  lion.  He  had  been,  he  said, 
when  he  was  in  service  before,  at  one  or  two  tiger  hunts.  The 
tiger  once  wounded  never  thought  of  flying  afterwards,  and  ex- 
cept a short  little  roar  when  he  sprung  at  his  prey  or  his  enemies, 
he  was  always  silent  both  under  wounds  and  in  death.  On  asking, 
if  a tiger  should  cross  our  path,  what  would  he  do,  he  steadily 
repeated,  “ he  do  no  harm,  we  not  fire  at  him.”  “ Would  he  be 


GIPSIES. 


113 


frightened  at  us?”  “Oh,  no,  he  afraid  of  nothing,  and  no- 
body.” 

On  the  other  side  of  the  river  was  a large  encampment  of 
wretched  tents  of  mats,  with  a number  of  little  hackeries,  pan- 
niers, ponies,  goats,  &;c.  so  like  gipsies,  that  on  asking  what  they 
were,  I was  not  much  surprised  to  hear  Abdullah  say  they  were 
gipsies  ; that  they  were  numerous  in  the  upper  provinces,  living 
exactly  like  the  gipsies  in  England ; that  he  had  seen  the  same 
people  both  in  Persia  and  Russia,  and  that  in  Persia  they  spoke 
Hindoostanee  the  same  as  here.  In  Russia  he  had  had  no  oppor- 
tunity of  ascertaining  this  fact ; but  in  Persia,  by  Sir  Gore  Ous- 
ley’s  desire,  he  had  spoken  with  some  of  the  w^andering  tribes,  and 
found  that  they  understood  and  could  answer  him.  I told  him  of 
Lord  Teignmouth’s  conversation  in  Hindoostanee  with  the  old 
gipsy  on  Northwood,  and  he  said  that  in  Persia  it  was  not  every 
gipsy  who  spoke  it,  only  old  people.  He  said  they  were  so  like 
each  other  in  all  the  countries  where  he  had  seen  them,  that  they 
could  not  be  mistaken,  though  in  Persia  they  were  of  much  bet- 
ter caste,  and  much  richer  than  here,  or  in  England,  or  Russia. 
But  he  added,  “ I suppose  in  Russia,  before  Peter  the  Great,  all 
people  much  like  gipsies.”  There  were  many  curious  circum- 
stances which  I deduced  from  his  information  : first,  the  identity 
of  the  gipsy  race  in  Europe  and  India,  and  their  connecting  link 
seemed  established  by  a very  observant  witness,  and  certainly  one 
unprejudiced  by  system.  Secondly,  on  further  inquiry,  I found 
the  people  whom  he  identified  with  our  gipsies  in  Persia,  were 
the  wandering  tribes  of  Louristan,  Curdistan,  &c.  whom  he  de- 
scribed with  truth  as  being  of  “ good  caste,”  valiant  and  wealthy. 
It  therefore  follows,  that  these  tribes,  whose  existence  in  Persia 
seems  to  be  traced  down  from  before  the  time  of  Cyrus,  and 
whose  language  is  generally  understood  to  differ  from  the  Per- 
sians of  the  plains  and  cities,  resemble  in  countenance  and  person 
the  gipsies,  and  that  their  ancient  language  has  been  a dialect  of 
Hindoostanee.  The  probability  is  indeed  that  Persia,  not  India, 
has  been  the  original  centre  of  this  nomadic  population.  In  that 
case,  however,  it  is  strange  that  we  do  not  hear  of  them  sooner 
in  Europe,  where  they  could  scarcely  have  existed  in  ancient 
times  without  being  noticed  by  classical  writers.  It  is  no  doubt 
true,  indeed,  that  all  the  principal  nations  of  Europe  are  derived 
from  the  same  source  with  them  ; but  still  their  continued  adher- 
ence to  a very  ancient  dialect  of  the  common  language,  and  their 
steady  pursuance  of  nomadic  habits,  must  have  always  distin- 
guished them  from  the  more  settled  and  civilized  branches  of  the 
same  family.  But  the  time  and  occasion  of  their  arrival  in  Eu- 
rope seem  the  chief  problem  in  their  history. 

VoL.  I. — 15 


114 


FLYING  BUGS— ANTS— BIRDS— FISH. 


One  of  the  greatest  plagues  we  have  as  yet  met  with  in  this 
journey  is  that  of  the  winged  hugs.  In  shape,  size,  and  scent, 
with  the  additional  faculty  of  flying,  they  resemble  the  “ grabba- 
tic”  genus,  too  well  known  in  England.  The  night  of  our  lying 
oflf  Barrackpoor  they  were  troublesome ; but  when  we  were  off 
the  Raja’s  palace,  they  came  out  like  the  ghosts  of  his  ances- 
tor’s armies,  in  hundreds  and  thousands  from  every  bush  and 
every  heap  of  ruins,  and  so  filled  our  cabins  as  to  make  them 
barely  endurable.  These  unhappy  animals  crowded  round  our 
candles  in  such  swarms,  some  just  burning  their  feet  and  wings 
on  the  edge  of  the  glass  shade,  and  thus  toppling  over ; others  more 
bold,  flying  right  into  the  crater,  and  meeting  their  deaths  there, 
that  we  really  paid  no  attention  to  what  was  next  day  a ghastly 
spectacle,  the  mighty  army  which  had  settled  on  the  wet  paint  of 
the  ceiling,  and  remained  there,  black  and  stinking,  till  the  ants 
devoured  them.  These  last  swarm  in  my  pinnace  : they  have 
eaten  up  no  inconsiderable  portion  of  my  provisions,  and  have 
taken,  I trust  to  their  benefit,  a whole  box  of  blue  pills ; but  as 
they  do  their  best  to  clear  it  of  all  other  vermin,  I cannot  but 
look  on  them  with  some  degree  of  favour. 

Besides  the  “ mucharunga,”  a kind  of  king-fisher,  which  we 
had  seen  before,  some  other  birds,  whose  appearance  is  new  to 
me,  continue  to  show  themselves.  One  is  a small  black  cormo- 
rant, or  curlew,  which  we  see  standing  with  its  wet  wings  spread  on 
the  sand-banks  and  shallows,  praised  as  excellent  eating ; another 
is  in  colour  and  size  not  unlike  a blackbird,  but  with  a long  tail. 
Abdullah  says,  that  early  in  the  morning  it  “ reads  (meaning  sings) 
very  finely.”  This  equivocal  use  of  the  two  words  I have  noticed 
in  other  Indians,  and  it  probably  arises  from  the  chant  in  which 
both  the  Koran  and  the  religious  books  of  the  Hindoos  are  always 
read. 

The  prospect  of  our  little  fleet  at  anchor,  of  the  fires  made  by 
the  servants  and  boatmen  on  the  shore,  and  of  a little  crowd  of 
villagers  who  came  down,  attracted  by  curiosity,  or  in  the  hope 
of  selling  milk,  was  very  beautiful  this  evening,  and  presented 
the  elements  for  a picture  as  perfectly  Polynesian  as  any  in  Cook’s 
voyages. 

June  20. — About  ten  o’clock,  some  fishermen  brought  a very 
noble  fish  alongside  of  us  for  sale,  of  exactly  the  shape  and  ap- 
pearance of  a chub,  but  weighing  at  least  20  or  25  pounds.  After 
a good  deal  of  haggling  they  sold  it  for  1 2 anas,  (about  eighteen 
pence.)  The  khansaman  proposed  salting  the  greater  part,  but 
1 made  the  servants  very  well  pleased  by  saying  that  I would  only 
have  a little  boiled  for  ourselves,  and  that  the  rest  should  be  di- 
vided among  them  for  their  Sunday  dinner,  an  arrangement  which 
seemed  to  offend  no  religious  prejudices  either  of  Hindoo  or 


fog— SINGING  BOYS. 


115 


Mussulman,  inasmuch  as  the  different  messes  seemed  all  eager  to 
receive  their  portions,  and  in  the  evening  at  our  bivouac  their 
kettles  were  all  supplied  with  it.  The  fish  was  very  good,  ex- 
ceedingly firm  and  white,  like  a jack,  which  it  a good  deal  re- 
sembled, except  that  the  bones  were  larger  and  less  numerous. 
Its  name  is  “ rahoo.”  With  occasionah  supplies  of  this  kind, 
there  is  no  fear  of  our  provisions  falling  short,  except  our  bread, 
which  is  become  mouldy,  and  which  in  this  part  of  the  country 
we  have  no  chance  of  replacing.  Our  boatmen  continued  their 
course  to-day  later  than  usual,  and  it  was  about  seven  o’clock 
when  he  brought  up  near  a large  village,  surrounded  by  marshes 
and  paddy  grounds,  but  with  a good  deal  of  pasture  intermingled. 
Its  name  is  Cadampoor,  as  we  were  told  by  an  old  man,  who  add- 
ed the  gratuitous  information,  that  he  was  himself  the  village 
“ Gaowala,”  or  cowman.  This  he  probably  said  in  hopes  that 
we  might  purchase  some  milk,  but  our  goats  supply  us  abundant- 
ly. They  are  taken  on  shore  whenever  we  stop,  to  graze  on  the 
florin,  which  to  my  surprise  grows  in  large  patches  on  these  sandy 
banks.  On  our  return  from  our  evening’s  stroll,  we  met  the 
Gaowala  with  his  herd,  and  I had  a fresh  opportunity  of  noticing 
(what  had  struck  me  more  than  once  before)  the  falsehood  of 
the  idea,  that  Indian  cattle  are  particularly  wild  or  surly  with 
white  men.  These  animals  in  passing  us  displayed  no  more  shy- 
ness than  a similar  herd  would  have  done  in  England. 

June  21. — Holland  itself  could  not  have  furnished  a thicker 
or  more  stinking  fog  than  hung  over  the  banks  of  the  river  early 
this  morning.  It  cleared  up  towards  seven,  leaving  the  promise 
of  a tremendously  hot  day  without  a breath  of  wind.  Indeed,  for 
these  three  days  we  have  had  by  no  means  the  sort  of  weather  we 
were  told  to  expect,  and  if  we  find  water  enough  for  our  course, 
we  must,  I apprehend,  thank  the  melting  snows  of  the  distant 
Himalaya  for  it,  more  than  any  rain  which  has  yet  fallen  in  Bengal. 
We  had  proof  this  morning  of  the  neighbourhood  of  Europeans  of 
some  description  or  other,  (probably  indigo  planters,)  in  two 
gentlemen,  apparently  in  the  pursuit  of  game,  who  appeared  on 
the  banks,  mounted  on  elephants,  and  followed  by  two  men  with 
long  bamboos,  as  if  to  beat  the  bushes.  Though  they  rode  for 
two  or  three  minutes  near  us,  they  showed  no  disposition  to  have 
any  communication  with  our  party.  I was  at  first  going  to  hail 
them,  and  felt  vexed  at  myself  afterwards  for  the  shyness,  or 
whatever  it  was,  which  made  me  lose  the  opportunity  of  learning 
many  points  respecting  our  present  situation  and  our  future  course, 
on  which  I wished  much  to  be  informed.  A number  of  little  boys 
came  to  the  side  of  the  river,  and  ran  along  by  our  vessel,  which 
the  crew  were  towing  slowly  along,  singing  an  air  extremely  like 
that  of  “ My  love  to  wards  going.”  The  words  were  Bengalee, 


116 


MUSTARD  OIL. 


and  unintelligible  to  me ; but  the  purport,  1 soon  found  out,  hy 
the  frequent  recurrence  of  “ Radha,”  to  be  that  amour  of  Krishna 
with  the  beautiful  dairy  maid,  which  is  here  as  popular  a subject 
with  the  boatmen  and  peasantry,  as  the  corresponding  tale  of 
Apollo  and  Daphne  can  have  been  with  the  youth  of  Greece  and 
Hellenized  Syria.  A few  pice  were  thrown  to  these  young  singers 
by  some  of  my  servants.  Their  mode  of  begging  strongly  recalled 
to  my  mind  something  of  the  same  sort  which  I have  seen  in 
England.  Dear,  dear  England ! there  is  now  less  danger  than 
ever  of  my  forgetting  her,  since  1 now,  in  fact,  first  feel  the  bitter- 
ness of  banishment.  In  my  wife  and  children  I still  carried  with 
me  an  atmosphere  of  home ; but  here  every  thing  reminds  me 
that  I am  a wanderer.  This  custom  of  the  children  singing,  I had 
not  met  with  before,  but  it  seems  common  in  this  part  of  the 
country.  All  the  forenoon,  at  different  villages,  which  are  here 
thickly  scattered,  the  boys  ran  out  to  sing,  not  skilfully,  certainly, 
but  not  unpleasantly.  The  general  tune  was  like  ‘‘  My  boy, 
Billy,”  Radha!  Radha ! forming  the  burden. 

The  increase  of  the  population  is  very  striking  to-day.  It  is 
now  apparently  as  dense  as  in  any  part  of  Bengal  which  I have 
seen;  and  the  crowds  of  villagers  bathing,  washing  linen,  &c., 
the  lowing  of  cattle,  barking  of  dogs,  and  all  other  rural  sounds 
except  the  crowing  of  cocks,  enliven  our  progress  between  the 
high  mud-banks,  which  would  else  be  sufficiently  tiresome.  Dense, 
however,  as  the  population  is,  it  seems  exclusively  Bengalee  and 
agricultural.  Except  the  two  Europeans,  who  might  have  come 
from  a considerable  distance,  we  have  seen  no  symptoms  of  white 
men,  nor  have  we  passed  a single  indigo  manufactory,  since  one  a 
few  miles  on  this  side  of  Ranaghat.  The  barges,  which  are  very 
numerous,  bring  salt  from  Calcutta,  and  carry  back  chiefly  mus- 
tard seed,  which,  in  the  shape  of  oil,  is  one  of  the  most  indispen- 
sable necessaries  in  a'Hindoo  family.  “We  eat  mustard-oil,  (said 
my  sircar  to  me  one  day,  when  lamenting  an  additional  tax  which 
had  been  imposed  upon  this  commodity,)  we  burn  it, — we  rub 
ourselves  with  it, — it  is  quite  as  useful  as  rice.” 

We  have  been  these  last  three  days  in  some  perplexity  about 
our  further  progress.  The  account  given  us  of  the  depth  of  water 
by  the  crew  of  the  large  pulwars  which  we  passed  at  Seebpoor, 
appears  either  to  have  been  exaggerated,  or  to  refer  to  the  largest 
and  most  circuitous  of  three  streams  which  flow  out  of  the  great 
Ganges  into  that  where  we  are  now  gliding.  The  most  direct  of 
these,  by  Catchergatty,  is  said  to  be  generally  at  this  season  tole- 
rably supplied  with  water  for  a vessel  of  our  small  draught.  But 
the  rain  has  been  for  these  three  days  suspended,  or  nearly  so. 
We  have  the  ill  luck  to  observe,  by  the  mark  on  the  bank,  that 
the  river  has  actually  been  a few  inches  higher  than  it  is  now ; 


INDIGO  WORKS. 


117 


and  the  different  boats  which  meet  us  hold  very  different  language 
as  to  the  probability  of  our  reaching  Dacca  by  that  course.  The 
second,  or  next  straightest  channel,  is  notoriously  shallower  than 
the  Catchergatty,  so  that  there  only  remains  the  third,  which  is 
nearly  by  three  days  more  tedious : we  are,  however,  likely  to 
obtain  some  more  certain  accounts  to-night.  The  two  cavaliers, 
or  elephanteers,  whom  we  passed  in  the  morning,  and  whom  I 
regretted  the  not  having  spoken  with,  it  seems  hailed  the  cook- 
boat  after  we  were  gone  by,  and  most  civilly  and  modestly,  without 
introducing  themselves,  wrote  a note,  which  they  committed  to 
my  peon,  to  the  native  daroga  of  Catchergatty,  ordering  him  to 
give  me  all  the  assistance  and  information  in  his  power,  and  to 
convey  any  letters  for  me,  either  to  Calcutta  or  Dacca. 

We  this  afternoon  passed  a very  large  tortoise,  considerably 
above  afoot,  I should  think,  in  length,  basking  on  one  of  the 
sand-banks. 

We  moored  at  about  half  past  six,  after  a very  hot  day,  and  a 
fatiguing  one  for  the  poor  men,  at  a place  called  Bunybunya,  a 
desolate,  sandy  spot,  but  which  promised  good  air.  On  landing, 
we  found  that  beyond  the  immediate  vicinity  of  our  birth,  the 
country  was  really  pretty.  A considerable  indigo  work,  with  an  ' 
European  bungalow,  was  at  a little  distance,  the  owner  of  which 
was  gone  to  Kishnagur,  but  which  afforded  us  an  amusing  and 
instructive  occupation  in  walking  round  the  works,  and  seeing 
the  manner  in  which  indigo  is  made,  by  maceration  in  water  in 
a succession  of  brick  cisterns,  and  at  last,  by  kiln-drying,  to  evapo- 
rate the  moisture  from  the  dye.  The  daroga,  for  whom  we  had 
the  letter,  was  gone,  we  found,  to  a neighbouring  village,  to  hold 
an  inquest  over  a man  who  had  been  found  dead  in  a well. 

June  22. — After  unmooring  again,  we  were  disappointed  to 
learn  that  we  had  passed  the  nearest  way  to  Dacca.  There  were 
still,  however,  two  rivers  opening  before  us,  and  that  which  lay 
to  our  right,  we  were  told,  was  nearer  than  the  other  by  some 
days:  the.  Serang  went  off  in  his  jolly-boat  to  obtain  intelligence 
from  a little  village.  He  brought  back  word  that  there  was  water 
enough,  but  that  there  were  some  bad  and  narrow  places,  where 
we  should  have  some  difficulty  in  getting  the  pinnace  along.  I 
could  not  conjecture  what  sort  of  narrow  places  we  could  have 
to  apprehend,  inasmuch  as  the  river  was  here  almost  a quarter  of 
a mile  broad,  and  rocks,  I knew,  were  things  unheard  of  in  Bengal. 
But  whatever  were  the  hinderance,  I determined  on  proceeding 
this  way,  since  the  rapid  rise  of  the  river,  which  might  now  inevi- 
tably be  reckoned  on,  would  clear  away  every  thing  of  the  sort, 
most  probably  in  a less  time  than  would  be  lost  by  taking  a cir- 
cuitous route,  even  if  (which  we  could  not  be  sure  of)  that  route 
also  should  not  produce  its  impediments.  We  therefore  turned 


118 


FAKIRS. 


into  this  branch,  which  tended  directly  south-east,  and  where  we 
found  the  wind  indeed  against  us,  but  a strong,  whirly,  dimpling 
stream,  urging  us  merrily  forwards.  In  both  these  respects  we 
had  previously  experienced  the  contrary ; so  that  we  found  that 
to  this  point  we  had  been  ascending  one  branch  of  the  Matabunga, 
flowing  westward  towards  the  Hooghly,  but  that  the  present  was 
another,  which  reverted  by  a southerly  course,  and  with  greater 
rapidity,  to  the  mighty  Ganges,  from  which  it  at  first  had  issued. 
Our  sails  were  now  useless,  but  so  fine  a stream  promised  our 
boatmen  easy  work  with  the  tow-line.  If,  however,  the  poor 
fellows  formed  any  such  expectation,  they  were  soon  undeceived. 
They  had,  indeed,  no  occasion  to  urge  the  boat  forwards:  stern- 
foremost,  or  broadside-foremost,  or  whirling  round  and  round  like 
a reel,  she  was  hurried  on  with  more  than  sufficient  rapidity.  But 
they  had  continually  to  bring  her  up  short  by  main  strength,  or  to 
jump  into  the  water,  and  with  long  bamboos,  or  with  their  arms 
and  shoulders,  to  stave  her  off,  or  push  her  over,  different  obsta- 
cles. This  is  not  a peaceable  stream  like  the  one  we  had  quitted, 
but  hurries  with  it  trees  and  bushes,  as  well  as  throwing  up  nu- 
merous sand  banks,  between  which  our  course  was  indeed  very 
often  narrow  and  perplexing,  though  in  the  bed  of  the  river  there 
was  always  a considerable  depth  of  water,  a circumstance  which, 
obliging  our  boatmen  to  swim  every  ten  or  twenty  yards,  materi- 
ally increased  their  labours.  At  the  more  difficult  of  these  places 
we  generally  found  a Mussulman  fakir  or  two  established,  who 
came,  or  sometimes  swam,  to  beg  alms,  pleading  the  efficacy  of 
their  prayers  in  getting  us  past  the  dangers,  and  supplying  at  the 
same  time,  in  many  instances,  some  useful  hints  as  to  the  best  course 
for  our  vessel ; a service  cheaply  rewarded  by  a few  pice,  which 
indeed  few  would  grudge,  who  are  aware  how  often  this  is  the  sole 
resource  of  unfortunate  boatmen,  victims  to  disease  or  premature 
old  age,  brought  on  by  the  severity  of  their  labours.  Our  own  men, 
though  all  in  the  prime  of  youth,  well  fed,  and  with  figures  such  as  a 
statuary  might  delight  to  model  after,  themselves  show  too  many 
symptoms  of  the  ill  effects  occasioned  by  their  constant  vicissitudes 
of  water,  sun,  and  toil.  The  backs  and  skins  of  many  of  them  were 
scaly,  as  if  with  leprosy,  and  they  spoke  of  this  complaint  as  a fre- 
quent consequence  of  their  way  of  life ; though  this  particular  erup- 
tion, they  said,  always  left  them  if  they  remained  any  time  at  home, 
and  re-appeared  on  their  return  to  their  aquatic  labours.  The 
same  thing  I have  heard  of  among  the  boatmen  of  Madras,  where 
it  is,  ignorantly  enough,  mistaken  for  a saline  incrustation  from 
the  sea-water.  Here  the  water  is  fresh,  yet  the  same  spectacle  is 
presented,  and  must  therefore,  I suppose,  be  attributed  to  cheeked 
perspiration. 

After  advancing  six  or  eight  miles  in  this  manner,  sometimes 


FISHINa. 


119 


hanging  on  the  sunken  trees,  sometimes  scraping  against  sand- 
banks, but  still  trundling  on  at  a rate  faster  than  might  have  been 
expected,  we  arrived  in  a broad  deep  pool,  with  unusually  still 
water,  on  seeing  which  the  Serang  immediately  brought  to,  and 
leapt  on  shore,  exclaiming  that  we  w^ere  near  one  of  the  difficult 
places.  It  was  now  about  four  o’clock,  and  the  day  pleasantly 
cool  and  cloudy,  so  that  Stowe  and  I followed  his  example,  in 
the  hope  of  seeing  what  was  the  obstacle.  We  found,  about  100 
yards  farther,  a regular  dam  of  earth,  sand,  and  clay,  thrown  up 
across  the  river,  (a  quarter  of  a mile  wide,)  by  the  force  of  this 
restless  stream,  which  now  struggled  on  through  the  impediments 
which  it  had  itself  raised,  with  great  violence  and  impetuosity, 
through  two  narrow  and  irregular  channels,  with  a considerable 
fall,  into  a lower  and  troubled,  but  still  deep  basin,  some  three 
feet  below.  No  vessel  larger  than  a jolly-boat  could  pass  these 
channels  in  their  present  condition,  and  the  question  was  whether 
we  were  to  return  up  the  rapid  stream  which  we  had  descended, 
or  get  labourers  to  widen  the  most  promising,  though  the  narrow- 
est, of  these  sluices.  This  was  a question,  however,  very  easily 
decided.  The  bank  was  evidently  nothing  but  earth  easily 
worked,  and  of  which  the  rubbish  would  be  as  easily  washed  away 
by  the  stream,  and  I therefore  sent  Abdullah  to  Matabunga,  the 
nearest  village,  with  directions  to  find  the  daroga  first,  or  if  he 
were  not  forthcoming,  to  hire  work-people  without  delay.  In 
the  mean  time,  I sat  down  to  make  a drawing  of  the  scene  before 
me,  and  to  enjoy  the  delightful  sound  and  coolness  of  the  rushing 
water,  as  well  as  to  observe  the  success  of  a crowd  of  people, 
men,  women,  and  children,  who  covered  every  part  of  the  bank, 
catching  fish  with  long  spears,  scoop  and  casting  nets.  In  the 
use  of  these  instruments  they  were  very  dexterous.  I never  in 
my  life  saw  a net  so  thrown,  either  for  the  extent  of  water  cover- 
ed, the  precision  of  aim,  or  the  apparent  absence  of  effort,  as  by 
one  young  man,  a very  little  fellow  too,  who  stood  near  us.  To 
these  people  we  had  in  the  first  place  applied  to  help  us,  but  they 
excused  themselves,  saying  they  had  no  tools.  They  were  indeed 
already  very  fully  and  profitably  employed,  since  the  water  was 
teeming  with  fish  of  all  sizes,  and  the  young  man  whom  I have 
mentioned  told  us  that,  at  this  time  of  year,  nobody  eat  any  thing 
but  fish,  and  that  every  body  might  have  it.  He  said  that  a few 
days  ago  there  had  been  no  passage  here  at  all,  for  the  river  had 
been  standing  in  tanks  all  the  way  to  “ Burra  Gunga,”  but  that 
now  the  rains  had  once  forced  their  way,  they  would  soon  widen 
the  channel,  and  that  some  large  vessels  which  he  pointed  out  to 
us  above  and  below  the  fall,  had  been  waiting  several  days  for 
this  to  happen,  but  that  now  they  would  get  through  at  our 
expense.  “ Ucha  oon  ke  waste.”  “ Good  for  them,”  he  added. 


120 


BRAHMINY  BULLS. 


At  length  Abdullah  returned.  No  daroga,  however,  lived  nearer 
than  the  one  we  had  left  behind  the  day  before,  and  the  villagers 
refused  to  come  on  the  plea  that  it  was  a Hindoo  holiday.  This 
objection  he  in  part  removed,  by  assuring  them  of  good  pay. 
One  old  man,  indeed,  urged  that  the  Brahmins  would  curse  them, 
but  Abdullah  gravely  rejoined,  “ the  curse  be  on  me  and  mine,” 
and  eight  men,  being  pretty  nearly  the  whole  effective  force  of 
the  hamlet,  came  off  with  him.  Seven  of  these  were  equipped 
with  very  large  and  heavy  hoes,  (which  are  here  universally  used 
instead  of  the  spade,  and  in  a soil  where  there  are  no  stones  are 
certainly  very  serviceable  tools.)  The  eighth  had  only  his  stick, 
but  was,  according  to  the  strange  usage  of  Bengal,  where  nobody 
can  do  any  thing  without  a leader,  the  “ sirdar,”  or  master  of  the 
gang,  without  whom  they  would  not  work,  and  whom  they  allow- 
ed (voluntarily,  since  there  is  nothing  but  custom  which  makes 
them  do  so)  to  receive  their  wages,  and  draw  poundage  on  them 
in  consideration  of  his  superintendence.  This  number  fell  short 
of  my  wishes  and  expectations.  They  were,  however,  as  good, 
dexterous,  and  diligent  labourers  as  I ever  saw.  They  got  on  at 
a great  rate  in  the  loose  soil,  and  we  had  soon  the  pleasure  to  see 
that  the  stream  worked  almost  as  fast  as  they  did.  In  fact,  be- 
tween five  o’clock  and  nine,  they  had  enlarged  the  channel  so 
much  as  to  make  it  almost  certain  that  the  stream  in  the  night 
would  do  all  which  yet  was  necessary.  I gave  the  men  three 
anas  each,  including  the  sirdar.  They  were  exceedingly  grateful, 
and  it  was,  indeed,  1 well  knew,  more  than  they  expected.  But 
they  had  worked  very  hard  and  willingly,  at  an  hour  when  few 
Hindoos  can  be  prevailed  on  to  touch  a tool,  and  the  latter  part 
of  the  time  up  to  their  knees  or  middles  in  water.  I bid  them, 
however,  come  again  in  the  morning  at  four  o’clock,  lest  they 
should  be  wanted.  The  country  round  these  rapids,  (if  they 
deserve  the  name,)  is  really  pretty,  open,  and  cultivated,  but 
interspersed  with  groves,  and  displaying  as  much  variety  as  Ben- 
gal is  susceptible  of.  W e saw  several  tortoises  swimming  near 
the  bar.  On  the  bank  we  found  a dwarf  mulberry  tree,  the  first 
we  have  seen  in  India.  A very  handsome  and  sleek  young  bull, 
branded  with  the  emblem  of  Siva  on  his  haunches,  was  grazing  in 
the  green  Paddy.  He  crossed  our  path  quite  tame  and  fearless, 
and  seeing  some  florin  grass  in  Stowe’s  hand,  coolly  walked  up  to 
smell  at  it.  These  bulls  are  turned  out  when  calves,  on  different 
solemn  occasions,  by  wealthy  Hindoos,  as  an  acceptable  offering 
to  Siva.  It  would  be  a mortal  sin  to  strike  or  injure  them.  They 
feed  where  they  choose,  and  devout  persons  take  great  delight  in 
pampering  them.  They  are  exceeding  pests  in  the  villages  near 
Calcutta,  breaking  into  gardens,  thrusting  their  noses  into  the  stalls 
of  fruiterers  and  pastry  cooks’  shops,  and  helping  themselves 


PEASANTRY. 


121 


without  ceremony.  Like  other  petted  animals,  they  are  some- 
times  mischievous,  and  are  said  to  resent  with  a push  of  tlieir 
horns  any  delay  in  gratifying  their  wishes. 

June  23. — We  were  up  this  morning  early  to  see  the  channel 
which  had  been  made,  and  our  Serang’s  preparations  for  passing 
it.  The  former  was  sufficiently  wide,  but  the  stream  rushed 
through  it  with  a fall  at  least  equal  to  that  at  London  Bridge. 
The  latter  were  extremely  simple.  The  boatmen  confided  to 
their  strength  of  arm,  and  long  bamboos,  which,  with  the  real 
lightness  of  the  vessel,  carried  her  through  triumphantly,  preceded 
by  our  cooking  and  baggage  boats.  The  only  precaution  which 
the  Serang  thought  necessary,  was  to  fasten  a long  rope  from  the 
head  of  his  vessel  to  a stake  on  the  little  island  between  the  falls, 
which  brought  her  up  after  passing  the  strait,  in  the  deep  and 
agitated  basin  beneath  it. 

From  hence  we  proceeded,  during  the  day,  along  a deeper 
and  more  navigable  stream,  though  still  frequently  perplexed  by 
islets  and  bars.  We  saw  several  of  the  tortoises,  which  I men- 
tioned, svv^imming  round  us,  and  the  shells  of  many  more  on  the 
sand-banks.  The  country  was  extremely  pretty,  the  high  banks 
being  fringed  almost  down  to  the  water’s  edge  with  bamboos, 
long  grass,  and  creepers,  and  the  shore  above  covered  with  noble 
banians,  palms,  and  peepuls,  with  very  neat  villages  under  their 
shade,  while  the  figures  of  the  women  in  coarse  hut  white  cotton 
mantles,  walking  under  the  trees,  and  coming,  with  their  large 
earthen  jars  on  their  heads,  to  draw  water,  gave  a liveliness  to 
the  picture  which  was  very  interesting.  Several  indigo  works 
were  on  the  river  side,  and  I thought  the  appearance  of  the  boats, 
the  houses,  and  the  peasantry,  all  improved  as  we  approached 
the  Burra  Gunga.  We  had  a storm  of  thunder  and  heavy  light- 
ning to-day  about  noon.  The  Serang  made  fast  on  the  lee  of  a 
small  sandy  point.  There  was  no  real  occasion  for  his  doing  so, 
but  he  pleaded  that  if  it  came  on  to  blow  hard,  he  could  not 
manage  his  vessel  in  a river  of  so  rapid  a stream,  and  the  depth 
and  direction  of  whose  channel  were  so  uncertain.  This  indeed 
was  one  of  the  points  on  which  I had  been  cautioned,  that  I 
should  never  force  a Serang  to  proceed  when  he  was  anxious  to 
“ lugana”  (make  fast).  These  people,  when  engaged  by  the  trip, 
have  no  interest  in  needless  delays,  and  though  they  may  some- 
times be  over-cautious,  they  always  know  their  own  rivers,  and 
the  state  of  the  weather,  better  than  we  can  do.  Most,  if  not  all 
the  accidents  which  occur  to  Europeans  on  the  Ganges,  arise 
from  their  making  their  crew  proceed  against  their  wishes  and 
judgment.  We  made  a tolerable  progress  this  day,  and  brought 
to  for  the  night  under  a high  steep  bank,  with  some  fine  old 
banians,  and  a small  village  overhung  by  beautiful  flowering  trees 

VoL.  I. — 1G 


122 


TITYBANIA. 


and  tamarinds ; beyond  was  a large  circular  space  enclosed  by 
a mud  wall,  which  appeared  to  be  the  ruins  of  a manufactory  of 
coarse  ea,rthenware.  The  peasants  were  civil  and  communica- 
tive,  and  we  should  have  been  well  pleased  to  make  further 
inquiries,  but  a storm  of  rain  drove  us  to  our  cabins  again.  We 
here  had  an  opportunity  of  judging  of  the  height  to  which  the 
annual  inundation  rises.  The  river  bank  rose  at  least  25  feet 
higher  than  the  present  surface  of  the  water,  yet,  at  this  village, 
they  were  throwing  up  mud  banks  for  causeways,  and  making 
other  provision  for  communication  and  security,  to  the  height  of 
three  or  four  feet  more ; and  all  the  table-land  which  the  bank 
supported,  was  planted  with  paddy,  and  obviously  prepared  for 
the  reception  of  water. 

The  jackalls  were  very  noisy  this  night,  and  there  was  another 
noise  in  my  cabin  so  exactly  like  the  bubbling  up  of  water 
through  a narrow  crevice,  that  I felt  convinced  that  our  vessel 
leaked,  a circumstance  which  would  not  have  been  wonderful, 
considering  how  she  had  been  bumped  about  during  the  two  last 
days.  On  inquiry,  however,  1 was  told  that  it  was  a sort  of 
cricket,  or  Indian  death-watch,  which  always  emitted  this  sound. 
This  was  the  first  time  I had  heard  it. 

June  24. — We  this  day  made  a better  progress,  the  river  being 
deeper  and  wider,  while  the  stream  continued  almost  equally 
powerful.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  place  where  we  halted 
for  the  night,  which  was  chiefly  cultivated  with  rice,  with  some 
patches  of  sunn  hemp,  were  two  villages,  to  one  of  which  we 
walked,  and  found  it  large,  populous,  and  beautifully  embosomed 
in  trees,  some  of  them  of  a kind  which  I had  not  before  met  with. 
A large  tree  bearing  a small  and  not  ill-tasted  fig,  attracted  my 
attention  from  the  strange  manner  in  which  its  fruit  grew, 
attached  to  the  bark  both  of  boughs  and  stems,  like  a gall-nut, 
oak-apple,  or  similar  excrescence.  Its  name  is  Goolun.  We  met, 
during  our  walk  through  the  village,  the  brahmin  of  the  place,  a 
young  and  intelligent  man,  who  very  civilly  not  only  answered 
our  questions,  but  turned  back  to  accompany  us  in  our  walk. 
He  said  the  name  of  the  village  was  Titybania,  that  it,  with  a 
property  round  it,  amounting  to  a rental  of  14,000  rupees  a year, 
belonged  to  a Hindoo  family,  whose  name  1 forget,  and  who  were 
now  engaged  in  a law-suit.  That  a muktar  was  named  to  receive 
the  rents,  and  that,  as  he  shrewdly  observed,  “ The  Company 
get  their  taxes,  the  poor  people  their  receipts  as  usual,  and  all 
things  go  on  as  before,  except  the  two  brothers,  who  are  rightly 
served  for  quarrelling.”  I asked  if  indigo  was  cultivated ; he 
said  no,  and  that  probably  the  soil  might  be  too  clayey  for  it ; 
but  added,  “ The  indigo  is  a fine  thing  to  put  money  into  the 
purse  of  the  baboo,  but  we  poor  people  do  not  want  to  see  it. 


NATIVES—BOATS. 


123 


It  raises  the  price  of  rice,  and  the  rent  of  land.”  The  rent  of 
indigo-ground,  he  said,  was  above  twelve  anas  the  hegah  (five 
shillings  an  acre).  That  of  rice-ground  five  (about  two  shillings 
the  acre).  This  is  far  less  than  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Calcutta, 
but  the  place  is  certainly  very  sequestered.  No  tigers,  he  said, 
are  ever  seen  here.  We  passed  by  some  Mussulman  cottages, 
distinguished  by  the  poultry  which  were  seen  round  them,  and  a 
very  small,  but  new  and  neat  Hindoo  cottage,  before  whose  door 
its  owners  were  busy  preparing  a small  garden,  an  unusual  sight 
in  India,  and  at  a short  distance  from  which  a young  banian  tree 
was  planted  on  a hillock  of  turf,  carefully  surrounded  with  thorns, 
woven  into  a sort  of  dead-hedge,  with  much  care  and  neatness. 
I pointed  out  this  last  to  the  brahmin,  who  merely  said  it  would  be 
a great  tree  in  time,  and  very  beautiful  in  that  part  of  the  village. 
A handsome  young  woman,  adorned  with  unusual  gaiety  of  silver 
anklets,  &c.  went  into  the  house,  and  the  owner  himself  was  a 
young  man,  so  that  probably  the  banian  was  a votive  offering  on 
occasion  of  their  marriage,  or  the  birth  of  their  first  child.  At  a 
small  distance,  and  on  the  brink  of  the  river,  was  a little  wretched 
hut  of  straw  and  reeds,  removed  from  all  other  dwellings,  with  a 
long  bamboo  and  a small  ragged  flag,  stuck  into  the  ground,  on 
each  side  of  its  front.  It  was,  the  brahmin  said,  the  tomb  of  a 
Mussulman  holy  man.  While  we  were  passing  on,  several  other 
villagers  collected  round  us.  Some  of  them  seemed  greatly 
amused  with  our  unusual  figures  and  complexion,  and  our  imper- 
fect Hindoostanee,  but  there  was  not  the  least  expression  of  shy- 
ness, nor  any  real  incivility.  Abdullah  said  it  was  quite  amazing 
to  see  how  familiar  the  common  people  had  become  with  English- 
men during  the  last  twenty  years.  He  remembered  the  time 
when  all  black  people  ran  away  from  a white  face,  and  the 
appearance  of  a single  European  soldier  struck  consternation 
into  a village.  “ They  used  to  them  now,”  he  said,  “ they  know 
they  no  harm  do.”  The  country  people  in  this  neighbourhood 
seem  contented  and  thriving,  for  them,  though  of  course  their 
most  flourishing  condition  would  be  reckoned  deep  poverty  in 
England.  The  boats  on  this  river  are  much  neater  than  those 
on  the  Hooghly.  Their  straw  tilts  are  better  made,  their  sterns 
not  so  unreasonably  high,  their  sails  less  flimsy,  nay,  many  of 
them  are  painted,  and  have  copper  or  gilded  eyes  fixed  into  their 
bows  and  on  each  side  of  the  helm.^  We  had  two  beggars  by 
the  boat,  the  one  an  old  man  with  a white  beard,  blind,  and  led 
by  two  boys,  who  were,  he  said,  his  children.  1 asked  how  old 

* These  are  not  merely  ornamental.  Dr.  Abel,  when  he  accompanied  Lord 
Amherst  on  his  embassy  to  China,  observed  the  same  thing,  and  the  Chinese 
justified  it  by  saying,  “ No  can  see,  No  can  savey.” — En. 


124 


INDIAN  DOGS. 


he  was,  but  he  did  not  seem  to  understand  my  question,  merely 
answering  that  he  had  been  blind  forty  years,  and  had  lost  his 
eyes  soon  after  he  married.  There  are  surprisingly  few  beggars 
in  Bengal.  Of  those  whom  I have  seen,  the  greater  part  have 
superadded  some  religious  character  to  their  natural  claims  on 
our  pity.  This  old  man,  however,  had  nothing  of  the  sort,  and 
merely  asked  alms  as  a helpless  and  unhappy  being.  1 was 
heartily  glad  that  I had  come  out  provided.  The  other  beggar 
was  a Pariah  dog,  who  sneaked  down  in  much  bodily  fear  to  our 
bivouac,  and  was  exceedingly  delighted  by  a few  pieces  of 
mouldy  toast  which  we  threw  him.  He  was  like  a large  terrier, 
and  would  have  been  handsome  had  he  been  in  better  plight, 
and  had  he  had  any  thing  like  the  confidence  and  alacrity  of  his 
species  in  England.  I have  been  often  struck,  and  more  than 
ever  in  these  remote  districts,  by  the  variety  of  colours  and 
breeds  which  Indian  dogs  display,  and  their  similarity  to  many  in 
Europe.  Terriers  and  hounds,  or  something  very  like  them,  are, 
however,  the  most  usual.  Are  they  indigenous,  or  is  it  possible 
that  their  stock  can  have  been  derived  from  us  ? I should  think 
not,  considering  the  recent  date  of  our  establishment  in  the 
country,  and  the  extreme  smallness  of  our  numbers  any  where 
but  at  Calcutta. 

I forgot  to  notice  that  this  morning,  about  eight  o’clock,  we 
experienced  one  of  those  accidents  which  are  not  infrequent  in 
Indian  rivers,  and  in  small  or  ill-built  vessels  perilous.  We  were 
skirting  pretty  near  the  base  of  a high  crumbling  bank,  whose  top 
was  at  least  thirty  feet  above  us,  when  the  agitation  of  the  water 
caused  by  our  oars,  and  the  motion  of  the  vessel,  dislodged  some 
of  the  sandy  brink,  and  immediately  a large  body  of  sand  and 
loose  earth,  weighing  perhaps  several  hundred  weight,  slipped 
down  in  a formidable  avalanche  into  the  water,  half  filled  our 
cabin,  and  wetted  me  to  the  skin  with  the  splash  it  raised,  and 
though  it  would  hardly  have  sunk  us  had  it  fallen  on  our  deck, 
would  doubtless  have  swamped  the  greater  part  of  the  boats  we 
see  around  us. 

June  25. — The  river  this  day  rapidly  increased  in  size,  and  be- 
came very  beautiful  and  interesting.  The  banks  are  still  high 
and  precipitous,  but  the  vegetation  which  overhangs  them  is 
splendid,  and  some  of  the  villages  would  be  reckoned  neat  even 
in  Europe.  Several  considerable  indigo  works  also  appeared  on 
the  banks  ; but  the  bungalows  attached  to  them  did  not  seem  to 
be  occupied  by  Europeans.  We  ascertained  to-day  that  the  tor- 
toise of  these  waters  is  no  contemptible  eating,  having  some  good 
turtle-soup  at  dinner.  There  was  not,  indeed,  much  green  fat, 
but  what  there  was  was  extremely  sweet  and  good,  without  the 
least  fishy  taste,  and  the  lean  very  juicy,  well-flavoured  meat,  not 


FISHING  BOATS. 


125 


unlike  veal.  We  want,  in  fact,  no  comfort  or  luxury  but  bread, 
having  had  none  eatable  for  many  days  back. 

We  stopped  for  the  night  at  a beautiful  village  with  splendid 
banian  and  peepul  trees,  and  surrounded  by  natural  meadows  and 
hedge-rows,  so  like  English,  that,  but  for  the  cocos,  we  could  have 
supposed  ourselves  there.  The  hedge-rows  were  of  young  toon 
trees,  which,  to  my  surprise,  I found  so  like  ash,  as  easily  to  be 
mistaken  for  it.  Even  the  wood,  when  fresh  felled,  resembles  ash, 
more  than  the  dark  colour  which  it  bears  when  wrought  into  fur- 
niture in  Calcutta.  It  differs,  however,  from  ash,  in  being  ex- 
tremely heavy.  The  inner  rind,  which  is  white  and  glutinous, 
tastes  like  liquorice. 

We  passed  through  a large  paddy  field,  which  the  villagers 
were  diligently  weeding,  and  which  they  had  already  got  extremely 
clean.  Part  of  it  had  evidently  been  eaten  down  by  sheep  or  cat- 
tle, a practice  apparently  common  in  India.  The  path  which  we 
followed  led  us  at  length  close  to  an  indigo  work,  with  a small 
but  very  pretty  bungalow,  which  on  inquiry  we  found  was^occu- 
pied  by  Mr.  John  Davies,  belonging  to  the  firm  of  Palmer  & Co. 

I meant  at  first  to  call,  but  found,  on  entering  the  compound,  that 
neither  master  nor  mistress  was  at  home,  though  there  was  a fine 
and  numerous  family  of  white  children,  and  the  usual  swarm  of 
black  bonnes,  &c.  1 thought  of  leaving  my  name,  but  did  not 

like  to  give  a man  the  trouble,  on  his  return  home,  of  coming  late 
in  the  evening  a considerable  distance  to  the  pinnace,  which  1 
knew  would  be  the  consequence  of  my  doing  so. 

June  26. — Soon  after  day-light  this  morning  we  passed  an  empty 
pinnace,  (empty  at  least  of  all  but  its  crew,)  proceeding  from 
Dacca  to  Calcutta.  From  the  Serang,  whom  I hailed  in  passing, 
1 had  the  disappointment  of  hearing  that  we  were  still  three  days 
from  the  Burra  Gunga,  and  eight  from  Dacca.  It  was,  however, 
a satisfaction  to  find  that  there  was  sufficient  water,  and  that  (of 
which  we  had  lately  begun  to  entertain  some  suspicions)  our 
Serang  really  was  in  the  right  course. 

About  nine  we  passed  a handsome  upper-roomed  house,  with 
large  verandahs,  the  property  also,  as  the  workmen  near  it  told 
us,  of  Palmer  and  Co.,  but  occupied  by  a Frenchman,  one  of 
their  agents  in  the  indigo  trade.  An  old  gentleman  with  powdered 
hair,  and  sundry  other  whites,  male  and  female,  came  out,  but 
disappeared  again  before  we  could  hail  them.  I sent,  however, 
one  of  my  silver-sticks,  with  my  compliments  to  the  gentleman  of 
the  house,  requesting  him  to  send  us  some  leaven  to  make  bread 
with  ; and  with  the  further  request,  that,  if  not  inconvenient,  he 
would  favour  us  with  a loaf.  The  answer  came  back,  to  my  sur- 
prise, that  they  had  no  leaven  in  the  house,  and  no  bread  ! A 


m 


ME  MATTACOLLY. 


singular  answer  to  receive  from  a domiciliated  European  in  decent 
circumstances,  and  most  of  all  from  a Frenchman  ! 

The  river  still  continued  to  increase  in  size,  and  was  now  very 
little  narrower  than  some  parts  of  the  Hooghly,  the  banks  of  less 
beauty  than  we  have  lately  seen  them.  Our  course  for  these  last 
two  days  has  been  generally  S.  E.  by  E.,  the  wind  strongly  against 
us,  but  the  current  as  decidedly  in  our  favour.  The  fishing-boats 
here  have  very  few  of  them  oars ; they  are  moved  by  small  pad- 
dles, with  great  swiftness  and  dexterity.  We  have  had  the  mor- 
tification of  seeing  that  they  are  unwilling  to  come  near  us,  being, 
I apprehend,  afraid  that  our  dandees  will  seize  their  fish  without 
payment.  Three  of  our  men  took  to  the  jolly-boat  just  now, 
to  speak  one  of  their  canoes,  when  the  poor  men  on  board  it,  as 
well  as  two  or  three  other  skiffs  in  the  neighbourhood,  paddled 
off  with  all  speed,  and  soon  distanced  their  pursuers.  This  does 
not  tell  well  for  the  general  character  of  dandees  in  India,  and 
indeed  it  is  easy  to  see  that  though  our  crew  dare  not  plunder  the 
country  in  our  presence,  their  morality  is  pretty  much  like  that 
of  an  English  bargeman, — an  animal  by  no  means  scrupulous  with 
regard  to  his  neighbour’s  property.  About  four  o’clock  we  turned 
short  to  the  left,  leaving  the  Mohanna  river  with  its  broad  stream 
flowing  southwards  to  the  Sunderbunds,  and  ascending  a nar- 
rower and  very  rapid  current  nearly  due  north.  This  our  Serang 
called  the  Mattacolly,  and  he  still  holds  out  to  us  the  prospect  of 
reaching  the  Burra  Gunga  to-morrow.  A large  herd  of  cattle, 
apparently  intended  for  the  Calcutta  market,  passed  us ; they 
were  swimming  across  the  river,  a task  which  they  performed 
very  dexterously.  They  were  not  fat,  hut  in  other  respects  fine 
and  well-grown  animals.  Their  white  heads  and  horns  had  a 
very  singular  appearance,  all  or  nearly  all  the  rest  of  their  bodies 
being  under  water.  We  passed  one  other  indigo  work  to-day, 
and  that  was  ruined,  the  bank  of  the  river  having  given  way  with 
the  house,  which  consequently  now  showed  us  an  architectural 
section  of  its  inside.  We  saw  an  ingenious  water-pump,  worked 
by  twelve  men,  and  intended,  as  I conceive,  to  irrigate  a piece 
of  cane-ground.  We  halted  for  the  night  at  seven,  by  the  side  of 
a low  sand-bank,  with  a vast  extent  of  open  and  marshy  country 
round  us  ; the  river  with  its  banks  of  mud,  the  flat  prospect  round, 
and  its  own  width,  a good  deal  reminded  me  of  the  Dee  below 
Chester,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  King’s  ferry. 

June  27. — The  river  expanded  in  about  four  miles  into  a noble 
piece  of  water,  I should  think  little  less  than  a mile  across,  but 
still  running  with  increasing  rather  than  diminishing  rapidity.  The 
whole  lake  literally  swarmed  with  small  fishing  boats,  and  we 
passed  some  larger  vessels  loaded  with  jars  of  salt.  The  fishery, 
we  were  told  by  these  people,  was  of  the  “ Hilsa”  or  “ Sable  Fish,” 


THE  COMMERCOLLY. 


127 


and  the  salt  was  for  preserving  them.  To  the  north-west,  about 
a mile  further,  we  saw  the  mouth  of  another  broad  stream,  which 
the  Serang  said  was  the  Commercolly  ; colly  and  nuddee  seem  in 
this  part  of  Bengal  synonymous.  The  correctness  of  this  name 
was  confirmed  by  some  people  on  shore,  who  told  us  that  in  about 
four  hours  more  we  should  be  opposite  the  town  of  Boonshah,  one 
of  the  few  names  on  Rennell’s  map  of  which  we  have  been  able 
to  learn  any  tidings.  Every  body  laughed  at  the  idea  of  our 
reaching  the  Gunga  to-day,  indeed  with  such  a current  as  we  are 
now  contending  against,  we  can  hardly  hope  to  advance  a mile  an 
hour.  The  northern  bank  of  this  new  river  was  flat  and  grassy, 
the  southern  very  high,  precipitous,  and  displaying  many  recent 
marks  of  the  havoc  made  by  the  current,  which  must,  I should 
apprehend,  be  at  this  moment  swollen  unusually  by  some  violent 
storm  higher  up.  Instead  of  a gradual  rise,  every  thing  resem- 
bles the  circumstances  of  a sudden  torrent.  Trees,  sods,  bushes, 
earthenware,  all  sorts  of  stray  rubbish  float  past  us,  the  river  is 
covered  with  foam,  and  floats  rippling  and  whirling  past.  The 
poor  men  worked  like  horses  at  the  towing  line,  but  could  hardly 
make  head  against  it.  This  precipitous  bank,  however,  is  very 
woody,  picturesque,  and  populous,  and  the  fishing-boats  mooring 
under  it  in  great  numbers,  give  a pleasing  air  of  life  to  the  scene. 

We  passed  to  my  surprise  a row  of  no  less  than  nine  or  ten 
large  and  very  beautiful  otters,  tethered  with  straw  collars  and 
long  strings  to  Bamboo  stakes  on  the  bank.  Some  were  swim- 
ming about  at  the  full  extent  of  their  strings,  or  lying  half  in  and 
half  out  of  the  water,  others  were  rolling  themselves  in  the  sun 
on  the  sandy  bank,  uttering  a shrill  whistling  noise  as  if  in  play. 
I was  told  that  most  of  the  fishermen  in  this  neighbourhood  kept 
one  or  more  of  these  animals,  who  were  almost  as  tame  as  dogs, 
and  of  great  use  in  fishing,  sometimes  driving  the  shoals  into  the 
nets,  sometimes  bringing  out  the  larger  fish  with  their  teeth.  I 
was  much  pleased  and  interested  with  the  sight.  It  has  always 
been  a fancy  of  mine  that  the  poor  creatures  whom  we  yvaste 
and  persecute  to  death  for  no  cause,  but  the  gratification  of  our 
cruelty,  might  by  reasonable  treatment  be  made  the  sources  of 
abundant  amusement  and  advantage  to  us.  The  simple  Hindoo 
shows  here  a better  taste  and  judgment  than  half  the  otter-hunting 
and  badger-baiting  gentry  of  England. 

One  of  the  fishing  vessels  came  on  board  with  some  fine  large 
fish,  and  one  of  the  dandees  had  caught  us  a turtle  in  the  morn- 
ing, which  turned  out  extremely  well,  so  that  we  had  a feast  to- 
day. The  Hilsa  fish  I had  heard  compared  to  a herring,  but  to 
which  it  bore  no  resemblance  that  I could  find,  either  in  taste  or 
size,  being  at  least  six  times  as  large.  It  is  reckoned  unwhole- 
some to  eat  in  any  quantity.  In  going  along  I witnessed  a disturb- 


128 


MATTACOLLY. 


ance  on  the  shore,  and  found  that  one  of  the  dandies  had  carried 
off  a fowl  belonging  to  a Mussulman  cottage.  I of  course  made 
him  restore  it,  and  cautioned  the  whole  crew,  that  if  I saw  any 
more  misconduct  of  the  kind,  I would  have  the  offender  before 
the  next  magistrate.  1 am  not  sorry  to  have  had  an  opportunity 
of  reading  them  this  lesson. 

Between  five  and  six  this  morning  we  passed  Mattacolly,  the 
town  whence  this  stream  takes  its  name,  or  vice  versa.  It  was 
the  largest  assemblage  of  native  dwellings  (for  there  are  no  brick 
houses  among  them)  which  I have  seen  since  we  left  Calcutta,  and 
a very  considerable  number  of  native  vessels,  some  of  large  size, 
were  moored  before  it.  The  Serang  spoke  of  it  as  a place  of  great 
trade,  being  the  mart  for  salt  to  all  the  central  provinces  of  Ben- 
gal, and  the  principal  source  whence  rice,  mustard-oil,  salt-fish, 
and  butter  were  obtained  for  the  Calcutta  market.  The  usual 
channel  of  communication  with  Calcutta  was  by  the  Sunderbunds 
and  the  Mohanna  river,  which  we  left  behind,  and  whose  princi- 
pal stream,  as  I then  noticed,  falls  into  them.  Our  people  com- 
plain of  the  dearth  of  rice.  The  last  harvest  was  not  a very  good 
one,  and  the  famine  in  Malabar  has  in  some  degree  occasioned 
scarcity  in  Bengal.  At  least,  rice  is  now  more  than  twice  the 
usual  price. 

We  had  several  severe  storms  of  wind  and  rain  during  the  day, 
and,  unluckily  for  us,  the  place  where  we  brought  to  for  the  night 
was  a spit  of  sand  cut  off  from  the  land  by  a strong  crop  of  in- 
digo, almost  as  high  as  our  heads,  and  so  wet  that  one  might  have 
as  well  walked  through  a waterfall.  Stowe  succeeded  in  turning 
a corner,  and  got  into  some  green  meadows  beyond^  with  a 
pretty  little  river  like  the  Cherwell  winding  through  them.  1 was 
less  venturesome,  and  contented  myself  with  examining  some  of 
the  peculiarities  of  the  indigo,  with  which  I was  previously  un- 
acquainted. It  is,  I find,  a real  vetch,  having  a blossom  like  a 
pea,  as  well  as  a vetch-shaped  leaf.  It  is  chiefly  cultivated  on 
the  banks  of  the  rivers,  as  the  driest  situations.  One  indigo  esta- 
blishment was  near  us,  and  Abdullah  had  already  sent  to  know  if 
any  leaven  or  bread  w*ere  attainable.  The  answer  was  that  the 
Sahibs  had  nothing  of  the  kind,  and  never  got  any  thing  better 
than  the  unleavened  bread  of  the  country.  So  that  it  appears  the 
old  Frenchman  was  not  singular  in  his  privations.  We  have 
lately  seen  a few  instances  of  a singular  hat,  worn  by  the  boatmen 
and  peasantry.  It  is  precisely  the  head  of  a small  umbrella, 
made  of  straw,  like  the  umbrellas  which  they  usually  carry,  but 
without  a handle,  and  tied  under  the  chin  by  two  strings,  which 
come  somewhere  from  its  middle,  resembling,  in  fact,  pretty 
nearly  the  straw  hats  worn  by  the  Chinese,  except  as  being  more 
clumsy.  It  must  be  very  useful,  however,  both  in  rain  and  sun- 


RUPERRA. 


129 


shine,  and  I wonder  that  it  is  not  more  general.  Many  of  the 
larger  boats  which  we  passed  this  day  were  painted  black,  the 
bamboo  pillars  which  support  the  platform  carved,  and  the  sterns 
ornamented  with  large  brass  studs. 

June  28. — The  river  takes  a remarkable  twist  here,  so  that  our 
course  lay  north-east  by  north.  This  indeed  threatens  to  lengthen 
our  journey  to  Dacca,  but  is  a great  relief  to  the  men,  as  they  are 
enabled  to  make  sail,  and  our  progress  is  much  more  rapid, 
though,  certainly,  not  in  so  favourable  a direction  as  yesterday. 
We  saw  a striking  specimen  of  the  precarious  tenure  of  these 
high  djanks,  and  how  slight  causes  will  sometimes  make  them 
topple  over.  One  of  these  cliffs  or  scaurs,  for  they  pretty  nearly 
answer  to  the  latter  name,  without  any  reason  that  we  saw  but 
the  agitation  of  the  water  occasioned  by  our  vessel,  though  we 
were  at  some  distance,  fell  suddenly  to  the  weight  of  many  tons, 
and  immediately,  as  if  answering  a signal,  in  two  other  places  the 
bank  gave  way  in  the  same  manner.  Had  we  been  under  any  of 
them,  our  vessel  must  have  gone  to  the  bottom,  and  the  ripple 
was  distinctly  felt  even  where  we]  were.  About  nine  o’clock  we 
passed  Ruperra,  a considerable  village,  vvith  a large  ruinous 
building.  Ruinous  as  it  is,  after  the  specimen  which  Sibnibashi 
afforded  us,  we  were  not  surprised  to  find  it  still  occupied  by  the 
Zemindar  of  the  district.  In  its  present  state,  and  rapidly  as  we 
passed  it  with  a favourable  wind,  it  is  not  very  easy  to  judge  of 
what  it  originally  has  been,  but  from  its  Grecian  architecture  it 
can  hardly  be  old,  while  it  has  evident  marks  of  having  been  con- 
structed in  a striking  and  picturesque  taste.  But  as  I have  before 
observed,  a building  soon  becomes  ruinous  here,  and  to  repair 
any  thing  does  not  seem  the  habit  of  India.  Abdullah  had  more 
than  once  told  us  strange  things  of  the  “ Birds  of  Paradise,” 
which  we  were  to  see  as  we  approached  the  Great  Ganges.  I 
confess  1 was  slow  to  give  credit  to  him,  having  always  understood 
that  the  remarkable  birds  usually  so  called,  were  inhabitants  of 
the  Malayan  and  Sooloo  Archipelagos  only.  He  described  them, 
however,  accurately  enough,  as  large  birds,  of  a gold  colour,  with 
a crest  and  very  long  tail ; adding,  that  the  feathers  were  the 
same  with  those  silky  golden  ones  which  he  had  seen  sold  in  Lon- 
don. This  morning  he  called  to  us  in  a great  hurry,  that  one  of 
them  was  in  sight,  perched  on  a tree  not  far  from  the  water’s 
edge.  Unfortunately  I could  not  distinguish  it,  but  Stowe,  who 
saw  it,  though  imperfectly,  said  it  appeared  to  answer  his  de- 
scription. 

The  nets  used  for  fishing  these  waters  are.  very  simple  and 
imperfect ; their  casting-nets  are  indeed  large,  and  good  of  their 
kind,  but  of  course  chiefly  applicable  to  the  smaller  fry.  We 
have  seen  no  instance  of  the  seine  or  drag-net,  and  the  rest,  even 

VoL.  I.— 17 


130 


TYNYBANYA. 


their  largest,  seem  on  the  principle  of  a scoop,  triangular,  and  ter- 
minating in  a purse.  They  are  extended  on  two  long  bamboos, 
to  catch  the  stream  and  all  it  brings  with  it,  and  when  supposed 
to  be  tolerably  full,  are  lifted  suddenly.  Sometimes  they  are 
thus  managed  in  boats  in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  where  they 
must  require  considerable  dexterity  ; sometimes  they  are  fastened 
to  bamboos  in  likely  eddies,  near  the  banks.  In  either  case  the 
tame  otters  must  be  of  most  essential  service  to  drive  the  fish  and 
terrify  them  from  escaping.  This  rudeness  of  net  struck  me  more, 
because  on  the  Hooghly  very  large  nets,  apparently  of  the  seine 
kind,  are  used,  with  Kedgeree  pots  for  floats.  The  river  con- 
tinues a noble  one,  and  the  country  bordering  on  it  is  now  of  a 
fertility  and  tranquil  beauty,  such  as  I never  saw  before.  Beauty 
it  certainly  has,  though  it  has  neither  mountain,  nor  waterfall,  nor 
rock,  which  all  enter  into  our  notions  of  beautiful  scenery  in 
England.  But  the  broad  river,  with  a very  rapid  current,  swarm- 
ing with  small  picturesque  canoes,  and  no  less  picturesque  fisher- 
men, winding  through  fields  of  green  corn,  natural  meadows 
covered  with  cattle,  successive  plantations  of  cotton,  sugar,  and 
pawn,  studded  with  villages  and  masts  in  every  creek  and  angle, 
and  backed  continually  (though  not  in  a continuous  and  heavy 
line  like  the  shores  of  the  Hooghly)  with  magnificent  peepul,  ba- 
nian, bamboo,  betel,  and  coco  trees,  aflford  a succession  ofpictures 
the  most  riant  that  1 have  seen,  and  infinitely  beyond  any  thing 
which  1 ever  expected  to  see  in  Bengal.  To  add  to  our  pleasure 
this  day,  we  had  a fine  rattling  breeze  carrying  us  along  against 
the  stream,  which  it  raised  into  a curl,  at  the  rate  of  five  miles  an 
hour ; and  more  than  all,  1 heard  from  my  wife.  We  brought  to 
at  seven  near  a large  village,  called  Tynybanya.  The  banks  near 
the  river  were  cultivated  in  alternate  quillets  with  rice  and  cotton. 
Then  followed  long  ridges  of  pawn,  which  grows  something  like 
a kidney-bean,  and  is  carefully  covered  above  and  on  every  side 
with  branches  of  bamboo,  forming  a sort  of  hedge  and  roof,  as 
high  as  a man’s  head.  When  these  branches  and  leaves  become 
withered,  (which  they  soon  do,)  they  look  exactly  like  a high  mud 
wall,  so  like  indeed,  that  when  we  first  saw  them  in  the  course  of 
this  morning,  we  both  thought  they  were  garden  walls,  and  that 
the  pawn  was  cultivated  within  instead  of  under  them.  Pawn 
seems  one  of  the  most  highly  valued  productions  of  India,  if  we 
judge  either  by  the  pains  taken  in  its  cultivation,  or  the  price 
which  it  bears  : we  were  told  that  its  retail  price  was  sixty  leaves, 
(each  as  large  as  a bay -leaf)  for  an  ana  (l^d.),  no  contemptible 
rate  in  a country  where  all  products  of  agricultural  labour  are 
so  cheap,  and  where  rice  may  be  had  at  less  than  half  an  ana  the 
seer,  a weight  of  nearly  two  pounds.  Yet  the  only  use  of  pawn 
(which  has  a hottish  spicy  flavour)  is  to  wrap  up  the  betel-nut 


BETEL-NUTS— GUN  G A. 


131 


which  the  natives  of  India  delight  in  chewing,  and  for  which  I 
should  have  thought  many  other  leaves  would  answer  as  well. 
Our  servants,  indeed,  have  an  idea  that  the  root  of  the  pawn  is 
collected  by  the  apothecaries  as  medicine,  and  sold  at  a high  rate 
for  exportation,  but  I never  remember  hearing  of  it.  I tried 
chewing  the  betel  to-day,  and  thought  it  not  unpleasant,  at  least 
I can  easily  believe  that  where  it  is  fashionable,  people  may  soon 
grow  fond  of  it.  The  nut  is  cut  into  small  squares  and  wrapped 
up  in  the  leaf,  together  with  some  chunarn.  It  is  warm  and  pun- 
gent in  The  mouth,  and  has  the  immediate  effect  of  staining  the 
tongue,  mouth,  and  lips,  a fiery  orange  colour.  The  people  here 
fancy  it  is  good  for  the  teeth,  but  they  do  not  all  take  it.  I see 
about  half  the  crew  without  the  stain  on  their  lips,  but  I do  not 
think  the  teeth  of  the  others  are  better. 

The  betel  is  a beautiful  tree,  the  tallest  and  slenderest  of  the 
palm  kind,  with  a very  smooth  white  bark.  Nothing  can  be  more 
graceful  than  its  high  slender  pillars,  when  backed  by  the  dark 
shade  of  bamboos  and  other  similar  foliage.  A noble  grove  of 
this  kind  succeeded  to  the  pawn  rows  at  our  village  this  evening, 
embosoming  the  cottages,  together  with  their  little  gardens,  and, 
what  I see  here  in  greater  perfection  than  I have  yet  seen  in 
Bengal,  their  little  green  meadows  and  home-steads.  We  ram- 
bled among  these  till  darkness  warned  us  to  return.  The  name 
of  this  river  is  Chundnah.  We  saw  a large  eagle  seated  on  a 
peepul  tree  very  near  us.  On  the  peepul  an  earthen  pot  was 
hanging,  which  Abdullah  said  was  brought  thither  by  some  per- 
son whose  father  was  dead,  that  the  ghost  might  drink.  I before 
knew  that  spirits  were  supposed  to  delight  in  peepul  trees,  but 
did  not  know,  or  had  forgotten  the  coincidence,  of  the  brahmini- 
cal  with  the  classical 

June  29. — This  morning  we  continued  our  way  with  a strong 
and  favourable  breeze  against  “ a broader  and  a broader  stream, 
that  rocked  the  little  boat,”  and  surpassing  the  liooghly  almost  as 
much  in  width  as  in  the  richness,  beauty,  and  cheerfulness  of  its 
banks,  which  makes  me  believe  that  Calcutta  is  really  one  of  the 
most  unfavourable  situations  in  Bengal.  We  passed  some  fish- 
ing-boats of  very  ingenious  construction,  w^ell  adapted  for  pad- 
dling in  shallow  water,  and  at  the  same  time  not  unsafe,  being 
broad  in  the  beam  and  finely  shaped.  They  were  also  clinker 
built,  the  first  of  that  kind  which  1 have  seen  in  India.  About 
12  o’clock  we  passed  on  our  left-hand  a large  and  handsome  Eu- 
ropean house,  very  nobly  situated  on  a high  dry  bank,  with  tine 
trees  round  it,  and  immediately  after,  we  saw  before  us  a sheet 
of  \yater,  the  opposite  bank  of  which  was  scarcely  visible,  being 
in  fact  Gunga  in  her  greatest  pride  and  glory.  The  main  arni 
which  was  visible,  strechedaway  to  the  north-west,  literally  look- 


132 


OFFERING  TO  KHIZR. 


ing  like  a sea,  with  many  sails  on  it.  Directly  north,  though  still 
at  a considerable  distance,  the  stream  was  broken  by  a large 
sandy  island,  and  to  the  south,  beyond  some  low  sandy  islets  and 
narrower  channels,  we  saw  another  reach,  like  the  one  to  the 
north,  with  a sandy  shore,  looking  not  unlike  the  coast  of  Lan- 
cashire, as  seen  trending  away  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mersey. 
To  one  of  these  islets  we  stood  across  with  a fine  breeze.  There 
the  boatmen  drew  ashore,  and  one  of  them  came  to  ask  me 
for  an  offering,  which  it  was  (he  said)  always  customary  to  make 
at  this  point,  to  Khizr^  for  a good  passage.  Khizr,for  whom  the 
Mussulmans  have  a great  veneration,  is  a sort  of  mythological 
personage,  made  up  of  different  Rabbinical  fables  concerning 
Eliezer  the  servant  of  Abraham,  and  the  prophet  Elijah,  on 
which  arc  engrafted  the  chivalrous  legends  respecting  St.  George  I 
They  believe  him  to  have  attended  Abraham,  in  which  capacity 
he  drank  of  the  fountain  of  youth,  which  gave  him  immortality. 
This  is  Rabbinical,  but  the  Mussulmans  also  believe  him  to  have 
gone  dry-shod  over  Jordan,  to  have  ascended  to  heaven  in  a fiery 
chariot,  and  lastly,  to  be  a valorous  knight,  who  helps  the  arms 
of  the  believers,  and  will  return  at  length  on  a white  horse,  a 
little  before  the  day  of  judgment,  together  with,  and  as  the  Vizier 
of  our  Lord,  to  destroy  Dejjal  or  Anti-Christ,  and  subdue  the 
multitudes  of  Gog  and  Magog.  But  as  having  access  to  the  foun- 
tain of  life,  and  as  having  passed  Jordan,  he  is  particularly  dis- 
posed to  love  and  cherish  the  waters,  and  all  which  belong  to,  or 
sail  on  them.  Dacca,  under  the  Mogul  dynasty,  was  placed 
under  his  peculiar  protection,  and  he  naturally  succeeded  to  that 
veneration,  which,  in  the  same  district,  the  Hindoos  had  previous- 
ly been  in  the  habit  of  paying  to  their  Varuna,  god  of  the  seas 
and  rivers. 

Our  vessel  found  something  like  a sea  running  in  the  mid-chan- 
nel, and  I could  observe  our  two  sirdar-bearers  sitting  close  to 
each  other  with  very  melancholy  countenances.  I observed  to 
mine  that  this  river  was  greater  than  the  old  Gunga,  and  was 
amused  by  the  faint  and  dismal  assent  he  gave,  though  he  endea- 
voured to  conceal  his  unmariner-like  sensations.  We  stood 
across  to  the  other  side,  leaving  a large  sandy  island  on  the  right- 
hand,  and  halted  to  wait  for  our  boats,  though  in  a bad  situation, 
where  a heavy  sea  beat  on  the  shore,  and  the  pinnace  thumped 
continually  on  the  sand.  We  ought  to  have  anchored  further 
out,  but  that  would  have  been  contrary  to  the  naval  tactics  of 
Bengal,  which  always  incline  to  hug  the  shore  as  much  as 
possible ; and  what  followed  made  me  rejoice  that  this  was  the 
case.  A poor  miserable-looking  man  came  along-side,  and  with 
joined  hands,  and  in  accents  of  deep  distress,  asked  for  medicine. 
On  inquiring  what  was  the  matter,  he  said  that  he  and  eight 


BEGGARS— RELIGIOUS  MENDICANT. 


133 


others,  a boat’s  crew,  were  all  lying  within  a few  yards  so  ill 
and  weak  that  they  could  not  navigate  their  vessel,  and  only 
himself  and  two  more  had  strength  to  crawl  about  at  all.  The 
complaint  he  called  “ play,”  which  I was  told  was  a bilious  fever. 
We  went  to  the  vessel,  which  presented,  indeed,  a dismal  scene 
of  misery.  I would  not  let  Stowe  go  into  the  cabin,  which  he  was 
about  to  do,  but.  made  the  poor  fellows  come  to  the  gangway. 
Their  case  seemed  a very  plain  one,  their  tongues  white,  pulse 
very  quick  and  hard,  and  skin  much  suffused  with  yellow,  and 
they  had  almost  given  up  hope  of  life.  Our  Serang  said  it  was 
the  Sunderbund  disease,  in  fact  a marsh  fever.  Stowe  immedi- 
ately fell  to  work  to  make  some  pills  of  calomel  and  colocynth, 
which  they  took  very  thankfully,  and  left  them  more  to  take  if 
required. 

We  soon  found  indeed,  and  on  their  account  found  with  less 
regret,  that  many  things  were  to  be  done  before  we  could  resume 
our  voyage.  As  the  wind  was  full  against  us,  our  top-masts  were 
to  be  struck,  and  other  preparations  made  for  tracking.  The 
boat-men  wished  to  show  their  gratitude  to  St.  George,  (or  St. 
Khizr,)  by  a little  feast ; and  as  the  village  where  our  lot  was 
thrown  bade  fair  to  be  interesting,  we  disposed  ourselves  for  an 
earlier  and  longer  walk  after  dinner  than  usual.  Meantime  we 
were  besieged  by  beggars  : a wretched  old  leper  all  over  sores,  a 
younger  object  of  the  same  kind,  a blind  man,  with  many  others, 
came  down  to  the  beach  ; and  when,  after  dinner,  we  walked  into 
the  village,  a very  small  and  deformed  dwarf,  an  old  man,  not 
above  three  feet  high,  was  brought  on  a man’s  shoulders.  He 
seemed  to  set  a tolerably  high  value  on  himself,  and  instead  of 
being  grateful  for  the  alms  I gave  him  as  a beggar,  wanted  to  be 
paid  as  a curiosity.  The  most  characteristic,  however,  of  these 
applicants,  was  a tall,  well-made,  but  lean  and  raw-boned  man, 
in  a most  fantastic  array  of  rags  and  wretchedness,  and  who 
might  have  answered  admirably  to  Shakspeare’s  Edgar.  He  had 
a very  filthy  turban  round  his  head,  with  a cock’s  feather  in  it ; 
two  satchels  flung  over  his  broad  shoulders, — the  remains  of  a 
cummerbund,  which  had  been  scarlet, — a large  fan  of  the  pal- 
metto-leaf in  one  hand,  and  over  the  other  wrist  an  enormous 
chaplet  of  wooden  beads.  He  came  up  to  our  boatman  with  a 
familiar  air,  bade  them  salam  with  great  cordiality,  then,  half 
laughing,  but  with  moments  in  which  his  voice  assumed  a tone 
as  deep  as  a curfew,  appeared  to  ask  their  benevolence.  He 
was  a Mussulman  religious  mendicant,  and  was  come  to  congratu- 
late his  brethren  on  their  arrival,  and  receive  their  bounty.  That 
bounty  was  small  : neither  his  own  merits,  nor  those  of  Khizr, 
could  extract  a single  pice  either  from  Serang  or  boatmen.  They 
gave  him,  however,  a little  rice,  which  he  received  in  a very 


134 


FIELD  OF  CUCUMBERS. 


bright  and  clean  pot,  and  then  strode  away,  without  asking  any 
thing  of  us,  and  singing  Illah,  Illahu  ! 

The  evening  was  very  fine,  and  we  had  a beautiful  stroll  along 
the  beach  and  through  the  village,  which,  more  than  most  1 have 
seen,  reminded  me  of  the  drawings  of  Otaheite  and  the  Friendly 
Islands.  It  was  surrounded  by  quillets  of  cotton,  sugar-cane  and 
rice,  overgrown  with  bamboos  and  palms,  and  on  the  shore  were 
some  fine  specimens  of  the  datura  stramonium,  which,  as  night 
came  on,  opened  a magnificent  and  very  fragrant  white  lily- 
shaped flower,  while  all  the  grass  and  bushes  were  gemmed  with 
brilliant  fire  flies.  A number  of  canoes  were  building  on  the 
beach,  many  of  them  very  neatly  made,  and,  like  those  which  I 
have  lately  seen,  clinkered.  These  were,  however,  dear,  (at 
least  1 thought  so.)  On  asking  the  price  of  one  of  them,  the 
carpenter  who  was  painting  her  said  46  rupees.  Dragon-root 
grows  plentifully  in  all  these  thickets. 

On  going  at  night-fall  to  inquire  after  our  patients,  we  found 
them  already  better,  but  very  anxious  for  wine  or  spirits,  which 
they  said  always  cured  the  Sunderbund  fever.  Rhadacant  Deb 
had  assured  me  that  no  Hindoo  ought  or  would  on  any  account 
take  spirits,  or  even  any  liquid  medicine,  from  the  hands  of  an 
European.  Yet  these  people  were  all  Hindoos;  so  that  it  ap- 
pears that  the  fear  of  death  conquers  all  the  rules  of  superstition, 
or  else  that  these  people  in  general  really  care  less  about  the 
matter  than  either  Europeans,  or  such  bigots  as  Rhadacant  Deb 
would  have  us  believe. 

The  river,  I should  guess,  at  this  place,  is  about  as  wide  as  the 
Mersey  a mile  below  Liverpool ; but  its  very  flat  shores  make  it 
look  wfider.  The  place  where  we  lay  was  evidently  frequented 
by  people  who  either  were  frightened,  or  had  recently  been  so, 
since  there  were  very  many  traces  of  that  devotion  which  origi- 
nates from  a supposed  dangerous  enterprise.  I saw  no  fewer  than 
three  turf-built  kiblas,  for  the  devotion  or  thanksgiving  of  Mo- 
hammedans ; and  a small  shed  containing  the  figure  of  a horse, 
rudely  made  of  straw  plastered  over  with  clay,  which  I was  at  a 
loss  whether  to  regard  as  Mohammedan  or  pagan,  since  the  Mus- 
sulmans of  this  country  carry  about  an  image  of  the  horse  of  Hos- 
sein,  and  pay  much  honour  to  that  of  Khizr.  Near  it  was  a small 
shed  of  bamboos  and  thatch,  where  a man  was  watching  a field 
of  cucumbers,  which  interested  me  as  being  the  same  custom  to 
which  Isaiah  alludes  in  chap.  i.  ver.  8.  I pointed  out  the  coin- 
cidence to  Abdullah,  who  was  greatly  delighted,  and  observed, 
after  some  praises  of  Isaiah,  that,  surely  the  old  religion  of  the 
brahmins  must  have  had  some  truth,  since  they  all,  he  said,  looked 
forward  to  an  incarnation  of  Vishnu,  on  a white  horse,  to  restore 
the  world  to  happiness.  “ They  only  not  know,”  he  said,  “ that 


MONSOON, 


135 


Vishnu  already  incarnate,  and  that  he  come  again  when  they 
mention,  on  white  horse,  as  they  speak alluding,  as  he  after- 
wards explained  himself,  to  the  description  of  Christ  in  Revela- 
tions xix.  ver.  11.  This  man  is  certainly  intelligent,  and,  for  his 
situation  in  life,  extremely  well-informed. 

And  thus  we  are,  literally,  in  India  beyond  the  Ganges.  We 
have  had  the  mortification,  however,  of  learning  that  we  have 
come  hither  too  soon,  and  that  our  Serang  ought  to  have  kept  on 
the  western  bank  till  almost  opposite  Jaffiergunge.  Through  his 
ignorance  we  shall  have  the  greatest  strength  of  the  monsoon  to 
contend  with  to-morrow,  instead  of  having  its  force  broken  by  a 
weather  shore,  or  one  w^hich  partly  answers  to  that  description. 

June  30. — This  morning  we  heard  a very  good  account  of  our 
patients,  and  left  them  with  a small  stock  of  bark  and  wine, 
enough,  I should  hope,  to  set  up  men  who  are  entirely  unaccus- 
tomed to  any  stimulant.  We  found,  unfortunately,  but  too  soon, 
the  difficulty  of  proceeding  on  our  way  to  Dacca.  The  men 
towed  us  a few  miles  with  much  labour  against  a fierce  wind, 
which  thumped  us  every  moment  with  right  good-will,  on  the  clay 
bank, — then  begged  leave  to  rest, — then  to  try  the  middle  of  the 
river.  To  this  measure  we  were  much  inclined,  as  the  stream 
we  thought  would  of  itself  be  enough  to  carry  our  vessel  down, 
while  the  wind  (with  the  driver  and  jib)  would  serve  to  steady 
us.  We  soon  found,  however,  that  the  pinnace,  from  its  want  of 
keel,  had  no  guidance  or  stability  in  the  water ; that  she  neither 
answered  to  her  helm,  nor  in  the  least  bore  up  against  the  wind ; 
nay,  that  the  stream  itself  had  not  so  much  hold  on  her  shallow 
construction  as  the  wind  had,  even  when  all  the  sails  were  down. 
I urged  them  to  try  their  oars  ; but  the  sea  ran  so  high,  and  the 
vessel  rolled  so  much  in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  that  these  too 
were  useless,  or  nearly  so.  We  tried  to  regain  the  shore  from 
which  we  had  parted,  but  found  this  difficult,  without  a very  se- 
rious loss  of  ground.  Under  these  circumstances  it  seemed  still 
adviseable  to  stretch  over  to  the  western  bank,  which  we  had 
prematurely  quitted ; and  accordingly  we  stood  across  for  the 
sandy  island,  which,  on  our  arrival,  we  found  divided  by  a broad 
channel.  Our  Serang  was  very  coolly  going  to  establish  himself 
for  the  night  on  the  first  land  which  he  touched ; but  I insisted 
on  his  at  least  proceeding  over  the  next  broad  stream,  so  as  to  get 
in  a favourable  direction  for  towing  next  day,  and  for  remaining 
with  a weather-shore  during  the  night.  He  obeyed,  and  we  at 
5 o’clock  again  took  up  our  quarters  on  a sandy  beach,  the  very 
likeness  of  Southey’s  Crocodile  Island,  being  pretty  nearly  the 
spot  where  we  should  have  been  yesterday  evening,  had  our 
Serang  known  where  he  was.  The  only  interesting  occurrence 
was  the  capture  of  a very  large  and  beautiful  iguana,  or  lizard, 


136 


LI21ARDS— JAFFIERGUNGE. 


2 feet  9 inches  long,  with  five  toes  on  each  foot,  and  a forked 
tongue,  beautifully  marked  with  tiger-like  stripes  of  yellow  and 
black.  It  was  basking  on  the  river  bank,  but  was  no  sooner  dis- 
turbed than  it  ran  into  the  water,  then,  seeing  the  boats,  instead 
of  diving,  it  began  to  creep  up  the  bank  again,  when  one  of  the 
boatmen  caught  it  in  a snickle.  They  were  all  much  afraid  of  it, 
and  spoke  of  its  bite  as  poisonous,  which,  from  its  appearance,  I 
am  little  inclined  to  believe.  It  did  not,  indeed,  seem  to  have 
any  teeth  at  all.  Stowe  rambled  about  the  island,  and  waded 
through  a marsh  after  some  widgeons,  and  shot  two ; on  cutting 
them  up  an  egg  was  found  in  each.  This  supply  will  not  be 
unseasonable  to  our  rapidly  decreasing  larder. 

July  1. — This  morning,  the  wind  being  more  moderate,  we 
continued  our  course  to  the  western  bank  of  the  river,  without 
any  great  loss  of  ground,  and  then  proceeded  favourably  enough 
by  towing.  The  river  soon  became  free  from  islands  of  any  sort, 
and  expanded  into  the  most  noble  sheet  of  fresh  water  I ever  saw, 
I should  guess  not  less  than  four  miles  wide.  The  banks  are 
tolerably  high  when  we  are  near  them,  but  while  we  creep  along 
the  one,  the  other  is  only  seen  as  a long  black  line  on  the  horizon. 
Of  course,  though  the  view  is  striking,  it  is  not  picturesque,  and 
it  would  soon  weary  us,  which  could  hardly  be  the  case  with  the 
beautiful  Chundnah. 

I had  the  delight  to-day  of  hearing  again  from  my  wife,  and 
this  is  worth  all  the  fine  scenery  in  the  world. 

The  fishermen  are  a finer  race  here  than  those  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Calcutta,  and  their  boats  better.  They  have  also 
large  seines,  like  those  on  the  Hooghly.  Yet  many  circumstances 
in  their  equipments  are  extremely  rude.  Many  have  for  sail  a 
mat,  or  cloth,  suspended  between  two  bamboos,  one  on  each  gun- 
wale, like  the  New-Zealanders  ; and  one  skiff  passed  us  scudding 
under  a yet  simpler  contrivance,  two  men  standing  up  in  her,  and 
extending  each  a garment  with  his  feet  and  hands.  I have  seen 
some  such  representations  of  Cupids  and  Venuses  on  gems,  but 
little  thought  that  the  thing  had  its  prototype  in  real  life,  and  was 
the  practice  of  any  modern  boatmen. 

The  noise  of  the  Ganges  is  really  like  the  sea.  As  we  passed 
near  a hollow  and  precipitous  part  of  the  bank,  on  which  the 
wind  set  full,  it  told  on  my  ear  exactly  as  if  the  tide  were  coming 
in ; and  when  the  moon  rested  at  night  on  this  great,  and,  as  it 
then  seemed,  this  shoreless  extent  of  water,  we  might  have  fan- 
cied ourselves  in  the  cuddy  of  an  Indiaman,  if  our  cabin  were  not 
.too  near  the  water.  About  half  past  five  we  stood  across  the 
river,  which  ran  really  high,  and  washed  the  decks  handsomely, 
and  brought  to  amid  rice,  indigo,  and  sugar-fields,  near  the  native 
town  of  Jafiiergunge,  and  had  an  interesting  walk,  though  it  was 


VIVACITY  OF  THE  NATIVE  INDIANS. 


137 


too  late  for  a long  one.  The  people  were  cutting  indigo,  which 
they  then  packed  in  large  bundles,  and  loaded  in  boats.  It  both 
looked  and  smelt  something  like  new-made  hay,  though  with 
rather  a stronger  flavour.  A good  deal  of  wild  celery  was  grow- 
ing on  the  bank,  which  Abdullah*said  the  people  of  this  country 
boil  and  eat  in  large  quantities,  believing  it  to  be  very  wholesome. 
The  night-blowing  stramonium  was  also  abundant. 

July  2. — We  entered  the  river  of  Jafliergunge,  called  Com- 
mercolly  in  Rennell’s  map,  which  here,  however,  as  in  other 
places,  probably  from  some  alteration  in  the  course  of  the  stream, 
is  utterly  useless.  The  country  all  populous,  highly  cultivated 
with  rice,  sugar,  cotton,  and  indigo ; and  though  woody,  the  banks 
are  not  oppressed  with  such  exuberant  and  heavy  arborage  as 
those  of  the  Hooghly.  We  passed  a considerable  indigo  factory, 
with  a very  pretty  house  attached  to  it.  There  seemed  more 
machinery,  and  more  activity  here,  than  in  any  which  we  have 
seen.  The  appearance  of  the  workmen,  whose  naked  limbs  and 
bodies  were  covered  with  the  blue  dye,  was  very  singular. 

The  wind  favoured  our  progress  to-day ; and  though  the  Serang 
did  not  care  to  abandon  his  trusty  tow-line,  the  men  had  light 
work,  and  were  in  high  spirits.  On  passing  a banian  tree,  where 
were  an  old  mat  and  a pitcher,  one  of  them  ran  forwards  with- 
out giving  any  notice  of  his  intentions,  drew  the  mat  round  his 
loins,  placed  the  potsherd  by  his  side  according  to  rule,  and  so 
ridiculously  imitated  the  gestures  of  a “ Yogi,”  (a  religious  men- 
dicant,) singing  all  the  time  in  the  dismal  tune  which  they  use, 
putting  his  hands  over  his  head,  sprinkling  earth  on  his  face,  &c. 
that  his  comrades  were  quite  disabled  from  their  work  with 
laughing,  and  I was  myself  exceedingly  amused.  Indeed,  not 
having  seen  him  run  forwards,  I reallj^  at  first  supposed  him  to 
be  the  person  he  counterfeited,  and  wondered  at  the  irreverent 
mockery  with  which  so  holy  a man  was  treated,  till  in  a few 
minutes  he  sprang  up,  threw  his  mat  and  handful  of  ashes  at  his 
comrades,  and  catching  up  his  truncheon  of  bamboo,  resumed 
his  place  in  the  team  with  an  agility  and  strength  which  urged 
all  the  rest  into  a round  trot.  This  is  only  one  out  of  twenty 
instances  which  every  day  offers,  of  the  vivacity  of  these  fellows, 
who  are,  in  fact,  always  chattering,  singing,  laughing,  or  playing 
each  other  tricks.  Yet  I have  met  many  people  in  Calcutta  who 
gravely  complain  of  the  apathy  and  want  of  vivacity  in  the  na- 
tives of  India.  My  own  observation,  both  of  these  men  and  of 
the  peasants  and  fishermen  whom  we  pass,  is  of  a very  different 
character.  They  are  active,  lively,  gossiping,  and  laborious 
enough  when  they  have  any  motive  to  stimulate  them  to  exertion. 
Had  I an  indigo  plantation,  I would  put  them  all  to  task-work, 
and  1 am  sure  that,  with  due  inspection  to  prevent  fraud,  few 

VoL.  T.— 18 


138 


SAIL  TO  DACCA, 


labourers  would  surpass  them  in  steady  work,  and  still  fewer 
would  equal  them  in  cheapness.  Their  habit  of  coming  late  to 
their  labour,  and  breaking  off  early,  arises  from  the  variety  of 
callings  which  each  man  at  present  exercises,  and  the  time  which 
he  loses  in  preparing  his  food.  « Make  it  worth  their  while  to  es- 
tablish messes,  where  one  should  cook  for  the  remainder,  and 
give  them  facilities  of  eating  a noon-day  meal  on  the  scene  of 
their  work,  and  they  would,  1 think,  be  easily  persuaded,  with 
far  ^greater  comfort  to  themselves,  and  advantage  to  their  em- 
ployers, to  begin  and  leave  off  work  at  the  same  time  with  Eng- 
lish labourers.  Indeed,  at  some  of  the  indigo  works  which  we 
have  passed,  this  seems  the  case  ; and  1 am  sure  that  the  fisher- 
men and  dandees  work  as  late  and  early  as  any  people. 

The  stream  as  we  advanced  became  broader,  and  the  country 
assumed  the  character  of  inundation.  The  villages,  on  land  a 
little  elevated,  were  each  surrounded  by  its  thicket  of  bamboos 
and  fruit  trees.  Some  fine  tall  spreading  banians  and  peepuls 
were  scattered  on  the  driest  patches  of  the  open  country,  but 
the  rest  was  a sheet  of  green  rice,  intersected  in  every  direction 
by  shallow  streams,  which  did  not  as  yet  cover  the  crop,  but 
made  it  look  like  rushes  in  a marsh.  The  low  banks  of  the  river 
were  marked  out  by  the  bushes  of  datura  stramonium,  and  long 
silky  tufted  grass,  which  from  place  to  place  rose  above  the  water, 
and  here  our  boatmen  waded  sometimes  mid-leg,  sometimes  knee- 
deep.  Indigo,  in  this  low  country,  is  confined  to  the  banks  round 
the  villages,  whence  we  saw  several  boats  conveying  it  to  the 
works  which  we  had  left  behind  us. 

About  two  o’clock  we  entered  on  an  immense  extent  of  flat 
and  flooded  country,  stretching  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  to 
the  north-west,  without  even  trees  or  any  similar  object  to  break 
the  line  of  horizon.  Here  at  Gwalparah  we,  for  the  first  time 
since  leaving  the  Ganges,  had  the  stream  in  our  favour.  As  the 
wind  was  not  altogether  unfavourable,  we  hoisted  sail,  and  the 
stream  strengthened  as  we  got  into  the  middle  of  the  river.  The 
Serang  told  me  we  should  do  extremely  well,  provided  we  could 
make  a particular  clump  of  trees,  which  we  were  in  a very  fair 
way  for,  when  suddenly  the  wind  drew  round  to  the  south-east, 
and  began  to  blow  hard,  with  rain,  v/hich  fairly  compelled  us  to 
bring  up  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  “ Jeel”"^  to  that  which  we 
intended,  on  a rotten  marsh,  overgrown  with  beautiful  jungle- 
grass,  tall  and  silky,  and  at  least  eight  feet  high,  so  as  completely 
to  bury  the  men  who  endeavoured  to  get  through  it.  Towards 
sunset  the  breeze  moderated,  when,  by  help  of  a little  rowing,  we 
got  off  from  shore,  and  found  ourselves  in  a wide  stream  of  muddy 

In  the  dry  season  a jeel  is  merely  a swamp,  but  during  the  rains,  when 
near  a river,  it  becomes  navigable  for  pinnaces. — En. 


SAIL  TO  DACCA— TOLLS. 


139 


water,  rushing  at  the  rate  of  eight  or  ten  knots  an  hour,  in 
which  our  sails  just  served  to  keep  us  steady,  and  which  carried 
us  in  little  more  than  an  hour  to  the  point  we  were  anxious  to 
attain*  We  received  two  messages  from  Mr.  Master,  judge  of 
Dacca,  in  the  course  of  the  day,  with  a most  liberal  supply  of 
bread,  fresh  butter,  and  fruit.  His  servants  say  we  may  easily 
reach  Dacca  to-morrow. 

July  3. — This  morning  we  advanced  about  twelve  miles  with 
the  current,  making  some  little  advantage  of  our  sails.  About 
eight  o’clock,  however,  the  wind  was  so  strong  and  so  complete- 
ly in  our  teeth,  that  we  were  forced  to  bring  to,  as  usual  on  a 
lee-shore,  but  so  soft  and  yielding,  being  in  fact  all  marsh  and 
reeds,  that  no  harm  was  likely  to  happen  to  the  vessel.  We  lay 
in  this  manner  till  past  ten,  when,  it  being  very  clear  that,  with 
such  a wind,  it  was  impossible  for  the  pinnace  to  reach  Dacca 
by  church-time  next  day,  I determined  on  going  thither  in  the 
jolly-boat,  leaving  Stowe,  whose  health  would  not  admit  of  his 
joining  such  an  expedition,  behind.  I accordingly  embarked, 
taking  with  me,  besides  my  clothes,  a pocket  compass,  and  a 
common  Bengalee  umbrella,  which  being  of  straw  1 thought 
would  keep  off  the  sun  more  effectually  than  my  own.  1 took 
Abdullah  and  four  of  the  best  rowers  of  our  crew,  leaving  on 
board  the  pinnace  four  of  Mr.  Master’s  police  boatmen  instead, 
who  came  to  offer  their  services.  The  adventures  of  such  a 
voyage  were  not  likely  to  be  very  numerous.  We  found  a really 
heavy  sea  in  the  middle  of  the  jeel,  which  washed  our  faces  libe- 
rally. The  width  of  this  expanse  of  water  was  on  an  average, 
1 think,  about  a mile,  showing  in  many  places  marks  of  the  vege- 
tation which  it  covered,  and  bordered,  mostly,  by  tall  rushes, 
jungle-grass,  and  rice  fields,  as  yet  only  partially  inundated.  The 
stream  was  exceedingly  strong,  so  much  so  as  perfectly  to  account 
for  the  height  of  the  waves,  which  the  wind  raised  by  their  oppo- 
sition. This  latter,  however,  became  more  moderate  after  we  had 
rowed  about  an  hour  and  a half,  and  the  remainder  of  our  progress 
was  very  rapid  and  easy,  the  men  having  little  more  to  do  than 
now  and  then  to  give  a pull  at  their  oars.  A striped  flag  at  the  en- 
trance of  a smaller  stream  on  our  left  hand,  attracted  my  attention, 
and  the  boatmen  told  me  that  a toll  was  paid  there  by  all  boats 
frequenting  a market  to  which  that  nullah  led.  These  local  taxes 
are  all,  throughout  the  company’s  territories,  applied  to  the  improve- 
ment of  the  districts  where  they  are  levied.  A little  farther  we 
were  hailed  from  the  shore  by  a man  earnestly  begging  to  be  taken 
on  board.  The  dandees  only  laughed,  but  I told  them  to  pull  in 
and  hear  his  story.  He  said  he  was  a soldier  in  the  14th,  Colonel 
Watson’s  regiment,  that  at  their  last  night’s  halting  place  he  had 
missed  the  boat  to  which  he  belonged,  and  that  now  all  the  flotilla 


140  APPROACH  TO  DACCA, 

was  passed  bj,  and  unless  we  gave  him  a lift,  he  had  no  chance 
of  getting  to  Dacca,  the  country  being  all  flooded,  and  he  unable 
to  swim  even  a few  yards.  I immediately  turned  the  boat’s  head 
to  the  shore,  and  he  came  on  board,  a very  fine  handsome  man, 
naked  save  his  waist-cloth,  and  with  a Brahminical  string,  but  with 
all  the  carriage  and  air  of  a guard’s-man.  Nobody  could,  indeed, 
mistake  his  profession,  even  if  he  had  not  made  his  military  salute 
very  gracefully.  He  said  he  had  begged  a passage  that  morning 
in  six  or  eight  boats,  but  seeing  him  naked  and  pennyless  they 
had  all  (as  he  said)  “ run  over  to  the  other  side,  as  if  he  had  been 
a tiger.”  He  added,  on  seeing  a Sahib  his  hopes  revived,  but, 
continued  he,  “ these  cursed  Bengalees  are  not  like  other  people, 
and  care  nothing  for  a soldier,  or  any  body  else  in  trouble.”  “ To 
be  sure,”  he  said,  laughing,  “ they  always  run  away  well.”  He  point- 
ed out  some  budgerows  and  other  large  boats  dropping  down  the 
stream  a few  miles  before  us,  and  said  his  comrades  were  there, 
and  he  should  be  very  thankful  if  we  would  put  him  on  board  of 
any  one.  We  were  about  an  hour  overtaking  them,  but  the  first 
we  approached  turned  out  to  be  a cook-boat,  and  he  begged  hard 
that  I would  not  put  him  in  a vessel  where  he  could  not  escape 
defilement,  (showing  his  string.) 

We  accordingly  proceeded  through  the  fleet,  which  consisted 
of  about  twenty  vessels,  all  deeply  loaded,  with  their  masts  struck, 
and  their  long  cumbersome  oars  answering  very  little  purpose, 
except  to  keep  them  steady  in  the  middle  of  the  current.  Such 
of  them,  indeed,  as  were  in  its  strength,  were  only  to  be  approach- 
ed with  caution,  since  as  they  dropped  down  at  the  rate  of  five 
or  six  miles  an  hour,  and  were  perfectly  unmanageable,  they 
would,  if  they  had  struck  her,  have  swamped  our  little  boat  in  an 
instant.  There  was  one,  however,  which  we  could  board  with- 
out difficulty,  but  this  was  a washerman’s  boat,  and  our  passenger 
again  objected.  This  second  scruple  excited  such  a burst  of 
laughter  from  the  Mussulman  dandees,  that  the  soldier  blushed  up 
to  the  eyes  as  soon  as  he  had  made  it,  and  begged  pardon  of  me, 
saying,  “ the  boat  would  do  very  well;”  then  jumping  on  board 
with  another  military  salam,  he  left  us  to  proceed  with  more  ra- 
pidity when  freed  from  his  weight.  The  towers  of  Dacca  were 
already  in  sight,  at  least  the  dandees  could  see  them  at  the  end  of 
a reach  of  water,  perhaps  twelve  miles  in  length,  along  which  we 
sped  merrily.  As  we  drew  nearer,  I was  surprised  at  the  extent 
of  the  place,  and  the  stateliness  of  the  ruins,  of  which,  indeed,  the 
city  seemed  chiefly  to  consist.  Besides  some  huge  dark  masses 
of  castle  and  tower,  the  original  destination  of  which  could  not 
be  mistaken,  and  which  were  now  overgrown  with  ivy  andpeepul 
trees,  as  well  as  some  old  mosques  and  pagodas,  of  apparently  the 
same  date,  there  were  some  large  and  handsome  buildings,  which. 


ARRIVAL  AT  DACCA. 


141 


at  a distance,  bid  fair  to  offer  us  a better  reception,  and  towards 
which  I,  in  the  first  instance,  proposed  to  direct  our  course, 
knowing  the  difficulty  Vhich  we  should  have,  if  we  passed  them,, 
in  returning  against  the  stream.  The  boatmen  said,  they  did  not 
think  the  “ Sahib  Log”  lived  in  that  part  of  the  town,  hut  were 
not  sure,  and  the  appearance  of  a spire,  which,  as  it  seemed  to 
mark  the  site  of  the  church,  confirmed  me  in  my  resolution  of 
bearing  off  to  the  left.  As  we  approached,  however,  we  found 
these  buildings  also,  (though  of  more  recent  date  than  Shah 
Jehanguire,  and  many  of  them  of  Grecian  architecture,)  as 
ruinous  as  the  rest,  while  the  spire  turned  out  to  be  a Hindoo 
obelisk.  While  we  were  approaching  the  shore,  at  the  distance 
of  about  half  a mile  from  these  desolate  palaces,  a sound  struck 
my  ear,  as  if  from  the  water  itself,  on  which  we  were  riding,  the 
most  solemn  and  singular  I can  conceive.  It  was  long,  loud, 
deep,  and  tremulous,  something  between  the  bellowing  of  a bull 
and  the  blowing  of  a whale,  or  perhaps  most  like  those  roaring 
buoys  which  are  placed  at  the  mouths  of  some  English  harbours, 
in  which  the  winds  make  a noise,  to  warn  ships  off  them.  “ Oh,” 
said  Abdullah,  “ there  are  elephants  bathing ; Dacca  much  place 
for  elephant.”  I looked  immediately,  and  saw  about  twenty  of 
these  fine  animals,  with  their  heads  and  trunks  just  appearing 
above  the  water.  Their  bellowing  it  was  which  I had  heard, 
and  which  the  water  conveyed  to  us  with  a finer  effect  than  if 
we  had  been  ashore.  Another  mile  or  thereabouts  of  rowing 
brought  us  to  some  buildings  of  a more  habitable  description, 
and  pretty  much  like  those  of  Calcutta.  One  of  these,  close  to 
the  water’s  edge,  was  pointed  out  to  me  as  Mr.  Master’s,  wffio 
was  himself  in  the  court  of  justice,  but  whose  servants,  though 
surprised  to  see  the  style  in  which  I arrived,  had  an  excellent 
bed-room  for  me,  with  every  thing  ready  for  bathing  and 
dressing.  I found  myself  in  no  respect  the  worse  for  my 
boating,  except  that  my  face  was  a little  burnt,  in  spite  of  my 
chahtah,  by  the  reflection  of  the  water,  while  my  shins  (which 
had  been  exposed  to  the  sun,  owing  to  my  trowsers  slipping  up 
in  the  uncomfortable  situation  in  which  I was  compelled  to  sit) 
were  scorched  as  if  I had  laid  them  before  a great  fire.  These  I 
washed  in  milk,  which  relieved  them  a good  deal.  Mr.  Master, 
when  he  returned,  said  that,  though  I had,  perhaps,  done  a rash 
thing  in  coming  through  the  sun,  yet  certainly  I took  the  only 
means  of  arriving  in  time  for  church.  He  said  that  he  would 
send  a guard-boat  to  help  the  pinnace  on,  but  that  she  could  not 
possibly  get  to  Dacca  under  twenty -four  hours.  For  my  part, 
except  my  shins,  I never  felt  better. 


142 


CHAPTER  VII. 

DACCA. 

RUINS VISIT  FROM  THE  NAWAB VISIT  RETURNED DEATH  OF  MR. 

STOWE CONSECRATION  OF  CHURCH,  AND  BURIAL-GROUND CONFIR- 
MATION  ARMENIAN  ARCHBISHOP FAREWELL  VISIT  TO  NAWAB 

MEER  ISRAF  ALI.  _ 

July  4. — 1 preached  to  a small  congregation,  in  a very  small 
but  pretty  Gothic  Church.  Mr.  Parish  read  prayers,  and  gave 
notice  of  the  Consecration  and  Confirmation  for  the  Wednesday 
and  Friday  ensuing.  About  4 o’clock  the  pinnace  arrived,  but 
Stowe,  to  my  great  concern,  sent  word  that  he  was  too  ill  to  leave 
it,  having  had  a very  severe  relapse  of  dysentery.  I took  Mr. 
Todd,  the  surgeon  of  the  station,  to  him,  who  pressed  his  making 
the  attempt  for  the  sake  of  a more  airy  apartment  than  his  cabin, 
and  in  an  hour’s  time,  the  wind  having  abated,  he  got  into  Mr. 
Master’s  house  and  to  bed,  I hope  not  the  worse  for  the  exertion. 
Nothing  can  exceed  Mr.  Master’s  kindness  to  us  both,  but  I am 
sorry  to  say,  he  is  himself  by  no  means  in  good  health. 

The  river  on  which  Dacca  stands,  has  greatly  altered  its  cha- 
racter since  Rennell  drew  his  map.  It  was  then  narrow,  but  is 
now,  even  during  the  dry  season,  not  much  less  than  the  Hooghly 
at  Calcutta.  At  present  it  is  somewhat  wider,  but  from  the  upper 
windows  of  Mr.  Master’s  house,  the  opposite  bank  may  be  seen 
also  in  a great  degree  flooded;  and  though  the  green  rice  rising 
with  the  water,  gives  it  no  other  appearance  than  that  of  a 
swampy  meadow,  small  boats  are  seen  every  where  paddling  about 
amid  the  crop,  which  yields  them  way  without  difficulty. 

Dacca,  Mr.  Master  says,  is,  as  I supposed,  merely  the  wreck 
of  its  ancient  grandeur.  Its  trade  is  reduced  to  the  sixtieth  part 
of  what  it  was,  and  all  its  splendid  buildings,  the  castle  of  its 
founder  Shahjehanguire,  the  noble  mosque  he  built,  the  palaces 
of  the  ancient  Nawabs,  the  factories  and  churches  of  the  Dutch, 
French,  and  Portuguese  nations,  are  all  sunk  into  ruin,  and  over- 
grown with  jungle.  Mr.  Master  has  himself  been  present  at  a 
tiger  hunt  in  the  court  of  the  old  palace,  during  which  the  elephant 
of  one  of  his  friends  fell  into  a well,  overgrown  with  weeds  and 
bushes.  The  cotton  produced  in  this  district  is  mostly  sent  to 
England  raw,  and  the  manufactures  of  England  are  preferred  by 
the  people  of  Dacca  themselves  for  their  cheapness.  There  are 


CHITTAGONG. 


143 


still  a few  Armenians  resident  in  the  town,  some  of  them  wealthy, 
with  a church,  and  two  priests.  Their  Archbishop,  who  makes 
once  in  four  or  five  years  a journey  from  Nakitchwan  to  India,  is 
now  in  the  place,  on  the  same  errand  with  me.  There  are  also 
a few  Portuguese,  very  poor  and  degraded.  Of  Greeks  tl\e 
number  is  considerable,  and  they  are  described  as  an  industrious 
and  intelligent  people,  mixing  more  with  the  English  than  the 
rest,  and  filling  many  of  the  subaltern  situations  under  govern- 
ment. The  clerk  at  the  English  Church  (it  happens  singularly 
enough)  is  a Greek,  and  the  Greek  Priest  has  sent  to  request 
permission  to  call  on  me.  Of  English  there  are  none,  except  a 
few  indigo  planters  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  those  in  the  civil 
or  military  service.  But  the  Hindoo  and  Mohammedan  popula- 
tion, Mr.  Master  still  rates  at  300,000,  certainly  no  immoderate 
calculation,  since,  as  he  says,  he  has  ascertained  that  there  are 
above  90,000  houses  and  huts.  The  climate  of  Dacca,  Mr.  Mas- 
ter reckons  one  of  the  mildest  in  India,  the  heat  being  always 
tempered  by  the  vast  rivers  flowing  near  it,  and  the  rapidity  of 
their  streams  discharging  the  putrid  matter  of  the  annual  inunda- 
tion more  rapidly  than  is  ever  the  case  in  the  Hooghly.  The 
neighbourhood  affords  only  one  short  ride  at  this  season,  and  not 
many  even  when  the  ground  is  dry,  being  much  intersected  by 
small  rivers,  and  some  large  and  impenetrable  jungles  coming 
pretty  close  to  the  north-east  of  the  town.  Boating  is  popular, 
and  they  make  boats  very  well  here.  Indeed  I cannot  conceive 
a situation  which  more  naturally  would  lead  men  to  take  delight 
in  sailing.  No  vessels,  however,  larger  than  the  small  country 
built  brigs  ever  come  to  Dacca;  during  the  rains,  ships  of  any 
moderate  burden  might  do  so,  but  it  would  be  attended  with 
some  risk,  and  the  inducements  to  enter  this  branch  of  the  Ganges 
are  not  sufficient  to  encourage  men  to  endanger  their  vessels  or 
themselves,  though  as  far  as  Luckipoor  small  European  craft 
have  been  known  to  come.  The  majority  prefer  Chittagong, 
though  even  this  last  has  a harbour  little  adapted  for  vessels  of 
burthen. 

Of  Chittagong  I learnt  many  interesting  particulars.  The 
town  of  Islamabad  itself  is  not  large,  and  the  English  society  is 
still  smaller  than  at  Dacca.  The  country  round  is  pretty  and 
romantic,  consisting  of  a number  of  little  round  steep  hills  cover- 
ed with  verdure,  coffee,  pepper,  vines,  and  bamboos,  on  the 
summits  of  which  the  villas  of  the  English  are  generally  placed. 
These  are  not  very  accessible,  the  roads  being  often  too  steep 
and  stony  to  admit  of  carriages  or  horses,  and  the  usual  method 
of  visiting  being  in  tonjons,  and  even  these,  no  bearers  but  the 
practised  ones  of  Chittagong  would  be  able  to  carry  in  such  a 
country.  At  some  distance  from  the  coast  are  mountains  which 


144 


NAWAB  SHUMSHEDDOWLAH. 


divide  this  territory  from  that  of  the  Burmese,  and  are  covered 
by  almost  impenetrable  woods  and  thickets.  The  climate,  Mr. 
Master  thinks,  has  been  over-praised.  It  is  certainly  cooler 
during  the  hot  months  than  Calcutta,  but  not  than  Dacca,  while 
during  the  rainy  season  and  the  winter,  it  is  exceedingly  raw, 
aguish,  and  asthmatic,  being  subject  to  continual  and  very  offensive 
fogs,  from  the  quantity  of  uncleared  land,  and  the  neighbouring 
mountains.  But  little  has  been  attempted  at  Dacca  or  Chitta- 
gong for  the  conversion  of  the  natives,  and  that  little  has  had 
very  small  success.  At  the  former  place  is  a Baptist  minister, 
who  is  described  as  a very  good  and  diligent  man,  and  has  suc- 
ceeded in  establishing  one  Christian  school  (but  among  the  Por- 
tuguese and  Greek  children),  and  some  few  Bengalee  schools  for 
the  natives.  Blit  in  these  last  he  has  either  not  ventured  to 
introduce  the  New  Testament,  or  has  failed  in  doing  so ; a result 
so  different  from  what  has  been  the  case  in  every  other  part  of 
India,  that  I suspect  some  want  of  address  at  least  in  the  instructor. 
He  appears,  however,  to  have  received  considerable  encourage- 
ment from  the  English  families,  and  1 apprehend  that  a Church 
Missionary  establishment  of  the  same  sort,  would  find  the  situation 
by  no  means  a bad  one. 

July  5. — To-day  I had  visits  from  most  of  the  civil  and  military 
functionaries  of  Dacca.  I had  also  a visit  from  Mr.  Lee,  a sort 
of  secretary  to  his  highness  the  Nawab  Shumsheddowlah,  to 
congratulate  me  on  my  arrival,  and  to  appoint  a day  for  his 
calling  on  me.  This  potentate  is  now,  of  course,  shorn  of  all 
political  power,  and  is  not  even  allowed  the  state  palanquin, 
which  his  brother  (whose  heir  he  is)  had,  and  which  his  neigh- 
bour the  Nawab  of  Moorshedabad  still  retains.  He  has,  however, 
an  allowance  of  10,000  s.  rupees  per  month,  is  permitted  to  keep 
a court,  with  guards,  and  is  styled  “ highness.”  The  palanquin, 
indeed,  was  a distinction  to  which  his  brother  had  no  very 
authentic  claim,  and  which  this  man  could  hardly  expect,  having 
been  very  leniently  dealt  with  in  being  allowed  the  succession 
at  all.  He  had  in  his  youth  been  a bad  subject,  had  quarrelled 
with  government  and  his  own  family,  and  been  concerned  in  the 
bloody  conspiracy  of  Vizier  Ali.  For  his  share  in  this,  he  was 
many  years  imprisoned  in  Calcutta,  during  which  time  he  acquired 
a better  knowledge  of  the  English  language  and  literature  than 
most  of  his  countrymen  possess.  He  speaks  and  writes  English 
very  tolerably,  and  even  fancies  himself  a critic  in  Shakspeare. 
He  has  been  really  a man,  Mr.  Master  tells  me,  of  vigorous  and 
curious  mind,  who,  had  his  talents  enjoyed  a proper  vent,  might 
have  distinguished  himself.  But  he  is  now  growing  old,  infirm, 
and  indolent,  more  and  more  addicted  to  the  listless  indulgences 
of  an  Asiatic  prince ; pomp,  so  far  as  he  caif  afford  it,  dancing 


DACCA. 


145 


girls,  and  opiam,  having  in  fact  scarce  any  society  but  that  of 
his  inferiors,  and  being  divested  of  any  of  the  usual  motives  by 
which  even  Asiatic  princes  are  occasionally  roused  to  exertion. 
To  such  a man  a strong  religious  feeling  would  (even  as  far  as 
this  world  is  concerned)  be  an  inestimable  treasure.  But  to 
inspire  Shumsheddowlah  with  such  a feeling,  there  are,  alas ! few 
if  any  facilities. 

Government  has  seldom  more  than  five  companies  of  infantry 
at  Dacca  ; but  this  number  is  now  doubled,  and  they  have  also 
sent  a small  flotilla  of  gun-vessels,  which  are  said  to  be  on  their 
way.  Had  the  Burmese  really  possessed  any  considerable  force 
of  war-boats  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Teak  Naaf,  Dacca  might 
easily  have  fallen  their  prey ; and  the  alarm  excited  lately  was 
very  great,  and  with  some  better  reason  than  I had  supposed. 
Among  other  objects  of  fear  and  suspicion  was  the  poor  old 
Nawab,  whom  the  English  suspected  of  plotting  against  them, 
and  sending  information  to  the  Burmese.  That  the  Nawab 
would  not  weep  his  eyes  out  for  any  reverses  of  the  British  army, 
is,  indeed,  probable.  But  as  to  intelligence,  he  had  none  to  send 
which  was  worth  the  carriage,  and  was  so  far  from  contemplating 
the  approach  of  the  Burmese  with  indifference,  that  he  had  taken 
means  for  removing  his  family  as  soon  as  possible,  in  case  of 
serious  alarm,  while  he  himself  requested  leave  to  attach  himself 
to  Mr.  Master,  to  remain  or  go,  whenever  and  wherever  he  might 
think  proper. 

Dacca,  as  Abdullah  truly  said,  is  “ much  place  for  elephant.” 
The  Company  have  a stud  of  from  2 to  300,  numbers  being 
caught  annually  in  the  neighbouring  woods  of  Tiperah  and 
Cachar,  which  are  broken  in  for  service  here,  as  well  as  gradually 
inured  to  the  habits  which  they  must  acquire  in  a state  of  cap- 
tivity. Those  which  are  intended  for  the  Upper  Provinces, 
remain  here  some  time,  and  are  by  degrees  removed  to  Moor- 
shedabad,  Bogwangolah,  Dinapoor,  &c.  since  the  transition  of 
climate  from  this  place  to  Meerut,  or  even  Cawnpoor,  is  too 
great,  and  when  sudden,  destroys  numbers.  I drove  in  the  even- 
ing, with  Mr.  Master,  through  the  city  and  part  of  the  neighbour- 
hood. The  former  is  very  like  the  worst  part  of  Calcutta  near 
Chitpoor,  but  has  some  really  fine  ruins  intermingled  with  the 
mean  huts  which  cover  three-fourths  of  its  space.  The  castle 
which  I noticed,  and  which  used  to  be  the  palace,  is  of  brick, 
yet  showing  some  traces  of  the  plaster  which  has  covered  it. 
The  architecture  is  precisely  that  of  the  Kremlin  of  Moscow,  of 
which  city,  indeed,  I was  repeatedly  reminded  in  my  progress 
through  the  town.  The  Grecian  houses,  whose  ruined  condition 
I have  noticed,  were  the  more  modern  and  favourite  residence 
of  the  late  Nawab,  and  were  ruined  a few  years  since  by  the 

VoL..  I. — 19 


DACCA. 


146 

encroachments  of  the  river.  The  obelisk,  or  “ Mut,”  which  I 
saw,  was  erected  as  an  act  of  piety  very  frequent  in  India,  by  a 
Hindoo,  who  about  25  years  ago  accumulated  a large  fortune  in 
the  service  of  the  East  India  Company.  Another  mut  of  an 
almost  similar  form  was  pointed  out  to  me  a little  way  out  of  the 
town.  The  pagodas,  however,  of  Dacca,  are  few  and  small, 
three-fourths  of  the  population  being  Mussulmans,  and  almost 
every  brick  building  in  the  place  having  its  Persian  or  Arabic 
inscription.  Most  of  these  look  very  old,  but  none  are  of  great 
antiquity.  Even  the  old  palace  was  built  only  about  200  years 
ago,  and  consequently  is  scarcely  older  than  the  banqueting- 
house  at  Whitehall.  The  European  houses  are  mostly  small  and 
poor,  compared  with  those  of  Calcutta ; and  such  as  are  out  of 
the  town,  are  so  surrounded  with  jungle  and  ruins,  as  to  give  the 
idea  of  desolation  and  unhealthiness.  No  cultivation  was  visible 
so  far  as  we  went,  nor  any  place  cleared  except  an  area  of 
about  twenty  acres  for  the  new  military  lines.  The  drive  was 
picturesque,  however,  in  no  common  degree ; several  of  the 
ruins  were  fine,  and  there  are  some  noble  peepul  trees.  The 
Nawab’s  carriage  passed  us,  an  old  landau,  drawn  by  four  horses, 
with  a coachman  and  postilion  in  red  liveries,  and  some  horse- 
guards  in  red  also,  with  high  ugly  caps,  like  those  of  the  old 
grenadiers,  with  gilt  plates  in  front,  and  very  ill  mounted.  The 
great  men  of  India  evidently  lose  in  point  of  effect,  by  an  inju- 
dicious and  imperfect  adoption  of  European  fashions.  An  eastern 
cavalier  with  his  turban  and  flowing  robes,  is  a striking  object ; 
and  an  eastern  prince  on  horseback,  and  attended  by  his  usual 
train  of  white-staved  and  high-capped  janizaries,  a still  more 
noble  one ; but  an  eastern  prince  in  a shabby  carriage,  guarded 
by  men  dressed  like  an  equestrian  troop  at  a fair,  is  nothing  more 
than  ridiculous  and  melancholy.  It  is,  however,  but  natural,  that 
these  unfortunate  sovereigns  should  imitate,  as  far  as  they  can, 
those  costumes  which  the  example  of  their  conquerors  has  asso- 
ciated with  their  most  recent  ideas  of  power  and  splendour. 
Stowe  has  been  very  ill  ever  since  he  arrived  here ; to-day  he  is 
better,  but  still  so  unwell  as  to  make  me  give  up  all  idea  of  leaving 
Dacca  this  week. 

I met  a lady  to-day  who  had  been  several  years  at  Nusseerabad 
in  Rajpotana,  and  during  seven  years  of  her  stay  in  India,  had 
never  seen  a clergyman,  or  had  an  opportunity  of  going  to  church. 
This  was,  however,  a less  tedious  excommunication  than  has 
been  the  lot  of  a very  good  and  religious  man,  resident  at  Tipe- 
rah,  or  somewhere  in  that  neighbourhood,  who  was  for  nineteen 
years  together  the  only  Christian  within  seventy  miles,  and  at 
least  300  from  any  place  of  worship.  Occasionally  he  has  gone 
to  receive  the  sacrament  at  Chittagong,  about  as  far  from  his 


VISIT  OF  THE  NAWAB. 


147 


residence  as  York  from  London.  These  are  sad  stories,  and 
in  the  case  of  Nusseerabad,  I hope,  not  beyond  the  reach  of  a 
remedy. 

July  6. — The  Nawab  called  this  morning  according  to  his  pro- 
mise, accompanied  by  his  eldest  son.  He  is  a good  looking 
elderly  man,  of  so  fair  a complexion  as  to  prove  the  care  with 
which  the  descendants  of  the  Mussulman  conquerors  have  kept 
up  their  northern  blood.  His  hands,  more  particularly,  are  nearly 
as  white  as  those  of  an  European.  He  sat  for  a good  while 
smoking  his  hookah,  and  conversing  fluently  enough  in  English, 
quoting  some  English  books  of  history,  and  showing  himself  very 
tolerably  acquainted  with  the  events  of  the  Spanish  war,  and  the 
part  bore  in  it  by  Sir  Edward  Paget.  His  son  is  a man  of  about 
30,  of  a darker  complexion,  and  education  more  neglected,  being 
unable  to  converse  in  English.  The  Nawab  told  us  of  a tine  wild 
elephant,  which  his  people  were  then  in  pursuit  of,  within  a few 
miles  of  Dacca.  He  said  that  they  did  not  often  come  so  near. 
He  cautioned  me  against  going  amongst  the  ruins,  except  on  an 
elephant,  since  tigers  sometimes,  and  snakes  always,  abounded 
there.  He  asked  me  several  pertinent  questions  as  to  the  intended 
extent  and  object  of  my  journey,  and  talked  about  the  Greek 
priest,  who,  he  said,  wished  to  be  introduced  to  me,  and  w^hom  he 
praised  as  a very  worthy,  well-informed  man.  I asked  him  about 
the  antiquities  of  Dacca,  which  he  said  were  not  very  old,  the 
city  itself  being  a comparatively  recent  Mussulman  foundation. 
He  was  dressed  in  plain  white  muslin,  with  a small  gold  tassel 
attached  to  his  turban.  His  son  had  a turban  of  purple  silk, 
ribbed  with  gold,  with  some  jewels  in  it.  Both  had  splendid 
diamond  rings.  I took  good  care  to  call  the  father  “ his  high- 
ness,” a distinction  of  which  Mr.  Master  had  warned  me  that  he 
was  jealous,  and  which  he  himself,  I observed,  was  very  careful 
always  to  pay  him.  At  length  pawn  and  attar  of  roses  were 
brought  to  me,  and  I rose  to  give  them  to  the  visiters.  The  Na- 
wab smiled,  and  said,  “ what,  has  your  Lordship  learned  our  cus- 
toms ?”  Our  guests  then  rose,  and  Mr.  Master  gave  his  arm  to 
the  Nawab  to  lead  him  down  stairs.  The  staircase  was  lined 
with  attendants  with  silver  sticks,  and  the  horse-guards,  as  before, 
were  round  the  carriage  ; this  was  evidently  second-hand,  having 
the  arms  of  its  former  proprietor  still  on  thepannel,  and  the  whole 
show  was  any  thing  but  splendid.  The  Company’s  sepoys  were 
turned  out  to  present  arms,  and  the  Nawab’s  own  followers 
raised  a singular  sort  of  acclamation  as  he  got  into  his  carriage, 
reckoning  up  the  titles  of  his  family,  “ Lion  of  War  !”  “ Prudent 
in  Counsel !”  “ High  and  Mighty  Prince,”  &c.  &c.  But  the 
thing  was  done  with  little  spirit,  and  more  like  the  proclamations 
of  a crier  in  an  English  court  of  justice,  than  a ceremony  in  which 


14B 


VISIT  OF  THE  NAWAB. 


any  person  took  an  interest.  1 was,  however,  gratified  through^ 
out  the  scene  by  seeing  the  humane  (for  it  was  even  more  than 
good  natured)  respect,  deference,  and  kindness,  which  in  every 
word  and  action  Mr.  Master  showed  to  this  poor  humbled  poten- 
tate. It  could  not  have  been  greater,  or  in  better  taste,  had  its 
object  been  an  English  prince  of  the  blood. 

July  8. — Stowe,  w^ho  has  had  a relapse,  is  rather  better  this 
morning,  but  his  situation  is  very  uncomfortable.  There  is  no 
probability  of  his  being  able  to  go  with  me  up  the  country,  or  to 
leave  Dacca,  perhaps  for  many  weeks.  This  is  very  distressing. 
To  delay  my  departure  so  long  will  be  to  endanger  the  whole 
prospect  of  effecting  my  arrival  at  Cawnpoor  during  the  rains  ; or 
possibly  of  performing  at  all,  during  the  present  year,  the  visita- 
tion, on  which,  for  so  many  reasons,  I have  set  my  heart,  and  for 
which  1 have  already  given  up  so  much.  The  prospect  of  being 
so  long  burdensome  to  Mr.  Master  is  not  agreeable.  Nor,  though 
this  is  a minor  consideration,  can  I look  forwards  without  annoy- 
ance to  so  large  a pecuniary  sacrifice  as  is  involved  in  abandoning 
a voyage  which  I have  already  paid  for,  and  have  by  so  doing 
largely  anticipated  the  allowance  made  by  Government,  and 
which  I can  only  expect  to  receive  if  1 persevere  in  my  journey. 
On  the  other  hand,  I will  not  leave  my  friend  so  long  as  he  is  in 
danger,  or  till  I see  him  in  a really  convalescent  state. 

In  the  afternoon  I accompanied  Mr.  Master  to  pay  a visit  to 
the  Nawab,  according  to  appointment.  We  drove  a considerable 
way  through  the  city,  then  along  a shabby  avenue  of  trees  inter- 
mingled with  huts,  then  through  an  old  brick  gateway  into  a sort 
of  wild  looking  close,  with  a large  tree  and  some  bushes  in  the 
centre,  and  ruinous  buildings  all  round.  Here  was  a company 
of  sepoys,  drawn  up  to  receive  us,  very  neatly  dressed  and  drilled, 
being  in  fact  a detachment  of  the  Company’s  local  regiment,  and 
assigned  to  the  Nawab  as  a guard  of  honour.  In  front  was  ano- 
ther and  really  handsome  gateway,  with  an  open  gallery,  where 
the  “ Nobut,”  or  evening  martial  music,  is  performed,  a mark  of 
sovereign  dignity,  to  which  the  Nawab  never  had  a just  claim, 
but  in  which  Government  continue  to  indulge  him.  Here  were 
the  Nawab ’s  own  guard,  in  their  absurd  coats  and  caps,  and  a 
crowd  of  folk  with  silver  sticks,  as  well  as  two  tonjons  and  chah- 
tahs,  to  convey  us  across  the  inner  court.  This  was  a little  larger 
than  the  small  quadrangle  at  All  Souls,  surrounded  with  low  and 
irregular,  but  not  inelegant  buildings,  kept  neatly,  and  all  white- 
washed. On  the  right  hand  was  a flight  of  steps  leading  to  a very 
handsome  hall,  an  octagon,  supported  by  gothic  arches,  with  a 
verandah  round  it,  and  with  high  gothic  windows  well  venitianed. 
The  octagon  was  fitted  up  with  a large  round  table  covered  with 
red  cloth,  mahogany  drawing-room  chairs,  two  large  and  hand- 


DEATH  OF  STOWE. 


149 


some  convex  mirrors,  which  showed  the  room  and  furniture  to 
considerable  advantage,  two  common  pier-glasses,  some  prints  of 
the  king,  the  emperor  Alexander,  lords  Wellesley  and  Hastings, 
and  the  duke  of  Wellington,  and  two  very  good  portraits,  by 
Chinnery,  of  the  Nawab  himself,  and  the  late  Nawab  his  brother. 
Nothing  was  gaudy,  but  all  extremely  respectable  and  noblemanly. 
The  Nawab,  his  son,  his  English  secretary,  and  the  Greek  priest 
whom  he  had  mentioned  to  me,  received  us  at  the  door,  and  he 
led  me  by  the  hand  to  the  upper  end  of  the  table.  We  sate  some 
time,  during  which  the  conversation  was  kept  up  better  than  1 
expected  ; and  I left  the  palace  a good  deal  impressed  with  the 
good  sense,  information,  and  pleasing  manners  of  our  host,  whose 
residence  considerably  surpassed  my  expectations,  and  whose 
court  had  nothing  paltry,  except  his  horse-guards  and  carriage. 
The  visit  ended  in  an  invitation  to  dinner,  but  without  fixing  a day. 

I said  I should  be  happy,  and  hinted  that  an  early  day  would  suit 
me  best.  So  that  it  does  not  delay  my  journey,  I shall  like  it  very 
well. 

Dacca  is  sometimes  visited  by  earthquakes,  though  not  very 
severe  ones.  Mr.  Master’s  house  was  much  shaken  last  year. 
The  general  run  of  European  houses  here  is  about  equal  to  the 
second  or  third  rate  of  those  in  Calcutta : the  rents  seem  nearly 
the  same.  Few  are  actually  on  the  river,  but  those  are  the  best, 
and  bear  the  highest  prices. 

July  22. — A long  interval  has  occurred,  during  which  1 have 
had  neither  time  nor  heart  to  continue  my  journal,  having  been 
closely  occupied  in  attending  the  sick  and  dying  bed  of  my  ex- 
cellent and  amiable  friend,  Stowe,  and  in  the  subsequent  neces- 
sary duties  of  taking  care  of  his  interment  and  property.  She  for 
whose  eyes  I write  these  pages,  wdll  gladly  spare  me  a repetition 
of  the  sad  story  of  his  decline,  death,  and  burial. 

I this  morning  left  Dacca,  after  a residence  of  eighteen  days, 
marked  by  great,  and,  to  me,  most  unusual  anxiety  and  sorrow ; 
but  during  which,  I,  as  well  as  my  poor  friend,  received  in  our 
affliction  a degree  of  hospitality,  attention,  affectionate  and  deli- 
cate kindness  from  the  civil  and  military  officers  attached  to  the 
station,  and  their  families,  and  most  of  all  from  our  excellent  host, 
Mr.  Master,  which  I shall  never  forget,  and  for  which,  I trust,  I 
shall  be  always  grateful. 

I do  not  recollect  any  thing  very  material  which  I saw  or 
heard  during  this  period,  having,  indeed,  been  pretty  closely 
confined  to  my  friend’s  sick  room.  On  Saturday,  the  9th,  I 
confirmed  about  twenty  persons,  all  adults,  and  almost  all  of  the 
higher  ranks.  On  the  following  Sunday  I consecrated  the  church. 
This  perhaps  ought,  in  strictness,  to  have  preceded  the  Confir- 
mation; but  the  inversion  afforded  the  catechumens  an  immediate 


15a 


CONSECRATION  OF  BURIAL  GROUND. 


opportunity  of  attending  the  Lord’s  supper,  of  which  they  all 
availed  themselves,  as  well,  I believe,  as  all  the  other  inhabitants 
of  the  station.  The  whole  number  of  communicants  was  34  or 
5,  and  I never  witnessed  a congregation  more  earnestly  attentive. 
On  this  occasion  poor  Stowe  was  to  have  preached,  but  that  duty 
now  devolved  on  me. 

In  the  evening  I consecrated  the  burial  ground ; a wild  and 
dismal  place,  surrounded  by  a high  wall,  with  an  old  Moorish 
gate-way,  at  the  distance  of  about  a mile  from  the  now  inhabited 
part  of  the  city,  but  surrounded  with  a wilderness  of  ruins  and 
jungle.  It  is,  however,  large  and  well  adapted  for  its  purpose, 
containing  but  few  tombs,  and  those  mostly  of  old  dates,  erected 
during  the  days  of  Dacca’s  commercial  prosperity,  and  while  the 
number  of  European  residents  was  more  considerable  than  it  is 
at  present.  One  was  pointed  out  to  me,  over  the  remains  of  a 
Mr.  Paget,  Chaplain  to  the  Company  in  July  1724.  I then  little 
thought  or  feared  how  strangely  the  centenary  anniversary  of  his 
interment  would  be  kept  up ! Some  of  the  tombs  are  very  hand- 
some ; one  more  particularly,  resembling  the  buildings  raised  over 
the  graves  of  Mussulman  saints,  has  a high  octagon  gothic  tower, 
with  a cupola  in  the  same  style,  and  eight  windows  with  elabo- 
rate tracery.  Within  are  three  slabs  over  as  many  bodies,  and 
the  old  Durwan  of  the  burial  ground  said,  it  was  the  tomb  of  a 
certain  “ Colombo  Sahib,  Company  ka  nuokur,”  Mr.  Colombo, 
servant  to  the  Company;  who  he  can  have  been  T know  not ; his 
name  does  not  sound  like  an  Englishman’s,  but  as  there  is  no 
inscription,  the  beadle’s  word  is  the  only  accessible  authority. 
Another  tomb  is  over  a Chinese  convert  to  Christianity  and  Pro- 
testantism, who  seems  to  have  resided  here  about  100  years  agoi 
The  remainder  are  of  various,  but  not  very  remote  date,  in  the 
usual  Anglo-Indian  style  of  obelisk  or  pyramid,  but  all  overgrown 
with  ivy,  and  the  destructive  peepul  tree.  Some  fine  elephants, 
with  their  mohouts,  were  browzing  on  the  trees  and  bushes  round 
the  wall,  and  amid  the  neighbouring  ruins.  Indian  cattle  occu- 
pied the  little  grassy  glades  which  intersected  what  would  else 
have  been  a trackless  forest,  and  the  whole  had  so  wild  and  cha- 
racteristic an  appearance,  that  I regretted  that  I had  no  time  to 
make  a drawing. 

One  evening  I drove  with  Mr.  Master  to  see  the  prisons.  The 
first  we  visited  was  a place  of  confinement  for  the  insane,  which 
the  humanity  of  Government  provides  in  every  district.  There 
were  altogether  a considerable  number,  the  curable  and  incurable, 
the  male  and  female,  separated  in  distinct  wards,  under  the  care 
of  the  surgeon  of  the  station  and  several  native  doctors.  The 
place  was  airy,  well  suited  to  the  climate,  and  the  prisoners 
seemed  well  treated,  though  when  1 praised  their  cleanliness,  Mr. 


THE  PRISON. 


151 


Master  observed,  that  he  feared  they  knew  we  were  coming. 
The  patients,  however,  when  asked  if  they  had  any  complaints, 
only  urged  (which  some  of  them  did  very  fluently)  that  they  were 
unjustly  confined,  and  could  prove  themselves  either  to  have  been 
never  mad,  or  now  to  be  quite  recovered.  Two  only  seemed 
dangerous,  and  were  kept  in  small  grated  cells,  though  several 
had  light  handcuffs  on.  One  of  these  talked  incessantly  with 
violent  gesticulations,  menacing  his  keepers  through  his  bars  ; the 
other  was  a gloomy  and  sullen  wretch,  stretched  out  on  his  mat, 
but  now  and  then  uttering  a few  low  words,  which  Mr.  Master 
said  were  bitter  curses.  The  first  was  a Brahmin  schoolmaster, 
and  had  murdered  his  brother ; the  second  was  in  a decent  rank 
of  society,  and  had  repeatedly  attempted  the  lives  of  his  wife  and 
children.  Melancholy  or  mere  fatuity  seemed  the  most  general 
characters  which  the  disease  assumed.  Mad  persons  may  be  sent 
hither  by  their  friends,  on  payment  of  a small  sum,  or,  if  poor,  by 
the  “ Daroga”  of  each  “ pergunnah,”  (the  superintendent  of  a 
district,)  whose  duty  it  is  to  apprehend  and  send  to  the  district 
asylum,  any  dangerous  or  disgusting  object  of  this  kind  who  may 
be  at  large. 

The  prison  was  very  well  arranged,  with  roomy  wards,  dry 
and  airy  apartments,  and  permission  given  once  a day  to  all  the 
prisoners  to  go  out  on  a large  plain,  within  a low  outer  wall,  to 
dress  their  victuals.  This  indulgence  indeed,  joined  to  the  low- 
ness of  even  the  main  wall,  makes  it  necessary  to  keep  them  all 
in  irons,  but  that  is,  in  this  climate,  a far  less  evil  than  a closer 
confinement,  or  the  increased  interruption  of  the  fresh  air.  The 
prisoners  complained  loudly  that  their  allowances  were  not  suf- 
ficient. Mr.  Master  told  me  that  the  present  dearth  of  rice  made 
them,  indeed,  far  less  than  they  used  to  be,  but  that  the  original 
scale  was  too  high,  and  more  than  a man  could  earn  by  labour. 
Some  Burmans  were  here,  and  the  only  persons  not  handcuffed 
(except  the  debtors).  They  had  been  taken  in  the  Company’s 
territory,  not  in  arms,  but  unable  to  give  any  good  account  of 
themselves,  and  therefore  supposed  to  be  spies.  They  seemed, 
however,  poor  simple  peasants,  and  Mr.  Master  said,  he  had  re- 
commended Government  to  discharge  them  since  in  truth,  there 
had  always  been  a little  smuggling  trade  on  the  Munnipoor  fron- 
tier for  salt  and  ivory,  and  these  men,  he  verily  believed,  had  no 
further  or  more  sinister  views.  They  were  middle-sized,  well 
made  men,  in  complexion  and  countenance  half-way  betw'een  the 
Indian  and  Chinese,  and  a good  deal  tattooed.  The  debtors  were 
numerous  and  very  miserable  objects.  So  long  as  they  continue 
here,  their  creditors  are  bound  to  make  them  the  same  allowance 
as  Government  makes  to  the  criminals,  but  a Hindoo  creditor, 
though  murmuring  grievously  at  this  expense,  is  generally  (Mr. 


162  ARMENIAN  ARCHBISHOP. 

Master  said,  and  Dr.  Carey  had  said  the  same  thing  before)  in- 
tensely cruel,  and  prefers  the  gratification  of  revenge,  even  to  that 
of  avarice.  Several  of  the  debtors  here  were  very  old  men,  and 
some  had  been  kept  many  years  in  prison. 

Another  evening  I went  in  a beautiful  boat  of  Mr.  Mitford’s  to 
the  “ Pagla  Pwll,”  or  Mad  Bridge,  a ruin  four  miles  below  Dacca, 
It  is  a very  beautiful  specimen  of  the  richest  Tudor  gothic,  but  I 
know  not  whether  it  is  strictly  to  be  called  an  Asiatic  building, 
for  the  boatmen  said  the  tradition  is,  that  it  was  built  by  a French- 
man. There  is  a very  fine  and  accurate  engraving  of  it  in  Sir 
Charles  D’Oyley’s  “ Ruins  of  Dacca.” 

I had  two  visits  during  the  week  from  the  Armenian  Archbishop 
of  Ecmiazin,  (near  what  they  call  Mount  Ararat,)  who,  attended 
by  one  of  the  suffragans  of  the  patriarch  of  Jerusalem,  is  making 
a visitation  of  all  the  different  churches  of  their  communion  in 
Persia  and  India.  The  Archbishop  has  every  appearance  of  a 
mild,  respectable,  intelligent  man,  and  he  of  Jerusalem  seems  a 
shrewd  fellow.  I was  anxious  to  be  civil  to  them  both,  but  they 
only  spoke  Turkish  and  their  own  tongue.  Fortunately  one  of 
their  Dacca  congregation  could  officiate  as  interpreter,  and  then 
we  got  on  famously,  by  the  help  of  my  Russian  acquaintance  and 
recollections.  They  were  both  well  acquainted  with  Georgia, 
and  Abraham,  of  Jerusalem,  had  been  at  Mosdok,  Nakitchevan, 
Kalomna,  and  Mosco.  1 was  able  to  do  them  some  trifling  ser- 
vices, and  we  parted  with  mutual  good  wishes. 

July  20. — I went  to  pay  my  farewell  visit  to  the  Nawab,  who 
had  been  really  more  than  civil.  Almost  every  day  during  the 
last  week,  he  had  sent  baskets  of  fruit,  dressed  dishes  and  pastry, 
some  (which  is  a common  eastern  compliment)  for  my  own  din- 
ner, others  with  a special  recommendation  for  my  sick  friend. 
All  the  return  I could  make,  and  it  was  one  which  I heartily  pray 
God  in  his  goodness  may  make  useful,  was  the  present  of  my  Hin- 
doostanee  prayer-book,  which,  being  splendidly  bound,  and  con- 
taining much  which  a Mussulman  would  not  dislike,  I cast  “ like 
bread  on  the  waters,”  though  I fear  on  a stormy  sea,  and  one 
turbid  with  gross  indulgences  and  prejudices.  Poor  old  man!  I 
should  rejoice  to  learn  that  he  had  sometimes  looked  into  its  pages. 
This  he  voluntarily  promised  to  do  in  his  last  visit,  and  as  we 
were  alone,  we  had  a good  deal  of  talk  about  politics  and  other 
things,  in  the  course  of  which  he  desired  I would  sometimes  write 
to  him.  He  then  said,  “ 1 am  not  going  to  offer  you  a valuable 
present,  but  only  trifles  which  are  here  common,  but  which  in 
Europe  would  be  curiosities.  This  muslin  I do  hope  you  will 
offer  in  my  name  to  your  lady,  and  instead  of  your  present  stick, 
now  that  you  are  lame,  (1  had  not  quite  recovered  the  effects  of 
the  sun  on  my  legs,)  that  you  will  walk  with  my  cane.”  Of  the 


VISIT  TO  MEER  ISRAF  ALL 


153 


former  I am  no  judge,  the  latter  is  very  pretty,  of  a solid  piece  of 
ivory,  beautifully  carved.  It  is  too  line  for  me  to  walk  with,  but 
I shall  always  value  it.  I was  received  and  dismissed  on  this,  as 
on  the  former  occasion,  with  presented  arms. 

I went  from  the  palace  to  the  house  of  Meer  Israf  Ali,  the  chief 
Mussulman  gentleman  in  this  district.  He  is  said  by  Mr.  Master 
to  have  been  both  extravagant  and  unfortunate,  and  therefore  to 
be  now  a good  deal  encumbered.  But  his  landed  property  still 
amounts  to  above  300,000  begahs,  and  his  family  is  one  of  the 
best  (as  a private  family)  in  India.  He  was  himself  absent  at  one 
of  his  other  houses.  But  his  two  eldest  sons  had  been  very  civil, 
and  had  expressed  a hope  that  I would  return  their  visit.  Be- 
sides which,  I was  not  sorry  to  see  the  inside  of  this  sort  of  building. 
Meer  Israf  Ali’s  house  is  built  round  a court-yard,  and  looks  very 
much  like  a dismantled  convent,  occupied  by  a corps  of  Uhlans. 
There  are  abundance  of  fine  horses,  crowds  of  shabby  looking 
servants,  in  showy  but  neglected  liveries,  and  on  the  whole  a sin- 
gular mixture  of  finery  and  carelessness.  The  two  young  men, 
and  a relation,  as  they  said  he  was,  who  seemed  to  act  as  their 
preceptor  and  as  their  father’s  man  of  business,  received  me  with 
some  surprise,  and  were  in  truth  marvellously  dirty,  and  unfit  to 
see  company.  They  were,  however,  apparently  flattered  and 
pleased,  and  showed  their  good  manners  in  offering  no  apologies, 
but  leading  me  up  a very  mean  stair  case  into  their  usual  sitting 
rooms,  which  were  both  better  in  themselves,  and  far  better 
furnished  than  I expected  from  the  appearance  of  things  below. 
After  the  few  first  compliments,  I had  recourse  to  Abdullah’s  in- 
terpretation, and  they  talked  very  naturally  and  rather  volubly 
about  the  fine  sport  their  father  would  show  me  the  next  time  I 
came  into  the  country,  he  having  noble  covers  for  tigers,  leopards, 
and  even  wild  elephants.  At  last  out  came  a wish  for  silver  sticks ! 
Their  father,  they  said,  was  not  in  the  habit  of  asking  favours 
from  Government,  but  it  was  a shame  that  the  baboos  of  Calcutta 
should  obtain  badges  of  nobility,  while  true  Seyuds^  descendants 
of  the  prophets,  whose  ancestors  had  never  known  what  trade 
was,  hut  had  won  with  their  swords  from  the  idolaters  the  lands 
for  which  they  now  paid  taxes  to  the  Company,  should  be  over- 
looked. I could  promise  them  no  help  here,  and  reminded  them 
that  an  old  family  was  always  respected,  whether  it  had  silver 
sticks  or  no,  and  that  an  upstart  was  only  laughed  at  for  decora- 
tions which  deceived  nobody.  “ Yes,”  said  the  younger,  “ but 
our  ancestors  used  to  have  silver  sticks,  and  we  have  got  them  in 
the  house  at  this  day.”  I said  if  they  could  prove  that,  I thought 
that  Government  would  be  favourable  to  their  request,  but  advised 
them  to  consult  Mr.  Master,  who  was  their  father’s  intimate  friend. 
We  then  parted,  after  their  bringing  pawn  and  rose  water  in  a very 
VoL.  1. — 20 


154 


VISIT  TO  MEER  ISRAF  ALL 


antique  and  elegantly  carved  bottle,  which  might  really  have  be- 
longed to  those  days  when  their  ancestors  smote  the  idolaters. 
Mr.  Master  afterwards  said,  that  if  the  Meer  himself  had  been  at 
home,  I never  should  have  been  plagued  with  such  topics ; that 
he  was  a thorough  gentleman,  and  a proud  one,  who  wished  for 
the  silver  sticks,  but  would  never  have  asked  the  interest  of  a 
stranger.  The  young  men  called  afterwards  to  see  me  to  my 
boat,  and  brought  me  some  toys  for  my  children,  and  a travelling 
cap  often  worn  by  Mussulmans  in  this  district. 


CHAPTER  VIIL 


DACCA  TO  FURREEDPOOR. 

INUNDATION GUN-BOAT  ATTACKED MUSSULMAN  FAKIR FURREED- 
POOR  SYSTEM  OF  ROBBERY DOMESTIC  HABITS  OF  HINDOOS 

EXTRACT  FROM  CALENDAR. 

Having  preserved  these  hasty  recollections  of  the  past  week,  1 
return  to  my  journey. 

Being  anxious  to  prevent  Miss  Stowe,  who  I feared  had,  on 
hearing  of  her  poor  brother’s  illness,  set  out  from  Calcutta  to 
join  him,  from  coming  to  Dacca,  I did  not  take  the  direct  northern 
course  by  the  great  Jeels,  but  sailed  eastward  across  the  Dela- 
serry  river  and  a wide  tract  of  flooded  country,  which  offered  a 
strange  and  dreary  spectacle,  from  the  manner  in  which  the 
wretched  villages  were  huddled  together  on  little  mounds  of  earth, 
just  raised  above  the  level  of  the  inundation,  while  all  the  rest  was 
covered  with  five  or  six  feet  water.  I thought  of  Gray’s  picture 
of  the  Egyptian  Delta,  whose  peasants 

“ On  their  frail  boats  to  neighbouring  cities  glide, 

Which  rise  and  glitter  o’er  the  amWent  tide.” 

But  these  villages  do  any  thing  but  glitter.  At  length  we  passed 
them  all,  and  entered  what  might  be  called  a sea  of  reeds.  It 
was,  in  fact,  a vast  jeel  or  marsh,  whose  tall  rushes  rise  above  the 
surface  of  the  water,  having  depth  enough  for  a very  large  vessel. 
We  sailed  briskly  on,  rustling  like  a greyhound  in  a field  of  corn  : 
while  in  one  place  where  the  reeds  were  thickest,  and  I tried  the 
depth  with  an  oar,  there  was,  I should  guess,  at  least  ten  feet 
water,  besides  whatever  else  there  might  be  of  quagmire. 

After  this  we  entered  a nullah,  with  rice  only  partially  flooded, 
and  a succession  of  woods  and  villages,  till  at  six  we  halted  for 
the  night,  in  a very  pleasant  spot,  near  a large  village,  named 
Nawab  Gunge.  1 should  have  enjoyed  my  little  walk,  if  my  re- 
collections would  have  allowed  me. 

July  23. — We  commenced  our  journey  this  morning  with  un- 
usual alertness,  but  ere  long  it  was  interrupted.  A sudden  turn 
of  the  river  exposed  us,  about  twelve  at  noon,  to  so  strong  a con- 
trary wind,  that  after  a few  trials  the  men  declared  they  could  not 
proceed,  and  begged  leave  to  get  their  dinner,  in  the  hope  that  the 
breeze  might  moderate.  I was  not  sorry  for  this  delay,  as  I hoped 


156 


GUN-BOAT  ATTACKED. 


to  receive  information  from  Dacca  which  might  set  me  at  liberty 
to  go  directly  northward,  but  letters  arrived  which  to  my  great 
sorrow  established  the  fact  that  Miss  Stowe  was  on  her  way  to 
Dacca,  and  made  it  adviseable  for  me  to  push  on  to  meet  her  as 
fast  as  possible.  I put,  therefore,  into  immediate  force  the  magic 
of  my  own  silver  sticks,  and  the  potent  talisman  of  brass  which 
adorned  the  girdle  of  the  Chuprassee  whom  Mr.  Master  had 
ordered  to  accompany  me  to  Hajygunge,  and  sent  to  the  jemaut- 
dar^  of  the  nearest  village  a requisition  for  twenty  men  to  drag 
my  boats,  with  the  information  at  the  same  time,  that  the  service 
would  not  be,  as  I fear  it  often  is  in  this  country,  gratuitous.  No 
sooner,  however,  were  the  messengers  seen  approaching,  than 
half  the  village,  fearing  that  it  was  some  Government  duty  which 
was  required,  were  seen  running  away  to  hide  themselves,  and  it 
was  not  till  the  jemautdar  had  gone  round  to  explain  matters  to 
some  of  their  wives,  that  any  tolerable  workmen  made  their  ap- 
pearance. At  last  the  prescribed  number  arrived,  and  we  began 
moving  with  tolerable  rapidity,  and  continued  advancing  prospe- 
rously till  nine  o’clock  at  night,  when  the  twenty  men  were  ex- 
tremely well  satisfied  with  two  rupees  among  them  ! and  willingly 
promised  to  attend  next  morning,  so  cheap  is  labour  in  this  part 
of  India.  An  event  has  occurred  on  the  Matabunga  since  we 
traversed  it,  which  shows  the  low  state  of  morality  among  the 
peasants  of  India,  and  how  soon  and  how  surely  a sudden  tempta- 
tion will  transform  the  most  peaceable  into  banditti.  A large 
boat  attached  to  the  gun-boats  which  arrived  the  other  day  at 
Dacca  from  Calcutta,  loaded  with  ammunition,  got  aground 
pretty  near  the  same  place  where  we  had  the  bank  cut  through. 
The  country  people  were  called  in  to  assist  in  getting  her  off,  very 
likely  from  the  same  village  whose  inhabitants  we  found  so  dili- 
gent and  serviceable.  The  ammunition,  however,  was  packed 
in  cases  resembling  those  in  which  treasure  is  usually  conveyed 
in  this  country,  and  in  consequence  as  is  supposed  of  this  mistake, 
the  boat,  being  by  the  accident  separated  from  the  fleet,  was 
attacked  the  following  night  by  (as  is  said)  near  three  hundred 
people,  armed  with  spears,  bamboos,  hoes,  and  whatever  else  a 
tumultuary  insurrection  usually  resorts  to.  They  were  repulsed 
by  the  sepoys  with  difficulty,  and  not  till  several  had  been  shot. 
The  affair  made  a great  noise  in  Dacca,  nothing  of  the  kind  hav- 
ing been  heard  of  for  many  years  in  that  neighbourhood.  A com- 
mission had  gone  to  the  spot  to  inquire  into  the  case  and  one  of 
the  small  neighbouring  Zemindars  was  said  to  be  in  custody.  Na- 
tives, Mr.  Master  said,  are  often  pillaged,  and  travel  always  in 

* This  appellation  is  variously  given  to  a house-servant,  the  chief  man  of  a 
village,  and  to  an  officer  in  the  army,  of  a rank  corresponding  to  a lieutenant.— Ed. 


MUSSULMAN  FAKIR. 


157 


more  or  less  danger.’  But  Deceits  seldom  venture  on  an  Euro- 
pean boat,  and  still  more  rarely  on  a vessel  in  the  Company’s 
service,  and  guarded  by  soldiers. 

In  the  course  of  our  halt  this  day  a singular  and  painfully  inte- 
resting character  presented  himself  in  the  person  of  a Mussulman 
Fakir,  a very  elegantly  formed  and  handsome  young  man,  of  good 
manners,  and  speaking  good  Hindoostanee,  but  with  insanity 
strongly  marked  in  his  eye  and  forehead.  He  was  very  nearly 
naked,  had  a white  handkerchief  tied  as  an  ornament  round  his 
left  arm,  a bright  yellow  rag  hanging  loosely  over  the  other,  a lit- 
tle cornelian  ornament  set  in  silver  round  his  neck,  a large  chaplet 
of  black  beads,  and  a little  wooden  cup  in  his  hand.  He  asked 
my  leave  to  sit  down  on  the  bank  to  watch  what  we  were  doing, 
and  said  it  gave  his  heart  pleasure  to  see  Englishmen  ; that  he 
was  a great  traveller,  had  been  in  Bombay,  Cabul,  &c.,  and 
wanted  to  see  all  the  world,  wherein  he  was  bound  to  wander  as 
long  as  it  lasted.  I offered  him  alms,  but  he  refused,  saying,  he 
never  took  money, — that  he  had  his  meal  that  day,  and  wanted 
nothing.  He  sate  talking  wildly  with  the  servants  a little  longer, 
when  1 again  told  Abdullah  to  ask  him  if  I could  do  any  thing  for 
him  ; he  jumped  up,  laughed,  said  “ No  pice  !”  then  made  a low 
obeisance,  and  ran  off,  singing,  “ La  lllah  ul  Allah  !”  His  man- 
ner and  appearance  nearly  answered  to  the  idea  of  the  Arab 
Mejnoun,  when  he  ran  wild  for  Leila. 

July  24. — 1 met  yesterday  evening  with  a severe  disappoint- 
ment. 1 had  left  Dacca  cheered  with  the  hope  that  my  wife,  who 
had  expressed  great  anxiety  to  accompany  me  in  the  event  of 
Stowe’s  illness  terminating  fatally,  would  be  able  to  join  me  with 
our  children  at  Boglipoor  ; but  I received  a letter  from  her,  for- 
warded by  Mr.  Master,  which  made  me  see  that  this  would  be 
impossible.  This  news,  added  to  the  uncomfortable  state  of  my 
mind  and  feelings,  kept  me  awake  great  part  of  the  night,  and  I 
arose  ill  and  unrefreshed. 

The  labourers  were  after  their  time,  and  the  wind  being  mode- 
rate, we  set  off  without  them.  They  overtook  us,  however,  in 
two  boats,  in  about  three  miles,  and  were  of  very  material  use 
in  helping  us  on  to  the  junction  of  this  stream  with  the  great 
Ganges.  Just  before  we  arrived  at  this  point  I saw  two  pinnaces 
in  the  offing.  In  the  hope  that  one  might  prove  to  be  Miss 
Stowe’s,  I immediately  brought  to,  and  sent  off  a letter  to  prepare 
her  for  the  sad  tidings  of  her  brother’s  death ; but  the  boats  be- 
longed to  another  party. 

We  now  proceeded  again  with  the  tow-line  : the  wind  was 
strongly  against  us,  the  stream  in  which  we  were  running  almost 
full  south,  but  the  additional  coolies  did  wonders  for  us.  Including 
the  crew,  there  were  no  less  than  twenty-eight  men  at  the  rope  of 


158 


FURREEDPOOR. 


my  pinnace,  and  eight  "to  each  of  the  other  boats.  About  half-past 
one  we  reached  the  place  where  our  stream  rejoined  the  Ganges, 
which  lay  before  us  with  its  vast  expanse  of  water. 

The  woods  near  Hajygunge  and  Furreedpoor  lay  like  a long 
dark  outline  on  the  horizon,  at  the  distance  of  about  twelves  miles, 
six  miles  being,  I should  guess,  pretty  nearly  the  width  of  the 
river.  There  dismissed  the  country  people,  hut  found  that 
though  the  wind  was  full  south,  it  was  still  not  over  and  above 
favourable,  since,  though  it  would  carry  us  up  the  river,  it  would 
effectually  prevent  our  making  Furreedpoor.  While  Moham- 
med, (the  Serang,)  and  Abdullah  were  consulting  as  to  what  was 
best  to  be  done,  I saw  a small  pinnace  creeping  slowly  towards 
us,  amid  the  long  reeds,  which  we  hailed ; and  as  soon  as  it  was 
ascertained  who  we  were,  a young  officer  jumped  into  the  dingy, 
and  paddled  up  towards  us,  whom  I soon  recognized  to  be  my  old 
shipmate  Gresley,  who  with  his  companion,  Lt.  P.,  dined  with  me. 
There  were  few  medical  applications  which  could  have  done  me 
so  much  good  as  a motive  for  an  extra  glass  of  wine,  and  the 
lively  conversation  of  two  young  men,  for  one  of  whom  I had  a 
sincere  regard.  We  parted  soon  after  four,  and  I had  a very  good 
sail  over  the  river,  and  might,  1 soon  found,  have  had  a better, 
had  not  Mohammed,  from  his  exceeding  terror  of  being  carried 
out  of  his  knowledge,  or  of  being  compelled  to  pass  anight  at  sea^ 
instead  of  fairly  sailing  straight  for  the  river  on  which  the  villages 
stand,  laboured  hard,  by  keeping  his  boat  as  near  the  wind  as 
her  construction  allowed,  to  make  the  opposite  bank  as  soon  as 
possible.  We  arrived  there  in  consequence  about  six  o’clock,  at 
least  eight  miles  to  the  S.  of  the  point  we  wished  for ; and,  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  a little  village  overhung  with  palms,  we 
made  fast  to  a green  meadow.  Our  people  had  learnt  caution 
by  the  recent  events  on  the  Matabunga,  and  Abdullah  came  to 
request  that  I would  give  orders  for  two  sentries  for  the  night. 

July  25. — I slept  well,  and  have  seldom  wakened  with  more 
reason  for  gratitude.  My  health,  which  had  been  for  some  time 
a good  deal  deranged,  appeared  renovated,  and  I felt  myself  ready 
to  adopt  any  line  of  conduct  which  circumstances  might  claim 
from  me. 

We  were  obliged  to  track  our  boat,  the  wind  having  fallen, 
and  it  was  10  o’clock  before  we  reached  the  Hajygunge  nullah. 
Before  we  had  advanced  far,  a boat  came  up  with  a letter  from 
Mr.  Warner,  the  magistrate  of  these  districts,  and  to  my  inexpres- 
sible delight  one  from  my  wife,  which  Mr.  Master  had  forwarded. 
Her  account  of  herself  was  comfortable,  but  I was  again  forcibly 
convinced  that  it  would  be  impossible  for  her  to  join  me  at  Bog- 
lipoor.  My  main  anxiety  therefore  was,  that  she  should  not  fret 
about  a separation  which  was  unavoidable,  and  that  she  should 


GANG  ROBBERY. 


159 


be  convinced  that  I am  likely  to  do  extremely  well,  and  travel 
very  safely  ; and  that,  though  now  alone,  I should  have  compa- 
nions the  greatest  part  of  the  way. 

Mr,  Warner  soon  after  called  on  me,  and  I accompanied  him 
to  his  house,  where  I found  a very  well  furnished  library.  At 
present  his  house  was  full  of  ladies,  fugitives  from  Chittagong  ; but, 
except  his  own  family  and  inmates,  he  had  no  society,  no  Euro- 
peans, not  even  a medical  man  being  within  very  many  miles. 
In  the  evening  we  walked  in  the  garden,  and  Mr.  Warner  point- 
ed out  one  tree  on  which  two  pelicans  never  failed  to  roost,  and 
another  which  had  an  eagle’s  nest.  Eagles  are,  he  said,  very 
common  on  all  these  rivers,  and  pelicans  by  no  means  rare,  and 
he  expressed  some  surprise  at  learning  how  few  of  either  I had 
seen  during  my  progress.  A beautiful  and  fragrant  purple  flower 
was  shown  me  as  the  jalap  plant.  Mr.  Warner  then  took  me 
a pleasant  drive  in  the  carriage,  and  I had  some  very  inte- 
resting conversation  with  him  ; on  our  return  to  the  hpuse  I read 
prayers  and  a sermon,  and  then  went  to  my  boat.  Onjthe  whole, 
between  the  hooks  1 found,  the  things  I saw,  and  the  people  I 
met  with,  I passed  a pleasant,  and  I trust  not  unprofitable  Sun- 
day. 

Mr.  Warner  told  me,  that  even  now  I was,  in  his  judgment, 
a fortnight  too  late  to  succeed  in  getting  up  to  Cawnpoor,  but 
that  to  Benares  1 might  do  very  well. 

Among  Mr.  Warner’s  books  1 found  in  a ^volume  of  the  Edin- 
burgh Annual  Register,  a dialogue  from  an  ancient  Arabic  MS.  in 
the  Bodleian,  translated  six  years  ago  by  Dr.  Nicol,  containing  a 
dispute  between  a Christian  monk  and  certain  leaimed  Mussul- 
mans, at  the  court  of  one  of  the  Seljuckian  Sultans,  which  I 
thought  so  clever,  and  so  evidently  authentic,  that  it  greatly 
delighted  me,  and  I borrowed  it  for  Abdullah,  as  more  likely  than 
most  things  which  I have  seen  to  do  him  good,  and  confirm  his 
faith  in  Christ.  The  original  Arabic  ought  by  all  means  to  be 
published,  if  it  is  not  already,  and  sent  out  for  circulation  in  the 
East  by  the  societies  interested  in  such  good  works.  I here  dis- 
missed the  police  boat  and  chuprassee  with  which  Mr.  Master 
had  furnished  me.  It  is  pleasing  to  see  how  popular  Mr.  Master 
is ; he  is  spoken  of  here  in  just  the  same  way  as  he  is  at  Dacca. 

Mr.  Warner  I find  had  not  heard  ^ word  of  the  alleged  attack 
on  the  Company’s  boats  on  these  waters.  Such  a thing  might, 
he  said,  have  occurred  in  the  Kishnagur  district  without  his  hear- 
ing of  it,  but  he  conceived  it  must  have  been  greatly  exaggerated. 
He  said  that  the  Indians  can  never  tell  a story  without  excessive 
falsification  one  way  or  the  other.  He  had  frequently  had  cases 
of  assault  brought  before  him,  in  which  the  plaintiff  at  first  stated 
that  he  had  been  attacked  and  nearly  killed  by  above  a hundred 


160 


HINDOO  PEASANTRY, 


men,  when  it  turned  out  that  he  had  received  a beating  from  one 
or  two  men,  twenty  or  thirty  others  being  possibly  present,  (as  in 
a village  or  market,)  but  taking  no  part  in  the  quarrel.  In  the 
same  way  if  a house  or  a boat  is  robbed,  the  complainant  gene- 
rally exaggerates  the  number  of  Decoits  to  any  multitude  which 
he  may  think  likely  to  excite  the  magistrate’s  attention  and  pity. 
Nevertheless  there  was,  he  said,  a great  deal  of  gang  robbery, 
very  nearly  resembling  the  riband-men  of  Ireland,  but  unmixed 
with  any  political  feeling,  in  all  these  provinces.  It  is  but  too 
frequent  for  from  five  to  ten  peasants  to  meet  together  as  soon  as 
it  is  dark  to  attack  some  neighbour’s  house,  and  not  only  plun- 
der, but  torture  him,  his  wife  and  children,  with  horrible  cruelty, 
to  make  him  discover  his  money.  These  robbers  in  the  day- 
time follow  peaceable  professions,  and  some  of  them  are  thriving 
men,  while  the  whole  firm  is  often  under  the  protection  of  a 
Zemindar,  who  shares  the  booty,  and  does  his  best  to  bring  off  any 
of  the  gang  who  may  fall  into  the  hands  of  justice,  by  suborning 
witnesses  to  prove  an  alibi,  bribing  the  inferior  agents  of  the  po- 
lice, or  intimidating  the  witnesses  for  the  prosecution.  In  this 
way  many  persons  are  suspected  of  these  practices,  who  yet  go 
on  many  years  in  tolerably  good  esteem  with  their  neighbours, 
and  completely  beyond  the  reach  of  a Government  which  requires 
proof  in  order  to  punish.  Mr.  Warner  thinks  the  evil  has 
increased  since  the  number  of  spirit  shops  has  spread  so  rapidly. 
At  present  these  places  bring  in  a very  considerable  revenue  to 
G overnment,  and  are  frequented  by  multitudes  both  of  the  Hindoo 
and  Mussulman  population.  They  are  generally,  however,  re- 
sorted to  at  night,  and  thus  the  drunkenness,  the  fierce  and  hate- 
ful passions  which  they  engender,  lead  naturally  to  those  results 
which  night  favours,  at  the  same  time  that  they  furnish  convenient 
places  of  meeting  for  all  men  who  may  be  banded  for  an  illicit 
purpose.  I asked  what  the  brahmin  said  to  this.  He  answered 
that  the  brahmins  themelves  w^ere  many  of  them  drunkards,  and 
some  of  them  Decoits,  and  that  he  thought  what  influence  they 
retained  was  less  for  good  or  moral  restraint,  than  evil.  Yet  he 
said  that  they  had  a good  deal  of  influence  still,  while  this  had 
been  quite  lost  by  the  Mussulman  Imams  and  Moulahs.  He 
spoke,  however,  favourably  of  the  general  character  of  the  peo- 
ple, who  are,  he  said,  gentle,  cheerful,  and  industrious,  these 
great  crimes  being,  though  unhappily  more  common  than  in  Eu- 
rope, yet  certainly  not  universal.  He  had  learned,  from  diflferent 
circumstances,  more  of  the  internal  economy  of  the  humbler 
Hindoo  families  than  many  Europeans  do,  and  had  formed  a favour- 
able opinion  of  their  domestic  habits  and  happiness.  As  there  is 
among  the  cottagers  no  seclusion  of  women,  both  sexes  sit  to- 
gether round  their  evening  lamps  in  very  cheerful  conversation. 


GAOL  CALENDAR. 


161 


and  employ  themselves  either  in  weaving,  spinning,  cookery  or 
in  playing  at  a kind  of  dominos.  He  says  it  is  untrue  that  the 
women  in  these  parts,  at  least,  are  ignorant  of  sewing,  spinning, 
or  embroidery,  inasmuch  as,  while  the  trade  of  Dacca  flourished, 
the  sprigs,  &c.  which  we  see  on  its  muslins,  were  very  often 
-the  work  of  female  hands.  This  is  a strange  and  blended  tissue 
of  human  life  and  human  character ! which  it  is  most  painful  to 
hear  of,  since  one  cannot  contemplate  the  evening  enjoyments  of 
a happy  and  virtuous  family,  such  as  is  described,  without  antici- 
pating the  possibility  of  their  cottage  being  made,  during  the 
night,  a scene  of  bloodshed,  torture,  and  massacre.  Y et,  alas  ! 
can  we  forget  that  in  all  these  respects,  India  is  too  like  Ireland  ! 

July  26. — Still  I had  no  news  of  Miss  Stowe,  and  I was  com- 
pelled to  remain  at  F urreedpoor.  1 am  sadly  weary  of  waiting ; 
and  the  worst  is,  I am  told  that  there  will  be  very  little  more  south 
wind  this  year ; if  so,  my  progress  will  be  slow  indeed.  I got  a 
very  pleasant  walk  this  morning,  without  feeling  tired,  and  break- 
fasted and  dined  with  the  Warners.  The  interval  between  break- 
fast and  dinner  1 spent  in  the  study,  partly  in  writing  letters,  and 
partly  in  looking  over  a curious  document  which  he  allowed  me 
to  see,  being  his  Gaol  Calendar,  as  to  be  returned  to  the  Circuit 
Judge.  His  “ Cutcherry,”  or  Court  of  Justice,  the  gaol,  and  a 
small  unoccupied  bungalow,  are  the  only  buildings,  besides  his 
own  house,  in  the  station.  The  huts  of  the  natives  are  in  no 
compact  village,  but  scattered  thinly  up  and  down  a large  and 
fertile  extent  of  orchard-garden  and  paddy-ground.  To  return, 
however,  to  the  Calendar.  So  far  as  the  present  quarter,  it 
stands  thus. 

Case  1,  Affray,  and  assault  on  a single  person,  by  fourteen  criminals. 

2,  One  man  charged  with  the  murder  of  his  fellow- workman  in  the  fields. 

3,  One  man  charged  with  forgery. 

4,  Five  with  house-breaking. 

5,  Two  charged  with  house-breaking. 

6,  Five  charged  with  affray  and  riot,  destroying  property,  &c.  [This  is 

connected  with  the  succeeding  case  of  forgery,  being  an  attempt,  un- 
der colour  of  a forged  instrument  first,  and  afterwards  by  violence,  to 
obtain  possession  of  an  indigo  work. — See  cases  14  and  19.] 

7,  Four  for  house-breaking  and  attempt  to  murder. 

8,  Three  for  house-breaking. 

9,  Five  for  child-stealing.  [In  this  case  one  of  the  accused  parties,  in 

whose  house  the  little  girl  was  found,  declared  in  his  own  justification, 
that  desiring  to  obtain  a wife  for  his  son,  (a  boy,)  he  had  given  some 
rupees  to  a neighbour,  (one  of  the  robbers,)  to  buy  one  ; that  the  said 
neighbour  brought  him  the  little  girl,  saying  she  was  his  niece,  and 
that  he  received  her  as  such.  But  there  was  little  doubt  that  this  was 
untrue,  and  that  the  design  of  the  whole  gang  was  to  sell  the  child  to 
some  person  at  a distance.] 

10,  Two  for  murder  by  poison,  administered  in  brandy. 

11,  Five  for  false  imprisonment  and  murder.  [A  man  was  seen  bound  and 

VoL.  I.— 21 


162 


GAOL  CALENDAR. 


dragged  along  by  the  five  prisoners, — was  taken  to  the  house  of  on« 
of  them,  and  there  confined  two  or  three  days,  and  beaten,  as  it  is 
said,  to  death.  They  plead  that  the  man  was  mad,  and  his  death 
occasioned  by  his  distemper.  It  appears,  however,  that  there  was 
previous  malice,  and  that  they  were  not  bound  to  take  care  of  him,  if 
he  had  been  mad.] 

Case  12,  Seven  for  house-breaking,  with  torture. 

13,  Three  for  homicide,  in  executing  an  arrest. 

14,  Seven  for  an  affray  and  riot  at  another  indigo  factory,  arising  out  of 

the  same  dispute  with  the  one  formerly  mentioned, 

15,  Four  for  piracy  and  attempt  to  murder. 

16,  One  for  murder,  by  striking  with  a bamboo. 

17,  Nine  for  an  attack  on  a dwelling-house,  plundering,  beating,  and  false 

imprisonment. 

18,  One  for  false  imprisonment,  assault,  and  compelling  the  plaintiff  to  sign 

a paper  containing  a false  deposition. 

19,  Seven  for  forgery  and  subornation  of  forgery.  See  cases  6 and  14. 

20,  Six  for  robbing  a boat. 

21,  Two  for  assault,  with  intent  to  kill. 

22,  Five  for  piracy  arid  attempt  to  kill. 

all  91  prisoners  for  trial,  not  including  a very  curious  case 
now  under  investigation,  in  which  a wealthy  brahmin  is  accused 
of  having  procured  his  enemy  to  be  seized  and  carried  before  the 
altar  of  Kali  in  his  private  house,  and  having  there  cut  ofFhis  head, 
after  the  manner  in  which  sheep  and  hogs  are  sacrificed  to  their 
deities.  This  offers  certainly  no  favourable  view  of  the  morals  of 
the  country,  considering  that  the  district  of  Furreedpoor  is  not 
larger  than  the  ordinary  run  of  Welsh  counties.  Two  circum- 
stances worth  notice  are,  the  gangs  in  which  most  crimes  are 
committed,  and  the  nature  of  the  defence  usually  set  up,  which,  I 
observed,  was,  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten,  an  alibi,  being  the  easiest 
of  all  others  to  obtain  by  the  aid  of  false  witnesses.  Perjury  is 
dreadfully  common  and  very  little  thought  of. 

In  the  evening  I again  drove  out  with  Mr.  Warner.  A large 
lake  is  at  a small  distance  from  the  house,  which  holds  water  all 
summer.  The  natives  say  it  was  part  of  the  original  bed  of  the 
Ganges  which  used  to  cover  all  Furreedpoor,  till  a Raja  requiring 
a portion  for  his  daughter,  implored  Varuna  to  give  him  one. 
The  god  sent  a tortoise,  which  swam  out,  making  a large  circuit 
in  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  immediately  within  that  space  dry 
land  appeared.  I read  prayers  to  Mr.  Warner’s  family  circle, 
and  returned  to  my  pinnace.  Furreedpoor  used  to  be  a favour- 
ite station  of  banditti,  and  so  dangerous,  that  till  a local  magis- 
trate with  a strong  police  was  settled  here,  no  valuable  boat  ever 
risked  the  passage.  This  part  of  its  former  history  may  possibly 
have  made  the  manners  of  its  present  inhabitants  more  unruly, 
and  account  in  some  degree  for  the  heaviness  of  the  calendar. 

July  27. — This  day  passed  as  the  preceding.  I heard  nothing 
of  Miss  Stowe,  and  the  disadvantage  of  any  further  delay  to  my 


JOURNEY  CONTINUED. 


163 


voyage  seemed  so  serious,  that  I determined,  unless  some  news 
reached  me  in  the  course  of  this  day  or  night,  to  go  on. 

July  28. — No  tidings  arriving,  and  having  done  every  thing  I 
could  think  of  to  ensure  the  gradual  impartment  of  the  sad  news 
of  her  brother’s  death  to  poor  Miss  Stowe,  and  provided  as  far  as 
T could  for  the  comfort  and  safety  of  her  dismal  homeward  jour- 
ney, about  noon,  w'^hen  I w^as  hurrying  the  Serang  to  make  sail,  I 
received  a letter  from  my  poor  wife,  with  an  account  of  the  severe 
illness  of  both  our  babies,  and  of  the  merciful  deliverance  which 
our  beloved  little  Emily  had  received  from  God.  This  letter 
grievously  agitated  me,  so  much  so  that  I think  for  some  time  I 
hardly  felt  or  understood  what  had  happened.  My  first  impres- 
sion was  to  hurry  home  to  Calcutta.  But  on  reading  the  letter 
over  again,  1 knew  I could  implicitly  trust  my  wife  when  she  told 
me  that  the  danger  was  over ; that  if  she  had  apprehended  the 
probability  of  a relapse,  she  would  not  have  concealed  it  from  me; 
that  1 was  engaged  at  this  time  in  a solemn  professional  duty,  to 
desert  which,  without  the  strongest  grounds,  would  be  a criminal 
distrust  of  God,  and  neglect  of  his  service ; that  my  presence 
would  not  help  my  poor  child,  and  that  in  case  of  the  worst  which 
I might  hear  at  Bogwangola,  I might  at  all  events  then  return  to 
comfort  my  poor  wife  under  her  affliction.  On  the  wfflole  I de- 
termined to  go  on,  though,  when  I had  made  that  determination, 
and  was  actually  on  the  broad  stream  of  th^  Ganges,  it  seemed 
as  if  I first  became  sensible  of  the  bitterness  \vhich  I had  escaped, 
and  which  might  still  threaten  me.  I did  not,  however,  repent 
of  the  resolution  which  I had  taken,  and  I hoped  I acted  right, 
and  not  unfeelingly  to  my  dear  wife,  in  thus  preferring  a public 
to  a private  duty. 


164 


CHAPTER  IX. 

FURREEDPOOR  TO  BOGLIPOOR. 

BLIND  BEGGAR CROCODILE APE SILK  MANUFACTORY BASKET  FOR 

CATCHING  FISH BOGWANGOLA STRENGTH  OF  CURRENT BEGGING 

DERVISES ANT-HILLS RAJMAHAL  HILLS GOUR RAJMAHAL SUL- 
TAN SUJAH’s  palace PUHARREES CAVES GOSSAIN BOGLIPOOR 

SCHOOLS RELIGION  OF  PUHARREES. 

We  had  a noble  breeze,  and  went  on  rapidly,  all  sail  spread, 
when  all  at  once,  to  my  great  surprise,  the  Serang  brought  up  the 
pinnace  so  suddenly,  that  he  almost  laid  her  on  her  beam-ends, 
and  the  water  flowed  in  at  her  lee  cabin  windows ; a very  little 
more  wind,  and  she  would  have  turned  quite  over.  On  running 
out  to  learn  the  reason  of  this  manoeuvre,  I found  Mohammed 
pale,  Abdullah  scolding,  and  the  crew  endeavouring,  with  more 
haste  than  good  speed,  to  get  in  the  top  and  top-gallant  sails.  It 
appeared  that  the  steersman  had  seen  a shoal  right  ahead,  and  so 
close  under  the  bows,  that  even  the  rapid  bringing-up  of  the  boat’s 
head  was  barely  sufficient  to  avoid  it.  The  fact  is,  however,  that 
such  mud-banks  as  are  usually  met  with  here  would  have  been 
less  dangerous  with  our  flat  bottom,  than  the  expedient  which 
they  put  in  practice.  However,  I ordered  two  men  forward 
with  long  bamboos,  to  sound  wherever  there  appeared  suspicion 
in  future  ; and  exhorted  them,  when  they  found  occasion  to  bring 
up  so  suddenly  again,  always  to  let  the  sails  go  at  the  same  time. 

The  river  is  here,  I should  think,  from  four  to  five  miles  wide. 
We  advanced  up  it  with  our  fine  breeze  at  a great  rate,  till  nearly 
seven,  when  we  brought  to  in  a swampy  and  inconvenient  spot, 
immediately  opposite  Jaffiergunge,  being  very  nearly  the  same 
place  where,  with  poor  Stowe,  I had  crossed  the  river  a month 
before.  It  now  swarmed  with  fishing-boats,  but  oflered  vessels 
of  no  other  description.  Many  nullahs  branch  out  of  the  main 
stream  in  every  direction.  I found  to-day  that  these  people  do 
not  apply  the  name  of  Gunga  at  all  to  this  stream,  but  call  it 
“ Pudda.”  My  ignorance  of  this  fact  used  to  perplex  me  exceed- 
ingly, both  in  asking  questions  and  receiving  answers.  They 
know  no  Gunga  but  the  Hooghly;  and  the  Burra  Gunga  (Great 
Ganges),  by  which  I tried  to  explain  myself,  was  always  mistaken 
by  Mohammed  for  the  “ Boori-gonga,”  a comparatively  insignifi- 
cant stream  near  Dacca. 


BEGGARS. 


165 


1 forgot  to  mention  in  their  proper  places  the  things  which  1 
saw  while  at  Furreedpoor.  One  was  a specimen  of  the  native 
fox,  running  near  Mr.  Warner’s  house,  and  so  little  afraid  that  one 
might  almost  have  laid  hold  of  him.  He  was  a beautiful  little 
animal,  not  much  larger  than  a hare,  of  a more  silky  fir  and  squir- 
rel-like tail,  than  the  English  reynard,  and  is  rather  serviceable 
than  otherwise,  inasmuch  as  though  he  sometimes  catches  small 
birds,  his  chief  food  is  of  field-mice  and  white  ants.  Another  cir- 
cumstance was,  that  my  boat  was  visited  by  a blind  beggar,  (a 
young  countryman,)  with  his  wife,  a fine  young  woman,  her  fea- 
tures not  very  delicate,  but  her  person  remarkably  well  made, 
and  the  tallest  female  whom  1 have  seen  in  India.  I gave  them 
alms,  and  when  she  thrust  out  her  hand  to  receive  them,  she  dis- 
played massive  silver  bracelets,  worth,  1 should  think,  at  least  25 
or  30  shillings.  Yet  these  were  beggars  ; and  to  judge  from  their 
scanty  and  wretched  clothing  in  all  other  respects,  I doubt  not 
objects  of  pity.  But  for  this  poor  woman  to  sell  her  bracelets, 
was  a thing  which  probably  never  would  occur  to  her  as  possible, 
except  under  urgent  and  hopeless  hunger.  She  had  also  rings  on 
her  ankles,  which,  indeed,  drew  my  attention  to  her  sex,  for  her 
height  made  me  at  first  suppose  her  to  be  a young  man,  and  her 
dress,  which  was  a coarse  sackcloth  mantle,  might  have  belonged 
either  to  male  or  female.  Her  manner  was  extremely  modest ; 
she  never  let  go  her  husband’s  hand,  and  was/ evidently  annoyed 
by  the  sort  of  notice  she  attracted  from  the  boatmen  and  my  ser- 
vants. The  old  blind  man  led  by  a little  boy,  whom  we  saw  on 
the  Chundnah,  made  his  appearance  also  at  Furreedpoor,  a proof 
of  his  wandering  habits.  The  existence  of  these  beggars,  as  it 
implies  that  they  obtain  some  relief,  may  seem  to  exculpate  the 
mass  of  Hindoos  from  the  charge  of  general  inhumanity  and  sel- 
fishness, so  often  brought  against  them.  At  the  same  time,  in  a 
country  where  there  is  no  legal  provision  for  distress,  it  is  almost 
needless  to  observe,  that  in  cases  of  blindness,  leprosy,  lameness, 
and  helpless  old  age,  to  give  to  beggars  as  we  have  the  means,  is 
an  obligation  of  justice  as  well  as  charity. 

July  29. — Our  course  the  early  part  of  to-day  was  chiefly  along 
the  north-east  bank,  and  in  part  through  a succession  of  “ aits,” 
beds  of  reeds,  and  overflowed  ground  cultivated  with  rice.  The 
weather  pleasant,  and  not  very  different  from  an  English  summer 
day.  Indeed,  I have  as  yet  seen  nothing  to  make  me  lose  the 
opinion  that  the  rains  in  India  are  by  no  means  an  unpleasant 
season.  Several  circumstances  reminded  me  painfully  of  poor 
Stowe.  At  about  half  past  nine  we  passed  what  he  and  I had,  in 
our  previous  passage,  taken  for  a clump  of  tall  trees ; but  which, 
now  that  I saw  it  nearer,  appeared  to  be  a single  but  very  majes- 
tic banian.  1 looked  in  vain  for  the  islet  where  we  passed  our 


166 


CROCODILE. 


evening,  (his  last  evening  of  health  and  high  spirits,)  and  where 
he  waded  after  the  wild  ducks  into  the  marsh,  which  so  unhap- 
pily affected  him.  The  increasing  flood  had  now  covered  it;  but 
1 recognised  the  village  where  we  passed  our  first  night  in  what 
we  called,  in  merriment,  India  beyond  the  Ganges  where  we 
saw  the  dwarf,  and  the  “ lodge  in  the  garden  of  cucumbers 
while,  standing  out  a little,  to  avail  ourselves  of  the  wind  in  the 
next  reach,  we  grounded  on  a part  of  the  same  line  of  marshy 
islets  which  we  had  traversed  on  foot  a few  weeks  before.  1 
could  not  help  feeling  that  now  1 had  nobody  to  compare  my 
impressions  with ; none  whose  attention  I might  call  to  singular 
or  impressive  objects, — that  I was,  indeed,  a lonely  wanderer ! 
Such  thoughts  are,  however,  useless,  and  perhaps  they  are  hardly 
innocent ; with  a great  object  before  me,  with  Providence  for  my 
guide,  and  with  the  power  of  a constant  correspondence  with  a 
beloved  wife,  1 have  no  right  to  regard  myself  as  solitary  or  for- 
saken. But  having  nobody  to  talk  to  will  probably  swell  the  size 
of  my  journal. 

The  country  improved  very  much  in  the  course  of  the  morn- 
ing, and  the  number  of  fishing-boats  was  really  extraordinary ; 
most  of  them  had  their  sails  spread  between  two  bamboos,  one 
on  each  gunwale,  as  common  in  the  South  Seas ; and  the  groupes, 
both  of  boats  and  fishermen,  skimming  past  the  beautifully  wooded 
bank,  afforded  subjects  for  painting  such  as  I should  have  delight- 
ed, had  I possessed  the  necessary  talent,  to  transfer  to  paper. 

About  half  past  one,  and  when  we  were  not  far  from  the  stream 
which  diverges  from  the  Pudda,  between  Pulna  and  Radanuggur, 
Mohammed,  in  excessive  carelessness  or  ignorance,  contrived  to 
lose  his  way,  by  going  directly  north,  round  a large  island  in  the 
middle  of  the  river,  and  consequently  in  a channel  leading  back 
again  towards  Jaffiergunge.  We  soon  found  that  we  had  the 
stream  with  instead  of  against  us,  and  asking  some  fishermen, 
learned  the  mistake.  We  had  scarcely,  I think,  gone  a mile 
wrong,  when  we  attempted  to  return;  but  having  both  wind  and 
stream  against  us,  and  very  bad  towing  ground,  it  took  up  the 
whole  afternoon,  till  past  six,  to  get  out  of  the  scrape  again,  and 
to  moor  in  the  main  stream,  by  some  marshy  ground,  so  com- 
pletely drenched  with  water,  that  my  bearers  were  unable  to  find 
a place  to  dress  their  victuals.  This  loss  of  half  a day’s  fine  wind 
was  excessively  provoking.  The  delay,  however,  gave  time  for 
the  servants’  boats  to  join  us,  which  must  else  have  been  com- 
pletely distanced.  We  passed,  this  evening,  the  first  crocodile  1 
have  seen.  It  was  swimming  leisurely,  pretty  close  to  our  boat, 
but  I could  distinguish  little  but  what  looked  like  a heavy  log  of 
wood,  drifting  down  the  stream.  The  people,  however,  called 
out,  “ Coomer ! Coomer !”  and  my  servants,  being  Calcutta 


G AO  W ALE^GIP  SIE  S. 


167 


people,  seemed  interested  and  curious  to  see  it.  Abdullah  said 
it  was  rather  a large  one,  but  that  I should  see  enough  to  tire 
me  by  the  time  we  got  to  Rajmahal. 

After  all,  our  progress  during  this  half  day  was  not  inconsider- 
able ; and  I began  to  entertain  better  hopes  of  a timely  arrival 
in  the  Upper  Provinces  than  I had  for  some  days  ventured  to 
cherish. 

July  30. — We  still  suffered  this  morning  from  Mohammed’s 
ignorance,  which  had  completely  embayed  us  in  the  curve  of  the 
northern  shore,  so  that  to  get  round  the  point  between  us  and  the 
Pulna  reach  occupied  nearly  half  a day’s  grievous  labour,  up  to 
their  breasts  in  water,  to  the  poor  boatmen.  About  half-past  five 
we  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Comercolly ; the  wind  had  now 
in  a considerable  degree  died  away  ; it  was  still,  however,  enough 
to  carry  our  boats  in  a full  west  course  by  my  compass,  across 
the  opening  of  the  Comercolly,  (which  is  about  as  wide  at  this 
season  as  the  Thames  at  Vauxhall,)  and  some  small  distance 
along  the  right  bank  of  the  main  river,  where  we  brought  to  on 
the  margin  of  a fine  dry  pasture  of  fiorin  grass,  one  of  the  airiest 
and  best  stations  which  we  have  had  during  the  voyage.  At  a 
short  distance  was  a collection  of  very  poor  huts,  with  a herd  of 
cattle  round  them.  I walked  to  them,  and  found  a complete 
dairy,  or  rather  perhaps,  grazier’s  establishment,  for  they  had  not 
many  milch  cows.  They  were  the  herds  of  the  village,  united 
under  the  common  care  of  two  or  three  men  “ gaowale,”  (cow- 
men) who  kept  them  in  these  and  similar  pastures,  this  being  a 
celebrated  grazing  country.  The  calves  and  young  stock  were 
penned  up  in  two  circular  enclosures  of  bamboo  and  thorns,  and 
the  cows  and  oxen  lay  quietly  ruminating  on  the  outside.  1 saw 
no  dogs,  nor  did  the  herdsmen  (for  there  were  no  females  among 
them)  seem  to  have  any  weapons  or  means  of  defence  against 
wild  beasts,  a sufficient  proof  that  they  are  not  numerous  here. 
The  men,  however,  seem  to  be  prepared  for,  and  accustomed  to 
watching  in  the  open  air,  having  a greater  wrap  of  turban  round 
the  head  and  neck,  and  longer  and  warmer  mantles  than  are  usual 
in  Bengal.  They  are  a caste  by  themselves,  tall,  robust  men, 
many  with  long  beards,  and  all  wilder  looking  than  the  majority 
of  their  countrymen.  1 was  reminded  of  Grim  Tartary,  but 
missed  the  long  spear,  the  huge  dogs,  the  high-mettled  horses 
and  covered  carts  of  those  noble  shepherds.  These  men  were 
very  civil,  and  regretted  they  had  no  milk  for  me,  as  they  only 
took  a very  little  from  each  cow  once  a day,  the  remainder  going 
to  the  calf.  One  old  man,  however,  brought  up  some  milk  which 
he  was  boiling  for  his  own  supper,  and  willingly  sold  half  of  it 
for  a couple  of  pice,  my  own  goats  now  supplying  me  with  little. 
The  evening  was  very  fine,  and  though  the  night  was  too  dusky 


168 


GIPSIES. 


for  me  to  walk  far,  I strolled  backwards  and  forwards,  enjoying 
the  delightful  elasticity  of  the  dry  turf,  the  fresh  breeze  of  the 
river,  and  the  fragrant  breath  of  the  cows  till  near  ten  o’clock. 
A great  many  small  boats  still  continued  to  glide  along  the  stream, 
as  if  engaged  in  nightly  fishing,  and  the  dash  of  their  paddles, 
and  the  blowing  of  the  porpoises,  were  almost  the  only  sounds 
which  broke  the  general  stillness.  Altogether  it  was  an  evening 
to  enjoy  and  to  be  thankful  for,  and  a scene  which  I left  with 
regret. 

July  31. — About  half  an  hour,  after  we  set  out,  and  while  we 
were  close  to  the  shore,  we  passed  by  a number  of  extremely 
small  and  mean  huts,  patched  up  in  a temporary  way  with  boughs 
and  rushes.  I asked  Mohammed  what  they  were,  and  he  answer^ 
ed  “ they  were  people  from  the  upper  kingdom,"'^  Abdullah  said 
they  were  a sort  of  gipsies,  who  lived  by  fishing.  Some  of  them 
came  out  of  their  booths  as  we  passed,  a race  that  no  man  can 
mistake,  meet  them  where  he  may,  though  they  are,  as  might  be 
expected  from  their  latitude  and  their  exposure  to  the  climate, 
far  blacker  here  than  in  England,  or  even  than  the  usual  race  of 
Bengalees  are.  They  are  the  same  tall,  fine-limbed,  bony,  slender 
people,  with  the  same  large,  black,  brilliant  eyes,  lowering  fore- 
head, and  long  hair  curled  at  the  extremities,  which  we  meet  on 
a common  in  England.  I saw  only  one  woman,  and  her  figure 
was  marked  by  the  same  characters.  In  height  she  would  have 
made  two  of  the  usual  females  of  this  country,  and  she  stepped 
out  with  the  stride  and  firmness  of  a Meg  Merrilies.  Of  the 
gipsey  cast  of  her  features  I could  not,  however,  judge,  since, 
though  half  naked,  she  threw  a ragged  and  dirty  veil  over  her 
face  as  soon  as  she  saw  us.  This  trait  belongs  to  the  upper 
provinces.  In  Bengal  a woman  of  her  rank  would  not  have 
thought  concealment  necessary.  There  were  no  boats  immedi- 
ately near  them,  but  a little  further  we  overtook  several  filled 
with  the  same  sort  of  people.  The  river  was  here  much  narrower 
than  it  had  been  for  the  last  day  or  two,  being,  as  I suspect,  divid- 
ed by  islands.  Many  birds  of  the  crane  and  stork  species  were 
feeding,  and  there  were  two  at  some  distance  which  I thought 
were  pelicans.  But  if  they  were,  they  were  smaller  than  those 
of  Russia,  and  had  more  brown  on  their  wings.  We  passed 
several  stacks  of  millet,  just  gathered  and  piled  up,  with  a small 
stage  and  shed  erected  in  the  middle  for  a watch-house.  This 
is  the  season  I was  informed  for  reaping  millet ; they  thrash  it 
out  with  oxen  and  a small  roller.  I also  observed  some  maize, 
of  which  I have  frequently  seen  the  ears  at  table,  plain  boiled, 
and  eaten  with  salt  and  butter,  like  artichokes.  The  rice  along 
the  banks  was  growing  very  tall,  green,  and  beautiful ; this  is  the 
first  crop,  and  to  be  cut  next  month  as  soon  as  the  water  has 


APE— SURDA^H. 


169 


reached  it  ;j  the  rice  is  reckoned  most  valuable  and  wholesome 
which  rem|tins  the  longest  dry. 

At  a neighbouring  village  I saw  an  ape  in  a state  of  liberty, 
but  as  tame  as  possible,  the  favourite,  perhaps  the  deity,  certainly 
the  sacred  animal  of  the  villagers.  He  was  sitting  in  a little  bush 
as  we  stopped,  (to  allow  the  servant’s  boats  to  come  up,)  and  on 
smelling  dinner,  1 suppose,  for  my  meal  was  getting  ready,  wad- 
dled gravely  down  to  the  water's  edge.  He  was  about  the  size 
of  a large  spaniel,  enormously  fat,  covered  with  long  silky  hair, 
generally  of  a rusty  colour,  but  on  his  breast  a fine  shot  blue,  and 
about  his  buttocks  and  thighs  gradually  waving  into  a deep  orange ; 
he  had  no  tail,  or  one  so  short  that  the  hair  concealed  it ; he  went 
on  all  fours  only,  I gave  him  some  toast,  and  my  sirdar-bearer 
(a  Hindoo)  sent  him  a leaf  full  of  rice.  I suspect  he  was  often 
in  the  habit  of  receiving  doles  at  this  spot,  which  is  the  usual 
place  for  standing  across  a deep  bay  of  the  river,  and  I certainly 
have  never  yet  seen  a human  Fakir  in  so  good  case.  To  ascend 
a tree  must  be  to  a hermit  of  his  size  a wmrk  of  considerable 
trouble,  but  I suppose  he  does  so  at  night  for  security,  otherwise 
he  would  be  a magnificent  booty  for  the  jackalls. 

We  now  stood  across  the  bay,  passed  through  another  nullah, 
and  then  again  stood  over  a wide  extent  of  marsh,  of  which  the 
long  rushes  still  appeared  above  the  water.  Porpoises  continued 
to  rise,  which,  considering  the  distance  from  the  sea,  is  what  1 
should  not  have  expected. 

The  extent  of  water  here  really  surprised  me  ; we  stood  north- 
west by  north,  and  to  the  west  and  east  I could  not,  from  my 
cabin-windows,  see  any  land.  We  anchored  on  a sandy  islet 
partly  covered  with  reeds,  partly  with  the  remains  of  a crop  of 
indigo,  which  a herd  of  cattle  were  eating  down. 

August  1. — Our  wind  unhappily  failed  us  in  a part  of  the  river 
where  we  might  have  derived  the  most  essential  service  from  it, 
and  the  greater  part  of  the  day  we  were  towed.  I feel  much 
regret  at  occasioning  these  poor  men  to  labour  on  a Sunday,  but 
even  if  I lost  a day,  that  day  would  not  be  spent  by  them  in  any 
devotional  exercises,  and  to  lose  one  in  my  present  journey,  and 
at  this  time  of  the  year,  might  hazard  all  my  hope  of  that  jour- 
ney tending  to  God’s  service.  Soon  after  we  set  out  this  morn- 
ing we  found  the  river  divided  by  a large  island,  and  ascended 
the  northern  branch,  the  southern  leading  towards  Jellinghy. 
About  one  o’clock  we  emerged  into  the  broad  stream,  and  con- 
tinued our  progress  as  far  as  within  two  miles  of  Surdah.  The 
country  on  this  side  is  very  populous,  well  cultivated,  and  as  beau- 
tiful as  verdure,  shade,  water,  and  the  splendid  variety  of  Indian 
shrubs  and  trees,  can  make  it. 

VoL.  I. — 22 


170  COMPANY’S  SILK  MANUFACTORY. 

At  Surdah  is  one  of  the  Company’s  silk  manufactories,  and  the 
river  on  which  it  stands  is  also  the  usual  route  from  Dacca  to 
the  upper  provinces.  We  here  stood  directly  up  the  Ganges  in 
a north-west  direction,  favoured  by  a little  breeze.  The  crew 
on  leaving  the  shore  set  up  as  usual,  though  I believe  I never 
before  mentioned  it,  their  cry  of  Allah  hu  Allah.”  1 cannot 
help  admiring  in  the  Mussulmans  the  manner  in  which  their  reli- 
gion apparently  mixes  itself  with  every  action  of  their  lives,  and 
though  it  is  but  too  true  that  all  this  has  a tendency  to  degenerate 
into  mere  form  or  cant,  or  even  profanation  of  holy  things,  for 
the  constant  use  of  God’s  name  in  the  manner  in  which  some  of 
them  use  it,  scarcely  differs  from  swearing,  it  might  he  well  if 
Christians  learned  from  them  to  keep  their  faith  and  hope  more 
continually  in  their  minds,  and  more  frequently  on  their  lips,  than 
the  greater  number  of  them  do.  Above  all,  it  seems  to  be  an 
error,  particularly  in  a heathen  country,  to  act  as  if  we  were 
ashamed  of  our  religion,  to  watch  the  servants  out  of  the  room 
before  we  kneel  down  to  our  prayers,  or  to  dissemble  in  secular 
matters  the  hope  and  trust  which  we  really  feel  in  Providence. 
By  the  way,  it  is  only  during  this  journey  that  1 have  had  occasion 
to  observe  how  strictly  the  Mussulmans  conform  to  the  maxim  of 
St.  James,  to  say,  “ if  the  Lord  will,  we  shall  live  and  do  this  or 
that.”  All  the  Mohammedans  whom  I have  heard  speak  of  their 
own  purposes,  or  any  future  contingencies,  have  qualified  it  with 
« Insh  Allah.” 

Abdullah  asked  me  if  the  Gunga  was  one  of  the  rivers  of 
Paradise.  I told  him  it  was  a difficult  question,  but  that  the 
four  rivers  of  Irak  were  generally  supposed  to  be  those  meant  by 
Moses.  I instanced  the  Frat  and  Dikkel,  but  had  forgotten  the 
modern  names  of  the  other  two.  He  seemed  sorry  the  Ganges 
had  no  chance,  but  expressed  some  satisfaction  that  he  himself 
had  seen  them  all  when  with  Sir  Gore  Ousley.  While  passing 
Surdah,  I could  easily  distinguish  a large  brick  building,  with  a 
long  range  of  tiled  warehouses  attached,  which  I was  told  was  a 
silk  manufactory.  Had  it  been  another  day  I should  have  re- 
gretted passing  it  unvisited.  The  Italian  method  of  curing  and 
managing  silk  is  practised  here,  having  been  introduced  about 
fifty  years  ago,  by  workmen  brought  from  Italy  at  the  Company’s 
expense.  I know  not  whether  it  is  now  kept  up  with  any  spirit. 
On  arriving  at  the  west  bank  we  went  on  prosperously  enough, 
till  at  last,  near  a ruined  indigo  factory,  and  by  that  time  of  even- 
ing when  the  wind  usually  failed  us,  we  found  the  stream  so 
strong  as  to  require  all  hands  to  pull  against  it,  and  the  Serang 
said  he  could  do  no  more  than  get  to  some  trees  a little  further, 
under  which  he  thought  he  saw  a vessel.  What  he  took  for  the 


RUINED  INDIGO  FACTORY. 


171 


sail,  when  we  arrived,  however,  turned  out  to  be  the  wall  of  a 
ruined  house,  of  which  the  greater  part  had  been  swept  away  by 
the  river,  and  we  found  a most  inhospitable  beach,  a fierce  cur- 
rent, and  nothing  but  desolation.  Some  country  people  came  to 
us,  and  said  we  were  in  one  of  the  worst  places  of  the  whole 
river,  that  a large  village  and  indigo-work  had  been  washed  away 
here  last  year,  that  ropes  were  often  broken,  and  vessels  some- 
times lost,  and  that  no  boat  of  any  size  ever  came  hither  that 
could  help  it.  This  was  very  provoking,  but  nothing  was  now 
practicable,  as  it  appeared,  except  to  make  our  vessels  as  fast  to 
shore  as  we  could,  though  after  we  had  done  so  about  an  hour, 
and  when  it  was  too  dark  to  move  again,  a fisherman  who  came 
up  said  there  was  a very  tolerable  place  for  bringing  to,  a few 
hundred  yards  further  on.  Our  distance  from  Bogwangola  was 
seven  coss  (fourteen  miles).  The  line  of  coast  differs  greatly 
from  Rennell,  but  the  changes  which  the  river  is  making  on  this 
shore,  are  obviously  such  as  to  account  for  very  considerable 
discrepancies.  The  latter  paH  of  our  sail  this  day,  afforded  a 
very  striking  sea  view.  As  the  course  of  the  river  is  from  north- 
west to  south-east,  the  sun  literally  set  into  it  without  any  ap- 
pearance of  land  on  the  horizon  in  that  quarter.  1 was  very 
strongly  reminded  of  a sun-set  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mersey.  The 
Ganges  is  not  really  so  wide,  but  the  general  flatness  of  its  shores 
makes  the  distance  appear  greater,  and  the  large  pulwars  with 
sails,  gliding  in  every  direction,  at  a certain  distance  reminded 
me  of  the  Manks  jagger-boats.  I tried  to  find  a place  for  walk- 
ing, but  did  not  succeed.  The  whole  country  was  intersected 
with  ditches  and  little  nullahs,  and  the  evening  was  shutting  in 
too  fast  to  attempt  discoveries.  No  rain  had  fallen  for  some 
days,  but  the  weather  was  not  unpleasant,  though  now  the 
night  closed  in  with  divers  prognostics  both  of  rain  and  wind. 
A north-wester  in  our  actual  situation  would  have  gone  near  to 
wreck  us..  The  night,  however,  thank  God,  passed  off  in  great 
stillness. 

August  2. — We  had  little  or  no  wind,  and  were  compelled  to 
continue  our  toilsome  and  tedious  course  for  about  four  miles 
further.  The  channel  into  which  we  here  entered,  was  full  of 
vessels  carrying  cotton  down  from  the  upper  provinces.  Their 
freight  upwards  consists  of  European  goods,  salt-fish,  salt,  and 
coco-nuts.  I have  missed  the  coco-nut  tree  for  some  days,  and 
I am  told  they  are  not  found  to  the  north  of  Jellinghy  and 
Moorshedabad.  Great  herds  of  cattle  are  seen  on  the  shore, 
and  the  groups  of  some  of  them,  cooling  themselves  in  the  water, 
intermingled  with  fishing-boats  and  pulwars,  and  with  the  mea- 
dows bordered  by  low  cottages  and  bamboos  in  the  back-ground, 
would  have  furnished  Cuyp  with  more  beautiful  subjects,  in  his 


172 


BAGWANGOLA. 


peculiar  style,  than  any  which  he  could  find  in  his  own  country. 
Since  we  left  the  Hooghly,  we  had  bidden  adieu  to  those  vast 
Egyptian  brick-kilns  which  are  so  common  on  its  shores.  I had 
scarcely  seen  any  thing  of  the  kind  either  on  the  Matabunga, 
the  Pudda,  or  the  river  of  Dacca.  Here  they  are  beginning  to 
re-appear.  Our  course  continues  nearly  west,  though  a little 
inclining  to  the  south.  I saw  here  a succession  of  baskets  open- 
ing out  of  one  another,  like  traps,  or  rather  on  the  principle  of 
the  eel-net  in  England,  for  catching  fish,  which  once  entered, 
cannot  conveniently  turn  round,  and  therefore  go  on  to  a cham- 
ber contrived  at  the  end,  the  entrance  to  which  is  guarded 
with  sharp  reeds  pointing  inwards,  like  a mouse-trap.  The 
same  invention  is  practised  in  Russia,  and  probably  in  many 
other  countries,  though  in  England  I have  only  seen  it  applied 
to  eels. 

About  nine  o’clock,  while  passing  a large  collection  of  boats, 
the  wind  suddenly  began  to  blow  briskly  from  the  north-east,  and 
I had  an  example  of  how  soon  and  suddenly  mischief  may  be 
done  among  the  weak  and  clumsy  boats  of  the  country.  Our 
pinnace  broke  from  the  hold  of  the  men  who  were  towing  her, 
and  came  against  the  broadside  of  a large  pulwar  laden  with  corn, 
with  so  much  violence  that  I thought  she  had  staved  in  her 
quarter,  breaking  with  a great  crash  the  bamboo  supporters  of 
her  platform,  the  mat  and  wicker  walls  of  her  cabin,  her  oars, 
spars,  and  every  thing  else  that  came  in  the  way.  She  was  no 
sooner  made  clear  of  this  vessel,  which  was  done  by  the  united 
strength  of  both  crews,  and  with  loud  cries  of  “ Ullah,”  and  “ Ali ! 
Ali !”  than  she  drifted  bodily  on  our  cook-boat,  which  had  she 
reached  she  would  probably  have  sunk.  The  crew,  however, 
seeing  their  danger,  pushed  themselves  with  much  readiness  and 
dexterity  up  between  a pulwar  which  we  had  just  passed,  and 
the  bank,  breaking,  indeed,  all  their  own  oars,  but  avoiding  a 
greater  risk.  Happily  no  mischief  was  done,  but  such  as  a few 
hours  would  repair,  but  had  the  boats  been  weak,  and  the  wind 
stronger,  both  pulwar  and  cook-boat  would  probably  have  gone 
to  the  bottom.  The  pinnace  held  the  place  of  the  brazen  pot  in 
the  fable,  and  was  more  likely  to  be  the  breaker  than  the  broken. 
She,  however,  had  one  of  her  venitians  carried  away,  but  luckily 
it  was  picked  up  again. 

We  arrived  at  Bogwangola  between  four  and  five,  and  stopped 
there  for  the  night.  I found  the  place  very  interesting,  and  even 
beautiful.  A thorough  Hindoo  village,  without  either  Europeans 
or  Mussulmans,  and  a great  part  of  the  houses  were  sheds  or 
booths  for  the  accommodation  of  the  “gomastas,”  (agents  or 
supercargos,)  who  come  here  to  the  great  corn  fairs,  which  are 
held,  I believe,  annually.  They  are  scattered  very  prettily  over 


POLICE. 


173 


a large  green  common,  fenced  off  from  the  river  by  a high  grassy 
mound,  which  forms  an  excellent  dry  walk,  bordered  with  mango- 
trees,  bamboos,  and  the  date-palm,  as  well  as  some  fine  banians. 
The  common  was  covered  with  children  and  cattle,  a considerable 
number  of  boats  were  on  the  beach,  different  musical  instruments 
were  strumming,  thumping,  squealing,  and  rattling  from  some  of 
the  open  sheds,  and  the  whole  place  exhibited  a cheerfulness, 
and,  though  it  was  not  the  time  of  the  fair,  an  activity  and  bustle 
which  were  extremely  interesting  and  pleasing.  The  houses  were 
most  of  them  very  small,  but  neat,  with  their  walls  of  mats, 
which,  when  new,  always  look  well.  One,  in  particular,  which 
was  of  a more  solid  construction  than  the  rest,  and  built  round 
a little  court,  had  a slip  of  garden  surrounding  its  exterior,  filled 
with  flowering  shrubs,  and  enclosed  by  a very  neat  bamboo 
railing.  Others  were  open  all  round,  and  here  two  parties  of  the 
fakir  musicians,  whose  strains  I had  heard,  were  playing,  while 
in  a house  near  one  of  them  were  some  females,  whose  gaudy 
dress  and  forward  manner  seemed  pretty  clearly  to  mark  their 
profession  as  the  Nach  girls  of  the  place.  After  leaving  the 
shore,  I followed  a very  pretty  glade,  through  what  was  almost  a 
jungle,  or  rather  a woody  pasture,  though  houses  were  still  seen 
scattered  at  some  distance.  I found  here,  to  my  surprise,  two 
armed  men,  the  one  with  a short  rusty  spear,  the  other  with  a 
long  antique  eastern-shaped  gun.  On  asking  who  they  were,  and 
what  they  were  doing,  they  answered  that  they  were  “ Burkan- 
dazes,”  (inferior  police  officers,)  and  had  come  into  the  wood  for 
the  sake  of  sporting.  They  were  very  civil,  and  showed  me  a 
dry  and  pretty,  though  circuitous  road  back  to  the  pinnace  again. 
This  led  me  between  some  closes  carefully  fenced  with  bamboo, 
and  planted  with  dwarf  mulberry-trees,  about  as  high  and  as 
thickly  set  as  gooseberry-bushes  in  England,  for  the  use  of  silk- 
worms. The  whole  v/alk  was  extremely  beautiful,  and  more 
like  the  view  of  a “ Fiatookah”  in  Tongataboo,  in  Cook’s  third 
voyage,  than  any  thing  else  by  which  I can  illustrate  it. 

If  thou  wert  by  my  side,  my  love ! 

How  fast  would  evening  fail 
In  green  Bengola’s  palmy  grove, 

Listening  the  nightingale  ! 

If  thou,  my  love  ! wert  by  my  side, 

My  babies  at  my  knee. 

How  gaily  would  our  pinnace  glide 
O’er  Gunga’s  mimic  sea ! 

I miss  thee  at  the  dawning  gray, 

When,  on  our  deck  reclined. 

In  careless  ease  my  limbs  I lay, 

And  woo  the  cooler  wind. 


174  - 


BOGWANGOLA. 


I miss  thee  when  by  Gunga’s  stream 
My  twilight  steps  I guide, 

But  most  beneath  the  lamp’s  pale  beam 
I miss  thee  from  my  side. 

I spread  my  books,  my  pencil  try. 

The  lingering  noon  to  cheer. 

But  miss  thy  kind  approving  eye. 

Thy  meek  attentive  ear. 

But  when  of  morn  and  eve  the  star 
Beholds  me  on  my  knee, 

I feel,  though  thou  art  distant  far. 

Thy  prayers  ascend  for  me. 

Then  on ! then  on  I where  duty  leads. 

My  course  be  onward  still. 

O’er  broad  Hindostan’s  sultry  mead. 

O’er  bleak  Almorah’s  hill. 

That  course,  nor  Delhi’s  kingly  gates. 

Nor  wild  Malwah  detain. 

For  sweet  the  bliss  us  both  awaits 
By  yonder  western  main. 

Thy  towers,  Bombay,  gleam  bright,  they  say. 

Across  the  dark  blue  sea. 

But  ne'er  were  hearts  so  light  and  gay 
As  then  shall  meet  in  thee  I 

Bogwangola  has  been  several  times,  within  these  few  years, 
removed  to  different  situations  in  consequence  of  the  havoc  made 
by  the  Ganges.  It  has,  therefore,  no  ancient  building,  and  neither 
pagoda  nor  mosque  of  any  kind  that  I could  discover.  Indeed  it 
has  the  appearance  rather  of  an  encampment  than  a town,  but  is 
not  on  that  account  the  less  pretty. 

August  3. — With  little  or  no  wind  we  proceeded,  by  towing, 
to  one  of  the  channels  which  lead  by  Sooty,  from  the  main  Gan- 
ges, into  the  Moorshedabad  river.  Here  it  was  declared  impossi- 
ble to  proceed  without  a breeze,  the  stream  running  like  a race 
in  a narrow  channel  between  the  main  land  and  some  marshy 
islands,  the  other  channel,  which  might  have  answered  our  pur- 
pose, having  been  blocked  up  by  an  indigo  planter,  and  the 
country  being  so  much  flooded  further  on,  as  to  make  towing  im- 
practicable. Whilst  1 was  at  dinner,  however,  the  wind  arose, 
and  we  made  sail,  but  certainly  not  even  in  the  Hooghly  below 
Diamond  Harbour  did  I ever  see  such  a torrent.  All  our  sails 
were  set,  and  the  masts  bending  before  the  wind,  the  men  went 
a-head  up  to  their  breasts  in  water  to  help  by  towing,  yet  all 
scarcely  helped  us  on  two  hundred  yards.  This  sort  of  work 
went  on  for  nearly  three  hours,  when  the  wind  began  to  slacken, 
and  we  were  forced  to  try  another  channel,  and  got  on  in  the  first 


BUNIYAN’S  SHOP, 


175 


instance  without  difficulty,  passing  between  rice  fields,  and  close 
to  a modern  sized  Hindoo  village,  where  I saw  some  of  the  finest 
draught  oxen  which  I have  seen  in  this  country,  and  by  their  bulk 
and  sleekness  doing  honour  to  their  proprietor’s  humanity  and 
good  sense,  as  well  as  showing  how  good  and  serviceable  a breed 
may  be  raised  in  this  country  with  a little  cost  and  care.  The 
farm  or  cottage  to  which  they  apparently  belonged,  was  a mere 
hut  of  bamboos  and  thatch,  but  very  clean,  and  its  sheds  and 
granary,  which  enclosed  as  usual  a small  court,  larger  and  cleaner 
externally  than  is  usually  seen  near  Calcutta,  which  neighbour- 
hood certainly  loses  ground,  in  my  opinion,  the  more  I see  of  the 
rest  of  Bengal.  xAfter  crossing  this  formidable  current  close  to 
the  mouth  of  the  strait,  which  we  had  before  vainly  endeavoured 
to  stem,  with  great  difficulty,  we  came  to  a miserable  drowned 
country,  without  habitations,  a great  deal  of  it  jungle,  and  the 
rice  with  which  the  rest  was  cultivated,  looking  starved  and  yel- 
low with  its  over  supply  of  water.  If  the  river  rose  at  all  higher, 
the  crop  I was  told  would  be  good  for  nothing,  and  that  it  was 
now  almost  spoiled.  It  was  a different  kind  of  rice  from  that 
grown  near  Dacca,  and  required  to  be  reaped  tolerably  dry. 
The  water-rice  is  of  an  inferior  quality.  Along  this  wretched 
coast  it  would  be  almost  impossible  for  the  men  to  tow,  and  there- 
fore having  a good  breeze,  I determined  to  run  on  till  we  should 
get  to  sound  land  again.  By  the  light  of  a fine  moon  we  held  on 
our  course  till  nearly  nine  o’clock,  when  hearing  the  cigalas  chirp 
on  shore,  which  I knew  was  no  bad  sign,  I told  the  Serang  he 
might  “ lugos.”  He  did  so  with  great  joy,  and  we  found  fine  dry 
fields  of  cotton  and  silk-mulberries,  with  a grassy  bank  to  the 
river’s  edge,  and  a broad  sandy  path  leading  to  a village  at  a little 
distance.  “ Now  then,  Mohammed,”  1 said  with  some  triumph,  as 
I had  had  great  difficulty  in  making  him  go  on  so  far,  “ and  all  you 
dandees,  is  not  a night’s  sail  better  than  a day’s  tracking  ?” 
“ Yes,  my  lord,”  was  the  answer  of  one  of  the  men,  “but  toil  is 
better  than  peril,  and  the  eye  of  the  day  than  the  blindness  of 
the  night.”  It  was  plain  that  they  were  all  afraid  of  getting 
aground,  not  knowing  this  part  of  the  river,  but  in  so  fine  a night, 
and  with  due  care,  1 could  not  think  the  danger  at  all  probable. 

I walked  to  the  village  with  Abdullah  to  get  some  milk,  and 
to  see  the  place.  The  soil  was  light,  but  apparently  good,  and 
we  passed  through  crops  of  cotton,  millet,  and  barley.  We  found 
a large  herd  of  draught  buffaloes,  tethered  two  and  two,  but  no 
milk-giving  animal  of  any  kind.  The  herdsman  referred  us  to  a 
cottage,  whence  came  out  an  old  woman,  to  say  that  her  cows 
were  gone  to  another  place  at  some  distance  ; that  the  only 
people  at  all  likely  to  supply  us,  were  the  “ Giriftu,”  tacksmen, 
or  chief  tenants  of  the  village,  and  a “ Buniyan,”  or  trader,  whose 


176 


AN  EVENING  WALK  IN  BENGAL. 


shop  we  should  find  a little  further.  We  went  along  a lane  till 
we  came  to  a large  and  clean  looking  hut,  with  a small  shed  ad- 
joining, where,  with  a lamp  over  his  head,  and  a small  heap  of 
cowries,  some  comfits,  elicampane,  rice,  ghee,  and  other  grocery 
matters  before  him,  sat  the  buniyan  of  the  place,  a shrewd,  sharp, 
angular  old  man  in  spectacles,  being  the  first  naked  man  I ever 
saw  so  decorated.  On  Abdullah’s  stating  our  wants,  he  laughed, 
and  said  that  neither  he,  nor,  to  his  knowledge,  the  giriftu,  had 
either  cow  or  goat.  “ The  land  here,”  he  said,  “ is  never  quite 
overflowed  : it  is  therefore  too  good  for  pasture,  and  we  never 
let  our  cows  look  at  it  till  after  harvest.”  “ But,”  said  Abdullah, 
“ the  Sahib  will  give  a good  price  for  it.”  “ Whether  you  give  or 
no,”  said  the  old  man  testily,  “ it  does  not  matter,  unless  you 
choose  to  milk  the  cat !”  Thus  ended  our  search,  from  which  I 
learnt  two  things  : how  to  account  for  the  large  herds  of  cattle 
which  we  saw  in  the  sandy  and  less  valuable  district  behind  us — 
and  that  Hindoostanee  here,  and  not  Bengalee,  begins  to  be  the 
common  speech  of  the  peasantry,  since  the  old  woman  and  this 
man  both  spoke  it  and  conversed  in  it  with  each  other. 

The  boats  had  in  the  mean  time  arrived,  so  that  milk  was  not 
wanted  ; but  the  evening  was  so  fine  that  I continued  to  walk  up 
and  down,  till  Abdullah  besought  me  not  to  take  so  much  exer- 
cise, saying  it  was  that  which  had  turned  my  hair  so  gray  since  my 
arrival  in  India. 

AN  EVENING  WALK  IN  BENGAL. 

Our  task  is  done ! on  Gunga’s  breast 
The  sun  is  sinking  down  to  rest ; 

And,  moored  beneath  the  tamarind  bough, 

Our  bark  has  found  its  harbour  now. 

With  furled  sail,  and  painted  side, 

Behold  the  tiny  frigate  ride. 

Upon  her  deck,  ’mid  charcoal  gleams, 

The  Moslem’s  savoury  supper  steams, 

While  all  apart,  beneath  the  wood. 

The  Hindoo  cooks  his  simpler  food. 

Come  walk  with  me  the  jungle  through  ; 

If  yonder  hunter  told  us  true. 

Far  off,  in  desert  dank  and  rude. 

The  tiger  holds  his  solitude  ; 

Nor  (taught  by  recent  harm  to  shun 
The  thunders  of  the  English  gun,) 

A dreadful  guest  but  rarely  seen. 

Returns  to  scare  the  village  green. 

Come  boldly  on  ! no  venom’d  snake 
Can  shelter  in  so  cool  a brake. 

Child  of  the  sun ! he  loves  to  lie 
’Mid  Nature’s  embers,  parch’d  and  dry. 

There  o’er  some  tower  in  ruin  laid. 

The  peepul  spreads  its  haunted  shade ; 


EVENING  WALK  IN  BENGAL. 


177 


Or  round  a tomb  his  scales  to  wreathe, 

Fit  warder  in  the  gate  of  Death  ! 

Come  on ! Yet  pause ! behold  us  now 
Beneath  the  bamboo’s  arched  bough, 

Where,  gemming  oft  that  sacred  gloom. 

Glows  the  geranium’s  scarlet  bloom,* 

And  winds  our  path  through  many  a bower 
Of  fragrant  tree  and  giant  flower  ; 

The  ceiba’s  crimson  pomp  display’d 
O’er  the  broad  plantain’s  humbler  shade. 

And  dusk  anana’s  prickly  blade; 

While  o’er  the  brake,  so  wild  and  fair. 

The  betel  waves  his  crest  in  air. 

With  pendant  train  and  rushing  wings, 

Aloft  the  gorgeous  peacock  springs ; 

And  he,  the  bird  of  hundred  dyes. 

Whose  plumes  the  dames  of  Ava  prize. 

So  rich  a shade,  so  green  a sod. 

Our  English  fairies  never  trod  ! 

Yet  who  in  Indian  bow’r  has  stood. 

But  thought  on  England’s  “good  green  wood  ?” 
And  bless’d,  beneath  the  palmy  shade. 

Her  hazel  and  her  hawthorn  glade. 

And  breathed  a pray’r,  (how  oft  in  vain  1) 

To  gaze  upon  her  oaks  again  ? 

A truce  to  thought ! the  jackall’s  cry 
Resounds  like  sylvan  revelry  ; 

And  through  the  trees  yon  failing  ray 
Will  scantly  serve  to  guide  our  way. 

Yet  mark ! as  fade  the  upper  skies, 

Each  thicket  opes  ten  thousand  eyes. 

Before,  beside  us,  and  above. 

The  fire-fly  lights  his  lamp  of  love. 

Retreating,  chasing,  sinking,  soaring. 

The  darkness  of  the  copse  exploring  ; 

While  to  this  cooler  air  confest. 

The  broad  Dhatura  bares  her  breast. 

Of  fragrant  scent  and  virgin  white, 

A pearl  around  the  locks  of  night ! 

Still  as  we  pass,  in  softened  hum. 

Along  the  breezy  alleys  come 
The  village  song,  the  horn,  the  drum. 

Still  as  we  pass  from  bush  and  briar. 

The  shrill  cigali  strikes  his  lyre  ; 

And,  what  is  she  whose  liquid  strain 
Thrills  through  yon  copse  of  sugar-cane  ? 

I know  that  soul-entrancing  swell ! 

It  is — it  must  be — Philomel ! 

Enough,  enough,  the  rustling  trees 
Announce  a shower  upon  the  breeze — 

The  flashes  of  the  summer  sky 
Assume  a deeper,  ruddier  dye  ; 

Yon  lamp  that  trembles  on  the  stream. 

From  forth  our  cabin  sheds  its  beam  ; 


* A shrub  whose  deep  scarlet  flowers  very  much  resemble  the  geranium,  and 
thence  called  the  Indian  geranium.— Ed, 

VoL.  I,™23 


( 


178 


ANT-HILLS. 


And  we  must  early  sleep,  to  find 
Betimes  the  morning’s  healthy  wind. 

But,  Oh ! with  thank^ful  hearts  confess 
Ev’n  here  there  may  be  happiness ; 

And  He,  the  bounteous  Sire,  has  given 
His  peace  on  earth — his  hope  of  heaven  ! 

1 wrote  this  endeavouring  to  fancy  that  I was  not  alone.  1 
believe  only  one  note  is  necessary.  The  bird  of  “ hundred  dyes” 
is  the  mucharunga,  “ many  coloured.”  I am  not  sure  whether  I 
mentioned  the  fact  before,  but  1 learned  at  Dacca,  that  while 
we  were  at  peace  with  the  Burmans,  many  traders  used  to  go 
over  all  the  eastern  provinces  of  Bengal,  buying  up  these  beauti- 
ful birds  for  the  Golden  Zennanah ; at  Ummerapoora  it  was  said 
that  they  sometimes  were  worth  a gold  mohur  each. 

August  4. — We  made  a tolerable  progress  the  early  part  of  the 
day,  and  about  ten  arrived  at  the  eastern  or  principal  entrance  of 
the  Sooty  or  Moorshadabad  river.  As  we  passed,  a boat  with 
four  dervises,  sturdy  beggars  enough,  came  after  us  singing.  I 
asked  why  they  did  not  work,  and  was  told  by  Abdullah,  that  it 
was  one  of  the  miseries  of  the  country,  that  they  were  all  a caste 
of  beggars  from  father  to  son,  trained  to  no  labour,  and  even  if 
they  desired  it,  not  likely  to  be  employed  by  any  body.  I gave 
them,  therefore,  a pice  a piece,  for  which  they  were  more  grate- 
ful than  I expected.  This  entrance,  the  Bhagirutty,  is  divided 
by  marshy  islands  from  the  other  at  the  distance  of  about  six 
miles.  After  we  had  loosed  from  the  shore,  a pretty  heavy  gale, 
with  thunder  and  violent  rain,  came  on.  Had  this  occurred  be- 
fore we  set  out,  nothing  but  a pistol  at  Mohammed’s  ear  would 
have  induced  him  to  brave  it ; but  as  it  was,  it  carried  us  at  a 
rattling  rate  beyond  a very  rapid  and  difficult  part  of  the  stream. 
The  banks  here  are  very  ugly  and  miserable,  showing  nothing 
but  reeds.  I here  saw,  for  the  first  time,  a number  of  those  high 
ant-hills,  the  work  of  the  white  ant,  of  which  I had  often  heard. 
Many  of  them  were  five  or  six  feet  high,  and  probably  seven  or 
eight  feet  in  circumference  at  the  base,  partially  overgrown  with 
grass  and  ivy,  and  looking  at  a distance  like  the  stumps  of  decayed 
trees.  I think  it  is  Ctesias,  among  the  Greek  writers,  who  gives 
an  account,  alluded  to  by  Lucian  in  his  “ Cock,”  of  monstrous 
ants  in  India,  as  large  as  foxes.  The  lie  probably  originated  in 
the  stupendous  fabrics  which  they  rear  here,  and  which  certain- 
ly might  be  supposed  to  be  the  work  of  a much  larger  animal 
than  their  real  architect.  The  pyramids,  when  the  comparative 
bulk  of  the  insect  which  reared  them  is  taken  into  the  estimate, 
are  as  nothing  to  the  works  of  the  termites.  The  counterpart  of 
one  of  these  hills  which  1 passed  to-day,  would  be,  if  a nation 
should  set  to  work  to  build  up  an  artificial  Snowdon,  and  bore  it 


INUNDATION. 


79 


full  of  halls  and  galleries.  Our  good  breeze  carried  us  on  till 
about  half-past  four,  when  I saw,  with  a degree  of  pleasure  which 
1 did  not  anticipate,  but  which  arose  no  doubt  from  the  length  of 
time  during  which  1 had  been  accustomed  to  a perfectly  flat  sur- 
face, a range  of  blue  elevations  on  my  right-hand.  At  first  1 
watched  them  with  distrust,  fearing  that  they  were  clouds.  They 
kept  their  ground,  however,  and  1 ran  on  deck  to  ask  about  them, 
and  was  told,  as  1 expected,  that  they  were  the  RajmahM  hills. 
It  is,  1 think,  Jeanie  Deans  who  complains  that,  after  she  lost 
sight  of  Ingleborough  in  her  way  through  Yorkshire,  Nottingham- 
shire, and  Lincolnshire,  “ the  haill  country  seemed  to  have  been 
trenched  and  levelled.”  But  what  would  she  have  said  if  she 
had  traversed  Bengal  ? At  the  place  where  we  stopped  for  the 
night  there  were  some  fine  trees,  but  the  rest  of  the  country,  for 
a considerable  space,  was  mere  sand,  on  which  the  peasants  were 
raising  a few  patches  of  cucumbers  and  pulse.  One  of  these  men 
who  was  pursuing  his  work  by  moonlight,  told  me  that  there  had 
been  a very  large  village  on  this  spot,  with  its  garden,  mango- 
orchards,  meadows,  &c.  ; but  that  the  dreadful  inundation  of  last 
year  swept  away  every  thing,  and  covered  the  place  with  sand,  as 
we  now  saw  it.  I walked  up  and  down  this  scene  of  desolation  for 
some  time,  but  found  nothing  to  mark  that  any  habitation  had  ever 
stood  here.  The  sand  lay  smooth,  yet  wavy  as  we  see  it  on  a 
coast  exposed  to  heavy  seas,  and  there  were  no  marks  of  any 
thing  living  or  having  lived,  except  some  scattered  sculls  and 
bones  of  animals,  probably  brought  from  a distance  by  the  terri- 
ble stream  which  had  blotted  out  and  hidden  the  community  of 
this  place.  Abdullah,  who  joined  me  after  making  some  inqui- 
ries about  our  morrow’s  course,  said  that  the  place  was  very  like 
the  deserts,  not  of  Persia,  which  are  stony,  but  of  the  Arabian 
Irak  and  the  country  near  Bussorah.  He  observed,  naturally 
enough,  that  this  was  a sad  place  to  look  upon,  and  this  as  natu- 
rally brought  on  a conversation  about  God’s  judgments,  Hilleh 
and  the  Birz  ul  Nimrouz,  or  Babylon,  and  Nunya  or  Nineveh. 
He  had  not  seen  the  first,  but  had  heard  of  its  stinking  wells, 
which  burned  like  pitch  when  set  on  fire,”  and  was  much  inte- 
rested to  learn  that  it  was  the  Babylon  mentioned  in  Scripture. 
The  second,  as  well  as  the  tomb  of  the  prophet  “ Yunus”  in  its 
neighbourhood,  he  had  seen,  and  described,  I believe,  accurately, 
as  a small  village  near  Mousel,  chiefly  inhabited  by  Christians,  but 
with  no  conspicuous  remains  of  antiquity,  except  what  is  called 
the  tomb  of  Jonah.  He  was  less  fortunate,  however,  in  his  at- 
tempt to  account  for  the  inundations  of  Gunga,  which  he  ascribed, 
so  far  as  I could  understand  him  at  all,  to  the  combined  influence 
of  the  north  and  south  poles  on  the  mountain  Meru  ! I endea- 
voured to  explain  the  matter  a little  better,  but  could  not 


180 


RUINS  OF  GOUR. 


convince  him  that  the  Ganges  did  not  rise  immediately  under  the 
north  pole.  This  is  orthodox  Hindoo  geography,  and  it  is  curi* 
ous  to  find  that  the  Mussulmans  in  India  have  so  completely 
adopted  it. 

Being  now  in  the  great  road  from  Calcutta  northwards,  the 
number  of  large  vessels  on  the  river  is  very  much  increased.  The 
majestic  stream  of  the  Puddah  offered  few  but  fishing-boats,  but 
here  at  every  point  of  land  we  see  a coppice  of  masts,  waiting 
like  us  for  a wind,  and  many  minutes  seldom  pass  without  other 
vessels,  with  their  masts  down  and  all  made  snug,  drifting  past 
us  do  wn  the  stream.  The  night  was  very  still  and  close,  the  first 
really  oppressive  one  which  I had  felt  since  leaving  the  Matahunga. 

August  5. — We  were  tracked  this  morning  along  ‘‘  a land  which 
the  rivers  had  spoiled,”  and  then  came  to  a “ Mohanna,”  or  chan- 
nel of  the  Moorshedabad  river,  where  we  were  detained  several 
hours  for  want  of  wind  ; about  ten  we  had  a fine  breeze,  which 
carried  us  past  this  difficulty  and  another  of  the  same.  The  ra- 
pidity of  the  stream  in  this  part  is  ascribed  to  the  freshes  from  the 
hills,  which  as  we  approach  them  appear  taller  and  larger.  They 
resemble  in  some  degree,  in  outline,  the  Peckforton  hills  in 
Cheshire,  and  I could  almost  have  fancied  myself  at  one  moment 
on  the  estuary  of  the  Dee,  with  my  back  turned  towards  the  W elch 
mountains,  and  looking  across  the  plain  of  Chester  up  to  Beeston 
and  the  Stannaries.  The  river  is  here  again  divided  by  a string 
of  marshy  islands.  The  country  improved  as  we  advanced,  being 
prettily  dotted  with  small  woods,  and  cultivated  chiefly  with  pulse, 
a crop  which  showed  that  we  were  leaving  Bengal  for  Hindostan. 
It  still,  however,  continued  as  flat  as  possible,  as  if  all  had  been  a 
hay  of  the  sea,  of  which  these  hills  which  we  were  approaching 
were  the  termination.  And  this  at  some  remote  period,  I con- 
ceive, must  have  been  the  case.  Our  advance  up  this  part  of  the 
river,  craves,  I find,  a greater  wariness  in  one  respect  than  at  any 
period  of  our  former  progress,  owing  to  the  number  of  clumsy  and 
ill-managed  pulwars  through  which  we  have  continually  to  jostle 
our  way.  We  have  been  run  foul  of  three  or  four  times  in  the 
course  of  this  morning,  and  though  we  have  received  no  harm, 
have,  I apprehend,  done  some,  though  not  of  any  serious  character. 

We  passed  a manufactory  of  small  rope  on  the  shore,  carried 
on,  as  might  be  expected,  in  the  simplest  manner,  but  the  fabric 
appearing  remarkably  good.  Our  progress  during  the  latter  part 
of  the  day  was  uncomfortable  and  tedious  enough,  and  we  were 
forced  to  stop  just  as  we  had  rounded  the  island  and  opened  on  a 
broad  bay,  on  the  other  side  of  which  was  Rajmahal.  It  was  too 
wet  to  walk,  and  altogether  the  halt  was  very  uncomfortable.  I 
could  not  help  feeling  some  regret  that  I was  to  pass  so  near  the 
ruins  of  Gour  without  visiting  them,  though,  by  all  accounts,  they 


RAJMAHAL. 


181 


are  mere  shapeless  mounds,  covered  with  jungle,  and  haunted, 
as  usual,  by  snakes  and  wild  beasts.  Yet  the  great  antiquity  of 
the  place,  which  is  said  to  be  mentioned  in  the  oldest  Hindoo 
poetry,  its  size,  which  seems  almost  to  have  rivalled  Babylon  or 
Nineveh,  and  the  circumstances  which  led  to  its  abandonment,  are 
all  striking. 

“ It  was  not  in  the  battle,  no  tempest  gave  the  shock.” 

The  same  mighty  river  whose  active,  powers  of  destruction  we 
witnessed  yesterday,  by  a different  process  turned  Gour  into  a 
wilderness.  The  main  advantage  of  its  situation  was,  that  the 
Ganges  rolled  under  its  walls  ; two  hundred  years  ago  the  Ganges 
deserted  its  old  bed  for  that  which  it  at  present  occupies,  six  or 
seven  miles  south  of  the  former,  and  Gour  began  to  decay.  The 
governors  of  Bahar  and  Bengal  deserted  it  for  other  residences,  and 

“ Now,  pointed  at  by  wisdom  and  by  wealth, 

Stands,  in  the  wilderness  of  wo,  Masar  1” 

It  is  impossible  to  pass  it  without  recollecting  that  what  Gour  is, 
Calcutta  may  any  day  become,  unless  the  river  in  its  fresh  chan- 
nel should  assume  a more  fatal  direction,  and  sweep  in  its  new 
track  our  churches,  markets,  and  palaces,  (by  the  way  of  the  Loll 
Diggy  and  the  Balighat,)  to  that  salt-water  lake  which  seems  its 
natural  estuary.  The  length  of  the  ruins  of  Gour,  as  marked  on 
Rennelks  map,  is  eighteen  miles,  and  their  breadth  six. 

August  6. — After  passing  for  some  time  through  a channel  be- 
tween a newly-formed  island  and  the  south-western  shore,  we 
emerged  on  the  broad  river  again,  and  found  ourselves  close  upon 
the  town  of  Rajmahal ; apparently  not  much  of  a place,  but  very 
prettily  situated,  though  still  on  the  same  perfect  level,  the  hills, 
to  my  surprise,  being  yet  at  a considerable  distance.  I had  always 
understood,  and  the  maps  had  confirmed  the  idea,  that  the  town 
was  at  their  foot ; and  I could  now  easily  believe  that  I had  un- 
derrated their  size,  when  I saw  what  an  interval  still  separated  me 
from  them,  observing  how  indistinct  the  objects  on  them  still  ap- 
peared, and  knowing  how  much  apparent  distance  is  abridged  by 
the  brilliant  sun  and  clear  skies  of  India.  The  banks  of  the  river 
are,  however,  here  a little  higher  than  I have  seen  lately,  and  a 
few  boulder-stones,  and  small  masses  of  granite  may  be  observed 
here  and  there,  brought  probably  by  water  from  the  hills. 

As  soon  as  it  was  cool,  I walked  to  see  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
palace  built  by  Sultan  Sujah,  brother  to  the  emperor  Aurungzebe, 
in  1630.  I ascended  what,  for  Bengal,  was  really  a steep  place, 
passing  a little  brook,  in  which  I almost  fancied  I saw  gravel,  a 
phenomenon  which  I had  not  seen  since  I left  England.  The 


182  RUINS. 

path  wound  among  cottages,  toddy  palms,  and  other  fruit  trees,  as 
well  as  some  little  ruinous  mosques,  and  a cutcherry,  which  struck 
me  as  simple  and  elegant.  It  was  merely  a thatched  shed,  like  an 
Otaheitan  house,  with  an  earthenware  ornament  at  each  end  of 
its  ridge-pole  ; hut  it  was  supported  on  a basement  of  stone, 
(another  novelty,)  with  some  broad,  easy  steps,  and  a small  raised 
platform  in  its  centre.  Its  situation,  surrounded  as  it  was  by 
trees,  reminded  me  of  the  Crimea,  or  might  have  been  such  a 
place  as  Samuel  or  Saul  sate  to  do  judgment  in,  in  Ramah.  From 
hence  we  ascended  a little  further  to  a large  court,  surrounded  by 
ruinous  buildings,  some  of  them  not  inelegant ; but  of  all,  the 
desolation  was  too  recent, — the  beams  and  pillars  of  the  verandahs 
remaining  naked  but  entire, — to  be  beautiful  or  picturesque  ruins. 
It  looked  like  a great  house  which  had  been  lately  burned.  I was 
a little  at  a loss  to  find  my  way  through  the  ruins  and  young 
jungle,  when  a man  came  up,  and  in  Persian,  with  many  low  bows, 
offered  his  services.  He  led  me  into  a sort  of  second  court,  a little 
lower  on  the  hill,  where  1 saw  two  European  tombs,  and  then  to 
three  very  beautiful  arches  of  black  slate,  on  pillars  of  the  same, 
leading  into  a small  but  singularly  elegant  hall,  opening  immedi- 
ately on  the  river,  though  a considerable  height  above  it,  through 
three  similar  arches  to  those  by  which  we  entered.  The  roof  was 
vaulted  with  stone,  delicately  carved,  and  the  walls  divided  by 
gothic  tracery  into  pannels,  still  retaining  traces  of  gilding  and 
Arabic  inscriptions.  At  each  end  of  this  beautiful  room  was  a 
gothic  arch,  in  like  manner  of  slate,  leading  into  two  small  square 
apartments,  ornamented  in  the  same  way,  and  also  opening  on  the 
river.  The  centre  room  might  be  thirty  feet  long,  each  of  the 
others  fifteen  square.  For  their  size,  I cannot  conceive  more 
delightful  apartments.  The  view  is  very  fine.  The  river,  as  if 
incensed  at  having  been  obliged  to  make  a circuit  round  the  bar- 
rier of  the  hills,  and  impeded  here  again  by  the  rocks  under  the 
castle,  sweeps  round  this  corner  with  exceeding  violence,  roaring 
and  foaming  like  a gigantic  Dee.  The  range  of  hills  runs  to  the 
left  hand,  beautiful,  blue  and  woody,  and  1 quite  repented  the 
injustice  I had  done  them  in  likening  them  to  the  Peckforton  hills. 
They  do  not  fall  short  of  the  average  of  Welch  mountains.  On 
leaving  this  room  we  turned  to  the  right  upon  a short  but  striking 
terrace,  carried  on  the  same  level,  and  terminating  with  a sort  of 
bastion,  which  seems  as  if  it  had  been  the  foundation  of  a kiosk, 
which  by  its  projection  affords  the  most  favourable  view  of  the 
whole  building,  and  the  fine  range  of  hills  beyond  it.  What  I was 
shown  after  this  would  hardly  bear  looking  at.  It  consisted  of  a 
dining-room,  about  thirty  feet  by  twenty,  lined  with  white  marble, 
with  many  remains  of  gilding  and  inscriptions  in  the  Cufic  cha- 
racter ; a small,  but  pretty  mosque,  in  a romantic  situation,  and  a 


RUINS, 


183 


handsome  gateway,  but  none  of  them  well  worth  going  out  of  one’s 
way  for.  I was,  however,  much  pleased  with  a ruined  caravan- 
serai, to  which  1 was  next  conducted,  and  which  is  a noble  spe- 
cimen of  that  style  of  building,  with  two  fine  gothic  gates,  opposite 
to  each  other,  a great  court,  as  large  at  least  as  Peckwater 
Quadrangle,  surrounded  with  cloisters,  and  the  whole  in  that  state 
of  verdant  decay  which  is  most  agreeable  to  an  artist’s  eye.  I 
was  here  going  to  offer  my  self-appointed  cicerone  some  trifling 
payment,  but  he  stopped  me,  by  putting  a petition  into  my  hands, 
with  the  humble  request  that  I would  give  or  send  it,  when  I got 
to  Boglipoor,  to  Mr.  Chalmers,  the  senior  judge.  I said  I was 
not  acquainted  with  Mr.  Chalmers,  and  that  knowing  nothing  of 
him,  (the  petitioner,)  I could  not  recommend  his  case.  But  he 
said  that  all  he  wished  was,  that  his  case  might  meet  Mr.  Chal- 
mer’s  eye,  without  going  through  the  post-office  here.  As  I knew 
not  what  reason  he  might  have  for  the  request,  I told  him  I would 
either  give  or  send  his  paper  to  the  judge,  but  could  do  no  more. 

In  my  return  to  the  river  I met  a large  party  from  one  out  of 
three  budgerows  which  arrived  at  the  same  time  with  my  pinnace. 
They  had  been  twenty-four  days  coming  from  Calcutta,  had  had 
a disastrous  voyage,  having  seen  their  baggage-boat  go  down  be- 
fore their  eyes ; and  their  stock  of  European  comforts  being  nearly 
exhausted,  I was  glad  to  be  able  to  supply  them  with  some  trifles 
out  of  my  store,  as  also  to  lend  them  my  peon  to  show  them  the 
way  to  the  ruins.  We  had  a smart  storm  of  wind  and  rain  in  the 
night,  and  when  1 looked  out  in  the  morning  of  August  7, 1 feared 
that  Mohammed  would  be  afraid  to  launch  from  the  shore.  He, 
however,  ventured,  but  owing  to  the  weight  and  size  of  the  ves- 
sel, and  in  part  to  the  tardiness  of  the  Clashees  in  getting  up  the 
sails,  we  were  driven  by  the  eddy  among  the  rocks  and  the  ruins 
which  had  fallen  from  the  old  palace  into  the  river,  and  remained 
beating  for  five  or  six  minutes  before  we  were  disengaged.  I was 
disappointed  to  find  that  our  approach  to  the  hills  was  still  to  be 
delayed,  the  wind  being  unfavourable  to  advancing  directly  up 
the  river.  We  were  forced  to  proceed  along  a nullah  winding 
through  marshes.  We  had  in  fact  our  backs  to  the  hills,  and 
should  not  have  come  near  them  again  till  near  their  termination, 
had  I not  told  the  Serang  1 wanted  to  see  Sicligully,  which  by  his 
own  statement  was  just  as  near  as  the  course  he  wished  to  pursue. 
We  therefore  turned  short  to  our  left  hand,  and  came  down  right 
on  Boglipoor,  enjoying  a noble  view  of  the  hills,  which  in  extent, 
indeed,  as  in  height  as  well  as  beauty,  far  exceeded  what  I had 
expected.  They  rise  from  the  flat  surface  of  Bengal  as  out  of  the 
sea ; a large  waterfall  is  seen  from  a very  considerable  distance, 
tumbling  down  the  mountain  in  several  successive  cascades,  that 
nearest  the  plain  of  very  considerable  height. 


184 


PUHARREES. 


The  people  of  these  mountains,  and  of  all  the  hilly  country  be- 
tween this  place  and  Burdwan,  are  a race  distinct  from  those  of 
the  plain,  in  features,  language,  civilization,  and  religion.  They 
have  no  castes,  care  nothing  for  the  Hindoo  deities,  and  are  even 
said  to  have  no  idols.  They  are  still  more  naked  than  the  Hin- 
doo peasants,  and  live  chiefly  by  the  chace,  for  which  they  are 
provided  with  bows  and  arrows,  few  of  them  having  fire-arms. 
Their  villages  are  very  small  and  wretched,  hut  they  pay  no  taxes, 
and  live  under  their  own  chiefs  under  British  protection.  A 
deadly  feud  existed,  till  within  the  last  forty  years,  between  them 
and  the  cultivators  of  the  neighbouring  lowlands,  they  being  un- 
tamed thieves  and  murderers,  continually  making  forays,  and  the 
Mohammedan  Zemindars  killing  them  like  mad  dogs,  or  tigers, 
whenever  they  got  them  within  gun-shot.  An  excellent  young 
man,  of  the  name  of  Cleveland,  judge  and  magistrate  of  Boglipoor, 
undertook  to  remedy  this  state  of  things.  He  rigorously  forbade, 
and  promptly  punished,  all  violence  from  the  Zemindars  (who 
were  often  the  aggressors)  against  the  Puharree  (Mountaineers ;) 
he  got  some  of  these  last  to  enter  his  service,  and  took  pains  to 
attach  them  to  him,  and  to  learn  their  language.  He  made  shooting 
parties  into  the  mountains,  treating  kindly  all  whom  he  could^  get 
to  approach  him,  and  established  regular  bazars  at  the  villages  near- 
est to  them,  where  he  encouraged  them  to  bring  down  for  sale 
game,  millet,  wax,  hides,  and  honey,  all  which  their  hills  produce 
in  great  abundance.  He  gave  them  wheat  and  barley  for  seed, 
and  encouraged  their  cultivation  by  the  assurance  that  they  should 
not  be  taxed,  and  that  nobody  but  their  own  chiefs  should  be  their 
Zemindars.  And  to  please  them  still  further,  and  at  the  same 
time  to  keep  them  in  effectual  order,  and  to  bring  them  more 
into  contact  with  their  civilized  neighbours,  he  raised  a corps  of 
sepoys  from  among  them,  which  he  stationed  at  Sicligully,  and 
which  enabled  him  not  only  to  protect  the  peaceable  part  of 
them,  but  to  quell  any  disturbances  which  might  arise,  with  a 
body  of  troops  accustomed  to  mountain  warfare.  This  good  and 
wise  man  died  in  1784,  in  the  twenty-ninth  year  of  his  age.  A 
monument  was  raised  to  his  memory  near  Boglipoor,  at  the  joint 
expense  of  the  highland  Chiefs  and  lowland  Zemindars,  which 
still  remains  in  good  repair,  having  been  endowed  by  them  with 
some  lands  for  its  maintenance.  A garrison  of  these  Mountaineers, 
which  was  then  kej)t  up  at  Sicligully,  has  been  since  discontinued ; 
the  corps  being  considerably  reduced  in  numbers,  and  partly 
quartered  at  Boglipoor,  partly,  during  the  late  call  for  men,  at 
Berhampoor.  Archdeacon  Corrie’s  principal  business  at  Bogli- 
poor was  to  learn  whether  any  encouragement  existed  for  forming 
a mission  among  these  people.  Their  being  free  from  the  yoke 


MUSSULMAN  TOMB. 


185 


of  caste  seems  to  make  them  less  unlikely  to  receive  the  Gospel, 
than  the  bigoted  inhabitants  of  the  plains. 

Sicligully  is  a little  town,  or  rather  village,  of  straw  huts,  with 
the  ruinous  bungalow  and  ruinous  barracks  of  Mr.  Cleveland’s 
corps,  at  the  base  of  a high  rocky  eminence  at  an  angle  of  the 
Ganges,  and  commanding  a fine  view  of  two  ranges  of  hills,  that 
which  we  had  been  approaching,  and  another  which  now  opened 
on  us.  The  shore  is  rocky,  and  the  country  rises  gradually  in  a suc- 
cession of  hill  and  dale,  to  the  mountains,  distant  about  three  or  four 
miles.  The  rocky  eminence  which  I mentioned  is  quite  insulated, 
and  rather  higher  than  the  Red  Castle  Cliff  at  Hawkstone,  which, 
from  the  fine  timber  growing  on  and  round  it,  it  k good  deal  re- 
sembles. I saw  some  ruins  on  the  top,  and  concluded  a fort  had 
been  there,  but  on  inquiry  found  that  they  v/ere  the  remains  of 
the  tomb  of  a Mussulman  saint,  one  of  the  conquerors  of  Bengal, 
and  as  devout  as  he  was  valiant. 

I climbed  up  the  hill  by  a pretty  good,  though  steep  winding 
path,  ending  in  a flight  of  steps,  in  the  hope  of  getting  a noble 
prospect,  but  I found  the  jungle  so  thick  all  round  the  edge  of  the 
rock,  that  I could  only  have  here  and  there  a view  of  the  blue 
summits  of  the  hills,  and  nothing  of  which  I could  make  a sketch. 
The  tomb  itself,  however,  is  well  worth  the  trouble  of  climbing 
the  hill ; it  stands  on  a platform  of  rock,  surrounded  by  a battle- 
men  ted  wall,  with  a gate  very  prettily  ornamented,  and  rock 
benches  all  round  to  sit  or  pray  on.  The  “ chamber  of  the 
tomb”  is  square,  with  a dome  roof  very  neatly  built,  covered  with 
excellent  chunam,  which,  though  three  hundred  years  old,  re- 
mains entire,  and  having  within  it  a carved  stone  mound,  like 
the  hillocks  in  an  English  church-yard,  where  sleeps  the  scourge 
of  the  idolaters.  The  ancient  honours  of  the  lamp  kept  burning, 
&c.,  have  long  been  discontinued,  but  I was  told  that  it  was  the 
general  opinion  both  of  Mussulmans  and  Hindoos,  that  every 
Thursday  night  a tiger  comes,  couches  close  to  the  grave,  and 
' remains  there  till  morning.  This  is  a very  picturesque  legend, 
and  it  is  one  which  it  was  not  dangerous  to  invent,  since  it  would 
be  difficult  to  persuade  either  Mussulman  or  Hindoo  to  watch  all 
night  in  a tomb,  to  verify  the  fact  of  such  a visitant.  Either  the 
tiger,  however,  or  some  pious  Mussulman,  keeps  the  tomb  very 
clean,  for  both  chamber  and  platform  I found  well  swept,  and  free 
from  the  dung  of  bats,  or  any  other  animal,  an  attention  which  I 
have  not  seen  paid  to  other  ruins  in  this  country. 

As  I went  up  the  hill,  and  while  still  amid  the  houses  of  the 
village,  one  of  the  Puharree  was  pointed  out  to  me, — a middle 
sized,  well  made  young  man,  very  black,  but  easily  distinguishable 
from  the  Hindoos  by  his  long  narrow  eyes,  broadish  face,  and  flat 
nose.  His  hair  hung  very  thick,  wild,  and  long,  about  his  ears 
VoL.  I. — 24 


186 


PEER  POINTEE. 


and  shoulders,  but  he  was  unarmed,  and  had  nothing  wild  or 
fierce  in  his  appearance.  I asked  him  if  henvas  a Puharree,  and 
he  readily  answered  in  the  affirmative,  so  that  some  of  them  at 
least  understand  Hindoostanee.  I have  a good  chance  of  seeing 
many  more  between  this  place  and  Boglipoor. 

After  this  I rambled  for  some  time  on  the  hill  at  the  back  of  the 
town,  which  is  all  uncultivated  except  in  a few  patches.  It  is 
rocky,  and  covered  with  a good  turf,  and  1 know  not  why,  except 
that  I had  been  thinking  of  Bodryddan  all  morning,  put  me  in 
mind  of  the  crag  at  the  back  of  Dyserth.  It  is,  however,  not  so 
steep,  nor,  perhaps,  so  high  as  the  last,  and  is  much  more  woody, 
having  many  fine  trees  and  a great  many  bushes,  among  which  two 
jackalls  passed  us,  with  as  much  fearless  familiarity  as  dogs  would 
have  done.  The  walk  was  a very  pleasant  one,  and  I was  glad  to 
find  that  I can  scramble  here  as  well,  and  I think  with  as  little  fa- 
tigue as  in  England.  I had  one  warning,  however,  to  walk  more 
warily  in  this  country  than  in  my  own,  which  will  not  be  thrown 
away  upon  me : wishing  to  get  by  a near  way  to  the  river  side,  I 
passed  down  through  the  jungle  by  a narrow  gully,  which  had,  I 
apprehend,  been  a water-course.  I had  not,  however,  gone  far 
before  a close  and  strangely  noisome  smell  of  confined  air  and 
decayed  vegetables  drove  me  up  again,  and  almost  made  me  sick. 
It  did  me  no  harm,  but  1 shall  keep  away  from  all  such  dens  in 
future. 

A number  of  alligators  were  swimming  all  evening  round  my 
boat,  lifting  from  time  to  time  their  long  black  heads  and  black 
fore  feet  above  the  water.  The  expanse  of  the  Ganges  is  at  this 
season  truly  magnificent,  and  being  confined  on  one  side  by  rocks, 
it  seems  to  spread  itself  so  much  the  more  proudly  on  the  low 
grounds  on  the  north-east  bank. 

August  8. — I was  disappointed  to  find  that  the  wind  was  too 
weak  this  morning  to  contend  with  the  rapids  in  the  direct  line 
of  the  river,  and  that  we  must  again  go  away  from  these  beautiful 
hills,  and  enter  the  nullah  which  we  had  traversed  the  evening 
before.  Still,  however,  we  had  a fine  though  more  distant  view 
of  the  range,  but  I was  vexed  to  miss  the  celebrated  pass  of 
Terriagully.  About  two  o’clock  we  returned  across  a very  large 
jeel  to  the  main  stream  of  the  river  at  Peer  Pointee,  but  the  chain 
of  mountains  was  now  fairly  left  behind  us,  and  we  were  no  longer 
in  Bengal. 

Peer  Pointee  is  at  the  foot  of  a detached  hill,  which  I should 
have  admired  in  Bengal,  but  I had  just  been  looking  at  something 
better.  I was  glad  to  observe,  as  we  turned  its  promontory,  that 
there  were  yet  some  eminences  beyond  it,  and  that  we  were  not 
entering  another  so  complete  a plain  as  that  enormous  one  which 
we  had  just  traversed.  Peer  Pointee,  Father  or  St.  Pointee,  was 


CAVE. 


187 


the  name  of  a Mussulman  saint,  who  lies  buried  here.  His  tomb, 
resembling  that  at  Sicligully,  though  less  picturesquely  situated, 
stands  on  a little  cliff  above  the  river,  with  some  fine  bamboos 
hanging  over  it.  1 was  struck  both  yesterday  and  to-day  with 
the  beauty  of  the  bamboos  on  this  rocky  soil,  which  I should  not 
have  supposed  favourable  to  their  growth;  but  on  inquiry,  I was 
told  that  though  the  plant  in  a warm  dry  soil  never  grew  so  tall 
as  in  a moist  one,  yet  they  are  well  known  to  be  stouter,  healthier, 
and  better  timber  in  the  former  than  in  the  latter,  so  that  the 
bamboo  of  such  situations  is  always  preferred  for  spears,  oars, 
masts,  &c. 

We  halted  for  the  night  in  a very  pretty  and  pleasant  place. 
On  the  left  hand  was  a beautiful  green  meadow,  ascending  with 
a gentle  slope  to  a grove  of  tall  trees,  in  front  of  which  was  a 
pagoda,  so  like  an  English  church,  that  1 was  tempted  to  believe 
it  was  really  taken  from  some  of  the  models  which  the  Christians 
have  given  them.  On  one  side  of  this,  and  just  in  front  of  the 
vessel  as  it  lay,  was  a high  woody  promontory,  jutting  into  the 
river,  among  the  trees  of  which  other  buildings  or  ruins  showed 
themselves.  Beyond,  and  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  rose  some  high 
naked  rocks,  forming  some  rapids  which  are  dangerous  to  pass  at 
this  season.  As  soon  as  1 had  assented  to  his  stopping,  Moham- 
med begged  leave  to  show  me  a wonderful  cave  in  the  hill  before 
us,  of  which  nobody  had  ever  seen  the  end.  I am  not  curious  in 
caves,  unless  they  are  very  fine  and  extraordinary  indeed,  but 
went,  in  the  hope  that  I should  at  least  see  something  interesting 
by  the  way.  I scrambled  up  the  hill,  followed  by  about  half  a 
dozen  of  the  boatmen,  by  a rugged  path,  such  as  might  be  ex- 
pected, till  pretty  near  the  top,  where  they  introduced  me  to 
certainly  a larger  and  finer  cave  than  1 had  anticipated,  in  a lime- 
stone rock,  overhung  with  ivy  and  peepul-trees  in  a very  graceful 
and  picturesque  manner.  The  entrance  was  rude  but  large,  and 
it  has,  I suspect,  been  a quarry  for  lime-stone,  or  at  least  enlarged 
' for  that  purpose,  the  apartments  within  branching  off  two  or  three 
ways,  and  bearing,  so  far  as  I could  perceive  by  the  imperfect 
light,  marks  of  art.  There  is  also  a sort  of  shallow  cistern  cut 
in  the  rock,  which  seems  very  like  a place  for  making  chunam. 
The  air  had  every  appearance  of  being  perfectly  fresh  and  plea- 
sant, and  I should  have  liked  to  explore  it ; but  we  had  no  flam- 
beaus ; candles  would  soon  have  been  extinguished  by  the  water 
which  dropped  very  fast  from  the  roof,  and  I knew  too  much  of 
caves  to  expect  to  find  any  thing  in  this  worth  catching  cold  for. 
I therefore  declined  the  offer  of  one  of  the  dandees  to  run  to  the 
village  to  fetch  “ Mussauls,”  (torches,)  much  to  their  regret. 

I was  told  that  there  were  many  other  very  pretty  religious 
places  about  the  rock,  to  which  I desired  Mohammed  to  lead  me. 


188 


CAVE. 


He  took  me  round  the  base  of  the  hill,  and  then  showed  the  way 
up  a sort  of  ladder,  half  natural  of  roots  of  trees,  and  of  rocks, 
half  artificial,  where  the  stone  had  been  cut  away  into  rude  steps, 
to  a small  rocky  platform,  half  way  up  the  cliff,  facing  the  river. 
There  were  some  other  small  caves,  evidently  the  w^orks  of  art, 
with  low  doors,  like  ovens,  and  some  rude  carving  over  and  round 
them.  I crept  into  one,  and  found  it  a little  hermitage,  about 
twelve  feet  wide  by  eight,  having  at  each  end  a low  stone  couch, 
and  opposite  the  entrance  a sort  of  bracket,  either  for  a lamp  or 
an  idol.  The  boatmen,  on  my  coming  out,  eagerly  crowded  in, 
hut  seemed  disappointed  to  find  nothing  more.  They  had  heard, 
it  seems,  that  the  cavern  above  communicated  with  one  of  these 
recesses,  and  as  we  went  along,  kept  peeping,  as  English  school- 
boys or  seamen  might  have  done,  into  every  hole  and  corner  of 
the  cliff,  in  the  hopes  of  verifying  the  report. 

I climbed  from  this  place  a few  steps  higher  to  another  and 
larger  platform,  with  a low  wall  round  it.  Here  I found  two  little 
temples  to  Siva  and  to  Kali,  kept  by  an  old  “ Gossain,”  (or 
Hindoo  hermit,)  with  two  disciples,  one  a grown  man,  the  other 
a boy.  The  old  man  had  long  white  hair  and  beard,  and  was 
sitting  naked,  with  his  hands  joined  and  his  eyes  half  shut,  amid 
the  breezes  of  the  river.  The  boy  was  near  him,  and  the  man, 
on  hearing  our  voices,  had  got  up  in  a hurry,  and  begun  to  mur- 
mur prayers,  and  pour  water  over  the  lingam.  A small  gratuity, 
however,  brought  him  back  to  the  civilities  of  this  world,  and  he 
showed  me  not  only  Siva’s  symbol,  but  Kali,  with  her  black  face, 
scull  chaplet,  and  many  hands.  He  also  showed  me  the  remains 
of  several  other  images,  cut  on  the  face  of  the  rock,  but  which 
had  been  broken  by  the  Mussulman  conquerors.  Under  these 
last  were  two  small  holes  like  those  below,  which  they  told  me 
were,  in  fact,  their  lodgings.  I asked  if  they  knew  any  thing 
about  the  cave  on  the  other  side  of  the  hill ; on  which  the  old 
gossain,  with  an  air  of  much  importance,  said,  that  nobody  had 
ever  seen  its  end ; that  2000  years  ago  a certain  Raja  had  desired 
to  explore  it,  and  set  out  with  10,000  men,  100,000  torches,  and 
100,000  measures  of  oil,  but  that  he  could  not  succeed  ; and,  if  1 
understood  him  rightly,  neither  he  nor  his  army  ever  found  their 
way  back  again ! These  interminable  caves  are  of  frequent 
occurrence  among  the  common  people  of  every  country.  But 
the  centenary  and  millesimal  way  in  which  the  Hindoos  express 
themselves,  puts  all  European  exaggeration  to  the  blush.  Judg- 
ing from  the  appearance  of  the  cave,  and  the  size  of  the  hill  which 
contains  it,  I have  no  doubt  that  a single  candle,  well  managed, 
would  more  than  light  a man  to  its  end  and  back  again.  A little 
beyond  these  temples,  descending  by  a similar  stair,  is  a small 
village  inhabited  chiefly  by  religious  beggars  of  the  same  descrip- 


( 


WATCHMEN.  . 189 

tion,  and  a very  curious  little  hermitage  or  temple,  built  of  brick, 
in  the  hollow  of  a huge  decayed  peepul  tree,  in  a beautifully 
romantic  situation,  where  the  Ganges  runs  roaring  through  the 
rocks  with  great  noise  and  violence.  Mohammed,  who  was 
greatly  pleased  with  the  interest  I took  in  his  curiosities,  now  told 
me  there  was  nothing  more  to  see,  and  I returned,  extremely 
amused  and  gratified,  by  the  light  of  a fine  moon. 

Abdullah,  on  my  expressing  a wish  I had  had  a torch  to  explore 
the  cave,  said  that  he  had  never  liked  caves  since  he  saw  the  won- 
derful one  of  Secunderie  in  Persia,  which  he  visited  with  Sir  Gore 
Ousley  and  Mr.  Morier.  He  said  it  was  a very  fine  and  lofty  cave, 
but  after  they  had  got  down  to  a certain  level,  the  poisonous  air 
rose  as  high  as  their  knees  first,  and  afterwards  their  breasts,  that 
a fowl  held  there  died  immediately,  and  if  a man  had  knelt  or 
fallen  down,  he  must  have  died  too.  I thought  of  Legh  and  his 
companions.  But  in  the  sort  of  cave  I had  just  left,  there  was,  1 
conceive,  no  danger  of  the  kind.  The  name  of  this  interesting 
spot  is  ‘‘  Puttur  Gotta,”  I suppose  from  “ Puttur,”  a rock  or  stone, 
evidently  the  same  word  with  “ petra,”  or  “ petros.” 

Sunday^  August  9. — 1 had  flattered  myself  till  within  these  few 
days  that  I should  have  passed  this  day  at  Boglipoor;  and  I might 
have  done  so,  had  it  not  been  for  the  unlucky  detention  between 
Bogwangola  and  the  Moorshedabad  river.  As  it  was,  the  poor 
men  had  not  only  a day  of  labour,  but  of  hard  labour,  the  wind 
failing  us  very  soon  after  setting  out. 

The  dry  land  which  we  passed  was  chiefly  bare  of  wood,  and 
cultivated  with  millet,  pulse,  and  Indian  corn.  Each  quillet  of 
this  last  had  its  little  stage  and  shed  for  the  watchman  to  scare 
away  the  birds,  “ with  sling  and  shout,”  as  mentioned  in  Kehama. 
I wondered  to  see  so  many  when  a quarter  of  the  num*ber  would 
have  been  amply  sufiicient,  and  asked  why  they  did  not  take  it 
by  turns,  one  or  two  at  a time,  to  watch  the  whole  field.  The 
answer  was,  that  they  could  not  trust  each  other : surely  an  un- 
' favourable  trait  in  the  popular  character.  What  wood  there  is, 
is,  I think,  of  finer  quality  than  that  of  Bengal,  consisting  of  large 
round-topped  trees,  peepul  and  tamarind,  with  an  underwood  of 
bamboo ; and  though  the  soil  seemed  fertile,  there  were  very  large 
and  numerous  herds  of  cattle,  of  a better  size  and  figure  than  those 
which  I had  been  accustomed  to  see.  There  were  an  unusual 
number  of  hurgilas,  and  a good  many  vultures  on  the  banks. 
Some  of  our  dandees  passing  through  a field  of  Indian  corn, 
plucked  two  or  three  of  the  ears,  certainly  not  enough  to  consti- 
tute a theft,  or  even  a trespass.  Two  of  the  men,  however,  who 
were  watching,  ran  after  them,  not  as  the  Bengalees  would  have 
done,  to  complain  to  me  with  joined  hands,  but  with  stout  bam- 
boos, prepared  to  do  themselves  justice,  “ par  voye  de  faict.” 


190 


BOGLIPOOR— PUHARREE  SCHOOL. 


The  men  escaped  by  swimming  to  the  boat,  but  one  of  my  ser- 
vants called  out  to  them, — “ Aha  ! Dandee  folk,  take  care  ! you 
are  now  in  Hindostan ! the  people  of  this  country  know  well  how 
to  fight,  and  are  not  afraid!” 

The  peasants  here  all  walk  with  sticks  as  tall  as  themselves, 
and  wear  black,  rough-looking  blankets,  thrown  over  their  heads 
and  shoulders.  They  are,  I think,  a more  manly-looking  race 
than  the  Bengalees,  or  at  least  the  length  and  thickness  of  their 
beards,  and  their  dark  Circassian  mantles,  give  them  that  appear- 
ance. 

There  are,  I think,  more  buffaloes  in  proportion  seen  in  Bahar 
than  Bengal ; but  the  number  of  cattle  of  all  kinds  is  certainly 
greater. 

Our  day’s  course  had  hitherto  lain  through  jeels  and  nullahs, 
and  we  had  some  little  difficulties  and  delays  in  getting  back  to 
the  Ganges,  and  afterwards  from  the  Ganges  to  the  branch  on 
which  Boglipoor  stands.  We  could  not  reach  this  place,  but 
stopped  short  of  it  at  a rather  pretty  village,  named  Tingypoor, 
with  some  green,  English-looking  meadows,  hedges  of  cactus,  and 
tall,  round-topped  trees. 

August  10. — I arrived  at  Boglipoor,  or  Bhaugulpoor,  about 
seven  o’clock  in  the  morning,  and  found,  to  my  great  joy,  my 
friends  the  Corries  still  there,  established  very  comfortably  in  the 
circuit  house  (a  bungalow  provided  in  each  of  the  minor  stations 
for  the  district  judges  when  on  their  circuit),  which  had  been  lent 
them  by  the  judge  and  magistrate  Mr.  Chalmers.  I breakfasted 
with  them,  and  went  afterwards  with  Mr.  Chalmers  to  see  the 
objects  principally  worth  notice, — the  gaol,  a very  neat  and  cre- 
ditable building,  with  no  less  than  six  wards  for  the  classification 
of  the  prisoners,  Mr.  Cleveland’s  house  and  monument,  and  a 
school  established  for  the  Puharrees  by  Lord  Hastings.  Mr. 
Cleveland’s  monument  is  in  the  form  of  a Hindoo  mut,  in  a pretty 
situation  on  a green  hill.  The  land  with  which  it  was  endowed, 
is  rented  by  Government,  and  the  cutcherry,  magistrate’s  house, 
circuit  house,  &c.  are  built  on  it,  the  rent  being  duly  appropriated 
to  the  repair  of  the  building.  As  being  raised  to  the  memory  of 
a Christian,  this  last  is  called  by  the  natives  “ Grige,”  (Church,) 
and  they  still  meet  once  a year  in  considerable  numbers,  and  have 
a handsome  “ Poojah,”  or  religious  spectacle  in  honour  of  his 
memory. 

The  school  is  adjoining  to  the  lines,  and  occupies  a large  and 
neat  bungalow,  one  room  in  which  is  the  lodging  of  the  school- 
master, a very  handsome  and  intelligent  half-caste  youth;  the 
other,  with  a large  verandah  all  round,  was,  when  I saw  it,  filled 
with  Puharree  sepoys  and  their  sons,  who  are  all  taught  to  read, 
write,  and  cypher  in  the  Kythee  character,  which  is  that  used  by 


PUHARREE  SCHOOL. 


191 


the  lower  classes  in  this  district  for  their  common  intercourse, 
accounts,  &c.  and  differs  from  the  Devanagree  about  as  much  as 
the  written  character  of  western  Europe  does  from  its  printed. 
The  reason  alleged  for  giving  this  character  the  preference  is  its 
utility  in  common  life,  but  this  does  not  seem  a good  reason  for 
teaching  it  only,  or  even  for  beginning  with  it.  No  increase  of 
knowledge,  or  enlargement  of  mind,  beyond  the  power  of  keep- 
ing their  accounts  and  writing  a shop-bill,  can  be  expected  from 
it,  inasmuch  as  there  is  no  book  whatever  printed  in  it,  except 
Mr.  Rowe’s  spelling-book,  and  no  single  Hindoo  work  of  any 
value  or  antiquity  written  in  it.  I urged  this  to  the  school- 
master, who  said  that  by  and  by,  when  they  had  made  some  pro- 
gress in  the  Kythee,  he  might  teach  them  the  Nagree,  but  they 
might,  I am  convinced,  easily  learn  both  together,  or  if  one  at  a 
time,  then  the  printed  character,  as  simpler,  is  to  be  preferred. 
In  the  Kythee  I heard  several,  both  men  and  boys,  read  fluently, 
and  I could  understand  their  Hindoostanee  very  well.  They  are 
described  as  quick  and  intelligent,  fond  of  learning,  and  valuing 
themselves  on  their  acquirements.  This  school  was  originally 
set  on  foot  by  Mr.  Cleveland,  but  till  Lord  Hastings’  visit  had 
been  shamefully  neglected  by  his  successors  in  office.  It  was 
revived  by  Lord  Hastings,  and  is  now  very  carefully  and  judi- 
ciously attended  to  by  the  adjutant.  Captain  Graham,  an  intelligent 
Scots  officer,  on  whom  the  whole  management  of  the  corps  has 
for  the  last  five  years  devolved,  the  commanding  officer.  Captain 
Montgomerie,  being  in  the  last  stage  of  a decline.  The  corps 
consisted  originally  of  1300  men,  w^ho  for  many  years  were  armed 
with  their  country  weapons,  the  bow  and  arrow.  And  it  is  an 
instance  of  Cleveland’s  sound  judgment  and  discrimination,  that 
he  named  for  their  first  native  commandant,  in  opposition  to  the 
remonstrances  and  entreaties  of  all  the  Zemindars  of  the  place, 
a chief  named  Jowrah,  who  was  the  Rob  Roy,  or  perhaps,  more 
strictly  speaking,  the  Roderic  Dhu  of  the  Rajmahals,  the  most 
popular  of  all  others  among  his  own  countrymen,  and  the  most 
dreaded  by  the  lowlanders.  The  choice  was  fully  justified  by 
the  event,  Jowrah  having  remained  through  life  a bold,  active, 
and  faithful  servant  of  the  Company  in  different  enterprises 
against  outlaws,  both  in  the  Ramghur  hills  and  his  own  moun- 
tains. After  some  years  the  men  were  armed  with  muskets 
instead  of  bows,  and  are  now  in  all  respects  on  the  same  footing 
with  other  native  regiments,  and  equally  available  for  general 
service.  It  had  become  a mere  rabble,  addicted  to  all  sorts  of 
vice  and  disorder,  till  Lord  Hastings  placed  them  on  their  present 
footing.  In  the  first  instance,  he  proposed  to  arm  two  companies 
with  rifles,  but  the  men  disliked  the  service  exceedingly,  having 
a great  objection  to  wear  green ; they  now  therefore  are  fusileers. 


192 


HILL  CHIEFS. 


but  trained  to  light  infantry  manoeuvres,  in  which  they  are  said 
to  excel.  Their  numbers,  however,  are  reduced  from  1300  to 
700,  of  whom  200  are  not  genuine  mountaineers,  but  Hindoos 
from  the  plain, — a mixture  which  is  not  found  advantageous  to 
the  former,  and  which  must,  from  their  superstitions,  materially 
impede  the  efficiency  of  the  unfettered  and  unprejudiced  Puhar- 
ree ; these  last  are  said  to  be  admirably  adapted  for  soldiers,  and 
to  be  very  fond  of  the  profession.  Having  no  caste,  and  eating 
any  food  indiscriminately,  they  would  be  available  for  foreign 
service  at  a shorter  notice  than  any  Hindoo  could  be ; accustomed 
to  mountains  and  jungles,  they  would  be  extremely  valuable  on 
the  eastern  and  northern  frontier,  as  well  as  on  the  Nerbuddah 
and  in  Berar,  and  in  the  possible  event  of  any  general  insurrec- 
tion in  India,  it  might  be  of  great  political  importance  to  have  a 
force  of  native  troops  who  prefer  (as  these  do)  the  English  to  the 
Hindoos,  and  whose  native  country  occupies  a strong  and  central 
place  in  the  British  territory, — a sort  of  little  Tyrol. 

At  the  school  1 met  the  present  native  commandant,  one  of 
Mr.  Cleveland’s  surviving  pupils,  an  old  man,  much  reverenced 
by  his  countrymen,  and  who  passes  a great  deal  of  his  time  there, 
being  extremely  proud  of  his  people,  and  interested  in  their 
improvement.  He  has  also  the  character  of  a smart  and  intelli- 
gent soldier.  His  influence  has  been  very  valuable  in  getting  the 
school  together  again,  much  pains  having  been  taken  by  a Por- 
tuguese or  two  in  the  neighbourhood  to  persuade  the  Puharrees 
from  attending,  or  sending  their  children.  Even  now,  though 
many  of  the  younger  children  of  the  mountain-chiefs  are  sent,  the 
eldest  sons  are  kept  away,  owing  to  a notion  circulated  among 
them  by  these  people,  that  they  would  forfeit  the  reversion  of 
their  pensions  by  receiving  any  benefit  from  the  Company  of 
another  kind.  This  is  an  utter  mistake,  which  Mr.  Chalmers 
hopes  to  rectify,  but  it  has  already  done  some  harm.  Captain 
Graham  is  very  popular  among  them,  and  by  all  which  I hear, 
most  deservedly  so,  and  when  once  or  twice  he  has  talked  of 
leaving  them  for  some  other  regiment,  they  have  expressed 
exceeding  distress  and  concern.  Those  whom  1 saw  were  mid- 
dle sized,  or  rather  little  men,  but  extremely  well  made,  with 
remarkably  broad  chests,  long  arms,  and  clean  legs.  They  are 
fairer,  I think,  than  the  Bengalees,  have  broad  faces,  small  eyes, 
and  fiattish,  or  rather  turned  up  noses;  but  the  Chinese  or  Malay 
character  of  their  features,  from  whom  they  are  said  to  be  de- 
scended, is  lost  in  a great  degree  on  close  inspection.  I confess 
they  reminded  me  of  the  Welch ; the  expression  of  their  coun- 
tenances is  decidedly  cheerful  and  intelligent,  and  1 thought  two 
or  three  of  their  women  whom  I saw,  really  pretty,  with  a sort 
of  sturdy  smartness  about  them  which  I have  not  seen  in  fheir 


PUHARREES, 


193 


iowland  neighbours.  These  tribes  have  a regular  administration 
of  justice  among  themselves,  by  the  ancient  Hindoo  institution  of 
a “ Punchaet,”  or  jury  of  five  old  men  in  every  village,  and  as  I 
mentioned  before,  they  remain  free  from  all  taxes,  and  are  under 
the  government  of  their  own  chiefs,  but  in  all  other  respects 
they  were  great  sufferers  by  Mr.  Cleveland’s  death ; all  his  plans 
for  teaching  them  the  simple  manufactures,  as  well  as  for  furnish- 
ing them  with  seeds  and  implements  of  husbandry,  fell  with  him. 
Even  the  school  was  dropped.  The  pensions  which  had  been 
promised  to  the  Hill  Chiefs  in  consideration  of  their  maintaining 
peace  and  the  authority  of  the  Company  in  their  districts,  though 
regularly  paid  by  the  Supreme  Government,  never  reached  their 
destination,  being  embezzled  on  various  pretences.  And  the  old 
encroachments  of  the  Zemindars  on  their  frontiers  were  allowed 
to  be  renewed  with  impunity.  The  only  man  who,  during  this 
interval,  appears  to  have  done  his  duty  towards  these  people,  was 
Lieutenant  (afterwards  Colonel)  Shaw',  who  was  appointed  to  the 
command  of  the  Rangers  in  1787,  and  whose  memory  is  still 
highly  respected  by  them.  He  published  an  account  (which  I 
have  not  seen)  of  their  customs,  in  an  early  volume  of  the  Asiatic 
Researches. 

Lord  and  Lady  Hastings  went  on  a short  excursion  into  the 
hills  in  their  return  from  the  upper  country,  and  were  greatly 
interested  by  them  and  their  highlands.  Lord  Hastings  promised 
their  chiefs  to  send  a good  stock  of  the  most  useful  tools  of 
husbandry  (they  have  at  present  no  implements  of  this  kind  but 
sharpened  stakes)  and  a quantity  of  seed  potatoes.  He  did  not 
forget  the  promise,  and  Captain  Graham  heard  him  give  orders 
for  its  performance  after  his  return  to  Calcutta.  But  a sovereign 
can  seldom  do  all  the  good  he  desires  ; nothing  in  fact  was  done, 
and  the  chiefs  have  since  more  than  once  complained  that  they 
were  forgotten.  They  are,  however,  better  off  now  than  at  any 
time  since  the  death  of  Cleveland,  for  Mr.  Chalmers,  who  is  an 
' active  and  honourable  man,  has  seen  justice  done  to  them  in  the 
payment  of  their  little  stipends,  which  had  frequently  been  em- 
bezzled on  various  pretences  by  the  native  agents ; and  Govern- 
ment are  making  a fresh  survey  of  the  debateable  land,  with  a 
view  to  an  equitable  arrangement  of  the  claims  both  of  the 
Puharrees  and  the  Zemindars,  by  which  it  is  said  the  former  will 
be  great  gainers.  Mr.  Chalmers,  and  Captain  Graham,  with 
Colonel  Franklin,  well  known  as  an  excellent  Oriental  scholar 
and  antiquarian,  who  is  inspecting  field-officer  of  this  district, 
think  very  favourably  of  the  Puharrees.  Notwithstanding  their 
poverty,  their  living  chiefly  by  the  chace  and  always  going  armed, 
the  general  conduct  both  of  chiefs  and  people  has  been  orderly 
and  loyal  ever  since  their  fathers  swore  allegiance.  They  are 
VoL,  I. — 25 


194 


PUHARREES. 


hospitable  according  to  their  small  means,  and  have  no  sort  of 
objection  to  eat  with  or  after  Europeans.  They  are  a little  too 
fond  of  spirits,  a taste  which  Cleveland  unfortunately  encouraged, 
by  sending  them  presents  of  the  kind,  and  allowing  them  to  drink 
when  at  his  house.  Though  accustomed  to  make  predatory  in- 
roads on  their  lowland  and  hereditary  enemies,  among  themselves 
they  have  always  been  honest ; and  what  is  an  immense  distinc- 
tion indeed  between  them  and  the  Hindoos,  they  hate  and  despise 
a lie  more  than  most  nations  in  the  world.  The  soldiers  who 
have  committed  any  fault,  own  it  readily,  and ’either  ask  pardon 
or  submit  to  their  punishment  in  silence ; in  the  Cutcherry,  the 
evidence  of  a Puharree  is  always  trusted  more  than  that  of  half 
a dozen  Hindoos,  and  there  is  hardly  any  instance  on  record  of  a 
chief  violating  his  word.  Though  dirty  in  their  persons  in  com- 
parison with  the  Hindoos,  they  are  very  clean  in  their  cottages, 
and  their  villages  are  kept  free  from  the  vile  smells  which  meet 
us  in  those  of  Bengal.  The  men  dislike  hard  work,  and  are 
chiefly  occupied  in  hunting,  hut  the  women  are  very  industrious 
in  cultivating  the  little  patches  of  garden  round  their  villages. 
They  are  also  generally  chaste,  and  it  no  doubt  contributes  to 
keep  them  so,  that  the  premature  and  forced  marriages  of  the 
Hindoos  are  unknown  ; that  their  unions  take  place  at  a suitable 
age,  and  that  the  lad  has  generally  to  wait  on  the  lass  during  a 
pretty  long  courtship.  They  make  very  good  and  faithful  house- 
hold servants,  but  are  not  fond  of  the  way  of  life,  and  do  not 
agree  well  with  their  Hindoo  fellow  domestics.  Both  men  and 
women  are  intelligent  and  lively,  but  rather  passionate,  and  they 
differ  from  most  of  the  Hindoos,  in  being  fond  of  music,  and 
having  a good  ear.  Captain  Graham  has  instructed  some  of 
their  boys  as  fifers,  and  found  them  apt  scholars.  They  are  fond 
of  pedigree  and  old  stories,  and  their  chiefs  pique  themselves  on 
their  families.  No  clanship,  or  feudal  subjection,  however,  ap- 
pears to  exist.  If  a man  is  dissatisfied  with  the  head  of  his  village, 
there  is  nothing  to  prevent  his  removal  to  another.  In  short, 
Emily,  they  are  Welch,  and  one  of  these  days  I will  take  you  into 
their  hills,  to  claim  kindred  with  them ! 

Mr.  Corrie  has  obtained  a little  vocabulary  of  their  language, 
which,  certainly,  differs  very  remarkably  from  the  Hindoostanee, 
and  T am  told  from  the  Bengalee.  The  old  commandant, 
who  has  been  on  service  towards  the  Berar  frontier,  says  he 
could  converse  perfectly  with  the  Bheels  and  Gooand  tribes,  so 
that  they  are  apparently  different  branches  of  the  same  great 
family  which  pervades  all  the  mountainous  centre  of  India,  the 
“ Gaels”  of  the  east,  who  have  probably,  at  some  remote  period, 
been  driven  from  all  but  these  wildernesses,  by  the  tribes  pro- 
fessing the  brahminical  faith. 


PUHARREES. 


195 


The  following  is  Captain  Graham’s  account  of  their  religion. 
The  Hill-people  offer  up  frequent  prayers  to  one  Supreme  Being, 
whom  they  call  “ Budo  Gosaee,”  which  in  their  language  means 
“ Supreme  God.”  Prayer  to  God  is  strictly  enjoined  morning 
and  evening.  They  also  offer  up  propitiatory  sacrifices  of  buffa- 
loes, goats,  fowls,  and  eggs  to  several  inferior,  and  some  evil 
deities. 

“ Malnad”  is  the  tutelary  genius  of  each  village ; “ Dewannee” 
the  household  god.  ‘‘  Pow”  is  sacrificed  to  before  undertaking  a 
journey.  They  appear  to  believe  in  a future  state  of  rewards 
and  punishments  chiefly  carried  on  by  means  of  transmigration, 
the  souls  of  the  good  being  sent  back  to  earth  in  the  bodies  of 
great  men,  and  those  of  the  wicked  in  brutes  and  even  trees. 

The  great  God  made  every  thing.  Seven  brothers  were  sent 
to  possess  the  earth ; they  give  themselves  the  credit  of  being 
descended  from  the  eldest,  and  say  that  the  sixth  was  the  father 
of  the  Europeans.  Each  brother  was  presented,  on  setting  out, 
with  a portion  of  the  particular  kind  of  food  which  he  and  his  de- 
scendants were  to  eat.  But  the  eldest  had  a portion  of  every 
kind  of  food,  and  in  a dirty  dish.  This  legend  they  allege  as  their 
reason  for  observing  no  restriction  of  meats,  and  for  eating  with 
or  after  any  body.  They  say  they  are  strictly  forbidden  by  God 
to  beat,  abuse,  or  injure  their  neighbours,  and  that  a lie  is  the 
greatest  of  all  crimes.  Hogs’  blood  appears  to  answer  with  them 
all  the  purposes  which  holy  water  does  with  some  other  nations. 
If  a person  is  killed  by  a tiger,  it  is  the  duty  of  his  relations  to 
avenge  his  death  by  killing  one  of  those  animals  in  return,  on 
which  occasion  they  resort  to  many  strange  ceremonies.  They 
are  great  believers  in  witchcraft ; every  ache  which  the  old  com- 
mandant feels  in  his  bones,  and  every  disappointment  or  cala- 
mity which  befalls  him  or  any  of  his  friends,  he  imputes  to  this 
cause,  and  menaces  or  bribes  some  old  woman  or  other.  They 
have  also  many  interpreters  of  dreams  among  them,  whom  they 
call  “ Damauns,”  and  believe  to  be  possessed  by  a familiar  spirit. 
When  any  of  these  die,  they  expose  his  body,  without  burial,  in 
the  jungle.  They  also  suppose  certain  diseases  to  be  inflicted  by 
evil  spirits,  to  whom  they  expose  the  bodies  of  such  as  die  of 
them,  those  who  die  of  small-pox  are  cast  out  into  the  woods, 
those  who  die  of  dropsy  into  the  water. 

They  have  no  idols  or  images  of  any  kind;  a black  stone  found 
in  the  hills,  is  by  some  ceremonies  consecrated  and  used  as  an 
altar.  They  have  several  festivals  which  are  held  in  high  rever- 
ence. The  Chitturia  is  the  greatest,  but  seldom  celebrated  on 
account  of  its  expense.  It  lasts  five  days,  during  which  buffaloes, 
hogs,  fruits,  fowls,  grains,  and  spirits  are  offered  up  to  the  gods, 
and  afterwards  feasted  on.  This  is  the  only  festival  in  which 


196 


PUHARREES. 


females  are  permitted  to  join.  During  its  continuance  they  salute 
nobody,  all  honour  being  then  appropriated  to  the  gods.  Poly- 
gamy is  not  forbidden,  but  seldom  practised.  The  bridegroom 
gives  a feast  on  occasion  of  the  marriage ; the  bride’s  father  ad- 
dresses a speech  to  him,  exhorting  him  to  use  his  daughter  well ; 
the  bridegroom  then  marks  her  forehead  with  red  paint,  links 
his  little  finger  in  hers,  and  leads  her  to  his  house.  The  usual 
mode  of  making  oath  is  to  plant  two  arrows  in  the  ground  thus, 


the  person  swearing  taking  the  blade  of  one  and  the  feather  of  the 
other  between  his  finger  and  thumb.  On  solemn  occasions,  how- 
ever, salt  is  put  on  the  blade  of  a sabre,  and  after  the  words  of  the 
oath  are  repeated,  the  blade  being  placed  on  the  under  lip  of  the 
person  sworn,  the  salt  is  washed  into  his  mouth  by  him  who 
administers  it. 

Thus  far  1 have  learnt  from  Captain  Graham  ; Mr.  Corrie  tells 
me  that  further  particulars  of  this  interesting  race  are  given  in  the 
Calcutta  Annual  Register  for  1821  ; what  follows  I learnt  from 
different  persons  in  the  course  of  the  day. 

The  Hill  country  is  very  beautiful,  and  naturally  fertile,  but  in 
many  parts  of  it  there  is  a great  scarcity  of  water,  a want  which 
the  people  urge  as  an  excuse  for  their  neglect  of  bathing.  As  so 
much  rain  falls,  this  might  and  would  by  a civilized  people  be 
remedied,  but  the  Puharrees  neither  make  tanks,  nor  have  any 
instrument  proper  for  digging  wells.  The  thick  jungle  makes  the 
hills  unwholesome  to  Europeans  during  the  rains,  but  at  other 
times  the  climate  is  extremely  agreeable,  and  in  winter  more  than 
agreeably  cold.  Mr.  Chalmers  one  night  had  a jug  of  water 
completely  frozen  over  to  a considerable  thickness  in  his  tent, 
and  close  to  his  bed.  The  Puharrees  are  a healthy  race,  but  the 
small-pox  used  to  make  dreadful  ravages  among  them.  Vaccina- 
tion has  now  been  generally  introduced  ; they  were  very  thankful 
for  it,  bringing  their  children  from  thirty  to  fifty  miles  off  to  Bog- 
lipoor  to  obtain  it.  Wild  animals  of  all  kinds  are  extremely 


BOGLIPOOR. 


197 


abundant,  from  the  jackall  to  the  tiger,  and  from  the  deer  to  the 
elephant  and  rhinoceros.  Their  way  of  destroying  the  large 
animals  is,  generally,  by  poisoned  arrows.  The  poison  is  a gum 
which  they  purchase  from  the  Garrows,  a people  who  inhabit  the 
mountains  to  the  north  of  Silhet,  at  Peer-pointee  fair. 

No  attempt  has  yet  been  made  to  introduce  them  to  the  know- 
ledge of  Christianity.  The  school  at  Boglipoor  has  scarcely  been 
in  activity  for  more  than  eighteen  months,  and  being  supported  by 
Government,  it  cannot,  in  conformity  with  the  policy  which  they 
pursue,  be  made  a means  of  conversion.  Mr.  Corrie  is  strongly 
disposed  to  recommend  the  establishment  of  a Missionary  at 
Boglipoor;  but  I am  myself  inclined  to  prefer  sending  him  imme- 
diately, (or  as  soon  as  he  may  have  gained  some  knowledge  of 
the  Puharree  language,)  into  one  of  the  mountain  villages.  I also 
would  wish  to  employ  some  person  to  accompany  the  Missionary 
or  Schoolmaster,  who  may  instruct  the  natives  in  weaving  or  pot- 
tery ; and  to  choose,  in  either  of  these  capacities,  some  one  who 
had  himself  a little  knowledge  of  gardening.  Civilization  and 
instruction  will  thus  go  hand  in  hand, — or  rather,  the  one  will 
lead  the  way  to  the  other,  and  they  will  think  the  better  of  a 
religion  whose  professors  are  seriously  active  in  promoting  their 
temporal  interests.  The  Puharrees  seem  to  have  no  prejudices 
hostile  to  Christianity,  any  other  than  those  which  men  will  always 
have  against  a system  of  religion  which  requires  a greater  degree 
of  holiness  than  they  find  it  convenient  to  practise.  The  discreet 
exertions  of  Missionaries  among  them  will  give  no  offence  either 
to  Hindoos  or  Mussulmans,  and  a beginning  may  thus  be  made  to 
the  introduction  both  ofChristianity  and  civilization,  through  all  the 
kindred  tribes  of  Gundwana  and  the  Western  Bheels,  who  are,  at 
this  moment,  in  the  same  habits  of  rapine  and  savage  anarchy 
which  the  Puharrees  were  in  before  the  time  of  Cleveland. 

Boglipoor  is  a pretty  situation,  and  said  to  be  one  of  the 
helathiest  stations  in  India.  It  is,  however,  much  infested  by 
snakes,  particularly  the  cobra  di  capello.  It  stands  nearly  half 
way  between  the  Rajmahal  and  Curruckpoor  hills,  and  commands 
a distant  view  of  Mount  Mandar,  an  insulated  conical  mountain, 
apparently  about  as  large  as  the  Wrekin,  renowned  as  a place  of 
Hindoo  pilgrimage,  and  as  having  been  employed  by  the  gods  to 
churn  the  ocean  with,  in  order  to  procure  the  “ amreeta,”  or 
drink  of  immortality.  It  is.  Colonel  Franklin  assures  me,  re- 
markable as  being  a mass  of  granite,  whereas  all  these  nearer  hills 
are  of  limestone.  He  also  told  me  that  he  had  been  to  the  end 
of  the  cave  of  Puttergotta,  which  has  been  used  as  a temple  to 
Siva.  It  is  pretty,  and  very  accessible,  but  by  no  means  deep. 
The  hills  to  the  south  of  Boglipoor,  beyond  Mandar,  towards 
Deogur,  are  very  wild,  and  now  almost  entinely  uninhabited,  but 


198 


PALIBOTHRA. 


are  full  of  vestiges,  not  of  Brahminical  but  Buddhist  worship. 
Colonel  Franklin  has  himself  a curious  collection  of  idols  of  this 
latter  kind,  dug  up  in  this  part  of  India,  and  is  employed  in  a dis- 
sertation on  the  subject.  1 forgot  to  mention  that  all  these  hills 
are  full  of  wild  poultry,  exactly  in  crow,  figure,  and  plumage, 
resembling  bantams.  Their  flavour  is  superior  to  the  domestic 
fowl,  and  resembles  that  of  the  partridge.  They  might,  no  doubt, 
be  easily  domesticated.  The  Rajmahal  hills  stand  in  a detached 
cluster,  containing,  perhaps,  as  much  ground  as  Merionethshire 
and  Carnarvonshire.  They  are  bounded  on  all  sides  by  a plain, 
or  nearly  plain  country  ; after  which,  on  the  east,  are  the  Cur- 
ruckpoor  hills,  and  on  the  south  the  very  impracticable  districts 
of  Beiboom,  Dranghur,  &c. 

August  11. — I had  a drive  with  Mr.  Corrie  this  morning,  and 
got  a pretty  good  distant  view  of  Mandar  and  the  Curruckpoor 
hills.  Colonel  Franklin  supposes  the  ancient  Palibothra — a cele- 
brated city  and  metropolis  of  Gangetic  India,  in  the  time  of  the 
ancient  Greeks,  to  have  stood  in  this  neighbourhood,  and  has 
published  several  learned  essays  to  prove  it,  which  I remember 
looking  at  many  years  ago,  when  1 had  little  curiosity  about  the 
question.  He  is  a very  agreeable  and  communicative  old  man, 
and  his  collection  curious  and  interesting.  His  opinions  are 
opposed  to  the  alleged  antiquity  of  the  brahminical  worship,  and 
he  coincides  in  general  with  the  late  Mr.  Bentley. 


199 


CHAPTER  X. 

BOGLIPOOR  TO  MONGHYR. 

WIDTH  OF  THE  GANGES CHARITY  OF  DANDEES SEETA  COOM MON- 
GHYR  FORT— ZEMINDARS PENSIONERS BAPTIST  MISSION DESER- 

TION OF  DANDEES— CHEAPNESS  OF  FIRE-ARMS. 

At  noon  I again  set  off,  with  Mr.  Corrie’s  budgerow  in  com- 
pany. This  part  of  the  Ganges  has  undergone  great  alterations 
since  Rennell’s  map  was  made.  Boglipoor  is  laid  down  by  him 
as  standing  on  a separate  nullah ; but  now  nothing  remains  of  the 
separation  except  a few  marshy  islands,  immediately  opposite  the 
town.  I find  that  instead  of  exaggerating,  as  I feared  to  do,  I 
have,  in  my  previous  descriptions,  underrated  the  width  of  this 
noble  river.  Last  year,  at  the  height  of  the  inundation,  a little 
below  Boglipoor,  it  was  nine  measured  miles  across ; and  this 
year,  though  far  less  ground  is  covered,  it  is  supposed  to  be  full 
seven ; and  here  we  are  perhaps  six  hundred  miles,  reckoning  the 
windings  of  the  river,  from  the  sea  ! 

During  this  night  I was  completely  wakened  by  the  uproar 
which  the  jackalls  made.  On  asking  if  any  reason  could  be  given 
for  such  an  unusual  concourse,  I was  told  that  there  was  a field  of 
Indian  corn  adjoining,  of  which  they  are  very  fond,  and  that  the 
clamour  which  I heard  was  partly  from  the  animals  themselves, 
partly  from  the  watchmen,  who  were  endeavouring  to  scare  them 
away.  The  noise  was  quite  equal  to  that  of  an  immense  pack  of 
hounds,  with  half  the  rabble  of  a county  at  their  heels,  except 
that  the  cry  was  wilder  and  more  dismal.  If  his  Excellency  Count 
Falkenstein,  ‘‘  the  wild  huntsman,”  still  keeps  up  his  aerial  chase 
in  Germany,  it  is  exactly  such  a cry  as  1 should  expect  from  his 
hounds. 

August  12. — We  passed  this  morning  another  encampment  of 
gipsies,  only  differing  from  the  former  in  having  no  boats.  The 
name  by  which  they  go  in  this  country  is  “ Kunja.”  The  men, 
many  of  them,  wore  large  pink  turbans  ; three  of  the  women,  and 
the  children,  followed  us  begging.  These  did  not  conceal  their 
faces,  and  indeed  had  no  clothes  at  all,  except  a coarse  kind  of 
veil  thrown  back  from  the  shoulders,  and  a wretched  ragged  cloth 
wrapped  round  their  waists  like  a petticoat.  They  are  decidedly 
a taller,  handsomer  race  than  the  Bengalee.  One  of  the  women 
was  very  pretty,  and  the  forms  of  all  three  were  such  as  a sculptor 


200 


GIPSIES. 


would  have  been  glad  to  take  as  his  model.  Their  arms  were 
tattoed  with  many  blue  lines,  and  one  of  them  had  her  forehead 
slightly  marked  in  a similar  manner.  They  had  no  bangles  on 
their  wrists  and  ankles,  but  the  children,  though  perfectly  naked, 
were  not  without  these  ornaments.  As  we  could  not  stop  our 
boat,  I rolled  up  some  pice  in  paper,  and  gave  it  to  one  of  the 
dandees  to  throw  ashore.  Unfortunately  the  paper  burst,  and 
the  little  treasure  fell  into  the  river,  while  the  wind  freshening  at 
the  moment,  it  was  quite  out  of  my  power  to  give  more.  The 
dandees  expressed  great  concern ; indeed  they  are,  to  their  narrow 
means,  really  charitable ; they  club  a small  portion  of  each  mess 
every  day,  to  give  to  the  beggars  who  come  to  the  ghats,  and  if 
none  appear,  they  always  throw  it  to  some  dog  or  bird.  A more 
touching  instance  of  this  nature  was  told  me  hy  a lady,  which  she 
herself  witnessed  in  a voyage  last  year.  The  Serang  of  the  boat 
by  an  accident  lost  his  son,  a fine  young  man.  Every  evening 
afterwards,  he  set  apart  a portion,  as  if  the  young  man  were  yet 
alive,  and  gave  it  in  charity,  saying,  “ I have  not  given  it,  my  son 
has  given  it !” 

I forgot  to  mention,  that  just  as  Mr.  Corrie  was  setting  out  yes- 
terday, he  received  a letter  in  very  bad  English,  addressed  to 
“ The  Abbot,”  from  a person  signing  himself  “ Gopee  Mohun  Doss, 
a brahmin,  and  a true  friend  of  the  Honourable  Company.”  The 
writer  requested  an  interview  with  him,  that  he  might  receive 
instruction  in  Christianity.  Mr.  Corrie  returned  for  answer,  that 
he  would  see  the  writer  on  his  return  down  the  river.  He  says 
this  is  not  the  only  indication  he  has  met  with  of  persons  in  this 
neighbourhood,  who  seem  not  unwilling  to  inquire  into  religious 
subjects.  One  of  the  Hill-people  at  the  school  has  declared,  of  his 
own  accord,  his  intention  of  giving  up  Sunday  to  the  worship  of 
God ; and  there  are  several  Hindoos  and  Mussulmans,  who  make 
no  objection  to  eat  victuals  prepared  by  Christians,  saying,  that 
they  think  the  Christians  are  as  pure  as  themselves,  and  they 
are  sure  they  are  wiser.”  This  letter  was  brought  hy  a very 
well  dressed  servant,  who  spoke  of  his  master  as  a baboo,  so  that 
there  seemed  no  interested  motive  for  the  request  which  it  con- 
tained. 

As  we  advanced,  we  passed  at  Janghera  two  very  pretty  rocks 
projecting  into  the  river,  with  a mosque  on  the  one,  and  a pagoda 
on  the  other ; while,  in  the  distance,  were  the  Curruckpoor  hills, 
not  so  tall  or  striking  as  the  Rajmahal,  but  not  inferior  to  the  Hal- 
kin  mountains,  and  the  range  above  Flint  and  Holywell.  Such  as 
they  are,  they  are  very  refreshing  to  the  eye  in  these  vast  regions 
of  level  ground.  The  Ganges  has  here  exactly  the  appearance 
of  an  arm  of  the  sea,  and  a very  noble  one  too. 

A little  to  the  east  of  Monghyr,  in  a pretty  garden,  is  a cele- 


SEETA  COOM— MONGHYR. 


201 

brated  hot  well,  named  Seeta  Coora, — the  fountain  of  Seeta.  I 
wished  to  stop  to  look  at  it,  but  gave  up  the  intention,  as,  should 
the  wind  fail,  the  passage  to  Monghyr  would  be  difficult  and  labo- 
rious. The  water  has  no  medical  properties,  but  such  as  may 
arise  from  its  heat  and  exceeding  purity.  When  cold  it  is  much 
valued  as  a beverage,  and  some  persons  in  Calcutta  drink  nothing 
else.  Immediately  after  leaving  it  we  passed  a low  rocky  hill, 
close  to  the  water’s  edge,  strewed  all  over  with  large  round  masses 
offluorand  mica.  Specimens  of  both  these  Colonel  Franklin 
had  shown  me  from  the  Curruckpoor  hills,  as  also  some  very  fine 
ones  of  talc,  or  lapis  specularis,  which  divided  easily  into  thin  but 
tough  lamina,  as  transparent  as  isinglass.  Thirty  years  ago,  he 
said,  this  was  the  only  approach  to  glass  usually  seen  in  the  win- 
dows of  houses,  even  of  Europeans,  in  these  and  the  northern 
provinces.  Some  other  pretty  hills  followed,  of  rather  antic 
shapes,  particularly  one  with  a house  and  a high  gazebo  on  its 
summit.  All  the  hills  seem  to  be  of  limestone,  in  a state  of  con- 
siderable decomposition.  The  north-eastern  bank  of  the  river 
still  continues  as  flat  as  possible,  very  naked,  and  ugly. 

The  loss  of  the  coco-tree  does  not  materially  injure  the  landscape 
here,  since  its  place  is  still  supplied  by  the  toddy,  or  tara-palm, 
and  the  date-palm.  The  country,  however,  the  hills  excepted,  is 
certainly  more  open  and  less  verdant  than  Bengal,  though,  as  a 
land  to  live  and  take  exercise  in,  it  decidedly  seems  to  have  the 
advantage.  This  part,  I find,  is  not  reckoned  either  in  Bengal  or 
Bahar,  having  been,  under  the  name  of  the  Jungleterry  district, 
always  regarded,  till  its  pacification  and  settlement,  as  a sort  of 
border,  or  debateable  land.  Monghyr,  and  a narrow  slip  between 
it  and  the  hills,  are  the  first  commencement  of  real  Hindostan, 
though  in  popular  language,  and  in  the  estimation  of  the  people, 
the  Terriagully  pass  is  the  boundary. 

Monghyr,  as  one  approaches  it,  presents  an  imposing  appear- 
ance, having  one  or  two  extremely  good  European  houses,  each 
perched  on  its  own  little  eminence.  The  ghat  offered  a scene  of 
bustle  and  vivacity  which  I by  no  means  expected.  There  were 
so  many  budgerows  and  pulwars,  that  we  had  considerable  diffi- 
culty to  find  a mooring-place  for  our  boat ; and  as  we  approached 
the  shore,  we  were  beset  by  a crowd  of  beggars  and  artizans, 
who  brought  for  sale  guns,  knives,  and  other  hardware,  as  also 
many  articles  of  upholstery  and  toys.  They  looked  extremely 
neat,  but  as  I meant  to  buy  none,  I would  not  raise  expectation 
by  examining  them.  There  were  also  barbers  in  abundance, 
conspicuous  by  their  red  turbans,  one  of  whom  v/as  soon  retained 
by  some  of  my  dandees,  who  sat  down,  one  after  another,  on  the 
green  bank,  to  have  their  hair  clipped  as  close  as  possible,  as  be- 
came aquatic  animals.  A juggler,  too,  made  his  appearance, 

VoL.  1.— 26 


202 


MONGHYR. 


leading  a tall  brown  goat,  almost  as  high  as  a Welch  pony,  with 
two  little  brown  monkeys  on  its  back.  In  short  it  was  the  liveli- 
est scene  which  I had  encountered  during  the  voyage. 

I arrived  early,  and  was  therefore  for  some  time  a prisoner  in 
my  boat  from  the  heat,  exposed  to  the  teazing  of  various  appli- 
cants for  custom.  As  it  grew  cool  I walked  into  the  fort,  passing 
by  a small  but  neat  English  burial-ground,  fenced  in  with  a wall, 
and  crammed  full  of  those  obelisk  tombs  which  seem  almost  dis- 
tinctive of  European  India.  The  fort  occupies  a great  deal  of 
ground,  but  is  now  dismantled.  Its  gates,  battlements,  &c.  are  all 
of  Asiatic  architecture,  and  precisely  similar  to  those  of  the  Khit- 
airgorod  of  Moscow.  Within  is  an  ample  plain  of  fine  turf,  dotted 
with  a few  trees,  and  two  noble  tanks  of  water,  the  largest  cov- 
ering, I conceive,  a couple  of  acres.  Two  high  grassy  knolls  are 
enclosed  within  the  rampart,  occupying  two  opposite  angles  of 
the  fort,  which  is  an  irregular  square,  with,  I think,  twelve  semi- 
circular bastions,  and  a very  wide  and  deep  wet-moat,  except  on 
the  west  side,  where  it  rises  immediately  from  the  rocky  banks  of 
the  river.  On  one  of  the  eminences  of  which  I speak  is  a collec- 
tion of  prison-like  buildings  : on  the  other  a very  large  and  hand- 
some house,  built  originally  for  the  commander-in-chief  of  the 
district,  at  the  time  that  Monghyr  was  an  important  station,  and 
the  Mahrattas  were  in  the  neighbourhood ; but  it  was  sold  some 
years  since  by  Government.  The  view  from  the  rampart  and  the 
eminences  is  extremely  fine.  Monghyr  stands  on  a rocky  pro- 
montory, with  the  broad  river  on  both  sides,  forming  two  bays, 
beyond  one  of  which  the  Rajmahal  hills  are  visible,  and  the  other 
is  bounded  by  the  nearer  range  of  Curruckpoor.  The  town  is 
larger  than  I expected,  and  in  better  condition  than  most  native 
towns.  Though  all  the  houses  are  small,  there  are  many  of  them 
with  an  upper  story,  and  the  roofs,  instead  of  the  flat  terrace  or 
thatch,  which  are  the  only  alternations  in  Bengal,  are  generally 
sloping,  with  red  tiles,  of  the  same  shape  and  appearance  with 
those  which  we  see  in  Italian  pictures ; they  have  also  little 
earthenware  ornaments  on  their  gables,  such  as  I have  not  seen 
on  the  other  side  of  Rajmahal.  The  shops  are  numerous,  and  I 
was  surprised  at  the  neatness  of  the  kettles,  tea-trays,  guns,  pis- 
tols, toasting-forks,  cutlery  and  other  things  of  the  sort,  which 
may  be  procured  in  this  tiny  Birmingham.  I found  afterwards 
that  this  place  had  been  from  very  early  antiquity  celebrated  for 
its  smiths,  who  derived  their  art  from  the  Hindoo  Vulcan,  who 
had  been  solemnly  worshipped,  and  was  supposed  to  have  had  a 
workshop  here.  The  only  thing  which  appears  to  be  wanting  to 
make  their  steel  excellent,  is  a better  manner  of  smelting,  and  a 
more  liberal  use  of  charcoal  and  the  hammer.  As  it  is,  their 
guns  are  very  apt  to  burst,  and  their  knives  to  break,  precisely 


MONGHYR. 


^203 

the  faults  which,  from  want  of  capital,  beset  the  works  of  inferior 
artists  in  England.  The  extent,  however,  to  which  these  people 
carry  on  their  manufactures,  and  the  closeness  with  which  they 
imitate  English  patterns,  show  plainly  how  popular  those  pat- 
terns are  become  among  the  natives. 

August  — Mr.  Templer,  the  judge  and  magistrate,  break- 
fasted with  me  this  morning,  and  gave  me  such  an  account  of 
Monghyr  and  its  spiritual  concerns,  as  made  me  decide  on  stay- 
ing over  Sunday.  There  are,  besides  his  own  family,  five  or  six 
others  here  of  the  upper  and  middling  classes,  and  above  thirty 
old  English  pensioners,  many  of  them  married  and  with  families, 
without  any  spiritual  aid  except  what  is  furnished  by  a Baptist 
missionary,  who  is  established  here.  Of  him  Mr.  Templer  spoke 
very  favourably,  but  said  that  the  members  of  the  Church  of 
England,  though  in  a manner  compelled  to  attend  his  ministry, 
would  value  extremely  an  opportunity  of  attending  divine  ser- 
vice, and  receiving  the  sacrament  in  their  own  way,  while  the 
number  of  children  of  different  ages,  whose  parents  might  be  ex- 
pected to  bring  them  for  baptism,  was  far  from  inconsiderable. 

I therefore  requested  Mr.  Templer  to  give  publicity  to  my  arri- 
val, and  intention  of  performing  divine  service  on  the  Sunday. 

I dined  with  him,  and  he  afterwards  drove  me  through  what  is 
really  one  of  the  prettiest  countries  that  I have  seen,  very  popu- 
lous, but  cultivated  in  a rude  and  slovenly  manner.  The  rent  of 
the  best  land  is  about  two  rupees  for  a customary  bega,  nearly  equal 
to  an  English  acre,  or  to  three  Bengalee  begas.  They  get  three 
crops  in  succession  every  year  from  the  same  lands,  beginning  with 
Indian  corn,  then  sowing  rice,  between  which,  when  it  is  grown  to 
a certain  height,  they  dibble  in  pulse,  which  rises  to  maturity  after 
the  rice  is  reaped.  The  district  is  very  fertile,  and  most  articles 
of  production  cheap.  The  people  are  quiet  and  industrious,  and 
the  offences  which  come  before  the  magistrate  both  in  number 
and  character  far  less,  and  less  atrocious,  than  is  the  case  either 
in  Bengal  or  farther  on  in  Hindostan.  Theft,  forgery,  and  house- 
breaking, being  the  besetting  sins  of  the  one,  and  violent  affrays, 
murders,  and  highway  robberies,  being  as  frequent  among  the 
other  people,  and  all  being  of  very  rare  occurrence  in  the  Jungle- 
terry  district.  The  peasants  are  more  prosperous  than  in  either, 
which  may  of  itself  account  for  their  decency  of  conduct.  But  Mr. 
Templer  was  inclined  to  ascribe  both  these  advantages  in  a great 
degree  to  the  fact  that  the  Zemindarries  in  this  neighbourhood 
are  mostly  very  large,  and  possessed  by  the  representatives  of 
ancient  families,  who,  by  the  estimation  in  which  they  are  held, 
have  the  more  authority  over  the  peasants,  and  as  being  wealthy 
have  less  temptation  to  oppress  them,  or  to  connive  at  the  op- 
pression of  others.  Though  a Zemindar  of  this  kind  has  no  legal 


204 


MONGHYR. 


control  over  his  people,  he  possesses  greater  effective  control 
than  a great  land-owner  in  England  exercises  over  his  ten- 
ants. Most  of  them  still  hold  cutcherries,  where  they  attend 
almost  daily  to  hear  complaints  and  adjust  differences  ; and  though 
doubtless  oppressions  may  sometimes  occur  in  these  proceedings, 
yet  many  quarrels  are  stifled  there,  and  many  mischievous  per- 
sons discountenanced,  who  might  else  give  much  trouble  to  the 
magistrate. 

In  the  upper  parts  of  Bahar,  and  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Be- 
nares, the  Zemindarries  are  small,  and  much  divided  between 
members  of  the  same  family.  In  consequence  the  peasants  are 
racked  to  the  utmost,  and  still  farther  harassed  by  the  law-suits 
of  the  joint  or  rival  owners,  each  sending  their  agents  among  them 
to  persuade  them  to  attorn  to  him,  and  frequently  forcibly  eject- 
ing them  from  their  farms  unless  they  advanced  money,  so  that 
they  have  sometimes  to  pay  a half-year’s  rent  twice  or  three 
times  over.  Nor  are  the  small  freeholders,  of  whom  there  are,  it  ap- 
pears, great  numbers  all  over  Bahar,  so  fortunate  in  their  privi- 
leges as  might  have  been  expected.  They  are  generally 
wretchedly  poor ; they  are  always  involved  in  litigations  of  some 
kind  or  other,  and  there  is  a tribe  of  Harpies,  of  a blended  cha- 
racter between  an  informer  and  a hedge-attorney,  who  make  it 
their  business  to  find  out  either  that  there  is  a flaw  in  their  origi- 
nal title,  or  that  they  have  forfeited  their  tenure  by  some  default 
of  taxes  or  service.  These  free,  or  copy-holders,  have  been  de- 
cidedly sufferers  under  Lord  Cornwallis’s  settlement,  as  have 
also  been  a very  useful  description  of  people,  the  Thannadars,” 
or  native  agents  of  police,  whose  “ Jaghires,”  or  rent-free  lands, 
which  were  their  ancient  and  legal  provision  all  over  India,  were 
forgotten,  and  therefore  seized  by  the  Zemindars,  while  the  peo- 
ple themselves  became  dependent  on  the  charity  of  the  magistrate, 
and  degraded  altogether  from  the  place  which  they  used  formerly 
to  hold  in  the  village  society.  The  permanent  settlement  was 
regarded  by  some  as  a very  hasty  and  ill-considered  business. 
Many  undue  advantages  were  given  by  it  to  the  Zemindars,  at  the 
same  time  that  even  so  far  as  they  were  concerned,  it  was  ex- 
tremely unequal,  and  in  many  instances  oppressive.  Like  our 
old  English  land-tax,  in  some  districts  it  was  ridiculously  low,  in 
others,  though  the  increase  of  cultivation  had  since  brought  the 
lands  more  up  to  the  mark,  it  was  first  ruinously  high,  so  that,  in 
fact,  quite  as  many  of  the  ancient  Zemindarrie  families  had  been 
ruined,  as  had  been  enriched,  while  taking  all  the  districts  to- 
gether, the  Company  had  been  losers  to  the  amount  of  many 
millions.  I should  have  supposed  that  by  its  permanency  at  least, 
it  had  been  the  chief  cause  of  the  prodigious  extension  of  cultiva- 
tion, which  every  body  allows  has  occurred  in  Bengal  and  Bahar 


LAND  TAX. 


205 


since  they  were  placed  under  the  immediate  government  of  the 
Company.  But  that  increase,  I was  told,  might  be  accounted  for 
by  other  causes,  such  as  the  maintenance  of  public  peace,  the 
perfect  exemption  from  invasion  and  the  march  of  hostile  armies, 
and  the  knowledge  that  a man  was  tolerably  sure  of  reaping  the 
immediate  fruits  of  his  labour,  and  that  the  acquisition  of  wealth 
did  not  expose  him  to  the  malignant  attention  of  Government. 
In  Bahar,  at  least,  the  Zemindars  had  not,  even  yet,  any  real  con- 
fidence in  the  permanence  of  the  rate,  and  in  fact  there  had  been 
in  so  many  instances  revisions,  re-measurements,  re-examinations, 
and  surcharges,  that  some  degree  of  doubt  was  not  unnatural.  In 
these  cases,  indeed,  fraud  on  the  part  of  the  original  contractors 
had  been  alleged  by  Government,  but  as  some  of  the  Bahar  land- 
lords had  observed,  they  did  not  hear  of  any  abatement  made 
by  the  Company  in  those  instances  where  the  advantage  of  the 
bargain  had  been  notoriously  on  their  side,  while,  they  also  ob- 
served, so  long  as,  in  the  recent  measure  adopted  by  Mr.  Adam, 
the  Government  possessed  and  exercised  the  power  of  taxing  the 
raw  produce  of  the  soil  to  any  amount  they  pleased  in  its  way  to 
market,  it  was  of  no  great  advantage  to  the  landholder  that  the 
direct  land-tax  remained  the  same. 

On  the  whole,  what  I heard  confirmed  my  previous  suspicion, 
that  the  famous  measure  of  Mr.  Law  was  taken  on  an  imperfect 
acquaintance  with  the  interests  of  India,  and  that  in  the  first  in- 
stance at  least,  a decennial  valuation,  executed  in  a liberal  spirit, 
would  have  avoided  many  inconveniences  without  losing  any  great 
advantage.  Mr.  Templer  surprised  me  by  what  he  said  of  the 
size  of  farms  in  this  part  of  India.  A wealthy  “ ryot,”  or  peasant, 
on  one  of  the  large  Zemindarries,  often  holds  as  much  as  two 
hundred  English  acres. 

August  14.- — 1 had  this  morning  one  christening,  and  Mr.  Corrie 
had  several.  The  child  I christened  was  a very  fine  boy  of  two 
years  old,  the  son  of  an  invalid  serjeant,  who  came,  attended  by 
his  wife,  a very  pretty  young  half-caste,  and  by  two  of  his  com- 
rades and  one  of  their  wives  as  sponsors.  All  these  were  very 
well-behaved  decent  old  men  ; they  stayed  talking  with  me  some 
time ; they  spoke  well  of  India,  but  complained  of  the  want  of 
some  occupation  for  their  minds.  A lending  library,  they  said, 
would  be  a great  comfort  to  their  little  society.  I afterwards 
mentioned  the  subject  to  Mr.  Templer,  and,  1 hope,  put  him  in 
the  proper  way  to  get  one  from  Government,  as  well  as  a school 
for  these  poor  men’s  children,  such  of  them  as,  by  any  accident, 
were  prevented  from  going  to  the  Military  Orphan  Asylum.  I 
understand  that  these  old  soldiers  are  in  general  men  of  very  de- 
cent character,  and  though  poor,  brought  up  their  families  very 
decently.  Some  of  them,  however,  are  liable  to  sudden  fits  of 


206 


DANDEES. 


drunkenness  or  infatuation,  sometimes  after  many  months  of 
sobriety,  during  which  nothing  can  keep  them  from  brandy  so  long 
as  they  have  either  money,  credit,  or  clothes.  Monghyr  is  the 
station  generally  chosen  by  the  more  respectable  characters,  the 
reprobates  preferring  Moorshedabad.  The  Company  give  them 
the  choice  of  residing  either  at  Moorshedabad,  Monghyr,  Buxar, 
or  Chunar,  and  they  sometimes  change  repeatedly  before  they  fix. 

In  consequence  of  the  intention  I had  expressed  to  have  service 
to  morrow,  Mr.  Templer  told  me  that  the  Baptists  had  given  no- 
tice that  their  own  meeting  should  not  open,  so  that  he  said  we 
should  probably  have  all  the  Christian  residents  of  the  place  and 
vicinity.  The  Baptist  congregation  in  this  neighbourhood  was  first 
collected  by  Mr.  Chamberlain,  an  excellent  man  and  most  active 
missionary,  but  of  very  bitter  sectarian  principles,  and  enter- 
taining an  enmity  to  the  Church  of  England  almost  beyond  belief. 
He  used  to  say  that  Martyn,  Corrie,  and  Thomason,  were  greater 
enemies  to  God,  and  did  more  harm  to  his  cause,  than  fifty  stupid 

drunken  “ Padre ” inasmuch  as  their  virtues,  and  popular 

conduct  and  preaching,  upheld  a system  which  he  regarded  as 
damnable,  and  which  else  must  soon  fall  to  the  ground.  The 
present  preacher,  Mr.  Lesley,  is  a very  mild,  modest  person,  of  a 
far  better  spirit,  and  scarcely  less  diligent  among  the  Heathen 
than  Chamberlain  was.  He  has,  however,  as  yet  had  small  suc- 
cess, having  been  but  a very  short  time  in  the  country.  Mr.  J. 
Lushington,  whom  I found  here,  has  been  detained  some  days, 
owing  to  the  dandees  belonging  to  the  horse-boat  running  away, 
^a  practice  very  common  on  this  river,  these  people  getting  their 
wages  in  advance,  and  then  making  off  with  them.  One  of  the 
party  asked  Mr.  Lushington  whether  there  had  been  any  quarrel 
between  the  dandees  and  his  servants,  or  himself ; on  his  answering 
in  the  negative,  it  was  observed  that  one  fertile  cause  of  boatmen’s 
desertion  was  the  ill  conduct  of  Europeans,  who  often  stimulated 
them  to  do  things  which,  in  their  weak  and  clumsy  boats,  were 
really  dangerous,  and,  against  all  law  or  right,  beat  them  when 
they  refused  or  hesitated.  A general  officer  was  some  time  since 
heard  to  boast,  that  when  his  cook-boat  lagged  behind,  he  always 
fired  at  it  with  ball ! I suppose  he  took  care  to  fire  high  enough, 
but  the  bare  fact  of  putting  unarmed  and  helpless  men  in  fear,  in 
order  to  compel  them  to  endeavour  to  do  what  was,  perhaps,  be- 
yond their  power,  was  sufficiently  unfeeling  and  detestable.  They 
are,  I suppose,  such  people  as  these  who  say  that  it  is  impossible 
to  inspire  the  Hindoos  with  any  real  attachment  for  their  em- 
ployers ! 1 am  pleased  with  all  1 see  of  Mr.  Lushington,  who  is 

gentlemanly,  modest,  and  studious ; he  is  going  to  Nusseerabad, 
so  that  it  is  possible  we  may  see  a good  deal  of  each  other. 

August  15. — Mr.  Corrie  read  prayers,  and  I preached  and 


MONGHYR. 


207 


administered  the  sacrament  in  the  hall  of  Dr.  Tytler’s  (the  gar- 
rison surgeon’s)  house.  There  were,  1 should  guess,  sixty  persons 
in  the  congregation,  among  whom  were  two  or  three  natives.  The 
Monghyr  proselytes  were  very  young  persons,  probably  brought 
over  by  the  Baptist  missionaries  ; Mr.  Lesley  and  the  greater  part 
of  his  flock  attended,  but  did  not  stay  the  sacrament.  There 
were,  however,  between  twenty  and  thirty  communicants,  all 
deeply  impressed  and  attentive.  In  the  evening  I again  preached 
to  pretty  nearly  the  same  congregation.  During  this  stay  at 
Monghyr,  I was  advised  by  many  old  Indians  to  supply  myself 
with  spears  to  arm  my  servants  with  in  our  march.  Colonel 
Francklyn  particularly  told  me  that  the  precaution  was  both  useful 
and  necessary,  and  that  such  a show  of  resistance  often  saved  lives 
as  well  as  property.  Monghyr,  I was  also  told,  furnished  better 
and  cheaper  weapons  of  the  kind  than  any  I should  meet  with  up 
the  country : they  are,  indeed,  cheap  enough,  since  one  of  the 
best  spears  may  be  had  complete  for  twenty  anas.  1 have  con- 
sequently purchased  a stock,  and  my  cabin  looks  like  a museum 
of  Eastern  weapons,  containing  eight  of  the  best  sort  for  my  own 
servants,  and  eight  more  for  the  Clashees  who  are  to  be  engaged 
up  the  country.  These  last  only  cost  fourteen  anas  each.  This 
purchase  gave  me  a fair  opportunity  of  examining  the  fire-arms 
and  other  things  which  were  brought  for  sale.  My  eye  could  cer- 
tainly detect  no  fault  in  their  construction,  except  that  the  wood 
of  the  stocks  was  slight,  and  the  screws  apparently  weak  and 
irregular.  But  their  cheapness  was  extraordinary ; a very  pretty 
single  barrelled  fowling-piece  may  be  had  for  twenty  S.  rupees, 
and  pistols  for  sixteen  the  brace. 


208 


CHAPTER  XI. 

MONGHYR  TO  BUXAR. 

CATTLE  SWIMMING  ACROSS  THE  RIVER BRAHMIN  LABOURERS PATNA 

BANKIPOOR GRANARY HACKERIES DINAPOOR CANTONMENT— 

DIGAH  FARM CHUPRA FLOATING  SHOPS FORT NATIVE  CHRIS- 
TIANS  SCHOOLS CURREEM  MUSSEEH VARIETIES  OF  COMPLEXION. 

August  16. — There  was  no  wind  this  morning  till  near  twelve 
o’clock,  but  we  had  then  just  enough  to  help  us  out  of  the  eddy 
of  Monghyr  and  across  the  river  to  the  other  side,  along  which  our 
boatmen  had  a painful  day’s  tracking  against  a fierce  stream.  The 
Curruckpoor  hills  on  the  left  hand  continued  to  offer  a very  beau- 
tiful succession  of  prospects.  A chain  of  marshy  islets  seemed  to 
extend  nearly  across  the  river  towards  the  end  of  our  course,  by 
the  aid  of  which  a large  herd  of  cattle  were  crossing  with  their 
keepers.  The  latter  1 conclude  had  been  ferried  over  the  prin- 
cipal arm,  but  when  I saw  them  they  were  wading  and  swimming 
alternately  by  the  side  of  their  charge,  their  long  gray  mantles 
wrapped  round  their  heads,  their  spear-like  staves  in  their  hands, 
and,  with  loud  clamour  joined  to  that  of  their  boys  and  dogs, 
keeping  the  convoy  in  its  proper  course.  The  scene  was  wild 
and  interesting,  and  put  me  in  mind  of  Bruce’s  account  of  the 
passage  of  the  Nile  by  the  Abyssinian  army.  The  bank  at  the 
foot  of  the  hills  seemed  fertile  and  populous  as  well  as  beautiful ; 
that  along  which  we  proceeded  is  very  wretched,  swampy,  with- 
out trees,  and  only  two  miserable  villages.  Several  alligators 
rose  as  we  went  along,  but  I saw  none  basking  on  the  many  reedy 
islets  and  promontories,  which,  during  the  hot  months,  are  said 
to  be  their  favourite  resorts.  Mr.  Lushington’s  budgerow  kept 
up  with  my  pinnace  extremely  well,  but  the  Corries  were  far 
behind. 

We  moored  for  the  night  adjoining  a field  of  barley,  the  first  I 
had  seen  in  India;  the  ground  was  recovered,  as  it  seemed,  from 
a sand-bank  in  the  river,  and  full  of  monstrous  ant-hills,  looking 
at  a little  distance  like  large  hay-cocks.  The  peasant  had  just 
finished  thrashing  his  barley,  and  was  busy  burying  it  in  the  dry 
soil.  A small  shed  as  usual  stood  to  watch  where  the  straw  with 
the  grain  in  it  had  been  collected.  The  high  ground  of  Peer 
Puhar  above  Monghyr  was  still  in  sight.  Just  before  we  stopped 
a very  large  crocodile  swam  close  to  the  boat,  and  showed  him- 


CROCODILE— FRUIT-TREES. 


209 


self  to  the  best  advantage.  Instead  of  being  like  those  we  bad 
seen  before,  of  a black  or  dusky  colour,  he  was  all  over  stripes  of 
yellow  and  brownish  black  like  the  body  of  a wasp,  with  scales 
very  visibly  marked,  and  a row  of  small  tubercles  or  prominences 
along  the  ridge  of  his  back  and  tail.  He  must,  1 should  think, 
have  been  about  fifteen  feet  long,  though,  under  the  circumstances 
in  which  1 saw  him,  it  was  by  no  means  easy  to  judge.  My  cabin 
was  extremely  infested  with  insects  this  evening,  particularly  with 
a large  black  beetle  which  1 had  not  seen  before,  and  which  was 
very  beautiful,  having  a splendid  mixture  of  jet,  copper  colour, 
and  emerald  about  it.  I had  also  a pretty  green  lizard,  which  I 
carefully  avoided  injuring,  knowing  it  to  be  an  enemy  to  ants  and 
cockroaches,  both  of  which  plagues  are  increasing,  and  unfortu- 
nately do  not  now  seem  to  check  each  other.  Yet  1 was  a little 
perplexed  how  the  “ honest  man  should  have  found  his  way  into 
my  closet.” 

August  17. — We  had  a fine  breeze  part  of  the  day,  and  stood 
over  to  the  other  bank,  which  we  found,  as  I had  expected,  really 
very  pretty,  a country  of  fine  natural  meadows,  full  of  cattle,  and 
interspersed  with  fields  of  barley,  wheat,  and  Indian  corn,  and 
villages  surrounded  by  noble  trees,  with  the  Curruckpoor  hills 
forming  a very  interesting  distance.  If  the  palm-trees  were  away, 
(but  who  would  wish  them  away?)  the  prospect  would  pretty 
closely  resemble  some  of  the  best  parts  of  England.  In  the  after- 
noon we  rounded  the  point  of  the  hills,  and  again  found  ourselves 
in  a flat  and  uninteresting,  though  fruitful  country.  The  last 
beautiful  spot  was  a village  under  a grove  of  tall  fruit-trees,  among 
which  were  some  fine  walnuts ; some  large  boats  were  building  on 
the  turf  beneath  them,  and  the  whole  scene  reminded  me  forcibly 
of  a similar  builder’s  yard,  which  I had  met  with  at  Partenak  in  the 
Crimea.  Many  groups  of  men  and  boys  sate  angling,  or  with 
their  spears  watching  an  opportunity  to  strike  the  fish,  giving 
much  additional  beauty  and  liveliness  to  the  scene. 

I have  been  much  struck  for  some  days  by  the  great  care  with 
which  the  stock  of  fruit-trees  in  this  country  is  kept  up.  I see 
every  where  young  ones  of  even  those  kinds  which  are  longest  in 
coming  to  maturity,  more  particularly  mangoes,  and  the  toddy  or 
tara  palm  (the  last  of  which  I am  told  must  be  from  thirty  to  forty 
years  old  before  it  pays  any  thing)  planted  and  fenced  in  with  care 
round  most  of  the  cottages,  a circumstance  which  seems  not  only 
to  prove  the  general  security  of  property,  but  that  the  peasants 
have  more  assurance  of  their  farms  remaining  in  the  occupation 
of  themselves  and  their  children,  than  of  late  years  has  been  felt 
in  England. 

The  village  near  which  we  brought  to  for  a short  time  in  the 

VoL.  I. — 27 


210 


BRAHMIN  LABOURERS---CATTLE  SWIMMING. 


evening,  belonged  to  brahmins  exclusively,  who  were  ploughing 
the  ground  near  us,  with  their  strings  floating  over  their  naked 
shoulders ; the  ground  was  sown  with  rice,  barley,  and  vetches,  the 
one  to  succeed  the  other.  Abdullah  asked  them  to  what  caste  of 
brahmins  they  belonged,  and  on  being  told  they  were  Pundits, 
inquired  whether  “ a mixture  of  seeds  was  not  forbidden  in  the 
Puranas?”  An  old  man  answered  with  a good  deal  of  warmth, 
that  they  were  poor  people  and  could  not  dispute,  but  he  believed 
the  doctrine  to  be  a gloss  of  Bhuddha,  striking  his  staff  with  much 
anger  on  the  ground  at  the  name  of  the  heresiarch.  The  brah- 
min labourers  are  now  resting  after  their  toil,  and  their  groups 
are  very  picturesque.  The  ploughman,  after  unyoking  his  oxen, 
lifted  up  his  simple  plough,  took  out  the  coulter,  a large  knife 
shaped  like  a horn,  wiped  and  gave  it  to  a boy,  then  lifted  up  the 
beam  and  yoke  on  his  own  shoulders,  and  trudged  away  with  it. 
These  brahmins,  I observe,  all  shave  their  heads  except  a tuft  in 
the  centre,  a custom  which  not  many  Hindoos,  1 think,  besides 
them  observe. 

Having  a good  wind  we  proceeded  a little  further  before  sun- 
set; we  passed  a herd  of  cows  swimming  across  a nullah  about 
as  wide  as  the  Dee  ten  miles  below  Chester,  the  cowman  sup- 
porting himself  by  the  tail  and  hips  of  the  strongest  among  them, 
and  with  a long  staff  guiding  her  in  a proper  direction  across  the 
stream.  We  soon  after  passed  a similar  convoy  guided  by  a little 
boy,  who,  however,  did  not  confine  himself  to  one  animal,  but 
swam  from  one  to  another,  turning  them  with  his  staff  and  his 
voice  as  he  saw  proper.  So  nearly  aquatic  are  the  habits  of  these 
people,  from  the  warmth  of  the  climate,  their  simple  food,  their 
nakedness,  and  their  daily  habits  of  religious  ablution.  I saw  a 
very  smartly  dressed  and  rather  pretty  young  country-woman 
come  down  to  the  Ghat  at  Monghyr  to  wash.  She  went  in  with 
her  mantle  wrapped  round  her  with  much  decency  and  even 
modesty,  till  the  river  was  breast  high,  then  ducked  under  water 
for  so  long  a time  that  I began  to  despair  of  her  re-appearance. 
This  was  at  five  o’clock  in  the  morning,  and  she  returned  again 
at  twelve  to  undergo  the  same  process,  both  times  walking  home 
in  her  wet  clothes  without  fear  of  catching  cold.  The  ancient 
Greeks  had,  1 am  convinced,  the  same  custom,  since  otherwise 
the  idea  of  wet  drapery  would  hardly  have  occurred  to  their  sta- 
tuaries, or,  at  least,  would  not  have  been  so  common. 

We  again  brought  to  about  seven  o’clock,  by  a field  just 
ploughed  ready  for  the  rising  inundation ; we  are  now  not  quite 
half  way  from  Monghyr  to  Patna.  The  women  here  are  still 
more  adorned  with  trinkets  than  those  in  Bengal.  Besides  the 
silver  bracelets,  their  arms  are  covered  with  rings  of-a  hard  kind 


FESTIVAL  OF  JUNMA  OSMEE— DERVISES. 


211 


of  sealing-wax  which  looks  like  coral,  and  another  ornament  either 
of  silver  or  bright  steel  is  common,  in  shape  something  like  a per- 
forated discus ; it  is  worn  above  the  elbow. 

August  1 8. — This  morning,  after  leaving  the  nullah,  we  pro- 
ceeded with  a fine  breeze,  along  the  left-hand  bank  of  the  river, 
which  is  very  fertile  and  populous,  with  a constant  succession 
of  villages,  whose  inhabitants  were  all  washing  themselves  and 
getting  on  their  best  attire,  it  being  the  Hindoo  festival  of  Junma 
Osmee. 

The  day  was  a very  brilliant  one,  and,  though  hot,  rendered 
supportable  by  the  breeze,  while  the  whole  scene  was  lively 
and  cheerful, — all  the  shops  having  their  flags  hoisted, — little 
streamers  being  spread  by  most  of  the  boats  which  we  passed, 
and  a larger  banner  and  concourse  of  people  being  displayed  at  a 
little  pagoda  under  the  shade  of  some  noble  peepul  and  tamarind 
trees. 

The  river  is  all  this  time  filled  with  boats  of  the  most  picturesque 
forms ; the  peasants  on  the  bank  have  that  knack  of  grouping 
themselves,  the  want  of  which  I have  heard  complained  of  in  the 
peasantry  of  England.  Two  novel  circumstances  were  seen  this 
morning ; the  one  the  appearance  of  considerable  herds  of  swine, 
of  a small  kind  resembling  the  Chinese  breed,  which  were  grazing 
near  most  of  the  villages ; the  other  a system  of  planting  tara 
palms  in  the  trunks  of  decayed  peepul-trees.  The  first  which  I 
saw  1 supposed  had  been  sown  there  by  accident ; but  I soon 
found  that  the  practice  was  frequent,  and  that  the  peepul  thus 
treated  had  generally  the  greater  part  of  its  branches,  and  all  the 
tops  cut  away  to  favour  the  intruding  plant,  which  stands  as  if  it 
were  in  a rude  flower-pot.  The  hollow  part  of  the  tree  must,  I 
suppose,  be  previously  filled  with  earth.  A very  excellent  fence 
is  thus  obtained  for  the  }'oung  tara  plant ; but  I conclude  that 
they  are  not  Hindoos  who  thus  mangle  and  violate  the  sacred  tree 
of  Siva. 

Towards  noon  the  banks  became  again,  though  not  rocky,  high 
and  precipitous,  and  full  of  holes  for  the  Muenas’  nests.  We  are 
fortunate  in  having  a breeze,  for  the  towing  here  would  be  dan- 
gerous, the  bank  being  crumbling  and  undermined,  and  the  stream 
flowing  with  great  rapidity.  A friend  of  Mr.  Corrie’s  had  two 
dandees  drowned  in  this  place  last  month.  1 was  astonished 
when  he  told  me  this,  since  it  seemed  almost  as  possible  to  drown 
an  alligator  as  men  of  their  habits.  I was  answered,  however, 
that  the  poor  fellows  were  worn  out  with  towing,  and  that  the 
current  washed  them  under  the  boats,  whence  they  had  not 
strength  to  recover  themselves. 

Two  dervises,  strange  antic  figures,  in  many-coloured  patched 
garments,  with  large  wallets,  begged  of  us  to-day.  I gave  a trifle 


212 


BUFFALOES. 


to  the  elder,  a venerable  old  man,  who  raised  his  hand  with  rnuch 
dignity  and  prayed  for  me. 

At  Bar,  where  I dined,  is  an  old  ruined  house,  with  some  little 
appearance  of  a palace,  once  the  residence  of  the  Jemautdar  of 
the  district,  under  the  Mohammedan  government.  We  brought 
to  about  half-past  six  near  an  indigo-field,  which  filled  my  cabin 
with  bugs.  The  night  was  very  hot  and  close. 

August  19. — Another  intensely  hot  day,  but  made  bearable  by 
a breeze.  1 found  a young  scorpion  in  my  cabin  this  morning 
among  my  books.  It  seems  to  prove  that  such  pests  are  not  so 
common  in  India  as  is  often  supposed,  that  I have  now  been  ten 
months  in  the  country  without  seeing  more ; and  that,  though  I 
have  walked  a good  deal,  and  never  particularly  avoided  places 
where  such  things  are  to  be  looked  for,  I have  only  seen  one 
cobra  di  capello.  I had  supposed  scorpions  to  be  black,  and 
was  surprised  to-day  to  see  an  animal  white  and  almost  trans- 
parent. 

The  pinnace  got  aground  in  passing  from  the  chain  of  nullahs 
and  jeels  which  we  entered  yesterday,  into  the  main  river,  and 
we  were  obliged  to  call  in  the  assistance  of  some  fishermen  to 
help  her  off ; they  laboured  hard  for  near  an  hour,  and  were 
grateful  for  a gratuity  of  two  pice ; they  were  nine  in  number, 
besides  a brahmin,  who  came  down  from  a village  while  we  were 
just  getting  disengaged,  and  extending  a basket  full  of  scarlet 
flowers,  applied  for  a thank-offering  to  his  god,  in  consideration 
of  our  escape  from  danger.  1 thought  he  was  merely  asking  for 
alms,  not  quite  hearing  what  he  said,  but  Abdullah  explained  his 
meaning.  However,  he  had  obtained  his  request. 

Our  halting-place  was  on  a pleasant  open  shore,  opposite  to 
Futwa,  but  still  short  of  Patna.  The  country  round  is  bare  of 
wood,  but  well  cultivated  and  very  populous  : the  land  laid  out 
in  alternate  patches  of  grass-fallow,  covered  with  cows,  buffaloes, 
and  swine,  and  fields  of  millet  and  Indian  corn,  among  which 
appear  also  some  patches  of  the  castor-oil  plant,  which,  now  that 
the  coco-nut  is  no  longer  found,  is  the  usual  supply  for  their 
lamps. 

I walked  about  a good  deal,  the  evening  being  pleasant,  and 
was  much  interested.  The  buffaloes  were  all  buried  in  the 
water,  scarcely  showing  more  than  their  noses  and  horns  above 
its  surface,  but  as  the  sun  went  down  they  came  out,  sleek,  black, 
and  glossy ; too  wild  and  timorous  to  suffer  an  European  to  ap- 
proach them,  but  showing  no  degree  of  fierceness.  The  pigs  are 
small,  black,  and  shaggy,  of  a very  wild  appearance.  At  the 
nearest  village  to  which  I walked  were  two  or  three  cottages, 
which,  though  mere  hovels  of  mud  and  thatch,  yet  from  the  size 
of  their  out-buildings,  and  the  treading  of  many  cattle  all  round 


FUTWA. 


213 


them,  I should  conceive  were  really  the  residences  of  tolerably 
wealthy  farmers.  One  of  these,  an  old  man,  was  thrashing  out 
a small  kind  of  millet,  by  driving  oxen  over  it  round  and  round 
in  a circle.  They  were  just  leaving  off  work  as  I came  up,  and 
a hind  was  bringing  a large  bundle  of  green  Indian  corn,  weeded 
from  the  thick  crop  for  their  provender.  I observed,  however, 
that  the  animals,  during  their  previous  employment,  were  not 
muzzled,  according  to  the  Scriptural  rule,  at  the  same  time  that 
they  were  kept  so  constantly  moving  that  a few  mouthfuls  were 
all  that  they  could  get.  While  I was  examining  this  heap  of  grain, 
and  asking  the  old  man  some  questions,  his  cows  came  up  for  the 
evening,  and  I pleased  him  exceedingly,  when  the  cowman  ran 
forward  to  beat  them  from  my  path,  by  forbidding  him  to  strike 
them.  ‘‘  Good  ! good  !”  he  said,  with  an  air  indicative  of  much 
satisfaction,  “ one  must  not  beat  cows.”  It  seems  to  me  that  the 
tender  mercies  of  the  Hindoos  towards  animals  are  exhausted  on 
cow^s  only ; for  oxen  they  have  no  pity, — they  are  treated  with 
much  severity,  but  I have  not  here  seen  them  show  such  marks 
of  cruelty  as  those  near  Calcutta.  Comfortable,  on  the  whole, 
as  this  village  seemed,  many  of  the  houses  must  soon  be  rendered 
uninhabitable,  if,  as  seems  by  no  means  impossible  from  present 
appearances,  the  river  rises  a single  cubit  higher.  Their  round 
granaries,  however,  are  all  raised  considerably  above  the  other 
buildings,  and  must,  I should  suppose,  be  tolerably  safe.  When 
I asked  what  was  to  become  of  the  others  if  the  river  rose,  the 
answer  was,  they  hoped  it  would  not  rise  more  than  a few  inches 
higher,  which  would  be  sufficient  for  their  fields,  without  starving 
their  cattle. 

Futwa,  which  was  directly  opposite  to  us,  is  a large  and  ancient 
town,  on  a river  for  which  the  people  of  the  town  seem  to  have 
no  other  name  than  “ Futwakee  Nuddee.”  Futwa  is  famous  for 
a very  long  and  handsome  old  bridge,  (an  object  of  some  rarity  in 
India,)  and  a college  of  Mussulman  law  and  divinity,  the  Moula- 
vies  of  which  are  widely  renowned.  The  night  was  very  cool 
and  pleasant. 

August  20. — ^We  arrived  at  the  south-east  extremity  of  Patna 
about  nine  o’clock  ; it  is  a very  great,  and  from  the  water  at  some 
little  distance,  a very  striking  city,  being  full  of  large  buildings, 
with  remains  of  old  walls  and  towers,  and  bastions  projecting  into 
the  river,  with  the  advantage  of  a high  rocky  shore,  and  consider- 
able irregularity  and  elevation  of  the  ground  behind  it.  On  a 
nearer  approach,  we  find,  indeed,  many  of  the  houses  whose 
verandahs  and  terraces  are  striking  objects  at  a distance,  to  be 
ruinous ; but  still  in  this  respect,  and  in  apparent  prosperity,  it  as 
much  exceeds  Dacca  as  it  falls  short  of  it  in  the  beauty  and  gran- 
deur of  its  ruins.  As  we  approached,  I proposed  slacking  sail  to 


214 


PATNA. 


give  the  Corries  time  to  come  up,  but  Mohammed  said  that  oppo- 
site the  old  castle  was  one  of  the  most  rapid  and  difficult  passages 
of  the  river  between  Hurdwar  and  Saugor,  and  that  if  we  did  not 
use  the  fine  wind  we  now  had,  we  might  be  kept  for  weeks.  We 
therefore  proceeded  along  this  noble  expanse  of  water,  which  I 
really  think  grows  wider  instead  of  narrower  as  we  advance,  and 
which  here,  between  wind  and  stream,  was  raised  into  waves  little 
less  than  those  which  the  Mersey  sometimes  exhibits  below  Liver- 
pool; my  boat  for  this  sort  of  service  is  really  a very  fine  one. 
At  the  eastern  extremity  of  Patna  is  a large  wood  of  palms,  and 
fruit-trees,  pointed  out  to  me  as  the  gardens  belonging  to  a sum- 
mer palace,  built  and  planted  by  the  Nawab  Jaffier  Ali  Khan. 
They  are  renowned  for  their  beauty  and  extent,  being  two  or 
three  miles  in  circuit.  We  also  passed  a large  and  dilapidated 
palace,  which  had  been  the  residence  of  the  late  Nawab  of  Patna, 
Abbas  Kouli  Khan,  a splendid  and  popular  person ; he  left  no 
successor,  but  his  nearest  heirs  are  two  very  intelligent  young 
men,  who  are  said  to  hold  some  lucrative  employment  under  the 
English  Government,  and  to  be  much  in  its  confidence.  The 
houses  of  the  rich  natives  which  we  passed,  pretty  much  resemble 
those  of  Calcutta.  They  have,  however,  the  advantage  of  imme- 
diately abutting  on  the  river,  and  I saw  one  which,  beneath  its 
Corinthian  superstructure,  had  a range  of  solid  buildings  of  the 
eastern  gothic,  with  pointed  arches  and  small  windows,  contain- 
ing a suite  of  apartments  almost  on  a level  with  the  water,  unin- 
habitable, I should  suppose,  from  damp  during  this  season,  but 
which  must  be  coolness  itself  during  the  hot  winds.  The  con- 
tinued mass  of  buildings  extends  about  four  miles  along  the  river, 
when  it  changes  into  scattered  cottages  and  bungalows,  inter- 
spersed with  trees,  till  some  more  large  and  handsome  buildings 
appear  about  three  miles  further.  This  is  Bankipoor,  where  are 
the  Company’s  opium  warehouses,  courts  of  justice,  &c.,  &c.,  and 
where  most  of  their  civil  servants  live.  1 had  an  invitation  from 
Sir  Charles  D’Oyley,  and  stopped  my  boat  literally  at  the  gate  of 
his  house,  which  stands  very  pleasantly  on  a high  bank  above  the 
river.  I met  here  a F ranciscan  friar,  a remarkably  handsome  and 
intelligent-looking  little  man,  whom  I immediately  and  rightly 
guessed  to  be  the  Italian  Padre,  “ Giulio  Cesare,”  of  whom  so 
much  mention  is  made  in  Martyn’s  Life.  I found  great  amuse- 
ment and  interest  in  looking  over  Sir  Charles’s  drawing  books  ; 
he  is  the  best  gentleman  artist  I ever  met  with.  He  says  India  is 
full  of  beautiful  and  picturesque  country,  if  people  would  but  stir 
a little  way  from  the  banks  of  the  Ganges,  and  his  own  drawings 
and  paintings  certainly  make  good  his  assertion.  The  D’Oyleys 
offered  me  very  kindly  a bed-room  on  shore,  which,  as  my  boat 
was  under  the  shelter  of  a high  bank,  1 found  much  cooler  than 


GRANARY, 


215 


the  cabin.  Soon  after  I arrived  I received  a large  packet  of 
letters,  and,  thank  God ! a more  comfortable  account  of  those 
dearest  to  me. 

The  wind  and  the  sea^  for  the  river  really  deserves  the  name, 
continued  to  rise  during  a greater  part  of  the  day,  so  that  the 
Corries,  it  was  very  plain,  could  not  get  past  the  rock  on  which 
the  fort  stands.  Indeed  we  afterwards  heard  that  at  Dinapoor, 
where  the  stream  is  also  usually  violent,  a budgerow  and  even  a 
pinnace  had  been  very  nearly  lost,  and  the  latter  actually  almost 
filled  with  water,  and  driven  ashore. 

After  dinner  Lady  D’Oyley  took  me  round  the  only  drive  which 
is  at  this  time  of  year  practicable,  being,  though  of  smaller  extent, 
much  such  a green  as  the  race-ground  at  Barrackpoor.  We 
passed  a high  building  shaped  something  like  a glass-house,  with 
a stair  winding  round  its  outside  up  to  the  top,  like  the  old  prints 
of  the  Tower  of  Babel.  It  was  built  as  a granary  for  the  district, 
in  pursuance  of  a plan  adopted  about  thirty-five  years  ago  by 
Government,  after  a great  famine,  as  a means  of  keeping  down 
the  price  of  grain,  but  abandoned  on  a supposed  discovery  of  its 
inefficacy,  since  no  means  in  their  hands,  nor  any  buildings  which 
they  could  construct,  without  laying  on  fresh  taxes,  would  have 
been  sufficient  to  collect  or  contain  more  than  one  day’s  provision 
for  the  vast  population  of  their  territories.  It  is  not  only  in  a time 
of  famine,  that,  in  a country  like  India,  the  benefit  of  public  grana^ 
ries  would  be  felt.  These  would  of  course  be  filled  by  the  agents 
of  the  Company  in  those  years  and  those  seasons  when  grain  was 
cheapest,  and  when  the  cultivator  was  likely  to  be  ruined  by  the 
impossibility  of  obtaining  a remunerating  price.  But  the  presence 
of  an  additional,  a steady  and  a wealthy  customer  at  such  times 
in  the  market,  to  the  amount  of  l-365th  of  the  whole  produce,  or 
even  less  than  that,  would  raise  the  price  of  grain  ten  or  even 
twenty  per  cent,  and  thus  operate  as  a steady  and  constant  bounty 
on  agriculture,  more  popular  by  far,  and,  as  I conceive,  more 
efficient  than  any  Corn  Law  which  could  be  devised.  It  appears 
to  me,  therefore,  that  a system  of  such  granaries,  even  on  a very 
moderate  scale,  throughout  the  Provinces,  would  not  only  essen- 
tially relieve  famine,  if  it  came,  but,  in  some  degree,  prevent  its 
coming ; that  it  would  improve  the  situation  both  of  Ryot  and 
Zemindar,  and  make  them  more  able  to  pay  their  dues  to  Govern- 
ment, while,  as  there  is  no  necessity  or  advantage  (but  rather  the 
contrary)  that  the  corn  thus  hoarded  should  be  given  away,  the 
expense  to  the  Company  would  not  be  very  much  more  than  the 
first  cost  and  subsequent  repair  of  the  buildings,  and  the  wages  of 
the  needful  agents  and  labourers.  I am  well  aware  of  the  usual 
answer,  that  it  is  better  to  leave  these  things  to  private  compe- 
tition and  speculation,  that  much  of  the  grainlhus  collected  would 


^16 


PADRE  GIULIO. 


be  spoiled,  and  become  unfit  for  use,  &c.  But  the  first  assumes 
a fact  which  in  India,  I believe,  is  not  correct,  that  there  is  either 
sufficient  capital  or  enterprise  to  enable  or  induce  individuals  to 
store  up  corn  in  the  manner  contemplated.  As  for  the  second,  it 
would  obviously  be,  in  years  of  over  production,  an  equal  benefit 
to  the  cultivator  to  have  a part  of  his  stock  purchased  and  with- 
drawn from  present  consumption,  even  though  what  was  thus 
purchased  were  actually  burnt,  while,  though  to  keep  the  grana- 
ries full  of  good  grain  would  of  course  be  more  expensive  to 
Government,  from  the  perishable  nature  of  the  commodity,  yet  it 
would  be  easy  so  to  calculate  the  selling  price  as  to  cover  this 
charge,  and  avoid  the  necessity  of  imposing  fresh  public  burthens. 
On  the  whole,  therefore,  I am  inclined  to  believe  that  the  measure 
was  a wise  one,  and  well  adapted  to  the  state  of  India,  though  it 
is  one,  undoubtedly,  which  could  only  be  carried  into  effect  in 
peaceable  times,  and  when  there  was  a considerable  surplus  reve- 
nue. I know  my  dear  wife  has  no  objection  to  this  sort  of 
politico-economical  discussion,  and  therefore  send  it  without  fear- 
ing to  tire  her.  The  building  which  has  called  it  forth  is  said  to 
have  many  imperfections,  which  made  it  very  unfit  for  its  desti- 
nation. The  idea  itself,  which  is  to  pour  the  corn  in  at  the  top, 
and  take  it  out  through  a small  door  at  the  bottom,  I think  a good 
one.  But  it  is  said  to  be  ill-built,  and  by  far  too  weak  to  support 
the  weight  of  its  intended  contents,  while  by  a refinement  in 
absurdity,  the  door  at  the  bottom  is  made  to  open  inwards,  and 
consequently  when  the  granary  was  full,  could  never  have  been 
opened  at  all.  It  is  now  occasionally  used  as  a powder  magazine, 
but  is  at  this  moment  quite  empty,  and  only  visited  sometimes  for 
the  sake  of  its  echo,  which  is  very  favourable  to  performances  on 
the  flute  or  bugle.  Underneath  its  walls  I had  a good  deal  of 
conversation  with  Padre  Giulio,  who  speaks  French,  though  not 
well,  yet  fluently.  He  is  thoroughly  a man  of  the  world,  smooth, 
insinuating,  addicted  to  paying  compliments,  and  from  his  various 
accomplishments  an  acceptable  guest  at  all  English  houses,  where 
French  or  Italian  is  understood.  He  spoke  with  great  affection 
of  Martyn,  who  thought  well  of  him,  and  almost  hoped  that  he 
had  converted  him  from  popery. 

He  was  apparently  much  pleased  with  the  notice  which  I paid 
him,  and  I certainly  was  much  amused  and  interested  with  his 
conversation.  I found  him  a great  admirer  of  Metastasio,  and 
of  course  not  fond  of  Alfieri.  He  himself  is,  indeed,  a Milanese, 
so  that  he  feels  for  the  former  as  for  a countryman  as  well  as  a 
brother  ecclesiastic.  This  sect,  he  said,  had  had  a heavy  loss  in 
India  by  the  recent  death  of  the  Romish  Bishop  of  Thibet,  who 
came  out  a little  before  my  arrival,  and  who  was  also  an  Italian 
of  good  family,  and  a very  elegant  and  accomplished  scholar. 


- DINAPOOR. 


217 


He  died  in  this  neighbourhood  about  two  months  ago.  I recollect 
Lord  Amherst  speaking  of  him,  and  he  on  his  part,  Giulio  said, 
spoke  much  of  Lord  Amherst’s  good  nature,  and  good  Italian. 

August  21 . — -The  Corries  arrived  this  morning ; with  the  Arch- 
deacon and  Mr.  Northmore,  who  came  over  from  Dinapoor,  1 
had  to  arrange  the  duties  of  the  next  day.  The  distance,  it  ap- 
pears, from  Bankipoor  to  Dinapoor  is  full  seven  miles  in  the  dry 
season,  at  present  between  eight  and  nine,  and  through  roads  often 
impassable  for  a carriage.  The  majority  of  the  Europeans  in  the 
neighbourhood  (now  that  the  44th  regiment  is  no  longer  quar- 
tered here)  live  in  Bankipoor  and  Patna,  so  that  Sir  C.  D’Oyley 
was  anxious  that  I should  preach  here  rather  than  at  Dinapoor. 
I thought  of  doing  both,  but  was  dissuaded  from  a journey  in  the 
heat  of  the  day,  and  I settled  to  remain  here  till  Tuesday  morn- 
ing, and  then  go  to  Dinapoor  to  preach,  and  administer  confir- 
mation. I find  that  the  river,  which  offers  at  this  moment  so 
noble  a sheet  of  water  close  to  the  garden-gate,  is,  in  the  dry 
season,  two  miles  off,  and  scarcely  visible,  there  being  only  some 
small  nullahs  in  the  intervening  space,  which  is  then  cultivated 
with  rice  and  oats. 

August  22. — Mr.  Corrie  read  prayers,  and  I preached  to  a 
congregation  of,  I should  suppose,  fifty  people,  all  of  the  upper 
or  middling  ranks,  of  whom  I think  thirty  staid  to  receive  the 
sacrament.  The  service  was  performed  in  a large  and  convenient 
room,  the  Court  of  Appeal,  and  a handsome  service  of  commu- 
nion plate  was  produced,  preserved  from  the  time  that  the  Com- 
pany’s chaplain,  now  removed  to  Dinapoor,  was  stationed  at 
Patna.  A very  earnest  and  general  wish  was  expressed  that 
Government  would  allow  them  a chaplain  still.  This,  with  the 
present  establishment,  and  the  great  demands  on  it,  is,  I fear,  never 
likely  to  be  granted ; but  it  would  be  a very  great  advantage  and 
convenience  to  the  place,  and  would  be  attended  with  little  ex- 
pense in  comparison,  if  an  allowance  were  made  the  chaplain  at 
. Dinapoor  for  a lodging  and  palanquin  hire,  and  he  were  enjoined 
to  visit  Patna  once  a month.  Some  measure  of  the  kind,  with 
regard  to  this  and  many  other  stations  almost  similarly  situated, 
I hope  myself  to  suggest  to  Government,  as  soon  as  I am  better 
informed  in  the  necessary  details  of  the  plans. 

Lady  D’Oyley  took  me  this  evening  through  some  of  the  bazars, 
and  a part  of  a long  avenue  of  trees  extending  several  miles  into 
the  country.  Many  of  them  are  of  great  size,  but  the  whole  she 
said  were  planted  by  the  senior  judge,  Mr.  Douglas,  an  old  man 
who  has  been  a resident  in  or  near  Patna  for  more  than  thirty 
years,  during  which  he  has  only  been  once  from  it  as  far  as  Dina- 
poor. The  houses  of  the  natives  here  are  almost  all  of  mud, 
but  their  tiled  roofs  and  verandahs  give  them  a better  aspect  than 

VoL.  I. — 28 


218 


DINAPOOR. 


the  common  Bengalee  cottage.  The  hackeries  are  very  different 
from  those  of  Calcutta,  being  little  tabernacles,  like  the  moveable 
military  shrines  represented  on  ancient  monuments,  with  curtains 
and  awnings,  and  drawn  either  by  one  horse  or  two  oxen. 

We  had  a very  pleasant  quiet  evening,  such  as  a Sunday  even- 
ing ought  to  be,  and  concluded  with  family  prayers.  On  the 
whole  1 have  been  greatly  pleased  and  interested  with  this  visit. 

I observed  in  the  course  of  the  day  a singular  custom  among 
the  Europeans  here ; they  have  no  regular  burial-ground,  but 
inter  their  deceased  relatives  in  their  gardens  and  pleasure- 
grounds.  Little  urns  and  obelisks  of  this  kind  meet  the  eye  near 
most  of  the  bungalows,  and  there  is  one  of  the  former  under  a 
fine  tamarind  tree,  close  to  Sir  C.  D’Oyley’s  windows. 

August  23. — This  day,  like  those  which  had  gone  before  it, 
was  passed  very  agreeably,  so  much  of  it  as  I could  spare  from 
business,  in  the  society  of  my  new  friends,  but  offered  nothing 
remarkable.  There  was  a large  party  to  dinner,  which  broke 
up  early,  and  I spent  the  rest  of  the  evening  in  very  agreeable 
conversation  with  the  family  circle. 

August  24. — Sir  C.  D’Oyley  sent  me  in  his  carriage  half-way 
to  Dinapoor,  where  Mr.  Northmore’s  carriage  met  me.  The 
Archdeacon  went  in  a ‘‘  Tonjon,”  a chair  with  a head  like  a gig, 
carried  by  bearers.  The  whole  way  lies  between  scattered 
bungalows,  bazars,  and  other  buildings,  intermixed  with  gardens 
and  mangoe  groves ; and  three  days  without  rain  had  made  the 
direct  road  not  only  passable,  but  very  reasonably  good.  As  we 
approached  Dinapoor,  symptoms  began  to  appear  of  a great  Eng- 
lish military  station,  and  it  was  whimsical  to  see  peeping  out 
from  beneath  the  palms  and  plantains,  large  blue  boards  with 
gilt  letters  “Digah  Farm,  Havell,  Victualler,”  &c.  “Morris, 
Tailor.”  “Davis,  Europe  Warehouse,”  &c.  The  cantonment  itself 
is  the  largest  and  handsomest  which  I have  seen,  with  a very  fine 
quay,  looking  like  a battery,  to  the  river,  and  I think  three  ex- 
tensive squares  of  barracks  uniformly  built,  of  one  lofty  ground 
story  well  raised,  stuccoed,  and  ornamented  with  arcaded  win- 
dows, and  pillars  between  each.  There  are  also  extensive  and, 
I understood,  very  handsome  barracks  for  the  native  troops,  which 
1 did  not  see,  those  which  I described  being  for  Europeans,  of 
whom  there  are  generally  here  one  King’s  regiment,  one  Com- 
pany’s, and  a numerous  corps  of  artillery.  Every  thing,  in  fact,  is 
on  a liberal  scale,  except  what  belongs  to  the  church,  and  the 
spiritual  interests  of  the  inhabitants  and  neighbourhood.  The 
former  I found  merely  a small  and  inconvenient  room  in  the  bar- 
racks, which  seemed  as  if  it  had  been  designed  for  a hospital- 
ward  ; the  reading-desk,  surplice,  books,  &;c.  were  all  meaner 
and  shabbier  than  are  to  be  seen  in  the  poorest  village  chapel  in 


DINAPOOR. 


219 


England  or  Wales  ; there  were  no  punkahs,  no  wall-shades,  or 
other  means  for  lighting  up  the  church,  no  glass  in  the  windows, 
no  font,  and  till  a paltry  deal  stand  was  brought  for  my  use,  out 
of  an  adjoining  warehouse,  no  communion  table.  Bishop  Mid- 
dleton objected  to  administer  confirmation  in  any  but  churches 
regularly  built,  furnished  and  consecrated.  But  though  I do  not 
think  that  in  India  we  need  be  so  particular,  I heartily  wished,  in 
the  present  case,  to  see  things  more  as  they  should  be,  and  as  1 
had  been  accustomed  to  see  them.  Nor,  in  more  essential  points, 
was  there  much  to  console  me  for  this  neglect  of  external  de- 
cencies. I had  only  fourteen  candidates  for  confirmation,  some 
of  them  so  young  that  1 almost  doubted  the  propriety  of  admit- 
ting them,  and  there  were  perhaps  a dozen  persons  besides  in  the 
church.  It  is  very  true  that  the  King’s  regiment  (the  44th)  was 
absent,  but  the  Company’s  European  regiment,  most  of  them 
young  men,  might  have  been  expected  to  furnish,  of  itself,  no 
inconsiderable  number,  when  the  conduct  of  those  at  Dum  Dum 
on  similar  occasions  is  recollected.  There  are,  likewise,  several 
indigo-planters  in  the  neighbourhood,  many  of  them  with  families, 
and  many  others  who  had  themselves  never  been  confirmed,  to 
whom  the  chaplain  of  the  station  had  long  since  sent  notice,  but 
who  had  none  of  them  given  any  answer  to  his  letters  ; he,  in- 
deed, (whom  I found  extremely  desirous  of  contributing  to  the 
improvement  of  the  people  under  his  care,)  lamented  in  a very 
natural  and  unaffected  manner  the  gross  neglect  of  Sunday,  the 
extraordinary  inattention  on  the  part  of  the  lower  classes  to  all 
religious  concerns,  and  the  indifference  hitherto  shown  by  the 
Company’s  military  officers  now  at  Dinapoor  to  every  thing  like 
religious  improvement.  While  the  44th  was  here,  a very  differ- 
ent and  admirable  example  was  set  by  Colonel  Morrison  and  his 
officers,  and  the  men  themselves  were  most  of  them  patterns  of 
decent  conduct  and  regular  attendance  in  church,  not  only  in  the 
morning,  but  in  the  evening,  at  which  time  their  attendance  was 
' perfectly  voluntary. 

There  had  been  a school  for  the  European  children  and  those 
recruits  who  could  not  read,  but  this  had  fallen  to  decay,  because 
nobody  would  subscribe,  and  the  chaplain  alone  could  not  support 
it.  The  Government  sent,  six  months  ago,a  lending  library  for 
the  use  of  their  European  soldiers,  and  allowed  eight  rupees  a 
month  to  the  clerk  for  keeping  it ; but  the  brigade  major,  to  whom  ; 
the  books  were  consigned,  had  never  unpacked  them,  alleging  • 
(of  which  he  was  not  the  proper  judge)  “ that  they  were  too  few 
to  be  of  any  use,”  and  “ that  there  was  no  place  to  put  them  in,” 
as  if  a corner  of  the  room  now  used  as  a church  would  not  have 
answered  the  purpose  perfectly. 

Of  the  European  regiment,  though  it  was  “ in  orders”  that  the 


220 


DINAPOOR. 


men  should  attend  church  every  Sunday,  very  few  ever  came, 
and  seldom  any  officer  but  the  adjutant;  and  the  neighbouring 
planters  seemed  utterly  without  religion  of  any  kind,  never  ap- 
plying to  the  clergyman  except  for  marriage,  burial,  and  the 
baptizing  of  their  children.  Mr.  Northmore,  who  gave  me  this 
account,  complained  that  he  was  often  sadly  discouraged,  and  led 
to  fear  that  some  deficiency  in  himself  was  the  cause  of  this  ne- 
glect of  his  ministry,  but  that  he  was  comforted  to  find  his  attend- 
ance both  acceptable  and  useful  to  the  sick  men  in  the  hospital, 
where,  indeed,  I hear  his  conduct  is  marked  by  very  great  diligence 
and  humanity.  For  the  lamentable  state  of  things  of  which  he 
complains,  there  are  many  reasons  for  which  he  can  in  nowise  be 
accountable,  and  which,  to  prevent  his  being  discouraged,  I took 
care  to  point  out  to  him.  One  of  these  I shall  probably  find  but 
too  prevalent  throughout  the  Indian  army,  where  the  early  age 
at  which  the  officers  leave  England,  the  little  control  to  which 
they  are  afterwards  subjected,  and  the  very  few  opportunities 
afforded  to  most  of  them  of  ever  hearing  a sermon,  or  joining  in 
public  prayer,  might  be  expected  to  heathenize  them  even  far 
more  than  we  find  is  the  case. 

But  at  Dinapoor  something  may  be  also  ascribed  to  the 
exceeding  bad  conduct  of  the  late  chaplain,  which  must  have 
driven  many  from  the  church,  whom  it  would  be  very  difficult  for 
the  most  popular  preacher  to  entice  back  again.  And  the  want  of 
a decent  church  is  the  strongest  cause  of  all.  The  present  room 
barely  affords  accommodation  for  half  the  soldiers  who  might  be 
expected  to  attend,  without  leaving  any  for  the  officers’  families, 
or  the  neighbouring  planters.  These,  therefore,  though  room  is 
generally  to  be  had,  have  an  excuse  to  offer  to  their  consciences 
for  not  attending ; and  it  is  really  true,  that  for  women  and  chil- 
dren of  the  upper  class  to  sit  jostling  with  soldiers  in  a small  close 
room,  without  punkahs,  with  a drive  of  perhaps  three  or  four 
miles  before  and  after  service,  is  not  a prospect  which  would 
make  a man  very  fond  of  bringing  his  family  to  attend  divine 
service.  A spacious  and  airy  church  would  greatly  remove  these 
difficulties.  Government  did,  I understand,  promise  one  some 
time  back ; but  the  military  officers,  to  whom  the  preparation  of 
the  estimate  and  plan  were  left,  took  no  trouble  in  the  business. 
On  the  whole,  what  I saw  and  heard,  both  at  and  after  church, 
made  me  low  and  sad,  to  which  perhaps  the  heat  of  the  day,  the 
most  oppressive  I have  yet  felt  in  India,  greatly  contributed. 

On  my  return  to  the  pinnace,  which  had  meantime  come  on 
from  Bankipoor,  I found  that,  to  avoid  the  fury  of  the  stream,  they 
had  moored  her  in  a narrow  nullah,  which  constitutes  the  harbour 
of  Dinapoor,  and  which  was  filled  with  all  kinds  of  vessels,  while 
one  of  its  banks  was  covered  with  warehouses,  and  the  other 


DIGAH  FARM. 


221 


occupied  by  a great  cattle-fair.  The  heat  was  intense,  and  no  breath 
of  air  could  visit  us,  whilst,  as  evening  came  on,  we  were  sure  of 
being  devoured  by  musquitoes.  I soon  made  up  my  mind,  and 
told  the  Serang  to  leave  the  nullah  and  anchor  in  the  middle  of 
the  river,  when  I had  dressed  and  left  the  pinnace,  and  to  have 
the  jolly-boat  waiting  for  me  at  night,  on  the  beach,  below  the 
battery. 

In  the  evening  Mr.  Northmore  called  to  take  me  a drive 
before  dinner.  We  went  to  “ Digah  Farm,”  the  place  1 had 
passed  in  the  morning,  which  is  extremely  well  worth  seeing.  It 
is  a tavern,  a large  ground-floored  house  with  excellent  rooms, 
very  handsomely  fitted  up,  surrounded  with  some  of  the  most 
extensive  ranges  of  cow-houses,  pig-styes,  places  for  fattening 
sheep  and  cattle,  dairies,  &:c.  that  I ever  saw,  all  kept  beautifully 
clean,  with  a large  grass  court  full  of  poultry,  and  in  the  middle 
a very  pretty  flower-garden.  To  the  back  is  a large  kitchen-gar- 
den, and  beyond  this  stacks  of  oats  and  other  grain,  not  unworthy 
of  an  English  farmer.  The  keeper  is  named  Havell,  a very 
respectable  man.  He  is  the  butcher,  corn-dealer,  brewer,  wine- 
merchant,  confectioner,  and  wax-chandler  of  all  this  part  of  India. 

During  the  drive  1 endeavoured  to  put  Mr.  Northmore  in  the 
way  of  getting  some  of  those  aids  from  the  military  officers  of  the 
cantonment,  to  which,  by  the  regulations  of  Government,  he  is 
entitled.  And  afterwards  at  dinner,  where  were  present  most  of 
the  officers  now  in  garrison,  I succeeded,  I hope,  in  getting  the 
re-establishmenj:  of  the  school,  together  with  the  assurance  from 
the  colonel  of  the  European  regiment,  that  he  would  urge  his 
recruits  to  attend,  and  promote  only  those  men  to  be  non-commis- 
sioned officers  who  could  read  and  write  ; a measure  which  would 
soon  make  reading  and  writing  universal.  The  brigade-major  was 
not  present,  but  I said  all  I could  to  the  colonel  about  the  lending 
library,  and  a more  regular  attendance  of  the  troops  in  church, 
and  was  glad  to  find  what  1 said  extremely  well  taken.  The 
library  I think  1 have  secured,  since  every  body  present  seemed 
pleased  with  the  idea,  when  the  nature  of  its  contents  and  the 
system  of  circulation  were  explained.  The  heat  was  something 
which  a man  who  had  not  been  out  of  Europe  would  scarcely 
conceive,  and  the  party,  out  of  etiquette  on  my  account,  were  all 
in  their  cloth  uniforms.  I soon  put  them  at  their  ease,  however, 
in  this  particular ; and  I am  almost  inclined  to  hope  that  the  white 
jackets  which  were  immediately  sent  for,  put  them  in  better 
humour  both  with  me  and  my  suggestions. 

I was  much  pressed  to  stay  over  the  next  Sunday,  or  at  least 
a few  days  longer ; but  it  is  only  by  going  to-morrow  that  1 can 
hope  to  reach  Ghazeepoor,  or  even  Buxar,  by  Sunday  next ; and 


222 


CHUPRAH— FLOATING  SHOPS. 


all  agreed,  on  telling  them  what  I had  to  do,  that  1 had  no  time 
to  spare  in  order  to  reach  Bombay  before  the  hot  winds. 

August  25. — I parted  from  Dinapoor  under  a salute  of  artillery, 
and  sailed  along  the  northern  bank,  which,  where  we  first  ap- 
proached it,  presented  an  outline  far  bolder  and  more  abrupt  than 
most  which  1 have  seen  on  the  Ganges,  being  a precipitous  bank 
of  red  earth  overhung  with  trees  and  shrubs,  with  a native  house 
of  some  consequence  on  its  summit. 

About  noon  we  arrived  at  Chuprah,  a large  town  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  river,  or  rather  on  an  arm  of  the  river  divided  from 
the  main  stream  by  some  marshy  islands.  Chuprah  was  the  scene 
of  a defeat  received  by  Mr.  Law,  from,  1 believe.  Sir  Eyre  Coote, 
(then  Capt.  Coote.)  It  is  now"  the  chief  town  of  the  district  of 
Sarum,  and  the  residence  of. the  Judge  and  Collector;  and  con- 
tains also  a good  many  large,  handsome,  native  houses,  and  one 
very  pretty  mosque,  or  pagoda,  I know  not  which.  Its  architec- 
ture resembles  the  first, — but  there  are  a peepul-tree,  ghat,  and 
other  things  near  it,  which  lead  me  to  suspect  the  latter,  and  I 
do  not  think  its  entrance  tallies  with  the  regard  shown  in  all 
mosques  to  the  Kibla.  While  I was  in  this  place,  vainly  waiting 
for  the  Corries,  a very  fine  and  fast  sailing  budgerow  arrived  with 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Anson,  on  their  way  to  join  his  regiment  at  Meerut, 
and  we  proceeded  together. 

Near  our  halting  place,  which  was  a very  pleasant  one,  was  a 
little  open  shed  occupied  by  a Hindoo  ascetic,  with  a double 
quantity  of  dung  and  chalk  on  his  face,  who  was  singing  in  a 
plaintive  monotonous  tone  to  a little  knot  of  peasants,  who  seem- 
ed to  regard  him  with  great  veneration.  He  did  not  beg  of  us, 
but  suspended  his  hymn  while  we  passed  between  him  and  the 
Ganges.  He  had  not  the  tiger-skin,  which  those  whom  I saw  at 
Boglipoor  appeared  to  take  particular  pleasure  in  displaying.  A 
village  was  near,  and  a fine  orchard  of  mangoe-trees ; a number 
of  bearers  passed  with  packages  of  various  kinds,  belonging,  as 
they  said,  to  a certain  potentate  named  the  “ Dum-Raja,”  who 
was  crossing  the  country  to  pay  a visit  somewhere  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood. I was  in  hopes  of  an  opportunity  to  see  an  Indian  of  • 
rank  on  a journey,  but  it  appeared  that  the  great  man  had  already 
passed.  We  overtook  a number  of  vessels  to-day,  two  of  them 
of  a curious  and  characteristic  description.  One  was  a budgerow 
at  Chuprah,  pretty  deeply  laden,  with  a large  blue  board  on  its 
side  like  that  of  an  academy  in  England,  inscribed  “ Goods  for 
sale  on  commission,”  being  in  fact  strictly  a floating  shop,  which 
supplied  all  the  smaller  stations  with,  what  its  owners  would 
probably  call,  “ Europe  articles.”  The  other  was  a more  ele- 
gant vessel  of  the  same  kind,  being  one  of  the  prettiest  pinnaces 
I ever  saw,  with  an  awning  spread  over  the  quarter-deck,  under 


FILIAL  PIETY  OF  NATIVES. 


223 


which  sate  a lady  and  two  gentlemen  reading,  and  looking  so 
comfortable  that  1 could  have  liked  to  join  their  party.  I found 
that  it  was  the  floating  shop  of  a wealthy  tradesman  at  Dinapoor, 
who,  towards  the  middle  of  the  rains,  always  sets  out  in  this  manner 
with  his  wife,  to  make  the  tower  of  the  Upper  Provinces,  as  high 
as  his  boat  could  carry  him,  ascending  alternate  years,  or  as  he 
finds  most  custom,  to  Agra,  Meerut,  or  Lucknow,  by  their  respec- 
tive rivers,  and  furnishing  glass,  cutlery,  perfumery,  &c.  &c.  to 
the  mountaineers  of  Deyra  Doon,  and  the  Zennanas  of  Runjeet 
Singh  and  Scindeah.  We  passed  in  the  course  of  this  day  the 
mouths  of  no  less  than  three  great  rivers  falling  into  the  Ganges 
from  different  quarters,  the  Soane  from  the  south  and  the  moun- 
tains of  Gundwana,  the  Gunduch  from  Nepaul,  and  the  Dewah 
from,  I believe,  the  neighbourhood  of  Almorah : each  of  the  three 
is  larger,  and  of  longer  course  than  the  Thames  or  Severn.  What 
an  idea  does  this  give  us  of  the  scale  on  which  Nature  works  in 
these  countries ! 

The  heat  all  this  day  would  have  been  intense,  had  not  the 
breeze  tempered  it.  No  rain  has  fallen  for  many  days. 

August  26. — Our  fine  wind  continued,  which  was  the  more 
fortunate  since  the  sun  was  intensely  hot  and  bright.  In  our  way 
to  Buxar  the  Sirdar  came  to  me  with  hands  joined,  and  that  sort 
of  anxious  smile  which  signifies  that  its  wearer  is  about  to  ask  a 
favour.  He  said  that  his  parents  lived  close  to  the  place  where 
we  now  were,  and  requested  a two  days’  leave  of  absence,  (pro- 
mising to  join  me  on  Sunday  night  at  Ghazeepoor,)  and  also  that 
I would  advance  him  a month’s  wages  to  leave  with  them.  I could 
not  refuse  him,  though  he  is  a very  valuable  person  on  board,  and 
mention  it  because  it  seems  to  show  that  among  these  poor  peo- 
ple there  is  at  lea^t  filial  piety.  The  calling  to  see  them  was,  in- 
deed, natural ; but  the  gift  of  the  month’s  wages  was  what  many 
valets-de-chambre  in  England  would  have  thought,  I fear,  “ quite 
out  of  character.”  I forgot  to  mention  in  the  proper  place  that 
. the  Sota-burdar  had  made  a similar  request  at  Bankipoor,  where 
he  had,  he  said,  a wife  and  three  children  still  at  home,  and  that 
Abdullah,  whose  friends  also  live  in  Patna,  had  been  to  see  them, 
and  brought  back  with  him  divers  books,  clothes,  and  other  things 
which  he  had  left  behind  him,  when  he  undertook  that  voyage  to 
England,  in  his  return  from  which  we  met  him.  He,  however, 
did  not  ask  for  any  advance  of  money,  as  he  said  his  relations 
were  pretty  well  off,  and  more  able  to  help  him  than  he  them. 
He  did  not  seem  to  anticipate  much  kindness  of  reception,  but 
returned  in  good  spirits,  and  asked  for  another  day’s  leave  of 
absence. 

I found  Buxar,  (which  I had  expected  to  see  a little  ruinous 
fort,  remarkable  only  as  the  scene  of  the  battle  which  confirmed 


BUXAR. 


S24 

the  British  in  the  possession  of  Bengal  and  Bahar,)  a large  and 
respectable  Mussulman  town,  with  several  handsome  mosques — 
one  of  the  largest  and  neatest  bazars  which  I have  seen,  and  some 
good  looking  European  bungalows.  We  had  some  difficulty, 
owing  to  a crowd  of  boats,  in  getting  our  little  vessel  moored  in  a 
nullah,  (or  colly,  as  they  call  them  here,)  which  is  the  usual 
harbour  of  the  place.  1 could  have  preferred  the  open  river,  but 
the  beach  was  very  inconvenient,  and  the  stream  so  strong  that  I 
did  not  like  to  press  the  point.  Nor  was  the  creek  in  question  by 
any  means  so  close  and  hot  as  that  at  Dinapoor.  As  soon  as  we 
touched  ground,  I sent  a letter  to  Captain  Field,  the  fort  adjutant, 
requesting  him  to  make  my  arrival  known  to  the  Europeans  in 
garrisori,  in  order  that,  if  there  was  any  clerical  assistance  wanted, 
they  might  call  on  me  in  the  forenoon  of  the  next  day.  1 was 
soon  afterwards  visited  by  Captain  Field,  who  said  he  had  imme- 
diately sent  round  the  requisite  notice,  and  apprehended  that  there 
would  be  some  glad  to  avail  themselves  of  it.  He  told  me,  to  my 
surprise,  that  he  had  no  fewer  than  1 50  Europeans  in  garrison, 
his  whole  force  amounting  to  600  men.  He  also  apologised  for 
not  having  saluted  me  on  my  arrival,  and  on  my  telling  him  that 
I always  supposed  his  fort  was  dismantled,  he  said  that  it  was 
still  so  far  in  good  order  that  nothing  but  an  European  force 
could  take  it,  except  by  a very  long  siege.  On  hearing  the  num- 
ber of  Europeans,  I expressed  my  regret  that  I could  not,  without 
great  inconvenience,  stay  over  Sunday ; to  which  he  replied,  that 
he  was  convinced,  (as  they  had  so  very  seldom  an  opportunity  of 
attending  divine  service,)  they  would  thankfully  assemble  if  I 
would  give  them  prayers  and  a sermon  at  ten  the  next  day,  to 
which,  of  course,  1 gladly  consented.  A welcome  shower  of  rain 
fell  this  evening. 

August  27. — 1 went  in  the  morning  with  Captain  Field  to  see 
the  fort,  which  is  a small  square,  with  a high  rampart  cased  with 
turf,  four  circular  bastions,  a deep  and  wide  ditch,  a good  glacis, 
and  a sort  of  lower  fort,  extending  to  and  commanding  the  river. 
The  view  from  the  ramparts  is  pleasing  and  extensive.  There 
is  one  quarter  which  is,  I think,  extremely  assailable,  and  which 
Major  Dugald  Dalgetty  would  unquestionably  have  pressed  him  to 
fortify.  Still,  as  he  truly  said,  it  might  stand  a siege  of  some 
length  from  a native  army,  and  its  situation  on  the  Ganges  in  its 
nearest  approach  to  the  Goorkah  territories,  might  make  such  a 
defence  by  no  means  unimportant,  in  the  event  of  a rupture  with 
those  mountaineers.  It  is  this  possibility,  indeed,  which  now 
constitutes  the  principal  value  of  the  great  stations  of  Dinapoor 
and  Ghazeepoor. 

After  breakfast  I went  to  Captain  Field’s  house,  which  he  had 
arranged,  as  well  as  it  admitted  of,  as  a church.  The  principal 


MRS.  SIMPSON. 


225 


room,  and  the  adjoining  verandah,  were  filled  with  old  soldiers  : 
two  little  rooms  on  each  side  contained,  to  my  surprise,  a number 
of  natives,  mostly  women  and  children,  while  some  officers  and 
their  wives  were  ranged  round  my  desk.  All  were  very  attentive, 
and  the  old  soldiers  more  particularly,  (who  had  almost  all  prayer 
books,)  joined  in  the  responses  with  a regularity,  an  exactness 
and  a zeal,  which  much  affected  me,  and  showed  how  much,  in 
their  situation,  they  felt  the  blessing  of  an  opportunity  of  public 
worship.  I more  than  half  repented  of  my  intention  to  leave 
them  before  Monday.  But  1 was  aware  that  Ghazeepoor  had  at 
least  an  equally  numerous  congregation,  equally  without  a clergy- 
man ; and  it  occurred  to  me  that  the  archdeacon  might  stay  here, 
and  join  me  in  time  for  the  confirmation  on  Tuesday.  This  good 
man  had  never  told  me  of  the  native  Christians  at  Buxar ; yet 
they  are  most  of  them  the  children  of  his  own  quiet  and  unwea- 
ried exertions  in  the  cause  of  God.  Some  of  them  came  up  after 
church  to  beg  for  Hindoostanee  Prayer-books  and  Gospels,  a few 
of  which  1 was  able  to  supply  them  with. 

The  schoolmaster,  too,  a Mussulman  convert  of  the  name  of 
“ Curreem  Museeh,”  mercy  of  Messiah,  came  up  to  offer  the 
report  of  his  scholars,  and  to  hope.l  would  come  and  see  them 
assembled.  I went  in  my  Palkee,  after  consigning  to  Captain 
Field  some  Bibles  and  tracts  for  his  men,  through  some  pretty 
green  lanes  and  shady  places,  resembling  the  neighbourhood  of 
an  English  village,  escorted  by  Captain  Field  in  his  Tonjon,  with 
full  pomp  of  orderly  serjeant,  spear-men,  and  other  equipments 
of  an  up-country  commandant,  and  followed  by  a marvellous 
crowd  of  women  and  boys  whom  my  silver-sticks  attracted. 
Being  one  of  the  great  days  in  the  feast  of  Mohurrun,  we  found 
the  tomb  of  a Mussulman  saint  decorated  with  three  green  ban- 
ners, and  other  preparations  for  their  prayers  ; but  when  we  passed 
nobody  was  there,  and  its  appearance  was  so  like  a cross  in  a 
market-town  during  fair  time,  that  it  did  not  detract  from  the 
' English  appearance  of  the  view. 

We  stopped  at  the  door  of  a very  neat  native  cottage,  sur- 
rounded by  a garden  of  plantains  and  potatoes,  with  flowers  trained 
round  the  gate,  and  a high  green  hedge  of  the  prickly  pear.  Here 
lived  a Mrs.  Simpson,  a native  of  Agra,  and  one  of  Mr.  Corrie’s 
converts,  now  the  widow  of  a serjeant  in  the  Company’s  service, 
and  getting  her  bread  by  teaching  a few  girls  to  read  and  work. 
She  asked  anxiously  about  Mr.  Corrie,  but  there  was  no  appear- 
ance of  cant  about  her  ; indeed  her  stock  of  English  did  not  seem 
very  extensive.  Here  one  of  the  English  serjeants,  with  his  wife, 
a very  pretty  native  girl,  baptized,  as  I understood,  by  Mr.  Pal- 
mer of  Ghazeepoor,  brought  their  son,  a fine  boy  of  four  years  old, 
for  baptism  ; and  during  the  ceremony  a number  of  females  and 
VoL.  I. — 29 


2^26 


BUXAR  SCHOOL. 


children  remained  in  the  garden  and  verandah,  carefully  kneeling 
when  we  kneeled,  and  bowing  at  every  repetition  of  the  name  of 
Jesus.  The  scene  was  very  interesting,  and  the  beauty  of  the 
])ack-ground,  the  frame  of  the  picture,  and  the  costume  of  the 
worshippers,  added  to  its  picturesque  beauty.  At  the  close  of  the 
ceremony  Curreem  Museeh  went  out  to  speak  to  them,  and  they 
ran  off,  I did  not  know  why.  Mrs.  Simpson  said  she  had  a very 
small  subscription  raised  by  some  ladies  in  the  neighbourhood, 
amounting  to  four  rupees  a month  for  her  school,  but  that  her 
neighbours  sometimes  helped  her.  She  owned  that  she  had 
seldom  more  than  six  or  eight  scholars,  children  of  the  European 
soldiers  chiefly,  to  whom  she  taught  reading  and  working.  She 
asked  for  nothing  but  a prayer-book  (she  had  a very  good  Hin- 
doostanee  New  Testament  and  Pentateuch,  and  some  spelling- 
books  for  her  school),  but  accepted  a small  donation  with  much 
thankfulness. 

Curreem  Museeh’s  house,  which  we  next  visited,  was  still 
smaller  than  Mrs.  Simpson’s,  and  had  not  the  few  old  pieces  of 
European  furniture,  which,  in  hers,  marked  her  husband’s  nation 
and  profession.  Adjoining  it  was  a little  school-house,  which  we 
found  full  of  women  and  children  (about  30  or  35)  on  the  ground, 
which  was  spread  with  mats,  with  their  books  in  their  laps.  This 
served  as  their  church  also,  where  they  and  a few  of  their  hus- 
bands, mostly  European  soldiers,  who  understood  Hindoostanee, 
met  three  times  a week  in  the  evening  for  prayer.  This  school 
is  supported,  and  Curreem  Museeh’s  salary  paid,  by  the  Church 
Missionary  Society,  and  they  have  been  sometimes,  though  very 
rarely,  visited  by  a Missionary  in  orders.  I regretted  greatly  that 
I could  not  address  them  with  any  effect  in  their  own  language, 
though  I was  strongly  tempted  to  try  ; they,  many  of  them,  indeed, 
knew  a little  English,  but  so  little  that  they  could  not  have  been 
at  all  the  better  for  any  thing  said  to  them  in  that  tongue,  nor 
except  a few  words,  could  they  have  understood  the  service  this 
morning.  1 heard  them  read,  however,  and  (by  choosing  such 
chapters  of  the  New  Testament  as  I was  best  acquainted  with) 
was  able  to  follow  them,  and  to  show  them  that  I did  do  so.  They 
read  extremely  well,  distinctly,  slowly,  and  as  if  they  understood 
what  they  read  ; they  afterwards  answered  several  of  the  questions 
in  Watts’s  catechism,  and  repeated  the  Creed,  Lord’s  Prayer, 
and  the  Ten  Commandments,  giving  a sort  of  exposition  of 
each.  I was  extremely  pleased  and  surprised  at  all  I witnessed 
here. 

On  my  return  to  the  pinnace,  I found  that  the  Corries  were 
not  visible  even  from  our  mast-head,  so  that  they  plainly  could 
not  arrive  before  night,  while  two  oflicers,  who  had  just  come  in 
a budgerow  from  Ghazeepoor,  said  that  if  the  wind  failed  ever  so 


VARIETIES  OF  COMPLEXION. 


227 


little,  I should  not  get  there  in  one  day.  I therefore  wrote  a few 
lines  to  Mr.  Corrie,  explaining  my  plans,  and  advising  him  to  stay 
over  Sunday  at  Buxar,  and  set  olf,  finding  as  an  additional  reason 
for  quitting  my  present  situation,  that  the  water  in  the  river  had 
fallen  nearly  a cubit  in  the  course  of  the  night,  and  that  if  I re- 
mained, I might  have  some  difficulty  in  getting  the  pinnace  out  of 
the  colly.  1 had  the  usual  salute  from  the  garrison,  and  left 
Buxar  after  a day  of  great  and  unexpected  interest. 

The  attendants  in  the  school  were  of  all  ages,  several  young 
j3oys,  some  little  girls,  but  the  majority  full  grown  women.  The 
boys  were  in  the  usual  attire  of  other  Indian  children  ; the  women 
and  girls  were  decently  wrapped  up  in  their  long  shawls,  bare- 
footed, with  the  anklets  and  armlets  usual  with  their  country- 
women, but  with  no  marks  of  caste  on  their  foreheads.  I heartily 
wished  for  some  of  the  enemies  of  missions  to  see,  in  this  small 
and  detached  instance,  the  good,  which,  in  a quiet  and  unpretend- 
ing way,  is  really  doing  among  these  poor  people.  Curreem 
Museeh  was,  I believe,  a havildar  in  the  Company’s  army,  and 
his  sword  and  sash  were  still  hung  up,  with  a not  unpleasing  vanity, 
over  the  desk  where  he  now  presided  as  catechist ; he  is  a very 
decent  looking,  middle  aged  man,  his  white  cotton  clothes  and 
turban  extremely  clean,  and  his  colour  like  that  of  most  of  the 
inhabitants  of  these  provinces,  not  very  much  darker  than  the 
natives  of  the  south  of  Europe.  1 am  indeed  often  surprised  to 
observe  the  difference  between  my  dandees,  (who  are  nearly  the 
colour  of  a black  tea-pot,)  and  the  generality  of  the  peasants 
whom  we  meet  with  on  the  shore  or  in  the  bazars.  The  differ- 
ence of  climate  will  not  account  for  this,  for  I have  never  in  Ben- 
gal felt  the  sun  more  powerful  than  it  has  been  within  these  last 
few  days  in  Bahar ; nor,  though  the  people  here  wear  rather  more 
clothing  than  the  lowest  ranks  of  Bengalees,  does  this  amount  to 
more  than  a mantle  over  the  head  and  shoulders,  which  after  all 
they  put  on  during  the  rain  and  breeze,  not  in  the  sun.  I cannot 
' help  believing  that  as  the  language  is  different,  so  their  race  is 
also,  and  that  in  Bengal  are  some  remains  of  an  earlier,  perhaps 
a Negro  stock,  such  as  are  now  found  in  the  Andamian  islands, 
but  who  have  been  subdued  by,  and  amalgamated  with,  the  same 
northern  conquerors  who  drove  the  Puharrees  to  their  mountains. 


228 


CHAPTER  XII. 

BUXAR  TO  BENARES. 

CARAMNASA GHAZEEPOOR LORD  CORNWALLIs’s  MONUMENT — -PALACE 

SALUBRITY ROSE  FIELDS SUTTEES LEPERS DAK  JOURNEY— 

SEIDPOOR BENARES CASE  OF  NATIVE  CHRISTIANS ^CONFIRMATION 

MISSION  SCHOOL DESCRIPTION  OF  BENARES NATIVE  HOUSES PA- 
GODAS  VISHVAY  ESA OBSERVATORY JAIN  TEMPLE VIDALAYA 

HINDOO  ASTRONOMY STREET  PREACHING AMRUT  ROW VISIT  FROM 

THE  RAJA. 

A LITTLE  to  the  south-west  of  Buxar  we  passed  a large  town 
with  some  neat  mosques  and  the  remains  of  a fort,  named  Chow- 
sar,  and  a little  further  the  mouth  of  a considerable  river,  the 
Garamnasa,  whose  singular  properties  1 have  before  mentioned. 
It  is  for  this  river,  which  crosses  the  great  road  from  Calcutta  to 
Benares,  that  the  rope-bridge  exhibited  by  Mr.  Shakespear  at  Cos- 
sipoor  was  intended  by  the  Baboo  Ramchunder  Narain.  At  this 
place  it  is  the  boundary  between  the  provinces  of  Bahar  and  Alla- 
habad, and  was,  till  the  administration  of  Warren  Hastings,  who 
pushed  on  the  border  to  Benares,  the  extreme  limit  of  the  Com- 
pany’s territories.  How  vastly  have  they  since  been  extended  ! 
The  river  is  here  much  contracted  in  width,  as  might  be  expected 
after  getting  above  the  junction  of  so  many  great  tributary  streams, 
and  the  banks  are  generally  high  and  abrupt.  The  country  has 
but  little  timber  in  comparison  with  Bengal,  but  would  not  be 
thought  deficient  in  this  respect  in  most  parts  of  Europe.  The 
trees  are  round-topped,  few  palms  being  seen,  and  the  cultivation 
wheat,  oats,  and  pulse,  intermixed  with  grass  leys,  covered  with 
vast  herds  of  cattle. 

In  passing  along  a colly,  which  we  entered  a little  after  we  left 
the  Caramnasa,  1 heard  some  disputing  on  deck,  and  suddenly 
found  the  boat  going  over  to  the  other  side  of  the  stream.  On 
inquiry,  the  venitians  being  closed  on  the  side  where  the  difficulty 
was,  I was  told  that  some  European  serjeants,  with  some  Com- 
pany’s boats  under  their  charge,  who  had  put  up  for  the  night  on 
that  shore,  had  sent  a message  warning  us  off,  lest  our  tow-line 
should  occasion  them  some  little  trouble.  I was  angry,  and  asked 
the  Serang  why  he  attended  to  such  an  impertinent  order,  and 
why  he  obeyed  it  without  consulting  me.  He  answered  that  one 
side  of  the  stream  was  really  as  good  as  the  other,  and  that  as  he 


COTTON-GRASS— GHAZEEPOOR.  039 

expected  soon  to  lugana  for  the  night,  he  had  no  desire  to  be  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  such  people.  However  it  is,  I fear,  a spe- 
cimen of  the  way  in  which  these  gentry  order  about  the  natives, 
and  even  the  European  traders ; not  seeing  any  uniforms  or  white 
people  in  the  boat,  they  perhaps  took  it  for  one  of  the  floating 
shops  which  1 have  mentioned. 

We  brought  to  about  a quarter  of  an  hour  afterwards,  by  a vast 
grass  field,  divided  into  butts  by  rows  of  the  tall  and  beautiful 
cotton-grass.  It  is  cultivated  for  the  “ Choppers”  thatched  roofs, 
of  bungalows,  and  also  for  ropes,  and  even  for  a coarse  but  strong 
kind  of  canvass.  It  evidently  was  regarded  as  a valuable  crop, 
from  the  exactness  with  which  it  was  planted.  As  no  cows  would 
eat  it  except  in  extreme  hunger,  it  is  safe  from  their  attacks,  and 
the  intervening  stripes  of  grass  afford  a rich  and  noble  pasture.  I 
never  saw,  I think,  finer  land.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  all  a 
light,  marly  loam,  like  garden-mould,  dry,  sound,  and  friable,  with- 
out any  intermixture  of  stones  or  cold  clay,  and  with  very  little 
sand.  Abdullah,  who  is  a warm  patriot,  so  far  as  his  admiration 
of  the  climate,  soil,  and  productions  of  Hindostan  goes,  and  who 
is  much  pleased  to  observe  the  interest  which  I take  in  these 
matters,  said,  “ Ah,  my  lord,  why  not  get  leave  to  buy  land  in 
this  good  place  and  good  climate,  my  lady  and  children  always 
have  good  health  here,  settle  it  on  young  lady,  native  of  country, 
and  call  it  Harrietpoor.”  1 laughed,  and  told  him  the  reasons  of 
the  law  which  hindered  the  English  from  buying  land  in  India ; 
he  owned  that  it  was  a very  good  law  to  prevent  the  English  col- 
lectors and  magistrates  from  being  tempted  to  extort  lands,  as  the 
Mussulmans  had  done,  from  the  people  by  false  accusations,  and 
added,  that  it  was  wonderful  how  the  English  parliament  took 
notice  of  every  thing,  and  every  body. 

August  28. — It  is  quite  extraordinary  to  see  how  much  and 
how  fast  the  waters  are  subsiding;  surely  the  rains  have  not  ceased 
thus  early!  If  they  have  it  would  augur  ill  for  my  getting  to 
Cawnpoor  by  water,  and  (what  I am  far  more  afraid  of)  would 
make  the  neighbourhood  of  Calcutta  very  unhealthy.  I have 
been  visited  within  these  few  days  by  several  large  wasps  or  hor- 
nets, of  greater  bulk  and  duller  colours  than  those  of  England, 
but  not  so  numerous  as  to  be  troublesome. 

Ghazeepoor,  w^here  I arrived  this  day,  is  another  large  town 
or  city,  and  from  the  river  very  striking,  though,  like  all  the 
Indian  cities  I have  passed,  its  noblest  buildings  on  approaching 
them  turn  out  to  be  ruins.  The  river,  though  narrower  than  I 
have  been  lately  accustomed  to  see  it,  is  still  as  wide  as  the 
Hooghly  at  Cossipoor.  At  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  town  is  a 
very  handsome  though  ruined  palace,  built  by  the  Nawab  Cossim 
Ali  Khan,  the  most  airy  and  best  contrived,  so  far  as  can  be 


230 


LORD  CORNWALLIS’S  MONUMENT. 


perceived  from  its  outward  appearance,  of  any  of  the  eastern  build- 
ings which  I have  seen.  Its  verandahs  are  really  magnificent,  but 
its  desolation  is  so  recent,  that  it  is  very  far  from  being  a pleasing 
object  on  approaching  near  enough  to  perceive  its  decay.  It 
might  still  at  no  great  expense  be  made  one  of  the  handsomest 
and  best  situated  houses  in  India.  At  the  other  extremity  of  the 
town,  and  separated  from  it  by  gardens  and  scattered  cottages, 
are  the  houses  of  the  civil  servants  of  the  Company,  mostly  with 
ground-floors  only,  hut  large  and  handsome;  and  beyond  these  is 
the  military  cantonment,  ugly  low  bungalows,  with  sloping  roofs 
of  red  tile,  but  deriving  some  advantage  from  the  trees  with  which 
(very  different  from  the  stately  but  naked  barracks  of  Dinapoor) 
they  are  surrounded  and  intermingled.  The  most  conspicuous 
object  among  them  is  the  monument  to  Lord  Cornwallis,  who 
died  here  on  his  way  up  the  country.  It  has  a white  dome  like 
a pepper-pot,  but  when  the  young  trees,  which  are  growing  up 
round  it,  shall  have  got  a little  higher,  it  will  not  look  ill  from  the 
river. 

Almost  immediately  as  my  vessel  came  to  shore,  Mr.  Melville, 
who  had  seen  it  in  its  approach,  came  on  board  to  say  that  he 
had  given  up  his  own  house,  and  was  staying  with  Mr.  C.  Bayley, 
who  hoped  for  my  company  also.  In  their  agreeable  society  1 
passed  the  three  days  which  I remained  at  Ghazeepoor,  and 
from  them  obtained  so  much  valuable  information  that  I cannot 
help  regretting  I had  not  time,  and  have  not  memory  to  put 
down  half  of  it.  Some  difficulties  were  felt  about  a proper  place 
for  divine  service  next  day,  the  place  (an  old  riding-house)  which 
had  been  used  as  a church  before  the  station  lost  its  chaplain, 
being  in  so  ruinous  a state  that  the  quarter-master  had  reported 
it  sometime  since  to  Government  as  unsafe  for  any  persons  to 
assemble  in.  A Mr.  Watson,  a tradesman  in  the  place,  however, 
offered  his  long  room,  generally  used  for  auctions,  and  sometimes 
for  assemblies,  which,  now  that  the  European  regiment  was 
absent,  and  the  probable  congregation  less  numerous  than  it 
otherwise  would  have  been,  answered  the  purpose  extremely 
well,  being  large,  airy,  and  furnished  both  with  seats  and  punkahs. 

During  our  drive  this  evening  1 had  a nearer  view  of  Lord 
Cornwallis’s  monument,  which  certainly  does  not  improve  on 
close  inspection  ; it  has  been  evidently  a very  costly  building  ; its 
materials  are  excellent,  being  some  of  the  finest  free-stone  1 ever 
saw,  and  it  is  an  imitation  of  the  celebrated  Sybill’s  temple,  of 
large  proportions,  solid  masonry,  and  raised  above  the  ground  on 
a lofty  and  striking  basement.  But  its  pillars,  instead  of  beautiful 
Corinthian  well-fluted,  are  of  the  meanest  Doric.  They  are 
quite  too  slender  for  their  height,  and  for  the  heavy  entablature 
and  cornice  which  rest  on  them.  The  dome,  instead  of  springing 


LORD  CORNWALLIS’S  MONUMENT. 


231 


from  nearly  the  same  level  with  the  roof  of  the  surrounding 
portico,  is  raised  ten  feet  higher  on  a most  ugly  and  unmeaning 
attic  story,  and  the  windows  (which  are  quite  useless)  are  the 
most  extraordinary  embrasures  (for  they  resemble  nothing  else) 
that  I ever  saw,  out  of  a fortress.  Above  all,  the  building  is 
utterly  unmeaning,  it  is  neither  a temple  nor  a tomb,  neither  has 
altar,  statue,  or  inscription.  It  is,  in  fact,  a “ folly”  of  the  same 
sort,  but  far  more  ambitious  and  costly,  than  that  which  is  built 
at  Barrackpoor,  and  it  is  vexatious  to  think  that  a very  handsome 
church  might  have  been  built,  and  a handsome  marble  monument 
to  Lord  Cornwallis  placed  in  its  interior,  for  little  more  money 
than  has  been  employed  on  a thing,  which,  if  any  foreigner  saw 
it,  (an  event  luckily  not  very  probable,)  would  afford  subject  for 
mockery  to  all  who  read  his  travels,  at  the  expense  of  Anglo^ 
Indian  ideas  of  architecture.  Ugly  as  it  is,  however,  by  itself,  it 
may  yet  be  made  a good  use  of,  by  making  it  serve  the  purpose 
of  a detached  “ torre  campanile”  to  the  new  church  which  is 
required  for  the  station  ; to  this  last  it  would  save  the  necessity 
of  a steeple  or  cupola,  and  would  much  lessen  the  expense  of 
the  building,  but  the  times  are,  I fear,  unpropitious  for  any 
grants  of  this  nature  from  the  Indian  Government.  Yet  the 
wants  of  this  station  are  so  urgent,  for  when  they  have  European 
soldiers  here  again  they  will  have  no  building  of  any  kind  to 
receive  them  for  worship,  and  the  representation  which  the 
principal  civil  and  military  servants  have  made  to  me,  is  so  strong, 
that  it  is  absolutely  my  duty  to  urge  the  case,  and  I will  certainly 
do  so. 

Sunday^  August  29. — Mr.  Corrie  (who  from  illness  had  been 
unable  to  undertake  the  whole  duty  at  Buxar,  and  had  arrived 
here  yesterday)  read  prayers,  and  I preached  and  administered 
the  sacrament  this  morning.,  to  a small  but  very  attentive  con- 
gregation, almost  exclusively  of  the  higher  class.  Afterwards  I 
examined  some  children  from  the  regimental  school,  which  seems 
well  managed.  Though  the  fathers  are  absent,  the  wives  and 
children  of  the  38th  Regiment  remain  here,  and  Government  is 
also  forming  a considerable  force  of  sepoys. 

August  30. — In  the  evening  I drove  with  Captain  Carter,  the 
quarter-master,  to  fix  on  the  best  spot  for  a church,  and  found 
none  so  good  as  that  which  I have  already  mentioned.  The  pre- 
sent, or  rather  the  late  church,  is  a very  large  building,  thatched 
like  a barn,  with  a wide  span  which  has  forced  the  side-walls 
out  of  the  perpendicular ; indeed,  the  w^hole  is  in  a very  forlorn 
condition,  and  I am  surprised  it  has  stood  through  these  rains. 

August  31. — This  morning  early  Mr.  Melville  took  me  to  see 
the  prison,  which,  like  all  the  Company's  gaols  which  I have 
seen,  is  very  clean,  airy,  and  apparently  well  managed, — and  the 


232 


PALACE. 


old  palace,  now  used  as  a custom-house,  which  I had  so  much 
admired  coming  up  the  river.  The  town,  through  which  we 
passed,  has  no  large  houses  except  one,  the  property  of  a wealthy 
Mussulman,  which  is  extremely  like  some  of  the  old  houses  in 
Scotland,  as  represented  in  prints  and  described  by  the  author  of 
Waverly.  Like  all  other  native  buildings  it  looks  dingy  and 
neglected,  but  appears  in  good  substantial  repair,  and  is  a striking 
object,  more  so,  perhaps,  than  most  of  the  Corinthian  verandahs 
of  Calcutta.  The  bazars,  through  which  we  drove,  are  neat ; 
and  one  of  the  streets  so  wide  that  one  might  have  supposed 
oneself  in  an  English  country  town.  There  are  the  remains  of 
an  old  castle  here,  now  reduced  to  little  more  than  a high  green 
mound,  scattered  with  ruins,  and  overhung  with  some  fine  trees. 
But  the  palace  is,  indeed,  a very  handsome  building.  It  is  ap- 
proached from  the  land  through  a fine  gateway,  which,  though 
differing  in  a few  particulars  from  the  English  gothic,  certainly 
belongs  to  the  same  style  of  architecture,  and  excels  the  cor- 
responding structures  of  Dacca,  in  being,  instead  of  brick,  of 
excellent  stone.  It  is  in  good  repair,  and  has  still  its  massive  teak 
folding-doors  clenched  with  iron  studs,  and  with  the  low-browed 
wicket  in  the  middle,  like  an  English  castle  or  college. 

The  most  striking  differences  between  the  English  and  Asiatic 
gothic,  lie  in  the  broad  projecting  stone  cornices  which  adorn 
the  latter,  and  to  which  I recollect  no  counterpart  in  Europe, 
though  something  approaching  to  them  may  be  found  in  the  heavy 
but  picturesque  eaves  of  the  Florentine  palaces,  and  though  they 
are  pretty  closely  imitated  in  wood,  in  some  of  our  old  English 
black-and-white  houses.  In  their  gate-ways,  likewise,  and  most 
other  of  their  buildings,  they  avoid  all  those  flanking  projections, 
round  or  octagonal  turrets  and  stair-cases,  which  our  ancient 
English  architects  were  so  fond  of;,  and,  instead  of  these,  cut  off 
the  corners  of  their  buildings  into  an  octagonal  form.  There  is 
good  sense  in  both  these  variations.  In  a climate  where  every 
breeze  is  precious,  those  projections,  which  are  useful  shelters  in 
England,  would  be  only  nuisances  ; and  the  depth  of  shadow  and 
architectural  effect  of  which  they  thus  deprive  themselves,  is 
supplied  in  a great  degree  by  the  projection  of  their  kiosks  and 
cornices,  which  are,  at  the  same  time,  extremely  convenient  in 
a country  so  hot,  and  at  certain  seasons  so  rainy.  There  are  two 
or  three  courts  within  the  palace,  surrounded  by  ruinous  build- 
ings, with  an  appearance,  at  first  sight,  of  meanness,  but  offering, 
in  detail,  many  beautiful  specimens  of  architecture.  The  arches 
here,  however,  are  few  of  them  gothic,  being  mostly  of  that  kind 
which  is  generally  called  Moorish,  specimens  of  which  may  be 
seen,  if  I recollect  right,  in  Murphy’s  prints  of  the  Alhambra. 
The  columns  are  slender  and  octagonal.  The  arches  semi-circular, 


GHAZEEPOOR. 


233 


but  indented,  and  the  bases  of  the  columns  are  ornamented 
with  flowers  and  leaves  which  seem  interposed  between  them 
and  their  plinths.  The  tops  of  the  windows  are  like  those  of  the 
arcades,  but  generally  enclosed  in  a square  tablet  like  what  we 
see  in  Tudor  gothic, — the  doors  the  same.  The  banqueting-house 
is  a very  striking  and  beautiful  building  in  the  form  of  a cross, 
open  every  way,  and  supported  by  a multitude  of  pillars  and 
arches,  erected  on  an  under-story  of  an  octagonal  form.  Its 
south-east  side  abuts  immediately  on  a terrace  rising  from  the 
river  ; the  four  projections  of  the  cross  seem  calculated  to  answer 
the  double  purpose  of  shading  the  octagonal  centre,  and  giving 
room  for  the  attendants,  music,  &c.,  and  the  double  line  round 
the  centre  is  a deep  trench,  which  used  to  be  filled,  we  are  told, 
with  rose-water,  when  the  Nawab  and  his  friends  were  feasting 
in  the  middle,  which  still  shows  the  remains  of  a beautiful  blue, 
red,  and  white  Mosaic  pavement.  It  is  now  used  as  a ware- 
house to  the  custom-house,  and  the  men  with  swords  and  shields 
who  yet  mount  guard  there,  are  police  peons.  The  building, 
however,  is  in  a rapid  state  of  decay,  though  it  still  might  be 
restored,  and,  as  a curious  and  beautiful  object,  is  really  worth 
restoring. 

I set  off  for  Benares  after  breakfast,  but  made  little  progress, 
both  the  stream,  and,  by  an  unfortunate  chance,  the  wind,  being 
unfavourable.  Ghazeepoor  is  celebrated  throughout  India  for 
the  wholesomeness  of  its  air,  and  the  beauty  and  extent  of  its 
rose-gardens.  Perhaps  these  in  a good  degree  arise  from  the  same 
cause, — the  elevated  level  on  which  it  stands,  and  the  dryness  of 
its  soil,  which  never  retains  the  moisture,  and  after  the  heaviest 
showers  is  in  a very  few  hours  fit  to  walk  on  with  comfort.  That 
this  must  contribute  to  health  is  evident ; and  1 suppose,  from  all 
which  I have  observed,  that  it  must  be  favourable  to  the  growth 
of  flowers.  It  is  also  another  auspicious  circumstance  in  the  situ- 
ation of  the  city  and  cantonment,  that  it  has  a noble  reach  of  the 
Tiver  to  the  south-east,  from  which  quarter  the  hot  winds  gene- 
rally blow.  Be  this  as  it  may,  the  English  regiments  removed 
hither  from  the  other  stations,  have  always  found  their  number  of 
deaths  diminish  from  the  Indian  to  the  European  ratio ; and  the 
apparent  health  of  the  inhabitants,  both  English  and  native,  really 
struck  me  as  doing  justice  to  the  favourable  reports  of  the  air. 
The  country  round  is  as  flat  as  India  generally  is,  and  the  roses 
were  not  in  bloom.  There  was,  however,  a very  brilliant  display 
of  flowers  and  flowering  shrubs  of  other  kinds  in  the  different 
lanes  and  hedges,  as  well  as  in  the  pleasure-grounds  of  the  Euro- 
pean residents. 

The  rose-fields,  which  occupy  many  hundred  acres  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, are  described  as,  at  the  proper  season,  extremely 

VoL.  I. — 30 


234 


ROSE-FIELDS. 


beautiful.  They  are  cultivated  for  distillation,  and  for  making 
“ attar.”  Rose-water  is  both  good  and  cheap  here.  The  price 
of  a seer,  or  weight  of  2lbs.  (a  large  quart,)  of  the  best,  being 
eight  anas,  or  a shilling.  The  attar  is  obtained  after  the  rose- 
water is  made,  by  setting  it  out  during  the  night,  and  till  sunrise 
in  the  morning,  in  large  open  vessels  exposed  to  the  air,  and  then 
skimming  off  the  essential  oil  which  floats  at  the  top.  The  rose- 
water which  is  thus  skimmed  bears  a lower  price  than  that  which 
is  warranted  with  its  cream  entire,  but  Mr.  Bayley  said  there  is 
very  little  perceptible  difference.  To  produce  one  rupee’s  weight 
of  attar,  two  hundred  thousand  well-grown  roses  are  required. 
The  price,  even  on  the  spot,  is  extravagant,  a rupee’s  weight 
being  sold  in  the  bazar  (where  it  is  often  adulterated  with  sandal- 
wood,) for  80  S.  R.,  and  at  the  English  warehouse,  where  it  is 
warranted  genuine,  at  100  S.  R.  or  £10!  Mr.  Melville,  who 
made  some  for  himself  one  year,  said  he  calculated  that  the  rent 
of  the  land  and  price  of  utensils  really  cost  him  at  the  rate  of  five 
pounds  for  the  above  trifling  quantity,  without  reckoning  risk, 
labour  of  servants,  &c. 

The  whole  district  of  Ghazeepoor  is  fertile  in  corn,  pasture, 
and  fruit-trees.  The  population  is  great,  and  the  mosques,  and 
Mussulmans  in  the  shops  and  streets,  are  so  numerous  ,and  there 
are  so  few  pagodas  of  any  importance  visible,  that  I thought  I had 
bidden  adieu  for  the  present  to  the  followers  of  Brahma.  Mr. 
Melville,  however,  assured  me,  to  my  surprise,  that  it  was  in  the 
large  towns  only  that  the  Mussulmans  were  numerous,  and  that, 
taking  the  whole  province  together,  they  were  barely  an  eleventh 
part  of  the  population,  among  the  remainder  of  whom  Hindooism 
existed  in  all  its  strength  and  bigotry.  Suttees  are  more  abundant 
here  than  even  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Calcutta,  but  chiefly 
confined  to  the  lower  ranks.  The  last  yearly  return  amounted 
to  above  forty,  and  there  were  several  of  which  no  account  was 
given  to  the  magistrate.  It  has  been,  indeed,  a singular  omission 
on  the  part  of  Government,  that,  though  an  ordinance  has  been 
passed,  commanding  all  persons  celebrating  a suttee  to  send  in 
notice  of  their  intention  to  the  nearest  police  officer,  no  punish- 
ment has  been  prescribed  for  the  neglect  of  this  order,  nor  has  it 
ever  been  embodied  in  the  standing  regulations,  so  as  to  make  it 
law,  or  authorize  a magistrate  to  commit  to  prison  for  contempt 
of  it.  If  Government  mean  their  orders  respecting  the  publicity 
of  suttees  to  be  obeyed,  they  must  give  it  the  proper  efficacy ; 
while,  if  suttees  are  not  under  the  inspection  of  the  police,  the 
most  horrible  murders  may  be  committed  under  their  name. 
This  struck  me  very  forcibly  from  two  facts  which  were  inci- 
dentally told  me.  It  is  not  necessary,  it  seems,  for  the  widow 
who  offers  herself,  to  burn  actually  with  the  body  of  her  husband. 


SUTTEES. 


235 


His  garments,  his  slippers,  his  walking-staff,— any  thing  which 
has  at  any  time  been  in  his  possession,  will  do  as  well.  Brahmin 
widows,  indeed,  are,  by  the  Shaster,  not  allowed  this  privilege, 
but  must  burn  with  the  body  or  not  at  all.  This,  however,  is 
unknown  or  disregarded  in  the  district  of  Ghazeepoor,  and  most 
other  regions  of  India.  But  the  person  of  whom  I was  told  was 
no  brahmin ; he  was  a labourer,  who  had  left  his  family  in  a time 
of  scarcity,  and  had  gone  to  live  (as  was  believed)  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Moorshedabad,  whence  he  had  once,  in  the  course 
of  several  years,  sent  his  wife  a small  sum  of  money  from  his 
savings,  by  a friend  who  was  going  up  the  country.  Such  remit- 
tances, to  the  honour  of  the  labouring  class  in  India,  are  usual,  and 
equally  to  their  honour,  when  entrusted  to  any  one  to  convey,  are 
very  seldom  embezzled.  Some  years  after,  however,  when  the 
son  of  the  absentee  was  grown  up,  he  returned  one  day  from  a 
fair  at  a little  distance,  saying  he  had  heard  bad  news,  and  that  a 
man  unknown  had  told  him  his  father  was  dead.  On  this  authority 
the  widow  determined  to  burn  herself,  and  it  was  judged  sufficient 
that  an  old  garment  of  the  supposed  dead  man  should  be  burned 
with  her.  Now,  it  is  very  plain  how  easily,  if  the  son  wanted  to  get 
rid  of  his  mother,  he  might  have  brought  home  such  a story  to 
induce  her  to  burn ; and  it  is  also  very  plain,  that  whether  she  was 
willing  or  no,  he  might  carry  her  to  the  stake,  and  (if  the  police 
are  to  take  no  cognizance  of  the  matter)  might  burn  her  under 
pretence  of  a suttee.  How  little  the  interference  of  neighbours 
is  to  be  apprehended  in  such  cases,  and  how  little  a female  death 
is  cared  for,  may  appear  by  another  circumstance  which  occurred 
a short  time  ago  at  a small  distance  from  the  city  of  Ghazeepoor, 
when,  in  consequence  of  a dispute  which  had  taken  place  between 
two  small  freeholders  about  some  land,  one  of  the  contending 
parties,  an  old  man  of  seventy  and  upwards,  brought  his  wife  of 
the  same  age  to  the  field  in  question,  forced  her,  with  the  assistance 
of  their  children  and  relations,  into  a little  straw  hut  built  for  the 
purpose,  and  burned  her  and  the  hut  together,  in  order  that  her 
death  might  bring  a curse  on  the  soil,  and  her  spirit  haunt  it  after 
death,  so  that  his  successful  antagonist  should  never  derive  any 
advantage  from  it.  On  some  horror  and  surprise  being  expressed 
by  the  gentleman  who  told  me  this  case,  one  of  the  officers  of  his 
court,  the  same,  indeed,  wffio  had  reported  it  to  him,  not  as  a hor- 
rible occurrence,  but  as  a proof  how  spiteful  the  parties  had  been 
against  each  other,  said  very  coolly,  ‘‘  why  not? — she  was  a very 
old  woman, — what  use  w^as  she?”  The  old  murderer  was  in 
prison,  but  my  friend  said  he  had  no  doubt  that  his  interference 
in  such  a case  between  man  and  wife  was  regarded  as  singularly 
vexatious  and  oppressive ; and  he  added,  “ The  truth  is,  so  very 
little  value  do  these  people  set  on  their  own  lives,  that  we  cannot 


236 


CHARACTER  OF  HINDOOS. 


wonder  at  their  caring  little  for  the  life  of  another.  The  cases  of 
suicide  which  come  before  me,  double  those  of  suttees  ; men,  and 
still  more,  women,  throw  themselves  down  wells,  or  drink  poison, 
for  apparently  the  slightest  reasons,  generall}'  out  of  some  quarrel, 
and  in  order  that  their  blood  may  lie  at  their  enemy’s  door;  and 
unless  the  criminal  in  question  had  had  an  old  woman  at  hand 
and  in  his  power,  he  was  likely  enough  to  have  burned  himself.” 
Human  sacrifices,  as  of  children,  are  never  heard  of  now  in  these 
provinces,  but  it  still  sometimes  happens  that  a leper  is  burnt  or 
buried  alive ; and  as  these  murders  are  somewhat  blended  also 
with  religious  feeling,  a leper  being  supposed  to  be  accursed  of 
the  gods,  the  Sudder  Duwannee,  acting  on  the  same  principle, 
discourages,  as  I am  told,  all  interference  with  the  practice.  The 
best  way,  indeed,  to  abolish  it,  would  be  to  establish  lazar-houses, 
where  these  poor  wretches  should  be  maintained,  and,  if  possible, 
cured,  or  at  all  events  kept  separate  from  the  rest  of  the  people, 
a policy  by  which,  more  than  any  thing  else,  this  hideous  disease 
has  been  extirpated  in  Europe. 

All  these  stories  have  made  a very  painful  impression  on  me. 
If  I live  to  return  to  Calcutta,  it  is  possible  that  by  conversation 
with  such  of  my  friends  as  have  influence,  and  by  the  help  of 
what  additional  knowledge  I may  have  acquired  during  this  tour, 
I may  obtain  a remedy  for  some  of  them.  And  it  is  in  order  that 
this  anxiety  may  not  pass  away,  but  that  I may  really  do  some 
little  for  the  people  among  whom  my  lot  is  thrown,  that  I have 
put  down  more  fully  the  facts  which  have  come  to  my  knowledge. 
I have  on  a former  occasion  noticed  the  opinions  of  most  public 
men  in  India,  on  the  important  question  of  putting  down  suttees 
by  authority.  Whether  this  is  attempted  or  not,  it  seems  at 
least  highly  necessary  that  the  regulations  should  be  enforced 
which  the  Indian  Government  itself  had  declared  desirable,  and 
that  those  instances  which  are  really  murder,  on  Hindoo  as  well 
as  Christian  principles,  should  not  escape  unpunished.  Of  the 
natural  disposition  of  the  Hindoo,  I still  see  abundant  reason  to 
think  highly ; and  Mr.  Bayley  and  Mr.  Melville  both  agreed 
with  me,  that  they  are  constitutionally  kind-hearted,  industrious, 
sober,  and  peaceable,  at  the  same  time  that  they  show  themselves, 
on  proper  occasions,  a manly  and  courageous  people.  All  that 
is  bad  about  them  appears  to  arise  either  from  the  defective 
motives  which  their  religion  supplies,  or  the  wicked  actions  which 
it  records  of  their  gods,  or  encourages  in  their  own  practice. 
Yet  it  is  strange  to  see,  though  this  is  pretty  generally  allowed, 
how  slow  men  are  to  admit  the  advantage  or  necessity  of  propa- 
gating Christianity  among  them.  Crimes  unconnected  with 
religion  are  not  common  in  Ghazeepoor.  There  are  affrays, 
but  such  as  arise  out  of  disputes  between  Mohammedan  and 


HINDOO  LAW  OFFICERS. 


237 


Hindoo  processions  at  the  time  of  the  Mohurrun,  in  which  blood 
is  sometimes  drawn.  The  police  is  numerous  and  effective,  and 
the  Thannadars,  &c.  though  they  had  been  here  also,  in  the  first 
instance,  forgotten  in  the  perpetual  settlement,  have  been  better 
provided  for  since,  than  those  of  Bahar;  but  the  tenants  on  the 
small  and  divided  estates  in  these  provinces,  are  worse  off  than 
those  on  the  larger  properties  in  Bahar.  Estates  here  are  seldom 
large,  and  the  holdings  very  minute. 

The  language  spoken  by  the  common  people  is  Hindoostanee, 
of  a very  corrupt  kind.  The  good  “ Oordoo”  is  chiefly  confined 
to  the  army  and  courts  of  justice.  When  a person  under  exami- 
nation once  answered  in  it  with  unusual  fluency  and  propriety, 
Mr.  Melville’s  native  chief  officer  said,  with  a sagacious  nod, 
“ That  fellow  talks  good  Oordoo  ! He  has  been  in  prison  before 
to-day!”  All  legal  writings,  records,  &c.  are  in  Persian,  a rule 
which  Mr.  Melville  thinks  good.  Persian  holding  in  India  the 
place  of  Latin  in  Europe,  in  consequence  of  this  regulation,  all 
the  higher  officers  of  the  courts  are  educated  persons.  Persian 
is,  as  a language,  so  much  superior  in  clearness  and  brevity  to 
Hindoostanee,  that  business  is  greatly  facilitated  by  employing  it; 
and  since  even  Oordoo  itself  is  unintelligible  to  a great  part  of 
the  Hindoos,  there  is  no  particular  reason  for  preferring  it  to  the 
more  polished  language.  The  honesty  of  the  Hindoo  law-officers 
is  spoken  very  ill  of ; they  seem  to  become  worse  the  nearer 
they  approach  the  seat  of  justice.  The  reason  perhaps  is  not 
hard  to  discover ; they  are  in  situations  where  they  may  do  a 
great  deal  of  mischief:  their  regular  salaries  are  wretchedly 
small,  a part  even  of  these  arise  from  fees  often  oppressive  and 
difficult  to  obtain,  and  they  are  so  much  exposed  to  getting  a 
bad  name  even  while  they  exact  merely  what  is  their  due,  that 
they  become  careless  of  reputation,  and  anxious  by  all  underhand 
means  to  swell  their  profits.  Much  evil  arises  in  India  from  the 
insufficient  manner  in  which  the  subaltern  native  servants  of 
Government  are  paid.  In  the  case  of  the  town  duties,  a toll- 
keeper,  through  whose  hands  the  dues  of  half  a district  pass,  re- 
ceives as  his  own  share  three  rupees  a month  ! For  this  he  has  to 
keep  a regular  account,  to  stop  every  boat  or  hackery,  to  search 
them  in  order  to  prevent  smuggling,  and  to  bear  the  abuse  and 
curses  of  all  his  neighbours.  What  better  could  be  expected 
from  such  a man,  but  that  he  should  cheat  both  sides,  withholding 
from  his  employers  a large  portion  of  the  sums  which  he  receives, 
and  extracting  from  the  poor  country-people,  in  the  shape  of 
presents,  surcharges,  expedition  and  connivance-money,  a far 
greater  sum  than  he  is  legally  entitled  to  demand  ? 

September  1. — We  advanced  this  day  across  the  river  by  the 
aid  of  a favourable  wind,  which  just  lasted  long  enough  to  induce 


238 


CHUCKEEPOOR. 


me  to  decline  a very  kind  invitation  sent  by  Mr.  Bayley  and  Mr. 
Melville  to  return  to  them  (being  still  within  sight  of  Ghazeepoor) 
and  proceed  by  Dak  on  Friday  afternoon.  The  wind,  however, 
was  of  considerable  service,  since  the  place  where  we  now  w^ere, 
Zermineeh,  is  famous  for  the  time  w^hich  boats  are  often  detained 
there.  After  crossing  the  river,  we  proceeded  a very  little  way 
against  the  stream. 

September  % — In  addition  to  the  stream,  we  had  now  the  wind 
against  us,  but  notwithstanding  were  dragged  on  with  much 
difficulty  six  or  eight  miles,  as  far  as  a village  named  Chuckee- 
poor,  where  further  progress,  without  great  additional  help,  be- 
came impossible,  the  banks  being  high,  steep,  and  crumbling,  and 
the  river  perilously  rapid.  There  were  at  least  twenty  vessels 
of  different  sizes  already  set  fast  and  moored,  a little  a-head  of  us, 
waiting  for  a westerly  wind.  I therefore  sent  to  the  Jemautdar 
of  Chuckeepoor  to  desire  him  to  hire  fifty  men  for  the  next  day, 
to  pull  the  boats  past  the  difficulty,  and,  since  Mohammed  con- 
fessed that  he  now  saw  no  chance  of  the  pinnace  reaching  Benares 
before  Sunday  evening,  to  hire  bearers  also  to  carry  me  to  Seid- 
poor,  on  the  regular  Dak  road,  where  I felt  convinced  that  my 
Ghazeepoor  friends,  knowing  how  the  wind  was,  would  have 
relays  stationed  for  me.  The  Corries  arrived  at  the  same  point  a 
little  before  me,  as  in  tracking,  a budgerow,  even  of  the  heaviest 
kind,  has  an  advantage  over  a vessel  with  sails  and  rigging. 

September  3. — Forty-five  men  attended  this  morning,  of  whom 
some  were  dispersed  among  the  other  boats,  but  with  the  addition 
of  her  crew,  the  Cora  had  forty  men  at  the  drag-line ; of  these 
we  had  two,  lest  one  should  break,  both  new  and  strong  ones. 
This  was  a necessary  precaution,  because  if  the  tow-line  breaks, 
the  boat  is  in  considerable  danger.  The  country-people  said, 
that  they  had  seen  a budgerow  literally  dashed  to  pieces  the  year 
before  in  the  very  place  where  we  were  lying.  The  people  were 
saved  with  great  difficulty,  but  every  thing  on  board  was  lost,  and 
hardly  two  planks  of  the  boat  remained  together.  The  stream 
is  indeed  like  that  of  a cataract,  and  the  bank  so  high  and  crum- 
bling, that  the  trackers  work  at  a great  disadvantage,  as  they  dare 
not  come  close  to  the  edge,  and  have  to  wind  their  way  through 
trees  and  brushwood,  and  among  the  pillars  of  an  old  pagoda. 
At  length,  having  occupied  four  hours  in  advancing  nine  miles, 
the  current  becoming  slacker,  the  boatmen  said  they  could  get  on 
without  further  help.  1 therefore  dismissed  my  labourers,  well 
satisfied  with  a present  of  four  rupees  to  be  divided  among  them, 
and  set  out  on  my  first  dak  journey.  I had  twelve  bearers,  the 
road  between  this  place  and  Seidpoor  lying  through  fields  and 
broken  country,  a double  number  being,  as  I was  assured,  neces- 
sary, particularly  as  it  was  not  certain  that  I should  find  a relief 


DAK  JOURNEY—SEIDPOOR. 


239 


on  this  side  Benares,  a distance  of  24  English  miles.  I had  my 
clothes  and  writing-desk  in  two  petarrahs,  (a  sort  of  wicker  box,) 
which  one  man  carried  slung  on  a bamboo  across  his  shoulders, 
my  mate-bearer  to  run  with  me,  and,  besides  light  refreshments, 
I was  told  to  take  my  pistols.  Such  is  the  usual  style  in  which 
dak  journeys  are  made  in  India  ; and  it  may  serve  as  an  addi- 
tional proof  of  the  redundant  population  and  cheapness  of  labour, 
that  this  number  of  bearers  are  obtained  for  such  severe  and  un- 
pleasant work,  at  about  12s.  for  the  stage,  varying  from  6 to  12 
miles.  The  men  set  out  across  the  meadows  at  a good  round  trot 
of  about  4 miles  an  hour,  grunting  all  the  way  like  paviours  in 
England,  a custom  which,  like  paviours,  they  imagine  eases  them 
under  their  burthen.  The  road,  however,  soon  became  too  uneven 
for  a rapid  progress,  and  we  were  above  three  hours  in  reaching 
Seidpoor,  a distance  of  8 miles.  There  were  indeed  some  diffi- 
cult fords  by  the  way,  owing  to  the  late  rain,  and  no  better  road 
than  the  paths  leading  from  one  village  to  another.  The  Ganges 
was  in  sight  almost  all  the  time,  though  our  course  lay  a little 
inlsPnd.  The  country  is  fertile  and  populous,  with  a good  deal 
of  fine  timber,  but  very  few  palms ; the  cultivation  chiefly  of 
millet,  pulse,  and  Indian  corn.  In  coming  to  any  deep  nullah, 
or  steep  bank,  the  bearers  displayed  considerable  adroitness  in 
supporting  their  burthen.  Only  four  can  usually  put  their  shoul- 
ders to  a palanquin  at  the  same  time.  But  those  who  were  not 
under  the  poles  thrust  stout  bamboos  under  the  bottom  of  the 
palanquin,  and  took  hold  of  the  ends  on  each  side,  so  that  the 
strength  of  six  men  more  was,  for  the  time,  brought  into  action. 
They  required  indeed  such  aid,  since  the  road  was  certainly  far 
from  good,  while  the  bearers  were  not  a very  stout  set,  and  pro- 
bably were  agricultural  labourers,  not  in  the  habit  of  dak  travel- 
ling. The  motion  is  neither  violent  nor  unpleasant.  It  is  incessant, 
however,  and  renders  it  impossible  to  draw,  and  not  very  conve- 
nient to  read,  except  a large  print. 

Seidpoor  I found  a little  country  town,  with  very  narrow 
streets,  having  verandah’d  ranges  of  shops  on  each  side  ; the 
houses  generally  one  story  above  the  ground,  built  of  clay,  with 
red  tile  roofs,  and  extremely  projecting  eaves.  There  were  a 
little  old  mosque  and  a pagoda,  both  of  stone.  The  latter,  like 
most  in  this  neighbourhood,  was  surmounted  by  a sort  of  pyra- 
midal spire,  which,  seen  amidst  the  tall  peepul  trees,  by  which  it 
was  surrounded  and  overtopped,  gave  the  place  some  little  air 
of  an  English  village.  I made  the  men  set  me  down  under  the 
shade  of  the  peepul  trees,  and  sent  my  bearer  to  the  dak-master 
of  the  place.  A very  good  looking  young  man  soon  made  his 
appearance,  with  pretty  much  the  air  of  a smart  young  farmer, 
who  had  a commission  in  a volunteer  corps.  His  dress  was  the 


240 


DAK  JOURNEY. 


common  shirt  and  cummerbund,  but  his  turban  was  very  neat, 
he  had  embroidered  shoes,  his  sword,  the  mark  of  his  office,  was 
tied  with  a military  belt  round  his  waist,  and  had  a silver-hilt 
and  red  scabbard,  and  his  beard  was  trimmed  very  sprucely,  a la 
militaire.  He  was  followed  by  two  police  burkandazes,  with 
their  usual  equipment  of  sword  and  shield,  and  a number  of 
bearers,  whom,  he  said,  the  dak-wala,  being  obliged  to  go  from 
home,  had  left  ready  for  me,  by  his  orders,  in  consequence  of  a 
letter  he  had  received  from  Mr.  Melville.  He  was,  he  added 
with  a low  bow,  the  jemautdar  at  my  service,  and  asked  if  I 
wished  either  himself  or  his  men  to  guard  me.  1 thanked  him, 
but  said  this  was  quite  unnecessary ; but  he  replied,  he  would, 
however,  see  me  through  the  town,  and,  in  fact,  was  of  consider- 
able use  in  clearing  the  way  through  the  baskets,  bags,  and 
hackeries  of  a small  but  crowded  market-place.  He  had  brought 
eight  bearers,  beside  two  more  with  a sort  of  flambeau,  wrapped 
up  in  coarse  canvass  painted  red  and  white,  useless  enough  in 
the  middle  of  the  day,  but  who  always  accompany  dak  travellers. 

We  set  off  at  the  same  round-trot  as  before,  but  along  a rrmch 
better  road,  being  smooth,  wide,  and  straight,  through  corn-fields 
and  meadows,  with  an  evident,  though  abortive  attempt,  to  rear 
a row  of  young  trees  on  each  side.  The  English  magistrates  of 
India  are  fond,  and  with  reason,  of  such  avenues,  and  many  have 
been  planted  of  late  years ; the  young  trees  are  each  of  them 
surrounded  with  low  mud-banks  by  way  of  fence,  but  the  pre- 
caution appears  very  often  insufficient  to  save  them  from  the 
cows,  and,  still  more,  the  goats  of  the  common  people.  After 
proceeding  about  four  miles,  we  came  to  the  ferry  of  the  Goomty, 
which  is,  at  this  time  of  the  year,  a considerable  river.  I expected 
to  be  delayed  here,  but  nothing  of  the  kind  occurred.  The  boat, 
a broad  and  substantial  one,  had  a platform  of  wood  covered 
with  clay  across  its  middle.  The  palanquin,  with  me  in  it,  was 
placed  on  this  with  its  length  athwart  the  vessel,  the  mangee 
steered,  and  some  of  the  dak-bearers  took  up  oars,  so  that  we 
were  across  in  a very  short  time.  Two  men,  mounted  on  camels, 
were  at  the  same  time  endeavouring  to  ford  the  stream.  I saw 
them  making  a long  circuit  among  some  marshy  islands,  but  did 
not  witness  their  ulterior  progress.  They  crossed,  however,  for 
they  overtook  me  at  the  next  village. 

About  three  o’clock  we  came  to  a pleasant  village  with  a good 
bazar  and  some  fine  bamboos,  where  I determined  to  wait  for  my 
baggage,  which  had  fallen  behind.  I sate  accordingly  in  the 
shade,  amused  by  the  usual  little  sights  and  occurrences  of  a 
village,  and  only  diflering  in  the  costume  and  complexion  of  the 
people  from  what  one  might  have  seen  in  England.  Several 
country  lasses  passed  with  their  kedgeree  pots  of  water  on  their 


DAK  JOURNEY, 


241 


heads,  their  arms  loaded  with  alternate  rings  of  silver  and  red  lac, 
their  bare  ankles  also  in  silver  shackles,  their  foreheads  dyed  red, 
and  their  noses  and  ears  disfigured  by  monstrous  rings  of  the  same 
metal.  A set  of  little  naked  boys  suspended  their  play  at  a sort 
of  prison-bars,  and  came  near  to  look  at  me ; the  two  camels,  which 
I had  passed,  came  slowly  up  the  street,  and  a little  boy  smartly 
dressed,  and  mounted  on  a very  pretty  pony,  I suppose  the  son 
of  the  Zemindar,  came  out  to  take  his  evening  ride,  conducted  by 
an  old  rustic-looking  saees,  with  a leading  rein.  At  length  a 
young  man  in  a sort  of  Cossac  military  dress,  and  with  a sabre  by 
his  side,  ran  out  in  a great  hurry  from  a little  shop,  and  with  an 
air  and  manner  which  well  became  one  who  had  been  passing 
some  time  in  an  ale-house,  asked  me  if  1 knew  any  thing  of  the 
“ Lord  Padre  Sahib.”  On  telling  him  I was  the  person,  he 
checked  “ his  faltering  voice  and  visage  incomposed,”  joined  his 
hands,  and  gave  me  the  “ buhoot  salaam”  of  Mr.  Brooke,  that  he 
had  charged  him  to  go  and  meet  me,  to  let  me  know  that  dinner 
was  at  four  o’clock,  to  ask  whether  he  could  be  of  any  use  to  me, 
and  if  not,  to  bring  back  word  how  soon  1 might  be  expected,  and 
if  there  were  any  gentlemen  with  me.  1 told  him  I was  waiting 
for  my  baggage  and  servant,  on  which  he  ran  off  as  if  he  were 
“ demented,”  and  pulling  out  a trooper’s  horse  from  under  a shed, 
scampered  away  towards  the  Goomty,  with  a zeal  which  made 
my  bearers  burst  into  a laugh.  He  returned,  however,  almost 
immediately,  having  met  some  farmers,  who,  seated  on  their  little 
ponies,  with  their  coarse  cotton  mantles  over  one  shoulder,  and 
their  long  naked  legs  and  broad  feet  thrust  into  short  rope  stir- 
rups, were  returning,  I believe,  from  Seidpoor  market,  and  who, 
as  well  as  the  camel  riders,  who  now  came  up,  assured  me  that 
no  petarrahs  or  servant  had  yet  crossed  the  ferry.  The  horseman 
now  begged  his  dismissal,  that  he  might  carry  the  news  of  my 
approach  to  Mr.  Brooke,  and  asked  again  whether  I should  be 
there  to  dinner.  At  this  question,  which,  considering  what  he 
had  said  before  was  absurd  enough,  the  bearers  again  laughed,  and 
1 begged  him  to  tell  Mr,  Brooke,  with  my  salaam,  that  I hoped 
to  be  at  his  house  before  night,  on  which  he  set  along  the 
Benares  road  at  full  gallop. 

I was  a good  deal  annoyed  at  the  non-appearance  of  my  lug- 
gage, till  one  of  the  camel  men  told  me  that  it  was  quite  safe,  for 
he  had  seen  it,  before  he  left  Seidpoor,  under  the  care  of  the 
jemautdar,  who  had  been  unable  to  get  bearers  for  it.  I therefore 
again  set  out,  and  was  soon  after  greeted  by  a second  trooper,  an 
elderly  man,  with  a long  beard  dyed  a carotty  red,  which  made  a 
whimsical  contrast  with  his  dusky  skin,  but  which,  as  I afterwards 
learned,  is  no  infrequent  piece  of  foppery  in  Asia  with  those  who 
do  not  think  the  “ hoary  head  a crown  of  glory.”  For  his  services 

VoL.  I.— 31 


242 


SECROLE. 


I found  I was  indebted  to  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Macleod,  the  ma- 
gistrate of  Benares,  and,  either  naturally  or  accidently,  I found 
him  a much  clearer-headed  fellow  than  the  other.  He  offered  to 
go  on  to  Seidpoor  to  inquire  about  my  baggage,  till  I told  him  it 
had  been  left  in  the  care  of  the  jemautdar.  “ Good,  he  is  a good 
man,”  said  he ; “ but  as  night  is  coming  on  I will  tell  the  burkandaz 
of  this  village  to  go  to  meet  it  at  the  Goomty,  and  bring  it  safe  on 
to  the  next  dak-house,  where  we  can  give  further  orders,  and  I 
will  soon  overtake  your  honour.”  These  mounted  gens  d’armes 
are  the  usual  attendants  of  magistrates  of  the  higher  rank  in  all 
the  Upper  Provinces,  who  have  also  an  apparatus  of  spears  in  their 
train,  more  imposing,  in  my  eyes,  than  all  the  silver  sticks  of 
Calcutta. 

At  the  dak-house,  where  I arrived  about  dusk,  Mr.  Macleod’s 
kindness  had  stationed  bearers,  and  mussaulchies,  whose  lights 
were  now  really  useful.  Mr.  Brooke,  too,  had  stationed  four 
burkandazes,  with  swords  and  shields,  to  see  me  safe  and  show 
me  the  way,  so  that  my  last  stage,  which  lay  chiefly  through  a 
wide  avenue  of  tall  trees,  was  very  picturesque,  from  the  various 
tints  and  groups  seen  by  the  light  of  the  flambeaux,  the  sabres, 
the  whiskers,  turbans,  and  naked  limbs  of  my  bearers,  guards, 
and  conductors.  We  left  Benares  considerably  to  the  left,  in 
order  to  reach  Mr.  Brooke’s  house  at  Secrole.  Mr.  Brooke  has 
been  fifty-six  years  in  India,  being  the  oldest  of  the  Company’s 
resident  servants.  He  is  a very  fine  healthy  old  man,  his  manners 
singularly  courteous  and  benevolent,  and  his  tone,  in  speaking 
Hindoostanee  and  Persian,  such  as  marks  a man  who  has  been  in 
the  habit  of  conversing  much  with  natives  of  high  rank.  Though 
1 was  his  guest,  I was  not  in  his  house,  but  in  one  he  had  bor- 
rowed from  Dr.  Yeld,  the  surgeon  of  the  station,  a very  good 
house,  and  extremely  well  qualified  either  for  lodging  guests  or 
giving  entertainments. 

At  dinner  to-day  were,  besides  Dr.  Yeld,  only  Mr.  Frazer  and 
Mr.  Macleod,  whose  care  of  me  on  the  road  I mentioned,  and 
whom  I had  met  at  Ghazeepoor.  I remember  to  have  known  him 
by  sight  in^Uxford,  as  rather  my  junior,  and  a great  friend  of 
Wilson,  since  well  known  as  author  of  the  “ City  of  the  Plague.” 
I now  find  him  a very  agreeable  and  well-informed  man,  less 
altered,  I think,  in  exterior,  than  most  of  my  college  contempo- 
raries. On  the  whole  the  day  was  a very  interesting  one,  and  the 
details  of  my  little  journey,  though  unmarked  by  any  important 
event,  had  introduced  me  to  scenes  and  situations  which  were 
new  to  me,  and  which  I have  not  been  sorry  to  write  down  while 
the  effect  of  the  first  impression  remains  unpalled  by  repetition. 
Mr.  Frazer  is  chaplain  of  this  station,  and,  I am  told,  extremely 
popular  and  exemplary. 


SECROLE. 


243 


September  4. — This  morning  was  chiefly  passed  in  arranging 
with  Mr.  Frazer,  Mr.  Morris  the  Church  Missionary,  and  other 
gentlemen,  the  ceremonies  of  the  following  day.  In  order  to  give 
the  persons  confirmed  an  early  opportunity  of  receiving  the  com- 
munion, it  was  desirable  that  the  confirmation  should,  as  at  Dacca, 
precede  the  consecration  of  the  church.  This  evening  was  the 
time  first  fixed  on  by  me  for  the  former,  but  it  was  found  that  the 
Mohammedan  fast  of  the  Mohurrun,  now  just  terminating,  which 
always  concludes  with  processions,  firing  guns,  beating  drums  and 
other  music,  would  make  it  impossible  for  anybody  to  hear  what 
was  said,  inasmuch  as  the  principal  processions  pass  usually  close 
to  the  church-yard.  It  was  therefore  at  length  determined,  as  the 
only  arrangement  suited  to  the  circumstances  of  the  time  and 
climate,  that  the  morning  prayer  and  confirmation  service,  with- 
out the  communion,  should  be  read  at  seven  o’clock  on  Sunday 
morning,  and  that  the  church  should  be  consecrated  and  the  com- 
munion administered  at  seven  o’clock  the  same  evening. 

September  5. — At  six  this  morning  I attended  the  Hindoostanee 
place  of  worship,  a small  but  neat  chapel,  built  by  a subscription 
raised  when  Mr.  Corrie  was  here,  and  under  his  auspices.  The 
congregation  consisted  of  about  thirty  grown  persons,  and  twelve 
or  fourteen  children.  Mr.  Morris,  the  Church  Missionary,  read 
the  morning  service,  litany,  and  commandments,  from  the  Hin- 
doostanee compendium  of  our  liturgy,  which  unfortunately  is  as 
yet  without  the  Psalms.  I gave  the  benediction  for  the  first  time 
in  Hindoostanee,  and  then  hastened  to  the  church  which  1 found 
a small  but  very  neat  building.  The  candidates  for  confirmation 
were  thirty,  of  whom  four  were  young  artillery-men,  and  fourteen 
native  Christians.  To  the  latter  I repeated  the  question,  and 
pronounced  the  benediction,  in  Hindoostanee.  The  case  of  one 
of  these  men  had  occasioned  me  some  perplexity  the  day  before, 
when  Mr.  Morris  stated  it  to  me;  but  I had  now  made  up  my 
mind.  He  was  a convert  of  Mr.  Corrie’s,  and  six  years  ago 
married  a woman  who  then  professed  herself  a Christian,  but  soon 
afterwards  ran  away  from  him  and  turned  Mussulman,  in  which 
profession  she  was  now  living  with  another  man.  The  husband 
had  applied  to  the  magistrate  to  recover  her,  but,  on  the  woman 
declaring  that  she  was  no  Christian,  and  did  not  choose  to  be  the 
wife  of  one,  he  said  he  could  not  compel  her.  The  husband,  in 
consequence,  about  two  years  ago  applied  to  Mr.  F razer  to  marry 
him  to  another  woman.  Mr.  Frazer  declined  doing  so,  as  no 
divorce  had  taken  place;  on  which  he  took  the  woman  without 
marriage,  and  had  now  two  children  by  her.  For  this  he  had 
been  repelled  from  the  communion  by  Mr.  Morris,  but  still  con- 
tinued to  frequent  the  church,  and  was  now  very  anxious  for  con- 
firmation. After  some  thought,  I came  to  the  conclusion  that  the 


244 


MISSION  SCHOOL. 


man  should  be  reproved  for  the  precipitancy  with  which  he  had 
formed  his  first  connection,  and  the  scandal  which  he  had  since 
occasioned ; but  that  he  might  be  admitted  both  to  confirmation 
and  the  communion,  and  might  be  married  to  the  woman  who 
now  held  the  place  of  a wife  to  him.  It  seemed  a case  to  which 
St,  Paul’s  rule  applied,  that  if  an  unbelieving  husband  or  wife 
choose  to  depart,  on  religious  grounds,  from  their  believing  part- 
ner, this  latter  was,  in  consequence,  free.  At  all  events,  as  the 
runaway  woman  was,  if  a wife,  living  in  open  adultery,  it  was 
plain  that  he  had  a right  to  “ put  her  away.”  Though  the  laws 
of  the  country  provided  him  no  remedy,  yet,  as  a matter  of  con- 
science, this  right  might  be  fitly  determined  on  by  his  religious 
guides ; and  I conceived  myself  warranted  to  declare  him  divorced 
and  at  liberty  to  marry  again.  My  determination,  I found,  gave 
great  satisfaction  to  Mr.  Frazer  and  Mr.  Morris,  both  of  whom 
said,  that  without  some  such  permission  the  state  of  new  converts 
would  be  often  very  hard,  and  that  the  usual  remedies  supplied 
by  the  canon  law  would  be,  to  men  in  such  circumstances,  utterly 
unattainable.  I had  some  conversation  with  the  man,  who  spoke 
a little  English,  and  saw  no  reason  to  repent  my  decision,  since 
I found  him  tolerably  well  informed  in  the  principles  of  Chris- 
tianity, and,  to  all  appearance,  earnest  in  its  profession. 

We  dined  between  services.  In  the  evening  the  church  was 
extremely  full,  and  there  were,  I think,  fifty  communicants,  almost 
all  who  had  been  confirmed  attending.  To  the  natives  I gave  the 
communion,  with  the  accompanying  words,  in  their  own  language. 

September  6. — I went  this  morning  with  Mr.  Frazer  to  the 
Mission  School  in  the  city,  which  is  kept  in  a large  house  well 
adapted  for  the  purpose,  and  made  over  to  the  Church  Missionary 
Society,  together  with  other  tenements  adjoining,  by  a rich  Ben- 
galee baboo,  not  long  since  dead  in  Benares,  whom  Mr.  Corrie 
had  almost  persuaded  to  become  a Christian,  but  who  at  length 
appears  to  have  settled  in  a sort  of  general  admiration  of  the 
beauty  of  the  gospel,  and  a wish  to  improve  the  state  of  know- 
ledge and  morality  among  his  countrymen.  In  these  opinions  he 
seems  to  have  been  followed  by  his  son,  Calisunker  Gossant,  now 
living,  and  also  a liberal  benefactor  to  this  and  other  establish- 
ments for  national  education  in  India.  The  house  is  a native 
dwelling,  containing  on  the  ground-floor  several  small  low  rooms, 
in  which  are  the  junior  classes,  and,  above,  one  large  and  lofty 
hall  supported  by  pillars,  where  the  Persian  and  English  classes 
meet,  besides  a small  room  for  a library.  The  boys  on  the  esta- 
blishment are  about  140,  under  the  care  of  &n  English  school- 
master, assisted  by  a Persian  Moonshee,  and  two  Hindoostanee 
writing-masters,  the  whole  under  the  inspection  of  a catechist, 
Mr.  Adlington,  a clever  young  man,  and  a candidate  for  orders. 


BENARES. 


245 


♦ 

The  boys  read  Oordoo,  Persian,  and  English  before  me  extremely 
well,  and  answered  questions  both  in  English  and  Hindoostanee 
with  great  readiness.  The  English  books  they  read  were  the 
New  Testament,  and  a compendium  of  English  history.  They 
also  displayed  great  proficiency  in  writing  (Nagree,  Persian,  and 
English),  arithmetic,  in  which  their  multiplication  table  extended 
to  100x100,  geography,  and  the  use  of  the  globes.  To  judge 
from  their  dress,  they  were  mostly  belonging  to  the  middling  class 
of  life.  Many,  I think  the  majority,  had  the  brahminical  string. 

I asked  the  catechist  and  schoolmaster  if  any  of  these  boys  or 
their  parents  objected  to  their  reading  the  New  Testament.  They 
answered  that  they  had  never  heard  any  objection  made,  nor  had 
the  least  reason  to  believe  that  any  was  felt.  The  boys,  they 
said,  were  very  fond  of  the  New  Testament,  and  1 can  answer 
for  their  understanding  it.  I wish  a majority  of  English  school- 
boys might  appear  equally  well-informed.  The  scene  was  a very 
interesting  one ; there  were  present  the  patron  of  the  school, 
Calisimker  Gossant,  a shrewd  and  rather  ostentatious,  but  a well- 
mannered  baboo,  his  second  son,  a fine  and  well-educated  young 
man,  Mr.  Macleod  and  Mr.  Prinsep,  the  magistrates  of  the  place, 
both  very  acute  critics  in  Hindoostanee  and  Persian,  some  ladies, 
and  a crowd  of  swords,  spears,  and  silver-sticks  on  the  stair-case, 
(whose  bearers,  by  the  way,  seemed  to  take  as  much  interest  as 
any  of  us  in  what  was  going  on.)  One,  however,  of  the  most 
pleasing  sights  of  all,  was  the  calm  but  intense  pleasure  visible  on 
Archdeacon  Corrie’s  face,  whose  efforts  and  influence  had  first 
brought  this  establishment  into  activity,  and  who  now,  after  an 
interval  of  several  years,  was  witnessing  its  usefulness  and  pros- 
peritj^ 

In  our  way  to  and  from  the  school  I had  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  something  of  Benares,  which  is  a very  remarkable  city, 
more  entirely  and  characteristically  eastern  than  any  which  I 
have  yet  seen,  and  at  the  same  time  altogether  different  from  any 
thing  in  Bengal.  No  Europeans  live  in  the  town,  nor  are  the 
streets  wide  enough  for  a wheel-carriage.  Mr.  Frazer’s  gig  was 
stopped  short  almost  in  its  entrance,  and  the  rest  of  the  way  was 
passed  in  tonjons,  through  alleys  so  crowded,  so  narrow,  and  so 
winding,  that  even  a tonjon  sometimes  passed  with  difficulty. 
The  houses  are  mostly  lofty,  none  I think  less  than  two  stories, 
most  of  three,  and  several  of  five  or  six,  a sight  which  I now  for 
the  first  time  saw  in  India.  The  streets,  like  those  of  Chester, 
are  considerably  lower  than  the  ground-floors  of  the  houses,  which 
have  mostly  arched  rows  in  front,  with  little  shops  behind  them. 
Above  these,  the  houses  are  richly  embellished  with  verandahs, 
galleries,  projecting  oriel  windows,  and  very  broad  and  overhang- 
ing eaves,  supported  by  carved  brackets.  The  number  of  temples 


246 


RELIGIOUS  MENDICANTS. 


• 

is  very  great,  mostly  small  and  stuck  like  shrines  in  the  angles  of 
the  streets,  and  under  the  shadow  of  the  lofty  houses.  Their 
forms,  however,  are  not  ungraceful,  and  they  are  many  of  them 
entirely  covered  over  with  beautiful  and  elaborate  carvings  of 
flowers,  animals,  and  palm  branches,  equalling  in  minuteness  and 
richness  the  best  specimens  that  I have  seen  of  Gothic  or  Grecian 
architecture.  The  material  of  the  buildings  is  a very  good  stone 
from  Chunar,  but  the  Hindoos  here  seem  fond  of  painting  them  a 
deep  red  colour,  and,  indeed,  of  covering  the  more  conspicuous 
parts  of  their  houses  with  paintings  in  gaudy  colours  of  flower- 
pots, men,  women,  bulls,  elephants,  gods,  and  goddesses,  in  all 
their  maiiy-formed,  many-headed,  many-handed,  and  many-wea- 
poned  varieties.  The  sacred  bulls  devoted  to  Siva,  of  every  age, 
tame  and  familiar  as  mastiffs,  walk  lazily  up  and  down  these 
narrow  streets,  or  are  seen  lying  across  them,  and  hardly  to  be 
kicked  up  (any  blows,  indeed,  given  them  must  be  of  the  gentlest 
kind,  or  wo  be  to  the  profane  wretch  who  braves  the  prejudices 
of  this  fanatic  population)  in  order  to  make  way  for  the  tonjon. 
Monkeys  sacred  to  Hunimaun,  the  divine  ape  who  conquered 
Ceylon  for  Rama,  are  in  some  parts  of  the  town  equally  nume- 
rous, clinging  to  all  the  roofs  and  little  projections  of  the  temples, 
putting  their  impertinent  heads  and  hands  into  every  fruiterer’s 
or  confectioner’s  shop,  and  snatching  the  food  from  the  children 
at  their  meals.  Faqueer’s  houses,  as  they  are  called,  occur  at 
every  turn,  adorned  with  idols,  and  sending  out  an  unceasing 
tinkling  and  strumming  of  vinas,  biyals,  and  other  discordant 
instruments,  while  religious  mendicants  of  every  Hindoo  sect, 
offering  every  conceivable  deformity,  which  chalk,  cow-dung, 
disease,  matted  locks,  distorted  limbs,  and  disgusting  and  hideous 
attitudes  of  penance  can  show,  literally  line  the  principal  streets 
on  both  sides.  The  number  of  blind  persons  is  very  great,  (I  was 
going  to  say  of  lepers  also,  but  I am  not  sure  whether  the  appear- 
ance on  the  skin  may  not  have  been  filth  and  chalk,)  and  here  I 
saw  repeated  instances  of  that  penance  of  which  I had  heard 
much  in  Europe,  of  men  with  their  legs  or  arms  voluntarily  dis- 
torted by  keeping  them  in  one  position,  and  their  hands  clenched 
till  the  nails  grew  out  at  the  backs.  Their  pitiful  exclamations 
as  we  passed,  ‘‘ Agha  Sahib,”  “ Topee  Sahib,”  (the  usual  names 
in  Hindustan  for  an  European)  “ khana  ke  waste  kooch  cheez 
do,”  “ give  me  something  to  eat,”  soon  drew  from  me  what  few 
pice  I had,  but  it  was  a drop  of  water  in  the  ocean,  and  the  im- 
portunities of  the  rest,  as  we  advanced  into  the  city,  were  almost 
drowned  in  the  hubbub  which  surrounded  us.  Such  are  the  sights 
and  sounds  which  greet  a stranger  on  entering  this  “ the  most 
Holy  City”  of  Hindostan,  “ the  Lotus  of  the  world,  not  founded 
on  common  earth,  but  on  the  point  of  Siva’s  trident,”  a place  so 


AMRUT  ROW. 


247 


blessed  that  whoever  dies  here,  of  whatever  sect,  even  though  he 
should  be  an  eater  of  beef,  so  he  will  hut  he  charitahle  to  the  poor 
hrahmins^  is  sure  of  salvation.  It  is,  in  fact,  this  very  holiness 
which  makes  it  the  common  resort  of  beggars  ; since,  besides  the 
number  of  pilgrims,  which  is  enormous,  from  every  part  of  India, 
as  well  as  from  Thibet  and  the  Birman  empire,  a great  multitude 
of  rich  individuals  in  the  decline  of  life,  and  almost  all  the  great 
men  who  are  from  time  to  time  disgraced  or  banished  from  home 
by  the  revolutions  which  are  continually  occurring  in  the  Hindoo 
states,  come  hither  to  wash  away  their  sins,  or  to  fill  up  their 
vacant  hours  with  the  gaudy  ceremonies  of  their  religion,  and 
really  give  away  great  sums  in  profuse  and  indiscriminate  charity. 
Amrut  Row,  for  a short  period  of  his  life  Peishwa  of  the  Maha- 
rattas,  and  since  enjoying  a large  pension  from  our  Government 
in  addition  to  a vast  private  fortune,  was  one  of  the  chief  of  these 
almsgivers.  On  his  name-day,  that  is,  in  Hindostan,  the  day  on 
which  his  patron  god  is  worshipped,  he  annually  gave  a seer  of 
rice  and  a rupee  to  every  brahmin,  and  every  blind  or  lame  per- 
son who  applied  between  sun-rise  and  sun-set.  He  had  a large 
garden  a short  distance  from  the  city  with  four  gates,  three  of 
which  were  set  open  for  the  reception  of  the  three  different  classes 
of  applicants,  and  the  fourth  for  the  Peishwa  and  his  servants  to 
go  backwards  and  forwards.  On  each  person  receiving  his  dole, 
he  was  shown  into  the  garden,  where  he  was  compelled  to  stay 
during  the  day  lest  he  should  apply  twice,  hut  he  had  shade, 
water,  company,  and  idols  enough  to  make  a Hindoo  (who  seldom 
eats  till  sun-set)  pass  his  time  very  pleasantly.  The  sums  dis- 
tributed on  these  occasions  are  said  to  have  in  some  instances 
amounted  to  above  50,000  rupees.  His  annual  charities  alto- 
gether averaged,  1 was  informed,  probably  three  times  that  amount. 
He  died  the  second  night  of  my  residence  at  Secrole ; Mr.  Brooke 
said  he  was  really  a good  and  kind  man,  religious  to  the  best  of 
his  knowledge,  and  munificent,  not  from  ostentation  hut  principle. 
There  are  yet,  I understand,  some  living  instances  of  splendid 
bounty  among  the  Hindoos  of  Benares,  indeed  Calisunker  is  no 
bad  specimen,  and  on  the  whole  my  opinion  of  the  people  im- 
proves, though  it  was  never  so  unfavourable  as  that  of  many  good 
men  in  Calcutta.  “ God,”  I yet  hope  and  believe,  in  the  midst 
of  the  awful  and  besotted  darkness  which  surrounds  me,  and  of 
which,  as  well  as  its  miserable  consequences,  1 am  now  more 
sensible  than  ever,  “ God  may  have  much  people  in  this  city!” 
By  the  time  the  examination  at  the  school  was  over,  the  sun 
was  too  high  to  admit  of  our  penetrating  further  into  these 
crowded  streets.  Close  to  the  school,  however,  was  a fine  house 
belonging  to  two  minors,  the  sons  of  a celebrated  baboo,  who 
had  made  a vast  fortune  as  Dewan  to  some  Europeans  high  in 


248 


NATIVE’S  HOUSE. 


office,  as  well  as  to  some  natives  of  rank  resident  in  and  near 
Benares,  which  we  had  time  to  see.  It  was  a striking  building, 
and  had  the  advantage,  very  unusual  in  Benares,  of  having  a 
vacant  area  of  some  size  before  the  door,  which  gave  us  an  op- 
portunity of  seeing  its  architecture.  It  is  very  irregular,  built 
round  a small  court,  two  sides  of  which  are  taken  up  by  the 
dwelling-house,  the  others  by  offices.  The  house  is  four  lofty 
stories  high,  with  a tower  over  the  gate  of  one  story  more.  The 
front  has  small  windows  of  various  forms,  some  of  them  project- 
ing on  brackets  and  beautifully  carved,  and  a great  part  of  the 
wall  itself  is  covered  with  a carved  pattern  of  sprigs,  leaves,  and 
flowers,  like  an  old  fashioned  paper.  The  whole  is  of  stone,  but 
painted  a deep  red.  The  general  effect  is  by  no  means  unlike 
some  of  the  palaces  at  Venice  as  represented  in  Canaletti’s 
views.  We  entered  a gateway  similar  to  that  of  a college,  with 
a groined  arch  of  beautifully  rich  carving,  like  that  on  the  roof 
of  Christ  Church  great  gateway,  though  much  smaller.  On  each 
side  is  a deep  richly  carved  recess,  like  a shrine,  in  which  are 
idols  with  lamps  before  them,  the  household  gods  of  the  family. 
The  court  is  crowded  with  plantains  and  rose-trees,  with  a raised 
and  ornamented  well  in  its  centre ; on  the  left-hand  a narrow 
and  steep  flight  of  stone  steps,  the  meanest  part  of  the  fabric, 
without  balustrades,  and  looking  like  the  approach  to  an  English 
granary,  led  to  the  first  story.  At  their  foot  we  were  received 
by  the  two  young  heirs,  stout  little  fellows  of  thirteen  and  twelve, 
escorted  by  their  uncle,  an  immensely  fat  brahmin  pundit,  who 
is  the  spiritual  director  of  the  family,  and  a little  shrewd-looking, 
smooth  spoken,  but  vulgar  and  impudent  man,  who  called  himself 
their  Moonshee.  They  led  us  up  to  the  show-rooms,  which  are 
neither  large  nor  numerous  ; they  are,  however,  very  beautifully 
carved,  and  the  principal  of  them,  which  occupies  the  first-floor 
of  the  gateway,  and  is  a square  with  a gothic  arcade  round  it, 
struck  me  as  exceedingly  comfortable.  The  centre,  about  fifteen 
feet  square,  is  raised  and  covered  with  a carpet,  serving  as  a 
divan.  The  arcade  round  is  flagged  with  a good  deal  of  carving 
and  ornament,  and  is  so  contrived  that  on  a very  short  notice, 
four  streams  of  water,  one  in  the  centre  of  each  side,  descend 
from  the  roof  like  a permanent  shower-bath,  and  fall  into  stone 
basins  sunk  beneath  the  floor,  and  covered  with  a sort  of  open 
fret-work,  also  of  stone.  These  rooms  were  hung  with  a good 
many  English  prints  of  the  common  paltry  description  which 
was  fashionable  twenty  years  ago,  of  Sterne  and  poor  Maria,  (the 
boys  supposed  this  to  be  a doctor  feeling  a lady’s  pulse,)  the  sor- 
rows of  Werter,  &c.  together  with  a daub  of  the  present  Emperor 
of  Delhi,  and  several  portraits  in  oil  of  a much  better  kind,  of 
the  father  of  these  boys,  some  of  his  powerful  native  friends  and 


FAMILY  PAGODA. 


249 


employers,  and  of  a very  beautiful  woman  of  European  com- 
plexion, but  in  an  Eastern  dress,  of  whom  the  boys  knew  nothing, 
or  would  say  nothing  more  than  that  the  picture  was  painted  for 
their  father  by  Lall-jee  of  Patna.  I did  not,  indeed,  repeat  the 
question,  because  I know  the  reluctance  with  which  all  Eastern 
nations  speak  of  their  women,  but  it  certainly  had  the  appearance 
of  a portrait,  and,  as  well  as  the  old  baboo’s  picture,  would  have 
been  called  a creditable  painting  in  most  gentlemen’s  houses  in 
England. 

I have,  indeed,  during  the  journey,  been  surprised  at  the  pro- 
gress which  painting  appears  to  have  made  of  late  years  in  India. 
I was  prepared  to  expect  glowing  colours,  without  drawing,  per- 
spective, or  even  shadow,  resembling  the  illuminations  in  old 
monkish  chronicles,  and  in  the  oriental  MSS.  which  are  sometimes 
brought  to  England.  But  at  Sir  C.  D’Oyley’s,  I saw  several 
miniatures  of  this  same  Lall-jee,  dead  some  years  since,  and  by 
his  son  now  alive,  but  of  less  renowned  talent,  which  would  have 
done  credit  to  any  European  artist,  being  distinguished  by  great 
truth  of  colouring,  as  well  as  softness  and  delicacy.  The  portraits 
which  I now  saw,  were  certainly  not  so  good,  but  they  were  evi- 
dently the  works  of  a man  well  acquainted  with  the  principles 
of  his  art,  and  very  extraordinary  productions,  considering  that 
Lall-jee  had  probably  no  opportunity  of  so  much  as  seeing  one 
Italian  picture. 

Our  little  friends  were  very  civil,  and  pressed  us  to  stay  for 
breakfast,  but  it  was  already  late.  We  looked,  however,  before 
we  went,  at  the  family  pagoda,  which  stood  close  to  the  house, 
and  was,  though  small,  as  rich  as  carving,  painting,  and  gilding 
could  make  it.  The  principal  shrine  was  that  of  Siva,  whose 
emblem  rose  just  seen  amid  the  darkness  of  the  inner  sanctuary, 
crowned  with  scarlet  flowers,  with  lamps  burning  before  it.  In 
front,  and  under  the  centre  cupola,  was  the  sacred  bull  richly 
painted  and  gilt,  in  an  attitude  of  adoration,  and  crowned  likewise 
' with  scarlet  flowers,  and  over  all  hung  a large  silver  bell,  sus- 
pended from  the  roof  like  a chandelier.  I thought  of  the  Glen- 
doveer  and  Mount  Calasay,  but  in  the  raree-show  before  me 
there  was  nothing  sublime  or  impressive.  One  of  the  boys  in 
the  Mission  school,  whose  quickness  had  attracted  my  notice, 
and  who  appeared  so  well  pleased  with  my  praise  that  1 found 
him  still  sticking  close  to  me,  now  came  forward,  showed  his 
brahminical  string,  and  volunteered  as  cicerone,  telling  us  in 
tolerable  English  the  history  of  the  gods  and  goddesses  on  the 
walls.  The  fat  pundit  seemed  pleased  with  his  zeal,  but  it  was 
well,  perhaps,  for  the  little  urchin,  that  the  corpulent  padre  did 
not  understand  the  language  in  which  some  of  the  remarks  were 
made.  They  opened  my  eyes  more  fully  to  a danger  which  had 

VoL.  h— 32 


250 


SCHOOLS— BENARES. 


before  struck  me  as  possible,  that  some  of  the  boys  brought  up 
in  our  schools  might  grow  up  accomplished  hypocrites,  playing 
the  part  of  Christians  with  us,  and  with  their  own  people  of 
zealous  followers  of  Brahma,  or  else  that  they  would  settle  down 
into  a sort  of  compromise  between  the  two  creeds,  allowing  that 
Christianity  was  the  best  for  us,  but  that  idolatry  was  necessary 
and  commendable  in  persons  of  their  own  nation.  I talked  with 
Mr.  Frazer  and  Mr.  Morris  on  this  subject  in  the  course  of  the 
morning ; they  answered,  that  the  same  danger  had  been  foreseen 
by  Mr.  Macleod,  and  that  in  consequence  of  his  representations 
they  had  left  off  teaching  the  boys  the  Creed  and  the  Ten  Com- 
mandments, as  not  desiring  to  expose  them  too  early  to  a conflict 
with  themselves,  their  parents,  and  neighbours,  but  choosing 
rather  that  the  light  should  break  on  them  by  degrees,  and  when 
they  were  better  able  to  bear  it.  They  said,  however,  that  they 
had  every  reason  to  think  that  all  the  bigger  boys,  and  many  of 
the  lesser  ones,  brought  up  at  these  schools,  learned  to  despise 
idolatry  and  the  Hindoo  faith  less  by  any  direct  precept,  for  their 
teachers  never  name  the  subject  to  them,  and  in  the  Gospels, 
which  are  the  only  strictly  religious  books  read,  there  are  few  if 
any  allusions  to  it,  than  from  the  disputations  of  the  Mussulman 
and  Hindoo  boys  among  themselves,  from  the  comparison  which 
they  soon  learn  to  make  between  the  system  of  worship  which 
they  themselves  follow  and  ours,  and  above  all,  from  the  enlarge- 
ment of  mind  which  general  knowledge  and  the  pure  morality  of 
the  Gospel  have  a tendency  to  produce.  Many,  both  boys  and 
girls,  have  asked  for  baptism,  but  it  has  been  always  thought  right 
to  advise  them  to  wait  till  they  had  their  parents’  leave,  or  were 
old  enough  to  judge  for  themselves  ; and  many  have,  of  their  own 
accord,  begun  daily  to  use  the  Lord’s  Prayer,  and  to  desist  from 
showing  any  honour  to  the  image.  Their  parents  seem  extremely 
indifferent  to  their  conduct  in  this  respect.  Prayer,  or  outward 
adoration,  is  not  essential  to  caste.  A man  may«believe  what  he 
pleases,  nay,  I understand,  he  may  almost  say  what  he  pleases, 
without  the  danger  of  losing  it ; and  so  long  as  they  are  not 
baptized,  neither  eat  nor  drink  in  company  with  Christians  or 
Pariars,  all  is  well  in  the  opinion  of  the  great  majority,  even  in 
Benares.  The  Mussulmans  are  more  jealous,  but  few  of  their 
children  come  to  our  schools,  and  with  these  there  are  so  many 
points  of  union,  that  nothing  taught  there  is  at  all  calculated  to 
offend  them. 

September  7. — This  morning,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Macleod, 
Mr.  Prinsep,  and  Mr.  Frazer,  I again  went  into  the  city,  which  I 
found  peopled  as  before  with  bulls  and  beggars ; but  what  sur- 
prised me  still  more  than  yesterday,  as  I penetrated  further  into 
it,  were  the  large,  lofty,  and  handsome  dwelling-houses,  the  beauty 


T3ENARES. 


251 


and  apparent  richness  of  the  goods  exposed  in  the  bazars,  and 
the  evident  hum  of  business  which  was  going  on  in  the  midst  of  all 
this  wretchedness  and  fanaticism.  Benares  is,  in  fact,  a very 
industrious  and  wealthy  as  well  as  a very  holy  city.  It  is  the  great 
mart  where  the  shawls  of  the  north,  the  diamonds  of  the  south, 
and  the  muslins  of  Dacca  and  the  eastern  provinces,  centre,  and 
it  has  very  considerable  silk,  cotton,  and  fine  woollen  manufac- 
tories of  its  own ; while  English  hardware,  swords,  shields,  and 
spears  from  Lucknow  and  Monghyr,  and  those  European  luxuries 
and  elegancies  which  are  daily  becoming  more  popular  in  India, 
circulate  from  hence  through  Bundlecund,  Gorruckpoor,  Nepaul, 
and  other  tracts  which  are  removed  from  the  main  artery  of  the 
Ganges.  The  population,  according  to  a census  made  in  1803, 
amounted  to  above  582,000, — an  enormous  amount,  and  which 
one  should  think  must  have  been  exaggerated  ; but  it  is  the  nearest 
means  we  have  of  judging,  and  it  certainly  becomes  less  improba- 
ble from  the  really  great  size  of  the  town,  and  the  excessively 
crow^ded  manner  in  which  it  is  built.  It  is  well  drained,  and  stands 
dry  on  a high  rocky  bank  sloping  to  the  river,  to  which  circum- 
stance, as  well  as  to  the  frequent  ablutions  and  great  temperance 
of  the  people,  must  be  ascribed  its  freedom  from  infectious 
diseases.  Accordingly,  notwithstanding  its  crowded  population, 
it  is  not  an  unhealthy  city  ; yet  the  only  square,  or  open  part  in  it, 
is  the  new  market-place,  constructed  by  the  present  Government, 
and  about  as  large  as  the  Peckwater  Quadrangle  in  Oxford. 

Our  first  visit  was  to  a celebrated  temple,  named  the  Vishva- 
yesa,  consisting  of  a very  small  but  beautiful  specimen  of  carved 
stone-work,  and  the  place  is  one  of  the  most  holy  in  Hindostan, 
though  it  only  approximates  to  a yet  more  sacred  spot  adjoining, 
which  Aulum  Gheer  defiled,  and  built  a mosque  on  it,  so  as  to 
render  it  inaccessible  to  the  worshippers  of  Brahma.  The  temple- 
court,  small  as  it  is,  is  crowded  like  a farm-yard  with  very  fat  and 
very  tame  bulls,  which  thrust  their  noses  into  every  body’s  hand 
and  pocket  for  gram  and  sweetmeats,  which  their  fellow-votaries 
give  them  in  great  quantities.  The  cloisters  are  no  less  full  of 
naked  devotees,  as  hideous  as  chalk  and  dung  can  make  them,  and 
the  continued  hum  of  “ Ram ! Ram ! Ram ! Ram  !”  is  enough  to 
make  a stranger  giddy.  The  place  is  kept  very  clean,  however, — 
indeed  the  priests  seem  to  do  little  else  than  pour  water  over  the 
images  and  the  pavement ; and  1 found  them  not  merely  willing,  but 
anxious  to  show  me  every  thing, — frequently  repeating  that  they 
were  Padres  also,  though  it  is  true  that  they  used  this  circumstance 
as  an  argument  for  my  giving  them  a present.  Near  this  temple 
is  a well,  with  a small  tower  over  it,  and  a steep  flight  of  steps 
for  descending  to  the  water,  which  is  brought  by  a subterraneous 
channel  from  the  Ganges,  and,  for  some  reason  or  other,  is 


25^2 


OBSERVATORY. 


accounted  more  holy  than  even  the  Ganges  itself.  Ail  pilgrims 
to  Benares  are  enjoined  to  drink  and  wash  here  ; but  a few  years 
ago,  a quarrel  having  occurred  between  the  Hindoo  and  Mussul- 
man population  of  the  town,  arising  from  the  two  religious  proces- 
sions of  the  Mohurrun  and  Junma  Osmee  encountering  each  other, 
the  moslem  mob  killed  a cow  on  this  spot,  and  poured  her  blood 
into  the  sacred  water.  The  Hindoos  retaliated  by  throwing 
rashers  of  bacon  into  the  windows  of  as  many  mosques  as  they 
could  reach  ; but  the  matter  did  not  end  so  : both  parties  took  to 
arms,  several  lives  were  lost,  and  Benares  was  in  a state  of  uproar 
for  many  hours,  till  the  British  Government  came  in  with  its 
authority,  and  quelled  the  disturbance. 

In  another  temple  near  those  of  which  I have  been  speaking, 
and  which  is  dedicated  to  “ Unna  Puma,”  supposed  to  be  the 
“ Anna  Perenna”  of  the  Romans,  a brahmin  was  pointed  out  to 
me,  who  passes  his  whole  day  seated  on  a little  pulpit  about  as 
high  and  large  as  a dressing-table,  only  leaving  it  for  his  necessary 
ablutions,  and  at  night,  though  then  he  sleeps  on  the  pavement 
beside  it.  His  constant  occupation  is  reading  or  lecturing  on  the 
Vedas.  The  latter  he  does  to  as  many  as  will  hear  him,  from 
eight  in  the  morning  till  four  in  the  evening.  He  asks  for  nothing, 
but  a small  copper  basin  stands  by  his  pulpit,  into  which  any  one 
who  feels  disposed  may  drop  the  alms  on  which  only  he  subsists. 
He  is  a little  pale  man,  of  an  interesting  countenance,  which  he 
does  not  disfigure  by  such  ostentatious  marks  of  piety  as  are  usual 
here,  and  is  said  to  be  eloquent,  as  well  as  extremely  learned  in 
the  Sanscrit. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  and  singular  objects  in  Benares  is 
the  ancient  observatory,  founded  before  the  M ussulman  conquest, 
and  still  very  entire,  though  no  longer  made  any  use  of.  It  is  a 
stone  building,  containing  some  small  courts,  cloistered  round  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  astronomers  and  their  students,  and  a 
large  square  tower,  on  which  are  seen  a huge  gnomon,  perhaps 
twenty  feet  high,  with  the  arc  of  a dial  in  proportion,  a circle 
fifteen  feet  in  diameter,  and  a meridional  line,  all  in  stone.  These 
are  very  far  from  being  exact,  but  are  interesting  proofs  of  the 
zeal  with  which  science  has  at  one  time  been  followed  in  these 
countries.  There  is  a similar  observatory  at  Delhi. 

From  the  observatory  we  descended  by  a long  flight  of  steps  to 
the  water’s  edge,  where  a boat  was  waiting  for  us.  I had  thus 
an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  whole  city  on  its  most  favourable 
side.  It  is  really  a very  large  place,  and  rises  from  the  river 
in  an  amphitheatrical  form,  thickly  studded  with  domes  and 
minarets,  with  many  very  fine  ghats  descending  to  the  water’s 
edge,  all  crowded  with  bathers  and  worshippers.  Shrines  and 
temples  of  various  sizes,  even  within  the  usual  limits  of  the  river’s 


JAIN  TEMPLE. 


■253 


rise,  almost  line  its  banks.  Some  of  these  are  very  beautiful, 
though  all  are  small,  and  I was  particularly  struck  with  one  very 
elegant  little  structure,  which  was  founded,  as  well  as  the  ghat  on 
which  it  stands,  by  the  virtuous  Ali  Bhaee.  On  rowing  past  this, 
Mr.  Princep  said  that  he  had,  as  a special  favour,  obtained  per- 
mission  for  me  to  see  a Jain  temple.  These  Jains  are  a body  of 
sectaries  held  in  detestation  by  the  Hindoos,  but  who  agree  with 
them  in  their  adoration  of  the  Ganges,  and  in  their  esteem  for 
Benares.  They  are  not  very  numerous,  and  are  themselves 
divided  into  two  sects,  who  hold  each  other  in  great  abhorrence, 
and  were  recently  in  arms  in  the  streets  of  Benares,  and  were 
only  parted  by  the  same  strenuous  peace-makers  who  interfered 
in  the  war  of  the  cows  and  swine.  Those  who  reside  here  are 
chiefly  from  Bundlecund,  and  many  of  them  very  rich  merchants, 
who  are  exceedingly  jealous  of  their  religious  mysteries,  and  had 
never  been  known  to  admit  strangers  into  the  penetralia  of  their 
temple.  Mr.  Princep  had,  however,  called  most  good-naturedly 
on  the  high-priest,  and  on  one  of  the  leading  members  of  the  con- 
gregation, the  day  before,  and  had  said  so  much  about  me,  both 
personally  and  ofiicially,  that  they  offered  to  admit  me,  at  first 
alone,  and  at  length  relaxed  so  far  as  to  receive  him  and  Mr. 
Macleod  as  interpreters.  Mr.  Frazer  was  not  specially  included, 
but  Mr.  Prinsep  did  not  doubt  he  might  go  too.  The  high-priest 
is  himself  regarded  as  an  incarnation  of  the  deity. 

After  climbing  a steep  flight  of  steps,  and  threading  a succession 
of  the  narrowest  alleys  I ever  saw,  we  arrived  at  the  door  of  a 
large  and  lofty  but  dingy  house,  at  the  top  of  which  peeped  out  a 
little  gilt  cupola.  Here  we  climbed  another  steep  stair-case,  and 
were  received  in  a small  but  neat  vestibule,  without  furniture, 
except  three  or  four  chairs,  and  with  a beautiful  oriel  window 
looking  on  the  river,  by  the  priest,  a tall,  large  man,  with  a very 
shrewd  and  intelligent  countenance.  He  begged  us  to  be  seated, 
and  observed  he  was  sorry  he  could  not  converse  with  me  in  any 
' language  which  I was  sufficiently  acquainted  with,  to  make  me 
understand  all  I should  see.  Two  or  three  others,  Jain  merchants, 
now  entered,  and  the  priest  led  us  into  a succession  of  six  small 
rooms,  with  an  altar  at  the  end  of  each,  not  unlike  those  in  Roman 
Catholic  chapels,  with  a little  niche  on  one  side,  resembling  what 
in  such  Churches  they  call  the  “ Piscina.”  In  the  centre  of  each 
room  was  a large  tray  with  rice  and  ghee  strongly  perfumed,  appa- 
rently as  an  offering,  and  in  two  or  three  of  them  were  men  seated 
on  their  heels  on  the  floor,  with  their  hands  folded  as  in  prayer 
or  religious  contemplation.  Over  each  of  the  altars  was  an  altar- 
piece,  a large  bas-relief  in  marble,  containing  the  first,  five,  the 
last  in  succession  twenty-five  figures,  all  of  men  sitting  cross- 
legged,  one  considerably  larger  than  the  rest,  and  represented  as 


554 


PURNAVESA. 


a Negro.  He,  the  priest  said,  was  their  god,  the  rest  were  the 
different  bodies  which  he  had  assumed  at  different  epochs,  when 
he  had  become  incarnate  to  instruct  mankind.  The  doctrines 
which  he  had  delivered  on  these  occasions  make  up  their  theology, 
and  the  progress  which  any  man  has  made  in  these  mysteries, 
entitles  him  to  worship  in  one  or  more  of  the  successive  apart- 
ments which  were  shown  us. 

They  call  their  god,  I think,  Purnavesa^  but  he  is  evidently 
the  same  person  as  Buddha,  being  identified  by  his  Negro  features 
and  curled  hair,  and  by  the  fact  which  the  priest  mentioned,  that 
he  had  many!worshippers  in  Pegu  and  Tibet.  Yet  when  I asked 
if  he  was  the  same  with  Buddha,  he  did  not  expressly  allow  it, 
merely  answering  that  his  proper  name  was  Pumavesa.  Mr. 
Prinsep  asked  one  of  the  merchants,  what  was  the  difference 
between  their  religion  and  that  of  some  other  persons  whom  he 
named,  and  who  are  their  religious  opponents.  The  man  coloured 
up  to  the  eyes,  and  said  with  bitterness,  “ As  much  as  between 
the  Hindoo  and  the  Christian,  as  much  as  between  the  Christian 
and  the  Mussulman.”  “We  worship  the  same  God,”  the  priest 
said  more  calmly,  “ but  they  are  ignorant  how  to  worship  him.” 
Mr.  Prinsep  afterwards  told  me  that  the  merchant  to  whom  he 
spoke  had  been  one  of  the  most  active  in  the  recent  disturbance, 
and  had  been  “in  trouble”  on  that  account.  On  our  return  to 
the  vestibule,  where  we  first  entered,  the  priest  expressed  his 
satisfaction  at  the  interest  which  I had  taken  in  their  temple, 
and  the  hope  of  his  congregation  and  himself  that  1 would  accept 
a trifling  present  from  them.  One  of  the  laymen  at  this  raised  a 
cloth,  and  displayed  two  large  trays,  one  full  of  sweetmeats,  fruit, 
sugar,  &c.  the  other  of  very  handsome  shawls.  The  latter  were 
far  too  valuable  for  me  to  accept  with  propriety,  and  I told  them 
that  the  first  would  be  quite  sufficient,  and  that  it  did  not  become 
a priest  to  be  greedy  of  costly  apparel.  I then  picked  out  some 
of  the  raisins,  and  begged  them  to  send  the  fruit  to  Mr.  Brooke’s, 
but  to  excuse  my  taking  the  shawls.  The  merchants  looked 
heartily  glad,  I thought,  that  they  were  let  off  so  easily,  and 
accompanied  me  down  stairs  with  many  compliments  and  offers 
of  service  in  any  way  that  I would  command  them.  With  the 
priest  I had  a friendly  parting  at  the  stair  head. 

There  yet  remained  to  be  visited  the  mosque  of  Aurungzebe, 
and  the  Vidalaya  or  Hindoo  College,  which  fortunately  both  of 
them  lay  pretty  nearly  in  our  direct  way  home.  The  former  is  a 
handsome  building  in  a very  advantageous  situation,  but  chiefly 
remarkable  for  the  view  from  its  minarets,  which  are  very  lofty, 
and  derive  still  greater  elevation  from  the  hill  on  which  they  stand. 
The  day  was  not  favourable,  but  we  still  saw  a great  distance. 
The  Himalaya  range  may,  as  I was  told,  be  sometimes  seen,  but 


SELF-IMMOLATION. 


255 


nothing  of  the  sort  is  now  visible,  nor  any  mountains  at  all  in  a 
horizon  of  great  extent.  The  ground,  however,  of  this  part  of 
Hindostan  is  not  without  inequalities,  and  though  it  is  certainly 
for  the  most  part  one  immense  plain,  it  is  such  a plain  as  one  sees 
in  miniature  in  England  or  on  the  Continent  of  Europe,  not  such 
a mere  dead  level  as  Bengal.  The  bank  on  which  Benares  itself 
stands,  is  of  some  height,  and  there  were  several  ridges  of  hills,  as 
at  Chunar  and  other  places  within  sight,  which  would  fully  rank 
on  a level  with  Hawkstone. 

The  whole  country  seems  in  cultivation,  but  less  with  rice  than 
wheat.  The  villages  are  numerous  and  large,  but  the  scattered 
dwellings  few,  and  there  is  but  little  wood.  Fuel  is,  conse- 
quently, extremely  dear,  and  to  this  circumstance  is  imputed  the 
number  of  bodies  thrown  into  the  river  without  burning.  Suttees 
are  less  numerous  in  Benares  than  many  parts  of  India,  but  self- 
immolation  by  drowning  is  very  common.  Many  scores,  every 
year,  of  pilgrims  from  all  parts  of  India,  come  hither  expressly 
to  end  their  days  and  secure  their  salvation.  They  purchase  two 
large  kedgeree  pots,  between  which  they  tie  themselves,  and  when 
empty,  these  support  their  weight  in  the  water.  Thus  equipped, 
they  paddle  into  the  stream,  then  fill  the  pots  with  the  water 
which  surrounds  them,  and  thu5  sink  into  eternity.  Government 
have  sometimes  attempted  to  prevent  this  practice,  but  with  no 
other  effect  than  driving  the  voluntary  victims  a little  further  down 
the  river ; nor  indeed  when  a man  has  come  several  hundred 
miles  to  die,  is  it  likely  that  a police-officer  can  prevent  him. 
Instruction  seems  the  only  way  in  which  these  poor  people 
can  be  improved,  and  that,  I trust,  they  will  by  degrees  obtain 
from  us. 

The  Vidalaya  is  a large  building  divided  into  two  courts,  galle- 
ried  above  and  below,  and  full  of  teachers  and  scholars,  divided 
into  a number  of  classes,  who  learn  reading,  writing,  arithmetic, 
(in  the  Hindoo  manner)  Persian,  Hindoo  law,  and  sacred  literature, 
' Sanscrit,  astronomy,  (according  to  the  Ptolemaic  system)  and 
astrology  ! There  are  two  hundred  scholars,  some  of  whom  of 
all  sorts  came  to  say  their  lessons  to  me,  though,  unhappily,  I was 
myself  able  to  profit  by  none,  except  the  astronomy,  and  a little 
of  the  Persian.  The  astronomical  lecturer  produced  a terrestrial 
globe,  divided  according  to  their  system,  and  elevated  to  the 
meridian  of  Benares.  Mount  Meru  he  identified  with  the  north 
pole,  and  under  the  southern  pole  he  supposed  the  tortoise 
“chukwa”  to  stand,  on  which  the  earth  rests.  The  southern 
hemisphere  he  apprehended  to  be  uninhabitable,  but  on  its  con- 
cave surface,  in  the  interior  of  the  globe,  he  placed  Padalon.  He 
then  showed  me  how  the  sun  went  round  the  earth  once  in  every 
day,  and  how,  by  a different  but  equally  continuous  motion,  he 


256 


HINDOO  ASTRONOMY. 


also  visited  the  signs  of  the  zodiac.  The  whole  system  is  pre- 
cisely that  of  Ptolemy,  and  the  contrast  was  very  striking  between 
the  rubbish  which  these  young  men  were  learning  in  a Govern- 
ment establishment,  and  the  rudiments  of  real  knowledge  which 
those  whom  I had  visited  the  day  before  had  acquired,  in  the 
very  same  city,  and  under  circumstances  far  less  favourable.  1 
was  informed  that  it  had  been  frequently  proposed  to  introduce 
an  English  and  mathematical  class,  and  to  teach  the  Newtonian 
and  Copernican  system  of  astronomy ; but  that  the  late  super- 
intendant  of  the  establishment  was  strongly  opposed  to  any 
innovation,  partly  on  the  plea  that  it  would  draw  the  boys  off  from 
their  Sanscrit  studies,  and  partly  lest  it  should  interfere  with  the 
religious  prejudices  of  the  professors.  The  first  of  these  argu- 
ments is  pretty  much  like  what  was  urged  at  Oxford,  (substituting 
Greek  for  Sanscrit)  against  the  new  examinations,  by  which, 
however,  Greek  has  lost  nothing.  The  second  is  plainly  absurd, 
since  the  Ptolemaic  system,  which  is  now  taught,  is  itself  an 
innovation,  and  an  improvement  on  the  old  faith  of  eight  worlds 
and  seven  oceans,  arranged  like  a nest  of  boxes. 

The  truth  is,  that  even  the  pundit  who  read  me  this  lecture, 
smiled  once  or  twice  very  slily,  and  said,  ‘‘  our  people  are  taught 
so  and  so,”  as  if  he  himself  knew  better.  And  Mr.  Prinsep  after- 
wards told  me  that  learned  brahmins  had  sometimes  said  to  him, 
that  our  system  was  the  most  rational,  but  that  the  other  answered 
all  their  purposes.  They  could  construct  almanacs,  and  calculate 
eclipses  tolerably  by  the  one  as  well  as  the  other,  and  the  old 
one  was  quite  good  enough,  in  all  conscience,  to  cast  nativities 
with.  Nor  can  we  wonder  at  their  adherence  to  old  usage  in 
these  respects,  when  we  consider  that  to  change  their  system 
would  give  them  some  personal  trouble,  and  when  we  recollect 
that  the  church  of  Rome  has  not  even  yet  withdrawn  the  Ana- 
thema which  she  levelled  at  the  heresy  that  the  earth  turned 
round,  as  taught  by  Copernicus  and  Galileo.  There  are  in  this 
college  about  two  hundred  pupils,  and  ten  professors,  all  paid 
and  maintained  by  Government. 

During  my  progress  through  the  holy  places  1 had  received 
garlands  of  flowers  in  considerable  numbers,  which  I was  told  it 
was  uncivil  to  throw  away,  particularly  those  which  were  hung 
round  my  neck.  1 now,  in  consequence,  looked  more  like  a 
sacrifice  than  a priest,  and  on  getting  again  into  the  gig,  was  glad 
to  rid  myself  of  my  ornaments.  On  talking  with  Mr.  Macleod 
on  the  civility  and  apparent  cordiality  with  which  I had  been 
received  by  these  heathen  priests,  he  said  that  my  coming  had 
excited  considerable  curiosity,  from  the  idea  that  1 was  the  patri- 
arch of  Constantinople ! He  had  heard  this  from  a learned 
Mussulman  Moulavie,  Abdul-Khadur,  who  spoke  of  it  as  the 


BENARES. 


257 


current  news  that  such  a person  was  to  arrive,  and  asked  when 
he  might  be  expected.  The  origin  of  the  idea,  when  explained, 
was  not  an  unnatural  one.  Of  the  Bishop  of  Calcutta,  eo  nomine, 
I had  previously  reason  to  believe  nothing  had  been  heard  or 
known  in  Hindostan,  or  any  where  out  of  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Presidency ; but  the  news  now  was  that  the 
“ Sirdar  Padre,”  or  “ Mufti,”  of  all  the  “ Sahib  log”  was  coming 
to  visit  the  different  churches.  The  only  two  persons  they  had 
heard  of  answering  to  this  character  were  the  pope  and  the 
patriarch.  They  were  not  ignorant  of  the  religious  differences 
between  the  English  and  the  Roman  Catholics,  so  that  they  could 
not  suppose  me  to  be  the  former.  But  they  are  not  equally  well 
informed  as  to  our  discrepancy  from  the  second;  and  many  of 
them  believe,  that,  though  we  abhor  images,  we  still  pay  some 
reverence  to  pictures.  The  Moulavie  himself  thus  explained  his 
meaning,  saying,  (in  consequence  of  Mr.  Macleod’s  expressing 
his  surprise  at  his  first  question,  Whether  the  Papi  Roum  were 
not  coming?”)  that  he  did  not  mean  old  but  new  Rome,  or 
Islambol,  and  that  he  meant  the  head  of  those  Christians,  who, 
like  his  honour,  abhorred  images,  but  not  pictures.  1 know  not 
whether  he  quite  believed  Mr.  Macleod’s  disclaimer  of  such  wor- 
ship, but  he  professed  himself  ignorant  till  that  moment  of  the 
existence  of  a third  sect  among  the  Nazarani,  and  glad  to  find 
that  the  Sahibs  differed,  even  less  than  he  had  supposed,  from  the 
true  believers.  None  of  the  gentlemen  most  conversant  with  the 
natives  apprehended  that  my  arrival  had  created  any  suspicious 
or  jealous  feeling,  or  that  my  avowed  errand,  (to  see  that  the  in- 
ferior Padres  did  their  duty,)  was  thought  other  than  natural  and 
commendable.  It  is,  however,  thought  that  the  natives  do  not 
really  like  us,  and  that  if  a fair  opportunity  offered,  the  Mussul- 
mans, more  particularly,  would  gladly  avail  themselves  of  it  to 
rise  against  us.  But  this  is  from  political,  not  religious  feeling  ; 
and  it  has  been  increased  of  late  years  by  the  conduct  of  Lord 
'Hastings  to  the  old  Emperor  of  Delhi,  a conduct  which  has  been 
pursued  by  succeeding  administrations,  but  w^hich  entirely  differed 
from  the  outward  respect  and  allegiance  which  the  Company’s 
officers  had  professed  to  pay  him,  from  Lord  Clive  downwards. 
The  elevation  of  the  Nawab  of  Oude  to  the  kingly  title,  and 
Lord  Hastings’s  refusal  to  pay  him  the  same  homage  which  all 
his  predecessors  had  courted  every  opportunity  of  doing,  and 
which  even  the  Maharattas  did  not  neglect  when  the  late  Shah 
Aullum  was  their  prisoner,  have  awakened  questions  and  scruples 
among  the  fierce  Mohammedans  about  obeying  an  unbelieving 
nation,  which  were  quite  forgotten  while  the  English  Company 
acted  as  the  servant  and  “ Dewan”  of  the  house  of  Timur. 
The  behaviour  of  l^ord  Hastings  was  very  disadvantageously 
VoL.  I.--33 


258 


BENARES. 


contrasted  in  Benares  with  that  of  Warren  Hastings,  who,  in  the 
height  of  his  power  and  conquests,  gained  infinite  popularity  by 
riding  publicly  through  the  city,  as  usual  with  the  high  functiona- 
ries of  the  court  of  Delhi,  behind  the  howdah  of  the  hereditary 
prince,  with  a fan  of  peacock’s  feathers  in  his  hand.  This,  how- 
ever, is  a digression.  1 am  satisfied,  from  all  I hear,  that  the 
natives  of  this  neighbourhood  have  at  present  no  idea  that  any 
interference  with  their  religion  is  intended  on  the  part  of  Govera- 
ment ; that  if  any  thing,  they  rather  esteem  us  the  more  for 
showing  some  signs  of  not  being  without  a religion ; and  that  any 
fancies  of  a different  tendency  which  have  arisen,  on  this  subject, 
in  Bengal  or  other  parts  of  India,  have  been  uniformly  put  into 
their  heads  by  ill-designing  persons  among  the  Portuguese,  half- 
caste,  or  European  residents.  Nevertheless,  all  my  informants 
here,  as  well  as  in  most  other  places  where  I have  heard  the 
question  discussed,  are  of  opinion  that  a direct  interference  on 
the  part  of  Government  with  any  of  the  religious  customs  of  the 
country,  (the  suttees  for  example,)  would  be  eagerly  laid  hold 
of  and  urged  as  the  first  step  in  a new  system,  by  all  who  wish 
us  ill ; and  that  though  it  would  probably  not  of  itself  occasion  a 
rebellion,  it  would  give  additional  popularity,  and  a more  plausi- 
ble pretext,  to  the  first  rebellion  which  such  disaffected  persons 
might  find  opportunity  for  attempting.  Meanwhile  1 cannot  learn 
that  the  missionaries  and  the  schools  which  they  establish,  have 
excited  much  attention,  or  of  an  unfavourable  nature.  Their 
labours,  after  all,  have  been  chiefly  confined  to  the  wives  of  the 
British  soldiers,  who  had  already  lost  caste  by  their  marriage,  or 
to  such  Mussulmans  or  Hindoos  as  of  their  own  accord,  and 
prompted  by  curiosity,  or  a better  motive,  have  come  to  their 
schools  or  churches,  or  invited  them  to  their  houses.  The  num- 
ber of  these  inquirers  after  truth  is,  I understand,  even  now  not 
inconsiderable,  and  increasing  daily.  But  I must  say,  that  of 
actual  converts,  except  soldiers’  wives,  I have  met  with  very  few, 
and  these  have  been  all,  1 think,  made  by  the  Archdeacon. 

The  custom  of  street-preaching,  of  which  the  Baptist  and 
other  dissenting  missionaries  in  Bengal  are  very  fond,  has  never 
been  resorted  to  by  those  employed  by  the  Church  Missionary 
Society,  and  never  shall  be  as  long  as  1 have  any  influence  or 
authority  over  them.  I plainly  see  it  is  not  necessary,  and  I see 
no  less  plainly,  that,  though  it  may  be  safe  among  the  timid  Ben- 
galees, it  would  be  very  likely  to  produce  mischief  here.  All 
which  the  missionaries  do,  is  to  teach  schools,  to  read  prayers, 
and  preach  in  their  churches,  and  to  visit  the  houses  of  such  per- 
sons as  wish  for  information  on  religious  subjects.  Poor  Amrut 
Row,  the  charitable  Ex-Peishwa,  (whose  ashes  I saw  yet  smoking 
on  Ali  Bhaee’s  Ghat  as  I passed  it,)  was,  I find,  one  of  these 


BENARES. 


259 


inquirers.  Mr.  Morris,  the  missionary,  had  received  a message 
with  his  highness’s  compliments,  desiring  him  to  call  on  him  the 
middle  of  the  week,  as  he  was  anxious  to  obtain  a further  know- 
ledge of  Christianity  !”  It  is  distressing  to  think  that  this  mes- 
sage was  deferred  so  long,  and  that,  short  as  the  interval  which 
he  had  calculated  on  was,  his  own  time  was  shorter  still.  Yet 
surely  one  may  hope  for  such  a man  that  his  knowledge  and  faith 
may  have  been  greater  than  the  world  supposed,  and  that,  at  all 
events,  the  feeling  which  made  him,  thus  late  in  life,  desirous  to 
hear  the  truth,  would  not  be  lost  on  Him  whose  grace  may  he 
supposed  to  have  first  prompted  it. 

I received  a visit  from  the  Raja  of  Benares,  a middle  aged 
man,  very  corpulent,  with  more  approach  to  colour  in  his  cheeks 
than  is  usually  seen  in  Asiatics,  and  a countenance  and  appear- 
ance not  unlike  an  English  farmer.  My  few  complimentary 
phrases  in  Persian  being  soon  at  an  end,  Mr.  Brooke  interpreted 
for  me,  and  I found  my  visiter  very  ready  to  converse  about  the 
antiquities  of  his  city,  the  origin  of  its  name,  which  he  said  had 
anciently  been  Baranas,  from  two  rivers,  Bara  and  Nasa,  which 
here  fall  into  the  Ganges,  (I  suppose  under  ground,  for  no  such 
are  set  down  on  the  map,)  and  other  similar  topics.  I regretted 
to  learn,  after  he  was  gone,  that  he  resided  at  some  distance  from 
the  city  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  and  where  I had  no  chance 
of  returning  his  call;  but  I was  told  that  he  expected  no  such 
compliment,  though  he  would  be  pleased  to  learn  that  1 had  wish- 
ed to  pay  it  him.  The  Maharaja’s  equipage  was  not  by  any 
means  a splendid  one ; he  had  silver  sticks,  however,  behind  his 
carriage,  and  the  usual  show  of  spears  preceding  it,  but  no  troop- 
ers that  I saw.  He  is  rich,  notwithstanding,  and  the  circumstances 
of  his  family  have  materially  improved  since  the  conquest  of  Be- 
nares by  the  English  from  the  Mussulmans. 

September  8. — 1 this  morning  went  to  some  of  the  points  in  the 
city  which  I was  most  anxious  to  fix  in  my  memory,  which  had 
indeed  been  a little  confused  by  the  multitude  of  objects  which  I 
saw  yesterday.  I rode  a very  pretty  but  hot  and  obstinate  Java 
pony.  These  ponies  bear  a high  price  in  India,  and  deserve  it, 
as,  though  little  creatures,  they  are  beautiful,  lively,  and  very 
strong  and  hardy.  I am  told  1 was  wrong  in  not  bringing  up  my 
Arab,  since  I shall  find  a good  horse  absolutely  necessary  for  my 
journey  overland,  and  really  good  ones  are  very  dear  and  difficult 
to  procure.  A Turkoman  horse,  if  I can  obtain  one,  is  said  to 
be  the  best  for  my  purpose,  since,  though  not  very  fleet  nor  hand- 
some, they  are  strong,  sure-footed,  good-tempered,  and,  when  not 
too  much  hurried,  never  tire.  The  horses  of  the  Dooab  and 
Rajpootana  have  been  lately  a good  deal  improved  by  an  inter- 
mixture of  English  blood,  and  are  generally  tall  and  handsome, 


260 


BENARES. 


but  are  dear,  and  often  very  vicious,  and  on  the  whole  better 
adapted  for  a hunt  or  a battle,  than  the  patient  and  continued 
exertions  of  a long  march. 

Nothing  remarkable  occurred  during  my  ride  in  Benares  this 
morning,  except  the  conduct  of  a little  boy,  a student  in  the 
Vidalaya,  who  ran  after  me  in  the  street,  and  with  hands  joined, 
said  that  1 “ had  not  heard  him  his  lesson  yesterday,  but  he  could 
sing  it  very  well  to-day  if  I would  let  him.”  I accordingly  stopped 
my  horse,  and  sate  with  great  patience  while  he  chanted  a long 
stave  of  Sanscrit.  I repeated  at  proper  pauses,  “ good,  good,” 
which  satisfied  him  so  much,  that  when  he  had  finished,  he  called 
out  “ again,”  and  was  beginning  a second  stave  when  I dis- 
missed him  with  a present,  on  which  he  fumbled  in  his  mantle  for 
some  red  flowers,  which  he  gave  me,  and  ran  by  my  side,  still 
talking  on  till  the  crowd  separated  us.  While  he  was  speaking 
or  singing,  for  I hardly  know  which  to  call  it,  the  people  round 
applauded  him  very  much;  and  from  the  way  in  which  they 
seemed  to  apply  the  verses  to  me,  I suspect  that  it  was  a compli- 
mentary address  which  he  had  been  instructed  to  deliver  the  day 
before,  but  had  missed  his  opportunity.  If  so,  I am  glad  he  did 
not  lose  his  labour ; but  the  few  words,  which,  from  their  occur- 
rence in  Hindoostanee,  I understood,  did  not  at  all  help  me  to  his 
meaning. 

This  evening  I dined  with  Mr.  Sands,  one  of  the  circuit  judges, 
at  whose  house  1 had  the  pleasure  to  find  Mr.  Melville,  who  had 
just  arrived  from  Ghazeepoor.  He  and  Mr.  Macleod  offered  again 
to  take  me  to  Benares,  which,  as  they  said,  1 had  only  half  seen. 
I was,  however,  thoroughly  tired  with  the  days  of  bustle  I had 
gone  through.  On  Sunday  I had  three  services,  on  Monday  one, 
the  consecration  of  the  burial  ground,  besides  the  school-examina- 
tion. On  Tuesday  1 had  been  sight-seeing  from  five  till  nearly 
ten  o’clock ; to-day  I was  out  an  almost  equal  time,  similarly 
employed,  besides  a regular  evening  drive,  and  receiving  and 
paying  visits,  while  all  the  intervals  between  these  engagements 
were  occupied  with  reading  and  answering  a large  mass  of  papers 
from  Bishop’s  College,  Madras,  and  Calcutta.  I therefore  begged 
leave  to  postpone  my  further  researches  till  my  next  visit.  To 
see  it  as  it  deserves,  indeed,  Benares  would  require  a fortnight. 

My  boats  arrived  this  morning  off  the  mouth  of  the  small 
river  which  leads  to  Secrole,  but  as  the  state  of  the  weather  was 
such  as  to  make  it  probable  it  would  soon  be  almost  dry,  they 
were  sent  on  to  Rajaghat,  and  thence  proceeded  directly  to 
Chunar,  whither  I was  advised  to  go  myself  by  land.  The 
weather  has  indeed  been  such  as  is  very  seldom  experienced  at 
this  time  of  year,  and  such  as  threatens  to  be  very  unfortunate,  not 


BENARES. 


261 


only  for  my  voyage,  but  for  the  country.  No  rain  has  fallen  for 
many  days ; the  wind  has  blown  steadily  and  very  hot  from  the 
west,  and  everything  foretells  a speedy  termination  of  the  “bursat,” 
or  rainy  season.  In  consequence  I shall  have  a very  laborious  and 
slow  tracking  on  the  river,  and  what  is  much  worse,  the  tanks 
are  barely  half  full,  the  country  but  imperfectly  irrigated,  and 
famine,  murrain,  and  all  their  attendant  horrors,  may  be  looked 
for.  God  avert  such  calamities  from  this  poor  country ! 


262 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

BENARES  TO  ALLAHABAD. 

CHUNAR INTENSE  HEAT ^TRIMEUK-JEE HINDOO  TEMPLE CONFIR- 
MATION  INVALIDS DEPARTURE  FROM  CHUNAR LARGE  FISH 

RETROSPECT  OF  BENARES QUARREL  BETWEEN  HINDOOS  AND  MUS- 
SULMANS  SITTING  DHURNA NATIVES’  OPINIONS  OF  ENGLISH  GO- 
VERNORS  ALLAHABAD FORT JUMNA  MUSJEED~CONFIRMATION 

PREPARATIONS  FOR  MARCHING FESTIVAL  OF  RAMA  AND  SEETA. 

September  10. — The  events  of  yesterday  are  not  worth  record- 
ing. Mr.  Macleod  had  promised  to  drive  me  in  his  gig  half  way 
to  Sultanpoor,  and  at  five  o’clock  this  morning  he  was  at  my  door. 
My  palanquin  had  been  sent  on  before,  so  that  I had  the  advan- 
tage of  making  a quicker  progress,  as  well  as  of  enjoying  his 
interesting  conversation  for  about  seven  miles,  when  the  carriage 
road  ended  in  a little  nullah,  where  we  found  the  palanquin 
waiting  for  me,  in  which  I proceeded  to  Sultanpoor,  where  I found 
a boat  in  readiness  to  convey  me  to  Chunar,  at  which  place  1 was 
to  be  Colonel  Alexander’s  guest. 

The  view  of  Chunar  is,  from  the  river,  very  striking.  Its 
fortress,  which  is  of  great  extent,  formerly  of  first-rate  importance, 
and  still  in  good  repair,  covers  the  crest  and  sides  of  a large  and 
high  rock,  with  several  successive  enclosures  of  walls  and  towers, 
the  lowest  of  which  have  their  base  washed  by  the  Ganges,  On 
the  right,  as  we  approached  it,  is  seen  a range  of  rocky  and 
uneven  hills,  on  the  left  a large  Indian  town,  intermingled  with 
fine  round  headed  trees,  with  some  very  good  European  habita- 
tions, and  a tall  gothic  tower  like  that  of  a parish  church  in 
England,  which  belongs  in  fact  to  the  Mission  Church,  and  is  an 
imitation  of  that  in  Mr.  Corrie’s  native  village.  The  whole  scene 
is  entirely  English;  the  mosques  and  muts  are  none  of  them 
visible  in  this  quarter ; the  native  houses,  with  their  white  walls 
and  red  tiled  roofs,  look  exactly  like  those  of  a small  English  coun- 
try town  ; the  castle  with  its  union  flag  is  such  as  would  be  greatly 
admired,  but  not  at  all  out  of  place,  in  any  ancient  English  sea- 
port ; and  much  as  I admire  palm-trees,  I felt  glad  that  they  were 
not  very  common  in  this  neighbourhood,  and  that  there  were  in 
point  of  fact  none  visible,  to  spoil  the  home  character  of  the 
prospect.  But  such  a sun,  thank  heaven  ! never  glared  on  Eng- 
land as  this  day  rained  its  lightnings  on  Chunar,  I thought 


CHUNAR. 


263 


myself  fortunate  in  getting  housed  by  ten  o’clock,  and  before  the 
worst  came  on,  but  it  was  still  enough  to  sicken  one.  There  was 
little  wind,  and  what  there  was  was  hot,  and  the  reflection  and 
glare  of  the  light  gray  rock,  the  light  gray  castle,  the  light  gray 
sand,  the  white  houses,  and  the  hot  bright  river  were  about  as  much 
as  I could  endure.  Y et,  I trust,  it  is  not  a little  that  overpowers 
me.  Breakfast,  however,  at  Colonel  Alexander’s,  and  a good 
draught  of  cold  water,  set  me  quite  up  again,  and  I was  occupied 
the  rest  of  the  morning  in  obtaining  details  of  the  schools  and 
mission  from  Mr.  Greenwood  and  Mr.  Bowley.  We  dined  with 
Colonel  Robertson,  the  commandant  of  the  fortress  and  station, 
and  met  a very  large  party,  including  among  others  Sir  G.  Mar- 
tindell,  the  general  in  command  at  Cawnpoor ; he  is  a fine,  mild, 
unaffected  old  officer,  with  an  experience  of  India,  and  particularly 
the  upper  provinces,  scarcely  shorter  than  Mr.  Brooke’s,  and  per- 
haps more  various  and  extensive. 

In  the  evening  Colonel  Alexander  drove  me  in  a gig  a little 
way  into  the  country,  which  is  really  pretty.  The  European 
dwellings  are  all  on  the  side  of  a steep  slope,  covered  with  wood 
and  gardens,  with  their  drawing-room  verandahs  opening  for  the 
most  part  on  a raised  terrace.  Behind,  and  rising  still  higher  up 
the  slope,  is  the  native  town,  the  houses  all  of  stone  and  mostly 
of  two  stories,  generally  with  verandahs  in  front  let  out  into 
shops,  the  whole  not  unlike  a Welch  market-town,  but  much 
larger,  and  probably  containing  15,000  people.  Beyond  is  an 
open  country,  intersected  by  a broad  nullah,  with  a handsome 
gothic  bridge,  and  beyond  this  an  open  extent  of  rocky  and 
woody  country,  which  is  a good  deal  infested  by  wolves  and  bears, 
but  seldom  visited  by  a tiger.  The  bears  rarely  do  any  harm 
unless  they  are  first  attacked.  The  wolves  are  apparently  more 
daring  and  impudent  than  in  Russia ; they  are  said  frequently  to 
come  to  the  houses  and  sheepfolds,  and  sometimes  even  attack  and 
carry  off  children.  The  inhabitants  of  Chunar  will  not  admit  that 
it  deserves  the  character  which  it  usually  bears,  of  excessive  heat, 
but  if  this  day  and  night  were  a fair  specimen,  I have  certainly 
felt  nothing  to  equal  it.  It  happily  grew  cooler  towards  morning, 
and  I got  a few  hours  good  sleep,  which  I much  needed. 

September  11. — This  morning  Colonel  Robertson  called  to 
take  me  to  see  the  fort,  which  well  repays  the  labour,  though 
this  is  not  trifling.  The  site  and  outline  are  very  noble;  the  rock 
on  which  it  stands  is  perfectly  insulated,  and  either  naturally  or 
by  art,  bordered  on  every  side  by  a very  awful  precipice,  flanked, 
wherever  it  has  been  possible  to  obtain  a salient  angle,  with 
towers,  bartizans,  and  bastions  of  various  forms  and  sizes.  There 
are  a good  many  cannon  mounted,  and  a noble  bomb-proof  maga- 
zine for  powder,  which  has  been  lately  in  a great  measure  stripped 


264 


TRIMBUK-JEE. 


for  the  supply  of  the  Birman  war.  Colonel  Robertson,  however, 
told  me,  that  the  ammunition  on  which  he  should  most  depend 
for  the  defence  of  Chunar  are  stone  cylinders,  rudely  made,  and 
pretty  much  like  garden-rollers,  which  are  piled  up  in  great 
numbers  throughout  the  interior  of  the  fort,  and  for  which  the 
rock  on  which  the  fort  stands  affords  an  inexhaustible  quarry. 
These,  which  are  called  “mutwalas”  (drunkards),  from  their 
staggering  motion,  are  rolled  over  the  parapet  down  the  steep 
face  of  the  hill,  to  impede  the  advances  and  overwhelm  the  ranks 
of  an  assaulting  army ; and  when  a place  has  not  been  regularly 
breached,  or  where,  as  at  Chunar,  the  scarped  and  sloping  rock 
itself  serves  as  a rampart,  few  troops  will  so  much  as  face  them. 
Against  a native  army.  Colonel  Robertson  said,  Chunar,  if  reso- 
lutely defended,  would,  he  thought,  be  impregnable,  and  except 
in  one  quarter  it  would  stand  no  contemptible  siege  against  an 
European  force.  Even  there  the  rock  which  commands  it  might 
easily  be  so  much  lowered  as  to  prevent  any  danger ; and  the 
stone  of  which  it  consists  is  so  valuable,  that  the  neighbouring 
Zemindars  had  offered  to  cart  it  away  at  their  own  expense, 
provided  Government  would  give  up  the  duty  now  laid  on  Chunar- 
stone  when  transported  to  different  parts  of  India ; but  the  offer 
was  declined. 

On  the  top  of  the  rock  of  Chunar,  and  within  the  rampart,  is 
a considerable  space,  covered  with  remarkably  fine  English  hay- 
grass,  now  nearly  ripe  for  cutting,  several  noble  spreading  trees, 
and  some  excellent  houses  for  the  officers,  few  of  whom,  however, 
when  not  on  duty,  remain  here,  the  reflection  of  the  sun  from  the 
rock  being  very  powerful,  and  the  expense  of  bringing  water 
for  the  Tatties  great.  Within  this  principal  circle,  and  on  a 
still  higher  point,  are  two  inner  fortifications,  one  containing  the 
Governor’s  house,  the  hospital,  and  the  state-prison,  now  inhabit- 
ed by  the  celebrated  Maharatta  chieftain  Trimbuk-jee,  long  the 
inveterate  enemy  of  the  British  power,  and  the  fomentor  of  all 
the  troubles  of  Berar,  Malw^ah,  and  the  Deccan.  He  is  confined 
with  great  strictness,  having  an  European  as  well  as  a sepoy 
guard,  and  never  being  trusted  out  of  the  sight  of  the  sentries. 
Even  his  bed-chamber  has  three  grated  windows  open  into  the 
verandah  which  serves  as  guard-room.  In  other  respects  he  is 
well  treated,  has  two  large  and  very  airy  apartments,  a small 
building  fitted  up  as  a pagoda,  and  a little  garden  shaded  with  a 
peepul-tree,  which  he  has  planted  very  prettily  with  balsams  and 
other  flowers.  Four  of  his  own  servants  are  allowed  to  attend 
him,  but  they  are  always  searched  before  they  quit  or  return  to 
the  fort,  and  must  be  always  there  at  night.  He  is  a little,  lively, 
irritable-looking  man,  dressed,  when  1 saw  him,  in  a dirty  cotton 
mantle,  with  a broad  red  border,  thrown  carelessly  over  his  head 


CHUNAR  FORT. 


265 


and  shoulders.  I was  introduced  to  him  by  Colonel  Alexander, 
and  he  received  me  courteously,  observing  that  he  himself  was  a 
brahmin,  and  in  token  of  his  brotherly  regard,  plucking  some  of 
his  prettiest  flowers  for  me.  He  then  showed  me  his  garden  and 
pagoda,  and  after  a few  common-place  expressions  of  the  plea- 
sure I felt  in  seeing  so  celebrated  a warrior,  which  he  answered 
by  saying,  with  a laugh,  he  should  have  been  glad  to  make  my 
acquaintance  elsewhere^  I made  my  bow  and  took  leave.  He  has 
been  now,  1 believe,  five  years  in  prison,  and  seems  likely  to 
remain  there  during  life,  or  till  the  death  of  his  patron  and  tool, 
Bajee  Row,  may  lessen  his  power  of  doing  mischief.  He  has 
often  offered  to  give  security  to  any  amount  for  his  good  be- 
haviour, and  to  become  a warmer  friend  to  the  Company  than 
he  has  ever  been  their  enemy,  but  his  applications  have  been 
vain.  He  attributes,  I understand,  their  failure  to  Mr.  Elphin- 
stone,  the  governor  of  Bombay,  who  is,  he  says,  “ his  best  friend, 
and  his  worst  enemy,”  the  faithful  trustee  of  his  estate,  treating 
his  children  with  parental  kindness,  and  interesting  himself,  in 
the  first  instance,  to  save  his  life,  but  resolutely  fixed  on  keeping 
him  in  prison,  and  urging  the  Supreme  Court  to  distrust  all  his 
protestations.  His  life  must  now  be  dismally  monotonous  and 
wearisome.  Though  a brahmin  of  high  caste,  and  so  long  a 
minister  of  state  and  the  commander  of  armies,  he  can  neither 
write  nor  read,  and  his  whole  amusement  consists  in  the  ceremo- 
nies of  his  idolatry,  his  garden,  and  the  gossip  which  his  servants 
pick  up  for  him  in  the  town  of  Chunar.  Avarice  seems  at  present 
his  ruling  passion.  He  is  a very  severe  inspector  of  his  weekly 
accounts,  and  one  day  set  the  whole  garrison  in  an  uproar  about 
some  ghee  which  he  accused  his  khansaman  of  embezzling ; in 
short,  he  seems  less  interested  with  the  favourable  reports  which 
he  from  time  to  time  receives  of  his  family,  than  with  the  banking 
accounts  by  which  they  are  accompanied.  Much  as  he  is  said 
to  deserve  his  fate,  as  a murderer,  extortioner,  and  a grossly 
perjured  man,  1 hope  I may  be  allowed  to  pity  him. 

In  the  last  enclosure  of  the  fortress,  on  the  very  summit  of  the 
mountain,  and  calculated  to  make  a defence  even  after  all  the 
lower  works  had  fallen,  are  several  very  interesting  buildings. 
One  of  them  is  the  old  Hindoo  palace,  a central  dome  surrounded 
by  several  vaulted  apartments,  with  many  remains  of  painting 
and  carving,  but  dark,  low,  and  impervious  to  heat ; on  one  side 
of  this  is  a loftier  and  more  airy  building,  now  used  as  an  ar- 
moury, but  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Mussulman  governor, 
with  handsome  rooms,  and  beautifully  carved  oriel  windows, 
such  as  one  reads  of  in  Mrs.  RadclifFe’s  castles.  A little  further 
on  in  the  bastion  is  an  extraordinary  well  or  reservoir,  about 
fifteen  feet  in  diameter,  and  cut  to  a great  depth  in  the  solid  rock, 

VoL.  I. — 34 


266 


CONFIRMATION. 


but  the  water  of  which  is  not  sufficiently  good  to  be  used,  except 
in  case  of  necessity.  In  front  of  the  Hindoo  palace,  in  the  pave- 
ment of  the  court,  are  seen  four  small  round  holes,  just  large 
enough  for  a man  to  pass  through,  below  which  is  the  state  prison 
of  ancient  times.  Well  is  it  for  Trimbuk-jee  that  his  lot  is  thrown 
in  better  days  ! This  is  a horrible  dungeon  indeed,  with  neither 
light,  air,  nor  access,  except  what  these  apertures  supply  to  a 
space  of  forty  feet  square.  It  is  now  used  as  a cellar.  But  the 
greatest  curiosity  of  all  remains  to  be  described.  Colonel  Ro- 
bertson called  for  a key,  and  unlocking  a rusty  iron  door  in  a 
very  rugged  and  ancient  wall,  said  he  would  show  me  the  most 
holy  place  in  all  India.  Taking  off  his  hat,  he  led  the  way  into 
a small  square  court,  overshadowed  by  a very  old  peepul-tree, 
which  grew  from  the  rock  on  one  side,  and  from  one  of  the 
branches  of  which  hung  a small  silver  bell.  Under  it  was  a large 
slab  of  black  marble,  and  opposite  on  the  walls,  a rudely  carved 
rose  enclosed  in  a triangle.  No  image  was  visible,  but  some 
sepoys  who  followed  us  in,  fell  on  their  knees,  kissed  the  dust  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  stone,  and  rubbed  their  foreheads  with 
it.  On  this  stone.  Colonel  Alexander  said,  the  Hindoos  all  believe 
that  the  Almighty  is  seated,  personally,  though  invisibly,  for  nine 
hours  every  day,  removing  during  the  other  three  hours  to  Be- 
nares. On  this  account  the  sepoys  apprehend  that  Chunar  can 
never  be  taken  by  an  enemy,  except  between  the  hours  of  six 
and  nine  in  the  morning,  and  for  the  same  reason,  and  in  order 
by  this  sacred  neighbourhood  to  be  out  of  all  danger  of  witch- 
craft, the  kings  of  Benares,  before  the  Mussulman  conquest,  had 
all  the  marriages  of  their  family  celebrated  in  the  adjoining  pa- 
lace. I own  I felt  some  little  emotion  in  standing  on  this  mimic 
mount  Calasay.  I was  struck  with  the  absence  of  idols,  and  with 
the  feeling  of  propriety  which  made  even  a Hindoo  reject  exter- 
nal symbols  in  the  supposed  actual  presence  of  the  Deity,  and  I 
prayed  inwardly  that  God  would  always  preserve  in  my  mind, 
and  in  his  own  good  time  instruct  these  poor  people,  in  what 
manner,  and  how  truly  he  is  indeed  present  both  here  and  every 
where. 

We  now  went  back  to  Colonel  Alexander’s,  and  thence  to 
church,  where  I had  the  satisfaction  of  confirming  nearly  one 
hundred  persons,  fifty-seven  of  whom  were  natives,  chiefly,  as  at 
Benares,  soldiers’  wives  and  widows,  but  all  unacquainted  with 
the  English  language,  and  perfectly  Oriental  in  their  dress  and 
habits.  They  were  most  deeply  impressed  with  the  ceremony, 
bowing  down  to  the  very  pavement  when  I laid  my  hand  on  their 
heads,  and  making  the  responses  in  a deep  solemn  tone  of  emo- 
tion which  was  extremely  touching.  The  elder  women,  and  all 
the  few  men  who  offered  themselves,  had  been  Mr.  Corrie’s 


MUSSULMAN  WORSHIPPERS. 


26? 


converts  during  his  residence  here  ; the  younger  females  had  been 
added  to  the  Church,  either  from  Hindooism,  Mohammedanism, 
or  Popery,  by  Mr.  Bowley.  Of  the  last  there  were  not  many, 
but  strange  to  tell,  they  were,  he  said,  as  ignorant  in  the  first 
instance  of  the  commonest  truths  of  Christianity  as  the  Hindoos. 
After  dinner  to-day.  Colonel  Alexander  drove  me  to  a beautiful 
place  about  three  miles  from  Chunar,  a garden  of  palm  and  other 
fruit-trees,  containing  a mosque,  and  a very  large  and  beautiful 
tomb  of  a certain  Shekh  Kaseem  Soliman  and  his  son.  Of  their 
history  I could  learn  nothing  further  than  that  they  were  very 
holy  men,  who  died  here  when  on  a pilgrimage,  and  that  their 
tombs,  and  the  accompanying  mosque,  were  built  and  endowed 
by  one  of  the  emperors  of  Delhi.  The  buildings  and  the  grove 
in  which  they  stand  are  very  solemn  and  striking,  and  the  carving 
of  the  principal  gateway,  and  of  the  stone  lattice  with  which  the 
garden  is  enclosed,  is  more  like  embroidery  than  the  work  of  the 
chisel.  A party  of  Mussulmans  were  at  their  evening  prayers  on 
one  of  the  stone  terraces,  all,  as  usual,  decent,  devout,  and  earnest. 
Colonel  Alexander  expressed  a regret  that  Christians  fell  short  of 
them  in  these  particulars.  I answered  at  the  moment,  that  per- 
haps in  proportion  to  the  spirituality  of  our  religion,  we  were  too 
apt  to  neglect  its  outward  forms.  But  on  consideration,  I am  not 
sure  that  the  imputation,  which  1 have  heard  before,  is  just,  or  that 
Mussulmans  when  in  the  act  of  prayer  are  really  more  externally 
decorous  than  the  majority  of  Christians.  We  are  all  much  im- 
pressed with  religious  ceremonies  to  which  we  are  not  accustomed, 
and  while  as  passing  and  casual  spectators  of  a worship  carried  on 
by  persons,  in  scene  and  dress,  words  and  posture,  all  different 
from  our  own,  but  all  picturesque  and  striking,  we  may  easily 
overlook  those  less  conspicuous  instances  of  listlessness  or  inat- 
tention, which  would  not  fail  to  attract  our  notice  where  the 
matter  and  manner  are  both  familiar.  1 am  sure  that  the  Heathens 
and  Mussulmans,  and  there  were  many  of  them,  who  looked  in  on 
our  congregation  this  morning,  had  no  fault  to  find  with  the  decency 
and  external  abstraction  either  of  the  native  or  European  wor- 
shippers. The  night  was  intensely  hot,  but  1,  and  by  my  advice. 
Colonel  Alexander,  passed  it  in  very  tolerable  comfort,  by  sleep- 
ing on  a couch  in  an  open  verandah. 

September  12. — This  morning  I had  the  agreeable  surprise  to 
find  that  Messrs.  Macleod  and  Frazer  had  come  over  from  Benares 
during  the  night.  We  went  to  church  together,  where  1 also 
found  Mr.  Morris.  1 had  consequently  four  clergymen  with  me, 
besides  the  Catechists  Bowley  and  Adlington, — a more  numerous 
body  than  could,  thirty  years  ago,  have  been  mustered  in  the 
whole  Presidency  of  Fort  William.  The  congregation,  too,  was 
more  numerous  than  1 have  seen  out  of  Calcutta.  The  invalids 


268 


SACRAMENT. 


of  the  garrison  who  attended,  amounted  to  above  two  hundred 
Europeans,  besides  the  officers  and  civil  servants  and  their  families, 
and  I should  think  one  hundred  natives.  About  one  hundred  and 
thirty  staid  the  Sacrament,  of  which  the  natives  amounted  to 
nearly  seventy,  and  I was  led  to  observe  that  the  women  of  their 
number  who  had  been  Mussulmans,  pertinaciously  kept  their 
veils  down,  and  even  received  the  bread  on  a corner  of  the  muslin, 
rather  than  expose  the  bare  hand.  One  of  the  others,  a very 
young  woman,  who  had  been  confirmed  the  day  before,  instead 
of  extending  the  hand,  threw  back  her  veil,  and  opened  her 
mouth,  by  which  I guessed  she  had  been  brought  up  a Roman 
Catholic.  All  were  very  devout  and  attentive, — some  shed  tears, 
and  the  manner  in  which  they  pronounced  “ Ameen”  was  very 
solemn  and  touching.  The  Hindoostanee  prayers  read  extremely 
well,  but  they  are  so  full  of  Arabic  and  Persian  words,  that  those 
converts  who  have  not  been  Mussulmans  must,  I fear,  find  some 
difficulty  in  understanding  them. 

After  dinner  we  again  attended  church,  first  for  Hindoostanee 
prayer,  afterwards  for  the  usual  English  service.  The  former  was 
attended  by  1 should  suppose  two  hundred  persons,  many  of 
whom,  however,  were  Heathens  and  Mussulmans,  who  distin- 
guished themselves  by  keeping  their  turbans  on.  Mr.  Morris 
read  the  prayers,  omitting  the  Psalms  and  the  First  Lesson, 
neither  of  which,  unfortunately,  are  as  yet  translated  into  Hin- 
doostanee, though  the  latter  is  in  progress,  and  Mr.  Bowley 
preached  a very  useful  and  sensible  sermon.  He  speaks  Hindoos- 
tanee with  the  fluency  of  a native,  and  I was  pleased  to  find  that 
I could  follow  the  argument  of  his  sermon  with  far  more  ease  than 
I expected. 

Chunar,  or  “ Chunar-Gurh,”  that  is  Chunar  Castle,  used  to  he 
of  great  importance  as  a military  post  before  the  vast  extension 
of  the  British  frontier  westward.  It  is  one  of  the  principal  sta- 
tions for  such  invalids  as  are  still  equal  to  garrison  duty  ; and  on 
them  at  the  present  moment,  owing  to  the  low  state  of  the  Com- 
pany’s army,  and  the  demand  for  men  in  the  east,  all  the  duty  of 
Chunar  depends,  which,  from  their  health,  they  are  barely  equal 
to,  though  they  arc,  Europeans  and  sepoys  together,  above  a 
thousand  men.  The  sepoy  invalids  have  mostly  grown  old  in 
the  service,  and  are  weather-beaten  fellows,  with  no  other  injury 
than  what  time  has  inflicted.  Some  of  the  Europeans  are  very 
old  likewise ; there  is  one  who  fought  with  Clive,  and  has  still  no 
infirmity  but  deafness  and  dim  sight.  The  majority,  however, 
are  men  still  hardly  advanced  beyond  youth,  early  victims  of  a 
devouring  climate,  assisted,  perhaps,  by  carelessness  and  intem- 
perance ; and  it  was  a pitiable  spectacle  to  see  the  white  emaciated 
hands  thrust  out  under  a soldier’s  sleeve  to  receive  the  sacrament, 


INVALIDS. 


269 


and  the  pale  cheeks,  and  tall  languid  figures  of  men,  who,  if  they 
had  remained  in  Europe,  would  have  been  still  overflowing  with 
youthful  vigour  and  vivacity,  the  best  ploughmen,  the  strongest 
wrestlers,  and  the  merriest  dancers  of  the  village.  The  invalids 
of  Chunar  have  borne  a very  bad  character  for  their  profligacy 
and  want  of  discipline ; but  Colonel  Alexander  says  that  he  never 
commanded  men  who,  on  the  whole,  gave  him  less  trouble,  and 
a favourable  character  is  given  of  many  by  the  Missionary,  Mr. 
Greenwood.  I should  judge  well  of  them  from  their  attendance 
in  church,  and  the  remarkable  seriousness  of  their  deportment 
while  there.'^ 

September  13. — This  morning  1 went  again  with  Colonel 
Alexander  and  my  two  friends  from  Benares,  to  see  the  tomb  of 
Shekh  Soliman,t  and  after  breakfast  I went  on  board,  taking 

* During  the  Bishop’s  stay  at  Chunar,  a memorial  was  addressed  to  him 
through  Colonel  Robertson,  commandant  of  the  garrison,  by  the  gentlemen  who 
compose  the  committee  for  the  care  of  the  Church  and  the  Mission  premises, 
expressing  a hope  that  Government  would  allow  a small  monthly  sum  to  assist 
in  preserving  a building  which  had  been  erected,  and  hitherto  maintained,  with- 
out any  assistance  from  Government.  To  this  memorial,  the  Bishop  returned 
the  following  answer  from  Allahabad  to  Colonel  Robertson. 

“ I have  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  obliging  letter,  as  well  as  the  very 
interesting  and  important  memorial  contained  in  it.  In  answer  to  both,  I beg 
leave  to  say,  that  among  the  many  circumstances  which  rendered  my  visit  to 
Chunar  an  agreeable  one,  a principal  was  the  pleasure  I derived  from  witnessing 
the  dimensions,  the  solidity,  and  good  taste  of  the  church,  as  well  as  the  highly 
creditable  manner  in  which  divine  service  was  performed,  and  the  numerous, 
orderly,  and  devout  attendance  of  the  Europeans  of  your  garrison,  as  well  as 
their  native  wives  and  widows.  I feel,  therefore,  no  less  forcibly  than  the 
gentlemen  of  the  church  committee  themselves,  an  anxiety,  that  so  striking  a 
proof  of  the  piety  and  liberality  of  individuals  at  the  station,  should  not  be 
suffered  to  fall  to  decay  through  a want  of  the  fostering  hand  of  Government ; 
and  that  the  gallant  men  who  have  spent  their  health  and  strength  in  their 
country’s  cause,  should  not  be  deprived,  in  their  age  and  infirmities,  of  the 
comforts  which  the  ordinances  of  religion  are  only  able  to  supply.  I beg  you, 
therefore,  to  believe  that  the  objects  of  your  application,  so  far  as  I apprehend 
them  to  be  compatible  with  some  general  measures  to  the  same  good  end,  which 
I have  reason  to  anticipate  from  the  care  of  Government,  shall  not  want  my 
best  recommendation,  or  my  earnest  wishes  for  their  success  with  a Government, 
which,  I willingly  bear  them  witness,  to  the  extent  of  the  means  entrusted  to 
them,  have  always  shown  themselves  anxious  for  the  encouragement  and  support 
of  such  feelings  and  such  conduct  as  I witnessed  in  the  veterans  of  Chunar. 

“May  I request  you  to  convey  to  the  gentlemen  of  the  church  committee, 
my  thanks  in  the  name  of  the  Church  of  England  and  religion  in  general,  for 
the  liberality  which  they  have  shown,  and  the  judgment  with  which  that  liberal 
expenditure  has  been  conducted ; and  to  accept,  at  the  same  time,  my  best  thanks 
for  all  the  kindness  with  which  you  have  personally  favoured  me?” 

“ (Signed)  REGINALD  CALCUTTA.”— Ed. 

t The  following  is  an  extract  of  a letter  from  Colonel  Alexander  to  tlie 
Editor,  dated  London,  13th  July,  1827  : — 

“ It  may,  at  a time  when  every  thing  relating  to  the  memory  of  such  a man 
is  precious,  be  interesting  to  you  to  hear,  that  during  the  few  days  the  revered 


270 


MIR2AP00R. 


leave  of  my  friends  with  a more  earnest  wish  to  meet  again  than 
travellers  can  often  hope  to  feel.  Nothing  occurred  this  day  or 
the  next  much  worth  recording.  We  made  a very  slow  progress 
with  the  tow-line,  under  a burning  sun,  and  without  wind.  The 
country  is  pretty,  but  the  river  falling  very  low,  with  great  bare 
banks  of  brown  earth  visible  on  each  side.  The  boatmen  all  cry 
out  that  there  will  be  famine  in  these  provinces,  though  in  Bengal, 
where  rice  is  the  staple  crop,  the  harvest  will  probably  be  a very 
fine  one,  the  danger  there  being  of  too  much,  rather  than  too 
little  water.  This  heat  brings  all  odious  insects  out  of  their 
lurking-places  ; I found  in  my  cabin  a large  scorpion,  not  like 
that  which  1 had  seen  before,  but  black  and  hairy,  and  two  more 
were  found  by  my  servants.  Near  Seidpoor  the  Corries’  boats 
were  attacked  by  a swarm  of  large  wasps  which  stung  every 
person  on  board ; it  is  a celebrated  place  for  sugar,  which  indeed 
seems  cultivated  to  a great  and  increasing  extent  in  all  this  part 
of  the  country.  At  most  of  the  ghats  leading  to  the  villages  I see 
large  rollers  of  Chunar-stone,  apparently  just  landed  from  boats, 
and  intended  to  crush  the  sugar-canes.  The  demand  must  be 
great  to  elicit  such  a supply. 

September  15. — We  passed  Mirzapoor,  the  size  and  apparent 
opulence  of  which  surprised  me,  as  it  is  a place  of  no  ancient 
importance  or  renown,  has  grown  up  completely  since  the  English 
power  has  been  established  here,  and  under  our  Government 
is  only  an  inferior  civil  station,  with  a few  native  troops.  It  is, 
however,  a very  great  town,  as  large,  I should  think,  as  Patna, 
with  many  handsome  native  houses,  and  a vast  number  of  mosques 
and  temples,  numerous  and  elegant  bungalows  in  its  outskirts  and 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, — a great  number  of  boats  of  all 
kinds  moored  under  its  ghats,  and  is  computed  to  contain  between 
2 and  300,000  people. 

This  is,  indeed,  a most  rich  and  striking  land.  Here,  in  the 
space  of  little  more  than  two  hundred  miles,  along  the  same 
river,  I have  passed  six  towns,  none  of  them  less  populous  than 
Chester, — two  (Patna  and  Mirzapoor)  more  so  than  Birming- 
ham ; and  one  (Benares)  more  peopled  than  any  city  in  Europe, 
except  London  and  Paris ! and  this  besides  villages  innumerable. 
I observed  to  Mr.  Corrie  that  I had  expected  to  find  agriculture 
in  Hindustan  in  a flourishing  state,  but  the  great  cities  ruined,  in 

Bishop  honoured  me  with  his  company  at  Chunar,  in  our  early  drive  one  morn- 
ing in  my  gig,  I pointed  out  to  him  a large  stone  idol,  of  curious  manufacture, 
which  had  just  been  sculptured,  and  was  nearly  ready  for  transmission  to 
Benares,  to  be  set  up  in  one  of  the  temples.  His  Lordship  descended  from  the 
gig,  and  surveyed  it  with  deep  attention,  but  said  little.  Those,  however, 
who  knew  him,  may  easily  imagine  what  were  the  workings  of  his  mind  at  the 
sight  of  such  an  object,  not  many  months  before  hewn  from  the  neighbouring 
quarry.” — Ed. 


JANGHUJRABAa 


2?1 


consequence  of  the  ruin  of  the  Mussulman  nobles.  He  answered^ 
that  certainly  very  many  ancient  families  had  gone  to  decay,  but 
he  did  not  think  the  gap  had  been  ever  perceptible  in  his  time, 
in  this  part  of  India,  since  it  had  been  more  than  filled  up  by  a 
new  order  rising  from  the  middling  classes,  whose  wealth  had, 
during  his  recollection,  increased  very  greatly.  F ar  indeed  from 
those  cities  which  we  had  already  passed  decaying,  most  of 
them  had  much  increased  in  the  number  of  their  houses,  and  in 
what  is  a sure  sign  of  wealth  in  India, — the  number  and  neatness 
of  their  ghats  and  temples,  since  he  was  last  here.  Nothing,  he 
said,  was  plainer  to  him,  from  the  multitude  of  little  improve- 
ments of  this  kind,  of  small  temples  and  bungalows,  partly  in  the 
European  style,  but  obviously  inhabited  by  natives,  that  wealth 
was  becoming  more  abundant  among  the  middling  ranks,  and  that 
such  of  them  as  are  rich  are  not  afraid  of  appearing  so.  The 
great  cities  in  the  Dooab,  he  said,  were  indeed  scenes  of  desolation. 
The  whole  country  round  Delhi  and  Agra,  when  he  first  saw  it, 
was  filled  with  the  marble  ruins  of  villas,  mosques,  and  palaces, 
with  the  fragments  of  tanks  and  canals,  and  the  vestiges  of  enclo- 
sures. But  this  ruin  had  occurred  before  the  British  arms  had 
extended  thus  far,  and  while  the  country  was  under  the  tyranny 
and  never-ending  invasions  of  the  Persians,  Affghans,  and  Maha- 
rattas.  Even  here  a great  improvement  had  taken  place  before 
he  left  Agra,  and  he  hoped  to  find  a much  greater  on  his  return. 
He  apprehended  that  on  the  whole,  all  India  had  gained  under 
British  rule,  except,  perhaps,  Dacca  and  its  neighbourhood,  where 
the  manufactures  had  been  nearly  ruined. 

We  slept  this  night  off  a village  called  Janghuirabad,  in  a pretty 
situation,  with  a grove  of  fine  round-topped  trees,  under  which  a 
large  pulwar  was  building.  Several  sugar-mill  rollers  were  on 
the  beach.  The  bank  was  very  high,  and  much  of  it  having  been 
recently  deserted  by  the  water,  the  smell  was  very  unpleasant. 
1 have  great  reason  to  be  thankful  that  under  this  tremendous 
,sun,  my  spirits  and  appetite  remain  as  good  as  usual. 

September  16. — We  passed  an  old  Gossain,  who  said  his  age 
was  104,  and  that  he  had  no  complaint  but  dimness  of  sight. 
He  told  me  that  the  last  ten  years  had  been  remarkable  for  an 
interruption,  and  frequently  an  entire  cessation  of  the  rains  in 
September,  which  he  never  remembered  before.  He  thought  it 
would  continue  two  years  longer,  “ for,”  says  he,  “ every  thing 
changes  once  in  twelve  years  for  good  or  bad  ; the  bad  is  nearly 
gone  now — the  good  will  come,  only  be  patient.” 

We  moored  at  night  near  a sand-bank  in  the  middle  of  the 
river,  in  company  with  several  other  vessels,  among  others  the 
fleet  of  General  Martindell,  but,  from  the  nature  of  our  quarters, 
with  little  facility  of  communication.  The  heat  had  continued 


272 


SUBSIDING  OF  THE  WATERS. 


intense  all  day,  but  about  midnight  the  wind  changed  to  the  east, 
and  was  refreshing  and  even  cold. 

September  1 7. — After  another  day’s  sailing  we  moored  under 
a high  precipitous  bank,  which,  like  all  those  we  now  see,  was 
worn  into  a regular  succession  of  steps,  following  all  the  wavy 
lines  of  its  face,  and  marking  the  gradual,  though,  in  the  present 
year,  most  rapid  subsiding  of  the  water.  The  uppermost  of  these 
was  at  least  thirty  feet  above  the  present  level  of  the  river,  and 
higher  still  the  usual  bank  or  sand-hill  arose  about  twenty  feet 
more.  I climbed  with  some  trouble  to  the  top  of  this  for  my 
twilight  walk,  taking  Abdullah  with  me.  After  passing  the  usual 
margin  of  high  jungle-grass,  with  its  beautiful  silky  tufts  hanging 
over  our  heads,  we  got  into  a field  of  Indian-corn  with  a pretty 
good  path  through  it,  but  no  other  appearance  of  a village,  and 
the  country,  so  far  as  the  imperfect  light  allowed  me  to  discover, 
more  wild  and  jungly  than  any  which  I had  passed  since  Sicligully. 
A brilliant  light,  however,  beamed  up  among  the  trees  at  some 
distance,  and  I walked  towards  it  in  the  idea  that  it  was  a cow- 
man’s cottage,  and  that  I might  get  some  milk,  the  goats  I had  on 
board  being  dry.  On  approaching  it,  however,  and  when  we  got 
within  about  one  hundred  yards,  it  suddenly  disappeared,  and  we 
found  neither  path  nor  village.  Abdullah  observed,  that  these 
people  could  have  been  about  no  good,  that  it  was  ‘‘  very  like  a 
jugglery  fire,  and  we  had  better  turn  back  again.”  I answered, 
that  I thought  they  were  more  like  thieves  than  jugglers,  to  which 
he  replied,  it  might  be  so,  for  a slip  of  country  near  us,  either  now 
was,  or  had  been  very  lately  under  the  Nawab  of  Oude,  and  was 
a mere  nest  of  thieves.  “ Well,”  said  I,  ‘‘  if  they  are  thieves,  it 
will  not  be  desirable  to  have  them  so  near  our  boats  to  night,  and 
we  will  at  least  go  up  to  the  place  where  the  fire  has  been.  As 
for  jugglery,  you  know  we  are  Christians,  and  the  devil  cannot 
hurt  us.”  I had  not,  indeed,  the  smallest  idea  that  there  was  risk, 
inasmuch  as  we  were  two  of  us,  and  my  boat  within  hail.  1 felt 
also  sure  that  a village  was  not  far  off,  or  at  least  a cowshed,  from 
a shepherd’s  pipe  which  I had  heard  in  that  direction  just  before 
we  came  to  shore.  I still  wondered  we  saw  nothing,  till  I came 
close  upon  a little  shed  of  straw,  out  of  which  a man  thrust  his 
head,  and  in  answer  to  my  question  of  “who’s  there?”  answered 
“ a watch.”  Abdullah  asked  him  why  he  had  put  out  his  light ; 
he  said  that  he  was  watching  his  cucumbers,  that  he  had  lighted 
a fire  to  keep  off  wild  beasts,  but  on  hearing  our  voices,  had  covered 
it  up  with  turf,  lest  its  light  should  attract  more  company  than  he 
desired  to  his  garden.  The  village,  he  said,  was  still  at  some 
distance,  and  with  the  little  light  which  remained,  we  should  not 
easily  find  it.  In  fact,  it  was  so  dark  by  the  time  we  returned  to 
the  bank,  that  I was  obliged  to  call  for  a lantern  to  find  my  way 


SNAKES. 


^273 


down  again.  I asked  what  beasts  the  man  had  to  apprehend,  and 
he  answered,  wild  hogs  and  wolves ; the  former  would  certainly 
be  likely  to  visit  his  cucumbers,  and  the  fire  might  keep  them  at 
a distance,  but  the  latter  must  be  much  more  audacious  in  this 
country  than  in  Europe,  if  they  would  come  near  a living  and 
waking  man.  It  is  probable,  however,  that  the  imperfect  means 
of  defence  possessed  by  these  poor  people,  together  with  their 
fatalist  principles  and  consequent  neglect  of  precautions,  may  give 
mischievous  animals  a greater  confidence  than  they  are  likely  to 
possess  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  strong,  hardy,  and  intelligent 
peasants  of  Russia  or  Sweden. 

The  district  of  which  Abdullah  spoke  as  subject  to  the  Nawab 
of  Oude,  is  about  four  miles  a-head  of  our  present  station,  and  is 
called  Lucha-geery.  It  was  a part  of  the  jointure  of  Saadut  Ali 
Khan’s  mother,  who  refused  to  alienate  it  when  Allahabad  and 
the  neighbouring  province  were  ceded  to  the  Company.  Since 
her  death  it  has  been  exchanged  for  a large  tract  of  our  conquests 
in  Nepaul.  While  subject  to  the  Begum  and  the  Nawab,  it  was 
indeed  a nest  of  thieves,  but  is  now  under  the  same  police  with 
the  rest  of  the  Company’s  territories. 

The  day  had  been  as  hot  as  its  predecessor,  but  towards  sun- 
set a light  pleasant  air  sprung  from  the  east,  in  which  quarter 
also  I saw  a collection  of  clouds  with  some  lightning,  and  other 
indications  of  rain,  if  not  immediately,  yet,  it  might  be  hoped,  in 
a day  or  two. 

September  18. — This  morning,  as  I was  at  breakfast,  the  alarm 
was  given  of  a great  snake  in  the  after-cabin,  which  had  found  its 
way  into  a basket  containing  two  caps,  presents  for  my  wife  and 
myself  from  Meer  UshrufF  Ali  of  Dacca.  It  was  immediately, 
and  without  examination,  pronounced  to  be  a large  “ Chreetu,” 
cobra  di  capello,  and  caused  great  alarm  amongst  my  servants ; 
however,  on  dislodging  it  from  its  retreat,  it  merely  proved  to  be 
a water-snake.  It  appeared  to  have  been  coiled  up  very  neatly 
round  the  fur  of  the  cap,  and  though  its  bite  would  not  have  been 
venomous,  would  certainly  have  inflicted  a severe  wound  on  any 
body  who  had  incautiously  opened  the  basket.  I had  once  or 
twice,  since  leaving  Chunar,  fancied  I heard  a gentle  hissing,  but 
the  idea  of  a snake  in  the  boat  seemed  so  improbable,  that  I 
attributed  it  to  different  causes,  or  to  fancy.  Much  wonder  was 
expressed  at  finding  it  in  such  a place,  but  as  I have  seen  one  of 
the  same  kind  climb  a tree,  it  is  probable  that  it  had  ascended 
one  of  the  ropes  by  which  the  boat  is  moored  at  night.  I had 
heard  at  Patna  of  a lady  who  once  lay  a whole  night  with  a cobra 
di  capello  under  her  pillow ; she  repeatedly  thought  during  the 
night  that  something  moved,  and  in  the  morning  when  she  snatched 
her  pillow  away,  she  found  the  thick  black  throat,  the  square 

VoL.  1.— 35 


274 


LUCHA-GEERY. 


head,  and  green  diamond-like  eye,  advanced  within  two  inches 
of  her  neck.  The  snake  was  without  malice,  his  hood  was  un- 
inflated, and  he  was  merely  enjoying  the  warmth  of  his  nest;  but, 
alas ! for  her,  if  she  had  during  the  night  pressed  him  a little  too 
roughly ! 

The  banks  under  Lucha-geery  are  more  than  usually  pictu- 
resque, being  very  lofty  and  steep,  covered  down  to  high-water 
mark  with  beautiful  pendant  creepers,  and  backed  by  a consider- 
able jungle.  The  stream  was  so  rapid  that  we  were  obliged  to 
cross  to  the  other  side,  and  fortunately  had  a light  easterly  breeze 
again  to  assist  us.  The  sun,  however,  was,  I think,  hotter  than 
ever.  I was  amused  to  find  that  these  boatmen  have  the  same 
fancy  with  our  English  sailors  about  whistling  for  a wind. 

Within  these  few  days  all  the  vermin  part  of  Noah’s  household 
seem  to  have  taken  a fancy  to  my  little  ark.  To  the  scorpions, 
the  cockroaches,  the  ants,  and  the  snake,  were  added  this  morn- 
ing two  of  the  largest  spiders  1 ever  saw,  and  such  as  1 regretted 
afterwards  I did  not  preserve  in  spirits.  In  a bottle  they  would 
have  made  monsters  fit  for  the  shelf  of  any  conjurer  in  Christen- 
dom. About  three  o’clock,  as  we  were  doubling  a sand-bank, 
some  fishermen  came  on  board  with  a large  fish,  which  they  called 
“rooh,”  something  like  a carp,  and  weighing,  I should  guess, 
twenty  pounds,  for  which  they  only  asked  six  anas,  and  1 bought 
it  for  my  servants.  I asked  if  they  had  any  more,  on  which  they 
produced  two  others,  between  them  a fair  load  for  an  ass,  and  of 
a kind  which  1 never  saw  before.  They  were  ugly  fish,  with 
heads  a little  like  toads,  a smooth  skin  without  scales,  of  a pale 
olive  colour,  one  high  dusky-coloured  upright  fin  on  the  back,  and 
another  on  each  side,  with  a forked  tail ; their  name  ‘‘  Baghee.” 
Abdullah  said  they  were  eatable  and  wholesome,  so  I bought 
them  also  as  a feast  for  the  dandees.  The  Mussulmans,  however, 
objected  to  them  on  the  Mosaic  ground  of  having  no  scales,  so 
that  they  fell  to  the  share  exclusively  of  the  Hindoos,  who  form 
the  crews  of  the  baggage  and  cook-boats,  and  they  were  beyond 
measure  delighted  and  grateful.  Two  alligators  showed  them- 
selves to-day,  but  at  some  distance ; they  are  evidently  shy,  but 
fish  seem  extremely  abundant  in  this  part  of  the  river.  While  I 
was  writing  the  above,  another  very  fine  “ rooh”  was  brought  on 
board,  the  fishermen  swimming  with  it  from  the  land;  and  being 
content  to  dispose  of  it  for  four  anas,  I bought  this  too  for  the 
Mussulman  dandees,  so  that  every  person  on  board  had  fish  to- 
day, and  the  cost  did  not  exceed  half-a-crown,  no  great  sum  to 
make  forty  people  happy  for  the  afternoon. 

The  east  wind  blew  pleasantly  all  the  afternoon,  bringing  up  a 
good  many  clouds,  but  no  actual  rain.  It  helped  us  across  some 
very  bad  passes  of  the  stream,  where,  without  its  aid,  we  might 


DIHA. 


275 


have  been  detained  many  hours,  or  even  days.  A little  after  live 
o’clock  we  arrived  at  a village  called  Diha,  where  there  is  a large 
nullah,  which  when  navigable  affords  the  easiest  and  most  direct 
passage  to  Allahabad.  At  present  the  water  was  too  shallow,  and 
we  went  by  the  main  stream.  Mohammed  wanted  to  stop  here, 
but  as  we  had  wind  and  day-light  still,  I urged  him  to  proceed  a 
little  further  and  to  moor  on  the  eastern  bank,  along  which  I 
apprehended  the  great  dak -road  to  run,  and  designed  to  push  on 
in  my  palanquin  to  Allahabad  that  night.  Unfortunately  the 
wind  soon  grew  fainter,  and  the  stream  being  very  strong,  it  was 
quite  dark  before  we  reached  the  eastern  shore.  I determined 
on  going  myself  to  ascertain  if  there  was  a village  near,  both  as 
liking  to  explore,  and  under  the  idea  that  by  seeing  the  Thanna- 
dar,  could  any  such  be  found,  I should  judge  better  for  myself  as 
to  the  possibility  or  expediency  of  engaging  bearers,  either  im- 
mediately or  for  the  next  morning.  I accordingly  set  out,  having 
a dandee  with  a lantern,  Abdullah  and  one  of  the  Tindals  with 
each  a spear,  a defence  which  the  former  assured  me  might  not 
be  superfluous,  and  would  at  all  events  make  me  respected.  I 
had  only  my  great  stick  as  usual,  but  that  is  a tolerably  large  one, 
and,  well  used,  would  in  this  country  be  no  inconsiderable  weapon, 
f had  another  fruitless  ramble  through  very  high  corn,  some  of  it 
literally  above  my  head,  and  over  a broad  extent  of  fallow  and 
pasture,  but  found  no  village.  Some  lights  were  visible,  but  they 
were  extinguished  as  my  party  drew  near,  and  it  was  not  easy  to 
discover  whence  they  proceeded.  I had  the  caution  to  mark  the 
position  of  the  stars  before  I set  out,  or  we  should  have  had  much 
trouble  to  find  our  way  back  again.  At  length  we  stumbled  on 
a herdsman’s  shed,  where  we  found  two  men,  whom  the  sight  of 
our  spears  put,  not  without  some  cause,  in  great  alarm,  and  from 
whom  we  could  get  little  for  some  time  but  protestations  that 
they  were  very  poor,  and  entreaties  not  to  hurt  them.  They  had 
put  out  their  fire,  they  said,  because  it  was  a lonely  place,  and 
seeing  our  light,  and  hearing  our  voices,  they  were  afraid ; they 
spoke  of  the  nearest  village  as  a coss  and  a half  distant,  and  dis- 
played great  reluctance  to  undertake  to  guide  us  there.  There 
was  no  Thannah,  they  said,  nearer  than  two  coss.  They  spoke 
not  Oordoo,  but  what  Abdullah  said  was  the  true  Hindoo.  Milk 
they  called  not  “ doodh,”  but  “ gaoruss,”  “ cow-dew from  “russ,” 
“ ro5.”  Rain  they  called  “ russ'"*  simply.  They  told  us  of  a good 
path  through  the  Indian  corn  to  the  river,  in  following  which  we 
came  to  another  shed  of  the  same  sort,  where  a man  with  his  wife 
and  children  were  cooking  their  supper.  The  man  called  to  us 
for  heaven’s  sake  not  to  come  near  him,  for  he  was  a brahmin, 
and  our  approach  would  oblige  him  to  fling  away  his  mess.  In 
answer  to  my  desire  that  he  would  sell  some  milk,  he  said  he 


276 


BRAHMIN  WATCHMAN. 


could  sell  us  none,  but  if  I chose  to  take  a small  jug  which  stood 
on  one  side,  I might.  “ Nay,”  said  I,  “ I take  nothing  without 
paying.”  “ I am  a brahmin,”  he  replied,  ‘‘  and  dare  not  sell  milk, 
but  I give  it  you  voluntarily.”  ‘‘  Well,  brahmin,”  I answered, 
“ take  up  the  jug  and  bring  it  to  the  boat,  and  I will  give  you  a 
present,  not  for  the  milk,  but  voluntarily,  and  because  you  are  a 
good  fellow.”  He  immediately  started  up  with  exceeding  good- 
will, and  went  with  us,  talking  all  the  wa}%  but  in  a dialect  which 
I comprehended  but  little.  I only  understood  that  he  boasted  of 
his  own  courage  in  not  being  afraid  of  us  when  we  came  up ; 
most  people  would  have  been  so,  he  said,  but  he  had  a brother 
who  was  a sepoy,  and  he  had  been  to  see  him  with  his  regiment 
at  Sultanpoor,  and  therefore  he  was  not  afraid  when  he  saw  a 
Sahib  at  the  head  of  the  party.  He  said  he  was  one  of  the  village 
watchmen,  and  that  it  was  less  degrading  for  a brahmin  to  be  thus 
employed,  than  as  a cultivator,  which  seems  to  be  by  no  means 
an  usual  occupation  for  them  in  this  part  of  India,  though  it  is 
often  seen  in  other  districts.  1 returned  by  a circuitous  but  level 
path  along  the  beach,  which  was  sand,  and  so  precisely  as  if  the 
tide  had  just  left  it,  I could  have  fancied  myself  in  one  of  my 
evening  walks  hy  the  sea-side  in  England,  had  not  the  dark  naked 
limbs,  and  the  weapons  of  my  companions,  reminded  me  that  1 
was  in  a far  distant  land.  I was  a good  deal  disappointed  at 
the  result  of  this  expedition,  since  I had  been  anxious  to  reach 
Allahabad  in  time  to  have  service  on  the  following  day  (Sunday). 
That,  however,  was  now  apparently  impossible,  and  I was  obliged 
to  be  content  with  my  walk,  and  with  the  good  appetite  which  it 
procured  me. 

The  clouds  had  been  gradually  rising  from  the  eastward  all 
day,  but  no  rain  fell  where  I was,  though  some  seemed  to  fall  in 
the  neighbourhood.  The  night  was  cool  and  pleasant.  1 find 
all  the  people  here,  particular!}'  the  Mussulmans,  pronounce 
Allahabad,  “ Illahabaz.”  Allah  is  certainly  very  often  pronounced 
Ullah  or  Illah,  but  why  ‘‘  Abad,”  the  Persian  word  for  abode, 
should  be  altered,  I do  not  know. 

September  19. — This  morning  we  were  gratified  by  a light 
sprinkling  of  rain,  1 trust  the  forerunner  of  more.  The  fine 
easterly  wind,  however,  failed,  and  the  poor  men  had  a hard, 
though  not  a long  day’s  tow  to  Allahabad,  where  1 arrived  about 
two  in  the  afternoon.  As  it  is  here  that  my  journey  by  water 
terminates,  1 shall  set  down  some  information  concerning  Benares, 
which  I have  learned  since  leaving  it. 

The  city  of  Benares  is  certainly  the  richest,  as  well  as  proba- 
bly the  most  populous  in  India  ; it  is  also  the  best  governed  in 
respect  to  its  police,  whi^h  is  carried  on  by  a sort  of  national 
guard,  the  Chuprassies,  of  whom  1 have  made  frequent  mention, 


RELIGIOUS  TUMULT. 


277 


chosen  by  the  inhabitants  themselves,  and  merely  approved  of  by 
the  magistrates.  There  are  about  five  hundred  of  these  in  the 
city,  which  is  divided  into  sixty  wards,  with  a gate  to  each,  which 
is  shut  at  night,  and  guarded  by  one  of  these  people.  In  conse- 
quence, notwithstanding  the  vast  population,  the  crowds  of  beg- 
gars and  pilgrims  of  all  countries,  (of  Maharatta  pilgrims  alone 
there  are  generally  some  twenty  thousand  in  the  place,  many  of 
them  armed,  and  of  warlike  and  predatory  habits,)  robberies  and 
murders  are  very  rare,  while  the  guards  being  elected  and  paid  by 
the  respectable  householders,  have  an  interest  in  being  civil,  well- 
behaved,  and  attentive. 

The  army  at  Secrole  is  never  called  in  except  in  cases  of  ex- 
tremity, according  to  an  excellent  rule  laid  down  and  strictly 
observed  by  the  Government  of  Bengal,  never  to  employ  the 
military  force  except  in  affairs  of  real  war,  or  where  an  active 
and  numerous  police  is  visibly  incompetent  to  provide  for  the 
public  safety.  Only  one  instance  of  the  military  being  called  in 
has  occurred  at  Benares  during  the  last  twenty-five  years,  which 
was  on  occasion  of  the  quarrel  I have  already  noticed  between 
the  Mussulmans  and  Hindoos.  At  that  time  Mr.  Bird  was  magis- 
trate, and  he  gave  me  a far  more  formidable  idea  of  the  tumult 
than  I had  previously  formed.  One  half  of  the  population  was 
literally  armed  against  the  other,  and  the  fury  which  actuated 
both  was  more  like  that  of  demoniacs  than  rational  enemies.  It 
began  by  the  Mussulmans  breaking  down  a famous  pillar,  named 
Siva’s  walking  staff,  held  in  high  veneration  by  the  Hindoos. 
These  last  in  revenge  broke  and  burnt  down  a mosque,  and  the 
retort  of  the  first  aggressors  was  to  kill  a cow,  and  pour  her  blood 
into  the  sacred  well.  In  consequence  every  Hindoo  able  to  bear 
arms,  and  many  who  had  no  other  fitness  for  the  employment 
than  rage  supplied,  procured  weapons,  and  attacked  their  enemies 
with  frantic  fury  wherever  they  met  them.  Being  the  most  nu- 
merous party,  they  put  the  Mussulmans  in  danger  of  actual  ex- 
termination, and  would  certainly  have  at  least  burned  every 
mosque  in  the  place  before  twenty-four  hours  were  over,  if  the 
sepoys  had  not  been  called  in.  Of  these  last,  the  temper  was 
extremely  doubtful.  By  far  the  greater  number  of  them  were 
Hindoos,  and  perhaps  one  half  brahmins  ; any  one  of  them,  if  he 
had  been  his  own  master,  would  have  rejoiced  in  an  opportunity 
of  shedding  his  life’s  blood  in  a quarrel  with  the  Mussulmans,  and 
of  the  mob  who  attacked  them,  the  brahmins,  yoguees,  gossains, 
and  other  religious  mendicants,  formed  the  front  rank, their  bodies 
and  faces  covered  with  chalk  and  ashes,  their  long  hair  untied  as 
devoted  to  death,  showing  their  strings,  and  yelling  out  to  them 
all  the  bitterest  curses  of  their  religion,  if  they  persisted  in  urging 
an  unnatural  war  against  their  brethren  and  their  gods.  The 


278 


RELIGIOUS  TUMULT. 


sepoys,  however,  were  immoveable.  Regarding  the  military 
oath  as  the  most  sacred  of  all  obligations,  they  fired  at  a brahmin 
as  readily  as  at  any  one  else,  and  kept  guard  at  the  gate  of  a 
mosque  as  faithfully  and  fearlessly  as  if  it  had  been  the  gate  of 
one  of  their  own  temples.  Their  courage  and  steadiness  pre- 
served Benares  from  ruin. 

One  observation  of  some  of  the  Hindoo  sepoys  was  remarkable. 
The  pillar,  the  destruction  of  which  led  to  all  the  tumult,  had 
originally  stood  in  one  of  the  Hindoo  temples  which  were  destroy- 
ed by  Aurungzebe,  and  mosques  built  over  them.  In  the  mosque, 
however,  it  still  was  suffered  to  exist,  and  pilgrimages  were  made 
to  it  by  the  Hindoos  through  the  connivance  of  the  Mussulmans, 
in  consequence  of  their  being  allowed  to  receive  half  of  all  the 
offerings  made  there.  It  was  a very  beautiful  shaft  of  one  stone, 
forty  feet  high,  and  covered  with  exquisite  carving.  This  carv- 
ing gave  offence  to  several  zealous  Mohammedans,  but  the  quar- 
rel which  hastened  its  destruction  arose,  as  I have  stated,  from 
the  unfortunate  rencontre  of  the  rival  processions.  Respecting 
the  pillar,  a tradition  had  long  prevailed  among  the  Hindoos,  that 
it  was  gradually  sinking  in  the  ground,  that  it  had  been  twice  the 
visible  height  it  then  showed,  and  that  when  its  summit  was  level 
with  the  earth,  all  nations  were  to  be  of  one  caste,  and  the  reli- 
gion of  Brahma  to  have  an  end.  Two  brahmin  sepoys  were 
keeping  guard  in  the  mosque,  where  the  defaced  and  prostrate 
pillar  lay,  “ Ah,”  said  one  of  them,  “ we  have  seen  that  which  we 
never  thought  to  see,  Siva’s  shaft  has  its  head  even  with  the 
ground  ; we  shall  all  be  of  one  caste  shortly,  what  will  be  our 
religion  then?”  “ 1 suppose  the  Christian,”  answered  the  other. 
“ I suppose  so  too,”  rejoined  the  first,  “ for  after  all  that  has 
passed,  I am  sure  we  shall  never  turn  Mussulmans.” 

After  the  tumult  was  quelled,  a very  curious  and  impressive 
scene  succeeded  ; the  holy  city  had  been  profaned  ; the  blood  of 
a cow  had  been  mixed  with  the  purest  water  of  Gunga,  and  sal- 
vation was  to  be  obtained  at  Benares  no  longer.  All  the  brah- 
mins in  the  city,  amounting  to  many  thousands,  went  down  in 
melancholy  procession,  with  ashes  on  their  heads,  naked  and  fast- 
ing, to  the  principal  ghats  leading  to  the  river,  and  sate  there  with 
their  hands  folded,  their  heads  hanging  down,  to  all  appearance 
inconsolable,  and  refusing  to  enter  a house  or  to  taste  food.  Two 
or  three  days  of  this  abstinence,  however,  began  to  tire  them, 
and  a hint  was  given  to  the  magistrates  and  other  public  men, 
that  a visit  of  condolence  and  an  expression  of  sympathy  with 
these  holy  mourners  would  sufficiently  comfort  them,  and  give 
them  an  ostensible  reason  for  returning  to  their  usual  employ- 
ment. Accordingly  all  the  British  functionaries  went  to  the 
principal  ghat,  expressed  their  sorrow  for  the  distress  in  which 


SITTING  DHURNA. 


279 


they  saw  them,  but  reasoned  with  them  on  the  absurdity  of  pun= 
ishing  themselves  for  an  act  in  which  they  had  no  share,  and 
which  they  had  done  their  utmost  to  prevent  or  avenge.  This 
prevailed,  and  after  much  bitter  weeping,  it  was  resolved  that 
Ganges  was  Ganges  still,  that  a succession  of  costly  offerings 
from  the  laity  of  Benares  might  wipe  out  the  stain  which  their 
religion  had  received,  and  that  the  advice  of  the  judges  was  the 
best  and  most  reasonable.  Mr.  Bird,  who  was  one  of  the  am- 
bassadors on  this  occasion,  told  me  that  the  scene  was  very  im- 
pressive and  even  awful.  The  gaunt  squallid  figures  of  the 
devotees,  their  visible  and  apparently  unaffected  anguish  and  dis- 
may, the  screams  and  outcries  of  the  women  who  surrounded 
them,  and  the  great  numbers  thus  assembled,  altogether  consti- 
tuted a spectacle  of  wo  such  as  few  cities  but  Benares  could 
supply. 

Yet  even  this  was  exceeded  by  a spectacle  of  a kind  almost 
similar,  which  Benares  offered  on  another  occasion.  Government 
had  then,  unadvisedly,  imposed  a house-tax  of  a very  unpopular 
character,  both  from  its  amount  and  its  novelty.  To  this  the 
natives  objected,  that  they  recognised  in  their  British  rulers  the 
same  rights  which  had  been  exercised  by  the  Moguls, — that  the 
land-tax  was  theirs,  and  that  they  could  impose  duties  on  com- 
modities going  to  market,  or  for  exportation : but  that  their 
houses  were  their  own, — that  they  had  never  been  intermeddled 
with  in  any  but  their  landed  property,  and  commodities  used  in 
traffic, — and  that  the  same  power  which  now  imposed  a heavy 
and  unheard  of  tax  on  their  dwellings,  might  do  the  same  next 
year  on  their  children  and  themselves.  These  considerations, 
though  backed  by  strong  representations  from  the  magistrates, 
produced  no  effect  in  Calcutta ; on  which  the  whole  population 
of  Benares  and  its  neighbourhood  determined  to  sit  “ dhurna” 
till  their  grievances  were  redressed.  To  sit  “ dhurna,”  or  mourn- 
ing, is  to  remain  motionless  in  that  posture,*»without  food,  and 
' exposed  to  the  weather,  till  the  person  against  whom  it  is  em- 
ployed consents  to  the  request  offered ; and  the  Hindoos  believe 
that  whoever  dies  under  such  a process  becomes  a tormenting 
spirit  to  haunt  and  afflict  his  inflexible  antagonist.  This  is  a 
practice  not  unfrequent  in  the  intercourse  of  individuals,  to  en- 
force payment  of  a debt,  or  forgiveness  of  one.  And  among 
Hindoos  it  is  very  prevailing,  not  only  from  the  apprehended 
dreadful  consequences  of  the  death  of  the  petitioner,  but  because 
many  are  of  opinion,  that  while  a person  sits  dhurna  at  their 
door,  they  must  not  themselves  presume  to  eat,  or  undertake  any 
secular  business.  It  is  even  said  that  some  persons  hire  brah- 
mins to  sit  dhurna  for  them,  the  thing  being  to  be  done  by  proxy, 
and  the  dhurna  of  a brahmin  being  naturally  more  awful  in  its 
effects  than  that  of  a soodra  could  be.  T do  not  know  whether 


280 


SITTING  DHURNA. 


there  is  any  example  under  their  ancient  princes  of  a considerable 
portion  of  the  people  taking  this  strange  method  of  remonstrance 
against  oppression,  but  in  this  case  it  was  done  with  great  resolu- 
tion, and  surprising  concert  and  unanimity.  Some  of  the  leading 
brahmins  sent  written  handbills  to  the  wards  in  Benares  nearest 
the  college,  and  to  some  of  the  adjoining  villages,  declaring 
very  shortly  the  causes  and  necessity  of  the  measures  which  they 
were  about  to  adopt,  calling  on  all  lovers  of  their  country  and 
national  creed  to  join  in  it,  and  commanding,  under  many  bitter 
curses,  every  person  who  received  it  to  forward  it  to  his  next 
neighbour.  Accordingly  it  flew  over  the  country  like  the  fiery 
cross  in  the  “ Lady  of  the  Lake,”  and  three  days  after  it  was 
issued,  and  before  Government  were  in  the  least  apprised  of  the 
plan,  above  300,000  persons,  as  it  is  said,  deserted  their  houses, 
shut  up  their  shops,  suspended  the  labour  of  their  farms,  forbore 
to  light  fires,  dress  victuals,  many  of  them  even  to  eat,  and  sate 
down  with  folded  arms  and  drooping  heads,  like  so  many  sheep, 
on  the  plain  which  surrounds  Benares. 

The  local  government  were  exceedingly  perplexed.  There 
was  the  chance  that  very  many  of  these  strange  beings  would 
really  perish,  either  from  their  obstinacy,  or  the  diseases  which 
they  would  contract  in  their  present  situation.  There  was  a 
probability  that  famine  would  ensue,  from  the  interruption  of 
agricultural  labour,  at  the  most  critical  time  of  the  year.  There 
was  a certainty  that  the  revenue  would  sufler  very  materially  from 
this  total  cessation  of  all  traffic.  And  it  might  even  be  appre- 
hended that  their  despair,  and  the  excitement  occasioned  by  such 
a display  of  physical  force,  would  lead  them  to  far  stronger  demon- 
strations of  discontent  than  that  of  sitting  dhurna.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  authorities  of  Benares  neither  were  permitted,  nor 
would  it  have  been  expedient,  to  yield  to  such  a demand,  so 
urged.  They  conducted  themselves  with  great  prudence  and 
good  temper.  Many  of  the  natives  appeared  to  expect,  and  the 
brahmins  perhaps  hoped,  that  they  would  still  further  outrage  the 
feelings  of  the  people,  by  violently  suppressing  their  assemblage. 
They  did  no  such  thing,  but  coolly  reasoned  with  some  of  the 
ringleaders  on  the  impossibility  that  Government  should  yield  to 
remonstrances  so  enforced.  They  however  told  them  expressly, 
in  answer  to  their  inquiries,  that  if  they  chose  to  sit  dhurna,  it 
was  their  own  affair  ; and  that  so  long  as  they  only  injured  them- 
selves, and  were  peaceable  in  their  behaviour  to  others.  Govern- 
ment would  not  meddle  with  them.  They  did  not  omit,  however,  to 
bring  a strong  body  of  Europeans  from  Dinapoor  and  Ghazeepoor, 
to  the  neighbouring  cantonment,  without  appearing  to  watch  the 
conduct  of  the  natives,  or  putting  it  into  their  heads  that  they 
suspected  them  of  violent  intentions.  At  last  the  multitude  began 
to  grow  very  hungry,  and  a thunder  shower  which  fell  made  them 


SITTING  DHURNA. 


281 


wet,  cold,  and  uncomfortable.  Some  of  the  party  proposed  a 
change  of  operations,  and  that  a deputation  of  10,000  should  be 
sent  to  address  the  Governor-General  personally.  This  was 
eagerly  carried  by  a majority  heartily  tired  of  their  situation,  and 
the  next  question  was,  how  these  men  should  be  maintained  during 
their  journey?  when  one  leading  brahmin  proposed  a tax  on 
houses.  A string  was  here  struck  which  made  the  whole  instru- 
ment jar.  “ A tax  on  houses  ! If  we  are  to  pay  a tax  on  houses 
after  all,  we  might  as  well  have  remained  on  good  terms  with 
our  Government,  sitting  under  our  vines  and  fig-trees,  and  neither 
hungry  nor  rheumatic.”  A great  number  caught  at  the  excuse 
for  a rupture,  and  rose  to  go  home,  but  the  remainder  determined 
that  all  should  go  to  the  Governor,  every  man  at  his  own  charge. 
The  seeds  of  disunion  were  already  sown,  and  the  majority  ab^ 
sented  themselves  from  the  muster  which  was  held  three  days 
after.  From  ten  to  twenty  thousand,  however,  really  assembled 
with  such  provisions  as  they  could  collect,  and  began  their  march, 
still  unmolested  by  the  magistrates,  whose  whole  conduct  was 
wise  and  merciful ; they  well  calculated  that  provisions  would 
soon  fall  short,  and  travelling  become  wearisome,  and  merely 
watched  their  motions  at  some  distance  with  a corps  of  cavalry. 
They  knew  that  hunger  would  make  them  plunder,  and  that  the 
hilly  and  jungly  road  from  Benares  to  the  neighbourhood  of 
Burdwan,  afforded  few  facilities  for  the  subsistence  of  so  great  a 
multitude.  Accordingly,  in  a few  days  they  melted  away  to  so 
small  a number,  that  the  remainder  were  ashamed  to  proceed. 
The  supreme  Government  followed  up  their  success  most  wisely 
by  a repeal  of  the  obnoxious  tax,  and  thus  ended  a disturbance 
which,  if  it  had  been  harshly  or  improperly  managed,  might  have 
put  all  India  in  a flame. 

Benares  being  in  many  respects  the  commercial,  and  in  all,  the 
ecclesiastical  metropolis  of  India,  I was  not  surprised  to  find 
persons  from  all  parts  of  the  peninsula  residing  there.  But  I \vas 
'astonished  to  hear  of  the  number  of  Persians,  Turks,  Tartars, 
and  even  Europeans  who  are  to  be  met  with.  Among  them  is  a 
Greek,  a well-informed  and  well-mannered  man,  who  has  fixed 
himself  here  for  many  years,  living  on  his  means,  whatever  they 
are,  and  professing  to  study  the  Sanscrit.  I heard  a good  deal 
of  him  afterwards  in  Allahabad,  and  was  much  struck  by  the 
singularity  and  mystery  of  his  character  and  situation.  He  is  a 
very  good  scholar  in  the  ancient  language  of  his  country,  and 
speaks  good  English,  French,  and  Italian.  His  manners  are 
those  of  a gentleman,  and  he  lives  like  a person  at  his  ease.  Pie 
has  little  intercourse  with  the  English,  but  is  on  very  friendly 
terms  with  the  principal  Hindoo  families.  He  was  once  an  ob- 
ject of  suspicion  to  Government,  but  after  watching  him  for  a 

VoL.  I. — 36 


282 


GOVERNORS  OF  INDIA. 


long  time  they  saw  nothing  in  his  conduct  to  confirm  their  sus- 
picions, and  during  Lord  Hastings’s  first  Pindarree  war,  he 
voluntarily  gave,  on  different  occasions,  information  of  much 
importance.  So  few  Europeans,  however,  who  can  help  it,  reside 
in  India,  that  it  seems  strange  that  any  man  should  prefer' it  as  a 
residence,  without  some  stronger  motive  than  a fondness  for 
Sanscrit  literature,  more  particularly  since  he  does  not  appear  to 
meditate  any  work  on  the  subject.  He  was  a partner  in  a Greek 
house  in  Calcutta,  but  is  now  said  to  have  retired  from  business. 
There  is  also  a Russian  here,  who  by  a natural  affinity  lives  much 
with  the  Greek.  He  is,  however,  a trader,  and  has  apparently 
moved  in  a much  humbler  rank  of  society  than  his  friend. 

Though  Benares  is  the  holy  place  of  India,  the  brahmins  there 
are  less  intolerant  and  prejudiced  than  in  most  other  places. 
The  eternal  round  of  idle  ceremonies  in  which  they  pass  their 
time,  is  said  to  have  produced,  in  many  of  them,  a degree  of 
weariness  of  their  own  system,  and  a disposition  to  inquire  after 
others  which  does  not  exist  in  Calcutta.  I was  told  that  the 
Archdeacon,  when  here,  was  an  object  of  great  interest  and 
respect  with  them ; and  had  he  resided  longer,  it  is  probable  that 
he  would  have  had  more  converts  than  at  Agra.  It  is  also,  gene- 
rally speaking,  loyal,  and  well  affected  to  the  Company’s  Govern- 
ment, though  its  inhabitants,  being  in  fact  superior  in  rank,  wealth, 
and  education,  to  those  of  the  average  of  Indian  towns,  talk  more 
of  public  men  and  public  matters. 

I was  curious  to  know  what  Governors  of  India  had  stood 
highest  in  their  good  opinion,  and  found  that  they  usually  spoke 
of  Warren  Hastings  and  Lord  Wellesley  as  the  two  greatest  men 
who  had  ever  ruled  this  part  of  the  world,  but  that  they  spoke 
with  most  affection  of  Mr.  Jonathan  Duncan.  ‘‘  Duncan  sahib 
ka  chota  bhaee,”  “ Mr.  Duncan’s  younger  brother,^’  is  still  the 
usual  term  of  praise  applied  to  any  public  man  who  appears  to 
be  actuated  by  an  unusual  spirit  of  kindness  and  liberality  towards 
their  nation.  Of  the  sultan-like  and  splendid  character  of  War- 
ren Hastings,  many  traits  are  preserved,  and  a nursery  rhyme, 
which  is  often  sung  to  children,  seems  to  show  how  much  they 
were  pleased  with  the  Oriental  (not  European)  pomp  which  he 
knew  how  to  employ  on  occasion. 

“ Hat’hee  pur  howdah,  ghore  pur  jeen, 

Juldee  bah’r  jata  Sahib  Warren  HusteenI 

Of  Lord  Hastings  1 have  not  found  that  they  have  retained  any 
very  favourable  impression.  Yet  the  extent  of  his  conquests, 
and  his  pleasing  manners  during  his  short  visit,  must,  1 should 
think,  have  struck  them. 


ALLAHABAD. 


283 


Allahabad  stands  in  perhaps  the  most  favourable  situation 
which  India  affords  for  a great  city,  in  a dry  and  healthy  soil,  on 
a triangle,  at  the  junction  of  the  two  mighty  streams,  Gunga  and 
Jumna,  with  an  easy  communication  with  Bombay  and  Madras, 
and  capable  of  being  fortified  so  as  to  become  almost  impregnable. 
But  though  occasionally  the  residence  of  royalty,  though  generally 
inhabited  by  one  of  the  Shah-zadehs,  and  still  containing  two  or 
three  fine  ruins,  it  never  appears  to  have  been  a great  or  magni- 
ficent city,  and  is  now  even  more  desolate  and  ruinous  than  Dacca, 
having  obtained,  among  the  natives,  the  name  of Fakeer-abad,” 
“ beggar-abode.”  It  may,  however,  revive  to  some  greater  pros- 
perity, from  the  increase  of  the  civil  establishment  attached  to  it. 
It  is  now  the  permanent  station  (the  castrum  Hybernum)  of  the 
Sudder  Mofussil  commission,  a body  of  judges  whose  office  is  the 
same  with  regard  to  these  provinces  as  that  of  the  Sudder  Dewan- 
nee  Udawlut  for  the  eastern  parts  of  the  empire.  The  necessity 
for  such  a special  court  had  become  very  great.  The  remoteness 
of  the  Sudder  Dewannee  had  made  appeals  to  it  almost  i^lpossi- 
ble,  and  very  great  extortion  and  oppression  had  been  committed 
by  the  native  agents  of  the  inferior  and  local  courts,  sometimes 
with  the  connivance,  but  more  often  through  the  ignorance  and 
inexperience  of  the  junior  magistrates  and  judges.  They,  when 
these  provinces  were  placed  under  British  governors,  having 
been  previously  employed  in  Bengal  and  Bahar,  naturally  took 
their  Bengalee  followers  with  them,  a race  regarded  by  the  Hin- 
doostanecs  as  no  less  foreigners  than  the  English,  and  even  more 
odiouS'  than  Franks,  from  ancient  prejudice,  and  from  their 
national  reputation  of  craft,  covetousness,  and  cowardice.  In 
fact,  by  one  means  or  other,  these  Bengalees  almost  all  acquired 
considerable  landed  property  in  a short  time  among  them,  and  it 
has  been  the  main  business  of  the  Sudder  Mofussil  Udawlut,  to 
review  the  titles  to  all  property  acquired  since  the  English 
Government  entered  the  Dooab.  In  many  instances  they  have 
succeeded  in  recovering  all  or  part  of  extensive  possessions  to 
their  rightful  heirs,  and  the  degree  of  confidence  in  the  justice  of 
their  rulers,  with  which  they  have  inspired  the  natives,  is  said  to 
be  very  great.  They  make  circuits  during  all  the  travelling 
months  of  the  year,  generally  pitching  their  tents  near  towns, 
and  holding  their  courts  under  trees,  an  arrangement  so  agreeable 
to  Indian  prejudices,  that  one  of  these  judges  said  it  was,  in  his 
opinion,  one  main  source  of  their  usefulness,  inasmuch  as  an 
Indian  of  the  humbler  class  is  really  always  under  constraint  and 
fear  in  a house,  particularly  if  furnished  in  the  European  manner, 
and  can  neither  attend  to  what  is  told  him,  nor  tell  his  own  story 
so  well  as  in  the  open  air,  and  amidst  those  objects  from  which 
all  his  enjoyments  are  drawn.  At  Allahabad,  however,  where 


284 


JUMNA  MUSJEED. 


their  permanent  abodes  are,  these  judges  have  a court-house, 
though  a very  humble  one,  thatched,  and  inconvenient. 

The  only  considerable  buildings  or  ruins  in  Allahabad  are  the 
fort,  the  Jumna  Musjeed,  and  the  serai  and  garden  of  Sultan 
Khosroo.  The  first  stands  on  the  point  of  the  triangle  formed 
by  the  two  rivers,  and  is  strong  both  naturally  and  artificially. 
It  has  been  a very  noble  castle,  but  has  suffered  in  its  external 
appearance  as  much  as  it  has  probably  gained  in  strength,  by 
the  modernization  which  it  has  undergone  from  its  present  mas- 
ters, its  lofty  towers  being  pruned  down  into  bastions  and  cava- 
liers, and  its  high  stone  rampart  topped  with  turf  parapets,  and 
obscured  by  a green  sloping  glacis.  It  is  still,  however,  a striking 
place,  and  its  principal  gate,  surmounted  by  a dome,  with  a wide 
hall  beneath  surrounded  by  arcades  and  galleries,  and  ornamented 
with  rude  but  glowing  paintings,  is  the  noblest  entrance  I ever 
saw  to  a place  of  arms.  This  has  been,  I think,  injudiciously 
modernized  without,  after  the  Grecian  or  Italian  style,  but  within, 
the  high  gothic  arches  and  Saracenic  paintings  remain.  The 
barracks  are  very  handsome  and  neat,  something  like  those  of 
Fort  William,  which  the  interior  disposition  of  the  fort  a good 
deal  resembles.  On  one  side,  however,  is  a large  range  of  build- 
ings, still  in  the  oriental  style,  and  containing  some  noble  vaulted' 
rooms,  chiefly  occupied  as  officers’  quarters,  and  looking  down 
from  a considerable  height  on  the  rapid  stream  and  craggy  banks 
of  the  Jumna.  The  Jumna  and  Ganges  are  here  pretty  nearly 
of  equal  width ; the  former  is  the  more  rapid  of  the  two,  and  its 
navigation  more  dangerous  from  the  rocky  character  of  its  bed, 
and  its  want  of  depth  in  the  dry  season.  At  present  both  streams 
were  equally  turbid,  but  in  another  month,  I am  told,  we  should 
have  found  the  water  of  the  Jumna  clear  as  crystal,  and  strangely 
contrasted  with  the  turbid  yellow  wave  of  the  more  sacred  stream, 
which  is,  however,  when  allowed  some  little  time  to  clear  itself, 
by  far  the  most  palatable  of  the  two,  and  preferred  by  all  the  city, 
both  native  and  European. 

The  Jumna  Musjeed,  or  principal  mosque,  is  still  in  good 
repair,  but  very  little  frequented.  It  stands  on  an  advantageous 
situation  on  the  banks  of  the  Jumna,  adjoining  the  city  on  one 
side,  and  on  the  other  an  esplanade  before  the  fort  glacis,  planted 
with  trees  like  that  of  Calcutta.  It  is  a solid  and  stately  building, 
but  without  much  ornament.  It  had  been,  since  the  English 
conquest  fitted  up  first  as  a residence  for  the  General  of  the 
station,  then  used  as  an  assembly-room,  till  Mr.  Courtney  Smith, 
apprehending  this  to  be  an  insult  to  the  religious  feelings  of  the 
Mussulmans,  persuaded  the  Government  to  restore  it  to  its  sacred 
character,  and  to  repair  its  damages.  The  Mussulmans,  however, 
are  neither  numerous  nor  zealous  in  Allahabad,  and  seemed  to 


ALLAHABAD. 


285 


care  little  about  the  matter.  Nevertheless  the  original  dese- 
cration was  undoubtedly  offensive  and  unjust,  and  the  restitution 
a proper  and  popular  measure. 

The  finest  things  in  Allahabad,  however,  are  Sultan  Khosroo’s 
serai  and  garden  ; the  former  is  a noble  quadrangle,  with  four  fine 
gothic  gateways,  surrounded  within  an  embattled  wall  by  a range 
of  cloisters  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers.  The  whole  is 
now  much  dilapidated,  but  was  about  to  be  repaired  from  the 
town  duties,  when  unhappily  the  Birmese  war  arrested  this  excel- 
lent appropriation  of  an  unpopular  tax.  Adjoining  the  serai  is  a 
neglected  garden,  planted  with  fine  old  mangoe  trees,  in  which  are 
three  beautiful  tombs  raised  over  two  princes  and  a princess  of  the 
imperial  family.  Each  consists  of  a large  terrace,  with  vaulted 
apartments  beneath  it,  in  the  central  one  of  which  is  a tomb  like  a 
stone  coffin,  richly  carved.  Above  is  a very  lofty  circular  apart- 
ment, covered  by  a dome  richly  painted  within,  and  without 
carved  yet  more  beautifully.  All  these  are  very  solemn  and 
striking,  rich,  but  not  florid  or  gaudy,  and  completely  giving  the 
lie  to  the  notion  common  in  England,  which  regards  all  eastern 
architecture  as  in  bad  taste  and  “ barbarous.” 

The  houses  of  the  civil  servants  of  the  Company  are  at  some 
distance,  both  from  the  fort  and  the  town,  extending  along  a small 
rising  ground,  in  a line  from  the  Ganges  to  the  Jumna.  They  are 
mere  bungalows,  and  less  both  in  size  and  ornament  than  at  any 
station  I have  yet  seen  in  these  provinces.  The  situation  is, 
however,  pleasant  and  healthy.  The  city  of  Allahabad  is  small, 
with  very  poor  houses,  and  narrow  irregular  streets,  and  confined 
to  the  banks  of  the  Jumna. 

I remained  ten  days  at  Allahabad,  waiting  the  arrival  of  tents 
from  Cawnpoor.  During  this  time  I had  the  pleasure  of  con- 
firming twenty  persons,  two  of  them  natives,  and  of  preaching 
and  administering  the  sacrament  to  seventy  or  eighty,  of  whom 
some  were  also  natives,  or  at  least  in  the  native  dress.  The 
residents  here  are  exceedingly  anxious  for  a chaplain,  but  that 
one  should  be  appointed  at  this  time,  I entertain  but  few  hopes, 
though  it  is  very  sad  that  such  a congregation  should  want  one. 
For  the  present  I hope  to  procure  them  one  of  the  Church 
Missionaries. 

Amid  the  other  necessary  preparations  for  my  land  journey, 
more  numerous  by  far,  and  more  various,  than  I had  anticipated, 
I had  to  purchase  a horse  for  my  own  riding,  no  elephant  being 
either  to  be  begged,  bought,  or  borrowed  in  Allahabad,  and  no 
reasonable  hope  being  held  out  of  my  procuring  one  in  Cawnpoor. 
Indeed,  most  people  tell  me  that  a horse,  during  the  greater  part 
of  the  journey  which  1 have  before  me,  will  be  a far  preferable 
conveyance.  To  procure  a tolerable  one  was  not,  however,  an 


286 


HORSE  DEALERS. 


easy  matter.  Arabs  are  excessively  scarce  and  dear,  and  one 
which  was  sent  for  me  to  look  at,  at  a price  of  800  rupees,  was  a 
skittish,  cat-legged  thing,  not  worth  half  the  money.  I went 
with  Mr.  Bird,  whose  kindness  and  hospitality  were  unremitting 
during  my  whole  stay,  to  look  at  a drove  of  up-country  horses, 
just  arrived  from  Lahore  and  Turkistan,  and  was  exceedingly 
amused  and  interested  by  the  picturesque  groups  of  men  and 
animals  which  met  the  eye  in  a crowded  serai  about  nightfall,  as 
well  as  with  the  fine  forms  of  some  of  the  colts  offered  for  sale, 
and  the  singular  appearance  and  manner  of  the  grazier  who  owned 
the  “ cofilah,”  or  caravan,  and  his  attendant  saeeses.  The  former 
was  an  elderly  man,  six  feet  high,  and  more  than  proportionally 
corpulent,  with  a long,  curling,  black  beard,  spreading  over  his 
white  peyrahoom.  The  latter  were  also  large-limbed,  tall  men, 
with  long  hair  in  black  strong  ringlets  hanging  down  their  backs 
and  over  their  ears,  their  little  turbans  set  knowingly  on  one  side, 
and  neither  they  nor  their  master  much  darker  than  Europeans. 
Indeed,  they  exceedingly  resembled  some  of  the  portraits  of 
Italians  by  Titian ; they  rode  well,  and  showed  great  strength ; 
but  what  most  amused  me  was  the  remarkable  resemblance  be- 
tween horse-dealers  all  over  the  world,  in  turns  of  expression,  in 
tricks  of  trade,  nay,  even  in  tone  of  voice  and  cast  of  countenance. 
I had  fortunately  an  excellent  judge  in  Mr.  Bird,  but  even  he  was 
perplexed  for  some  time  how  to  advise  me.  At  length  I fixed  on 
a very  handsome  colt,  too  young,  certainly,  but  strong,  and  very 
good  tempered,  for  which  I gave  460  rupees.  The  old  man  went 
and  came  over  and  over  again  before  he  would  take  the  price,  but 
I was  pertinacious ; and  at  last,  on  Abdullah’s  suggesting  that  an 
additional  present  of  something  besides  money  would  please  him 
better,  I gave  him  apiece  of  Dacca  muslin,  sufficient  for  a turban, 
and  worth  about  eight  sicca  rupees,  as  well  as  a small  phial  of 
laudanum  and  brandy  for  an  ear-ache,  of  which  he  bitterly  com- 
plained. This  satisfied  him,  and  we  parted  very  good  friends, 
Mr.  Bird  being  of  opinion  that  the  price  was  really  a fair  one,  and 
the  horse  extremely  promising.  It  was  also  necessary  to  buy  five 
tattoes  for  my  servants  to  ride  in  turns,  as  there  were  no  baggage- 
elephants  to  mount  them  on.  This,  however,  was  easily  accom- 
plished, and  the  animals,  saddles,  bridles,  and  all,  were  obtained, 
though  very  good  ones  of  their  kind,  for  sixteen  rupees  each. 
A long  string  of  other  necessaries  followed,  and  I had  the  morti- 
fication to  find  that  few  of  the  things  I had  brought  with  me  from 
Calcutta  could  be  put  on  the  backs  of  camels.  It  was  with  the 
greatest  difficulty  that  a carpenter  could  be  found  in  the  whole 
city  to  drive  a nail,  or  a blacksmith  to  make  a horse-shoe ; it 
being  the  festival  of  Rama  and  Seeta,  all  the  world  was  employed 
in  seeing  the  hero  with  his  army  of  monkeys  attack  the  giant 


FESTIVAL  OF  RAMA  AND  SEETA. 


287 


Ravanu.  Many  other  hinderances  and  disappointments  occurred, 
but  the  delay  they  occasioned  gave  me  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
something  of  the  Ramayuna  festival,  which  consists  in  a sort  of 
dramatic  representation  during  many  successive  days,  of  Rama’s 
history  and  adventures.  The  first  evening  I went  with  Mr.  Bird 
to  the  show^  for  as  such  it  is  now  considered,  and  so  entirely 
divested  of  every  religious  character,  as  to  be  attended  even  by 
Mussulmans  without  scruple.  I found  Rama,  his  brother  Luch- 
mun,  and  his  betrothed  wife  Seeta,  represented  by  three  children 
of  about  twelve  years  old,  seated  in  Durbar,  under  an  awning  in 
the  principal  street  of  the  sepoy  lines,  with  a great  crowd  round 
them,  some  fanning  them,  (of  which,  poor  things,  they  had  great 
need,)  some  blowing  horns  and  beating  gongs  and  drums,  and  the 
rest  shouting  till  the  air  rang  again.  The  two  heroes  were  very 
fine  boys,  and  acted  their  parts  admirably.  Each  had  a gilt  bow 
in  his  left  hand,  and  a sabre  in  his  right,  their  naked  bodies  were 
almost  covered  with  gilt  ornaments  and  tinsel,  they  had  high 
tinsel  crowns  on  their  heads,  their  foreheads  and  bodies  spotted 
with  charcoal,  chalk,  and  vermilion,  and  altogether  perfectly 
resembled  the  statues  of  Hindoo  deities, 

“ Except  that  of  their  eyes  alone 
The  twinkle  showed  they  were  not  stone.” 

Poor  little  Seeta,  wrapt  up  in  a gorgeous  veil  of  flimsy  finery,  and 
tired  to  death,  had  dropped  her  head  on  her  breast,  and  seemed 
happily  insensible  to  all  which  was  going  on.  The  brahmin 
sepoys  who  bore  the  principal  part  in  the  play,  made  room,  with 
great  solicitude,  for  us  to  see.  1 asked  a good  many  questions, 
and  obtained  very  ready  answers  in  much  the  same  way,  and 
with  no  more  appearance  of  reverence  or  devotion  than  one 
should  receive  from  an  English  mob  at  a puppet-show.  “ I 
see  Rama,  Seeta,  and  Luchmun,  but  where  is  Huniman?”  (the 
famous  monkey  general.)  “ Huniman,”  was  the  answer,  “ is  not 
yet  come ; but  that  man,”  pointing  to  a great  stout  soldier  of 
singularly  formidable  exterior,  “ is  Huniman,  and  he  will  soon 
arrive.”  The  man  began  laughing  as  if  half  ashamed  of  his 
destination,  but  now  took  up  the  conversation,  telling  me  that 
“ next  day  was  to  be  a far  prettier  play  than  I now  saw,  for  Seeta 
was  to  be  stolen  away  by  Ravanu  and  his  attendant  evil  spirits, 
Rama  and  Luchmun  were  to  go  to  the  jungle  in  great  sorrow  to 
seek  for  her,” 

(“  Rama,  your  Rama  ! to  greenwood  must  hie  !”) 

That  “ then  (laughing  again)  1 and  my  army  shall  come,  and 
we  shall  fight  bravely,  bravely.”  The  evening  following  I was 


288 


FESTIVAL  OF  RAMA  AND  SEETA. 


engaged,  but  the  next  day  I repeated  my  visit ; I was  then  too 
late  for  the  best  part  of  the  show,  which  had  consisted  of  a first 
and  unsuccessful  attack  by  Rama  and  his  army  on  the  fortress  of 
the  gigantic  ravisher.  That  fortress,  however,  I saw, — an  en- 
closure of  bamboos,  covered  with  paper  and  painted  with  doors 
and  windows,  within  which  was  a frightful  paper  giant,  fifteen  feet 
high,  with  ten  or  twelve  arms,  each  grasping  either  a sword,  an 
arrow,  a bow,  a battle-axe,  or  a spear.  At  his  feet  sate  poor  little 
Seeta  as  motionless  as  before,  guarded  by  two  figures  to  represent 
demons.  The  brothers  in  a splendid  palkee  were  conducting  the 
retreat  of  their  army ; the  divine  Huniman,  as  naked  and  almost 
as  hairy  as  the  animal  whom  he  represented,  was  gamboling  before 
them,  with  a long  tail  tied  round  his  waist,  a mask  to  represent 
the  head  of  a baboon,  and  two  great  painted  clubs  in  his  hands. 
His  army  followed,  a number  of  men  with  similar  tails  and  masks, 
their  boies  dyed  with  indigo,  and  also  armed  with  clubs.  I was 
never  so  forcibly  struck  with  the  identity  of  Rama  and  Bacchus. 
Here  were  before  me  Bacchus,  his  brother  Ampelus,  the  Satyrs, 
(smeared  with  wine  lees,)  and  the  great  Pan  commanding  them. 
The  fable,  however,  can  hardly  have  originated  in  India,  and 
probably  has  been  imported  both  by  the  Greeks  and  brahmins 
from  Cashmere,  or  some  other  central  country  where  the  grape 
grows,  unless  we  suppose  that  the  grape  has  been  merely  an 
accidental  appendage  to  Bacchus’s  character,  arising  from  the  fact 
that  the  festival  occurs  during  the  vintage.  There  yet  remained 
two  or  three  days  of  pageant,  before  Seeta’s  release,  purification, 
and  re-marriage  to  her  hero  lover,  but  for  this  conclusion  I did  not 
remain  in  Allahabad.  At  Benares,  I am  told,  the  show  is  on  such 
occasions  really  splendid.  The  Raja  attends  in  state  with  all  the 
principal  inhabitants  of  the  place,  he  lends  his  finest  elephants 
and  jewels  to  the  performers,  who  are  children  of  the  most  emi- 
nent families,  and  trained  up  by  long  previous  education.  I saw 
enough,  however,  at  Allahabad  to  satisfy  my  curiosity.  The  show 
is  now  a very  innocent  one,  but  there  was  a hideous  and  accursed 
practice  in  “ the  good  old  times,''’  before  the  British  police  was 
established,  at  least  if  all  which  the  Mussulmans  and  English  say 
is  to  be  believed,  which  shows  the  Hindoo  superstition  in  all  its 
horrors.  The  poor  children  who  had  been  thus  feasted,  honoured, 
and  made  to  contribute  to  the  popular  amusement,  were,  it  is 
said,  always  poisoned  in  the  sweetmeats  given  them  the  last  day 
of  the  show,  that  it  might  be  said  their  spirits  were  absorbed  into 
the  deities  whom  they  had  represented  ! Nothing  of  the  sort  can 
now  be  done.  The  children,  instead  of  being  bought  for  the  pur- 
pose, from  a distance,  by  the  priests,  are  the  children  of  neigh- 
bours, whose  prior  and  subsequent  history  is  known,  and  Rama 
and  Seeta  now  grow  old  like  other  boys  and  girls. 


289 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

ALLAHABAD  TO  CAWNPOOR. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  CARAVAN ARMED  PEASANTRY CAMAULPOOR—FYZEE 

MUSSEEH VISITS  FROM  ZEMINDAR  AND  IMAM MUSSULMAN  SOLDIER 

TURNED  SAINT RYUTS  OPPRESSED  BY  SOLDIERY FUTTEHPOOR 

SERAI — ^BEGGARS  LIVING  IN  TOMES— STORMY  MARCH  TO  KULEAN- 
POOR DAK  JOURNEY  TO  CAWNPOOR HOSPITAL  AND  SCHOOL DE- 

SCRIPTION OF  TOWN  AND  CLIMATE. 

At  length,  on  Thursday  morning  the  30th  of  September,  we 
began  our  journey,  having  sent  off  some  hours  before  our  motley 
train,  consisting  of  twenty-four  camels,  eight  carts  drawn  by  bul- 
locks, twenty-four  horse-servants,  including  those  of  the  Arch- 
deacon and  Mr.  Lushington,  ten  ponies,  forty  bearers  and  coolies 
of  different  descriptions,  twelve  tent-pitchers,  and  a guard  of 
twenty  sepoys  under  a native  officer.  The  whimsical  caravan 
filed  off  in  state  before  me  ; my  servants,  all  arnied  with  spears, 
to  which  many  of  them  had  added,  at  their  own  cost,  sabres  of 
the  longest  growth,  looked,  on  their  little  ponies,  like  something 
between  cossacks  and  sheriff’s  javelin-men ; my  new  Turkoman 
horse,  still  in  the  costume  of  his  country,  with  his  long  squirrel- 
like tail  painted  red,  and  his  mane  plaited  in  love-knots,  looked 
as  if  he  were  going  to  eat  fire,  or  perform  some  other  part  in  a 
melodrama ; while  Mr.  Lushington’s  horses,  two  very  pretty 
Arabs,  with  their  tails  docked,  and  their  saddles  English  (“  Un- 
grigi”)  fashion,  might  have  attracted  notice  in  Hyde-park,  the 
Archdeacon’s  buggy  and  horse  had  every  appearance  of  issuing 
- from  the  back  gate  of  a college  in  Cambridge  on  a Sunday 
morning;  and  lastly  came  some  mounted  gens  d’armes,  and  a 
.sword  and  buckler-man  on  foot,  looking  exactly  like  the  advanced 
guard  of  a Tartar  army.  Rain,  however,  long  prayed  for,  but 
which  was  now  an  inconvenience  to  us,  prevented  our  starting 
all  together,  and  it  was  late  in  the  evening  before  we  arrived  at 
Cooseah,  sixteen  miles  from  Allahabad,  where  we  found  two  ex- 
cellent tents,  of  three  apartments  each,  pitched  for  our  reception, 
and  the  tea-kettle  boiling  under  the  shade  of  some  stately  trees  in 
a wild  country  of  ruins  and  jungle,  now  gemmed  and  glowing 
with  the  scattered  fires  of  our  cofilah. 

This  was  the  first  night  1 ever  passed  under  canvass,  and, 
independent  of  its  novelty,  1 found  the  comforts  of  my  dwelling 
* VoL.  L— 37 


^90 


CARAVAN. 


greatly  exceed  my  expectation.  The  breeze  blew  in  very  fresh 
and  pleasantly  through  the  tent  door,  the  ground,  covered  with 
short  withered  grass,  was  perfectly  dry,  though  rain  had  so  lately 
fallen,  and  my  bed  and  musquito-curtains  were  arranged  with 
as  much  comfort  as  in  Calcutta.  The  only  circumstance  which 
struck  me  as  likely  to  be  annoying  even  to  a lady,  was  the  pub- 
licity of  the  situation, — her  bed  within  a few  inches  of  an  open 
door,  a body  of  men-servants  and  soldiers  sleeping  all  round  that 
door,  and  a sentry  pacing  backwards  and  forwards  before  it.  After 
all,  however,  this  publicity  is  more  apparent  than  real.  The 
check  of  the  tent  prevents  effectually 'any  person  from  seeing  what 
passes  within  who  does  not  come  purposely  up  to  peep,  and  this 
the  sentry  would  not  allow. 

At  five  o’clock  on  the  morning  of  October  first  we  again  began 
our  march,  and  proceeded  about  twelve  miles,  to  the  second 
customary  station,  called  Cussiah,  a grove  of  neem-trees,  more 
extensive  than  that  which  we  had  left,  and  at  a small  distance 
from  a large  but  ruinous  village.  We  passed  through  a country 
much  wilder,  worse  cultivated,  and  worse  peopled  than  any  which 
I had  seen  in  India.  What  cultivation  there  was  consisted  of 
maize,  growing  very  tall,  but  sadly  burnt  by  the  continued  drought. 
This,  however,  was  only  in  patches,  and  the  greater  part  of  the 
prospect  consisted  of  small  woods,  scattered  in  a very  picturesque 
manner  over  a champaign  country,  with  few  signs  of  habitations, 
and  those  most  of  them  in  ruins.  I was  strongly  reminded  of  the 
country  of  the  Tchemoi-morski  cossacks,  to  which  the  groups  of 
people  in  dresses  nearly  similar,  and  all  armed,  who  passed  us 
on  the  road,  undoubtedly  in  a great  measure  contributed.  I had 
been  disposed  to  wonder  at  Colonel  Francklin’s  counsel  to  buy 
spears  for  my  servants,  and  at  the  escort  which  had  been  ordered 
me  ; but  I soon  found,  that,  whether  necessary  or  not,  such  pre- 
cautions were  at  least  customary.  Every  traveller  whom  we  met, 
even  the  common  people  going  to  market,  had  either  swords  and 
shields,  spears,  or  match-lock  guns,  and  one  man  had  a bow  and 
quiver  of  arrows,  in  that  circumstance,  as  well  as  in  his  dress  and 
person,  extremely  resembling  a Circassian  warrior.  The  road 
was  rugged;  nothing  indeed,  so  far  as  I had  yet  seen,  could  appear 
more  unfounded  than  the  assurances  which  I have  heard  in  Cal- 
cutta, that  an  open  carriage  is  an  eligible  method  of  travelling  in 
the  Dooab,  on  any  other  ground  than  cheapness.  I have  been 
often  told  that  the  road  as  far  as  Meerut  would  answer  perfectly 
for  a gig.  The  fact  is,  there  are  no  roads  at  all,  and  the  tracks 
which  we  follow  are  very  often  such  as  to  require  care  even  on 
horseback.  By  driving  slowly,  no  doubt  a gig  may  go  almost  any 
where,  but  it  is  any  thing  but  an  agreeable  pastime  to  drive  along 
tracks  which,  when  beaten,  are  so  poached  by  the  feet  of  horses 


THE  DOOAB. 


291 


and  cattle,  and  so  hardened  by  the  sun  as  to  resemble  a frozen 
farm-yard,  while  if  the  traveller  forsakes  these  roads,  he  encoun- 
ters cracks  deep  and  wide  enough  to  break  his  wheels.  Here  and 
there  is  a tolerably  level  mile  or  two,  but  wnth  a few  such  excep- 
tions, there  is  no  fast  or  pleasant  driving  in  this  part  of  India. 

Both  men  and  women  whom  we  met  on  the  road,  I thought 
decidedly  taller,  fairer,  and  finer  people  than  the  Bengalees. 
Some  of  the  sepoys,  indeed,  of  a regiment  who  passed  us,  were 
of  complexions  so  little  darker  than  those  of  Europe,  that  as  they 
approached  1 really  at  first  took  them  for  Europeans.  Every 
thing  seems  to  assimilate  gradually  to  the  scenes  and  habits  of 
the  eastern  and  southern  parts  of  Europe.  The  people  no  longer 
talk  of  their  daily  Hce,  but  say  “ it  is  time  to  eat  bread  to-day.” 
Instead  of  the  softness  and  gentleness  so  apparent  in  those  Indians 
whom  we  first  saw,  these  men  have  a proud  step,  a stern  eye, 
and  a rough  loud  voice,  such  as  might  be  expected  from  people 
living  almost  always  in  the  open  air,  and  in  a country  where,  till 
its  acquisition  by  the  English,  no  man  was  sure  that  he  might  not 
at  any  moment  be  compelled  to  fight  for  his  property.  Much  of 
this  necessity  is  passed  away,  but  something  yet  remains.  The 
nation  is  still  one  of  lawless  and  violent  habits,  containing  many 
professed  thieves, and  many  mercenary  soldiers,  who,  in  the  present 
tranquillity  of  the  country,  are  at  any  instant  ready  to  become 
thieves ; and  the  general  sense  of  moral  feeling  is,  in  this  particular, 
so  low,  that  one  ceases  to  wonder  that  banditti  are  from  time  to 
time  heard  of,  and  that  every  body  finds  it  desirable  to  take  his 
arms  with  him  on  a journey. 

I was  greatly  pleased  with  my  new  horse,  but  I was  annoyed 
in  the  course  of  the  ride  by  one  of  his  shoes  breaking.  At  Cassiah 
I inquired  of  the  “ tussildar,”  or  tacksman,  a very  decent  sort  of 
gentleman-farmer,  where  a smith  could  be  obtained,  and  he  told 
me  to  my  sorrow  that  the  people  of  the  country  seldom  shod 
their  horses,  and  that  I should  not  meet  with  one  nearer  than 
Futtehpoor,  a distance  of  three  days’  journey.  There  was  no 
remedy  but  patience,  and  I had  my  horse  led  as  quietly  as  possible. 
In  other  things  there  was  enough  to  occupy  my  attention,  as  I 
was  assailed  by  complaints  from  every  part  of  the  cofilah,  of  some 
deficiency  or  other  in  our  equipments,  or  some  experienced  or 
apprehended  inconvenience.  My  own  tents  were  found  to  be  so 
large  as  to  require  elephants  to  carry  them,  the  camels  were  too 
few,  and  some  of  them  very  weak,  there  were  no  “ sitringees,” 
or  tent-carpets,  and  no  tent  for  the  sepoys.  In  the  midst  of  all 
this  hubbub,  it  began  to  rain  hard,  and  the  camp-followers  with 
one  consent  began  to  say  that  we  must  halt  next  day  to  supply 
these  deficiencies,  and  to  dry  the  tents',  which,  being  so  large, 
could  not  be  carried  in  a wet  state.  To  halt  on  a Saturday  I 


292 


THE  DOOAB.. 


was  very  unwilling,  inasmuch  as  1 had  always  proposed  to  rest 
■ on  the  Sunday  following.  I did  my  best,  therefore,  to  persuade 
them  to  get  on  with  all  w^hich  could  be  done  that  day,  and  since 
the  camels  were  too  few,  applied  to  the  tussildar  for  some  hacke- 
ries to  help  them.  Even  to  this,  however,  the  poverty  of  the 
village  was  unequal,  and  1 was  glad  to  obtain  four  baggage-oxen, 
to  make  up  the  deficiency  in  the  Company’s  appointments.  Mean- 
time arrived  a sepoy,  with  sitringees  from  General  Morley,  and 
1 sent  back  by  him  some  of  the  most  useless  articles  of  our  equi- 
page, thus  materially  lightening  one  of  the  heaviest  laden  camels. 
The  rest  were  relieved  by  the  accession  of  the  oxen,  and  if  the 
tents  got  dry,  the  ‘‘  clashees”  (tent-pitchers)  again  allowed  that 
we  might  proceed  in  the  morning  prosperously.  The  evening 
was  fair  and  very  pleasant,  and  we  all  found  abundant  interest 
and  employment  in  walking  round  the  motley  groups  of  men  and 
animals  which  made  up  our  caravan,  seeing  the  camels,  horses,  and 
oxen  fed,  and  talking  with  the  tussildar,  who,  with  a little  retinue 
of  swords,  shields,  and  spears  behind  him,  again  made  his  appear- 
ance. I attempted  to  have  some  conversation  with  the  jemautdar, 
who  commanded  the  sepoys,  but  found  him  a very  shy  and 
modest  man,  little  disposed  to  talk,  while  for  asking  many  ques- 
tions my  language  was  hardly  sufficient ; to  him  and  the  soldiers 
I gave  up  some  of  the  servants’  tents,  as  they  had  been  completely 
overlooked  by  the  Commissariate  at  Allahabad. 

In  the  course  of  this  evening  a fellow,  who  said  he  was  a Gao- 
wala,  brought  me  two  poor  little  leverets,  which  he  said  he  had 
just  found  in  a field.  They  were  quite  unfit  to  eat,  and  the 
bringing  them  was  an  act  of  cruelty  of  which  there  are  few  in- 
stances among  the  Hindoos,  who  are  generally  humane  to  wild 
animals.  In  this  case,  on  my  scolding  the  man  for  bringing  such 
poor  little  things  from  their  mother,  all  the  crowd  of  camel-drivers 
and  camp-followers,  of  whom  no  inconsiderable  number  were 
around  us,  expressed  great  satisfaction  and  an  entire  concurrence 
in  my  censure.  It  ended  in  the  man  promising  to  take  them 
back  to  the  very  spot  (which  he  described)  where  he  had  picked 
them  up,  and  in  my  promising  him  an  ana  if  he  did  so.  To  see 
him  keep  his  word,  two  stout  wagonner’s  boys  immediately 
volunteered  their  services,  and  I have  no  doubt  kept  him  to  his 
contract. 

October  2. — The  night  was  drizzly,  so  that  when  I arose  at 
four  in  the  morning  1 found  the  tent  too  wet,  in  the  opinion  of 
the  Tindals,  for  the  camels  to  bear  it.  About  eight  o’clock,  how- 
ever, a drying  wind  having  sprung  up,  we  were  enabled  to  send 
off  the  two  small  “ routees,”  (or  breakfast  tents,)  to  serve  as  a 
shelter  till  the  arrival  of  the  larger  tents,  and  partly  on  horseback, 
partly  in  my  palanquin,  I reached  a place  a few  miles  short  of 


CURRAH. 


293 


our  destined  station  before  noon.  At  Coty,  our  halting  place, 
we  remained  till  the  cool  of  the  evening,  and  then  went  on  to 
Camaulpoor,  near  Currah.  Here  we  encamped  amid  a vast  field 
of  tombs  and  ruins,  (of  the  former  our  guide  said  there  was  “ a 
lack  all  save  five,”)  and  the  whole  scene,  with  its  jungle,  and 
deserted  appearance,  was  singularly  picturesque  and  romantic. 
The  inhabited  part  of  Currah  is  still,  however,  considerable,  and 
we  soon  found  that  there  were  people  in  the  neighbourhood,  by 
the  number  of  little  shops  at  once  set  up  under  the  trees  around 
us,  with  an  eye  to  our  custom. 

Currah  owes  its  fame,  it  seems,  and  stately  buildings  to  a cele- 
brated saint  named  Camaul  Shek,  who,  with  his  son  and  several 
of  his  disciples,  lies  buried  here.  The  tomb  is  still  in  tolerable 
repair,  which  is  more  than  can  be  said  of  any  of  the  others,  which 
have  been  splendid,  but  are  now  mere  ruins,  in  a grave  and  solemn 
style  of  architecture,  being  a square  tower  pierced  on  each  front 
with  elegantly  formed  and  carved  gothic  door-ways,  and  sur- 
mounted with  a dome  of  a very  judicious  form,  and  harmonizing 
with  the  general  character  of  the  building,  not  being  semi-circular 
but  conical,  and  in  the  same  form  of  a gothic  arch,  as  is  displayed 
in  the  other  arches  of  the  building.  Besides  this  large  chapel  are 
many  raised  tombs,  of  different  sizes,  from  small  terraces,  with 
kiblas  for  prayers,  down  to  stone  coffins  as  they  are  sometimes 
called  in  England,  and  as  they  are  found  in  similar  forms,  and 
with  nearly  the  same  ornaments,  in  our  old  cathedrals.  These 
ruins  and  sepulchres  reminded  me  of  Caffa ; but  there  was  no 
other  similarity ; instead  of  the  bare  rocks  which  surround  that 
ancient  city,  we  had  a grove  of  noble  trees,  under  which  our  horses, 
camels,  and  bullocks  were  disposed  in  different  clusters,  and  the 
tents,  the  fires,  the  baskets  of  fruits,  rice,  ghee,  &c.,  exposed  for 
sale,  and  the  varied  and  picturesque  costume  of  the  crowd  assem- 
bled under  it,  the  red  uniform  of  the  sepoys,  the  white  garments 
of  our  own  servants,  the  long  veils  and  silver  ornaments  of  the 
female  villagers,  and  the  dark  mantles,  dark  beards,  and  naked 
limbs  of  the  male  peasantry  and  coolies,  mingled  with  the  showy 
dresses,  swords,  shields,  and  spears  of  the  Chuprassies,  gave  the 
whole  scene  the  animated  and  interesting  effect  of  an  eastern 
fair ; an  effect  which  the  east,  perhaps,  can  alone  supply,  and 
which  I greatly  regretted  my  want  of  skill  to  convey  effectually 
to  my  friends  in  Europe.  My  dear  wife  will,  I trust,  sooner  or 
later,  see  many  such  scenes  in  my  company. 

These  tombs,  ruins,  and  jungles  are  favourable  to  robbery,  for 
which  Currah  and  Camaulpoor  bear  a very  bad  name,  and  an 
additional  body  of  ten  Chuprassies,  besides  the  four  sepoy  sen- 
tries, were  thought  necessary  by  the  Zemindar  of  Currah  to  keep 
watch  at  night  over  our  extensive  encampment. 


294 


PYZEE  MUSSEEH. 


October  S.—This  day  being  Sunday  was  a day  of  rest  to  us  all, 
and  to  none  of  us  I believe  was  it  unacceptable.  Its  value  to  the 
animals,  soldiers,  and  labourers,  was  never  perhaps  so  powerfully 
impressed  on  my  mind,  as  now  that  I saw  them  round  me,  after 
three  days  of  great  fatigue,  in  the  actual  enjoyment  of  a twenty- 
four  hours’  repose  and  relaxation.  I had  church  in  my  tent, 
which,  besides  our  two  families  and  Abdullah,  was  attended  by 
two  of  Mr.  Corrie’s  former  converts,  Fyzee  Musseeh  and  Anund 
Musseeh,  who  joined  him  at  Benares,  and  are  attending  him  up 
the  country.  The  latter  is  a fine  young  man,  who  speaks  and 
reads  English  well.  Fyzee  Musseeh  understands  it  but  imper- 
fectly, except  in  reading,  but  is  an  interesting  and  remarkable 
person.  He  is  the  son  of  a wealthy  Ryut  near  Moradabad,  who, 
though  himself  a Hindoo,  sent  his  son  to  a celebrated  Mussulman 
preceptor,  in  the  hope  that  a knowledge  of  Arabic  and  Persian 
would  recommend  him  to  the  service  of  the  king  of  Oude.  The 
lessons,  however,  which  the  young  idolater  received  opened  his 
eyes  to  the  absurdity  of  the  religion  which  he  had  hitherto  pro- 
fessed. He  turned  Mussulman,  was  circumcised,  and  received 
the  name  of  Fyzee  Mohammed,  and  was  regarded  for  several 
years  as  one  of  the  most  promising  students  among  “ the  true 
believers.”  His  increased  knowledge,  however,  of  his  new  creed 
was  far  from  satisfying  him  of  its  proceeding  from  God,  and  he 
was  still  more  induced  to  waver  by  learning  that  a very  holy 
Mussulman  saint  in  the  neighbourhood  had,  on  his  death-bed, 
confessed  that  he  found  no  comfort  but  in  the  words  of  Jesus  the 
son  of  Mary.  To  obtain  a knowledge  of  these  words,  he  went 
to  a Romish  priest  at  Lucknow,  and  applied  to  him  for  a copy  of 
the  Gospel.  The  priest  took  considerable  pains  with  him,  but 
Fyzee  Mohammed  no  sooner  saw  the  images  in  his  chapel  than 
he  cried  out  that  this  could  never  be  the  religion  of  which  he  was 
in  quest,  and  undertook  another  journey  in  search  of  Mr.  Cham- 
berlain, the  Baptist  minister,  who  was  then  in  the  service  of  the 
Begum  Sumroo.  He  had  but  little  conversation  with  him,  but 
obtained  the  book  he  wanted,  which  completely  convinced  him, 
till  he  was  again  dissatisfied  with  the  explication  which  he  ob- 
tained of  some  of  the  difficult  passages.  He  at  length  went  to 
Agra,  another  long  journey,  and  after  staying  some  time  in  Mr. 
Corrie’s  neighbourhood,  was  baptized  into,  and  has  ever  since 
continued  a steady  member  of,  the  Church  of  England,  under  the 
name  of  Fyzee  Musseeh.  He  is  a little  man,  middle  aged,  with 
a very  mild  and  meditative  cast  of  countenance,  of  no  talent  for 
public  speaking,  and  his  whole  manner  reserved,  shy,  and  timid. 
He  is,  however,  an  admirable  scholar  in  every  part  of  eastern 
learning,  of  much  disinterestedness  and  modesty,  reads  English 
pretty  well,  though  he  is  too  diffident  to  speak  it,  and  is  still  very 


FYZEE  MUSSEEH. 


295 


greatly  respected  as  a learned  and  holy  man  by  many  both  of  the 
Hindoos  and  Mussulmans.  His  retired  manner  and  want  of 
oratorical  powers  have  as  yet  deterred  Mr.  Corrie  from  recom- 
mending him  as  a missionary  or  catechist,  but  1 am  myself 
inclined  to  believe  that  his  sterling  sense  and  intellectual  powers 
may  well  counterbalance  any  external  deficiencies.  Fyzee 
Musseeh  travels  independently  of  us  on  a pony,  with  one  servant, 
for  his  circumstances  are  respectable.  He  lodges  in  the  caravan- 
serais, and  from  time  to  time  calls  on  the  Archdeacon.  This 
morning  he  brought  a singular  account  of  a conversation  he  had 
had  the  night  before  with  a stranger,  a Hindoo  in  outward  ap- 
pearance, who,  on  entering  the  serai,  drew  his  carpet  near  him, 
and  conversed  on  indifferent  subjects  till  the  usual  hour  of  Mus- 
sulman prayer,  when,  supposing  him  to  be  a Mussulman, he  said, 
“ 1 will  pray  with  you,”  and  chanted  a distich  which  Mohamme- 
dans are  in  this  country  fond  of  repeating  : 

“ If  the  grandson  of  Jesus  had  died  for  the  sins  of  men, 

Then  all  the  Christians  would  have  been  Mussulmans.” 

The  meaning  of  this  couplet  is  not  very  easy  to  make  out.  All  I 
can  conjecture  is,  that  there  is  some  confusion  between  sister’s 
son,  or  cousin,  and  grandson,  the  name  of  Agawzee  being,  though 
less  properly,  applicable  to  these  relations  likewise,  that  an  allu- 
sion is  made  to  the  notion  entertained  by  Mussulmans,  that  our 
Lord  himself  was  not  crucified,  but  taken  up  to  heaven,  and  that 
Judas  was  executed  in  his  stead,  and  in  his  likeness : and  lastly, 
that  they  confound  Judas,  or  Jude,  the  relation  of  our  Lord,  (not 
Iscariot,)  with  the  traitor,  and  that  they  mean  to  say,  that  had  the 
atonement  on  the  cross  been  what  Christians  suppose,  they  would 
have  been  the  true  professors  of  Islam,  and  the  subsequent  mis- 
sion of  Mohammed  would  have  been  unnecessary.  Be  this  as  it 
may,  the  couplet  gave  occasion  to  Fyzee  Musseeh  to  set  his  new 
acquaintance  right  as  to  many  particulars  in  the  history  of  Christ, 
to  which  the  man  listened  with  profound  attention.  When  he 
had  ended,  he  asked  some  very  pertinent  questions,  and  at  length 
said,  “ May  God  reward  you,  sir  ! God,  I believe,  has  sent  me 
to  this  place  to  meet  you,  for  you  have  told  me  much  which  I did 
not  know  before,  and  much  that  I was  desirous  of  learning.  I 
am  a Hindoo,  but  have  been  for  some  time  a searcher  after  truth, 
and  was  inclined  to  turn  Mussulman,  if  I had  not  found  that  the 
Mussulmans  also  acknowledged  Eesa  as  a prophet,  and  that  there- 
fore it  was  desirable  to  learn  something  of  his  religion  in  the  first 
place.  1 shall  now  pray  to  God  and  to  Jesus  to  guide  me  farther.” 
They  prayed  together,  and  parted  next  morning,  the  man  saying 
that  Fyzee  Musseeh  should  hear  from  him  again. 

This  is  interesting  in  itself,  and  on  many  accounts ; but  it  is 


296  VISIT  FROM  ZEMINDAR. 

particularly  curious,  inasmuch  as  Fyzee  Musseeh  says  it  is  only 
one  of  many  symptoms  of  a considerable  change  taking  place  in 
the  Hindoo  mind,  a growing  contempt  of  idolatry,  and  an  anxiety 
after  other  forms  of  belief.  At  present  he  says  the  Mussulmans 
get  many  converts.  Ere  long,  perhaps,  Christianity  also  may 
come  in  for  its  share  of  the  harvest. 

Fyzee  Musseeh  was  not  our  only  visiter ; the  Zemindar,  a very 
well  dressed  and  gentlemanly  man,  on  a good  horse,  and  with  a 
greater  retinue  than  usual,  also  called  and  sate  some  time.  Mr. 
Ward,  the  collector  of  Allahabad,  had  prepared  us  to  expect  him, 
and  told  us  that  he  was  a man  of  good  family,  and  respectable 
character.  The  conversation  was,  of  course,  general  enough,  till 
I luckily  introduced  the  subjects  of  field-sports,  on  which  he  was 
eloquent.  I observed,  that  there  was  much  jungle  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, and  asked  if  there  were  any  tigers.  “ Tigers  ! No,” 
said  he,  ‘‘not  for  several  years  back;  and  as  for  jungle,  there  is 
three  times  as  much  cultivated  land  now  as  there  used  to  be 
under  the  government  of  the  Vizier.  Then  there  were  tigers  in 
plenty,  and  more  than  plenty ; but  there  are  better  things  than 
tigers  now,  such  as  corn  fields,  villages,  and  people.  However, 
in  the  jungle  which  still  remains,  we  have  deer,  wuld  hogs,  and 
arnu^  This  latter  name  belongs  to  a species  of  gigantic  buffalo, 
which  1 had  understood  to  be  very  uncommon,  but  which  it  seems, 
though  rare,  is  here  sometimes  to  be  met  with.  The  thickest 
jungles,  he  said,  were  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  they  were 
the  most  abundant  in  game  of  every  kind.  On  the  whole  it  is 
curious  and  interesting  to  find  both  the  apparently  progressive 
improvement  of  the  country  under  the  improvement  of  the  British 
government,  as  contrasted  wdth  its  previous  state,  and  also  how 
soon,  and  how  easily,  in  a settled  country,  the  most  formidable 
wild  animals  become  extinct  before  the  power  of  man.  The 
tiger  will  soon  be  almost  as  great  a rarity  in  our  eastern  as  in  our 
western  dominions ; the  snake,  however,  will  hold  his  ground 
longer.  I forgot  to  mention,  that  while  at  Allahabad  I was  one 
night  roused  by  the  entrance  of  several  men  armed  with  sticks 
and  spears.  Abdullah,  who  was  at  their  head,  called  out,  “ Lie 
still,  my  lord  ; these  people  have  seen  a very  large  chichta  (cobra 
di  capello)  creep  into  your  window.”  1 did  not  lie  still,  how- 
ever, but  got  a stick  and  joined  the  party ; after  an  accurate 
search  nothing  was  found  except  a large  hole  in  the  floor,  into 
which,  probably,  the  animal  had  made  its  escape.  The  bearers 
might  have  killed  him  when  they  first  saw  him,  but,  unless  they 
are  urged  to  do  so,  they  seldom  will,  from  their  superstitious 
veneration  for  serpents,  a feeling  very  common  among  the  Hin- 
doos, and  which  accounts,  in  part,  for  the  number  of  snakes  yet 
found  in  these  provinces.  Next  morning  a farther  search  was 


VISIT  FROM  AN  IMAM. 


297 


made,  but  nothing  found;  and  1 could  observe  that  this  double 
discovery  of  snakes  entering  my  bed  room,  was  considered  . by 
my  Hindoo  servants  as  a sign  of  great  good  luck,  and  raised  me 
in  their  estimation. 

We  had  yet  another  visiter ; the  Imam  of  the  neighbouring 
mosque,  a very  handsome  man,  with  a splendid  beard,  a cheerful, 
though  rather  sarcastic  countenance,  and  two  of  the  merriest, 
most  intelligent  eyes  that  I have  seen,  called,  as  he  said,  in  his 
capacity  of  Padre,  to  oifer  his  respects  to  his  Bishop,  He  had 
been  a pilgrim  to  Mecca  and  Medina,  had  visited  Jerusalem, 
Mount  Sinai,  and  Cairo,  and  had  testimonials  from  a Greek 
Archimandrite  at  Bethlehem  to  his  good  character  and  good 
acquirements.  He  sate  with  us  some  time,  and  I was  able  to 
understand  him  very  tolerably.  Mr.  Corrie  was  much  amused 
with  him,  and  said  he  was  a good  specimen  of  a travelled  worldly 
Mussulman,  with  little  seriousness  in  his  peculiar  creed,  and  pro- 
bably few  thoughts  of  religion  at  all.  1 asked  him  to  drink  coffee, 
telling  him  that  he  must  know  very  well  that  in  Turkey,  Egypt, 
and  Arabia,  Mussulmans  and  Christians  eat  together  without 
scruple.  He  bowed,  and  answered  with  a smile,  “ 1 know  that 
well,  my  lord,  but  it  is  not  the  custom  in  this  country.”  He  was 
pleased,  however,  with  the  offer,  and  said,  with  my  permission, 
since  we  seemed  curious  about  his  travels,  he  would  return  in  the 
evening  and  bring  his  journal,  which  he  had  kept  regularly.  I 
answered,  that  if  his  journal  was  as  entertaining  as  his  conversa- 
tion, he  might  find  it  worth  his  while  to  get  it  printed  at  Calcutta. 
In  the  evening,  however,  it  turned  out  to  be  a very  short  and  dry 
diary,  merely  curious  to  a person  making  a map.  Indeed,  to  do 
him  justice,  when  I talked  about  printing  it  at  first,  he  shook  his 
head,  as  if  he  thought  it  would  not  answer.  He  now  told  us  how 
it  came  to  pass  that  he  first  went  to  Mecca.  A certain  Mussul- 
man of  good  connections,  and  bred  a soldier,  had  been,  after  the 
late  pacification  of  India  by  Lord  Hastings,  completely  thrown 
out  of  employment.  In  his  distress  what  to  do,  he  applied  to  a 
relation  high  in  the  service  of  the  Nawab  Vizier,  for  help  and 
advice,  whose  answer  was  “ Turn  Saint.”  “ How  so!”  was  the 
reply;  “ every  body  knows  that  my  life  has  not  been  saintly  1” 
‘‘  But  your  beard,”  said  the  adviser,  “ is  very  much  so,  and  a few 
weeks  will  enable  you  to  assume  the  proper  tone  and  carriage. 
1 have  a brother  who  is  a man  of  acknowledged  learning  and 
holiness;  I will  get  him  to  countenance  you,  and  introduce  you 
to  different  devout  Mussulmans,  and  then  you  have  only  to  get 
disciples,  and  you  will  live  very  well.”  He  did  so, — put  on  a 
coarse  raiment  and  a sad  exterior,  preached  up  pilgrimage  to 
Mecca,  declared  himself  ready  to  conduct  a caravan  thither,  and 
soon  found  people  enough,  among  whom  our  guest  was  one,  to 
VoL.  I.— 38 


298 


INDIAN  ARMY— CHOUBEE  SERAI. 


follow  him  and  subscribe  their  money  for  this  holy  undertaking. 
The  profits,  however,  he  made  during  the  voyage,  and  by  a 
dustoory"^  on  all  the  alms  either  given  or  received  by  the  party, 
were  so  considerable,  that  on  his  return  some  of  his  confidential 
disciples  had  a quarrel  with  him  for  a more  equal  distribution  of 
booty,  and  scandal  arose,  which  compelled  the  saint  to  go  and 
make  disciples  elsewhere.  “ Nevertheless,”  said  the  Hajee  who 
gave  us  this  account,  composing  his  face  to  a due  expression  of 
gravity,  “ he  is  doubtless  a holy  man,  and  of  great  eloquence.”  I 
suspect  our  visiter  may  have  been,  on  this  occasion,  not  one  of 
the  geese,  but  the  foxes. 

October  4. — We  went  this  morning  to  a station  named  Choubee 
Serai,  through  a country  differing  little  from  that  which  we  had 
passed  already.  In  the  march  we  met  a strong  column  of  infantry, 
about  2,300  men,  with  a long  train  of  baggage,  elephants,  camels, 
bullocks,  and  camp-followers,  on  their  march  from  Cawnpoor  to 
the  eastward.  The  groups  afforded  by  the  line  of  march,  the 
little  parties  halting  under  trees,  the  loaded  animals,  the  native 
women  conveyed  in  “ dhoolies,”  or  litters,  and  hackeries,  the 
naked  limbs  of  the  baggage-drivers  and  camp-followers,  the 
different  gradations  of  horse,  from  the  wild  shaggy  Tattoo  to  the 
sleek  and  gentle  Arab,  with  the  uniforms  and  arms,  were  some  of 
them  beyond  description  beautiful.  What  would  not  W ouvermans 
have  made  of  an  Eastern  army? 

Some  of  the  sepoys  asked  Mr.  Corrie’s  servants  to  whom  our 
party  belonged,  and  where  we  were  going.  On  being  told  it  was 
the  Lord  Padre  Sahib  going  to  Bombay,  one  of  them  exclaimed, 
“ The  Lord  Sahib  goes  to  the  side  of  Bombay,  we  go  where 
fighting  is!”  It  is  possible  that  he  had  never  heard  of  any  Lord 
Sahib  but  the  Governor-general,  and  was  therefore  naturally 
surprised  to  hear  of  his  going  in  a,  direction  so  contrary  to  that 
where  the  stress  of  public  affairs  called  him.  On  our  arrival  at 
Choubee  Serai,  we  found  the  people  complaining  sadly  of  these 
troops,  who  had,  they  said,  taken  whatever  they  wanted  without 
payment,  had  broken  and  wasted  more  than  they  consumed,  and 
beaten  the  peasantry  for  not  bringing  the  supplies  faster.  The 
laws  of  British  India  are,  in  these  respects,  no  less  just  than  those 
of  England,  and  the  magistrates,  I have  every  reason  to  believe, 
are,  to  the  utmost  of  their  power,  anxious  to  afford  complete  pro- 
tection to  the  people.  There  are  some  articles,  however,  such 
as  grass,  fire-wood,  and  earthen  pots  of  the  cheap  and  coarse  kind 
used  once  for  cooking  a dinner  and  afterwards  broken  by  all 
Hindoos  of  a respectable  caste,  which  the  Zemindars  are  expected 

* A customary  deduction  from  all  money  paid,  given,  or  received  on  any  pos- 
sible occasion,  made  by  the  person  through  whose  hands  it  passes,  and  one  of 
the  most  fruitful  sources  of  cheating  in  India. — Ed. 


CllUELTY  TO  A CAMEL. 


299 


to  furnish  gratis  to  the  Company’s  troops,  and  all  persons  travel- 
ling with  public  “ Purwannus,”  or  Government  orders,  for  which 
the  Zemindars  receive  a yearly  abatement  of  their  taxes,  but 
which  may  sometimes,  when  many  and  extensive  requisitions  are 
made,  press  hard  on  the  poor  Ryuts.  I was,  therefore,  as  careful 
as  I possibly  could  be  to  ascertain  the  amount  of  the  different 
things  demanded  by  my  people,  or  furnished  by  the  villagers,  to 
take  care  that  no  unreasonable  demands  were  made,  and  that 
nothing  more  than  the  letter  of  the  law  required  was  either  taken 
or  accepted  by  our  people  without  payment.  This  was  the  first 
thing  I did  on  alighting  from  my  horse,  (my  arrival  in  the  camp 
and  that  of  the  supplies  usually  taking  place  about  the  same  time,) 
and  while  a readiness  to  listen  to  all  complaints  obtained  me  from 
the  peasantry  the  name  of  “ Ghureeb-purwar,”  (poor  man’s  pro- 
vider,) the  object  was  easily  accomplished  with  a caravan  so  small 
as  ours.  With  an  army,  however,  of  course,  the  case  is  very 
different,  and  the  officers  at  Cawnpoor  to  whom  I thought  it  right 
to  mention  the  complaints  I had  heard,  said  that  they  feared  the 
sepoys  often  took  provisions  without  payment,  when  the  bustle 
of  a march  and  other  circumstances  rendered  them  secure  from 
the  observation  of  their  European  officers.  Still,  they  said,  the 
neighbourhood  even  of  these  last  was  a great  check  to  them,  and 
the  difference  between  their  minor  encroachments,  and  the  open 
plunder  and  violence  of  a native  prince’s  camp,  was  what  nobody 
could  believe  who  had  not  seen  it. 

Soon  after  I had  got  through  the  complaints  and  difficulties  of 
the  Commissariate,  an  elderly  European,  in  a shabby  gig,  drove 
up,  and  entering  into  conversation  with  Abdullah,  asked  him  some 
questions  about  my  horse.  On  hearing  that  he  had  lost  a shoe, 
he  professed  himself  a blacksmith,  and  said  he  had  been  farrier 
many  years  to  a dragoon  regiment,  and  was  now  a pensioner,  on 
his  way  to  Allahabad  in  search  of  employment  in  his  trade. 
He  produced  some  specimens  of  very  neat  horse-shoes,  and  1 
soon  set  him  to  work  to  remove  the  Indian  shoes,  which  pinched 
my  horse’s  feet,  and  replace  them  with  some  of  a better  fashion. 
He  was  a very  good  and  tolerably  reasonable  workman,  a Lan- 
cashire man  from  the  borders  of  Yorkshire,  with  a dialect  and 
physiognomy  rather  approaching  the  latter  than  the  former 
county.  In  the  evening  he  went  on  to  the  serai  a little  farther, 
having,  as  he  frankly  observed,  “ been  in  vary  gud  luck  to  meet 
us,”  since  he  found  a profitable  job  without  any  delay  in  his 
journey,  and  obtained  a letter  of  recommendation,  as  a neat  artist, 
to  Allahabad.  In  the  course  of  this  evening  my  attention  was 
attracted  by  the  dreadful  groans  of  one  of  our  baggage-camels 
at  some  little  distance  among  the  trees.  I went  to  the  spot,  and 
found  that  two  of  the  “ Sarbanns,”  or  camel-drivei:s,  had  bound 


300 


MUNDISERAL 


its  legs  in  a kneeling  posture,  so  that  it  could  not  rise  or  stir, 
and  were  now  busy  in  burning  it  with  hot  irons  in  all  the  fleshy, 
muscular,  and  cartilaginous  parts  of  its  body.  They  had  burned 
six  deep  notches  in  the  back  of  its  neck,  had  seared  both  its 
cheeks  immediately  under  the  eye,  its  haunches  and  head,  and 
were  now  applying  the  torturing  instrument  to  its  forehead  and 
nostrils.  I asked  what  they  were  doing,  and  they  answered  that 
“ it  had  a fever  and  wind,  and  would  die  if  they  did  not  treat  it 
in  this  manner.”  I called  Abdullah  and  asked  him  if  such  a 
remedy  was  usual.  He  said  it  was  so  in  this  country  and  in 
Persia,  but  that  the  Arabs  in  similar  cases  found  a little  warm 
water-gruel  with  garlic  sufficient.  I should  have  thought  so  too, 
but  the  poor  animal’s  sufferings  were  now  over  for  the  present, 
and  by-and-by  they  actually  gave  it  a large  ball  of  garlic.  It 
was  better,  they  told  me,  some  hours  after,  but  on  renewing 
my  inquiries  in  the  morning,  I heard  that  it  was  finally  released 
from  its  misery. 

October  5. — Another  stage  of  14  miles  to  Mundiserai.  The 
parched  state  of  the  country  had  till  now  threatened  a famine. 
Rain  had  fallen  at  Benares  and  Allahabad,  hut  none  as  yet  in  the 
country  through  which  we  had  marched.  The  fears  expressed 
by  the  poor  people  every  where  had  been  very  touching.  One 
of  the  Tussuldars  had  asked  me  to  pray  for  them,  and  said  with 
a curious  mixture  of  Eastern  compliment  and  undoubted  truth, 
“ We  poor  people  have  had  great  trouble  here,  but  now  your 
worship  is  come,  if  it  pleases  God,  we  shall  have  rain.”  I assured 
him  of  my  prayers,  and  had,  indeed,  used,  both  in  the  church  at 
Allahabad,  and  during  our  morning  and  evening  family  prayers 
of  every  day  for  the  last  fortnight,  the  Collect  containing  that 
petition.  This  morning,  soon  after  we  had  reached  our  encamp- 
ment, their  deep  distress  was  relieved,  and  several  smart  showers 
fell  during  the  day  and  night,  at  which  we  rejoiced  most  sincerely, 
since,  though  for  us  the  dry  weather  was  better,  it  was  impossible 
to  put  our  convenience  in  competition  with  the  food  of  millions. 
The  change  of  weather,  however,  seemed  to  disagree  with  our 
people,  who  were  several  of  them  taken  ill,  but  were  relieved 
by  proper  remedies. 

October  6. — The  march  before  us  being  longer  than  usual,  the 
loaded  wagons  began  to  set  out  soon  after  midnight,  and  Mr. 
Lushington  and  I were  on  horseback  at  three,  to  enable  the 
clashees  to  take  down  our  tents.  The  sky  was  cloudy,  and  as 
we  picked  our  way  with  some  difficulty  in  the  dark,  through 
watery  roads  and  a wild  open  country,  my  recollection  was 
forcibly  drawn  to  those  times  when  my  youngest  brother  and  I 
used  to  ride  some  miles  to  meet  the  mail  in  our  way  to  school, 
and  afterwards  to  college.  Thence  I naturally  passed  to  the  jour- 


FESTIVAL  OF  SEETA. 


301 


nies  of  a riper  age  in  the  same  neighbourhood,  my  wife's  parting 
adieu  and  exhortation  to  take  care  of  myself,  and  to  write  as 
soon  as  I got  to  London,  at  a time  when  we  little  thought  of  ever 
enduring  more  than  a month’s  separation.  Hodnet,  dear  Hod- 
net,  as  we  left  it,  and  as  it  is  now,  Moreton,  and  all  the  names 
and  recollections  connected  with  them,  combined  to  make  me 
sad,  and  I was  obliged  to  turn  my  attention  to  Bombay,  and  the 
meeting  to  which  I look  forwards  there,  to  restrain  some  emotion 
which  I was  not  sorry  the  darkness  concealed.  We  rode  on  in 
silence  about  seven  miles,  when,  in  passing  a village,  we  were 
roused  by  the  lights,  tinsel,  flowers,  mummery,  horns,  gongs,  and 
shouts  of  Seeta,  Rama,  Luchmun,  and  their  followers,  in  the 
concluding  feast  after  the  destruction  of  the  paper  giant  Ravanu. 
The  show  was  really  pretty  at  a certain  distance,  but  the  little 
performers  were  all  sadly  tired,  and  I was  not  sorry,  for  their 
sakes,  that  this  was  their  last  night  of  acting. 

One  of  the  bystanders  told  us  our  road,  which  we  should  other- 
wise have  had  some  difficulty  in  finding,  and  we  went  on  through 
a winding  street,  and  amid  the  mud  walls  of  cow-houses  and 
sheds,  when  a coolie  came  up  to  me  and  said  that  Dinoo,  one  of 
my  sick  servants,  had  fallen  off  his  horse  and  was  dying.  I im- 
mediately went  into  the  watch-house,  arid  found  him  stretched  on 
a mat  which  they  had  brought  out  for  him,  complaining  of  great 
pain,  but  speaking  little  and  moaning  dismally.  I was  much 
shocked,  and  the  more  so  because  1 did  not  know  what  to  give 
him  ; indeed  my  medicine-chest  was  gone  on  with  the  palanquin, 
and  all  the  town,  except  the  watchman,  were  busy  with  the  show. 
I asked  if  they  could  get  a dhooly  for  him,  and  bring  him  on  to 
our  next  station,  Futtehpoor.  The  watchman,  who  was  now 
joined  by  another  man,  said  “ there  were  no  bearers  in  the 
village.”  ‘‘What,”  said  I,  “ all  those  men  whom  I saw  following 
Rama,  can  none  of  them  put  their  shoulders  under  a bamboo  and 
carry  this  poor  man  a few  coss,  when  they  are  sure  of  being  well 
paid  for  it  ?”  “ My  lord,”  was  the  characteristic  answer,  “ they 

are  all  coolies,  not  bearers;  they  can  only  carry  loads  on  their 
heads,  and  cannot  carry  a man !”  1 grew  impatient,  and  said 

that  I insisted  upon  his  being  brought  some  way  or  other,  and  by 
hand,  for  the  motion  of  a hackery  was  more  than  he  could  bear, 
and  that  if  he  was  not  brought  in  three  hours  time  to  Futtehpoor, 
I would  complain  to  the  Cutwal.  I repeated  this  to  the  Jemaut- 
dar  of  the  village,  who  now  made  his  appearance,  and  he  promised 
faithfully  that  help  should  be  forthcoming.  At  length  (an  Eu- 
ropean would  never  guess  how  the  matter  was  settled)  four 
women  came  forward  with  one  of  the  country  cane-bedsteads ; 
the  patient  was  placed  on  it,  and  the  sturdy  lasses  took  it  up  on 
their  heads  like  Cariatides,  and  trudged  away  with  it.  1 left  a 


S02 


FUTTEHPOOR. 


spearman  by  way  of  escort,  and  went  on  before,  but  with  little 
hope  that  the  poor  man  would  reach  the  camp  alive. 

The  day  was  now  breaking,  and  we  went  on  at  a brisker  pace, 
my  young  horse  confirming  me  more  and  more  in  my  good  opinion 
of  him,  till,  while  stopping  to  let  him  drink  in  a plash  of  water, 
he  all  at  once  lay  down  and  began  rolling.  1 was  not  hurt,  and 
the  circumstance  would  not  have  been  worth  mentioning,  had  not 
the  saees  given  as  a reason  for  it,  that  the  Turkomans  fed  their 
colts  with  buffalo’s  milk,  and  that  my  horse  had  probably  thus 
acquired  both  the  fondness  for  water  and  the  folly  of  his  foster 
mother ! Certainly  he  seemed  altogether  unconscious  of  having 
done  wrong,  and  imagined,  perhaps,  that  the  cold  bath  would  be 
as  agreeable  to  me  as  to  himself;  indeed,  1 gave  him  no  reason 
to  suppose  the  contrary,  but  shall  in  future  watch  him  more 
closely  on  similar  occasions. 

The  road  for  some  miles  from  F uttehpoor  lies  over  an  open 
plain,  as  level  as  any  part  of  India,  and  seeming  marked  out  by 
nature  for  the  scene  of  a great  battle,  which  should  decide  the 
fate  of  the  country.  Here  we  were  met  by  the  Cutwal  of  Fut- 
tehpoor,  who,  in  much  civility,  had  come  out  on  horseback  to 
pay  his  respects,  attended  by  the  usual  up-country  retinue  of 
shield  and  spear.  I could  not  help  smiling  as  the  thought  occurred, 
how  different  from  the  “ great  man”  whom  he  probably  expected, 
he  must  have  found  me,  on  a horse,  without  attendants,  or  even 
saees,  and  having  on  every  part  of  my  hat,  jacket,  and  trowsers, 
the  muddy  stains  of  the  nullah.  However,  the  interview  passed 
with  great  propriety  on  all  sides,  but  as  I was  still  wet  and  cold, 
and  his  retinue  could  not  possibly  keep  pace  with  me,  I begged 
him  to  spare  the  compliment  of  accompanying  me  into  the  town. 

F uttehpoor  is  a large  place,  with  more  appearance  of  pros- 
perity than  any  town  1 have  seen  since  Allahabad.  It  contains 
some  tolerably  good  houses,  and  a very  elegant  little  mosque, 
built  within  these  few  years  by  the  nephews  and  heirs  of  the  cele- 
brated eunuch  Almass  Ali  Khan,  long  minister  to  the  Nawab  of 
Oude,  and  who  held  for  many  years  the  whole  southern  and 
western  Dooab  from  Merut  to  Allahabad  in  farm.  He  was  re- 
markable for  his  wealth,  his  attachment  to  the  English,  and,  it 
is  said,  for  his  talents. 

Futtehpoor  is  surrounded,  like  most  of  these  towns,  with 
tombs,  in  the  midst  of  which  our  tents  were  pitched.  Near  us 
was  a large  but  ruinous  serai,  which  had,  however,  more  of  its 
interior  detail  perfect  than  most  which  I have  seen  in  India.  It 
corresponded  in  many  respects  with  those  of  Turkey  and  Grim 
Tartary, — a large  court  with  two  gateways  opposite  to  each  other, 
surmounted  by  towers  not  unlike  those  of  a college,  with  a cloister 
or  verandah  all  round  raised  about  a foot  from  the  ground,  with 


SERAIS. 


303 


a pucka  floor,  and  having  little  fire-places  contrived  against  the 
wall,  just  large  enough  to  hold  the  earthen  pitchers  in  which  all 
the  cookery  of  the  country  is  carried  on,  and  behind  this  a range 
of  small  and  dark  apartments  a step  lo  wer  than  the  verandah.  No 
payment  is  required  for  lodging  here,  except  a few  cowries  to  the 
sweeper,  while  for  a very  few  pice  grass  and  water  will  be  furnished 
to  a traveller’s  beasts,  and  wood  and  earthen  pots  to  himself ; 
for  provisions,  the  neighbouring  bazaar  is  ready.  These  serais 
are  generally  noble  monuments  of  individual  bounty,  and  some 
were  in  ancient  times  liberally  endowed,  and  furnished  supplies 
of  grarn"^,  milk,  and  grass  gratis  to  the  traveller,  as  well  as 
shelter.  Their  foundations  are  most  of  them  alienated,  but  even 
so  far  as  shelter  only  is  concerned,  it  is  a very  great  blessing  in 
this  country,  where  the  general  poverty  of  the  natives,  and  the 
prejudices  of  caste,  forbid  a stranger  hoping  for  admission  into 
any  private  dwelling.  Even  now,  though  ruinous,  they  are  kept 
tolerably  clean,  and  their  benefit  is  so  great  to  all  persons,  whether 
Europeans  or  natives,  who  are  not  rich  enough  to  possess  tents, 
and  occasionally  to  some  even  of  those  who  are,  that  1 rejoice  to 
learn  that  their  restoration  is  one  of  the  objects  proposed  by 
Government  in  the  application  of  the  internal  tolls  to  works  of 
public  improvement. 

The  only  plague  attendant  on  our  present  situation  arose  from 
the  swarms  of  sturdy  Mussulman  beggars,  calling  themselves 
“ Marabouts,”  or  holy  men,  and  living  in  the  tombs  around  us. 
I gave  alms  to  one  old  man  who  addressed  me  by  the  claim  of  being 
a fellow-servant  of  the  same  God,  and  had,  in  consequence,  my 
ears  deafened  for  half  the  morning  by  continued  cries  of  suppli- 
cation from  people  in  the  full  possession  of  youth,  health,  and 
strength,  who  would  not  even  have  thanked  me  for  less  than  half 
a rupee,  and  who  had  about  as  much  sanctity  in  their  appearance 
and  demeanour  as  Friar  Tuck,  or  Fray  Diavolo.  At  last  the 
Archdeacon  went  out,  and  talked  to  them  in  their  own  way,  and 
they  dispersed.  Dinoo,  to  my  surprise,  arrived  in  camp  about 
an  hour  after  us,  very  materially  better,  and  there  seemed  no 
doubt  but  that  in  a dhooly  he  would  be  able  to  proceed. 

There  were  some  hard  showers  during  the  day,  and  the  night 
was  so  rainy,  that  though  the  morning  of  October  7th  seemed 
rather  more  promising,  I gave  up  all  idea  of  attempting  to  stir 
the  tents,  and  sent  Mr.  Corrie  word  to  this  effect.  He  called  on 
me,  however,  to  say  that  he  had  no  doubt  of  being  able,  by  the 
help  of  the  Cutwal,  to  obtain  hackeries  from  the  town  to  carry 
the  flies,  which  are  the  heaviest  parts  of  the  tents  ; that  the  camels 
would  have  no  difficulty  with  the  remainder,  and  that  the  loss 

* A kind  of  vetch  on  which  horses  are  chiefly  fed  in  India. — Ed. 


304 


JOURNEY  TO  KULEAUNPOOR. 


of  a day  now  would  prevent  our  arriving  in  time  for  Sunday  at 
Cawnpoor.  I told  him  that  all  the  natives  said  the  day  would 
be  rainy ; but  he  answered,  that  he  thought  the  clouds  were 
breaking,  and  that  the  natives  never  were  to  be  depended  on 
when  the  question  was  about  moving.  Under  these  circumstances, 
I ordered  the  camels  and  baggage  to  be  got  ready;  having  first 
ascertained  that  there  was  a serai  at  Kuleaunpoor,  where  we 
might  get  shelter  should  our  tents  be  useless.  The  routees  were 
gone  on  ovor-night.  Mr.  Lushington  and  I accordingly  set  out 
immediately,  that  we  might  get  in  before  the  morning  grew  hot, 
and  a dismal  ride  we  had!  I had  anticipated  at  least  some 
showers,  and  was  not  discouraged  by  the  first  or  second  which  fell. 
But  by  the  time  we  had  got  something  less  than  half  way,  it  set 
in  for  a thoroughly  tropical  wet  day,  with  a fierce  N.W.  wind, 
and  thunder  and  lightning,  the  rain  falling  in  a continued  torrent. 
It  was  in  vain  to  stop,  for  we  were  already  wet  to  the  skin,  and 
had  indeed  no  shelter  within  reach,  and  we  had  only  to  keep  our 
horses  steadily  to  the  storm,  and  to  be  thankful  to  God  that  it  did 
not  come  on  before  we  had  day-light  sufficient  to  see  our  way 
through  a wild  and  flooded  country,  where  the  nullahs  were 
already  in  many  places  as  high  as  our  horses’  bellies. 

After  travelling  about  five  miles  in  this  way,  and  when  we  were 
still  four  from  our  halting-place,  we  fortunately  overtook  one  of  the 
palanquins,  in  which  was  a leathern  bottle  of  brandy,  which  did 
us  both  infinite  good.  The  road,  too,  was  now  better,  and  as  his 
horse  was  fresher  than  mine,  Mr.  Lushington  galloped  on,  in  the 
hope  of  getting  a fire  lighted.  I followed  more  leisurely,  passing, 
to  my  concern,  the  greater  part  of  our  baggage  on  the  road,  and 
having,  consequently,  reason  to  apprehend  that  we  should  find  no 
dry  (fclothes  ready  for  us.  In  fact,  I found  Mr.  Lushington  stripped 
to  his  flannel  waistcoat,  and  cowering  over  a little  fire  of  sticks 
and  cow-dung,  in  a shed  of  very  unpromising  appearance,  the 
ground  having  been  by  far  too  wet  to  enable  our  advanced  party 
to  pitch  the  routees,  and  the  serai  turning  out  unfortunately  one  of 
the  worst  and  most  ruinous  of  the  kind.  More  brandy  was  not 
forthcoming,  but  we  added  sticks  to  the  fire,  and  I ordered  break- 
fast, for  which,  fortunately,  the  materials  were  arrived,  while  some 
of  the  advanced  party  of  bearers,  stripping  themselves  naked, 
volunteered  to  go  back,  and  by  their  fresh  strength  help  their 
companions  to  bring  up  the  pettarahs  with  our  clothes,  more 
quickly.  This  answered  well,  as  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  finding, 
when  they  arrived,  that  they  were  really  dry.  Things  now  looked 
more  promising ; our  horses  and  ourselves  were  under  the  common 
shelter  of  the  ruinous  cloister,  with  just  room  for  a little  table 
between  them  and  the  fire.  A crowd  of  poor  shivering  servants 
was  huddled  round  this  on  every  side  but  that  which  we  occupied  ; 


KULEAUNPOOR. 


305 


and  another  ghed  at  some  little  distance  was  used  by  Mr.  Corrie’s 
khansaman  as  cook-room,  and,  should  they  arrive,  would  serve  as 
parlour  and  dressing-room  for  their  party.  But  each  successive 
detachment  of  the  caravan,  as  they  contined  to  drop  in,  gave,  as 
might  be  expected,  worse  and  worse  accounts  of  the  road.  It  was 
“ knee-deep,” — it  was  “ middle  deep,” — it  was  “ half  a spear’s 
depth  in  water.”  Still  the  rain  kept , pouring  on,  but  without 
thunder  or  wind ; and  as  we  looked  from  our  shed  on  the  swim- 
ming dung-hills  of  the  serai,  and  the  poor  wet  camels  patiently 
standing  or  lying  down  among  them,  I thought  what  a whimsical 
contrast  the  scene  offered  to  the  description  in  Irving’s  story  of 
the  “ Stout  Gentleman.” 

Our  caravan  continued  to  arrive  during  the  day,  which  cleared 
up  towards  evening,  but  not  time  enough  to  prevent  all  our 
bedding  from  being  hopelessly  wet  through.  Meantime  we  were 
not  quite  without  employment,  since,  besides  seeing  our  horses 
taken  care  of,  we  had  all  manner  of  complaints  to  adjudicate 
between  the  villagers,  our  servants  and  sepoys,  and  two  compa- 
nies more  of  sepoys  who  were  also  driven  to  shelter.  I could 
not  help  feeling  very  uncomfortable  about  the  Corries  and  their 
children.  The  people  who  came  up  said  they  had  obtained 
shelter  in  the  house  of  a Zemindar,  but  whether  a gig  and  palan- 
quin could  get  through  the  waters  which  were  between  us,  was 
more  than  we  could  form  a judgment  of.  At  length,  just  as  we 
had  given  them  up  and  were  sitting  down  to  dinner,  they  arrived, 
happily  all  well,  and  having  received  a hospitable  entertainment 
from  the  Zemindar  in  question,  at  whose  house  they  had  asked 
permission  to  boil  a little  gruel  for  the  children,  and  who  had 
immediately  invited  them  into  a comfortable  verandah,  and, 
though  a Hindoo,  sent  to  purchase  them  a fowl  and  currie.  The 
archdeacon  expressed  much  unwillingness  to  eat  these  in  his 
house,  knowing,  he  said,  how  strong  a prejudice  would,  a few 
years  since,  have  been  excited  against  such  a step.  But  on  his 
saying,  “ Oh,  do  not  let  us  pollute  your  house,”  the  good  man 
returned  an  answer  which,  Mr.  Corrie  observed, , showed,  more 
than  most  things,  how  fast  caste  was  wearing  away,  “We  have 
different  customs,  but  are  we  not  of  the  same  flesh  and  blood  ? — 
My  house  is  much  honoured  by  your  company.” 

When  the  Corries  saw  what  sort  of  a place  they  were  come 
to,  they  at  first  regretted  that  they  had  not  accepted  the  Zemin- 
dar’s invitation  to  stay  all  night.  His  khansaman,  however,  had 
managed  matters  for  them  better  than  could  have  been  expected, 
and  except  that  their  apartment  admitted  the  rain  in  places,  it 
made  about  as  good  a bed-room  as  a common  blacksmith’s  shed 
in  England  would  have  done,  but  clean,  and  very  sufficient  for 
the  climate.  Our  palanquins  made  excellent  beds,  and  we  had 

VoL.  I.— 39 


306 


JOURNEY  TO  CAWNPOOR. 


SO  many  unexpected  comforts,  my  khansaman  having  provided  an 
excellent  dinner  of  kid  soup  and  bouille,  and  the  chest  of  wine 
having  come  up,  that  we  had  abundant  reason  for  thankfulness, 
which  was  increased  by  finding  that  our  sick  men  were  not  worse 
for  their  journey. 

It  was  evident,  however,  that  the  tents  could  not  again  be 
moved  without  a thorough  drying,  and  as  I had  appointed  Satur- 
day morning  for  the  confirmation  at  Cawnpoor,  Mr,  Lushington 
and  I agreed  with  the  bearers  of  our  palanquins,  for  a trifling 
additional  sum,  to  carry  us  next  day,  two  marches  in  one,  to  that 
station,  should  the  weather  be  such  as  to  make  it  practicable. 
We  left  the  tents,  servants,  and  the  two  police  men  whom  we 
had  brought  from  Allahabad,  with  the  Corries,  and  set  off  our- 
selves after  breakfast  on  the  8th  of  October.  The  day  was  fine, 
and  though  the  roads  were  in  a very  bad  state,  it  was  delightful 
to  hear  the  mutual  congratulations  of  our  bearers  and  the  vil- 
lagers whom  we  passed,  both  parties  full  of  thankfulness  to  God, 
and  considering  themselves,  with  apparent  reason,  as  delivered 
from  famine  and  all  its  horrors.  One  of  these  mutual  felicita- 
tions, which  the  archdeacon  overheard  the  day  before,  was  very 
interesting,  as  it  was  not  intended  for  his  ear,  and  was  one  of  the 
strongest  proofs  I have  met  with  of  the  satisfaction  of  the  Hindoos 
with  their  rulers.  “ A good  rain  this  for  the  bread,”  said  one  of 
the  villagers  to  the  other.  “ Yes,”  was  the  answer,  “ and  a good 
government  under  which  a man  may  eat  bread  in  safety.”  While 
such  a feeling  prevails,  we  may  have  good  hopes  of  the  stability 
of  our  Indian  Government. 

In  crossing  a nuddee,  which  from  a ford  had  become  a ferry, 
we  saw  some  characteristic  groups  and  occurrences  ; the  price  of 
passage  in  the  boat  was  only  a few  cowries,  but  a number  of 
country-folk  were  assembled,  who  could  not,  or  would  not,  pay, 
and  were  now  sitting  patiently  by  the  brink,  waiting  till  the  tor- 
rent should  subside,  or,  what  was  far  less  likely  to  happen,  till 
the  boatmen  should  take  compassion  on  them.  Many  of  these 
poor  people  came  up  to  beg  me  to  make  the  boatmen  take  them 
over,  one  woman  pleading  that  her  “ malik  our  bucher,”  (literally 
master,  or  lord,  and  young  one)  had  run  away  from  her,  and  she 
wanted  to  overtake  them  ; another  that  she  and  her  two  grand- 
children were  following  her  son,  who  was  a havildar  in  the  regi- 
ment which  we  had  passed  just  before ; and  some  others,  that 
they  had  been  intercepted  the  previous  day  by  this  torrent,  and 
had  neither  money  nor  food  till  they  reached  their  homes.  Four 
anas  purchased  a passage  for  the  whole  crowd,  of  perhaps  thirty 
people,  and  they  were  really  very  thankful.  I bestowed  two 
anas  more  on  the  poor  deserted  woman,  and  a whimsical  scene 
ensued.  She  at  first  took  the  money  with  eagerness,  then  as  if 


JOURNEY  TO  CAWNPOOR. 


307 


she  recollected  herself,  she  blushed  very  deeply  and  seemed  much 
confused,  then  bowed  herself  to  my  feet  and  kissed  my  hands, 
and  at  last  said,  in  a very  modest  tone,  “ it  was  not  fit  for  so  great 
a man  as  I was,  to  give  her  two  anas,  and  she  hoped  that  I and 
the  ‘ chota  Sahib’  (little  lord)  would  give  her  a rupee  each !” 
She  was  an  extremely  pretty  little  woman,  hut  we  were  inexora- 
ble, partly,  I believe,  in  my  own  case  at  least,  because  we  had 
only  just  rupees  enough  to  take  us  to  Cawnpoor,  and  to  pay  for 
our  men’s  provisions ; however,  I gave  her  two  more  anas,  my 
sole  remaining  stock  of  small  change. 

When  this  was  all  done,  the  jemautdar  of  the  neighbouring 
village  came  to  ask  for  the  usual  certificate  of  his  having  rendered 
us  assistance.  I wrote  it  out  for  him  on  the  top  of  my  palan- 
quin, having  provided  myself  for  such  purposes  with  paper  and 
Sir  Thomas  Acland’s  inkstand,  when  a new  scene  followed.  He 
was  very  grateful  for  the  good  word  I gave  him,  but  he  had  a 
brother,  a fine  young  man,  now  in  the  service  of  the  Peishwa 
Bajee  Row,  in  the  neighbouring  town  of  Betourah,  but  who  w^as 
anxious  to  get  into  the  Company’s  service,  “ would  I have  the 
goodness  to  give  him  a recommendation  to  the  judge  Sahib  of 
Betourah  ?”  “ 1 do  not  know  the  judge  Sahib  of  Betourah.”  “ But 
Huzoor  (your  worship)  is  Malik  of  the  land,  and  your  Firmaun 
will  be  obeyed.”  ‘‘  Suppose  I could  do  your  brother  any  good, 
I do  not  know  him,  how  shall  I recommend  him  ?”  “ Huzoor  may 
believe  me  when  I tell  him  that  my  brother  is  one  of  the  best 
men  in  the  world !”  “ But  I am  only  a traveller,  and  have  no 

power.”  “ Huzoor  is  pleased  to  say  so — but” in  short,  I 

could  hardly  get  him  away  from  the  palanquin  side,  particularly 
as  I did  not  choose  to  set  off  till  I had  seen  the  poor  people  embark, 
for  whose  passage  I had  paid.  We  then  parted,  the  jemautdar 
still  declaring  that  he  would  follow  me  to  Cawnpoor,  and  bring 
his  brother  with  him. 

The  natives  of  India  seem  to  attach  very  great  importance  to 
a written  recommendation  by  an  European,  or  person  in  a public 
station,  in  which,  as  in  many  other  points,  they  strongly  resemble 
the  Russians.  The  whole  scene  which  1 have  described,  mutatis 
mutandis,  (crucifixes  for  brahminical  strings,  &;c.)  might  have 
occurred  at  a ferry  on  the  Don  or  the  Dnieper.  The  mixture  of 
simplicity  and  cunning,  the  importunity,  the  patience  and  the 
flattery,  seem  to  belong  almost  equally  to  the  peasantry  of  both 
countries,  or  more  accurately  speaking,  perhaps,  to  the  state  of 
society  in  which  they  are  placed. 

W e arrived  between  three  and  four  at  Searsoul,  the  station 
half-way  between  Kuleaunpoor  and  Cawnpoor,  a moderate  sized 
village,  with  some  neat  houses,  and  a handsome  serai.  Our 
people,  however,  were  so  much  tired  wnth  wading  up  to  their 


308 


OAWNPOOR. 


middles  in  water,  that  we  bade  them  get  their  dinners,  and  go  to 
sleep  till  midnight,  when  we  should  again  set  off.  We  ourselves 
did  the  same  as  far  as  dinner  was  concerned,  and  after  a little 
walk  round  the  village,  which  was  completely  insulated  by  the 
inundation,  retired  to  our  palanquins,  which  for  security  we  had 
had  carried  into  the  court-yard  of  the  tannah  or  police-office.  We 
also  engaged  four  mussaulchies,  less  for  their  light,  the  harvest- 
moon  being  sufficient,  than  to  serve  as  guides  through  the  flooded 
country. 

October  9. — The  night  and  morning  were  again  fine,  and  the 
waters  much  abated.  Still  we  were  seven  hours  going  sixteen 
miles,  and  I had  the  disappointment  to  find,  on  arriving  at  Mr. 
Williams’s  house,  that,  despairing  of  my  reaching  Cawnpoor  in 
such  weather,  he  had  sent  round  to  say  that  the  Confirmation  was 
postponed.  It  might,  however,  I found,  be  easily  arranged  for 
Sunday  morning,  and  in  the  hospitality,  cleanliness,  and  comfort 
of  his  house,  we  found  abundant  compensation  for  our  recent 
labours. 

During  my  stay  at  Cawnpoor  not  many  events  occurred  worth 
noticing.  On  Sunday  the  11th,  I confirmed  upwards  of  eighty 
persons,  a considerable  proportion  of  whom  afterwards  received 
the  sacrament.  I visited  on  Monday  the  new  military  hospital 
and  regimental  school  of  the  16th  Lancers,  both  of  which  are  in 
excellent  order.  There  is  one  ward  of  the  former  furnished  with 
tubes  of  a new  invention,  for  the  admission  and  refrigeration  of 
air,  which  is  introduced  through  two  great  valves  like  gigantic 
chimneys  with  cowls  on  them,  and  let  off  through  the  roof  by  a 
multitude  of  small  iron  tunnels  with  heads  like  ventilators.  It  is 
said  to  answer  tolerably,  but  not  better  than  tatties,  which  are 
here  hardly  more  expensive.  Externally  the  machinery  is  a great 
deformity  to  the  building.  The  regimental  school  is  on  the 
national  system,  and  conducted  extremely  well.  An  institution 
of  a wider  scope  and  loftier  pretensions  was  established  some 
years  ago  in  Cawnpoor  for  the  children  both  of  Europeans  and 
natives,  which  obtained  a very  liberal  subscription  from  the 
English  residents,  and  has  since  received  from  Government  a 
handsome  grant  of  400  s.  rupees  per  month.  It  has  an  excellent 
house,  with  good  school-rooms,  an  English  master  and  mistress  at 
a large  salary,  and  a Persian  moonshee,  but  I found  it  attended 
but  by  few  European  and  half-caste,  and  still  fewer  native  child- 
ren, in  deplorable  want  of  books  and  other  similar  supplies,  and 
with  a master  who  had  apparently  been  brought  in  as  a party 
measure,  who  was  previously  altogether  inexperienced  in  the 
improved  system  of  education,  and  actually  declined  to  be 
examined  in  any  of  the  points  most  necessary  to  his  usefulness. 
Except  their  catechism,  which  they  said  well,  there  was  nothing 


CAWNPOOR. 


309 


satisfactory  in  the  appearance,  number,  or  proficiency  of  the 
European  children.  The  native  boys  were  learning  Lindley 
Murray’s  grammar,  without  any  tolerable  knowledge  of  the 
language  in  which  it  is  written,  and  had  for  their  single  class-book 
Joyce’s  Scientific  Dialogues,  which  they  stammered  over  by  rote, 
but  could  none  of  them  construe  into  Hindoostanee.  1 asked  if 
they  had  any  Hindoostanee  books,  and  could  read  them  into 
English  ? If  they  learned  geography,  mathematics,  or  even  wrote 
English  exercises  by  double  translation  or  otherwise  ? Nothing 
of  the  sort  seemed  to  have  entered  the  master’s  head.  He  taught 
them  to  write  a fair  hand,  and  to  work  ridiculous  and  useless 
sums  in  fellowship,  the  double  rule  of  three,  and  this  was  all  his 
ambition.  Archdeacon  Corrie  kindly  undertook,  during  his  stay 
at  Cawnpoor,  to  put  him  into  a better  train,  and  1 wrote  out  a 
list  of  books,  which  1 recommended  to  the  committee  to  supply 
him  with,  as  well  as  some  of  the  primary  and  simplest  elements 
of  Bell’s  system  of  education.  Thus,  I hope,  things  will  be 
amended  ; at  present  they  are  bad  enough,  and  when  compared 
with  the  establishment  at  Benares,  not  at  all  creditable  to  those 
who  have  employed  more  ample  means  with  so  little  judgment. 

Cawnpoor  is  a place  of  great  extent,  the  cantonments  being  six 
miles  from  one  extremity  to  the  other,  but  of  very  scattered  popu- 
lation. Its  population,  however,  abstracted  from  the  civil  and 
military  establishments,  is  still  considerable  ; there  are  many 
handsome  mosques,  and  the  view  of  the  town  from  the  course 
gives  quite  the  idea  of  a city.  The  European  houses  are  most 
of  them  large  and  roomy,  standing  in  extensive  compounds,  and 
built  one  story  high,  with  sloping  roofs,  first  thatched,  and  then 
covered  with  tiles,  a roof  which  is  found  better  than  any  other 
to  exclude  the  heat  of  the  sun,  and  to  possess  a freedom  from  the 
many  accidents  to  which  a mere  thatched  roof  is  liable.  I re- 
ceived much  civility  and  kindness  from  General  Martindell  and 
the  other  military  officers,  and  especially  from  Colonel  Lums- 
daine,  who  took  great  pains  in  getting  our  party  all  which  was 
required  from  the  Commissariate. 

Of  the  climate  of  Cawnpoor  1 had  heard  a very  unfavourable 
account,  which,  however,  was  not  confirmed  by  the  residents, 
who  said  that  during  the  rains  it  was  a very  desirable  situation, 
that  the  cold  months  were  remarkably  dry  and  bracing,  and  that 
the  hot  winds  were  not  worse  than  in  most  other  parts  of  the 
Dooab.  The  great  inconveniences  of  the  place  are,  as  they  repre- 
sent it,  its  glare  and  dust,  defects,  however,  which  are  in  a 
considerable  degree  removed  already  by  the  multitude  of  trees 
which  they  are  planting  in  all  directions.  There  is  no  regular 
Christian  church.  Divine  service  is  performed  alternate  mornings 
and  evenings  in  a thatched  but  convenient  bungalow,  nearly  in 


310 


CAWNPOOR. 


the  centre  of  the  station,  and  in  a riding-house  adjoining  the 
cavalry  barracks.  Government  has  sanctioned  the  building  of 
two  churches,  but  on  a scale,  I am  told,  of  so  rigid  inspection 
and  economy,  that  nobody  will  undertake  the  contract.  The 
shops  in  Cawnpoor  are  large,  and,  though  far  from  showy,  contain 
some  good  things,  which  are  sold  very  little  dearer  than  in  Cal- 
cutta. The  necessaries  of  life  are  barely  half  the  price  which 
they  are  there,  and  an  excellent  house  may  be  rented  for  eighty 
or  ninety  rupees  monthly.  On  the  whole,  it  is  in  many  respects 
one  of  the  most  considerable  towns  which  I have  seen  in  northern 
India,  but  being  of  merely  modern  origin,  it  has  no  fine  ancient 
buildings  to  show  ; the  European  architecture  is  confined  to  works 
of  absolute  necessity  only,  and  marked  by  the  greatest  simplicity, 
and  few  places  of  its  size  can  be  named  where  there  is  so  abso- 
lutely nothing  to  see. 


311 


CHAPTER  XV. 

CAWNPOOR  TO  LUCKNOW. 

ENTRANCE  INTO  THE  KING  OF  OUDE’s  TERRITORIES INCREASE  OF 

GUARDS king’s  SUWARRS AUMEEN ENTRANCE  INTO  LUCKNOW — - 

COURT  CIRCULAR NARROW  STREETS ARMED  INHABITANTS PRIME 

MINISTER RHINOCEROSES DIL-KOUSHAR CONSTANTIA DECEASED 

king’s  wives BREAKFAST  AT  THE  PALACE DISTRIBUTION  OF 

MONEY  AT  THE  GATES KING  BREAKFASTS  AT  THE  RESIDENCY 

PRIVATE  DETAILS  OF  THE  GOVERNMENT CHRISTIANS  AT  LUCKNOW. 

We  left  Cawnpoor  on  Monday  afternoon,  the  18th  of  October, 
having  sent  our  baggage  and  tents  early  in  the  morning  to  the  first 
station,  which  is  only  six  miles  from  the  northern  'bank  of  the 
Ganges,  the  passage  of  which,  by  camels  and  elephants,  usually 
takes  up  a considerable  space  of  time.  The  Ganges  is  still  a 
noble  stream  ; its  width,  at  the  usual  place  of  ferrying,  is,  I should 
think,  not  far  from  a mile  and  a half,  but  it  is  divided  at  this 
season  by  a large  sand-bank,  and  the  water  is  in  many  places 
shallow.  Its  banks  on  both  sides  are  flat  and  ugly,  but  the 
southern  side  has  the  advantage  in  its  numerous  bungalows,  sur- 
rounded by  their  respective  gardens.  We  had  heard  much  of 
the  misgoverned  and  desolate  state  of  the  kingdom  of  Oude  ; boats 
had  been  recently  menaced,  in  their  way  to  Cawnpoor,  by  some 
of  the  villagers  adjoining  the  river,  and  my  guard  had  been 
increased,  without  any  application  from  me,  from  thirty  to  forty- 
five  sepoys,  by  the  obliging  care  of  General  Martindell.  The 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  river  we  certainly  found  uncultivated, 
and  the  peasants  who  passed  us  here  were  still  more  universally 
loaded  with  defensive  and  offensive  weapons  than  those  of  the 
Company’s  territories  in  the  Dooab.  We  found  them,  however, 
peaceable  and  courteous,  though  our  escort  was  mostly  gone 
forward,  and  Mr.  Lushington  and  1 had  cantered  on  by  ourselves, 
leaving  the  remainder  of  the  party  behind,  and  in  fact  had 
repeatedly  to  ask  our  way  as  the  evening  closed  in. 

When  we  arrived  at  our  tents,  a letter  was  put  into  my  hands 
from  Mr.  Ricketts,  the  resident  at  Lucknow,  stating  that  the  king 
of  Oude  had  sent  a purveyor,  or  collector  of  taxes,  (I  hardly  know 
how  to  translate  the  word  “ Aumeen,”)  with  two  chobdars,  and 
ten  “ suwarrs,”  or  horsemen,  to  obtain  supplies  for  us  during  our 
march.  These  persons,  however,  together  with  Mr.  Ricketts’s 


312 


ONNAW. 


own  messenger,  had  expected  us  at  Onnaw,  a village  four  miles 
further  on,  but  a supply  had  been  obtained  by  their  authority  of 
all  which  was  necessary  for  our  present  encampment. 

October  19. — We  started  early  on  two  elephants,  which,  after 
all,  the  good-natured  exertions  of  Captain  Lumsdaine  had  obtained 
for  us,  though  not  till  I had  purchased  a second  horse  for  my 
journey,  a purchase,  indeed,  which  most  of  my  friends  tell  me,  in 
such  a journey,  I shall  not  find  superfluous.  The  elephants  are 
extremely  convenient  in  the  commencement  of  a march,  while 
it  is  yet  too  dark  to  ride  on  horseback  with  comfort ; and  by 
sending  on  our  horses  half  way  to  wait  for  us,  we  have  the  relief 
and  pleasure  of  a ride  during  the  pleasantest  time  of  the  morning. 
It  was  very  dark,  and  the  road  excessively  bad,  through  a country 
naturally  broken  and  marshy,  and  now  rendered  almost  impass- 
able by  the  recent  rains. 

In  the  village  of  Onnaw,  which  we  reached  about  half  past 
four  in  the  morning,  it  was  very  difficult  to  find  our  way,  and 
nobody  was  awake  except  one  poor  foot-traveller,  who,  himself 
a stranger,  had  sat  down  on  the  brink  of  a large  pool,  in  which, 
apparently,  the  only  track  visible  terminated,  and,  wrapped  up 
in  his  mantle,  his  sword  and  shield  under  him,  and  at  intervals 
blowing  the  fusee  of  his  long  matchlock  gun,  was  waiting,  as  he 
said,  for  day,  and  prepared  for  any  possible  attack  which  might 
in  the  meantime  be  made  on  him.  We  did  not  like  to  wait  so 
long,  and  began  knocking  at  the  door  of  the  nearest  house,  a cot- 
tage rather  larger  than  ordinary.  No  answer  was  returned,  and 
my  spearmen  were  at  once  going  to  break  the  door,  or  rather 
gate,  for  it  was  built  round  a small  court-yard.  I forbade  this 
step,  however,  on  which  one  of  the  followers  of  the  elephant 
crept  like  a cat  up  the  mud  wall,  and  dropped  down  inside  of  the 
little  enclosure,  calling  loudly  for  a guide  to  show  the  way.  He 
was  received  with  a volley  of  abuse  in  a female  voice,  which  w^as 
not  at  all  calmed  by  my  assurance  that  she  had  nothing  to  fear, 
and  that,  if  her  husband  would  come  and  show  us  the  way,  he 
should  be  well  paid  for  his  trouble.  She  declared  her  husband 
was  not  at  home,  but  at  last,  as  she  said,  merely  to  get  rid  of  us, 
herself  vouchsafed  to  open  the  gate,  and  give  us  some  few  direc- 
tions. Our  road  we  found,  in  fact,  lay  through  the  pool  I have 
mentioned ; and  she  said,  if  we  kept  well  to  the  right  hand,  with- 
out ^oing  beyond  an  old  tree,  it  was  probable  we  should  find  safe 
footing.  With  these  directions  we  were  fain  to  be  content,  and 
they  carried  us  on  safely. 

We  wondered  all  this  time  that  we  heard  nothing  of  the  king’s 
people,  or  Mr.  Ricketts’s  servant;  shortly  after,  however,  as  the 
day  dawned,  we  saw  the  former  galloping  after  us.  They  were 
mounted  on  very  tolerable  horses,  and  armed  with  sabres  like  the 


PEASANTRY  OF  OUDE. 


313 


suwarrs  of  the  Company’s  magistrates,  bat  extremely  ill-dressed, 
and  more  like  thieves  than  peace-officers  or  soldiers.  The 
Aumeen  and  Mr.  Ricketts’s  servant  had,  they  said,  gone  on  to 
prepare  things  for  our  reception  at  the  encampment,  where  we 
arrived  about  eight  o’clock,  and  found  it  in  a grove  of  trees,  as 
usual,  near  a half-ruined  village,  but  surrounded  with  a greater 
extent  of  well-cultivated  ground  than  we  were  prepared  to  expect 
in  this  neighbourhood. 

The  Aumeen  here  called  on  me,  and  offered  his  nuzzur.  He 
was  a decent  elderly  man,  looking  like  an  Arab  merchant,  and 
was  attended  by  two  of  the  king’s  chobdars,  also  respectable  men, 
and  Mr.  Ricketts’s  servant,  one  of  the  tallest  and  most  powerful 
men  I ever  saw.  They  were  followed  by  a troop  of  country 
people  with  the  usual  supplies,  which  were,  however,  yielded 
very  grudgingly,  and  with  bitter  lamentations,  all  the  crowd,  par- 
ticularly the  women,  declaring  that  they  were  fleeced  to  the  last 
penny.  They  were  apparently  well  satisfied,  and  certainly  a good 
deal  surprised,  however,  on  my  telling  them  that  1 should  pay  for 
the  fowls  and  milk,  and  give  a gratuity  of  two  rupees  among  the 
wood  and  grass  cutters ; the  whole  expense  only  came  to  three 
rupees  and  a half,  so  cheaply  may  a great  deal  of  oppression  be 
remedied  in  this  country! 

Nothing  remarkable  occurred  during  our  continuance  here, 
except  the  care  with  which  the  sarbans,  and  saeeses,  brought  all 
the  animals,  and  every  thing  which  could  be  stolen,  immediately 
under  the  eye  of  the  sentries.  On  ray  observing  this  circum- 
stance, the  reply  was  immediate,  We  are  in  the  Nawab  Vizier’s 
country.”  Hardly  any,  even  of  his  own  people,  call  him  king, 
and  I must  say  his  name  seems  to  be  treated  very  disrespectfully 
under  all  denominations. 

The  waters  were  so  deep  a few  days  ago  in  the  rivers  which 
we  had  passed  during  this  day’s  march,  that  palanquins  were 
floated  over  by  the  help  of  kedgeree-pots,  eight  of  which  were 
competent  to  support  the  vehicle,  with  its  contents.  It  was, 
however,  no  very  agreeable  way  of  passing  a pool  of  deep  water, 
pushed  on  by  people  swimming. 

October  20. — The  journey  this  morning  was  of  seven  very  long 
coss,  through  bad  roads,  with  a deep  river,  and  several  gullies 
made  by  the  recent  rain.  Our  station  was  a large  w^alled  village, 
with  gates,  and  bazar  in  a much  handsomer  style  than  usual,  but 
the  walls  bearing  marks  of  decay,  and  many  of  the  houses  roofless, 
though  the  shops  were  neat,  and  the  appearance  of  the  people 
comfortable  and  thriving.  All  was  quiet  when  we  arrived ; but 
the  servants  who  had  gone  on  before  with  the  breakfast  tents,  had 
found  the  place  in  a state  of  siege.  A large  sum  of  money,  said 
to  be  30,000  rupees,  on  its  way  to  the  treasury  at  Lucknow, 

VoL.  I. — 40 


314 


FALLEN  ELEPHANT. 


had  attracted  a number  of  the  neighbouring  peasantry,  who  were 
assembled  outside  the  walls  with  their  weapons,  waiting  for  the 
departure  of  the  treasure,  while  sentries  were  posted  by  the  escort 
on  all  the  old  towers,  and  the  gates  were  fast  closed.  One  of  our 
servants  applied  for  a passage  in  vain ; the  warders  were  civil,  but 
peremptory,  pointing  to  the  lurking  enemy,  and  asking  how  they 
should  endanger  the  treasure  of  “ the  refuge  of  the  world.”  At 
last,  on  more  of  our  sepoys  coming  up,  and  finding  that  we  were 
strong  enough  to  protect  them,  they  gladly  opened  their  gates,  and 
the  armed  peasantry  dispersed  themselves.  Our  camp  was  fixed 
beyond  the  town,  near  a large  pool  of  water,  amid  some  tall  trees, 
and  having  at  a little  distance  a grove  surrounded  by  a high  wall 
with  a gothic  gateway,  the  garden,  as  we  were  told,  of  a former 
minister  of  Oude,  named  Nawall  Sing,  who  had  built  the  village, 
and  from  whom  it  derived  its  name. 

Adjoining  the  pool  we  saw  a crowd  of  people  assembled  round 
a fallen  elephant;  apprehending  that  it  was  one  of  our  own,  I 
urged  my  horse  to  the  spot.  On  asking,  however,  whose  it  was, 
a bystander  said  it  belonged  to  “ the  asylum  of  the  world,”  and 
had  fallen  down  from  weakness,  which  was  not  surprising,  since, 
instead  of  an  allowance  of  twenty-five  rupees  a month,  necessary 
for  the  keep  of  an  elephant,  I was  told  that  these  poor  creatures, 
all  but  those  in  the  immediate  stables  of  his  majesty,  had  for  some 
time  back,  owing  to  the  dilapidated  state  of  the  finances,  and  the 
roguery  of  the  commissariate,  received  only  five ! They  had  now 
given  the  wretched  animal  a cordial,  and  were  endeavouring  to 
raise  it  on  its  legs,  but  in  vain.  It  groaned  pitifully,  but  lay  quite 
helpless,  and  was  in  fact  a mountain  of  skin  and  bone.  Another 
elephant  of  very  large  size,  and  in  somewhat  better  plight,  was 
brought  to  assist;  and  I was  much  struck  with  the  almost  human 
expression  of  surprise,  alarm,  and  perplexity  in  his  countenance, 
when  he  approached  his  fallen  companion.  They  fastened  a chain 
round  his  neck  and  the  body  of  the  sick  beast,  and  urged  him  in 
all  ways,  by  encouragement  and  blows,  to  drag  him  up,  even 
thrusting  spears  into  his  flanks.  He  pulled  stoutly  for  a minute, 
but  on  the  first  groan  his  companion  gave  he  stopped  short, 
turned  fiercely  round  with  a loud  roar,  and  with  his  trunk  and  fore 
feet  began  to  attempt  to  loosen  the  chain  from  his  neck.  In  fact, 
his  resistance  and  refusal  to  sanction  their  proceedings  were  so 
decisive,  that  an  immediate  cry  arose  of  “ le-jao,”  take  him 
away,  in  which  I very  cordially  joined.  I asked  them  if  they 
could  get  nothing  which  the  fallen  animal  was  likely  to  eat, 
urging  that,  weak  as  he  was,  even  if  they  did  get  him  to  rise,  he 
would  certainly  fail  again.  They  seemed  sensible  of  this,  and 
two  of  them  ran  for  a great  bundle  of  greens  and  a pot  of  water; 
the  greens  he  ate  readily  enough,  but  refused  the  water,  which 


PEASANTRY  OF  OUDE. 


■ 315 


they  accounted  for  by  saying  he  supposed  it  ’was  physic.  He 
was  said  to  be  very  old,  which  the  size  of  his  tusks  confirmed. 
Among  the  group  thus  assembled  were  some  of  the  tallest  and 
finest  men  I have  ever  seen  here,  or  indeed  in  Europe.  All 
the  crowd  were  civil  and  communicative,  and  I could  not  help 
thinking  that  the  peasants  of  Oude,  in  every  thing  but  honesty, 
bore  a high  rank  among  those  of  their  own  class  throughout  the 
world. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  a messenger,  mounted  on  a fast  trot- 
ting camel,  (a  style  of  conveyance  for  couriers  very  usual  in  these 
provinces,)  arrived  from  Mr.  Ricketts,  his  saddle  perched  high 
on  the  top  of  the  hump,  his  carbine  and  sabre  hanging  down  on 
each  side,  and  guiding  the  animal  not  with  a bridle,  but  with  a 
small  cord  fastened  to  a ring  through  his  nostrils.  The  message 
from  Mr.  Ricketts  was  that  his  own  aide-de-camp,  with  one  of  the 
king’s,  would  meet  me  next  morning  at  about  six  miles  from 
Lucknow,  and  that  if  I chose  they  would  bring  with  them  spare 
elephants  for  our  party.  This  wns  fortunate,  since  on  inquiry  we 
found  that  we  had  still  nearly  ten  coss  between  us  and  the  Resi- 
dency, a greater  distance  than  our  animals  or  foot  attendants 
could  get  through  without  some  rest,  or  before  the  middle  of 
the  day.  Mr.  Ricketts’s  offer,  however,  made  the  arrangement 
easy. 

October  ^\. — We  set  out  at  half  past  three  o’clock,  and  for  some 
time  lost  our  way,  there  being  no  other  road  than  such  tracks  as 
are  seen  across  ploughed  fields  in  England,  the  whole  country 
being  cultivated,  though  not  enclosed,  and  much  intersected  by 
small  rivers  and  nullahs.  The  king’s  suwarrs  were,  I found,  for 
show  only,  since  they  knew  nothing  about  the  road,  and  as  for 
defence  I should  have  been  very  sorry  to  be  obliged  to  rely  on 
them.  I was  pleased,  however,  and  surprised,  after  all  which  1 
had  heard  of  Oude,  to  find  the  country  so  completely  under  the 
plough,  since  were  the  oppression  so  great  as  it  is  sometimes  slated, 
1 cannot  think  that  we  should  witness  so  considerable  a popula- 
tion, or  so  much  industry.  Yet  that  considerable  anarchy  and 
mis-rule  exist,  the  events  of  yesterday  afforded  a sufficient  reason 
for  supposing. 

The  bulk  of  the  population  is  still  evidently  Hindoo.  All  the 
villages  have  pagodas,  while  many  are  vfithout  mosques  ; by  far 
the  greater  part  of  the  people  who  pass  us  on  the  road,  have  the 
marks  of  caste  on  their  foreheads,  and  it  being  now  a Hindoo  fes- 
tival, the  drumming,  braying,  and  clattering  of  their  noisy  music, 
was  heard  from  every  little  collection  of  houses  which  we  passed 
through.  At  length,  and  sooner  than  we  expected,  we  saw  a con- 
siderable‘‘Suwarree,”  or  retinue,  of  elephants  and  horses  ap- 
proaching us,  and  were  met  by  Captain  Salmon  and  the  King  of 


316  * 


ENTRANCE  INTO  LUCKNOW. 


Oude’s  officer,  the  latter  followed  bj  a train  of  elephants  splen- 
didly equipped  with  silver  howdahs,  and  sufficient  to  accommo- 
date more  than  three  times  the  number  of  our  party.  A 
good  many  suwarrs,  in  red  and  yellow,  followed  Captain  Salmon, 
and  a most  irregular  and  picturesque  body  of  infantry,  with 
swords  and  shields,  long  matchlock  guns,  and  other  guns  of  every 
sort  and  size,  spears  like  spits,  composed,  sheath  and  all,  of  iron, 
and  some  silvered  over,  large  triangular  green  banners,  and  every 
thing  most  unlike  the  appearance  of  European  war,  made  up  the 
cortege  of  Meer  Hussun  Khan.  The  whole  formed  a stage  pro- 
cession of  the  most  interesting  and  showy  kind,  in  which  there 
was  no  regularity  and  little  real  magnificence,  for  the  dresses  of 
the  men  and  trappings  of  the  elephants  were  all  the  worse  for 
wear,  and  the  silver  howdahs  did  not  bear  a close  examination, 
hut  were  flowing  and  picturesque  dresses,  glowing  colours,  num- 
bers ; and  the  majestic  size  of  the  noble  animals  which  formed  the 
most  prominent  part  of  the  group,  produced  an  effect  more 
pleasing  in  the  eye  of  a poet  or  an  artist,  than  the  sprucest  parade 
of  an  English  review. 

While  I was  changing  elephants,  a decent  looking  man  stepped 
up  to  me,  and  begged  to  know  my  name  and  titles  at  full  length, 
in  order,  as  he  said,  “ to  make  a report  of  them  to  the  asylum  of 
the  world.”  I found,  on  inquiry,  that  he  was  the  writer  of  the 
court  circular,  a much  more  minute  task,  and  one  considered  of 
far  more  importance  here  than  in  Europe.  Every  thing  which 
occurs  in  the  family  of  the  King  himself,  the  Resident,  the  chief 
officers  of  state,  or  any  stranger  of  rank  who  may  arrive,  is  care- 
fully noted  and  sent  round  in  writing.  And  I was  told  that  the 
exact  hour  at  which  I rose,  the  sort  of  breakfast  1 ate,  the  visits 
I paid  or  received,  and  the  manner  in  which  T passed  my  morn- 
ing, would  all  be  detailed  by  the  King’s  chobdars,  for  the  infor- 
mation of  their  master,  whose  own  most  indifferent  actions, 
however,  are  with  equal  fairness  written  down  for  Mr.  Ricketts’s 
inspection.  As  I mounted  my  new  elephant,  the  same  sort  of 
acclamation  of  “ Bismillah  ! Ullah  Acbar  ! Ullah  Kureen  !”  was 
made  by  the  attendants,  as  I had  heard  by  the  Nawab  of  Dacca’s 
arrival  and  departure.  It  is,  I find,  the  ancient  Mussulman 
fashion,  and  during  their  stay  in  Lucknow,  my  chobdars  and 
bearers  learnt  it  also  from  those  of  the  King  and  the  Resident. 
How  long  they  will  continue  it  I do  not  know.  It  seems  a very 
pious  custom,  and  one  which  T should  not  wish  to  check,  though 
1 certainly  should  not  allow  them  to  adopt  the  proclamation, 
which  followed  on  this  occasion,  of  my  name  and  title,  so  mangled 
as  never  name  was  before. 

We  now  proceeded,  three  elephants  abreast,  that  on  which 
Mr.  Lushington  and  1 rode  in  the  centre.  Meer  Hussun  Khfin 


LUCKNOW. 


317 


on  the  right,  and  Captain  Salmon  on  the  left,  with  the  motley 
multitude  before  and  the  spare  elephants  behind.  The  Corries 
had  fallen  back,  being  unable  to  keep  up  with  us.  We  thus  ad- 
vanced into  Lucknow,  through  a very  considerable  population, 
and  crowded  mean  houses  of  clay,  with  the  filthiest  lanes  between 
them  that  I ever  went  through,  and  so  narrow  that  we  were  often 
obliged  to  reduce  our  front,  and  even  a single  elephant  did  not 
always  pass  very  easily.  A swarm  of  beggars  occupied  every 
angle  and  the  steps  of  every  door,  and  all,  or  nearly  all  the  re- 
maining population  were,  to  my  surprise,  as  much  loaded  with 
arms  as  the  inhabitants  of  the  country,  a circumstance  which  told 
ill  for  the  police  of  the  town,  but  added  considerably  to  its  pic- 
turesque effect.  Grave  men  in  palanquins,  counting  their  beads 
and  looking  like  Moullahs,  had  all  two  or  three  sword  and 
buckler  lacquies  attending  on  them.  People  of  more  conse- 
quence, on  their  elephants,  had  each  a suwarree  of  shield, 
spear,  and  gun,  little  inferior  to  that  by  which  we  were  sur- 
rounded, and  even  the  lounging  people  of  the  lower  ranks  in  the 
streets  and  shop  doors,  had  their  shields  over  their  shoulders,  and 
their  swords  carried  sheathed  in  one  hand. 

I recollected  Sir  W.  Scott’s  picture  of  the  streets  of  London 
in  ‘‘  The  Fortunes  of  Nigel,”  but  I should  apprehend  that  Luck- 
now offered  at  this  moment  a more  warlike  exterior  than  our  own 
metropolis  ever  did  during  its  most  embroiled  and  troublesome 
periods.  As  we  advanced,  the  town  began  to  improve  in  point 
of  buildings,  though  the  streets  remained  equally  narrow  and 
dirty.  We  passed  some  pretty  mosques  and  some  large  houses, 
built  like  the  native  houses  in  Calcutta,  and  the  bazars  seemed 
well  filled,  so  far  as  1 could  distinguish  from  the  height  at  which 
I sat,  and  the  general  narrowness  of  the  area.  At  last  we  suddenly 
entered  a very  handsome  street  indeed,  wider  than  the  High-street 
at  Oxford,  but  having  some  distant  resemblance  to  it  in  the  colour 
of  its  buildings,  and  the  general  form  and  gothic  style  of  the 
•greater  part  of  them.  We  saw  but  little  of  it,  however,  as  we 
immediately  turned  up  through  some  folding-gates  into  a sort  of 
close,  with  good-looking  houses  and  small  gardens  round  it,  and 
a barrack  and  guard-house  at  its  entrance.  One  of  these  houses, 
I was  told,  belonged  to  the  Resident,  another  was  his  banqueting- 
house,  containing  apartments  for  his  guests,  and  a third  very 
pretty  upper-roomed  house  in  a little  garden  was  pointed  out  as 
that  which  the  King  had  assigned  to  receive  me  and  my  party. 
Here,  therefore,  our  companions  took  their  leave,  and  Mr.  Lush- 
ington  and  1 found  ourselves  in  a very  prettily  arranged  and  well- 
furnished  dwelling,  with  excellent  stables  and  accommodations 
for  our  numerous  followers.  It  was  the  house  usually  assigned 
to  the  king’s  physician,  now  absent,  and  was  extremely  well 


318 


LUCKNOW. 


suited  to  my  purpose,  both  as  being  near  the  Residency,  and  suf- 
ficiently detached  from  it  to  allow  me  to  have  some  part  of  my 
mornings  to  myself.  The  Corries  arrived  in  about  half  an  hour, 
and  shortly  afterwards  we  were  summoned  to  breakfast  at  the 
^ Residency,  where  we  found  so  large  a party  as  completely  to 
give  the  idea  of  a watering-place.  After  breakfast  1 was  told 
the  prime  minister  was  come  to  call  on  me,  and  Mr.  Ricketts  in- 
troduced us  to  each  other  in  form.  He  is  a dark,  harsh,  hawk- 
nosed  man,  with  an  expression  of  mouth  which  seems  to  imply 
habitual  self-command  struggling  with  a naturally  rough  temper. 
He  is,  I understand,  exceedingly  unpopular.  He  was  originally 
khansaman  to  the  present  King,  when  heir  apparent,  and  in  dis- 
grace with  his  father,  Saadut  Ali.  His  house  is  the  most  splendid 
in  Lucknow,  and  his  suwarree  exceeds  that  of  the  King,  who  is 
said  to  be  so  attached  to  him  as  to  have  given  himself  entirely 
into  his  hands.  His  manners,  though  not  his  appearance,  are 
those  of  a gentleman ; he  is  said  to  be  a man  of  undoubted 
courage,  and  to  be  a pleasant  person  to  do  business  with,  except 
that  too  much  confidence  must  not  be  placed  in  him.  He  was 
very  civil  to  me,  and  very  tolerant  of  my  bad  Hindoostanee;  but 
I s^iw  that  he  was  nursing  some  ill-humour  towards  Mr.  Ricketts, 
and  found  at  length  that  offence  had  been  taken  because  Lord 
Amherst  had  not  himself  written  to  the  King  to  introduce  me,  as 
had,  he  said,  been  the  constant  custom  with  other . Governors- 
general  whenever  any  person  of  a certain  rank  in  the  country 
visited  Lucknow.  We  explained  to  him  that  my  regular  progress 
was  through  those  stations  where  there  were  chaplains,  and  that, 
therefore,  it  was  probable  that  Lord  Amherst  did  not  know  that 
I intended  to  visit  Lucknow,  and  he  seemed  satisfied.  Possibly 
Lord  Amherst  was  not  aware  that  such  an  etiquette  was  usual, 
and  in  my  own  case  it  was  certainly  ignorance  which  prevented 
my  asking  for  such  credent! als."^  However,  the  minister  seemed 

* The  following  letter  from  the  Governor-general  was  subsequently  sent  to 
the  King  of  Oude: 

“ TO  HIS  MAJESTY  THE  KING  OF  OUDE. 

“ Written  \0th  December^  1824. 

“ I have  lately  been  informed,  by  a letter  from  the  Lord  Bishop  of  Calcutta, 
of  the  gracious  reception  which  his  Lordship  experienced  from  your  Majesty,  and 
of  the  gratification  which  he  derived  from  his  visit  to  your  Majesty’s  court  of 
Lucknow. 

“ I had  no  opportunity  of  making  known,  previously,  to  your  Majesty,  the 
Bishop’s  intention  of  visiting  Lucknow,  as  his  proceeding  to  that  capital  was  a 
sudden  thought,  and  he  had  not  beforehand  contemplated  that  the  course  of  his 
public  duties  would  allow  of  his  deviating  so  far  from  his  proposed  route.  This 
beinfif  the  case,  I feel  myself  now  doubly  called  on  to  address  your  Majesty,  both 
in  explanation  of  the  above  apparent  omission,  and  to  offer  my  sincere  acknow 


LUCKNOW. 


319 


satisfied,  his  dark  countenance  cleared  up,  and  he  said  that  the 
introduction  of  their  friend  the  Resident  was  quite  enough  for 
them,  and  that  the  King  hoped  to  make  Lucknow  not  unpleasant 
to  me.  The  remaining  conversation  was  about  the  cities  and 
countries  which  I had  visited,  how  I liked  the  first  sight  of  Luck- 
now, and  concluded  with  the  minister’s  inviting  me,  on  the  part 
of  the  King,  to  breakfast  with  him  the  Monday  following. 

This  is  the  usual  way  of  being  presented  at  this  court,  and  the 
reason  given  for  not  naming  an  earlier  day,  was,  that  the  King  had 
a bad  feverish  cold.  I found,  indeed,  half  Lucknow  laid  up  with 
the  same  influenza,  though  of  a slighter  degree,  with  that  which 
had  prevailed  so  universally  in  Calcutta  during  the  rains.  In  fact, 
I know  not  how,  the  sight  of  the  town,  its  various  villanous 
smells,  and  its  close  population,  gave  me  the  idea  of  a very  un- 
healthy place,  though  I found  the  old  residents  disclaimed  the 
imputation.  I felt  much  chagrined,  on  more  accounts  than  one, 
to  find  that  Mr,  Ricketts’s  marriage  could  not  take  place  before 
the  1st  of  November ; if  this  were  out  of  the  question,  however, 
it  was  very  unlikely  I should  be  able  to  leave  it  before  that  time, 
from  the  different  things  that  were  to  be  done.  Under  these  cir- 
cumstances it  was  a satisfaction  to  me  to  find  that,  if  a week’s 
notice  was  given,  1 should  be  sure  of  a numerous  attendance  at 
sacrament, — that  many  persons  had  been  asking  about  confirma- 
tion, who  only  needed  some  days  to  prepare  themselves,  and 
make  up  their  minds  to  the  ceremony,  and  that  a full  share  of 
those  other  opportunities  of  usefulness  might  be  expected  which 
1 had  found  at  Allahabad,  Monghyr,  and  other  places  where  there 
was,  as  here,  no  resident  chaplain. 

The  great  detentions  which  I have  already  met  with  have  not 
only  thrown  me  much  behind  the  reckoning  which  1 formed  from 
my  conversation  with  Colonel  Cunliffe,  but,  joined  to  the  expe- 
rience which  I have  already  had  of  marching,  have  obliged  me 
to  calculate  on  a much  slower  progress  hereafter  than  I looked 
forward  to  when  first  that  reckoning  was  made.  In  so  long  a 
journey  as  this  I find  it  evident  that  a Sunday  halt  is  not  only  ad- 
viseable  in  a religious  point  of  view,  but  necessary  for  the  animals 
and  men  who  accompany  me.  To  be  useful  I must  arrange  my 
stay  in  each  station  so  as  to  include  a Sunday,  and  shall  thus  be 
often  kept,  besides  these  halting  days,  several  others,  which  1 

ledgments  for  the  flattering  and  cordial  reception  given  by  your  Majesty  to  the 
head  of  the  British  Church  in  India,  of  which  the  Bishop  writes  in  the  warmest 
and  most  grateful  terms. 

» (Signed)  AMHERST. 

“ {A  true  copy) 

‘‘(Signed)  A.  STIRLING, 

“ Persian  Secretary  to  Government.'’ — Ed. 


320 


LUCKNOW. 


should  have  employed,  more  to  my  liking,  in  pressing  onwards 
towards  the  meeting  to  which  I look  forward  with  daily  increasing 
earnestness.  To  go  dak  any  considerable  part  of  the  way  would 
be  a great  additional  expense,  and,  it  so  happens,  that  it  would 
save  me  very  little  time,  since  I must  still  adjust  my  stay  in  the 
different  stations  according  to  Sundays,  and  wait  for  my  servants 
and  baggage  to  rejoin  me.  As,  to  the  best  of  my  calculation,  it 
seems  very  improbable  that  1 can  reach  Surat  before  the  begin- 
ning of  April,  I was  well  pleased  to  learn  from  Mr.  Hyde,  one  of 
the  party  at  the  Residency,  who  had  recently  come  across  from 
Bombay,  that  travelling  in  Guzerat  was  not  only  practicable  but 
pleasant  till  that  time.  Mr.  Hyde  is  a great  traveller,  and  the 
only  Englishman  whom  I have  heard  of,  except  Lord  Valencia, 
who  has  visited  India  from  motives,  exclusively,  of  science  and 
curiosity,  since  the  country  has  been  in  our  possession.  All 
others,  however  science  might  engross  their  attention,  have,  like 
Leyden  and  Sir  W.  Jones,  had  some  official  and  ostensible  object, 
whereas  this  gentleman  is  merely  making  a tour.  He  left  Eng- 
land seven  years  ago,  with  the  intention  of  being  absent  a few 
months,  and  has  been  since  rambling  on,  without  plan,  and  chiefly 
as  his  course  has  been  determined  by  the  motions  of  others. 
Having  attached  himself  to  Mr.  Bankes,  1 believe  in  Spain,  he 
accompanied  him  into  Egypt,  Nubia,  Syria,  and  Arabia.  Mr. 
Rich  enticed  him  from  Palmyra  on  to  Babylon  and  Bagdad. 
From  Bussorah  he  came  to  Bombay,  touching  in  his  way  at  some 
of  the  ports  of  Oman  and  Yeman,  in  the  hope  of  finding  an 
eligible  opportunity  of  returning  home  by  sea ; and  then,  finding 
himself  in  a new  and  interesting  country,  determined  to  make  the 
tour  of  India.  Added  to  his  zeal  for  seeing  new  countries,  he 
has  an  uncommon  share  of  good-nature  and  cheerfulness,  and  is 
exactly  the  person  whom  I could  conceive  Bankes  selecting  as 
his  travelling  companion. 

I do  not  know  that  there  is  any  use  in  writing  a regular  journal 
of  the  manner  in  which  I passed  my  time  at  Lucknow.  There 
was,  as  must  be  the  case,  a good  deal  of  sameness,  in  morning 
rides,  evening  sight-seeing,  late  breakfasts,  and  later  dinners. 
There  were  several  pleasant  people  among  the  crowd,  and  I 
was  daily  more  and  more  pleased  with  my  host  and  future  hostess, 
and  from  him  I obtained  much  information  as  to  the  manners 
and  customs  of  northern  India.  The  king  very  good-naturedly 
sent  an  elephant  every  morning  for  Mr.  Lushington  and  myself, 
and  a chariot  for  the  Corries,  that  we  might  see  the  sights  of 
Lucknow  to  more  advantage.  There  is  a menagerie  with  a 
greater  number  of  scarce  and  carious  animals,  but  in  far  worse 
order,  than  that  at  Barrackpoor ; and  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river  Goomty,  in  a well-wooded  park,  is  a large  collection  of 


DIL^KOUSHAR, 


321 


different  varieties  of  cows,  camels,  and  deer,  and  five  or  six  verj^ 
large  rhinoceroses,  the  first  animals  of  the  kind  I ever  saw,  and 
of  which  I found  that  prints  and  drawings  had  given  me  a very 
imperfect  conception.  They  are  more  bulky  animals,  and  of  a 
darker  colour,  than  I had  supposed,  and  the  thickness  of  the  folds 
of  their  impenetrable  skin  much  surpasses  all  which  I had  ex- 
pected. These  at  Lucknow  are  gentle  and  quiet  animals,  except 
that  one  of  them  has  a feud  with  horses.  They  seem  to  propa- 
gate in  captivity  without  reluctance,  and  I should  conceive  might 
be  available  to  carry  burthens  as  well  as  the  elephant,  except 
that,  as  their  pace  is  still  slower  than  his,  their  use  could  only  be 
applicable  to  very  great  weights,  and  very  gentle  travelling. 
These  have  sometimes  had  howdahs  on  them,  and  were  once 
fastened  in  a carriage,  but  only  as  an  experiment,  which  was 
never  followed  up.  There  is,  on  the  same  side  of  the  river,  a 
poultry-yard  of  beautiful  pigeons ; and  on  the  river  itself  is  a 
steam-boat,  a vessel  fitted  up  like  a brig  of  war,  and  other  things 
which  show  the  King  to  be  fond  of  mechanical  inventions.  He 
has,  indeed,  a very  skilful  mechanist,  an  English  officer,  in  his 
service,  and  is  himself  said  to  know  more  of  the  science,  and  of 
the  different  branches  of  philosophy  connected  with  it,  than 
could  be  expected  in  a person  who  understands  no  European 
language. 

Another  pleasant  ride  is  to  “Dil-koushar,”  Heart’s  Delight,  a 
small  summer  palace  of  the  King’s,  about  three  miles  from  the 
city.  The  house  is  small  and  ugly,  with  a high  front  like  a grena- 
dier’s cap,  and  two  low  wings,  like  some  of  the  old  French  and 
German  chateaus.  It  is  said  to  be  prettily  arranged  and  furnished 
inside,  but  this  I did  not  see. 

The  park  is  extensive,  and  some  parts  of  it  extremely  pretty, 
being  sufficiently  wild  and  jungly  to  offer  a picturesque  variety, 
and  in  parts  sufficiently  open  for  air  and  exercise,  as  well  as  to 
show  off  its  deer  and  neelghaus  to  advantage.  Some  parts  of  it 
put  me  in  mind  of  the  few  remaining  glades  of  Needwood  forest. 
There  are  not  only  neelghaus  and  the  common  Indian  deer,  but 
some  noble  red  deer  in  this  park,  which  contribute  much,  with  a 
broad  and  excellent  drive  through  it,  and  the  form  of  its  lodge, 
to  give  it  an  English  air,  wffiich,  however,  is  from  time  to  time 
destroyed  by  the  tall  jungle  grass,  with  its  beautiful  silver  tufts,  and 
the  monkeys.  These,  as  well  as  all  which  I have  yet  seen  in 
this  country,  resemble  the  corpulent  one  which  I described  on 
the  banks  of  the  Pudda  in  every  particular,  except  that  of  wanting 
a tail,  which  he,  I suppose,  had  lost  by  some  accident.  Though 
they  seem  better  adapted  for  climbing  than  running,  they  are 
tolerably  swift  on  the  ground.  1 have  more  than  once  taken 
them  at  first  for  Pariar  dogs.  They  are  very  tame,  never  being 

VoL.  I. — 41 


322 


LUCKNOW. 


shot  at  or  injured,  and  are  not,  I think,  the  lively,  frolicsome 
animal  which  they  are  in  Europe  supposed  to  be.  There  is  a 
sort  of  cage  in  the  middle  of  the  park  where  they  are  fed,  at  least 
where  some  gram  is  thrown  to  them  to  scramble  for  once  in  two 
or  three  days,  whether  founded  by  the  King  or  some  pious  Hin- 
doo I know  not.  I suspect  the  latter,  because  the  people  who 
keep  it  are  Fakirs  and  beg,  and  because  there  is  a statue  of  Huni- 
man  in  front  of  it. 

Another  popular  drive  is  to  Constantia,  a very  large  and  most 
whimsical  house  and  grounds,  in  the  worst  possible  taste,  but 
displaying,  in  its  outline  and  some  parts  of  its  arrangements,  an 
eccentric  and  uneducated  genius,  built  by  the  late  General  Mar- 
tin, a Frenchman,  and  originally  a common  soldier,  who  rose  by 
good  fortune  more  than  any  brilliant  services,  to  the  first  rank  in 
the  Company’s  army.  His  tomb  is  in  one  of  the  cellars,  a marble 
altar-shaped  sarcophagus,  with  a very  modest  inscription,  and  a 
bust  also  of  white  marble.  It  is  surrounded  by  four  figures  of 
grenadiers  as  large  as  life,  with  their  arms  reversed,  in  the  elegant 
attitude  used  in  military  funerals,  and  the  whole  would  have  had 
an  extremely  good  effect,  had  not  the  grenadiers  which,  it  is  said, 
Martin  meant  to  have  been  of  marble  also,  been  paltry  plaster 
figures,  painted  after  nature  in  red  coats!  Whose  taste  this  has 
been  I could  not  learn. 

There  are  one  or  two  other  very  English-looking  country- 
houses  near  Lucknow,  all,  I believe,  the  property  of  the  King, 
and  it  may  be  said  that  from  the  Residency  all  the  way  down  the 
principal  street,  and  afterward  through  the  park  of  Dil-Koushar, 
and  the  neighbouring  drives,  Lucknow  has  more  resemblance  to 
some  of  the  smaller  European  capitals  (Dresden  for  instance) 
than  any  thing  which  1 have  seen  in  India.  The  King’s  troops, 
besides  the  irregular  gentry  of  whom  1 saw  a specimen  on  enter- 
ing the  city,  are  dressed  in  the  same  way  that  the  British  sepoys 
used  to  be  twenty  years  ago,  and  as  they  are  represented  in  Kerr 
Porter’s  “ Storming  of  Seringapatam.”  They  are  armed  with 
muskets  and  bayonets,  under  British  officers,  and  not  ill  disci- 
plined, but  their  numbers  are  not  more  than  are  required  for  the 
usual  purposes  of  parade  and  mounting  sentries.  His  horse- 
guards  are  fine  tall  men,  and  well  mounted,  but  are  in  discipline 
and  military  appearance  a little,  and  but  a little,  better  than  those 
which  attend  the  Nawab  of  Dacca.  The  British  subsidiary  force, 
which  is  at  the  disposal  of  the  Resident,  is,  by  a strange  choice, 
placed  in  a cantonment  five  miles  from  the  town,  separated  by 

* All  the  furniture  of  the  house  was  sold  on  General  Martin’s  death,  and  the 
looking-glasses  and  lustres  were  purchased  by  the  Company  to  ornament  the 
Government-house  in  Calcutta. — Ed. 


LUCKNOW. 


323 


the  broad  and  rapid  stream  of  the  Goomty,  where  there  is  indeed 
a fine  old  bridge,  but  one  which  might  in  a few  minutes  be  ren= 
dered  impassable  by  any  force  without  a regular  siege,  so  that  in 
case  of  a commotion  in  the  city,  either  King  or  Resident  would 
have  to  rely  entirely  on  the  single  company  which  is  always  on 
guard  at  the  Residency,  but  which  would  be  as  nothing  when 
opposed  to  such  an  armed  population  as  that  of  Lucknow.  That 
they  have  never  yet  been  exposed  to  this  danger  seems  a sufficient 
proof  of  the  quiet  disposition  of  the  people,  as  well  as  of  the 
opinion  which  they  entertain  of  the  supposed  stability  of  the 
Company’s  empire;  yet  the  English,  both  at  Lucknow  and  Cawn- 
poor,  often  spoke  of  the  anarchical  condition,  the  frequent  affrays, 
the  hatred  of  the  European  and  Christian  name,  the  robberies 
and  murders  by  which  this  city  is  distinguished  ; and  I was  cau- 
tioned expressly,  by  more  people  than  one,  never  to  go  into  the 
populous  parts  of  the  city  except  on  an  elephant,  and  attended 
by  some  of  the  Resident’s  or  the  King’s  chuprassees.  It  so 
happened  that  the  morning  before  this  counsel  was  given,  Mr. 
Lushington  and  I had  gone  on  horseback  through  almost  the 
whole  place,  along  streets  and  alleys  as  narrow  and  far  dirtier 
than  those  of  Benares,  and  in  a labyrinth  of  buildings  which 
obliged  us  to  ask  our  way  at  almost  every  turn.  So  far  from 
having  chuprassees,  we  had  as  it  happened  but  one  saees  between 
us,  and  he  as  much  a stranger  as  ourselves,  yet  we  found  invari- 
able civility  and  good  nature,  people  backing  their  carts  and 
elephants  to  make  room  for  us,  and  displaying  on  the  whole  a far 
greater  spirit  of  hospitality  and  accommodation  than  two  foreigners 
would  have  met  with  in  London.  One  old  man  only,  when  my 
horse  showed  considerable  reluctance  to  pass  an  elephant,  said, 
shaking  his  head,  in  a sort  of  expostulating  tone,  “ this  is  not  a 
good  road  for  sahibs.”  Some  of  the  instances,  indeed,  which 
were  related  of  Europeans  being  insulted  and  assaulted  in  the 
streets  and  neighbourhood  of  Lucknow,  were  clearly  traced  to 
insolent  or  overbearing  conduct  on  the  part  of  the  complainants 
themselves  ; and  though  of  course  there  are  bad  and  worthless 
people  every  where,  though  where  every  body  is  armed,  and 
there  is  no  efficient  police,  street  brawls  will  be  less  infrequent 
than  in  cities  more  fortunately  circumstanced,  and  though  by  night 
narrow  streets  ill-watched  and  unlighted  must  be  dangerous,  1 am 
not  disposed  to  think  that  the  people  of  Oude  are  habitually  fero- 
cious or  blood-thirsty,  or  that  they  are  influenced  by  any  peculiar 
animosity  against  the  English  or  the  Christian  name.  It  is  cer- 
tain, however,  that  they  have  not  a good  character,  and  that  in 
no  part  of  the  country  should  valuable  property  be  trusted  in 
their  way  without  proper  precaution.  1 had  heard  of  some 
travellers  having  been  menaced  by  the  villagers  on  the  Oude  bank 


324 


PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 


of  the  Ganges  a short  time  before,  and  when,  on  leaving  Luck- 
now^, I ordered  my  mate-bearer,  who  had  staid  with  me  after  the 
tents  had  set  off,  to  follow,  as  I could  do  without  him,  he  pleaded 
(though  he  had  a spear)  that  he  was  afraid  to  go  alone.  Abdullah 
laughed  at  this,  but  afterwards  went  very  gravely  to  examine  into 
the  state  of  the  pistols,  and  was  careful  at  night  to  bring  them  to 
my  bed-head,  observing  that  “ in  this  country  a man  does  not 
trust  his  own  father.”  This,  however,  is  a digression.  1 return 
to  Lucknow  and  its  public  buildings. 

The  minister’s  house  is  a very  large  pile  of  building,  in  a bad 
part  of  the  town,  and  both  in  architecture  and  situation  a good 
deal  resembling  the  house  of  the  Mullich  family  in  Calcutta. 
There  are  many  stately  khans,  and  some  handsome  mosques  and 
pagodas  scattered  in  different  corners  of  these  wretched  alleys, 
but  the  most  striking  buildings  in  Lucknow  are,  the  tombs  of  the 
late  Nawab  Saadut  Ali,  and  of  the  mother  of  the  present  king, 
the  gate  of  Constantinople  Roumi  Durwazu”)  and  the  “ Imam- 
bara,”  or  cathedral.  The  Imambara  consists  of  two  courts,  rising 
with  a steep  ascent  one  above  the  other.  It  contains,  besides  a 
splendid  mosque,  a college  for  instruction  in  Mussulman  law, 
apartments  for  the  religious  establishment  maintained  here,  and 
a noble  gallery,  in  the  midst  of  which,  under  a brilliant  tabernacle 
of  silver,  cut  glass,  and  precious  stones,  lie  buried  the  remains  of 
its  founder  Asuphud  Dowla.  The  whole  is  in  a very  noble  style 
of  eastern  gothic,  and  when  taken  in  conjunction  with  the  Roumi 
Durwazu  which  adjoins  it,  I have  never  seen  an  architectural 
view  which  pleased  me  more  from  its  richness  and  variety,  as 
well  as  the  proportions  and  general  good  taste  of  its  principal 
features.  The  details  a good  deal  resemble  those  of  Eaton,"^  but 
the  extent  is  much  greater  and  the  parts  larger.  On  the  whole, 
it  is,  perhaps,  most  like  the  Kremlin,  but  both  in  splendour  and 
taste  my  old  favourite  falls  very  short  of  it.  Close  to  this  fine 
group  is  a large  and  handsome,  but  dull  and  neglected  looking 
pile,  which  is  the  palace  or  prison  appropriated  to  the  unfortunate 
widows  and  concubines  of  deceased  sovereigns.  Some  ladies 
are  still  there,  as  it  is  said,  who  belonged  to  Asuphud  Dowlah. 
Those  of  Vizier  Ali  and  Saadut  Ali  are,  naturally,  many  of  them 
alive,  though  they  must  mostly  be  in  years.  An  Indian  king, 
who  allows  his  elephants  to  be  starved,  is,  I fear,  not  very  likely 
to  attend  much  to  the  feeding  of  his  old  women,  and  the  allow- 
ance which  these  poor  creatures  receive  is  said  to  be  always  so 
miserably  in  arrear,  that  they  have  occasionally  been  reduced  to 
extreme  distress.  Once  they  fairly  broke  loose  from  their  prison, 
sallied  in  a body  into  the  adjoining  bazar,  and  carried  off  all  they 

* The  Earl  Grosvenor’s  seat  in  Cheshire. — Ed, 


BREAKFAST  AT  THE  PALACE. 


325 


could  lay  hands  on,  exclaiming  that  they  had  already  pawned  or 
sold  all  their  trinkets,  and  almost  all  their  clothes,  that  they  were 
perishing  with  hunger,  and  that  the  King  must  pay  for  what  they 
took,  as  well  as  bear  the  disgrace  of  reducing  his  father’s  wives 
to  show  themselves  to  the  people.  The  measure  was  a bold  one, 
but,  probably,  did  them  good  as  to  their  subsequent  treatment, 
for  the  King  is  allowed  by  every  body  to  be  a kind-hearted,  well- 
meaning  man,  and  the  general  sympathy  and  horror  excited  were 
very  great. 

None  of  the  royal  palaces  (there  are,  I think,  three  in  Lucknow 
beside  this  gloomy  one)  are  either  very  large  or  striking.  That 
in  which  the  King  received  us  to  breakfast,  and  which  is  the  one 
which  he  usually  occupies,  is  close  to  the  Residency ; a cluster 
of  mean  courts  with  some  morsels  of  showy  architecture  inter- 
mingled, like  the  offices  of  a college.  We  went  there  in  long 
procession,  the  Resident  in  his  state  palanquin,  made  open  like 
the  nuptial  one  which  we  saw  in  Chowringhee,  I in  a tonjon,  the 
rest  of  the  party  in  all  manner  of  conveyances.  The  Resident 
had  a very  numerous  suwarree  of  armed  men,  silver-sticks,  &c. 
and  my  servants  were  so  anxious  that  I should  make  a good  ap- 
pearance on  the  occasion,  that  they  begged  permission  to  put  on 
their  new  blue  coats,  though  the  day  was  so  hot  it  was  painful  to 
see  them  thus  loaded.  There  was  the  usual  show  of  horse  and 
foot  guards  in  the  approaches  to  the  palace,  and  the  street  was 
lined  with  the  same  picturesque  crowd  of  irregular  gendarmerie, 
which  1 had  seen  on  entering  the  town.  We  were  set  down  at 
the  foot  of  a strangely  mean  stone  staircase,  resembling  rather 
that  leading  to  a bath-room  than  any  thing  else,  on  the  summit  of 
which  the  King  received  us,  first  embracing  the  Resident,  then 
me.  He  next  offered  an  arm  to  each  of  us,  and  led  us  into  a 
long  and  handsome,  but  rather  narrow,  gallery,  with  good  por- 
traits of  his  father  and  Lord  Hastings  over  the  two  chimney- 
pieces,  and  some  very  splendid  glass  lustres  hanging  from  the 
ceiling.  The  furniture  was  altogether  English,  and  there  was  a 
long  table  in  the  middle  of  the  room,  set  out  with  breakfast,  and 
some  fine  French  and  English  china.  He  sate  down  in  a gilt 
arm-chair  in  the  centre  of  one  side,  motioning  to  us  to  be  seated 
on  either  hand.  The  prime  minister  sate  down  opposite,  and 
the  rest  of  the  table  was  filled  by  the  party  from  the  Residency, 
and  about  an  equal  number  of  natives,  among  whom  were  one 
of  the  King’s  grandsons,  the  commander-in-chief,  and  other  pub- 
lic officers.  The  king  began  by  putting  a large  hot  roll  on  the 
Resident’s  plate,  and  another  on  mine,  then  sent  similar  rolls  to 
the  young  Nawab  his  grandson,  who  sate  on  the  other  side  of  me, 
to  the  prime  minister,  and  one  or  two  others.  Coffee,  tea,  butter, 
eggs,  and  fish,  were  then  carried  round  by  the  servants,  and 


32€ 


BREAKFAST  AT  THE  PALACE. 


things  proceeded  much  as  at  a public  breakfast  in  England.  The 
King  had  some  mess  of  his  own  in  a beautiful  covered  French 
cup,  but  the  other  Mussulmans  ate  as  the  Europeans  did.  There 
was  a pillaw,  which  the  king  recommended  to  me,  and  which, 
therefore,  I was  bound  to  taste,  though  with  much  secret  reluc- 
tance, as  remembering  the  greasy  dainties  of  the  Nawab  of  Dacca. 
I was  surprised,  however,  to  find  that  this  was  really  an  excellent 
thing,  with  neither  ghee  nor  garlic,  and  with  no  fault  except, 
perhaps,  that  it  was  too  dry,  and  too  exclusively  fowl,  rice,  and 
spices.  Mr.  Ricketts  told  me  afterwards,  that  the  high-bred  Mus- 
sulmans of  this  part  of  India  affect  to  dislike  exceedingly,  as  vul- 
gar, the  greasy  and  fragrant  dishes  of  the  Bengalees  and  Hindoos, 
and  that  the  merit  of  their  cookery  is  to  be  dry,  stimulant,  and 
aromatic. 

During  the  meal,  which  was  not  very  long,  for  nobody  ate 
much,  the  conversation  was  made  up  chiefly  of  questions  from 
the  King  as  to  the  countries  which  I had  visited,  the  length  of 
time  which  I had  been  in  India,  and  the  objects  of  my  present 
journey  ; as  also  how  I liked  what  I had  seen  of  Lucknow,  with 
the  rest  of  what  Falconbridge  calls  the  “ABC  book”  of  a tra- 
veller, when  such  a “piked  man  of  countries”  is  at  the  breakfast 
table  of  a great  man.  I took  care  to  thank  him  for  his  kindness 
in  sending  the  guard  and  the  Aumeen  to  meet  me,  as  also  for  the 
loan  of  the  elephant  and  chariot.  I understood  pretty  well  all 
which  he  said,  though  he  does  not  speak  very  distinctly,  but  I 
seldom  ventured  to  answer  him  without  the  aid  of  Mr.  Ricketts’s 
interpretation,  being  aware  of  the  danger  of  giving  offence,  or 
using  vulgar  or  “ unlucky”  words.  He  said  his  servants  had  told 
him  1 spoke  Hindoostanee  remarkably  well ; I answered  that  I 
could  speak  it  to  people  in  the  camp  or  on  the  river,  but  I was 
not  used  to  speak  it  in  such  a presence.  He  said,  very  politely, 
I had  only  to  go  on  according  to  the  progress  I had  already  made, 
and  the  next  time  1 came  to  see  him  he  would  not  allow  me  an 
interpreter.  The  fact  is,  however,  that  I have  gained  very  little 
in  Hindoostanee  lately,  considerably  less  than  before  I was  con- 
stantly with  the  Archdeacon  and  Mr.  Lushington.  It  is  much 
easier  to  get  them  to  interpret  than  my  myself  to  labour  at  an 
explanation,  and,  in  marching,  I have  little  or  no  time  to  read. 
Hindoostanee,  not  Persian,  is  here  the  court  language ; I suppose 
this  has  arisen  from  the  King’s  desertion  of  his  old  allegiance  to 
the  house  of  Timur,  since  which  it  has  been  a natural  policy  to 
frame  the  etiquette  of  his  court  on  a different  model  from  that  of 
Delhi. 

After  breakfast  the  King  rose  and  walked,  supported  as  before 
by  Mr.  Ricketts  and  me,  into  a small  adjoining  drawing-room, 
where  his  crown  stood  on  a sofa-table.  It  is  a very  elegant  one, 


DISTRIBUTION  OF  MONEY. 


327 


of  what  heralds  call  the  “ Oriental”  form,  a velvet  cap  surrounded 
with  pointed  rays  of  diamonds,  and  a white  heron’s  plume  in 
front.  T was  no  judge  of  the  merit  of  the  diamonds,  but  was  able 
honestly  to  say,  1 had  never,  except  on  the  Emperor  of  Russia’s 
crown,  seen  a more  brilliant  show.  He  asked  me  if  there  was 
any  difference  between  his  crown  and  that  of  the  King  of  England. 

1 told  him  what  the  difference  was,  and  said  his  Majesty’s  was 
more  like  that  of  the  Emperor  of  Constantinople,  “ Padshahi 
Roum.”  The  conversation  ended  by  his  giving  me  a copy  of  his 
own  works,  and  a hook  of  some  sort  to  the  Archdeacon.  We 
then  took  leave,  and  ended  the  morning  by  making  a tour  of  the 
palaces,  the  new  Imambara,  the  Menagerie,  and  the  tombs  of  the 
King’s  father  and  mother.  We  went  as  before  in  our  tonjons, 
and  Mr.  Ricketts,  on  going  out  of  the  palace-gate,  sent  me  a purse 
of  thirty  rupees  in  quarters,  saying  it  was  usual  on  such  occasions 
to  throw  silver  among  the  beggars.  He  had  scarcely  done  this 
when  our  chairs  were  actually  swept  away  from  each  other  by  a 
crowd  of  miserable  objects  of  all  kinds,  who  had  waited  our 
coming  out,  and  had  already  learned  my  name.  I at  once  saw 
that  in  such  a scramble  the  strong  and  young  would  get  every 
thing,  and  therefore  bid  the  chobdars  and  other  people  round  me 
to  keep  them  off,  and  bring  near  the  blind,  lame,  leprous,  and 
very  old.  They  executed  this  work  zealously  and  w'ell.  The 
Cawnpoor  sepoys  particularly,  twelve  of  whom  had  begged  leave 
to  attend  me  on  this  occasion,  with  their  side-arms  and  ramrods, 
as  orderlies,  laid  about  them  with  such  hearty  good  will,  that  they 
made  a very  effectual  w^ay,  and  really  seemed  anxious  to  bring 
forward  the  greatest  objects,  so  that  I had  the  satisfaction  of 
making  my  hundred  and  twenty  pieces  of  silver  a good  deal  more 
useful  than  they  otherwise  would  have  been,  as  well  as  advancing 
with  a progress  considerably  more  rapid  than  I could  have  done 
without  such  tools  as  iron  ramrods.  I had,  however,  the  morti- 
fication to  find  that  some  of  the  weakest  and  most  helpless  of 
those  who  w^ere  admitted  to  the  side  of  my  chair,  were  hustled 
on  their  return  to  the  crowd,  to  snatch  from  them  the  alms  which 
they  had  received ; and  one  poor  old  woman  to  whom  I gave 
half  a rupee  on  account  of  her  great  age  and  infirmities,  was,  after 
1 had  passed,  thrown  down,  trampled  on,  and  her  hands,  arms, 
and  breast  dreadfully  pinched  and  bruised,  to  compel  her  to  un- 
lock her  grasp  of  the  money.  The  Resident’s  people  rescued 
her,  or  she  probably  would  have  been  killed.  I observed,  by  the 
way,  that  my  chobdar  and  the  rest  of  my  escort  seemed  to  think  that 
it  w^as  strange  to  give  more  to  a woman  than  to  most  of  the  men  ; 
and  1 had  noticed  on  many  occasions,  that  all  through  India  any 
thing  is  thought  good  enough  for  the  weaker  sex,  and  that  the 
roughest  words,  the  poorest  garments,  the  scantiest  alms,  the  most 


3i28 


KING  OF  OUDE. 


degrading  labour,  and  the  hardest  blows,  are  generally  their  portion. 
The  same  chuprassee  who,  in  clearing  the  way  before  a great  man, 
speaks  civilly  enough  to  those  of  his  own  sex,  cuffs  and  kicks  any 
unfortunate  female  who  crosses  his  path  without  warning  or  for- 
bearance. Yet  to  young  children  they  are  all  gentleness  and 
indulgence.  What  riddles  men  are  ! and  how  strangely  do  they 
differ  in  different  countries ! An  idle  boy  in  a crowd  would 
infallibly,  in  England,  get  his  head  broken,  but  what  an  outcry 
would  be  raised  if  an  unoffending  woman  were  beaten  by  one  of 
the  satellites  of  authority!  Perhaps  both  parties  might  learn 
something  from  each  other  ; at  least  I have  always  thought  it  very 
hard  to  see  beadles,  in  England,  lashing  away  children  on  all 
public  occasions,  as  if  curiosity  were  a crime  at  an  age  in  which 
it  is,  of  all  others,  most  natural. 

This  custom  of  throwing  away  money  at  presentations  and 
other  “ high  times,”  is  said  to  be  the  cause  of  the  number  of  beg- 
gars in  Lucknow.  They  are,  indeed,  very  numerous,  but  on  no 
other  occasion  did  I see  a crowd  of  them,  and  in  any  large  city, 
the  certainty  that  money  was  to  be  scrambled  for,  would  bring 
together  a multitude,  perhaps  as  great  as  that  I saw  to-day. 

The  King  of  Oude  is  rather  a tall  man,  and  being  long-backed 
and  sitting  on  a somewhat  higher  cushion  than  his  neighbours, 
looks  particularly  so  at  his  own  table.  He  has  evidently  been 
very  handsome,  and  has  still  good  features  and  a pleasing  counte- 
nance, though  he  looks  considerably  older  than  he  is,  or  than  he 
as  yet  chooses  his  painter  to  represent  him.  His  curling  hair  and 
whiskers  are  quite  gray,  and  his  complexion  has  grown,  I under- 
stand, much  darker  within  these  few  years,  being  now,  indeed, 
perhaps  the  darkest  in  his  court.  On  Mr.  Home’s  canvass,  how- 
ever, his  locks  are  still  “ like  the  raven,”  and  his  “ bonny  brow 
is  brent.”  The  same  immutability  of  youth,  indeed,  I have  noticed 
in  other  royal  portraits.  The  King  of  Oude,  however,  is  evidently 
fond  of  dress,  and  is  said  to  be  a critic  in  that  of  others  as  well  as 
his  own ; and  his  palaces,  his  new  Imambara,  his  throne-room, 
jewels,  and  all  the  many  other  fine  things  which  we  visited  this 
day,  though  extremely  costly,  and  marked  by  a cultivated  taste, 
and  an  eye  familiarized  with  European  models,  are  less  solid  and 
massive  in  their  properties,  and  impress  the  mind  with  far  less 
magnificence  than  the  proud  Roumi  Durwazu,  and  the  other 
works  of  his  more  frugal  and  fortunate  father  and  uncle.  His 
manners  are  very  gentlemanly  and  elegant,  though  the  European 
ladies  who  visit  his  court  complain  that  he  seldom  pays  them  any 
attention.  Lady  Hood  and  Lady  Mac  Mahon  were,  however, 
exceptions  to  this  rule. 

By  a recent  order  of  Government  all  presents  of  shawls,  silks, 
ornaments,  or  diamonds,  whether  made  to  ladies  or  gentlemen, 


NUZZUR. 


329 


are  taken  from  them  on  leaving  the  palace,  by  the  Resident’s 
chobdar,  and  sold  on  the  account  of  Government.  Nothing  is 
kept  but  the  silken  cords  which  the  King  throws  round  the  necks 
of  his  visiters  at  parting,  and  books,  which,  as  nobody  buys  them, 
remain  the  unmolested  property  of  the  presentee. 

Still  presents  are  given  and  received,  when  such  a public  mark 
of  respect  is  thought  proper,  but  in  a manner  well  understood  by 
both  parties.  If  a person  of  rank  is  introduced  to  the  King,  a 
tray  of  shawls  is  offered,  accepted,  and  put  by  in  store  at  the 
Residency.  When  the  great  man  takes  leave,  on  departing  from 
Lucknow,  he  offers  a similar  nuzzur,  which  the  Company  sup- 
plies, and  which  is  always  of  rather  superior  value  to  that  which 
the  King  has  given.  Thus  the  King  gets  his  own  shawls  and 
something  more  leturned  to  him  in  due  course  of  circulation,  and 
except  that  every  such  interchange  of  presents  costs  the  Company 
about  five  hundred  rupees,  the  whole  is  reduced  to  little  more 
than  a bow,  and  the  occasion  of  a fee  to  his  Majesty’s  chobdars 
and  hurkarus.  I was  asked  if  1 chose  to  go  through  this  mock 
interchange  of  presents.  But  I had  no  authority  to  draw  from 
the  Company’s  funds  the  presents  which  I was  to  return,  nor  any 
desire  to  encroach  on  the  discretion  which  is,  in  such  case,  exer- 
cised by  the  Resident.  I answered,  therefore,  that,  as  a clergy- 
man, 1 could  not  be  supposed  to  derive  honour  from  the  present 
of  fine  clothes  and  costly  ornaments,  and  that  I was  anxious  for 
nothing  so  much  as  the  possession  of  his  Majesty’s  works  : this  I 
found  was  well  taken. 

I had  the  usual  compliment  paid  me  of  an  offer  to  have  a fight 
of  animals  under  my  window  at  breakfast,  which  I declined.  It 
is  a sight  that  religious  persons  among  the  Mussulmans  themselves 
condemn  as  inhuman,  and  I did  not  want  to  be  reckoned  less 
merciful  to  animals  than  their  own  Moullahs.  Nor  was  the  King, 
who  is  himself  pretty  well  tired  of  such  sights,  displeased,  I found, 
that  his  elephants  and  rams  had  a holiday. 

The  King,  to  finish  my  court-days  all  at  once,  returned  my  visit 
on  the  Thursday  following  at  the  Residency,  and  was  received  by 
the  Resident  and  myself  at  the  head  of  the  stairs,  in  all  points  as 
he  received  us,  and  was  conducted  between  us,  as  before,  to  the 
middle  of  the  long  breakfast  table,  and  after  breakfast  I presented 
him  with  a copy  of  the  Bible  in  Arabic,  and  the  prayer  book  in 
Hindoostanee,  which  I had  got  bound  in  red  velvet,  and  wrapt 
up  in  brocade  for  the  purpose.  The  morning  went  off  so  much 
like  that  which  had  preceded  it,  that  I remember  nothing  of  im- 
portance, except  that  during  breakfast  he  asked  me  to  sit  for  my 
portrait  to  his  painter,  and  that  after  breakfast  he  offered  me  an 
escort  of  twenty  suwarrs  through  his  territory,  of  which,  in  con- 
formity with  the  principle  on  which  I acted,  of  declining  all 
VoL.  1. — 42 


330 


KING  OF  OUDE. 


needless  parade,  I accepted  only  ten,  stating  that  I found  those 
his  Majesty  had  sent  me  before  quite  sufficient. 

I lastly  met  him  again,  under  circumstances  perfectly  similar, 
at  the  Residency  on  the  day  of  Mr.  Ricketts’s  marriage,  at  which 
he  had  expressed  a wish  to  be  present.  At  this  breakfast  he  was 
more  communicative  than  he  had  been,  talked  about  steam-engines, 
and  a new  way  of  propelling  ships  by  a spiral  wheel  at  the  bottom 
of  the  vessel,  which  an  English  engineer  in  his  pay  had  invented; 
mentioned  different  circumstances  respecting  the  earthquake  at 
Shiraz  which  had  been  reported  to  him,  but  were  not  named  in 
the  Calcutta  newspapers,  and  explained  the  degree  of  acquaint- 
ance which  he  showed  with  English  books,  by  saying  he  made 
his  aides-de-camp  read  them  to  him  into  Hindoostanee.  He  was 
full  of  a new  scheme  of  authorship  or  editorship  in  the  form  of  a 
Hindoostanee  and  Arabic  Dictionary,  which  he  was  pleased  to 
find  was  likely  to  be  well  received  at  the  College  of  Fort  William. 
Captain  Lockitt,  indeed,  said  that  it  would  in  all  probability  be 
a very  useful  book,  for  he  had  men  about  him  quite  competent 
to  do  it  respectably.  He  asked  so  much  about  my  publications, 
that  Mr.  Ricketts  told  me  I was  bound  to  offer  to  send  them  to 
him  as  soon  as  I returned  to  Calcutta,  and,  on  my  assenting,  made 
a very  pretty  speech  on  my  behalf.  The  King  said  he  should 
receive  them  with  great  pleasure,  and  had  no  doubt  he  should  get 
their  meaning  explained  to  him.  I cannot  tell  how  this  may  be, 
but  am  now  bound  to  make  the  trial.  The  marriage  ceremony 
went  off  very  well.  The  King,  his  grandson,  the  minister,  &c. 
remained  in  the  room  as  spectators,  and  after  it,  Mr.  Ricketts 
presented  him  with  a splendid  velvet  and  gold  saddle-cloth,  and 
housings.  Thus  ended,  after  another  embrace,  and  a promise  of 
returning  “ one  of  these  days,”  my  intercourse  with  one  of  the 
very  few  crowned  heads  I have  ever  come  into  contact  with.  I 
have  been  the  more  particular  in  describing  what  passed,  because 
1 know  my  wife  will  not  be  uninterested  in  it,  and  because  this  is 
in  fact  the  most  polished  and  splendid  court  at  present  in  India. 
Poor  Delhi  has  quite  fallen  into  decay. 

I sate  for  my  portrait  to  Mr.  Home  four  times."^  He  has  made 
several  portraits  of  the  king,  redolent  of  youth,  and  radiant  with 
diamonds,  and  a portrait  of  Sir  E.  Paget,  which  he  could  not  help 
making  a resemblance.  He  is  a very  good  artist,  indeed,  for  a 
king  of  Oude  to  have  got  hold  of.  He  is  a quiet  gentlemanly  old 
man,  brother  of  the  celebrated  surgeon  in  London,  and  came  out 

* The  editor  has  great  pleasure  in  repeating  her  obligations  to  Mr.  Home  for 
having,  unasked,  sent  to  her  a co})y  of  the  portrait  mentioned  in  the  text;  and 
in  adding  the  expression  of  the  gratification  which  she  has  felt  on  learning  that 
Mr.  Ricketts  has,  at  his  own  expense,  transmitted  another  copy  to  Calcutta  for 
the  bishop’s  college. 


KING  OF  OUDE. 


331 


to  practise  as  a portrait  painter  at  Madras,  during  Lord  Corn- 
wallis’s first  administration,  was  invited  from  thence  to  Lucknow 
bj  Saadut  Ali  a little  before  his  death,  and  has  since  been  retained 
by  the  King  at  a fixed  salary,  to  which  he  adds  a little  by  private 
practice.  His  son  is  a captain  in  the  Company’s  service,  but  is 
now  attached  to  the  King  of  Oude  as  equerry,  and  European  aide- 
de-camp.  Mr.  Home  would  have  been  a distinguished  painter 
had  he  remained  in  Europe,  for  he  has  a great  deal  of  taste,  and 
his  drawing  is  very  good  and  rapid;  but  it  has  been,  of  course,  a 
great  disadvantage  to  him  to  have  only  his  own  works  to  study, 
and  he,  probably,  finds  it  necessary  to  paint  in  glowing  colours  to 
satisfy  his  royal  master. 

Of  the  King’s  character,  and  the  circumstances  which  have 
plunged  this  country  into  its  present  anarchy,  I will  now  detail 
the  outlines  of  what  1 have  been  able  to  learn.  He  was,  by  a very 
common  misfortune  attendant  on  heirs  apparent,  disliked  by  his 
father,  Saadut  Ali,  who  had  kept  him  back  from  all  public  affairs, 
and  thrown  him  entirely  into  the  hands  of  servants.  To  the  first 
of  these  circumstances  may  be  ascribed  his  fondness  for  literary 
and  philosophical  pursuits,  to  the  second  the  ascendancy  which 
his  khansaman  minister  has  gained  over  him.  Saadut  Ali,  himself 
a man  of  talent  and  acquirements,  fond  of  business  and  well  qua- 
lified for  it,  but  in  his  latter  days  unhappily  addicted  to  drunken- 
ness, left  him  a country  with  six  millions  of  people,  a fertile  soil, 
a most  compact  frontier,  a clear  revenue  of  two  millions  sterling, 
and  upwards  of  two  millions  in  ready  money  in  the  treasury,  with 
a well  regulated  system  of  finance,  a peasantry  tolerably  well 
contented,  no  army  to  maintain  except  for  police  and  parade,  and 
every  thing  likely  to  produce  an  auspicious  reign.  Different 
circumstances,  however,  soon  blighted  these  golden  promises. 
The  principal  of  these  was,  perhaps,  the  young  Nawab’s  aversion 
to  public  business.  His  education  has  been  merely  Asiatic,  for 
Saadut  Ali,  though  he  himself  spoke  English  like  a native,  and 
very  frequently  wore  the  English  uniform,  had  kept  his  son  from 
all  European  intercourse  and  instruction.  He  was  fond,  however, 
as  I have  observed,  of  study;  and  in  all  points  of  Oriental  philo- 
logy and  philosophy,  is  really  reckoned  a learned  man,  besides 
having  a strong  taste  for  mechanics  and  chemistry.  But  these 
are  not  the  proper  or  most  necessary  pursuits  of  a king,  and,  in 
this  instance,  have  rather  tended  to  divert  his  mind  from  the 
duties  of  his  situation,  than  to  serve  as  graceful  ornaments  to  an 
active  and  vigorous  intellect.  When  I add  to  this,  that  at  one 
period  the  chace  occupied  a considerable  part  of  his  time,  it  will 
be  seen  how  many  points  of  resemblance  occur  between  him  and 
our  own  James  the  First.  Like  James  he  is  said  to  be  naturally 
just  and  kind-hearted,  and  with  all  who  have  access  to  him  he  is 


332 


KING  OF  OUDE, 


extremely  popular.  No  single  act  of  violence  or  oppression  has 
ever  been  ascribed  to  him,  or  supposed  to  have  been  perpetrated 
with  his  knowledge,  and  his  errors  have  been  a want  of  method 
and  economy  in  his  expenses,  a want  of  accessibility  to  his  sub- 
jects, a blind  confidence  in  favourites,  and,  as  will  be  seen,  an 
unfortunate,  though  not  very  unnatural,  attachment  to  different 
points  of  etiquette  and  prerogative. 

His  father’s  minister,  at  the  time  of  his  death,  was  Hukeem 
Mendee,  a man  of  very  considerable  talents,  great  hereditary 
opulence  and  influence,  and  to  the  full  as  honest  and  respectable 
in  his  public  and  private  conduct  as  an  Eastern  Vizier  can  usually 
be  expected  to  be.  The  new  sovereign  was  said  not  to  be  very 
fond  of  him,  but  there  seemed  not  the  least  intention  of  removing 
him  till  his  power  was  undermined,  most  unfortunately  for  all 
parties,  by  the  British  themselves. 

The  then  Resident  at  Lucknow  was  said  to  interfere  too  much 
in  the  private  affairs  of  the  King,  and  in  the  internal  and  regular 
administration  of  the  country.  The  minister  would  not  allow  it, 
and  the  King  was  so  much  irritated  by  this  real,  or  supposed 
interference,  that  he  sent,  by  some  of  his  European  servants,  the 
private  intelligence  to  Lord  Hastings,  of  which  mention  is  made 
in  the  justificatory  memoir  of  the  latter.  Lord  Hastings  readily 
took  up  the  affair ; but  in  the  meantime  some  of  the  King’s  ser- 
vants, among  whom  was  his  khansaman,  worked  upon  their 
master’s  timidity,  by  representing  the  danger  of  coming  to  an 
open  quarrel  with  the  Resident,  the  probability  that  the  English 
would  not  credit  the  complaints  brought  against  their  own  coun- 
tryman, and  urged  him  to  a compromise  before  it  was  too  late. 
In  consequence,  the  King  retracted  the  complaint,  and  ascribed 
it  to  the  incorrect  information  and  bad  advice  of  the  Hukeem 
Mendee,  who  was  in  consequence  deprived  of  many  of  his  prin- 
cipal employments,  which  were  transferred  to  the  present  minister, 
with  the  general  consent  of  all  parties,  and  with  the  concurrence 
of  the  Hukeem  himself,  as  a man  personally  acceptable  to  the 
sovereign,  of  pliant  and  pleasing  manners,  and  not  likely  to  aim 
at,  or  obtain  more  power  than  it  was  thought  fit  to  entrust  to  him. 
Soon  after,  however,  the  new  influence  succeeded  in  getting  the 
Hukeem  Mendee  deprived  of  one  profitable  post  after  another, 
in  stripping  him  of  many  of  the  Zemindarries  in  his  hands,  and 
at  length  in  having  him  thrown  into  prison,  whence  he  was  only 
released  by  the  interposition  of  the  British  Government.  He 
now  lives  in  great  splendour  at  F uttehghur. 

Expecting  me  to  go  to  Futtehghur,  he  sent  me,  through  Mr. 
Williams  of  Cawnpoor,  a very  civil  invitation  to  his  house,  with 
the  assurance  that  he  had  an  English  house-keeper,  who  knew 
perfectly  well  how  to  do  the  honours  of  his  establishment  to 


KING  OF  OUDE. 


333 


gentlemen  of  her  own  nation.  (She  is  in  fact  a singular  female, 
who  became  the  wife  of  one  of  the  Hindoostanee  professors  at 
Hertford,  now  the  Hukeem’s  Dewan,  and  bears,  1 believe,  a very 
respectable  character.)  Hukeem  Mendee  was  too  powerful  a 
man  to  be  summarily  got  rid  of,  but  more  violent  means  were 
taken  with  others.  One  man  of  high  rank  was  murdered  in  open 
day  in  the  city ; others  were  driven  out  of  the  country,  and  every 
death  and  every  banishment  was  a fresh  occasion  of  adding  a new 
place,  or  a new  Zemindarrie  to  the  minister’s  hoard. 

While  he  grew  rich,  the  king  grew  more  and  more  in  debt. 
No  check  whatever  was  given  either  to  the  receipt  or  issue  of 
public  money.  The  favourite  had  succeeded  in  getting  both  the 
secretaryship  and  treasurership  in  his  own  hands ; and  all  that 
was  known  was,  that  the  minister  built  a magnificent  house,  and 
the  king  lavished  great  sums  in  all  manner  of  trinkets,  while 
the  troops  and  pufiic  functionaries  were  without  pay,  and  the 
peasantry  driven  to  despair  by  continual  fresh  exactions.  Of  the 
two  millions  which  his  father  had  left,  the  king  had  lent  one  to 
Lord  Hastings  to  carry  on  the  Nepal  war.  For  this  he  was  to 
receive  interest,  but  unfortunately  for  him,  he  accepted,  instead 
of  all  payment,  a grant  of  fresh  territory  under  the  Himalaya 
mountains,  which  is  entirely  unproductive,  being  either  savage 
wilderness,  or  occupied  by  a race  of  mountaineers,  who  pay  no 
taxes  without  being  compelled,  and  whom  he  has  not  the  means 
of  compelling.  After  a second  loan.  Lord  Hastings  encouraged 
the  Vizier  to  assume  the  title  of  King.  But  the  worst  consequence 
of  both  these  loans  was,  that  by  laying  the  British  Government 
under  a great  obligation  to  the  King,  they  compelled  Lord  Hastings 
to  suspend  all  further  urging  of  the  different  measures  of  reform 
in  the  administration  of  justice  and  the  collection  of  the  revenue, 
which  had  been  begun  in  Saadut  Ali’s  time,  for  the  benefit  of  the 
people  of  Oude,  and  which  the  Hukeem  Mendee,  Awhile  he  re- 
mained in  power,  had  been  gradually  introducing,  by  the  sugges- 
tion of  the  British  Resident,  and  after  the  models  afforded  in  our 
provinces.  The  chief  of  these  was  the  substitution  of  a regular 
system  of  Zemindarrie  collectors  for  the  taxes,  instead  of  a num- 
ber of  “ fermiers  publics,”  who  take  them  from  year  to  year  by 
a sort  of  auction,  collecting  them  afterwards  in  kind  or  in  any 
way  which  suits  them  best,  and  who,  by  a strange  injustice,  are 
themselves  the  assessors,  and,  in  many  instances,  the  only  ac- 
cessible court  of  appeal,  as  well  as  the  principal  persons  who 
derive  a profit  from  the  amount  collected.  This  wretched  system, 
it  must  be  owned,  is  very  common  throughout  the  native  govern- 
ments ; but,  when  a sovereign  is  himself  a man  of  talents  and 
energy,  or  when  his  minister  has  any  regard  for  his  own  reputa- 
tion, it  has  many  checks  which,  in  the  present  case,  did  not 


334 


KING  OF  OUDE. 


operate.  In  consequence,  three  or  four  times  more  than  the 
sums  really  due  were  often  extorted  by  these  locusts,  who  went 
down  and  encamped  in  different  parts  of  the  country,  and,  under 
various  pretences,  so  devoured  and  worried  the  people  that  they 
were  glad  to  get  rid  of  them  on  any  terms.  Nay,  sometimes, 
when  one  Aumeen  had  rnade  his  bargain  with  the  land-owners 
and  tenants,  and  received  the  greater  part  of  the  payment  in 
advance,  a second  would  make  his  appearance  with  more  recent 
powers,  (having  out-bid  his  predecessors,)  and  begin  assessing 
and  collecting  anew,  telling  the  plundered  villagers  that  they  had 
done  wrong  to  pay  before  it  was  due,  and  that  they  must  look  to 
the  first  man  for  repayment  of  what  they  had  been  defrauded  of. 
“ All  this  has  been  done,”  was  said  to  me,  ‘‘  and  the  King  will 
neither  see  it  nor  hear  it.”  It  was  not  likely,  however,  to  be 
done  long  without  resistance.  The  stronger  Zemindars  built 
mud  forts,  the  poor  Ryuts  planted  bamboos  and  thorny  jungle 
round  their  villages ; every,  man  that  had  not  a sword  sold  his 
garment  to  procure  one,  and  they  bade  the  king’s  officers  keep 
their  distance.  The  next  step,  however,  of  Government,  was  to 
call  in  the  aid  of  British  troops  to  quell  these  insurgents.  This 
the  King  of  Oude  had,  by  the  letter  and  spirit  of  existing  treaties, 
a right  to  do.  His  father  and  uncle  had  purchased  this  right  by 
the  cession  of  nearly  one-third  of  their  whole  territories, — by 
the  admission  of  two  or  three  garrisons  of  subsidiary  troops  into 
their  remaining  provinces,  and  by  the  disbanding  of  by  far  the 
greater  part  of  their  own  army,  on  the  express  condition  that  the 
English  should  undertake  to  defend  them  against  all  external  and 
internal  enemies.  Still  Saadut  Ali  had  used  this  right  very 
sparingly.  He  was  not  fond  of  admitting,  far  less  requesting,  any 
more  foreign  interference  than  he  could  help.  And  his  own 
guards,  consisting  of  2000  regular  infantry,  1000  horse,  300  artil- 
lery, and  the  irregulars  whom  I have  noticed,  were  enough  for 
all  unusual  occasions,  and  were  in  excellent  order  and  discipline. 
Now,  however,  all  was  changed.  The  soldiers  themselves  were 
so  ill  paid  that  it  was  difficult  to  keep  them  together ; the  artil- 
lery, a beautiful  little  corps,  first  mutinied  and  then  disbanded 
themselves  to  the  last  man,  and  the  King  had  really  no  option 
between  either  altering  his  system,  or  governing  without  taxes, 
or  calling  in  British  aid.  That  aid  was  demanded  and  given ; 
and  during  the  greater  part  of  Lord  Hastings’  time  this  wretched 
country  was  pillaged  under  sanction  of  the  British  name,  and 
under  the  terror  of  sepoy  bayonets,  till  at  length  the  remon- 
strances of  the  British  officers  employed  on  this  service  became 
so  urgent,  and  the  scandal  so  notorious  and  so  great,  not  to  omit 
that  the  number  of  the  disaffected  increased  daily,  and  that  the 
more  parties  were  sent  out  in  support  of  the  Aiimeens,  the  more 


KING  OF  OUDE. 


335 


were  called  for,  while  every  peasant  who  lost  lands  or  property 
in  the  progress  of  the  system,  became  a Decoit  and  made  inroads 
into  the  Company’s  provinces,  that  a different  course  was  impe- 
riously forced  on  government.  Accordingly,  the  Resident  was 
instructed  to  urge  anew  on  the  king  the  adoption  of  a regular 
system  of  leasing  the  crown  dues  for  a certain  number  of  years, 
like  that  adopted  in  the  Company’s  territories,  and  leasing  them 
to  the  Zemindars  themselves,  not  to  these  greedy  Aumeens.  He 
was  directed  also  to  require  proof,  before  granting  the  aid  of 
troops,  that  the  sums  said  to  be  withheld  were  really  due.  To 
the  first  of  these  proposals  the  king  answered,  that  he  would 
introduce  the  system  gradually  and  with  such  modifications  as 
suited  his  country.  He  even  named  a district  in  which  he  would 
begin  it ; but,  though  two  years  have  now  elapsed,  nothing  has 
yet  been  done.  The  second  was  met  by  sending  a number  of 
documents  to  the  Resident,  of  whose  history  and  authenticity  he 
could  know  nothing,  but  which  the  officers  sent  with  the  detach- 
ment declared  they  believed  to  be  often  perfect  forgeries.  Mr. 
Ricketts,  therefore,  about  a year  ago,  declined  granting  any  more 
military  aid,  unless  the  King  would,  first,  immediately  carry  into 
effect  his  promised  reform ; secondly,  unless  he  would  allow  an 
English  commissioner,  versed  in  such  matters,  to  accompany 
each  detachment,  and  determine  on  the  spot  the  justice  of  the 
Aumeen’s  claim  ; thirdly,  unless  he  would  himself,  after  the 
example  of  his  royal  ancestors,  hold  frequent  and  public  Durbar, 
to  receive  petitions  from  his  subjects,  and  attend  to  these  specific 
complaints  ; and  fourthly,  unless,  to  prevent  the  constant  incur- 
sion of  robbers  from  his  majesty’s  into  the  Company’s  territories, 
he  would  allow  the  judge  and  magistrates  of  the  adjoining  districts 
to  pursue  and  seize  Deceits  within  his  frontier. 

To  these  proposals  his  answers  have  been  very  ingenious  and 
plausible.  To  the  first  he  says  that  such  great  changes  cannot  be 
the  work  of  a day ; that  when  half  his  subjects  are  in  arms  against 
him,  is  not  precisely  the  time  to  obtain  a fair  assessment  or  a 
permanent  settlement  of  the  land  ; but  if  the  British  will  first,  as 
he  calls  on  them  in  the  terms  of  their  treaty  to  do,  put  down 
his  rebellious  Zemindars,  destroy  their  mud-forts,  and  disarm 
their  people,  he  will  pledge  himself  to  adopt,  in  course  of  time, 
and  with  due  deliberation,  such  a system  as  will  give  satisfaction. 
To  the  second  he  answers  with  some  reason,  that  the  introduc- 
tion of  English  judges  and  revenue  officers,  for  such  the  proposed 
commissioners  would  be,  into  his  country,  would  make  his  own 
officers  cyphers,  and  his  own  power  contemptible,  and  that  he 
would  sooner  bid  adieu  to  his  crown  at  once,  and  turn  Faqueer. 
To  the  third,  that  he  has  not  understood  it  to  be  the  custom  of 
either  the  King  of  England  or  the  Governor-general,  to  hold  such 


336 


KING  OF  OUDE. 


an  open  Durbar  as  they  recommend,  nor  will  those  who  have 
seen  a Lucknow  mob  anticipate  any  beneficial  effects  from  such 
excessive  accessibility.  But  to  prove  his  regard  for  his  people, 
he  has  instructed  his  prime  minister  to  hold  a Durbar  for  these 
precise  purposes  twice  a week,  who  is  charged  to  report  all  cases 
of  importance  to  his  own  ear.  The  fourth  he  answers  by  saying, 
that  it  is  very  hard  to  accuse  him  of  harbouring  robbers,  while  we 
refuse  him  all  aid  in  putting  down  the  very  Zemindars  whose 
fortresses  and  fastnesses  are  the  common  nests  of  robbery  and 
rebellion  ; that  if  we  help  him  to  subdue  his  rebels,  he.  will  keep 
his  robbers  in  order  himself : but  that  it  would  be  a cruel  mock- 
ery to  continue  to  call  him  a king,  if  any  neighbouring  magistrate 
might  enter  his  dominions  at  pleasure.  He  urges  that  “ all  his 
difficulties  have  arisen  from  his  entire  confidence  in  the  friend- 
ship of  the  Company.  That  this  induced  him  and  his  ancestors 
to  disband  an  excellent  army,  till  they  scarce  left  sentries 
enough  for  the  palace ; and  thus  they  have  become  unable,  with- 
out help,  to  enforce  payment  of  their  ancient  revenues.  That 
this  induced  him  to  lend  to  the  British  Government  all  the  money 
which  would  else  have  enabled  him  to  ease  the  people  of  their 
burthens,  and  to  meet  without  inconvenience  whatever  loss  of  in- 
come a new  assessment  may,  for  some  time,  render  inevitable. 
That  he  never  has  refused,  and  never  will  refuse,  to  give  the  best 
consideration  in  his  power  to  any  measures  of  reform  which  may 
be,  in  a friendly  manner,  proposed  to  him  : but  he  refers  those 
who  represent  him  as  a tyrant,  or  who  speak  of  his  country  as 
depopulated,  to  every  traveller  who  has  marched  along  its  prin- 
cipal roads,  and  has  observed  the  extent  of  cultivation  through 
which  they  are  carried.”  He  concludes  by  saying,  that  “ he  is 
aware,  that  notwithstanding  the  tone  of  equality  and  independ- 
ence which  in  their  treaties  and  official  correspondence  the  Com- 
pany have  allowed  him  to  maintain,  he  is  in  fact  in  their  power  ; 
but  if  he  is  to  reign  at  all,  for  which  he  knows  that  he  has  no 
guarantee  but  British  good  faith,  he  entreats  that  his  requests  for 
the  performance  of  a positive  treaty  may  not  be  met  by  stipula- 
tions which  would  render  that  treaty  vain,  that  he  may  be  de- 
fended from  the  only  enemies  he  has,  or  is  likely  to  have,  his 
rebellious  Zemindars,  and  protected  in  the  exercise  of  functions 
which  are  essential  parts  of  that  sovereignty  which  has  been  so 
solemnly  and  repeatedly  guaranteed  to  him.”  The  statement, 
of  which  these  are  the  purport,  I thought  very  curious  ; they 
certainly  show  strongly  the  perplexities  and  mischief  arising  from 
the  subsidiary  system  which  seems  for  so  many  years  to  have 
been  our  favourite  policy  in  India,  and  to  which  it  must  be  owned 
a considerable  part  of  our  political  greatness  is  owing. 

I can  bear  witness  certainly  to  the  truth  of  the  King’s  state- 


KING  OF  OUDE. 


337 


ment,  that  his  territories  are  really  in  a far  better  state  of  cultiva- 
tion than  I had  expected  to  find  them.  From  Lucknow  to 
Santee,  where  I am  now  writing,  the  country  is  as  populous  and 
w3l  cultivated  as  most  of  the  Company’s  provinces.  The  truth 
perhaps  is,  that  for  more  than  a year  back,  since  the  aid  of  British 
troops  has  been  withheld,  affairs  have  been  in  some  respects 
growing  better.  The  Zemindars  have  in  a few  instances  carried 
their  point,  the  Aumeens  have  been  either  driven  away  entirely 
or  been  forced  to  a moderate  compromise,  and  the  chief  actual 
sufferers  at  the  present  moment  are  the  King,  who  gets  little  or 
nothing  even  of  his  undoubted  dues,  and  the  traveller,  who,  unless 
he  have  such  a guard  as  I have,  had  better  sleep  in  a safe  skin  on 
the  other  side  of  the  Ganges.  It  should  be  observed,  however, 
that  I have  as  yet  seen  no  signs  of  those  mud-forts,  stockades,  and 
fortresses,  on  which  the  Zemindars  and  peasantry  are  said  to  rely 
for  safety ; that  the  common  people  north  of  Lucknow  are,  I 
think,  not  so  universally  loaded  with  arms  as  those  to  the  south- 
ward, and  that  though  I have  heard  a good  deal  all  the  way  of 
the  distressed  state  of  the  country,  as  well  as  its  anarchy  and 
lawlessness,  except  in  the  single  instance  I have  mentioned, 
where  the  treasure  was  attacked,  1 have  seen  no  signs  of  either, 
or  had  any  reason  to  suppose  that  the  King’s  writ  does  not  pass 
current,  or  that  our  Aumeen  would  have  the  least  difficulty  in 
enforcing  it  in  our  favour,  even  without  the  small  payment  which 
1 give,  and  which  is  evidently  accepted  as  a gratuity,  I cannot 
but  suspect,  therefore,  that  the  misfortunes  and  anarchy  of  Oude 
are  somewhat  overrated,  though  it  is  certain  that  so  fine  a land 
will  take  a long  time  in  ruining,  and  that  very  many  years  of  op- 
pression will  be  required  to  depopulate  a country  which  pro- 
duces on  the  same  soil,  and  with  no  aid  but  irrigation,  crops  of 
wheat  and  pulse  every  year.  . 

It  seemed  strange  to  me  why,  since  so  much  of  the  present 
calamities  of  the  country  were  ascribed  to  the  misconduct  of  the 
minister,  his  removal  was  not  demanded  in  the  first  instance,  after 
which  all  subsequent  measures  of  reform  might  be  looked  forward 
to  as  attainable.  But  it  was  apprehended  that  the  King  would 
rather  abdicate  than  be  dictated  to  in  this  particular,  and  that  it 
was  thought  better  to  urge  an  effectual  change  of  system,  than  the 
mere  removal  of  an  individual  who  might  be  replaced  by  some- 
body not  at  all  better.  I asked  also  if  the  people  thus  oppressed 
desired,  as  I had  been  assured  they  did,  to  be  placed  under  Eng- 
lish Government  ? Captain  Lockitt  said  that  he  had  heard  the 
same  thing ; but  on  his  way  this  year  to  Lucknow,  and  convers- 
ing, as  his  admirable  knowledge  of  Hindoostanee  enables  him  to 
do,  familiarly  with  the  suwarrs  who  accompanied  him,  and  who 
spoke  out,  like  all  the  rest  of  their  countrymen,  on  the  weakness 
VoL.  I.— 43 


338 


CHRISTIANS  IN  LUCKNOW. 


of  the  King  and  the  wickedness  of  the  Government,  he  fairly  pot 
the  question  to  them,  when  the  jemautdar,  joining  his  hands,  ^id 
with  great  fervency,  “ miserable  as  we  are,  of  all  miseries  keeia  us 
from  that !”  “ Why  so  said  Captain  Lockitt,  “ are  not  our 

people  far  better  governed  ?”  “ Yes,”  was  the  answer,  but  the 

name  of  Oude  and  the  honour  of  our  nation  would  be  at  an  end.” 
There  are,  indeed,  many  reasons  why  high-born  and  ambitious 
men  must  be  exceedingly  averse  to  our  rule ; but  the  preced- 
ing expression  of  one  in  humble  rank  savours  of  more  national 
feeling  and  personal  frankness  than  is  always  met  with  in  India. 
He  was  a soldier,  however,  and  a Mussulman,  who  spoke  thus. 
A Hindoo  Ryut  might  have  answered  differently,  and  it  is  pos- 
sible that  both  accounts  may  be  true,  though  this  only  can  I 
vouch  for  as  authentic.  It  ought  to  be  borne  in  mind,  that  the 
oppression  and  anarchy  to  which  Oude  is  a prey,  are  chiefly  felt 
and  witnessed  in  the  villages.  In  the  towns  the  King’s  authority 
passes  unquestioned,  and  I have  not  heard  that  the  dustoury 
levied  is  irregular  or  excessive.  An  insurrection  in  Lucknow 
would  be  a dreadful  thing,  and  most  ministers  will  be  careful  how 
they  excite  it. 

The  population  of  Lucknow  is  guessed  at  three  hundred  thou- 
sand. But  Mussulmans  regard  every  attempt  to  number  the 
people  as  a mark  of  great  impiety,  and  a sure  presage  of  famine 
or  pestilence  ; so  that  nothing  can  be  known  with  accuracy. 
It  is,  1 really  think,  large  enough  and  sufficiently  crowded  to  con- 
tain that  number.  There  are  two  bridges  over  the  Goomty,  one 
a very  noble  old  Gothic  edifice  of  stone,  of,  I believe,  eleven 
arches ; the  other  a platform  laid  on  boats,  and  merely  connect- 
ing the  king’s  park  with  his  palace.  Saadut  Ali  had  brought 
over  an  iron  bridge  from  England,  and  a place  was  prepared  for 
its  erection ; but  on  his  death  the  present  sovereign  declined  pro- 
secuting the  work,  on  the  ground  that  it  was  unlucky ; so  that 
in  all  probability  it  will  lie  where  it  is,  till  the  rust  reduces  it 
to  powder. 

There  are,  in  Lucknow,  a considerable  number  of  Christians 
of  one  kind  or  other.  Besides  the  numerous  dependants  of  the 
Residency,  the  King  has  a great  many  Europeans  and  half-castes 
in  his  employ.  There  are  also  many  tradesmen  of  both  these 
descriptions,  and  a strange  medley  of  adventurers  of  all  nations 
and  sects,  who  ramble  hither  in  the  hope,  generally  a fruitless 
one,  of  obtaining  employment. 

1 had  numerous  congregations,  both  at  the  Cantonments  and 
the  Residency,  the  two  Sundays  which  I staid.  The  Hindoostanee 
reads  well  in  prayer,  particularly  those  words  which  are  derived 
from  the  Arabic,  as  most  of  the  religious  terms  in  the  translation 
of  our  Liturgy  appear  to  be.  I like  the  sound  of  “ Aram  Ullahi 


LUCKNOW. 


339 


jo  sare  fahemon  se  bahur  hue “ The  peace  of  God,  &c.;” 
and  of  “ Khoda  Khader,  Mutluk,  jo  Bap  our  Beta  our  Ruk 
Kodus  hue  “ God  victorious,  Mighty,  the  Father,  Son,  and 
Holy  Ghost.”  1 had  also  twelve  candidates  for  confirmation, 
and  administered  the  sacrament  to  twenty-five  persons,  and  found 
the  people  extremely  anxious  to  assemble  for  public  worship. 
The  first  Sunday  I preached,  indeed,  three  times,  and  twice  the 
second,  besides  giving  two  confirmation  lectures  on  the  Friday 
and  Saturday,  and  some  other  occasional  duty.  Mr.  Ricketts  is 
himself  in  the  habit  of  acting  as  chaplain  at  the  Residency  every 
Sunday  ; but  the  people  in  the  king’s  employ,  and  the  other 
Christian  inhabitants,  compla'in  that  Government  are  very  jealous 
of  their  attending  at  that  place,  and  they  express  great  anxiety  to 
establish  a similar  meeting  for  devotional  purposes  among  them- 
selves. It  would  not  be  expedient  at  present  to  sen^  a missionary 
here  ; but  they  might  have  a schoolmaster,  furnished  by  our  So- 
ciety, with  a stock  of  sermons  to  be  read  every  Sunday.  I have 
requested  Mr.  Corrie  to  inquire  for  such  a person.  There  are  a few 
Roman  Catholics,  mostly  Portuguese,  or  their  degenerate  de- 
scendants, who  have  a small  chapel,  and  a Propaganda  Franciscan 
priest.  And,  to  show  the  strange  mixture  of  adventurers  who 
are  attracted  hither,  I had  applications  made  to  me  for  charity  by 
a Spaniard  from  Lima  in  Peru,  who  had  come  in  search  of  ser- 
vice, and  a Silesian  Jew,  who  pretended  that  he  had  been  an 
officer  in  the  Russian  army,  and  had  been  encouraged  to  bend 
his  course  in  this  direction  by  the  golden  dreams  which  men  in 
Europe  build  of  the  opening  for  talent  and  adventurous  spirit  in 
India.  I should  have  thought  this  last  fellow  a spy,  had  he  not 
been  quite  without  papers  or  documents  of  any  kind,  or  if  it  had 
not  been  unlikely  that  a Russian  spy  would  have  openly  professed 
to  have  served  in  the  Russian  army.  He  was  exceedingly  igno- 
rant, spoke  wretched  French  and  German,  with  a strong  Jewish 
accent,  and,  instead  of  having  served  in  the  army,  had  every  ap- 
pearance of  having  sold  oranges  all  his  days  in  Leipzic. 


340 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

LUCKNOW  TO  BAREILLY. 

DEPARTUEE  FROM  LUCKNOW GRATITUDE  OP  SEPOYS — ILLNESS — MUS- 
SULMAN SUWARR SANDEE DISPUTE  BETWEEN  TWO  VILLAGES 

SHAHJEHANPOOR REBEL  CHIEF  IN  THE  FOREST ANECDOTE  OP 

ROHILLA  CHIEF FERTILITY  OP  ROHILCUND FUTTEHGUNGE HA- 
FEZ REHMUT VISIT  FROM  TUSSULDAR FURREEDPOOR BAREILLY 

PROFESSIONAL  DUTIES CHARACTER  OF  ROHILLAS PREPARA- 
TIONS FOE  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

On  Monday,  November  1st,  having  united  my  two  kind-hearted 
friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ricketts,  and  taken  leave  of  them,  the 
Corries,  and  poor  Lushington,  whose  bad  health  obliged  me  to 
leave  him  behind,  under  the  care  of  the  Residency  surgeon,  Mr. 
Luxmoore,  I set  off  from  Lucknow  alone,  and,  I confess,  with 
more  regret  and  depression  of  spirits  than  I expected  to  feel  on 
such  an  occasion.  I had  become  quite  intimate  with  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Ricketts ; for  the  Corries  and  Lushington  I feel  a sincere 
regard,  and  I could  not  but  be  painfully  sensible  how  great  the 
probability  was,  in  such  a climate,  that  this  might,  on  earth, 
be  our  last  meeting.  I had  the  satisfaction,  however,  to  leave 
the  Archdeacon  much  better  than  he  had  been,  and  to  find  that 
Mr.  Luxmoore  thought  favourably  of  Lushington’s  case.  But  it 
was,  altogether,  a sad  leave-taking.  Lushington  was  very  low, 
in  spite  of  many  endeavours  to  speak  cheerfully,  the  Corries 
much  agitated,  and  their  little  girls  in  tears  ; and  I do  not  think  I 
felt  least  of  the  party,  though  I believe  I talked  the  most  on  va- 
rious subjects. 

I had  found  great  difficulty  in  ascertaining  the  best  road  to 
Bareilly.  That  marked  down  in  Baton’s  routes  was  declared,  by 
the  Dak  Moonshee,  and  the  King’s  Aumeen,  the  only  persons 
from  whom  I was  likely  to  obtain  information,  to  be  no  longer 
practicable,  the  villages  specified  there  being  either  deserted,  or 
so  far  impoverished  as  to  afford  neither  supplies  nor  shade.  A 
very  direct  road,  which  is  marked  on  Arrowsmith’s  map,  and 
which  runs  north-west  from  Lucknow  to  Shahabad,  was  said  by 
the  sarbann  to  be  probably  good  and  practicable  at  this  time  of 
year : but  the  Aumeen  declared  he  ^could  not  possibly  go  with 
me  that  way ; that  it  was  mostly  wild  jungle,  and  inhabited  by 
Zemindars,  at  present  in  a state  of  rebellion.  I argued  the  matter 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  JOURNEY. 


341 


some  time,  for  the  difference  of  distance  is  really  great,  and 
with  a guard  of  fifty  men  there  was  no  danger  to  be  apprehended. 
But  the  old  man  said  that  though,  perhaps,  we  might  be  safe  from  v 
open  attack,  we  should  certainly  get  no  supplies, — that  nobody 
ever  went  that  way  but  Faqueers  and  hunters,  and  that  the  King 
had  himself  ordered  him  to  take  me  the  ‘‘  Shahi  Rustu,”  King’s 
highway.  1 then  gave  up  the  point,  which  I afterwards  was  sorry 
for,  for  the  jemautdar  of  the  horse-guards  whom  the  King  sent 
with  me,  assured  me  that  one  was  as  much  a Shahi  Rustu  as  the 
other,  and  that  1 should  have  found  the  Shahabad  road  not  only 
three  days  shorter,  but,  in  his  mind,  much  more  pleasant.  He 
owned  that  there  were  plenty  of  thieves  and  Zemindars,  but  none 
that  were  likely  to  meddle  with  us,  or  of  whom  any  but  a timid 
old  Aumeen  would  be  afraid ; and  he  spoke  with  a good  deal  of 
glee  of  the  deer  and  the  wild  hogs  which  we  should  have  met 
with  in  these  woodland  marches.  It  must  be  owned,  however, 
that  none  of  the  British  officers  at  the  Lucknow  cantonments, 
nor  any  body  at  the  Residency,  or  of  the  Europeans  in  the  King’s 
service,  had  ever  been  this  road,  or  believed  it  to  be  practicable, 
so  that  we  might  possibly  have  been  occasionally  put  to  some  in- 
convenience for  supplies.  As  it  was,  I found  it  impossible  to  get 
the  distance  to  Bareilly  divided  into  less  than  fourteen  stages,  and 
was  compelled,  therefore,  to  send  off  the  tents  and  baggage  on 
Sunday  morning,  in  order  that  I might  reach  that  place  for  divine 
service  on  the  14th,  and  rest  the  intervening  Sunday  by  the  way. 

My  separation  from  Mr.  Lushington  enabled  me  to  send  back 
to  Cawnpoor  one  elephant  and  six  camels,  besides  the  two 
elephants  which  belonged  to  Mr.  Corrie’s  tent.  I also  sent  back 
a routee,  but  kept  two  small  double-poled  tents,  in  order  to  save 
trouble  and  time  by  pitching  them  on  alternate  days.  I had  still 
three  elephants  and  twenty-two  camels,  including  two  spare 
ones,  a number  which  was  rendered  necessary  by  the  length  and 
arduous  nature  of  the  journey  before  me,  as  well  as  by  the  num- 
ber of  tents  and  quantity  of  baggage  required  by  my  escort.  That 
consisted,  besides  the  King’s  ten  guards,  of  forty  sepoys,  under  a 
“ Soubahdar,”  a native  officer,  and  four  non-commissioned  officers. 

I thought  this  number  unnecessary,  but  was  told  it  was  according 
to  rule ; and  it  so  happened  that  1 occasioned  no  inconvenience 
to  the  service,  since  the  officers  and  men  who  were  assigned  me 
were  actually  under  orders  for  Nusseerabad,  and  might  just  as 
well  accompany  me  thither.  My  new  Soubahdar  was  introduced 
to  me  on  the  Saturday  by  his  predecessor,  who  was  himself, 
against  his  will,  ordered  back  to  Cawnpoor.  The  new  one  is  a 
grave,  modest-looking  old  man,  with  a white  beard,  a native  of 
Rajapootana,  and  of  high  caste,  but  of  far  more  reserved  man- 
ners, and  greater  diffidence  than  the  former.  He  is,  however,  a 


34^ 


GRATITUDE  OF  SEPOYS. 


Hindoo,  and  they  are  certainly  a less  dashing  race  than  the 
Mussulmans. 

All  my  tents  and  baggage  being  gone,  except  what  clothes  a 
bag  held,  and  all  my  servants  but  two,  I set  out  at  half  past  four 
o’clock,  on  one  of  Mr.  Ricketts’s  elephants,  accompanied  by 
Captain  Salmon  on  another,  and  attended  by  a third  with  the  two 
servants.  Mr.  Ricketts  had  thought  it  proper  that  Captain 
Salmon  and  a body  of  suwarrs  should  go  with  me  through  the 
city ; and  the  King,  whose  howdahs  had  no  tilts  to  them,  had 
kindly  stationed  two  more  elephants  half-way,  to  receive  me  as 
soon  as  the  sun  should  be  gone  down.  In  this  way  I made  the 
journey  rapidly  and  agreeably,  and  reached  my  tent  at  Hussun- 
gunge,  twenty  miles  from  Lucknow,  a little  after  eight  in  the 
evening.  In  the  way,  at  Futtehgunge,  I passed  the  tents  pitched 
for  the  large  party  which  were  to  return  towards  Cawnpoor  next 
day,  and  I was  much  pleased  and  gratified  by  the  Soubahdar  and 
the  greater  number  of  the  sepoys  of  my  old  escort  running  into  the 
middle  of  the  road  to  bid  me  another  farewell,  and  again  express 
their  regret  that  they  were  not  going  on  with  me  “ to  the  world’s 
end.”  They  who  talk  of  the  ingratitude  of  the  Indian  character, 
should,  I think,  pay  a little  more  attention  to  cases  of  this  sort. 
These  men  neither  got  nor  expected  any  thing  by  this  little  ex- 
pression of  good  will.  If  I had  ofifered  them  money,  they  would 
have  been  bound,  by  the  rules  of  the  service  and  their  own 
dignity,  not  to  take  it.  Sufficient  civility  and  respect  would  have 
been  paid  if  any  of  them  who  happened  to  be  near  the  road  had 
touched  their  caps,  and  I really  can  suppose  them  actuated  by 
no  motive  but  good  will.  It  had  not  been  excited,  so  far  as  I 
know,  by  any  particular  desert  on  my  part ; but  I had  always 
spoken  to  them  civilly,  had  paid  some  attention  to  their  comforts, 
in  securing  them  tents,  fire-wood,  and  camels  for  their  knapsacks, 
and  had  ordered  them  a dinner,  after  their  own  fashion,  on  their 
arrival  at  Lucknow,  at  the  expense  of,  I believe,  not  more  than 
four  rupees  ! Surely  if  good  will  is  to  be  bought  by  these  sort  of 
attentions,  it  is  a pity  that  any  body  should  neglect  them  ! 

The  suwarrs  furnished  by  the  King  for  this  journey  were  a 
very  different  description  of  men  from  those  who  previously 
accompanied  me.  They  were  evidently  picked  for  the  purpose, 
being  tall,  strong  young  fellows,  on  exceedingly  good  horses,  and 
as  well  armed  as  could  be  wished  for  the  nature  of  their  service. 

We  passed  again  through  Nawalgunge,  and  I asked  after  the 
sick  elephant,  but  was  told  he  died  the  same  morning  that  we 
went  on  towards  Lucknow. 

November  2. — I went  five  coss  to  Meeagunge,  which  was  built 
by  the  famous  eunuch  Almass  Ali  Khan,  whose  proper  name, 
while  in  a state  of  servitude,  was  Meea.  It  consists  of  a large 


MALLAON. 


343 


fort  of  bricks,  with  eight  circular  bastions,  surrounded  by  an 
exterior  enclosure,  at  perhaps  five  hundred  yards  distance,  of 
mud,  but  also  in  the  shape  of  a fortification,  with  great  gothic 
gateways  corresponding  to  those  in  the  central  enclosure.  Be- 
tween are  avenues  of  very  noble  mangoe-trees,  with  which, 
indeed,  the  whole  intervening  space  is  planted,  though  at  such 
considerable  intervals  as  not  to  intercept  the  breeze.  It  is  a fine 
old-fashioned  park,  but  now  trees,  towers,  gates,  and  palaces  are 
sinking  fast  into  rubbish  and  forgetfulness.  Almass  had  here  a 
park  of  forty  pieces  of  artillery,  and  when  he  received  a visit 
from  the  Nawab  Saadut  Ali,  he  built  him  up  a throne  of  a million 
of  rupees,  of  which,  when  his  Highness  was  seated  on  it,  he  begged 
him  to  accept.  The  fort  is  now  filled  with  the  bazar  of  a poor 
village,  erected  under  the  shade  of  the  mangoes  ; the  park  was 
laid  down,  when  I saw  it,  in  quillets  of  beautiful  green  wheat  and 
barley. 

1 had  been  unwell  for  the  last  two  days,  and  was  obliged  to 
perform  my  journey  of  the  3d  in  my  palanquin,  the  best  way  in 
which  a sick  man  could  make  it ; I travelled  seven  coss  to  Seetal- 
gunge,  the  country  level,  fertile,  and  well  cultivated.  The  whole 
of  this  day  I felt  extremely  ill,  and  was  in  much  perplexity  what 
to  do,  as  I was  some  days*  journey  from  any  medical  adviser. 
The  application,  however,  of  leeches  to  my  temples  relieved  me 
considerably,  and  1 was  able  to  get  into  my  palanquin  the  next 
morning,  intending  if  possible  to  push  on,  so  that  if  I grew  worse 
I might  be  able  to  get  assistance  by  sending  a servant  on  to 
Futtehgunge,  the  nearest  station,  on  a swift-trotting  camel. 

This  day’s  march,  the  4th,  brought  me  to  a large  town  called 
Mallaon,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  which  my  tents  were  pitched. 
Here  I remained  the  whole  of  the  next  day,  being  too  ill  to  move. 
At  the  time  that  I gave  orders  for  this  halt,  I know  not  why,  but 
the  whole  caravan  seemed  to  be  convinced  that  I was  not  long 
for  this  world.  Abdullah  worried  me  a good  deal  with  his 
lamentations  on  my  premature  end  in  the  wilderness,  recom- 
mending all  manner  of  unattainable  or  improper  remedies,  and 
talking  all  sorts  of  absurd  wisdom,  at  the  same  time  that  his  eyes 
were  really  full  of  tears.  The  poor  sirdar  said  nothing,  but 
showed  a most  pitiful  face  every  ten  or  twelve  minutes  through 
the  tent  door.  The  “ goomashta,”  or  master  of  the  camels,  the 
old  soubahdar,  the  Aumeen,  and  many  others,  came  to  offer  up 
their  good  wishes  and  prayers  for  my  recovery ; and,  perhaps,  the 
best  and  most  useful  proof  of  their  good  will  was,  that  I heard  no 
needless  noise  in  the  camp  the  whole  day;  and,  if  a voice  were 
raised,  “chup  ! chup  !”  “ silence  ! silence  !”  followed  immediately. 
Abdullah  offered  to  push  on  with  the  camels  to  procure  assist- 
ance ; and  I promised  him  that,  if  1 were  not  better  next  morning, 


344 


FERTILITY  OF  OUDE. 


I would  send  him  or  some  other  messenger.  But  through  the 
mercy  of  God,  the  remedies  I took,  almost  in  utter  ignorance, 
proved  successful,  and  I found  myself  so  much  better  on  the 
morning  of  Saturday,  November  the  6th,  as  to  be  enabled  to 
perform  my  day’s  journey  with  ease  in  the  palanquin;  and  I 
received  the  felicitations  of  all  the  elders  of  the  camp  on  my 
recovery. 

I believe  my  complaint  to  have  been  the  Calcutta  and  Luck- 
now influenza,  a little  aggravated,  perhaps,  by  my  journey  in  the 
sun  after  tiffin  on  Monday  afternoon.  I did  not  feel,  however, 
the  same  excessive  and  distressing  languor  as  is  said  to  have 
haunted  convalescents  in  that  disorder,  or  more  indeed  of  weak- 
ness than  might  fairly  be  accounted  for  by  the  discipline  which  I 
had  undergone. 

Our  stage  to-day  of  seven  coss,  through  the  same  level  and 
fruitful  style  of  country,  was  to  Belgaram,  a place  remarkable  as 
being  the  station  first  fixed  on  for  the  British  “ advanced  force,” 
as  it  then  was,  which  was  afterwards  fixed  at  Cawnpoor.  There 
are  still  several  traces  of  what  the  King’s  suwarrs  said  were  bells 
of  arms,  and  officers’  bungalows,  which  certainly  might  be  such, 
but  were  now  heaps  of  ruins. 

The  town  of  Belgaram  itself  is  small,  with  marks  of  having 
been  much  more  considerable,  but  still  containing  some  large 
and  good,  though  old  Mussulman  houses,  the  habitations  of  the 
tussuldar,  cutwall,  &c.  Here  again,  after  a long  interval,  1 found 
a good  many  scattered  palms,  both  of  the  date  and  toddy  species, 
and  there  is  a noble  show  of  mangoe-trees  in  every  direction. 
I found  myself  well  enough  in  the  evening  to  walk  round  the 
place,  attended  by  the  goomashta,  whom  I found  a very  sensible 
man,  willing  to  give  information,  and  well  acquainted  with  most 
points  which  relate  to  the  agriculture,  rent,  and  taxes  of  this  part 
of  India.  He  said,  what  1 could  easily  believe  from  all  which  I 
saw,  that  the  soil  of  Oude  was  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world ; 
that  every  thing  flourished  here  which  grew  either  in  Bengal  or 
Persia  ; that  they  had  at  once  rice,  sugar,  cotton,  and  palm-trees, 
as  well  as  wheat,  maize,  barley,  beans,  and  oats : that  the  air 
was  good,  the  water  good,  and  the  grass  particularly  nourishing 
to  cattle:  but  he  said,  “the  laws  are  not  good,  the  judges  are 
wicked,  the  Zemindars  are  worse,  the  Aumeens  worst  of  all,  and 
the  Ryuts  are-  robbed  of  every  thing,  and  the  King  will  neither 
see  nor  hear.”  I asked  him  the  rent  per  begah  of  the  land.  He 
said  generally  four  rupees,  but  sometimes  six;  and  sometimes 
the  peasant  had  all  taken  from  him.  I observed  that  it  was 
strange  that,  under  such  usage,  they  continued  to  cultivate  the 
land  so  well  as  they  seemed  to  do.  “ What  can  they  do  ?”  he 
answered  ; “ they  must  eat ; and  when  they  have  put  the  seed  in 


MUSSULMAN  SUWARR. 


345 


the  ground,  they  must  wait  till  it  comes  up,  and  then  take  what 
they  can  get  of  it.”  I still,  however,  suspect  exaggeration  in  all 
these  stories. 

We  passed  a neat  garden  of  turnips  and  some  potatoes  looking 
very  promising  ; these  last,  he  said,  were  at  first  exceedingly  dis- 
liked by  the  people,  but  now  were  becoming  great  favourites, 
particularly  with  the  Mussulmans,  who  find  them  very  useful  as 
absorbents  in  their  greasy  messes.  Our  elephants  were  receiving 
their  drink  at  a well,  and  I gave  the  suwarree  some  bread,  which, 
before  my  illness,  1 had  often  been  in  the  habit  of  doing.  “ He 
is  glad  to  see  you  again,”  observed  the  goomashta,  and  I certainly 
was  much  struck  by  the  calm,  clear,  attentive,  intelligent  eye 
which  he  fixed  on  me,  both  while  he  was  eating  and  afterwards, 
while  I was  patting  his  trunk  and  talking  about  him.  His 
mohout  told  me,  that  three  or  four  years  ago  his  trunk  had 
received  a very  serious  wound  from  the  claw  of  a tiger  which 
sprang  on  him,  and  from  which  he  was  rescued  with  great  dif- 
ficulty ; the  trunk  was  nearly  torn  oflf,  but  he  was  recovered  by 
having  a bandage  applied  kept  constantly  wet  with  brandy.  He 
was,  he  said,  a fine  tempered  beast,  but  the  two  others  were 
“ great  rascals.”  One  of  them  had  once  almost  killed  his  keeper. 
I have  got  these  poor  beasts’  allowance  increased,  in  considera- 
tion of  their  long  march ; and  that  they  may  not  be  wronged, 
have  ordered  the  mohout  to  give  them  all  their  gram  in  presence 
of  a sentry.  The  gram  is  made  up  in  cakes,  about  as  large  as 
the  top  of  a hat-box,  and  baked  on  an  earthen  pot.  Each  con- 
tains a seer,  and  sixteen  of  them  are  considered  as  sufficient  for 
one  day’s  food  for  an  elephant  on  a march.  The  suwarree 
elephant  had  only  twelve,  but  I ordered  him  the  full  allowance, 
as  well  as  an  increase  to  the  others.  If  they  knew  this  they 
would  indeed  be  glad  to  see  me. 

As  I was  slowly  returning  to  my  tents,  a handsome  young 
Mussulman  came  up,  and  seeing  an  European  in  plain  clothes, 
with  only  three  unarmed  people,  began  talking  civilly  in  point 
of  language,  but  in  a very  free  and  easy  sort  of  manner ; he  was 
smartly  dressed,  with  a gold-laced  skull-cap,  an  embroidered 
muslin  shirt  and  drawers,  ear-rings,  collar,  and  ring,  which  pro- 
fessed to  be  of  garnets  with  a few  diamonds,  and  a showy  shawl 
wrapped  round  his  body,  but  none  of  his  clothes  clean  or  well 
put  on,  and  had  that  sort  of  jaunty  air  about  him,  which,  as  it 
is  more  unusual,  is  even  more  offensive  in  an  Eastern  than  a 
Western  buck.  He  was  followed  by  seven  or  eight  very  dirty 
ill-dressed  fellows  with  swords,  shields,  and  matchlocks,  and  had 
himself  a sword,  with  a tarnished  silver  hilt,  and  a large  pistol 
which  he  carried  in  his  hand  and  kept  playing  with  while  he  was 
speaking.  He  was  evidently  more  than  half  drunk,  and  had  the 

VoL.  I. — 44 


346 


MUSSULMAN  SUWARR. 


manner  of  a foolish  boy  who  wants  to  play  the  great  man,  but 
is  not  sure  how  he  will  be  received,  and  undecided  whether  he 
is  to  pick  a quarrel  or  no.  He  salamed,  and  asked  me  what  I 
was  about,  and  where  I had  been,  which  1 answered  civilly  but 
shortly;  he  then  inquired  whence  I came  and  where  I was  going. 
I asked  him  why  he  wanted  to  know ; to  w^hich  he  answered, 
that  he  was  a man  of  consequence  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  it 
was  his  business  to  make. inquiries  ; but  added  more  civilly,  that 
seeing  a Sahib,  he  came  to  offer  salutation.  I said  I was  obliged 
to  him,  and  asked  him  his  name,  which  he  told  me,  but  which  I 
forget,  except  that  he  professed  to  be  a Syud,  inquiring  at  the 
same  time  what  my  name  was.  ‘‘  Lord  Padre  Sahib”  did  not 
explain  the  matter  at  all ; he  resumed,  however,  his  inquiries 
about  my  route  next  day,  and  where  I intended  to  halt.  I had 
forgotten  the  name,  and  on  turning  towards  the  goomashta,  he, 
very  eagerly  and  with  an  expressive  look,  said,  “ Sandee,”  which 
I knew  was  not  the  place ; but  as  he  seemed  to  wish  to  see  no 
more  of  the  gentleman,  I did  not  interfere.  He  then  again 
launched  out  into  an  account  of  his  own  influence  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, “East,  West,  North,  and  South,”  and  added,  as  I 
seemed  a good  man,  he  would  come  in  the  morning  with  his 
friends  to  protect  me.  1 thanked  him,  but  said  he  need  not 
trouble  himself,  since,  besides  my  own  servants,  I had  already  fifty 
sepoys,  and  ten  of  the  King’s  suwarrs.  While  1 said  this,  a very 
whimsical  change  took  place  in  his  countenance.  His  head  was 
before  thrown  back  in  a protecting  way,  and  his  eyes  were  half 
shut.  These  he  now  opened  very  wide,  and  raised  his  head  to 
a perpendicular  posture  so  suddenly,  that,  since  1 had,  during 
the  conversation,  drawn  up  pretty  closely  to  him,  in  order  to 
prevent,  if  necessary,  any  further  evolutions  with  his  pistol,  our 
noses  and  breasts  were  almost  brought  into  contact.  He  hastily 
drew  back,  called  me  “ Huzoor,”  instead  of  “Ap,”  and  again 
renewed  his  offer,  not  of  protection,  but  of  service.  1 cut  the 
matter  short,  however,  by  taking  a civil  leave  of  this  young  de- 
scendant of  Fatima  and  the  Imams.  When  he  was  gone,  I asked 
the  goomashta  if  he  knew  any  thing  of  him.  He  shook  his  head, 
saying  that  there  were  many  such  hurramzadus  about  the  country, 
who  were  too  proud  to  enter  into  the  Company’s  army,  and  who 
could  not  find  employ  in  the  little  army  of  the  King,  and  were, 
consequently,  idle,  drunken,  and  ready  for  any  mischief.  I asked 
if  he  were  a Zemindar ; he  said  he  did  not  believe  that  he  was 
either  Zemindar  or  Tusseldar,  or  that,  whatever  his  family  might 
be,  he  had  any  other  profession  or  character  than  that  of  suwarr, 
and  a candidate  for  employment  in  some  of  the  mercenary  armies 
of  India.  He  concluded  with  hoping  we  should  see  no  more  of 
him,  which,  indeed,  seemed  most  likely.  I was  a little  tired  with 


SANDEE. 


347 


my  walk,  but  slept  all  the  better  for  it,  and  waked  at  half-past 
three  on  Sunday  the  7th,  with  no  traces  of  sickness.  1 had  or- 
dered the  tents  and  luggage  to  a station  seven  coss  distant,  but 
the  foolish  khansaman,  finding  a want  of  trees  and  water  there, 
instead  of  pushing  on  further,  or  trying  to  the  right  or  left, 
returned  two  coss  to  Sandee,  so  that  the  animals  and  people  had 
a nine  coss  march,  while  our  actual  progress  was  only  five ! I 
was  very  angry  when  I came  up  and  found  what  had  happened, 
but  it  was  then  too  late  to  be  remedied. 

The  country  through  which  we  passed  to-day  was  extremely 
pretty,  undulating,  with  scattered  groves  of  tall  trees,  and  some 
extensive  lakes  which  still  showed  a good  deal  of  water.  The 
greater  part  of  the  space  between  the  wood  was  in  green  wheat ; 
but  there  were,  round  the  margins  of  the  lakes,  some  small  tracks 
of  brushwood  and  beautiful  silky  jungle-grass,  eight  or  ten  feet 
high,  with  its  long  pendant  beards  glistening  with  hoar  frost,  a 
sight  enough,  in  itself,  to  act  as  a tonic  to  a convalescent  European. 
The  morning  was  very  cold,  however,  to  my  feelings,  and  though  I 
had  a woollen  greatcoat,  pantaloons,  and  worsted  stockings,  1 was 
not  sorry  to  draw  my  cloak  also  about  me.  Sandee  is  a poor  little 
village,  shaded  by  some  fine  trees,  with  a large  jeel  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood swarming  with  wild-fowl.  It  was  described  to  me  as 
a very  dangerous  place  for  travellers  without  my  present  advan- 
tages, and  I was  told  that  from  thence  to  the  Company’s  frontier 
the  country  bore  an  extremely  bad  character,  and  several  robberies 
and  murders  had  taken  place  lately.  For  us  there  could,  I should 
think,  be  no  fear,  but  when  I went  to  take  my  usual  walk  in  the 
evening,  the  jemautdar  of  the  King’s  horsemen  and  one  of  his 
troopers  came  up  with  their  swords  and  pistols,  and  begged  leave 
to  join  me. 

I had  an  opportunity,  on  this  occasion,  of  seeing  the  manner 
in  which  the  ground  is  irrigated  from  wells,  of  which  there  are 
great  numbers.  The  water  is  poured  into  narrow  channels  con- 
ducted all  over  the  field,  round  the  little  squares  into  which  the 
land  is  divided  all  through  India,  and  the  use  of  which  I before 
understood  but  imperfectly.  I now  found  that  these  ledges  are 
adapted  to  receive  and  retain  the  precious  fluid  with  as  little 
waste  as  possible,  each  serving  as  a small  lock,  in  which,  when 
the  water  has  done  its  duty,  a hole  is  made  by  the  hand  and  the 
stream  passed  on  to  the  next.  The  industry  and  neatness  exhi- 
bited in  this  work  were  very  pleasing,  and  I rejoiced  to  see  the 
favourable  appearance  which  the  young  wheat  bore.  The  lake 
was  half  dry  already,  and  would,  they  said,  in  three  months’  time 
be  quite  so  ; as  it  recedes,  it  leaves  a fine  bed  of  grass  and  aquatic 
plants,  on  which  a large  herd  of  cattle  was  now  eagerly  grazing. 
The  Ganges,  I was  told,  was  not  above  four  coss  distant,  and  an 


348 


SUROMUNUGGUR. 


angle  of  the  Company’s  frontier  hardly  so  far.  One  of  the  King’s 
couriers  passed,  dressed  like  a suwarr  and  well  armed,  on  a good 
horse,  and  riding  at  a great  rate  with  a mounted  and  armed 
attendant  behind  him.  There  were,  the  jemautdar  said,  a great 
many  of  these  people,  who  brought  news  from  different  quarters, 
the  greater  part  of  which  was  afterwards  inserted  in  the  court 
intelligencer.  The  only  regular  post  in  Oude  is  carried  on  by 
the  British  Government,  and  is  under  the  management  of  the 
Resident.  This  was  a lonely  Sunday,  except  that  in  the  evening 
I said  prayers  with  Abdullah.  I hope,  however,  it  was  not  a 
misspent  one.  I hope  and  believe  I was  really  thankful  to  God 
for  his  late  goodness  to  me.  My  travelling  to-day  was  not  to  be 
avoided,  since,  otherwise,  I could  not  have  reached  Bareilly  by 
the  following  Sunday. 

November  8. — Our  march  to-day,  thanks  to  the  blunder  of 
yesterday,  was  ten  coss,  or  twenty  miles,  to  a large  village  with 
an  old  fortress,  named  Suromunuggur.  The  country  improved  in 
beauty,  becoming  more  and  more  woody  and  undulating,  but  was 
neither  so  well  inhabited  nor  so  well  cultivated  as  that  which  we 
had  gone  through  before.  The  King’s  Aumeen  had  urged  my 
people  to  pitch  their  tents  two  coss  short  of  Suromunuggur,  at 
another  village,  but  the  water  was  bad  and  dirty,  and  they  remem- 
bered my  recent  scolding  too  well  to  stop  again  short  of  the 
appointed  place.  In  consequence,  how^ever,  of  their  advance,  a 
messenger  came  from  the  “Foujdar”  (chatellain)  of  Suromu- 
nuggur, asking  why  we  were  not  content  with  the  quarters  at 
first  assigned  us,  adding  that  the  men  of  their  place  neither  w^anted 
to  see  the  King  nor  any  of  his  friends,  that  they  had  no  supplies 
to  spare,  and  were  able  and  determined  to  defend  themselves 
against  us.  At  almost  the  same  time  a similar  message  came 
from  the  first  village,  bidding  us  go  on  in  God’s  name,  for  they 
did  not  want  us  there ; but  if  the  people  of  Suromunuggur  refused 
to  receive  us,  they  would  help  us  with  five  hundred  men.  I was 
asleep  in  my  palanquin,  it  being  early  in  the  morning  when  this 
occurred;  but  Abdullah,  who  was  a little  in  advance,  answered 
the  first  messengers  very  properly,  that  “ His  Lord  did  not  come 
there  to  take  any  part  in  their  quarrels  ; that  it  was  known  to 
all  the  country  that  I was  travelling  peaceably,  and  that  instead 
of  using  the  King’s  authority  to  strip  the  Ryuts,  1 had  paid  for 
every  thing  which  was  brought,  and  had  not  allowed  either  servant 
or  soldier  to  take  a blade  of  corn  without  leave  of  the  owner. 
That  if  their  tradesmen  would  not  furnish  us  with  supplies,  we 
would  buy  them  elsewhere,  and  content  ourselves  with  telling 
the  King  and  the  Resident  the  reception  we  hadmaet  with  ; but 
that  he  (Abdullah)  did  not  dare  propose  to  me  to  go,  in  conse- 
quence of  their  foolish  threats,  to  any  other  place  than  that 


SUROMUNUGGUR, 


349 


which  I had  ordered.”  The  people  seemed  satisfied,  and  ran 
off.  Abdullah,  when  I came  up,  said  that  he  thought  this  would 
be  the  case,  and  that  there  would  be  no  occasion  to  trouble  me 
with  the  matter^  which  was  probably  only  a quarrel  amongst  the 
villagers  themselves.  The  message  from  the  nearest  village 
came  by  one  of  the  King’s  hurkarus,  who  accompanied  me,  and 
in  fact  required  no  answer.  I saw  no  trace  of  the  five  hundred 
men  as  I passed  it,  and  should  be  much  surprised  if  one  hundred 
effective  men  could  have  been  found  in  it.  At  all  events  my 
escort  would  have  chased  them  all.  At  Suromunuggur  I found 
the  tents  peaceably  pitched,  the  sentries  posted,  and  every  thing 
with  the  appearance  of  quiet.  The  Foujdar,  hov/ever,  though  he 
had  sent  some  milk,  and  a fine  kid  for  my  use,  and  a little  fire- 
wood for  the  kitchen,  was  still  jealous  and  uneasy  at  our  neigh- 
bourhood. He  did  not  like  to  admit  us  indiscriminately  into  his 
bazar,  and  promised  that  two  of  my  servants  and  two  of  the  sepoys 
should  come  in,  to  market  for  the  rest.  I returned  answer, 
through  Abdullah,  that  it  was  my  particular  order  that  not  a 
single  soldier  or  servant  of  mine  should  leave  their  places ; that 
we  only  wanted  food,  and  the  usual  necessaries  for  travellers, 
and  that  if  his  tradesmen  would  bring  their  baskets  out  into  the 
field,  they  would  find  us  no  bad  customers.  Four  or  five  people 
of  this  sort  came  out  accordingly,  as  well  as  some  labouring  men, 
who,  for  an  ana  each,  brought  as  much  wood  and  grass  as  were 
sufficient  for  the  party.  The  only  quarrel  which  occurred,  was 
from  the  misconduct  of  one  of  the  elephant-drivers,  always  a 
brutish  and  impudent  set,  who  began  to  help  himself  and  his 
animal  out  of  a field  of  maize.  The  old  man  to  whom  it  be- 
longed, came  to  me  with  a lamentable  outcry,  but  was  satisfied, 
since,  indeed,  no  estimable  harm  had  yet  been  done,  with  my 
making  the  fellow  give  back  the  little  he  had  taken,  and  threaten- 
ing him  with  a flogging.  The  kid  which  had  been  brought  I 
saw  paid  for ; and  as  I did  not  want  it  myself,  gave  it  to  the 
King’s  suwarrs,  whose  conduct  and  countenance  throughout  the 
discussion  had  been  extremely  good  and  soldierly.  In  the 
course  of  the  day  all  jealousies  seemed  to  have  passed ; and 
when  I went  for  my  evening’s  walk,  merely  adding  a couple  of 
spearmen  to  my  yesterday’s  cortege,  I asked  if  they  would  let 
me  go  into  the  village,  and  found  no  objection  made  ; indeed, 
they  said,  the  King’s  Aumeen  and  the  Foujdar  were  already  well 
reconciled. 

The  fortress  is  pretty  much  like  a large  serai,  surrounded  by  a 
high  brick  wall,  with  round  towers  at  the  flanks,  and  two  gothic 
gateways  opposite  to  each  other.  That  by  which  I entered  had 
a tall  iron-studded  door  like  a college,  with  a small  wicket  in  one 
leaf,  which  alone  was  now  open ; within,  on  each  side  of  the 


350  DESERTION  OF  A SEPOY. 

passage,  was  a large  arched  recess,  about  three  feet  from  the 
ground,  where  were  seated  twelve  or  fifteen  men,  armed  as  usual, 
with  one  or  two  guns,  and  matches  lighted,  but  mostly  having 
bows  and  arrows : all  had  swords  and  shields.  They  rose  and 
salamed  very  respectfully  as  I came  in,  and  I passed  on  through  a 
narrow  street  of  mud  houses,  some  looking  like  warehouses,  and 
the  whole  having  more  the  air  of  a place  where  the  peasantry  of 
a small  district  were  accustomed  to  secure  their  stores,  than  the 
usual  residence  of  any  considerable  number  of  people.  Half  way 
along  this  street  I was  met  by  the  Foujdar  himself,  a peasant  like 
the  rest,  and  the  old  Aumeen,  who  came  out  of  a house  together. 
The  latter  had  every  appearance  of  having  been  drinking,  but 
said  “he  had  been  at  his  daily  work,  arranging  with  his  friend 
here,  matters  for  Huzoor’s  comfort  and  progress  next  day !”  After 
salutation  I went  on  to  the  opposite  gate,  which  was  supplied 
with  warders  in  the  same  way  as  the  previous  one,  and  then 
entered  a little  straggling  bazar,  which,  with  some  scattered  huts, 
completed  the  hamlet.  I saw  no  mosque,  but  a small  pagoda, 
and  the  warders  were,  apparently,  not  Mussulmans,  but  Hindoos, 
which  1 had  previously  found  was  also  the  case  with  my  old 
Aumeen.  Thus  ended  a day  which  had  a commencement  appa- 
rently so  formidable,  but  of  which  I cannot  help  entertaining  some 
doubt  that  the  difficulty  was,  in  the  first  instance,  considerably 
exaggerated  by  Abdullah  and  the  other  servants,  partly  to  increase 
the  apparent  dignity  and  prudence  of  the  answer  returned,  partly 
from  the  love  of  the  marvellous  which  the  vulgar  in  all  countries 
cherish.  I was  not  sorry,  however,  to  have  witnessed  this  little 
specimen  of  the  warlike  habits  of  Oude.  The  jemautdar  told 
me  during  my  walk,  that  these  people  and  those  of  the  other 
village  had  long  been  on  bad  terms,  and  that  many  men  had  been 
killed  on  each  side.  This  will  perhaps  account  both  for  the 
anger  of  the  one  party  in  the  morning,  when  they  thought  that 
we  were  leaving  their  enemies  to  sponge,  on  them,  as  also  for  the 
benevolent  offer  of  the  other  to  lend  us  their  best  aid  in  injuring 
their  neighbours.  But,  altogether,  it  was  not  unpleasant  to  find 
myself  at  the  head  of  so  respectable  a force  as  to  make  it 
extremely  improbable  that  any  of  these  hot-bloods  would  court  a 
quarrel. 

Some  little  adventures  had  occurred  during  this  journey,  in 
the  detail  of  my  escort,  which  I forgot  to  mention  in  their  places. 
A sepoy  had  deserted  with  his  musket  and  clothes,  which  I 
chiefly  notice,  because  it  was  regarded  as  utterly  hopeless  and  idle 
to  pursue,  or  even  to  describe  him  in  my  report  of  the  circum- 
stance to  the  officer  of  the  next  station,  and  still  more,  because 
his  desertion  was  spoken  of  by  all  in  the  camp  with  surprise,  and 
as  if  it  were  the  voluntary  abandonment  of  a comfortable  situation. 


OUDUNPOOR. 


351 


Two  other  sepoys  had  been  ill  for  several  days  in  much  the  same 
way  with  myself;  I had  treated  them  in  a similar  manner,  and 
they  were  now  doing  well;  but  being  brahmins  of  high  caste,  I had 
much  difficulty  in  conquering  their  scruples  and  doubts  about  the 
physic  wffiich  I gave  them.  They  both  said  that  they  would 
rather  die  than  taste  wine.  They  scrupled  at  my  using  a spoon 
to  measure  their  castor  oil,  and  insisted  that  the  water  in  which 
their  medicines  were  mixed,  should  be  poured  by  themselves 
only.  They  were  very  grateful,  however,  particularly  for  the  care 
I took  of  them  when  1 was  myself  ill,  and  said  repeatedly  that 
the  sight  of  me  in  good  health  would  be  better  to  them  than  all 
medicines.  They  seemed  now  free  from  disease,  but  recovered 
their  strength  more  slowdy  than  I did ; and  I was  glad  to  find  that 
the  soubahdar  said  he  was  authorized,  under  such  circumstances, 
to  engage  a hackery  at  the  Company’s  expense,  to  carry  them 
till  they  were  fit  to  march.  He  mentioned  this  in  consequence 
of  my  offering  them  a lift  on  a camel,  which  they  were  afraid  of 
trying. 

Another  sepoy,  a very  fine  young  fellow,  called  on  me  this 
evening  to  beg  permission  to  go  to  see  a brother  who  was  with 
some  companies  cantoned  at  a little  frontier  post,  eight  coss  to 
our  left  hand,  the  name  of  which  I forget.  He  said  that  as  he 
was  to  go  into  Rajapootana,  he  did  not  know  when  he  should 
meet  him  again ; and  added  that  he  eould  easily  travel  the  eight 
coss  that  night,  and  would  rejoin  me  at  Shahjehanpoor.  I told 
him  not  to  hurry  himself  to  do  so,  but  to  take  the  straight  northern 
road  to  Bareilly,  by  which  means  he  might  fall  in  with  me  before 
I reached  that  city,  and  that  I would  give  him  a pass  for  four  days. 
He  was  much  delighted ; and  I mention  the  circumstance  chiefly 
to  show  the  falsehood  of  the  common  notion,  that  these  poor 
people  will  take  no  trouble  for  the  sake  of  their  kindred. 

A pretty  trout  stream,  named  like  the  large  river  at  Lucknow, 
the  Goomty,  winds  under  the  walls  of  Suromunuggur,  through  a 
beautiful  carpet  of  green  wheat,  interspersed  with  noble  trees.  It 
is  strange,  indeed,  how  much  God  has  done  to  bless  this  land,  and 
how  perversely  man  has  seemed  bent  to  render  His  bounties 
unavailing ! 

From  Suromunuggur  we  proceeded,  on  the  9th,  to  Oudunpoor, 
five  coss  and  a half.  We  passed  in  our  way  through  Shahabad, 
a considerable  town,  or  almost  city,  with  the  remains  of  fortifica- 
tions, and  many  large  houses.  Oudunpoor  is  what  would  be 
called  a moderate-sized  market  town  in  England.  It  has  a fine 
“ tope”  (or  grove)  of  mangoe  trees  adjoining,  where  the  tents 
were  pitched,  covering  six  or  eight  acres,  with  a little  shrine  of 
Siva  in  the  middle,  and  an  open  shed  near  it.  The  country  is 
chiefly  cultivated  with  cotton.  This  place  also,  some  years  ago. 


S5^ 


OUDUNPOOR. 


bore  a very  bad  character,  and  is  still  dangerous  for  persons 
without  a guard.  On  a frontier,  it  may  be  well  supposed,  idle 
and  mischievous  people,  the  refuse  of  both  countries,  are  likely 
to  establish  themselves ; but  by  what  I learned,  both  here  and  at 
Shahjehanpoor,  there  is  little  to  choose  in  this  respect  between 
the  two  sides  of  the  boundary  line. 

An  old  man,  109  years  of  age,  was  brought  to  my  tent  to  beg 
to-day.  He  had  his  bodily  organs  perfect,  but  was  apparently 
childish.  He  was  evidently  regarded  with  great  veneration,  both 
by  the  country  people  and  my  own  servants,  who  said,  “ He  must 
have  been  a good  man  to  be  allowed  to  live  so  long.”  In  India, 
indeed,  where  the  average  duration  of  human  life  runs  so  low, 
such  instances  are  naturally  reckoned  more  wonderful  than  in  the 
north  of  Europe.  I know  not  how  the  idle  stories  arose,  which 
are  found  in  the  ancient  Greek  writers,  of  Indian  longevity.  I 
remember  Malte  Brim  supposes  they  must  have  been  taken  from 
the  upper  provinces ; but  here,  in  one  of  the  finest  and  healthiest 
climates  of  the  whole  east,  the  age  of  man  very  seldom  exceeds 
seventy.  This  old  man  had  no  means  of  support  but  begging, 
and  his  character  of  a religious  person  ; he  was,  however,  very 
cleanly  and  neatly  dressed,  with  a large  chaplet  of  beads,  and  was 
attended,  to  all  appearance  very  carefully,  by  a man  who  called 
himself  his  disciple. 

Some  men  came  with  two  young  bears,  exactly  like  those  at 
Barrackpoor,  and  very  tame.  They  wanted  to  make  them  fight 
before  me,  which  I declined,  but  gave  the  men  a trifle,  and  the 
bears  my  remaining  stock  of  stale  bread,  for  which  I had  no  more 
human  use.  I asked  where  they  were  caught,  and  they  told  me 
in  the  mountains  of  Bundlecund. 

In  the  evening  I walked  round  the  town,  before  the  principal 
house  of  which,  under  a spreading  tree,  I found  the  old  Aumeen, 
stripped  all  but  his  waistcloth,  cooking  his  supper  in  the  simple 
manner  of  a Hindoo.  He  followed  me  shortly  after,  and  begged 
to  introduce  the  principal  “ mohajun,”  or  merchant,  of  the  place, 
who  wanted  to  see  me.  He  w^as,  as  it  appeared,  a dealer  in  cloth, 
and  in  the  other  multiform  commodities  which  generally  stock  an 
English  country  shop ; a fat  man,  with  a red  turban,  warmly  and 
plainly,  but  neatly  dressed,  and  looking  \\k^  one  well  to  pass  in 
the  world.  He  told  me,  in  Eastern  style,  that  my  fame  had  gone 
through  all  the  country,  and  that  1 was  considered  as  the  only 
great  man  who  had  come  from  foreign  parts  to  Lucknow,  with 
less  disposition  to  take  than  to  give  money.  “ Most  of  them,”  he 
said,  come  to  strip  us  poor  people.”  1 certainly  found  myself, 
this  evening,  rather  the  sheared  than  the  shearer,  inasmuch  as  I 
had  to  take  leave  of  the  King  of  Oude’s  people,  and  give  them 
their  presents ; they  were  all  well  satisfied  with  what  they  received. 


SHAHJEHANPOOR, 


353 


1 had,  again  to-day,  given  up  the  goat,  which  was  brought  for  my 
use,  to  the  suwarrs,  and  I found  that  these  two  successive  dinners 
pleased  them  far  more  than  even  their  fee,  as  being  less  expected. 
Nothing,  however,  seemed  to  give  so  much  satisfaction  to  the 
jemautdar  as  a certificate  under  my  hand,  and  with  my  great  seal, 
of  his  good  conduct.  The  Aumeen  also,  who,  besides  a couple 
of  coarse  shawls,  got  forty  rupees,  was  greatly  delighted  with  a 
similar  paper,  kissing  the  seal,  and  pressing  it  to  his  forehead  with 
high  respect.  I told  them  I wished  them  to  see  me  over  the 
frontier  next  day,  but  they  said  they  hoped  for  my  permission  to 
escort  me  fairly  to  Shahjehanpoor. 

November  10. — From  Oudunpoor  to  Shahjehanpoor  is  seven 
coss,  of  the  same  cultivated  country.  The  frontier  here  is  only 
an  ideal  line.  Soon  after  I had  entered  the  Company’s  territo- 
ries, I was  met  by  ten  suwarrs,  very  gaily  dressed,  but  neither  so 
fine  men,  nor  so  well  mounted,  as  those  of  the  King.  They  had 
been  sent  to  meet  me  by  Mr.  Neave,  the  judge  of  Shahjehan- 
poor. With  them  and  the  King’s  people,  who  would  not  relin- 
quish their  station,  I rode  on  in  high  style,  Cabul,  (the  name  of 
my  horse,)  showing  off  in  his  best  manner,  as  being  much  ani- 
mated by  so  numerous  a company ; though,  as  we  pranced  up 
the  street  of  Shahjehanpoor,  1 could  not  help  thinking,  that  in 
the  midst  of  this  barbarous  cavalcade,  with  musketeers,  spear- 
men, and  elephants  closing  the  procession,  my  friends  at  home 
would  have  had  some  difficulty  in  recognising  me,  or  believing 
me  to  be  a man  of  peace. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  town  I passed  the  river  Gurruk,  a quiet, 
winding  stream,  over  a little  mean  old  bridge,  by  the  side  of  a 
much  more  splendid  one,  begun  some  months  since  at  the  expense 
of  the  ex-minister  of  Oude,  the  Hukeem  Mendee,  who  has  a 
house  and  considerable  property  within  the  British  territories  in 
this  district.  The  bridge  would,  if  completed,  have  been  a very 
good  and  extensive  one,  but  is  now  much  dilapidated,  a great 
part  of  the  unfinished  work  having  fallen  in  during  the  rains. 

Shahjehanpoor  is  a large  place,  with  some  stately  old  mosques, 
and  a castle.  These  are  mostly  ruinous,  but  the  houses  are  in 
good  plight.  The  bazars  show  marks  of  activity  and  opulence, 
and  I could  not  help  observing  that  there  really  is  a greater  ap- 
pearance of  ease,  security,  and  neatness  among  the  middling  and 
lower  classes  of  the  Company’s  subjects,  than  among  those  of  the 
King  of  Oude.  I found  my  tent  pitched  just  beyond  the  town, 
not  far  from  the  gates  of  the  Compound  of  Mr.  Campbell,  the 
collector  of  the  district,  whose  guest  I was  to  be.  I breakfasted 
and  dined  with  him,  and  met  most  of  the  gentlemen  of  the 
station. 

I found  no  professional  duties  to  perform ; but  endeavoured, 

VoL.  I. — 45 


354 


ROHILLAS. 


during  the  day,  to  persuade  these  gentlemen  to  remedy,  in  some 
little  degree,  in  their  secluded  situation,  the  want  of  a chaplain, 
(of  which  they  complain,  but  which  I see  no  chance  of  supplying 
at  present,)  by  meeting  at  some  convenient  place  on  Sundays, 
and  taking  it  by  turns  to  read  a selection,  which  I pointed  out, 
from  the  Church  Prayers,  the  Psalms,  and  Lessons  of  the  day, 
and  a printed  sermon.  1 urged  on  them  the  example  of  Mr. 
Ricketts  at  Lucknow,  and  hope  I produced  some  effect ; at  any 
rate  I am  glad  I made  the  trial,  and  1 think  1 gave  no  offence  by 
doing  so. 

The  conquest  of  Rohilcund  by  the  English,  and  the  death  of 
its  chief  in  battle,  its  consequent  cession  to  the  Nawab  of  Oude, 
and  the  horrible  manner  in  which  Sujah  ud  Dowla  oppressed 
and  misgoverned  it,  form  one  of  the  worst  chapters  of  English 
history  in  India.  We  have  since  made  the  Rohillas  some  amends 
by  taking  them  away  from  Oude,  and  governing  them  ourselves; 
but,  by  all  which  I could  learn  from  the  society  this  day  con- 
cerning the  present  state  of  the  province  of  Bareilly,  the  people 
appear  by  no  means  to  have  forgotten  or  forgiven  their  first  in- 
juries. The  Mussulman  chiefs,  who  are  numerous,  are  very  angry 
at  being  without  emplo}'ment  under  Government,  or  hope  of 
rising  in  the  state  or  army,  and  are  continually  breaking  out  into 
acts  of  insubordination  and  violence,  which  are  little  known  in 
the  other  provinces  of  the  Company’s  empire,  but  are  favoured 
here  by  the  neighbourhood  of  Oude,  and  the  existence  of  a large 
forest  along  the  whole  eastern,  southern,  and  northern  frontiers. 
In  this  forest  a rebel  chief  is  by  many  supposed  to  have  lurked 
the  last  seven  years,  for  whose  apprehension  Government  have 
vainly  offered  no  less  a sum  than  10,000  rupees.  Many  robberies 
are,  certainly,  still  perpetrated  in  his  name ; but  the  opinion  of 
the  magistrates  at  Shahjehanpoor  is,  that  the  man  is  really  dead, 
and  that  his  name  only,  like  that  of  Captain  Rock,  remains  as 
the  rallying  point  of  mutiny.  The  military  officers  of  our  dinner 
party  had  often  been  in  this  forest,  which  they  describe  as  ex- 
tensive, and  in  some  places  very  picturesque,  with  some  few  tracts 
of  high  land,  whence,  even  in  this  neighbourhood,  the  snowy 
range  of  Himalaya  is  visible. 

The  Rohilla  insurgents  are  usually  very  faithful  to  each  other, 
and,  as  in  Oude  there  is  neither  police  nor  pursuit,  it  very  seldom 
happens,  if  they  once  escape,  that  they  can  be  laid  hold  of  after- 
wards. One  of  the  most  notorious  of  them,  who  had  long  eluded 
justice,  came  into  the  hands  of  Government  not  long  since,  under 
very  singular  circumstances.  He  had  passed  over  into  Oude, 
and  bought  a Zemindarry  there,  which  was  last  year  seized  on, 
under  circumstances  of  excessive  injustice,  by  the  servants  of 
the  favourite,  who  at  the  same  tim.e  carried  off  one  of  his  wives. 


EXPLOIT  OF  A ROHILLA. 


355 


The  Zemindar,  equally  high-spirited  and  desperate  with  Hamil- 
ton of  Bothwellhaugh  under  similar  circumstances,  rode  imme- 
diately to  Lucknow,  scaled,  by  the  assistance  of  his  servants,  the 
wall  of  the  minister’s  private  garden,  and  waited  there  well- 
armed,  but  alone,  till  his  enemy  should  make  his  appearance. 
The  minister  did  not  himself  appear,  but  his  two  youngest  sons 
came  out  to  walk  with  their  ayahs.  The  Rohilla  knew  them, 
pounced  on  them  like  a tiger,  and  holding  them  between  his 
knees,  told  the  terrified  women  to  go  and  call  their  master.  The 
palace  was  soon  in  an  uproar,  but  he  sate  still,  with  his  back 
against  the  wall,  the  infants  under  his  knees,  and  a pistol  in  each 
hand,  calling  out  “ draw  near,  and  they  are  both  dead  !”  The 
minister  wept  and  tore  his  flesh,  promising  him  every  thing  if 
he  would  let  them  go ; to  which  he  answered,  “ the  restoration 
of  my  wife,  my  own  safety,  and  the  guarantee  of  the  British 
Resident  for  both  !”  The  woman  was  immediately  brought  out, 
and  the  minister  went  like  one  frantic  to  the  Residency,  begging 
for  God’s  sake  either  Mr.  Ricketts  or  Major  Raper  to  go  with 
him.  . The  latter  went,  and  the  Rohilla,  after  a horrible  pause, 
in  which  he  seemed  still  to  be  weighing  the  sweetness  of  revenge 
against  the  promises  held  out  to  him,  rose,  took  his  wife  by  the 
hand,  and  led  her  away.  He  was  not,  however,  satisfied  with 
the  security  of  his  continuance  in  Oude,  but  soon  after  surren- 
dered himself  to  the  British,  saying,  that  he  knew  he  must  look 
forward  to  a confinement  of  some  time,  but  he  preferred  their 
severities  to  the  tender  mercies  of  the  minister,  who,  in  spite  of 
his  promise,  had,  he  was  convinced,  already  laid  snares  for  him. 
He  is  now  a prisoner  in  the  castle  of  Allahabad,  but  it  is  gene- 
rally believed  that  he  has  made  his  peace,  and  that  his  confine- 
ment will  not  be  a long  one,  though  his  offences  before  were 
serious  enough,  and  though  it  would  be  a strange  reason  for  par- 
doning him,  that  he  had  been  about  to  kill  the  two  children  of 
the  prime  minister  of  an  allied  power. 

The  soil  and  climate  of  Rohilcund  are  very  fine ; the  former 
produces  every  thing  which  is  to  be  found  in  Oude,  and  the  com- 
modities are  reckoned  better,  because,  being  under  a better  system 
of  government  and  lighter  taxes,  the  peasants  bestow  more  pains 
on  them.  Their  sugar,  rice,  and  cotton  are  the  most  high-priced 
in  India,  and  I was  surprised  to  see  not  only  the  toddy  and  date- 
palms,  but  plantains  common,  while  walnuts,  strawberries,  grapes, 
apples,  and  pears  likewise  thrive  here. 

I drove  out  after  dinner,  and  thought  the  country  pretty.  It 
has  the  same  fine  tall  trees  with  Oude,  and  the  cultivation  is  de- 
cidedly neater,  but  the  ground  is  not  so  agreeably  undulating  as 
that  which  1 have  come  over  for  the  last  few  days.  The  hot 
winds  are  not  much  felt  here,  and  on  the  whole  it  seems  one  of 


356 


TILLHIER. 


the  most  favoured  districts  between  Lahore  and  Ava.  1 asked  if 
they  ever  saw  ice  formed  in  the  pools ; but  I do  not  think  they 
could  positively  say  they  had  ; though  hoar  frost  is  no  unusual 
occurrence,  and  ice  is  obtained  without  difficulty  in  shallow 
trenches,  made  for  the  purpose,  and  filled  with  water. 

There  are  five  companies  of  sepoys,  at  Shahjehanpoor,  and 
several  similar  detachments  scattered  up  and  down  the  country. 
They  seem,  indeed,  to  have  their  hands  tolerably  full  of  work, 
and  to  lead  nearly  the  same  lives  which  soldiers  similarly  situated 
do  in  Ireland.  They  have,  however,  not  the  misery  of  enforcing 
revenue  laws,  and  the  greater  number  of  cases  either  arise  from 
civil  suits  respecting  property,  the  decrees  of  which  it  is  not  the 
manner  of  the  Rohillas  to  attend  to  very  scrupulously,  or  from 
an  inveterate  habit  of  “ lifting”  cows  and  sheep,  which  the  beg- 
garly Zemindars  and  idle  long-legged  “ gillies”  of  one  village  are 
always  apt  to  feel  a pride  in  exercising  against  those  of  the  next. 
“ Take  care  of  that  long  tailed  horse  of  yours,”  was  the  first  cau- 
tion which  I received.  “ Keep  him  carefully  at  night  under  the 
sentry’s  eye,  or  you  will  never  carry  him  over  the  ferry  of 
Anopshehr.”  I,  therefore,  gave  an  especial  caution  to  the  people 
about  Cabul.  The  other  horse  having  his  tail  cut,  they  are  not 
so  likely  to  meddle  with. 

November  11. — From  Shahjehanpoor  to  Tillhier,  is  seven  coss, 
through  a level  and  extremely  well  cultivated  country,  inter- 
sected by  the  river  Gurruk,  another  branch  of  which  we  crossed 
by  a ferry.  At  Tillhier  our  encampment  was  in  a noble  grove  of 
tall  trees,  with  a large  tank  of  clear  water  adjoining,  the  whole  so 
like  some  of  Poussin’s  landscapes,  that  one  might  have  supposed 
him  to  have  visited  Rohilcund.  The  tindals,  however,  in  the 
first  instance,  have  stupidly  chosen  to  pitch  my  tent  where  no 
shade  approached,  and  close  by  the  public  track.  As  the  day 
bid  fair  to  be  hot,  I insisted  on  their  doing  their  work  over  again, 
and  thus  gave  them  a lesson,  which,  1 have  reason  to  think,  wij[l 
make  them  in  future  more  attentive.  ^ 

The  people  here  have  a curious  idea,  which  I have  never  seen 
any  sign  of  in  Bengal,  that  the  shade  of  the  tamarind  tree  is  un- 
wholesome to  man  and  beast.  It  is  certain  that  trees  of  this 
description,  though  useful  in  so  many  ways,  are  seldom  planted 
in  those  beautiful  groves  where  cofilas  usually  halt. 

Mr.  Neave  and  Mr.  Campbell  had  the  goodness  to  send  some 
of  their  suwarrs  with  me.  I did  not  see  the  necessity  of  it,  but 
was  told  it  would  secure  me  attention  from  the  village  Thanna- 
dars  and  Tusseldars. 

In  the  evening,  as  usual,  I walked  about  the  town  and  neigh- 
bourhood, but  attracted  a considerably  greater  crowd  than  I ex- 
pected, or  than  was  quite  convenient,  though  the  people  were 


TILLHIER. 


257 


exceedingly  civil,  anxious  to  show  me  one  curiosity  after  another, 
and  neither  asked,  nor,  apparently,  expected  any  fees  for  their 
trouble  as  ciceroni.  I found  a large  party  of  Mussulmans  cele- 
brating the  vigil  of  a saint  who  lies  buried  by  the  further  side  of 
the  tank  I mentioned.  They  had  covered  his  tomb  with  a green 
cloth,  had  planted  a number  of  green  banners  round  it,  and  were 
drumming,  after  a very  dissonant  manner,  to  call  the  faithful  to 
prayers.  The  congregation  already  assembled  were  apparently 
of  the  lower  class  of  trades-people.  Knowing  that  such  solemni- 
ties generally  produce  an  attack  on  the  pockets  of  any  great  man 
who  goes  near  them,  and  being  well  conversant  with  the  Mussul- 
man forms  of  worship,  I should  not  have  approached,  but  1 hap- 
pened to  turn  on  them,  round  a corner,  before  I was  aware.  The 
imam  immediately  ran  forwards,  with  some  fragrants  of  the  sacred 
tomb  in  his  hand,  reciting  the  “bismillah”  as  he  came  along,  and 
pressed  me  to  draw  near.  I was  consequently  obliged  to  put  a 
rupee  down  on  the  fragments,  and  had  the  honour,  in  return,  of 
having  my  name  recited  in  the  prayers  which  followed. 

There  is  a large  but  ruinous  serai  in  the  centre  of  the  town, 
some  very  elegant  fragments  of  the  house,  which,  under  the  late 
Patan  Dynasty,  was  occupied  by  the  jemautdar  of  the  district, 
and  a ruinous  old  fort,  pretty  much  like  that  at  Suromunuggur, 
within  which  the  present  T usseldar  has  built  a small,  but  very 
neat,  and  almost  elegant  bungalow.  Some  noble  old  banyan- 
trees  grow  in  different  parts  of  the  town,  and  my  evening  walk 
was,  on  the  whole,  an  interesting  one. 

A strange  receipt  was  suggested  by  one  of  these  people  for  the 
benefit  of  Cabul’s  health,  whose  beauty  attracts  general  notice, 
as  well  as  his  docility  and  fondness  for  me.  It  was  a boiled 
sheep’s  head  once  in  fourteen  days  ! and  the  object  was  to  make 
him  strong  and  help  his  digestion.  1 asked  Abdullah  if  he  had 
ever  heard  of  such  a “ messala,”  or  mess,  before  ? He  answered, 
it  was  sometimes  recommended,  and  he  had  tried  it  himself  to 
his  sorrow,jsiftce  th^  horse  never  lived  to  have  the  dose  repeated. 

The  same  adviser  wanted  me  to  take  off  a joint  of  Cabul’s  tail, 
under  the  hair,  so  as  not  to  injure  his  appearance.  “ It  was 
known,”  he  said,  “ that  by  how  much  the  tail  was  made  shorter, 
so  much  the  taller  the  horse  grew.”  I said,  1 could  not  believe 
that  God  gave  any  animal  a limb  too  much,  or  one  which  tended 
to  its  disadvantage,  and  that  as  He  had  made  my  horse,  so  he 
should  remain.”  This  speech,  such  as  it  was,  seemed  to  chime 
in  wonderfully  with  the  feelings  of  most  of  my  hearers,  and  one 
old  man  said,  that  “ during  all  the  twenty-two  years  that  the  Eng- 
lish had  held  the  country,  he  had  not  heard  so  grave  and  godly 
a saying  from  any  of  them  before.”  I thought  of  Sancho  Panza 
and  his  wise  apopthegms,  but  1 regretted  that,  without  doing  more 


358 


FUTTEHGUNGE— ROHILLAS. 


harm  than  good,  I could  not,  with  my  present  knowledge  of  Hin- 
doostanee,  tell  them  any  thing  which  was  really  worth  their  hear- 
ing. Yet,  if  my  life  is  spared,  I trust  the  time  may  come  ! — They 
told  me  the  true  name  of  the  village  is  Camaun  ; why  the  Sahibs 
called  it  Tillhier  they  could  not  tell.  I suspect  that  several  mal- 
entendus  of  this  kind  have  occurred  in  Paton’s  routes,  through  the 
hasty  manner  in  which  names  are  sometimes  asked  for  and  set 
down  by  young  officers  on  a journey.  One  of  Mr.  Neave’s 
suwarrs  had  a very  handsome  white  horse,  a native  of  Cutch,  with 
the  hollo  west  back  I ever  saw,  though  yet  quite  young.  He  said, 
and  Abdullah  confirmed  it,  that  all  the  Cutch  horses  have  this 
“ neshan,”  or  mark,  but  it  does  not  increase  with  age.  The 
Cutch  horses  bear  a good  price,  as  being  supposed  to  have  Arab 
blood  in  them. 

I have  several  times  lately  made  inquiries  about  tigers,  but 
both  in  Oude  and  in  Rohilcund  they  are  evidently  rare,  and 
unless  a man  goes  into  the  woods  to  look  after  them,  are  very 
seldom  seen.  Fifteen  or  sixteen  years  ago  they  said  a man  had 
been  killed  by  a tiger  at  Shahjehanpoor ; and  six  or  eight  years 
ago,  for  they  were  not  positive  as  to  the  exact  time,  some  cows 
had  been  carried  off  by  one  in  this  neighbourhood.  The  Sahibs 
from  Shahjehanpoor,  they  added,  had  a hunt  and  killed  the  tiger. 
They  call  this  animal  not  “ bagh,”  or  “ bahr,”  but  “ shehr,” 
which  is,  strictly  speaking,  a lion  ; but  there  are  no  lions  in  this 
part  of  India  ; and  they  explained  to  me  fully,  that  the  “ shehr” 
was,  in  their  acceptation,  the  same  animal  which  was  elsewhere 
called  “ bahr.” 

Kovember  12. — From  Tillhier  to  Futtygunge,  is  a distance  of 
seven  short  coss,  over  a level,  open,  and  comparatively  naked 
country,  with  few  villages,  and  less  signs  of  cultivation,  except 
that  its  very  nakedness  is,  in  these  wooded  countries,  a sign, 
which  I have  not  seen  since  I left  Lucknow.  The  road,  how- 
ever, was  very  good  ; we  passed  a small  river  by  an  excellent 
new  bridge,  and  notwithstanding  all  which  I had  heard  of  the 
warlike  and  predatory  habits  of  the  Rohillas,  the  passengers 
whom  I have  met  these  two  last  days  have  been  much  less  uni- 
versally loaded  with  offensive  and  defensive  weapons  than  in 
Oude,  or  even  in  the  Dooab.  Futtehgunge  is  a poor  village, 
surrounded  by  a ruined  mud  wall,  with  two  handsome  brick  gothic 
gateways.  There  is  a noble  mangoe-tope  adjoining,  covering,  I 
should  think,  from  twenty  to  thirty  acres,  under  which  my  tent 
was  pitched,  and  this  time  in  a very  convenient  situation. 

Here  again  the  increased  neatness  and  apparent  comfort  of  the 
cottages  over  those  of  Oude,  struck  me  forcibly.  Undoubtedly 
a regular  government,  under  which  a man  may  eat  the  fruit  of 
his  labour,  and  display  his  little  comforts  without  fear  of  their 


HAFEZ  REHMUT  KHAN, 


359 


being  ta^ken  from  him,  is  an  inestimable  blessing.  But  it  must  be 
observed  that  I was  not  struck  by  any  material  difference  between 
the  villages  of  Oude  and  those  which  I had  passed  in  my  way 
between  Allahabad  and  Cawnpoor,  so  that  other  causes,  besides 
a difference  of  regime,  may  be  supposed  to  operate  in  favour  of 
the  Rohillas.  They  have,  indeed,  the  character  of  a cleanly  and 
industrious  people  ; and  their  land,  before  its  conquest  and  transfer 
to  Oude,  is  said  to  have  been  a perfect  garden.  From  that  time 
it  grew  worse  and  worse,  till  on  its  cession  to  us  by  Saadut  Ali, 
it  was  a frightful  scene  of  desolation  and  anarchy.  Its  subsequent 
recovery  has  been  rapid,  but  is  not  yet  complete. 

Within  these  two  days  1 have  noticed  some  fields  of  tobacco, 
which  I do  not  think  is  a common  crop  in  the  districts  through 
which  I have  hitherto  marched.  The  Hindoostanee  name  is 
“ tumbuccoo,”  evidently  derived,  as  well  as  the  plant  itself, 
through  the  Europeans,  from  America.  How  strange  it  is  that 
this  worthless  drug  should  have  so  rapidly  become  popular  all 
over  the  world,  and  among  people  who  are  generally  supposed 
to  be  most  disinclined  from  the  adoption  of  foreign  customs ! 

The  Daroga  of  F uttehgunge  called  on  me  in  the  course  of  the 
morning,  a fine  looking  man,  with  a full  black  beard,  and  a com- 
plexion very  little  darker  than  a southern  European.  He  brought 
a present  of  two  large  geese,  and  was  better  dressed  than  most 
public  functionaries  of  a corresponding  rank  in  India,  I asked 
him  to  sit  down,  which  greatly  pleased  him.  He  told  me  that 
Futtehgunge,  which  means  the  Mart  of  Victory,  was  founded  by 
the  Nawab  Suja  ud  Dowla,in  memory  of  the  great  battle  in  which 
the  last  Patan  Chief,  Hafez  Rehmut  Khan,  was  slain,  and  w^hich 
was  fought  between  this  place  and  Cuttrah  in  the  year  1776,  a 
little  to  the  southward.  This  unfortunate  man  was  an  excellent 
sovereign,  and  the  country  under  his  government,  notwithstanding 
the  anarchy  which  had  preceded  it,  was  highly  cultivated.  He  has 
been  described  as  a noble  old  warrior,  with  a long  gray  beard, 
who  led  his  cavalry  on  in  a brilliant  style  against  the  allied  armies. 
When  his  nobles,  at  the  head  of  their  respective  clans,  either 
treacherous  or  timid,  gave  way,  he  remained  almost  alone  on  a 
rising  ground,  in  the  heat  of  the  fire,  conspicuous  by  his  splendid 
dress  and  beautiful  horse,  waving  his  hand,  and  vainly  endeavour- 
ing to  bring  back  his  army  to  another  charge,  till  seeing  that  all 
was  lost,  he  waved  his  hand  once  more,  gave  a shout,  and  galloped 
on  the  English  bayonets.  He  fell,  shot  through  and  through,  and 
the  brutal  Suja  ud  Dowla  applied  for  his  body,  that  it  might  be 
cut  in  pieces,  and  his  gray  head  carried  on  a pike  through  the 
country.  The  English  General,  however,  had  it  wrapped  in 
shawls  and  sent  with  due  honour  to  his  relations.  Still  a sad  stain 
seems  to  rest  on  the  English  name  for  the  part  they  took  in  this 


360 


ROHILLA  NOBLE. 


business,  and  this  with  the  murder  of  Nundemar,  and  the  treat- 
ment which  the  Raja  of  Benares  met  with,  are  the  worst  acts  of 
Mr.  Hastings’s  administration. 

The  noble  mangoe-tope  was  planted  by  the  jemautdar  whom 
Hafez  Rehmut  established  here,  and  is  about  thirty-six  years  old. 
These  trees  begin  to  decay  in  about  sixty  or  seventy  years,  and 
seldom  last  much  more  than  one  hundred. 

The  Daroga  was  followed  by  the  Tusseldar,  a man  of  not 
so  splendid  an  appearance,  but  one  whom  1 saw,  by  the  bustle  my 
servants  made  to  receive  him,  was  a person  of  some  importance. 
I found,  in  fact,  in  the  course  of  such  conversation  as  1 was  able 
to  carry  on  with  him,  that  he  was  of  an  illustrious  family,  which 
in  ancient  times  had  been  sovereigns  of  the  greater  part  of  Rohil- 
cund,  but  had  been  displaced  by  the  family  of  Hafez  Rehmut. 
He  was  also,  in  comparison  with  the  people  of  the  eastern  pro- 
vinces, a fair  man.  His  address  was  good  and  gentlemanly,  but 
he  had  little  to  say  except  what  related  to  the  greatness  of  his 
ancestors,  who  had,  he  said,  reigned  at  Rampoor.  He  told  me 
one  curious  fact,  however,  that  the  wheat  now  cultivated  at 
Rohilcund  was  propagated  from  seed  brought  from  England  since 
the  conquest,  by  Mr.  Hawkins.  The  English  at  Shahjehanpoor 
had  not  mentioned  this  circumstance,  though  they  spoke  highly 
of  the  excellence  of  the  bread  made  in  this  district.  It  answers, 
indeed,  the  beau  ideal  of  Anglo-Indian  bread,  being  excessively 
white,  utterly  tasteless,  and  as  light  as  a powder-puff;  when 
toasted  and  eaten  dry  with  tea  it  is  tolerably  good ; but  I would 
as  soon  bestow  butter  on  an  empty  honey-comb,  which  it  mar- 
vellously resembles  in  dryness,  brittleness,  and  apparent  absence 
of  all  nourishing  qualities.  It  is  lamentable  to  see  fine  wheat  so 
perversely  turned  into  mere  hair-powder.  The  native  bread  is 
nothing  but  baked  dough,  but  I like  it  the  best  Of  the  two.  The 
Tusseldar  brought  as  a present  three  very  fine  lambs,  which, 
my  own  dinner  being  already  provided  for,  I sent  to  the  sepoys 
and  to  the  other  folks  of  the  camp.  I meant  to  have  sent  them 
all  to  the  sepoys,  but  I was  assured  that  two  would  be  sufficient 
for  them,  so  far  does  a very  little  meat  go  with  Hindoos,  and 
when  well  mixed  up  in  currie  ; it  is  to  be  owned,  however,  that 
a considerable  number  of  the  sepoys  were  likely  to  scruple  eating 
meat. 

During  the  last  week  we  have  almost  every  day  fallen  in  with 
large  parties  of  pilgrims,  going  to,  or  returning  from,  the  Ganges, 
as  well  as  considerable  numbers  of  men  bringing  water  from 
Hurdwar.  The  greatest  proportion  of  the  pilgrims  are  women, 
who  sing  in  a very  pleasing,  cheerful  manner,  in  passing  near  a 
village,  or  any  large  assembly  of  people.  Once,  as  they  passed 
my  tents,  their  slender  figui'es,  long  white  garments,  water-pots, 


iNATIVE  DYNASTIES. 


361 


and  minstrelsy,  combined  with  the  noble  laurel-like  shade  of  the 
mangoe-trees,  reminded  me  forcibly  of  the  scene  so  well  repre- 
sented in  Milman’s  Martyr  of  Antioch,  where  the  damsels  are 
going  to  the  wood  in  the  cool  of  the  day,  singing  their  hymns  to 
Apollo.  The  male  pilgrims,  and  those  who  carry  water,  call  out, 
in  a deep  tone,  “ Mahadeo  B61 ! Bol ! Bol !”  in  which  I observed 
my  Hindoo  servants  and  bearers  never  failed  to  join  them. 

My  new  acquaintance,  the  Tusseldar,  called  again  in  the 
evening  to  ask  if  he  could  do  any  thing  more  for  me,  and  to  say 
he  would  see  me  again  at  the  next  station.  1 had  in  the  mean- 
time happened  to  find  his  pedigree  and  family  history  in  Hamilton’s 
Gazetteer,  and  pleased  him  much,  I believe,  by  asking  him  which 
of  the  six  sons  of  Ali  Mohammed  Kkan  he  was  descended  from  ? 
He  said,  “ Nawab  Ali  Khan  and  added  that  his  own  name  was 
Mohammed  Kasin  Ali  Khan.  The  father  and  founder  of  this 
family,  Ali  Mohammed  Khan,  was  a peasant  boy,  saved  from  a 
burning  village,  about  the  year  1720,  by  Daood  Khan',  an  Afghan, 
or  Patan  freebooter,  who  came  into  this  country  about  that  time, 
and  after  a long  course  of  robbery  and  rebellion  at  length  became 
its  sovereign.  He  adopted  the  foundling  to  the  prejudice  of  his 
-own  children,  and,  on  his  decease,  Ali  Mohammed  succeeded  to 
the  throne,  and  held  it  to  his  death.  His  six  sons,  as  usual  in 
such  cases,  quarrelled  and  fought.  Nawab  Ali  Khan,  the  fourth, 
was  for  some  time  the  most  successful ; but  all  were  at  length 
overthrown  by  another  chieftain,  said  to  be  of  better  family, 
Rehmut  Khan.  He,  in  his  turn,  was  killed  in  battle  by  the 
English  and  men  of  Oude ; and  thus  ended  the  sovereignty  of 
Rohilcund.  Of  such  strange  materials  were  those  dynasties 
chiefly  composed,  on  whose  ruins  the  British  empire  has  been 
erected,  and  so  easily  did  “ the  sabre’s  adventurous  law”  make 
and  mar  monarchs  in  the  olden  times  of  Hindostan  ! 

A miserable  little  sickly  man,  wrapped  in  a ragged  blanket, 
asked  charity,  saying  he  was  going  with  his  wife  and  two  children 
the  pilgrimage  to  Mecca ! What  a journey  for  such  a person  ! 
1 advised  him  to  return  home,  and  serve  God  in  his  own  land, 
adding  that  He  was  every  where,  and  might  be  worshipped  in  India 
as  well  as  by  the  side  of  a black  stone  in  Hejaz.  He  smiled  in  a 
melancholy  way,  as  if  he  were  partly  of  the  same  opinion,  but  said 
he  had  a vow.  At  home,  indeed,  he  perhaps,  to  judge  from  his 
appearance,  left  nothing  but  beggary.  I do  not  think  that  this 
pilgrimage  is  very  popular  with  the  Indian  Mussulmans.  This 
is  only  the  fourth  person  whom  I have  met  with  who  appeared 
to  have  made  it,  or  to  be  engaged  in  it ; and  yet  the  title  of  Hajee, 
which  such  persons  assume,  would,  apparently,  point  them  out 
to  notice. 

November  13. — From  Futtehgunge  to  Furreedpoor  is  seven 

VoL.  I. — 46 


362 


JOURNEY  TO  FURREEDPOOR. 


coss,  through  a country  equally  well  cultivated,  and  rather  preU 
tier,  as  being  more  woody,  than  that  which  I saw  yesterday. 
Still,  however,  it  is  as  flat  as  a carpet.  The  road  is  very  good, 
and  here  I will  allow  a gig  might  travel  well,  and  be  a conveni- 
ence, but  it  would  have  made  a poor  figure  in  the  plashy  country 
on  the  other  side  of  Lucknow,  and  have  not  been  very  service- 
able in  any  part  of  the  King  of  Oude’s  territories.  We  encamped 
in  a smaller  grove  of  mangoe-trees  than  the  four  or  five  last  had 
been,  but  the  trees  themselves  were  very  noble.  The  chief  cul- 
tivation round  us  was  cotton.  The  morning  was  positively  cold, 
and  the  whole  scene,  with  the  exercise  of  the  march,  the  pic- 
turesque groups  of  men  and  animals  round  me, — the  bracing  air, 
the  singing  of  birds,  the  light  mist  hanging  on  the  trees,  and  the 
glistening  dew,  had  something  at  once  so  Oriental  and  so  English, 
I have  seldom  found  any  thing  better  adapted  to  raise  a man’s 
animal  spirits,  and  put  him  in  good  temper  with  himself  and  all 
the  world.  How  1 wish  those  1 love  were  with  me  ! How  much 
my  wife  would  enjoy  this  sort  of  life, — its  exercise,  its  cleanliness 
and  purity;  its  constant  occupation,  and  at  the  same  time  its 
comparative  freedom  from  form,  care,  and  vexation  ! At  the  same 
time  a man  who  is  curious  in  his  eating,  had  better  not  come 
here.  Lamb  and  kid,  (and  we  get  no  other  flesh,)  most  people 
would  soon  tire  of.  The  only  fowls  which  are  attainable  are  as 
tough  and  lean  as  can  be  desired ; and  the  milk  and  butter  are 
generally  seasoned  with  the  never-failing  condiments  of  Hindos- 
tan,  smoke  and  soot.  The  milk  would  be  very  good  if  the  people 
would  only  milk  the  cow  into  one  of  our  vessels  instead  of  their 
own ; but  this  they  generally  refuse  to  do,  and  refuse  wflth  much 
greater  pertinacity  than  those  who  live  near  the  river.  These, 
however,  are  matters  to  which  it  is  not  difficult  to  become  recon- 
ciled ; and  all  the  more  serious  points  of  warmth,  shade,  cleanli- 
ness, air,  and  water,  are  at  this  season  no  whore  enjoyed  better 
than  in  the  spacious  and  well-contrived  tents,  the  ample  means 
of  transport,  the  fine  climate,  and  fertile  regions  of  Northern 
Hindostan.  Another  time,  by  God’s  blessing,  T will  not  be  alone 
in  this  Eden  ; yet  I confess  there  are  very  few  people  whom  I 
greatly  wish  to  have  as  associates  in  such  a journey.  It  is  only 
a wife,  or  a friend  so  intimate  as  to  be  quite  another  self,  whom 
one  is  really  anxious  to  be  with  one  while  travelling  through  a 
new  country. 

The  Tusseldar  called  again  this  afternoon,  and  brought  three 
more  lambs  or  goats,  I am  not  sure  which,  for  both  are  called 
“ buckra”  here.  1,  however,  thought  it  too  bad  to  take  the  first- 
lings of  his  flock  in  this  unmerciful  manner,  and  declined  them 
as  civilly  as  I could,  giving  him  at  the  same  time  a certificate  of 
my  satisfaction  with  his  attentions,  with  my  great  seal  appended. 


JOURNEY  TO  BAREILLY. 


363 


— a distinction  of  which  I have  discovered  the  value  in  native 
eyes,  and  mean  only  to  give  it  to  gentlefolks.  He  took  his  leave 
with  a profusion  of  compliments,  having  got  a “ neknamee,”  or 
character,  and  kept  his  mutton. 

The  evening  was  beautiful,  and  I walked  round  the  village; 
which,  however,  had  nothing  in  it  worth  seeing. 

November  14. — From  Furreedpoor  to  Bareilly  is  a distance  of 
eight  short  coss,  not  much  more  than  twelve  miles,  but  to  the 
cantonment,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  which  my  tent  was  pitched, 
it  is  a mile  and  a half  less.  Mr.  Hawkins,  the  senior  judge  of 
circuit,  had  offered  the  use  of  a large  room  in  a house  of  his  in  the 
immediate  neighbourhood  of  my  encampment,  for  divine  service  ; 
and  I had  the  pleasure  of  finding  a numerous  congregation  of  the 
civil  and  military  officers,  with  their  families,  as  well  as  a good 
many  Christians  of  humbler  rank,  chiefly  musicians  attached  to 
the  regiments  stationed  here,  with  their  wives.  I had,  I think, 
sixteen  communicants. 

Bareilly  is  a poor  ruinous  town,  in  a pleasant  and  well-wooded, 
hut  still  a very  flat  country.  I am  told,  that  when  the  weather 
is  clear  (it  is  now  hazy)  the  Himalaya  mountains  are  seen  very 
distinctly,  and  form  a^^oble  termination  to  the  landscape.  IS othing, 
however,  of  the  kind  is  now  to  be  seen,  though  the  distance  is 
barely  sixty  miles.  The  nights  and  mornings  are  become  really 
very  cold,  and  in  my  tent  I find  a blanket,  a quilt,  and  my  large 
cloak,  no  more  than  enough  to  keep  me  comfortable. 

November  15. — I breakfasted  and  dined  to-day  at  General  Van- 
renen’s,  and  met  a very  large  family  party.  They  are  extremely 
hospitable,  kind-mannered,  and  simple-hearted  people,  and  the 
General  has  seen  more  of  different  parts  of  India  than  most  men 
whom  1 have  met.  After  breakfast,  1 had  a number  of  children 
brought  to  be  baptized,  three  couples  to  be  married,  and  one 
young  woman,  a native,  but  engaged  to  be  married  to  an  English 
soldier,  who  was  a candidate  for  baptism.  She  spoke  English  a 
little,  though  imperfectly,  and  to  my  surprise  was  not  much  bet- 
ter acquainted  with  Hindoostanee,  being  a native  of  Madras. 
Her  intended  husband,  however,  a very  respectable  young  man, 
had  evidently  taken  much  pains  to  instruct  her  in  her  new  belief. 
She  repeated  the  substance  of  the  Lord’s  Prayer  and  Creed  very 
well  in  English,  and  afterwards  explained,  in  answer  to  my  ques- 
tions, the  different  clauses  intelligibly  in  Plindoostanee.  In  Te- 
linga,  her  husband  assured  me,  she  was  very  perfect  in  both.  I 
explained  to  her  myself,  as  far  as  our  means  of  communication 
went,  and  got  him  to  explain  to  her  more  fully,  the  obligations 
which  she  was  to  take  on  herself  in  baptism  and  marriage.  For 
the  former  she  seemed  very  anxious,  and  to  judge  from  her 
extreme  seriousness  during  the  ceremony,  and  the  trembling 


364 


ROHILCUND. 


earnestness  with  which,  both  in  English  and  Hindoostanee,  she 
made  the  promises,  I trust  it  was  not  performed  in  vain.  This 
day  I baptized  and  married  her.  Her  name  was  Cudjee,  but  her 
husband  wished  that  she  should  now  be  called  Susan.  These 
ceremonies  all  took  place  at  General  Vanrenen’s  house,  he  hav- 
ing good-naturedly  appointed  the  people  to  meet  me  there,  as 
being  more  roomy  than  my  tent,  and  more  centrically  situated 
with  reference  to  those  who  were  likely  to  attend. 

I heard,  in  the  course  of  conversation,  many  interesting  parti- 
culars respecting  the  province  of  Rohilcund.  Mr.  Hawkins  has 
been  here  many  years,  and  holds,  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  the 
situation  of  civil  governor : he  has  been  in  India  forty-two  years, 
during  which  time  he  has  never  returned  home,  and  is  evidently 
an  extremely  useful  man  in  his  present  situation.  I have  not  for 
a long  time  met  with  any  one  so  interesting ; how  I wish  she  for 
whom  I write  this  may  one  day  see  him  ! The  account  which  he 
gives  of  the  Rohillas  is  not  very  flattering.  They  are  a clever 
and  animated  race  of  people,  but  devoid  of  principle,  false,  and 
ferocious.  Crimes  are  very  numerous,  both  of  fraud  and  violence, 
and  perjury  almost  universal.  When  he  first  came  here,  the 
English  were  excessively  disliked,  and  very  few  would  so  much 
as  salam  to  either  General  or  Magistrate ; at  present  they  are 
brought  into  better  order,  and,  probably,  better  reconciled  to  a 
government,  under  which  their  condition,  so  far  as  tranquillity 
and  the  impartial  administration  of  justice  extend,  has  been 
greatly  improved,  and  their  land,  from  a mere  desert,  to  which 
the  tyranny  of  Oude  had  reduced  it,  restored  to  its  former  state 
of  cultivation  and  richness.  But  the  country  is  burdened  with 
a crowd  of  lazy,  profligate,  self-called  suwarrs,  who,  though  many 
of  them  are  not  worth  a rupee,  conceive  it  derogatory  to  their 
gentility  and  Patan  blood  to  apply  themselves  to  any  honest  indus- 
try, and  obtain  for  the  most  part  a precarious  livelihood  by 
spunging  on  the  industrious  tradesmen  and  farmers,  on  whom  they 
levy  a sort  of  black-mail,”  or  as  hangers-on  to  the  few  noble 
and  wealthy  families  yet  remaining  in  the  province.  Of  these 
men,  who  have  no  visible  means  of  maintenance  at  all,  and  no 
visible  occupation  except  that  of  lounging  up  and  down  with 
their  swords  and  shields  like  the  ancient  Highlanders,  whom  in 
many  respects  they  much  resemble,  the  number  is  rated  at,  per- 
haps, taking  all  Rohilcund  together,  not  fewer  than  100,000  ; all 
these  men  have  every  thing  to  gain  by  a change  of  government, 
and  both  Mr.  Hawkins  and  General  Vanrenen  said  they  hardly 
knew  what  it  was  that  kept  them  down,  considering  the  extremely 
inadequate  force  at  present  in  these  provinces.  Twice,  indeed, 
since  the  English  have  been  in  possession,  their  tenure  of  the 
country  has  appeared  exceedingly  precarious ; and  once  when 


BAREILLY. 


365 


Jeswunt  Row  Holcar  advanced  to  the  fords  of  the  Ganges,  the 
whole  European  population  of  Bareilly  were  compelled  to  take 
refuge  within  the  walls  of  the  jails,  which  they  were  prepared  to 
defend  to  the  last  extremity. 

The  natural  remedy  for  this  state  of  things  would  be  to  find  a 
vent  for  a part  of  this  superabundant  population,  by  raising 
fencible  regiments,  who,  as  they  are  really  faithful  to  those  whose 
salt  they  eat,  would  sufficiently  keep  their  countrymen  in  order, 
and  materially  relieve  the  regular  troops  in  some  of  their  most 
unpleasant  duties.  They  should  be  cavalry,  on  something  like 
the  footing  of  our  yeomanry  corps  ; they  should  be  commanded 
by  the  judges  and  magistrates,  with  the  aid  of  an  adjutant  and 
major  from  the  regular  army  ; and  should  be  officered,  so  far  as 
captains  and  lieutenants,  by  the  most  respectable  of  the  native 
gentry.  Such  a measure  I am  the  more  convinced,  the  more  I 
see  of  upper  India,  would  very  greatly  contribute  to  the  efficiency 
of  the  police,  and  the  popularity  and  permanency  of  the  Com- 
pany’s Government, 

A strong  impression  has  lately  prevailed  in  all  these  provinces, 
arising  I cannot  learn  how,  that  the  English  were  preparing  to 
evacuate  the  country.  The  people,  with  whom  Mr.  Shore  has 
had  to  deal,  have  pleaded  this  to  justify  their  rebellion,  or,  at 
least,  to  account  for  their  temerity. Every  movement  of  troops 
and  officers  towards  the  east  has  been  regarded  as  a part  of  the 
same  system  of  abandonment  and  abdication ; and  it  is  even 
thought  that  my  travelling,  with  a certain  degree  of  official  splen- 
dour, in  an  opposite  direction,  as  it  has  attracted  considerable 
notice  and  curiosity  among  the  inhabitants  of  those  distant  regions, 
has  had  the  effect  of  giving  them  more  favourable  thoughts  of  the 
security  and  permanency  of  the  British  Government. 

November  16. — 1 breakfasted  and  passed  the  day  with  Mr. 
Hawkins  at  what  he  calls  his  country-house, — a large  and  hand- 
some building  very  prettily  situated,  with  a farm  of  four  hundred 
acres  round  it,  little  less  neat  and  English-looking  than  if  it  had 
been  in  Norfolk.  His  trees  are  very  fine,  but  the  whole  view  is 

* The  following  circumstance  is  here  alluded  to  : — A strong  body  of  free- 
booters having  committed  various  devastations  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Saha- 
runpoor,  a detachment  under  the  command  of  Captain  Young  was  sent  against 
them,  which  was  accompanied  by  the  honourable  F.  J.  Shore,  who  held  a civil 
employment  in  that  district,  with  his  suwarrs.  The  banditti  fled  into  the  fort 
of  Koonga,  a place  of  considerable  strength,  which  could  only  be  entered  by 
breaching ; at  the  suggestion  of  Mr.  Shore  a tree  was  formed  into  a battering 
ram,  and  directed  against  the  gate,  he  himself  manning  the  foremost  rope. 
When  the  breach  was  sufficiently  opened.  Captain  Young,  Mr.  Shore,  and 
another  officer  entered,  followed  by  their  men.  The  contest  was  severe  from 
the  superiority  of  the  enemy’s  force,  but  decisive.  Mr.  Shore  was  opposed  to 
several  single  combatants,  and  received  two  sabre  wounds  in  the  breast. — En. 


366 


BAREILLY. 


flat,  though  here  again  1 was  told  I ought  to  see  the  mountains. 
In  our  return  to  Bareilly,  I saw  some  interesting  animals : a fine 
covey  of  wild  peacocks  arose  at  some  little  distance  ; a mungoose 
or  ichneumon  crossed  the  track,  and  at  Mr.  Hawkins’s  door  we 
found  a beautiful  and  rare  animal  of  the  deer  kind,  which  had 
just  been  sent  him  as  a present  from  the  hills.  It  is  now  about 
the  size  of  a large  fallow-deer,  with  upright  horns,  not  palmated, 
but  is  still  young,  and  is  expected  to  grow  so  tall  and  stout  as  to 
bear  a saddle.  It  is  of  a brown  colour,  mixed  with  gray  and 
black,  and  its  hair  very  thick,  and  as  coarse  and  strong  as  hogs’ 
bristles.  Mr.  Hawkins  said  he  thought  it  would  turn  the  edge  of 
a sword.  It  is  a gentle  and  tame  creature,  eating  from  and  licking 
the  hands  of  any  one  who  caresses  it.  It  is  called  goonh,  and  is 
considered  a great  rarity  in  the  plains,  though  among  the  moun- 
tains it  is  not  uncommon,  and  sometimes  used  to  carry  the  children 
of  great  men.  It  seems  to  be  as  yet  unknown  to  European 
naturalists,  at  least  I never  heard  the  name,  nor  saw  any  drawing 
like  it ; were  the  horns  palmated  it  would  most  resemble  the  elk. 

1 had  been  for  some  time  in  much  doubt  as  to  the  expediency, 
after  the  many  delays  which  I had  experienced  in  my  journey,  of 
proceeding  to  Almorah,  but  what  I heard  during  these  few  days  at 
Bareilly  determined  me  in  the  affirmative.  Though  an  important 
station,  it  has  never  been  visited  by  any  clergyman  ; and  I was 
very  anxious  not  only  to  give  a Sunday  to  its  secluded  flock,  but 
to  ascertain  what  facilities  existed  for  obtaining  for  them  the 
occasional  visits,  at  least,  of  a minister  of  religion,  and  for  even- 
tually spreading  the  Gospel  among  these  mountaineers,  and 
beyond  them  into  Thibet  and  Tartary.  The  former  of  these 
objects  I have  good  hopes  of  being  able  to  accomplish ; a resi- 
dence in  these  cold  and  bracing  regions  may,  in  many  cases,  do 
as  much  good  to  chaplains  and  missionaries,  exhausted  by  the 
heat  of  the  plains,  as  a voyage  to  Europe  would  do;  and  good 
men  may  be  well  employed  here,  who  are  unequal  to  exertion  in 
other  parts  of  our  eastern  empire.  To  the  second  there  are  many 
obstacles,  not  likely,  as  yet,  to  be  overcome  ; and  in  encountering 
which  considerable  prudence  and  moderation  will  be  necessary. 
But  there  are  facilities  and  encouragements  also,  which  1 did  not 
expect  to  find  ; and  if  God  spare  me  life  and  opportunities,  I yet 
hope  to  see  Christianity  revived,  through  this  channel,  in  countries 
where,  under  a corrupted  form  indeed,  it  is  said  to  have  once 
flourished  widely  through  the  labours  of  the  Nestorians."^  My 
opinion  as  to  the  advantage  which  might  arise  from  such  a visit, 

* The  Nestorians  are  a sect  of  ancient  Christians,  who  take  their  name 
from  Nestorius,  Bishop  of  Constantinople,  who  lived  in  the  fifth  century,  and 
whose  doctrines  were  spread  with  much  zeal  through  Syria,  Egypt,  Persia,  India, 
Tartary,  and  China. — Ed. 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  JOURNEY  INTO  KEMAOON.  36? 


was  fully  confirmed;  and  I found  reason  to  believe  that  late 
as  the  season  was,  and  much  as  1 have  to  do,  the  present  is 
likely  to  be  the  best,  if  not  the  only  opportunity  for  such  an 
excursion. 

The  whole  skirt  and  margin  of  the  mountains  are  surrounded 
by  a thick  forest  of  nearly  two  days’  journey,  with  a marshy  soil 
and  an  atmosphere,  during  two-thirds  of  the  year,  more  pesti- 
lential than  the  Sunderbunds,  or  the  grotto  Dei  Cani ; a literal 
“ belt  of  death,”  which  even  the  natives  tremble  to  go  near,  and 
which,  during  the  rains  more  particularly,  the  monkeys  themselves 
are  said  to  abandon.  After  the  middle  of  November  this  is  dry, 
practicable,  and  safe  ; so  that  the  very  delays  which  have  thrown 
my  arrival  in  Rohilcund  so  late,  have  given  me  an  opportunity 
which  I may,  under  the  usual  circumstances  of  my  visitation, 
never  have  again,  of  penetrating  into  Kemaoon.  Above  all,  every 
body  tells  me  that,  except  in  a case  of  real  necessity,  a journey 
into  the  Himalaya  should  never  be  undertaken  by  women  and 
children : that  camels,  elephants,  tents,  and  palanquins,  nay, 
even  horses,  such  as  are  usually  ridden  in  the  plains,  must  be  left 
behind  at  Bamoury  Ghat,  and  that  nothing  but  mules,  mountain- 
ponies,  the  “ yak,”  or  Thibet  cow,  and  active  unencumbered 
foot-passengers,  can  make  their  way  along  the  tracks  and  beside 
the  precipices  which  are  to  be  traversed.  This,  if  true,  destroys 
much  of  the  hope  which  has  already  reconciled  me  to  leaving 
many  interesting  spots  unvisited,  that  I might  see  them  at  some 
future  opportunity  with  my  wife  and  children ; and  though  I 
have  little  doubt  that  these  difficulties  are  greatly  exaggerated, 
still  it  is  plain  that  without  a previous  reconnoitring,  I could 
never  take  them  such  a journey,  in  defiance  of  such  assurances. 
For  the  present  excursion.  Captain  Satchwell,  the  acting  com- 
missary-general of  the  district,  promised  me  the  use  of  some 
mules,  which  Government  was  sending  up  to  Kemaoon  for  the 
public  service  there.  Mr.  Boulderson,  the  collector,  offered  me 
the  loan  of  an  able  and  experienced  pony ; and  1 received  a 
letter  from  Mr.  Trail,  the  commissioner  for  the  affairs  of  the 
hill  countries,  offering  me  every  assistance  in  the  last  four  moun- 
tain stages.  Under  these  circumstances,  I made  up  my  mind  not 
to  miss  the  opportunity,  and  arranged  to  send  off  my  tents,  &c. 
on  Wednesday  evening,  being  the  earliest  moment  at  which  my 
necessary  arrangements  could  be  completed. 

November  17. — This  day  was  chieffy  taken  up  in  packing. 
My  plan  was  to  take  my  whole  caravan  to  Bamoury  at  the  first 
rise  of  the  hills,  where  the  air  is  good,  and  supplies  are  plentiful, 
and  leave  them  encamped  there  till  my  return.  Accordingly  I 
sent  off  in  the  evening  the  greater  part  of  my  escort,  servants, 
and  animals,  retaining  only  ten  sepoys,  some  bearers,  my  horse, 
and  the  suwarree  elephant,  with  his  mohout  and  coolie. 


368 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

BAREILLY  TO  ALMORAH. 

FIRST  DISTANT  VIEW  OP  THE  HIMALAYA  MOUNTAINS SHEESGUR VISIT 

FROM  RAJA  AND  SONS ACCOUNT  OF  TERRAI “ESSENCE  OF  OWL” 

WRETCHEDNESS  OF  INHABITANTS KULLEANPOOR—TIGER  HUNT 

RIIDERPOOR CASE  OF  MALARIA  FEVER BURNING  THE  JUNGLE 

TANDAH BAMOURY BEEMTHAL WATER-MILL KHASYA  NATION 

RAMGHUR SIKH^ — MOUNT  MERU PILGRIM  TO  BHADRINATH. 

November  18. — 1 went  this  morning  from  Mr.  Hawkins’s 
house  to  a village  named  Shahee,  about  sixteen  miles  over  a 
country  like  all  which  I had  yet  seen  in  Rohilcund,  level,  well 
cultivated,  and  studded  with  groves,  but  offering  nothing  either 
curious  or  interesting,  except  the  industry  with  which  all  the 
rivers  and  brooks  were  dammed  up  for  the  purpose  of  irrigation, 
and  conducted  through  the  numberless  little  channels  and  squares 
of  land  which  form  one  of  the  most  striking  peculiarities  of  In- 
dian agriculture.  The  country  is  almost  entirely  planted  with 
wheat,  with  a few  fields  of  Indian  corn,  and  the  pulse  called  dal. 
I looked  out  vainly  all  the  morning  for  the  mountains,  which,  at 
the  distance  of  fifty  miles,  for  the  nearest  range  is  no  further, 
ought  certainly  now  to  be  within  sight.  All  I saw,  however, 
was  a heavy  line  of  black  clouds,  in  the  direction  in  which  I 
knew  them  to  be ; and  when  this  gradually  melted  before  the 
rising  sun,  it  was  succeeded  by  a gray  autumnal  haze,  through 
which  nothing  was  distinguishable. 

At  Shahee  I found  Mr.  Boulderson,  the  collector  of  the  district, 
encamped  in  the  discharge  of  his  annual  duty  of  surveying  the 
country,  inspecting  and  forwarding  the  work  of  irrigation,  and 
settling  with  the  Zemindars  for  their  taxes.  His  tent,  or  rather 
his  establishment  of  tents,  was  extremely  large  and  handsome. 
That  in  which  he  himself  lived  was  as  spacious  as  those  which 
were  first  sent  me  from  Cawnpoor,  with  glass  doors,  a stove,  and 
a canvass  enclosure  at  one  end,  which,  in  Calcutta,  would  have 
passed  for  a small  compound.  He  had  a similar  enclosure  at 
some  little  distance,  adjoining  his  servants’  tent  for  cooking ; and 
on  the  whole,  my  tent,  a regulation  field  officer’s  and  my  whole 
establishment,  which  I had  till  now  thought  very  considerable 
for  a single  man,  looked  poor  and  paltry  in  comparison.  For 
such  a journey  as  mine,  however,  I certainly  would  not  exchange 
with  him  ; and  the  truth  is,  that  to  persons  in  his  situation,  who 


FOREST-WILD  BEASTS. 


369 


have  no  occasion  to  go  far  from  home,  or  to  make  long  marches, 
these  luxuries  are  less  cumbersome  than  they  would  be  to  me  ; 
while,  on  the  other  hand,  they  pass  so  much  of  their  time  in  the 
fields,  that  a large  and  comfortable  tent  is  to  the  full  as  necessary 
for  them  as  a bungalow.  Mr.  Boulderson  had  good-naturedly 
waited  two  days  at  Shahee  to  give  me  time  to  overtake  him,  and 
now  offered  to  accompany  me  to  the  foot  of  the  hills  at  least,  if 
not  the  first  stage  amongst  them.  In  the  passage  of  the  forest, 
with  which  he  is  well  acquainted,  he  says  he  expects  to  be  of 
service  to  me.  He  strongly  recommends  our  pushing  on  through 
the  forest  in  a single  march.  The  distance,  he  allows,  is  too  great, 
being  26  miles ; but  he  regards  it  as  a less  evil  to  ourselves,  our 
attendants,  and  animals,  than  remaining  a day  and  night  at  Tan- 
dah,  the  intermediate  station,  a spot  which  at  no  season  of  the 
year  can  be  considered  as  quite  safe,  either  from  fever  or  tigers. 
Against  the  former  of  these  dangers  I had  been  furnished  with  a 
set  of  instructions  by  Mr.  Knight,  the  station  surgeon  of  Bareilly. 
Natives,  Mr.  Knight  thinks,  are  more  liable  to  the  complaint,  and 
recover  from  it  with  greater  difficulty,  than  Europeans,  who  are, 
in  the  first  instance,  better  protected  against  the  damp  and  un- 
wholesome air,  and  whose  full  habit  of  living,  and  the  high  tem- 
perature of  their  health,  make  the  work  of  depletion  with  them 
at  once  more  easy  and  more  effectual,  than  with  men  whose 
pulse  is  always  feeble,  and  who  sink  at  once  into  despondency 
on  the  attack  of  a disease  which  they  know  to  be  dangerous. 

As  to  tigers,  though  we  may  possibly  hear  their  roars,  and  see 
traces  of  their  feet,  it  is  not  often  that  they  venture  near  the  fires 
of  an  encampment,  or  the  formidable  multitude  of  men  which 
such  an  encampment  as  mine  presents  to  them.  Still,  if  a tiger 
shows  himself,  it  will,  in  all  probability,  be  at  Tandah ; and 
though  1 should  not  dislike  to  see  the  animal  in  its  natural  state, 
1 am  bound,  for  the  sake  of  my  half-naked  and  careless  followers, 
and  my  numerous  train  of  animals,  still  more  than  my  own,  not 
to  linger  twelve  hours  in  a spot  of  so  bad  reputation.  In  the  day 
time,  at  this  season,  and  by  those  who  merely  pass  along  the  beaten 
track,  neither  fevers  nor  tigers  are  usually  to  be  apprehended.  The 
latter,  indeed,  on  any  approaching  bustle,  keep  themselves,  at 
those  hours,  so  close  in  cover,  that  those  who  seek  them  find  it 
difficult  enough  to  start  them.  Mr.  Boulderson  is  a keen  sports- 
man, and  told  me  several  interesting  facts  respecting  the  wild 
animals  of  this  neighbourhood.  The  lion,  which  was  long  sup- 
posed to  be  unknown  in  India,  is  now  ascertained  to  exist  in 
considerable  numbers  in  the  districts  of  Saharunpoor  and 
Loodianah.  Lions  have  likewise  been  killed  on  this  side  ^he 
Ganges,  in  the  northern  parts  of  Rohilcund,  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Moradabad  and  Ilampoor,  as  large,  it  is  said,  as  the 

VoL.  I.— 


370 


HIMALAYA  MOUNTAINS. 


average  of  those  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.  Both  lions,  where  they  are  found,  and  tigers,  are  very 
troublesome  to  the  people  of  the  villages  near  the  forest,  who, 
having  no  elephants,  have  no  very  effectual  means  of  attacking 
them  with  safety.  The  peasantry  here,  however,  are  not  a peo- 
ple to  allow  themselves  to  be  devoured  without  resistance,  like 
the  Bengalees ; and  it  often  happens  that,  when  a tiger  has  esta- 
blished himself  near  a village,  the  whole  population  turn  out,  with 
their  matchlocks,  swords,  and  shields,  to  attack  him.  Fighting 
on  foot,  and  compelled  to  drive  him  from  his  covert  by  entering 
and  beating  the  jungle,  one  or  two  generally  lose  their  lives,  but 
the  tiger  seldom  escapes ; and  Mr.  Boulderson  has  seen  some 
skins  of  animals  of  this  description,  which  bore  the  strongest 
marks  of  having  been  fought  with,  if  the  expression  may  be  used, 
hand  to  hand ; and  w^ere  in  fact  slashed  all  over  with  cuts  of  the 
“ tulwar,”  or  short  scimitar.  A reward  of  four  rupees  for  every 
tiger’s  head  brought  in,  is  given  by  Government ; and  if  the  vil- 
lagers of  any  district  report  that  a tiger  or  lion  is  in  their  neigh- 
bourhood, there  are  seldom  wanting  sportsmen  among  the  civil  or 
military  officers,  who  hear  the  news  with  pleasure,  and  make 
haste  to  rid  them  of  the  nuisance.  A good  shot,  on  an  elephant, 
seldom  fails,  with  perfect  safety  to  himself,  to  destroy  as  many  of 
these  terrible  animals  as  he  falls  in  with. 

In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Boulderson  took  me  a drive  in  his  buggy. 
This  is  a vehicle  in  which  all  Anglo-Indians  delight,  and  certainly 
its  hood  is  a great  advantage,  by  enabling  them  to  pay  visits,  and 
even  to  travel,  under  a far  hotter  sun  than  would  otherwise  be 
endurable.  The  country,  however,  in  this  neighbourhood,  and 
every  where  except  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  principal 
stations,  is  strangely  unfavourable  for  such  vehicles.  Our  drive 
was  over  ploughed  fields,  and  soon  terminated  by  a small,  but,  to 
us,  impassable,  ravine.  We  had,  however,  a first  view  of  the 
range  of  the  Himalaya,  indistinctly  seen  through  the  haze,  but  not 
so  indistinctly  as  to  conceal  the  general  form  of  the  mountains. 
The  nearer  hills  are  blue,  and  in  outline  and  tints  resemble  pretty 
closely,  at  this  distance,  those  which  close  in  the  vale  of  Clwyd. 
Above  these  rose,  what  might,  in  the  present  unfavourable  atmo- 
sphere, have  been  taken  for  clouds,  had  not  their  seat  been  so  sta- 
tionary and  their  outline  so  harsh  and  pyramidical,  the  patriarchs 
of  the  continent,  perhaps  the  surviving  ruins  of  a former  world, 
white  and  glistening  as  alabaster,  and  even  at  this  distance  of, 
probably,  150  miles,  towering  above  the  nearer  and  secondary 
range,  as  much  as  these  last  (though  said  to  be  7600  feet  high) 
are  above  the  plain  on  which  we  were  standing,  1 felt  intense 
delight  and  awe  in  looking  on  them,  but  tbe  pleasure  lasted  not 
many  minutes,  the  clouds  closed  in  again,  as  on  the  fairy  castle  of 


HIMALAYA  MOUNTAINS.  371 

St.  John,  and  left  us  but  the  former  gray  cold  horizon,  girding  in 
the  green  plain  of  Rohilcund,  and  broken  only  by  scattered  tufts 
of  peepul  and  mangoe-trees. 

November  19. — This  morning  we  went  seven  coss  to  Sheeshghur, 
over  a worse  cultivated  country  than  the  last  day’s  stage,  and  one 
which  had,  evidently,  suffered  much  from  want  of  rain.  The  heavy 
and  happy  fall  which  had  given  plenty  to  Oude  and  the  Dooab 
did  not  extend  here,  and  except  in  a few  places,  where  irrigation 
had  been  used,  the  rice  and  Indian  corn  had  generally  failed,  and 
the  wheat  and  barley  were  looking  very  ill.  Where  there  are 
rivers  or  streams,  irrigation  is  practised  industriously  and  suc- 
cessfully; but  there  are  few  wells,  and  they  do  not  seem,  as  in 
the  Dooab  and  Oude,  to  draw  water  from  them  by  oxen  for 
their  fields.  The  rain  which  falls  is,  in  most  seasons,  said  to  be 
sufficient. 

On  leaving  our  encampment  we  forded  the  river  Bhagool,  and 
afterwards,  once  or  twice,  fell  in,  during  our  march,  with  its 
windings.  At  last,  soon  after  the  sun  rose,  and  just  as  we  had 
reached  a small  rising  ground,  the  mist  rolled  away  and  showed 
us  again  the  Himalaya,  distinct  and  dark,  with  the  glorious  icy 
mountains,  towering  in  a clear  blue  sky,  above  the  nearer  range. 
There  were  four  of  these,  the  names  of  three  of  which  Mr.  Boul- 
derson  knew,  Bhadrinath,  Kedar  Nath,  and  the  peak  above  the 
source  of  the  Ganges,  the  Meru  of  Hindoo  fable.  The  fourth,  to 
the  extreme  right,  he  did  not  know,  and  I could  not  find  it  in 
Arrowsmith’s  map.  Bhadrinath,  he  told  me,  is  reckoned  the 
highest.  From  hence,  however,  it  is  not  the  most  conspicuous 
of  the  four.  That  we  saw  the  snowy  peaks  at  all,  considering 
their  distance,  and  that  mountains  twice  as  high  as  Snowdon  in- 
tervened, is  wonderful.  1 need  hardly  say  that  1 wished  for  my 
wife  to  share  the  sight  with  me.  But  1 thought  of  Tandah  and 
the  Terrai,  and  felt,  on  recollection,  that  I should  have  probably 
been  in  considerable  uneasiness,  if  she  and  the  children  had  been 
to  pass  the  intervening  inhospitable  country. 

Sheeshghur  is  a poor  village,  on  a trifling  elevation  which  is 
conspicuous  in  this  level  country.  It  has  a ruinous  fort  on  its 
summit,  and  altogether,  with  the  great  surrounding  flat  and  the 
blue  hills  behind  it,  put  me  in  mind  of  some  views  of  Rhydlan. 
The  Clwydian  chain,  indeed,  is  not  crowned  by  such  noble  pin- 
nacles as  Bhadrinath  and  Gangotree,  but  I could  not  help  feeling 
now,  and  I felt  it  still  more  when  I began  to  attempt  to  commit 
the  prospect  to  paper,  that  the  awe  and  wonder  which  I experi- 
enced were  of  a very  complex  character,  and  greatly  detached  from 
the  simple  act  of  vision.  The  eye  is,  by  itself,  and  without  some 
objects  to  form  a comparison,  unable  to  judge  of  such  heights  at 
such  g distance.  Carneth  Llewellyn  and  Snowdon,  at  certain 


372 


VISIT  OF  A RAJA. 


times  in  the  year,  make,  really,  as , good  a picture  as  the  moun- 
tains now  before  me;  and  the  reason  that  I am  so  much  more  im- 
pressed with  the  present  view,  is  partly  the  mysterious  idea  of 
awful  and  inaccessible  remoteness  attached  to  the  Indian  Cau- 
casus, the  centre  of  earth, 

“ Its  Altar,  and  its  Cradle,  and  its  Throne 

and  still  more  the  knowledge  derived  from  books,  that  the  objects 
now  before  me  are  really  among  the  greatest  earthly  works  of  the 
Almighty  Creator’s  hands, — the  highest  spots  below  the  moon — 
and  out-topping,  by  many  hundred  feet,  the  summits  of  Cotopasi 
and  Chimborazo. 

I had  two  sets  of  visiters  to-day,  the  first  were  a set  of  Natch- 
women,  accompanied  by  a man,  who  beat  a small  drum,  and  a 
naked  boy,  who  seemed  the  son  of  the  elder  of  the  three  females. 
The  whole  party  were  of  the  “ cunja,”  or  gipsey  caste,  with  all 
its  most  striking  peculiarities.  The  women  would  have  been 
good-looking,  had  not  their  noses  been  distorted,  and  their  ears 
lengthened  by  the  weighty  ornaments  suspended  from*  them. 
Their  arms,  legs,  and  necks  were  loaded  with  rings  and  chains, 
and  their  dress  was  as  tawdrily  fine  as  their  poverty  would  admit 
of.  The  man  and  boy  were,  in  all  respects  but  clothing,  the  same 
description  of  animal  which  might  steal  a hen  or  open  a gate  for  a 
traveller  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Norwood.  I gave  them  a trifle, 
but  declined  seeing  their  performance.  The  second  set  of  visiters 
were  an  old  Raja  and  three  sons  and  a grandson,  who  were  intro- 
duced by  Mr.  Boulderson.  Their  ancestors  had  possessed  a con- 
siderable territory,  but  the  Patan  wars  had  lowered  them  down  to 
simple,  and  far  from  wealthy,  landowners,  whose  main  dependence 
is,  at  present,  on  a pension  of  4,000  s.  rupees  a year,  allowed  them 
by  the  Company.  The  Raja  was  a homely,  cheerful  old  man, 
with  a white  beard  and  unusually  fair  complexion  ; and  excepting 
the  few  swords  and  shields  in  his  train,  neither  he  nor  his  sons 
had  much  which  differed  from  the  English  idea  of  respectable 
yeomen.  Their  visit  was  not  long:  I gave  them,  at  taking  leave, 
lavender-water  by  way  of  pawn  and  attar ; and  the  old  Raja  (on 
account  of  the  supposed  sanctity  of  my  character,  in  which  I 
heartily  wish  I more  accorded  with  their  ideas  of  me)  desired  me 
to  lay  my  hand  on  his  back  and  that  of  his  sons,  and  bless  them. 
His  business  with  Mr.  Boulderson  chiefly  respected  an  embank- 
ment which  he  wished  to  make  on  the  neighbouring  small  river 
Kullee,  in  order  to  throw  the  water  over  many  acres  of  land, 
some  of  which  we  had  crossed,  which  were  now  altogether  de- 
pendant on  rain,  and  sometimes,  as  in  the  present  year,  unpro- 
ductive. The  embankment  had  been  commenced,  but  was 
opposed  by  the  Nawab  of  Rampoor,  a descendant  of  Ali  Mo- 


MALARIA. 


373 


hammed  Khan  already  mentioned,  and  who  still  holds  a very  pro- 
ductive jaghire,  as  large  as  an  English  county,  extending  from  the 
neighbourhood  of  Moradabad  almost  to  the  foot  of  these  moun- 
tains. He  maintained  that  the  proposed  work  would  drown  some 
of  his  villages.  We  went  in  the  afternoon  to  see  the  place ; and 
I endeavoured,  by  the  help  of  a very  rude  extempore  levelling 
instrument,  made  of  the  elephant-ladder,  four  bamboos,  and  a 
weighted  string,  to  ascertain  the  real  course  which  the  water 
would  take,  and  how  high  the  dam  might  be  raised  without  dan- 
ger of  mischief.  My  apparatus,  rude  as  it  was,  was  viewed  with 
much  wonder  and  reverence  by  these  simple  people ; and  as  I 
kept  on  the  safe  side,  I hope  1 did  some  good,  or,  at  least,  no  harm 
by  my  advice  to  them.  The  ryuts  of  the  Nawab,  indeed,  as  well 
as  the  Raja  and  his  sons,  professed  themselves  perfectly  satisfied 
with  the  line  proposed. 

Mr.  Boulderson  said  he  was  sorry  to  learn  from  the  Raja  that 
he  did  not  consider  the  unhealthy  season  of  the  Terrai  as  yet 
quite  over.  He  therefore  proposed  that  we  should  make  a long 
march  of  above  twenty  miles  the  following  day  to  Ruderpoor, 
in  order  to  be  as  short  a time  in  the  dangerous  country  as  possible. 
1 was,  for  several  reasons,  of  a different  opinion.  My  people  and 
sepoys  had  already  had  two  long  marches  through  very  bad  and 
fatiguing  roads.  That  to  Ruderpoor  was  described  as  worse  than 
any  which  we  had  yet  seen.  As  Ruderpoor  is  reckoned  only  a 
shade  less  dangerous  than  Tandah,  to  halt  there  on  the  Sunday 
would  be  impossible,  and  we  should  have  on  that  day  also  a march 
of  twenty-five  miles  through  the  forest  to  Bamoury.  Besides  my 
reluctance  to  subject  the  men  to  so  great  fatigue  on  such  a day, 
I had  always  understood  that  lassitude  was  among  the  most 
powerful  predisposing  causes  to  fever,  and  I could  not  think, 
without  uneasiness,  of  any  of  them  being  tired  out  and  lagging 
behind  in  so  horrible  a country.  The  direct  way  to  Ruderpoor 
lay  through  the  Nawab’s  territory ; and  Manpoor,  the  intervening 
station,  was  by  no  means  a desirable  one,  either  from  its  air  or 
the  mutinous  character  of  its  inhabitants.  A little  to  the  right, 
however,  was  a village  named  Kulleanpoor,  within  the  Company’s 
border,  and  at  least  not  more  unwholesome  than  its  neighbours. 
The  distance  was  eight  or  nine  short  coss,  which  would  do  nobody 
any  harm.  There  would  remain  a stage  of  six  or  seven  miles  to 
Ruderpoor  on  Sunday,  which  might  be  done  without  any  nightly 
travelling,  and  leave  both  men  and  cattle  fresh  next  morning  for 
our  long  march  to  the  mountains.  For  Europeans  there  was  in 
either  place  little  risk ; our  warm  clothing,  warm  tents,  elevated 
bedsteads,  musquito  nets,  (a  known  preservative  against  malaria,) 
and  our  port  wine,  would  probably  be  sufficient  safeguards  ; but 
for  the  poor  fellows  who  sleep  on  the  ground,  and  are  as  careless 


374 


FORESTS. 


of  themselves  as  children,  it  behoved  me  to  take  thought ; and 
Mr.  Boulderson,  for  the  reasons  which  I have  mentioned,  agreed 
with  me  in  the  opinion  that  Kulleanpoor  should  be  our  next  stage. 

I asked  Mr.  Boulderson  if  it  were  true  that  the  monkeys  forsook 
these  woods  during  the  unwholesome  months.  He  answered 
that  not  the  monkeys  only,  but  every  thing  which  had  the  breath 
of  life  instinctively  deserts  them,  from  the  beginning  of  April  to 
October.  The  tigers  go  up  to  the  hills,  the  antelopes  and  wild 
hogs  make  incursions  into  the  cultivated  plain ; and  those  persons, 
such  as  dak-bearers,  or  military  officers,  who  are  obliged  to  tra- 
verse the  forest  in  the  intervening  months,  agree  that  not  so  much 
as  a bird  can  be  seen  or  heard  in  the  frightful  solitude.  Yet 
during  the  time  of  the  heaviest  rains,  while  the  water  falls  in 
torrents,  and  the  cloudy  sky  tends  to  prevent  evaporation  from 
the  ground,  the  forest  may  be  passed  with  tolerable  safety.  It  is 
in  the  extreme  heat,  and  immediately  after  the  rains  have  ceased, 
in  May,  the  latter  end  of  August,  and  the  early  part  of  September, 
that  it  is  most  deadly.  In  October  the  animals  return ; by  the 
latter  end  of  that  month  the  wood-cutters  and  the  cowmen  again 
venture,  though  cautiously.  From  the  middle  of  November  to 
March,  troops  pass  and  repass,  and  with  common  precaution  no 
risk  is  usually  apprehended. 

November  20. — The  way  to  Kulleanpoor  turned  out  exceed- 
ingly bad,  rugged,  and  intersected  by  nullahs  and  ‘‘  gools,”  or 
canals  for  the  purpose  of  irrigation  ; so  that  our  baggage,  though 
sent  off  at  five  in  the  evening  of  the  1 9th,  did  not  arrive  till  five 
the  next  morning,  and  both  camel-drivers  and  sepoys  complained 
a good  deal.  It  turned  out,  however,  that  they  had  been  them- 
selves partly  to  blame,  in  not,  according  to  my  directions,  taking 
a guide,  and  consequently  losing  their  way.  The  country  is  by 
no  means  ill  cultivated  thus  far,  but  as  we  approach  the  forest  it 
gradually  grows  marshy  and  unwholesome,  and  the  whole  horizon, 
at  some  little  distance,  was  wrapped  in  a thick  white  mist  which 
Mr.  Boulderson  called  “ Essence  of  Owl,”  the  native  name  for 
the  malaria  fever.  The  villages  which  we  passed  were  singu- 
larly wretched,  though  there  is  no  want  of  materials  for  building, 
and  the  rate  of  land  is  very  low.  It  seems,  however,  as  if  the 
annual  ague  and  fever  took  away  all  energy  from  the  inhabitants, 
and  prevented  their  adopting  those  simple  means  of  dry  and  well- 
raised  dwellings,  and  sufficient  clothing,  which  would  go  far  to 
secure  their  health  and  life.  They  are  a very  ugly  and  miserable 
race  of  human  beings,  with  large  heads  and  particularly  promi- 
nent ears,  flat  noses,  tumid  bellies,  slender  limbs,  and  sallow 
complexions,  and  have  scarcely  any  garments  but  a blanket  of 
black  wool.  Most  of  them  have  matchlocks,  swords,  and  shields, 
however;  and  Mr.  Boulderson  pointed  out  two  villages  near 


MOUNTAINS, 


375 


which  we  passed,  which  had  last  year  a deadly  feud,  eliding  in  a 
sort  of  pitched  battle,  in  which  nine  men  were  killed  and  several 
wounded.  It  was  necessary  to  despatch  a corps  of  sepoys  to  the 
spot  to  settle  the  quarrel,  by  bringing  a few  of  the  ringleaders  on 
both  sides  to  . justice.  So  expert  are  men,  even  when  most 
wretched,  in  finding  out  ways  and  means  of  mutually  increasing 
their  misery ! 

The  only  satisfaction  to  be  derived  from  a journey  through 
such  a country,  is  to  look  steadily  at  the  mountains  beyond  it, 
which  increase  as  we  advance  in  apparent  magnitude  and  beauty. 
The  snowy  peaks,  indeed,  are  less  and  less  distinguishable ; but 
the  nearer  range  rises  into  a dignity  and  grandeur  which  I by  no 
means  was  prepared  for,  and  is  now  clearly  seen  to  be  itself 
divided  into  several  successive  ridges,  with  all  the  wildest  and 
most  romantic  forms  of  ravine,  forest,  crag,  and  precipice.  They 
are  now  perceptibly  and  obviously,  even  to  the  eye,  the  highest 
mountains  I ever  saw  sufficiently  near  to  judge  of  them.  There 
may  be  some  peaks  of  the  Norwegian  Alps,  such  as  Dovre  and 
Fille  Fiel,  and  there  are,  as  is,  I believe,  ascertained,  some  points 
of  Caucasus  which  considerably  surpass  them,  and  take  a middle 
place  between  them  and  the  Giants  in  their  rear,  but  the  general 
chain  of  Norwegian  hills,  so  far  as  I can  recollect,  does  not  equal 
these  now  before  me ; and  the  white  peaks  of  Caucasus  I saw 
only  from  a great  distance.  N owithstanding  the  height,  however, 
of  this  secondary  chain  of  the  Himalaya,  I could  see  no  snow  on 
it,  but  Mr.  Boulderson  assured  me  that  in  a few  weeks  more  it 
would  be  pretty  plentifully  powdered,  and  the  probability  was 
that  even  now  I should  have  some  showers  of  snow  in  my  passage. 
On  the  northern  side  of  the  hills  he  had  known  snow  lie  till  the 
latter  end  of  May,  when  nothing  could  be  more  strange  and 
sudden  than  the  change  in  the  feelings  of  a traveller  descending 
from  those  regions  to  the  hot  winds  and  fiery  furnace  of  the  plains. 

At  the  foot  of  the  lowest  hills  a long  black  level  line  extends, 
so  black  and  level  that  it  might  seem  to  have  been  drawn  with 
ink  and  a ruler.  This  is  the  forest  from  which  we  are  still  re- 
moved several  coss,  though  the  country  already  begins  to  partake 
of  its  insalubrity.  It  is  remarkable  that  this  insalubrity  is  said  to 
have  greatly  increased  in  the  last  fifteen  years.  Before  that  time 
Ruderpoor,  where  now  the  soldiers  and  servants  of  the  police 
Thanna  die  off  so  fast  that  they  can  scarcely  keep  up  the  esta- 
blishment, was  a large  and  wealthy  place,  inhabited  all  the  year 
through  without  danger  or  disease.  Nay,  Tandah  itself,  ten 
years  back,  was  the  favourite  and  safe  resort  of  sportsmen  from 
Bareilly  and  Moradabad,  who  often  pitched  their  tents  there, 
without  injury,  for  ten  days  together.  The  forest  was,  in  fact, 
under  a gradual  process  of  reclaimer ; the  cowmen  and  woodmen 


376 


MALARIA. 


were  pushing  their  incursions  farther  every  year,  and  the  plain 
where  we  were  now  travelling,  though  always  liable  to  fever  and 
ague,  was  as  populous  and  habitable  as  many  other  parts  of  India 
where  no  complaints  are  heard.  The  unfavourable  change  is 
imputed  by  the  natives  themselves  to  depopulation ; and  they  are 
no  doubt  philosophically  right,  since  there  seems  to  be  a preserva- 
tive in  the  habitation,  cultivation,  nay,  perhaps  in  the  fires,  the 
breath,  and  society  of  men,  which  neutralii^es  malaria,  even  in 
countries  naturally  most  subject  to  it.  The  instance  of  Rome 
and  its  adjacent  territory  is  exactly  a similar  one,  and  I recollect 
being  told  that  in  proportion  to  the  number  of  empty  houses  in  a 
street,  the  malaria  always  raged  in  it.  The  depopulation  of 
these  countries  arose  from  the  invasion  of  Meer  Khan,  in  1 805. 
He  then  laid  waste  all  these  Pergunnahs,  and  the  population, 
once  so  checked,  has  never  recovered  itself.  There  was,  indeed, 
in  former  times,  a cause  which  no  longer  exists,  which  tended 
materially  to  keep  up  the  stock  of  inhabitants  in  the  Terrai,  in- 
asmuch as,  from  the  nature  and  circumstances  of  their  country, 
they  were  free  from  many  of  the  oppressions  to  which  the  other 
peasants  of  Rohilcund  were  liable,  paying  very  light  taxes,  and 
living  almost  as  they  pleased  under  the  patriarchal  government  of 
their  own  Rajas.  Their  taxes  are  still  light  enough,  but  the  hand 
of  the  law  is,  under  the  present  Government,  felt  here  as  in  other 
parts  of  the  province ; and  as  the  inhabitants  of  the  more  whole- 
some district  have  fewer  motives  than  formerly  to  fly  from  .their 
homes  to  these  marshes,  so  the  inhabitants  of  the  marshes  them- 
selves have  less  powerful  reasons  for  clinging  to  their  uncomfort- 
able birth-place,  and  the  tide  of  emigration  is  turned  into  a contrary 
direction. 

Kulleanpoor,  (the  town  of  granaries,)  is  a very  wretched  place, 
but  stands  on  an  apparently  dry  and  open  plain,  with  one  or  two 
clumps  of  fruit  trees,  where,  certainly,  I should  not  have  sus- 
pected any  thing  amiss  in  the  air.  At  this  time  of  the  year  there 
probably  is  nothing  unwholesome  ; and  all  the  year  round,  the 
people  of  the  place  said,  both  its  air  and  water  bore  a better 
character  than  most  of  its  neighbours.  Many  of  them,  however, 
looked  very  sickly,  and  the  Thannadar,  who  came  to  pay  his 
compliments,  was  yellow  as  gold,  with  his  nails  as  blue  as  if  he 
had  been  poisoned,  and  shaking  pitifully  in  the  cold  fit  of  the 
country  fever,  which  had,  he  said,  hung  in  for  some  months  back. 
Here  indeed,  as  in  other  aguish  countries,  the  disease  often  kills 
very  slowly,  and  many  persons  have  a regular  attack  every  May, 
which  leaves  them  wretchedly  weak  in  November,  and  from  the 
effects  of  which  4;hey  have  just  lime  to  recover  before  the  fatal 
month  comes  round  again.  With  others,  however,  it  is  far  less 
ceremonious,  and  assumes,  from  the  beginning,  a typhus  form 


LALL  SINGH. 


377 


which  seldom  leaves  the  patient  many  days  in  suspense.  Mr. 
Boulderson  has  had  it  twice  ; the  second  time  he  was  left  by  it 
in  so  bad  a state  of  health  as  to  make  it  necessary  for  him  to  go 
to  the  Cape.  By  his  account  it  is  precisely  an  intermittent  fever, 
but  of  the  worst  kind,  resembling,  in  most  of  its  symptoms,  that 
of  Walcheren  and  the  Sunderbunds,  and  arising  from  nearly  the 
same  circumstances  of  soil  and  climate  which  may  be  supposed 
to  produce  the  latter. 

The  natives  have  a singular  notion  that  it  is  not  the  air  but 
the  water  of  these  countries  which  produces  “ Owl.”  The  water 
is  certainly  not  clear  or  well-tasted,  either  at  Sheeshgur,  or  Kul- 
leanpoor,  and  Mr.  Boulderson  has  brought  a stock  of  Bareilly 
water  for  our  own  drinking.  I cannot,  however,  see  any  thing 
about  it  which  is  likely  to  do  so  much  mischief,  and  the  notion  is 
an  unfortunate  one,  inasmuch  as  it  leads  them  to  neglect  all  pre- 
cautions against  the  other  and  more  formidable  causes  of  disease. 
I have  tents  sufficient  to  shelter  all  the  people  who  accompany 
me,  and  I had  offered,  at  Sheeshghur,  if  the  sepoys  found  them- 
selves crowded,  to  receive  the  Soubahdar  and  some  of  the  non- 
commissioned officers,  at  night  under  my  own  tent.  Yet  it  was 
with  great  difficulty  that  I could  persuade  either  them  or  the 
camel-drivers  to  forsake  their  favourite  system  of  sleeping  with 
their  heads  wrapped  up,  but  with  the  greater  part  of  their  clothes 
off,  in  the  open  air,  round  their  fires.  They  were  exceedingly 
unwilling  to  pitch  their  tents  at  all,  saying,  it  did  not  signify,  that 
the  fog  did  no  harm,  and  the  water  was  the  cause  of  all  the  mis- 
chief. In  fact,  there  was  good  reason  to  hope,  from  what  we 
learned  in  Kulleanpoor,  that  the  mischief  was  over  for  the  present 
year,  and  that  our  old  Raja  of  yesterday  had  been  indulging  in 
the  very  usual  amusement  of  making  matters  as  bad  as  possible. 

I had  to  day,  again,  a princely  visiter,  in  the  Raja  Gourman 
Singh,  another  of  these  border  chieftains,  whose  father,  ‘‘‘  Lall 
Singh,”  (Red  Lion,)  had  been  sovereign  of  all  Kemaoon,  till  he 
was  driven  by  the  Gorkhas  to  take  shelter  within  the  Company’s 
border.  Government  gave  him  a jaghire  of  eight  villages  in  the 
Terrai,  and  his  son  holds  a Zemindarry  of  twelve  or  thirteen 
more.  On  the  conquest  of  Kemaoon  by  the  British  arms,  they 
had  hoped  to  be  reinstated,  but  the  conquerors  found  it  conve-^ 
nient,  according  to  our  usual  policy  in  the  east,  to  act  as  much  as 
possible  on  the  principle  of  maintaining  things  as  they  found  them. 
And  their  cousin,  the  Raja  whom  the  Gorkhas  had  set  up,  was 
confirmed  in  the  same  dependent  sovereignty  which  he  held  un- 
der them.  Gourman  Singh’s  claim  to  the  throne  is,  however, 
disputed,  and  with  apparent  justice,  by  another  cousin,  the  son  of 
his  father’s  elder  brother,  who  has  a house  near  Ruderpoor.  The 
existence  of  this  person,  then  a child,  was  unknown,  when  the 

VoL.  1. — 48 


378 


LALL  SINGH. 


appointments  and  jaghire  of  old  Lall  Singh  were  continued  to 
his  son,  and  he  remained  in  great  poverty  till  two  or  three  years 
ago,  when  a pension  was  given  him  also.  Indeed,  Gourman’s 
title  of  Singh  is  a proof  that  he  v^as  of  the  second  house,  the 
elder,  or  royal  branch,  having  the  title  of  Chund.  Lall  Singh 
was,  however,  a great  favourite  with  all  the  English  in  these 
parts.  Mr.  Hawkins  and  Mr.  Boulderson  both  spoke  of  him  as 
one  of  the- finest  old  men  whom  they  had  seen,  with  considerable 
talent,  an  uncommon  degree  of  dignity  in  his  air  and  countenance, 
and  one  of  the  most  heavenly  tempers  that  can  be  conceived. 
Though  by  no  means  deficient  in  firmness,  he  was  never  known 
to  utter  an  angry  word,  or  to  punish  any  of  his  dependents  till  a 
day  and  a night  had  intervened  to  give  time  for  reflection.  With 
narrow  means  he  was  splendidly  charitable  to  the  poor ; and,  in 
fact,  as  good  and  holy  a man,  (a  male  Alia  Bhaee,)  as  his  very 
imperfect  religion  would  enable  him  to  become.  He  was  regard- 
ed as  a saint  both  by  Hindoos  and  Mussulmans,  and  a message 
from  him  would  have  brought  together  all  the  population  of  the 
border,  from  the  Ganges  to  the  Lohoo  Ghat,  to  lay  down  their 
lives  in  any  cause  which  he  might  favour.  He  behaved  with 
admirable  fidelity  to  the  English  on  all  occasions,  but  he  was  al- 
most ruined  by  Meer  Khan’s  irruption.  It  was,  however,  partly 
made  up  to  him  by  a pension,  to  himself  and  his  son,  of  10,000 
rupees,  and  the  latter  is  considered  as  wealthy. 

The  young  Raja  had  been  described  to  me  as  a fine  animated 
man,  with  whom  I should  be  much  pleased,  but  1 saw  him  under 
unfavourable  circumstances.  He  had  had  the  same  fever  with 
the  rest  of  the  world,  was  looking  very  yellow,  and,  as  Mr. 
Boulderson  said,  unusually  silent  and  out  of  spirits.  His  man- 
ners and  appearance  were,  however,  gentlemanly,  and  his  show 
of  attendants  far  greater  than  that  of  the  poor  Raja  of  Sheeshghur. 
He  expressed  his  intention  of  meeting  us  again  at  Bamoury,  at  the 
foot  of  his  owm  hills,  and  wanted  Mr.  Boulderson  to  accompany 
him  from  thence  to  a village  which,  though  actually  on  the  verge 
of  the  forest,  he  recommended  as  more  healthy  and  better  adapted 
for  a civil  and  military  station,  than  Ruderpoor.  Ruderpoor  is, 
indeed,  his  property,  and  Mr.  Boulderson  observed,  that  he  was 
evidently  very  anxious  to  remove  the  Thanna  to  some  distance. 
The  young  man  said  that  people  in  this  country  liked  to  live 
without  trouble  or  interference ; that  the  police  were  now  con- 
tinually requiring  their  attendance  either  as  witnesses  or  arbitra- 
tors ; that  they  sometimes  got  subpoenas  as  far  as  to  Bareilly ; that, 
in  short,  when  the  attorney  was  added  to  the  ague,  the  place  be- 
came insupportable,  and  that  unless  his  tenants  were  left  to 
themselves,  they  would  all  desert  their  homes. 

He  mentioned,  in  the  course  of  conversation,  that  there  was  a 


TIGER  HUI^. 


379 


tiger  in  an  adjoining  tope,  which  had  done  a good  deal  of  mis- 
chief, that  he  should  have  gone  after  it  himself  had  he  not  been 
ill,  and  had  he  not  thought  that  it  would  be  a fine  diversion  for 
Mr.  Boulderson  and  me.  I told  him  1 was  no  sportsman,  but  Mr. 
Boulderson’s  eyes  sparkled  at  the  name  of  tiger,  and  he  expressed 
great  anxiety  to  beat  up  his  quarters  in  the  afternoon.  Under 
such  circumstances,  I did  not  like  to  deprive  him  of  his  sport,  as 
he  would  not  leave  me  by  myself,  and  went,  though  with  no  in- 
tention of  being  more  than  a spectator.  Mr.  Boulderson,  how- 
ever, advised  me  to  load  my  pistols  for  the  sake  of  defence,  and 
lent  me  a very  fine  double-barrelled  gun  for  the  same  purpose. 
We  set  out  a little  after  three  on  our  elephants,  with  a servant 
behind  each  howdah  carrying  a large  chatta,  which,  however,  was 
almost  needless.  The  Raja,  in  spite  of  his  fever,  made  his  ap- 
pearance too,  saying  that  he  could  not  bear  to  be  left  behind.  A 
number  of  people,  on  foot  and  horseback,  attended  from  our 
own  camp  and  the  neighbouring  villages,  and  the  same  sort  of 
interest  and  delight  was  evidently  excited  which  might  be  pro- 
duced in  England  by  a great  coursing  party.  The  Raja  was  on 
a little  female  elephant,  hardly  bigger  than  the  Durham  ox,  and 
almost  as  shaggy  as  a poodle.  She  was  a native  of  the  neigh- 
bouring w^ood,  where  they  are  generally,  though  not  always,  of  a 
smaller  size  than  those  of  Bengal  and  Chittagong.  He  sat  in  a 
low  howdah,  with  two  or  three  guns  ranged  beside  him,  ready 
for  action.  Mr.  Boulderson  had  also  a formidable  apparatus  of 
muskets  and  fowling-pieces,  projecting  over  his  mohout’s  head. 
We  rode  about  two  miles  across  a plain  covered  with  long  jungly 
grass,  wdiich  very  much  put  me  in  mind  of  the  country  near  the 
Cuban.  Quails  and  wild  fowl  rose  in  great  numbers,  and  beau- 
tiful antelopes  were  seen  scudding  away  in  all  directions.  With 
them  our  party  had  no  quarrel ; their  flesh  is  good  for  little,  and 
they  are  in  general  favourites  both  with  native  and  English  sports- 
men, who  feel  disinclined  to  meddle  with  a creature  so  graceful 
and  so  harmless. 

At  last  we  came  to  a deeper  and  more  marshy  ground,  which 
lay  a little  before  the  tope  pointed  out  to  us ; and  while  Mr. 
Boulderson  was  doubting  whether  we  should  pass  through  it,  or 
skirt  it,  some  country  people  came  running  to  say  that  the  l^ger 
had  been  tracked  there  that  morning.  We  therefore  went  in, 
keeping  line  as  if  we  had  been  beating  for  a hare,  through  grass 
so  high  that  it  reached  up  to  the  howdah  of  my  elephant  though 
a tall  one,  and  abnost  hid  the  Raja  entirely.  We  had  not  gone 
far  before  a very  large  animal  of  the  deer  kind  sprang  up  just 
before  me,  larger  than  a stag,  of  a dusky  brown  colour,  with 
spreading,  but  not  palmated  horns.  Mr.  Boulderson  said  it  was 
a mohr,”  a species  of  elk ; that  this  was  a young  one,  but  that 


380 


T:y3^ER  HUNT. 

they  sometimes  grew  to  an  immense  size,  so  that  he  had  stood 
upright  between  the  tips  of  their  horns.  He  could  have  shot  it, 
hut  did  not  like  to  fire  at  present,  and  said  it  was,  after  all,  a pity 
to  meddle  with  such  harmless  animals.  The  mohr  accordingly 
ran  off  unmolested,  rising  with  splendid  bounds  up  to  the  very 
top  of  the  high  jungle,  so  that  his  whole  body  and  limbs  were 
seen  from  time  to  time  above  it.  A little  further,  another  rose, 
which  Mr.  Boulderson  said  was  the  female  ; of  her  I had  but  an 
imperfect  view.  The  sight  of  these  curious  animals  had  already, 
however,  well  repaid  my  coming  out ; and  from  the  animation 
and  eagerness  of  every  body  round  me,  the  anxiety  with  which 
my  companions  looked  for  every  waving  of  the  jungle-grass,  and 
the  continued  calling  and  shouting  of  the  horse  and  foot  behind 
us,  it  was  impossible  not  to  catch  the  contagion  of  interest  and 
enterprise. 

At  last  the  elephants  all  drew  up  their  trunks  into  the  air, 
began  to  roar,  and  to  stamp  violently  with  their  fore  feet,  the 
Raja’s  little  elephant  turned  short  round,  and  in  spite  of  all  her 
mohout  could  say  or  do,  took  up  her  post,  to  the  Raja’s  great 
annoyance,  close  in  the  rear  of  Mr.  Boulderson.  The  other 
three  (for  one  of  my  baggage  elephants  had  come  out  too,  the 
mohout,  though  unarmed,  not  caring  to  miss  the  show)  went  on 
slowly  but  boldly,  with  their  trunks  raised,  their  ears  expanded, 
and  their  sagacious  little  eyes  bent  intently  forward.  “We  are 
close  upon  him,”  said  Mr.  Boulderson,  “ fire  where  you  see  the 
long  grass  shake,  if  he  rises  before  you.” — Just  at  that  moment 
my  elephant  stamped  again  violently.  “ There,  there,”  cried  the 
mohout,  “ I saw  his  head  !”  A short  roar,  or  rather  loud  growl, 
followed,  and  I saw  immediately  before  my  elephant’s  head  the 
motion  of  some  large  animal  stealing  away  through  the  grass.  I 
fired  as  directed,  and,  a moment  after,  seeing  the  motion  still 
more  plainly,  fired  the  second  barrel.  Another  short  growl  fol- 
lowed, the  motion  was  immediately  quickened,  and  was  soon  lost 
in  the  more  distant  jungle.  Mr.  Boulderson  said,  “ I should  not 
wonder  if  you  hit  him  that  last  time ; at  any  rate  we  shall  drive 
him  out  of  the  cover,  and  then  I will  take  care  of  him.”  In  fact, 
at  that  moment,  the  crowd  of  horse  and  foot  spectators  at  the 
jungle  side,  began  to  run  off  in  all  directions.  We  went  on  to 
the  place,  but  found  it  was  a false  alarm,  and,  in  fact,  we  had 
seen  all  we  were  to  see  of  him,  and  went  twice  more  through 
the  jungle  in  vain.  A large  extent  of  high  grass  stretched  out  in 
one  direction,  and  this  we  had  now  not  suffigent  day-light  to 
explore.  In  fact,  that  the  animal  so  near  me  was  a tiger  at  all, 
I have  no  evidence  but  its  growl,  Mr.  Boulderson’s  belief,  the 
assertion  of  the  mohout,  and  what  is  perhaps  more  valuable  than 
all  the  rest,  the  alarm  expressed  by  the  elephants.  1 could  not 


TIGER  HUNT. 


381 


help  feeling  some  apprehension  that  my  firing  had  robbed  Mr. 
Boulderson  of  his  shot,  but  he  assured  me  that  1 was  quite  in 
rule;  that  in  such  sport  no  courtesies  could  be  observed,  and 
that  the  animal  in  fact  rose  before  me,  but  that  he  should  him- 
self have  fired  without  scruple  if  he  had  seen  the  rustle  of  the 
grass  in  time.  Thus  ended  my  first,  and  probably  my  last  essay, 
in  the  “field-sports”  of  India,  in  which  I am  much  mistaken, 
notwithstanding  what  Mr.  Boulderson  said,  if  I harmed  any  living 
creature. 

I asked  Mr.  Boulderson,  in  our  return,  whether  tiger  hunting 
was  generally  of  this  kindj  which  I could  not  help  comparing  to 
that  chase  of  bubbles  which  enables  us  in  England  to  pursue  an 
otter.  In  a jungle,  he  answered,  it  must  always  be  pretty  much 
the  same,  inasmuch  as,  except  under  very  peculiar  circumstances, 
or  when  a tiger  felt  himself  severely  wounded,  and  was  roused 
to  revenge  by  despair^  his  aim  was  to  remain  concealed,  and  to 
make  off  as  quietly  as  possible.  It  was  after  he  had  broken  cover, 
or  when  he  found  himself  in  a situation  so  as  to  be  fairly  at  bay, 
that  the  serious  part  of  the  sport  began,  in  which  case  he  attacked 
his  enemies  boldly,  and  always  died  fighting.  He  added,  that 
the  lion,  though  not  so  large  or  swift  an  animal  as  the  tiger,  was 
generally  stronger  and  more  courageous.  Those  which  have  been 
killed  in  India,  instead  of  running  away  when  pursued  through  a 
Jungle,  seldom  seem  to  think  its  cover  necessary  at  all.  When 
they  see  their  enemies  approaching,  they  spring  out  to  meet 
them,  open-mouthed,  in  the  plain,  like  the  boldest  of  all  animals, 
a mastiff  dog.  They  are  thus  generally  shot  with  very  little 
trouble,  but  if  they  are  missed  or  only  slightly  wounded,  they  are 
truly  formidable  enemies.  Though  not  swift,  they  leap  with  vast 
strength  and  violence,  and  their  large  heads,  immense  paws,  and 
the  great  weight  of  their  body  forwards,  often  enable  them  to 
spring  on  the  head  of  the  largest  elephants,  and  fairly  pull  them 
down  to  the  ground,  riders  and  all.*  When  a tiger  springs  on  an 
elephant,  the  latter  is  generally  able  to  shake  him  off  under  his 
feet,  and  then  wo  be  to  him  ! The  elephant  either  kneels  on  him 
and  crushes  him  at  once,  or  gives  him  a kick  which  breaks  half 
his  ribs,  and  sends  him  flying  perhaps  twenty  paces.  The  ele- 
phants, however,  are  often  dreadfully  torn,  and  a large  old  tiger 
sometimes  clings  too  fast  to  be  thus  dealt  with.  In  this  case,  it 
often  happens  that  the  elephant  himself  falls,  from  pain  or  from 
the  hope  of  rolling  on  his  enemy,  and  the  people  on  his  back  are 
in  very  considerable  danger  both  from  friends  and  foes,  for  Mr. 
Boulderson  said  the  scratch  of  a tiger  was  sometimes  venomous, 
as  that  of  a cat  is  said  to  be.  But  this  did  not  often  happen,  and 
in  general  persons  wounded  by  his  teeth  or  claws,  if  not  killed 
outright,  recovered  easily  enough. 


382 


MARCH  TO  RUDERPOOR. 


J^ov ember  21. — -Our  road  to-day  was,  though  intersected  by 
two  or  three  water  courses,  rather  less  rugged  than  the  day  be- 
fore. The  country,  however,  is  dismal  enough,  leaving  every 
where  the  marks  of  having  been  cultivated  at  no  distant  period, 
but  now  almost  all  overgrown  with  a rank  vegetation  of  a dusky, 
poisonous-looking  plant,  something  like  nightshade,  and  tall  jun- 
gle-grass, often  considerably  higher  than  the  head  of  a man  on 
horseback,  through  which  we  pushed  our  way  like  Gulliver  in  the 
Patagonian  corn-field.  At  last  w^e  emerged  on  a somewhat  higher 
and  drier  ground,  where  were  some  of  the  largest  peepul-trees  I 
ever  saw,  but  still  offering  a wild  and  dismal  shade  choked  up 
below  with  the  vile  underw’ood  which  I have  mentioned,  and  a 
narrow  and  boggy  path  winding  through  it.  On  the  other  side 
we  found  ourselves  among  ill-cultivated  rice-fields,  beyond  w^hich 
was  a magnificent  range  of  mangoe-topes,  and  some  tombs  and 
temples  peeping  out  from  among  them.  On  my  expressing  some 
surprise  to  see  these  appearances  of  wealth  and  splendour  at 
Ruderpoor,  Mr.  Boulderson  observed  that  I should  soon  change 
my  opinion. 

We  found,  in  fact,  on  drawing  nearer,  all  the  usual  marks  of  a 
diminished  and  sickly  population,  a pestilential  climate,  and  an 
over-luxuriant  soil.  The  tombs  and  temples  were  all  ruins,  the 
houses  of  the  present  inhabitants  some  two  or  three  score  of 
wretched  huts,  such  as  even  the  gipsies  of  the  open  country 
would  hardly  shelter  in;  the  people  sate  huddled  together  at  their 
doors,  wrapped  in  their  black  blankets,  and  cowering  round  little 
fires,  with  pale  faces  and  emaciated  limbs,  while  the  groves  which 
looked  so  beautiful  at  a distance,  instead  of  offering,  as  mangoe- 
topes  do  in  well-peopled  and  cultivated  spots,  a fine  open  shade 
with  a dry  turf  and  fresh  breeze  beneath  it,  were  all  choked  up 
with  jungle  and  nightshade  like  the  peepul-trees  we  had  lately 
passed  amongst.  Mr.  Boulderson  said  that  every  time  he  had 
been  here  before,  he  had  found  tigers  in  these  topes,  and  that  he 
wmuld  have  now  sent  an  elephant  or  two  through  the  bushes  by 
way  of  precaution,  had  he  not  known,  from  the  testimony  of  the 
Raja  Gourman  Singh,  that  there  was  no  other  in  the  neighbour- 
hood but  that  which  we  had  pursued  the  day  before,  and  which 
was  four  or  five  miles  off. 

With  all  this  Ruderpoor  is  a very  striking,  and,  in  many 
respects,  a beautiful  spot.  The  soil  is  evidently  of  an  exuberant 
richness.  The  grass  far  overtopped  the  miserable  houses  ; the 
few  slovenly  fields  of  wheat  and  “ badgerow,”  a kind  of  maize, 
were  uncommonly  strong,  flourishing,  and  luxuriant.  The  plan- 
tains in  the  gardens  were  the  tallest’ and  broadest  I had  ever  seen, 
and  the  castor  oil  plant,  the  prickly  pear,  and  the  aloe,  formed 
thickets  of  impenetrable  solidity.  A bright  and  rippling  stream. 


RUDERPOOR. 


383 


which  I should  never  have  suspected  of  yielding  unwholesome 
water,  ran  round  the  village ; and  our  tents  were  pitched  on  a 
grassy  lawn,  eaten  down  by  cattle,  and  therefore  not  trouhlesomely 
high,  under  the  shade  of  some  enormous  old  mangoe  trees,  and 
commanding  a very  advantageous  view  of  the  mountains,  of  which, 
however,  the  nearer  ranges  were  now  all  which  were  visible. 
Here  again  we  found  the  village  magistrate  ill  of  fever  and  ague, 
too  ill  indeed  to  come  out  to  meet  us.  The  second  in  authority, 
who  brought  his  apology  and  nuzzur,  said,  however,  that  no  new 
fevers  were  likely  to  be  contracted  now,  the  cold  season  having 
set  in,  and  the  people  having  begun  to  go  out  to  burn  the  jungles. 
After  breakfast  I read  prayers  with  Mr.  Boulderson  and  Abdullah ; 
and  when  the  day  grew  warm,  the  head  man  of  the  village  ven- 
tured out  to  call  on  me,  and  beg  for  some  medicine.  He  was  a 
decent-looking  man,  very  neatly  and  cleanly  dressed,  but  looking  » 
grievously  ill,  and  I felt  very  sorry  that  I had  so  little  skill  to  help 
him.  His  fever  had  been  on  him  some  time,  and  he  had  hot  and 
cold  fits  every  alternate  day,  but  both  increased  at  each  return  in 
violence  and  duration.  I made  him  sit  down,  which  he  was  very 
unwilling  to  do,  though  quite  unfit  to  stand,  and  he  told  me  his 
‘ case  very  clearly  and  intelligently.  His  hot  fit  was  then  on  him, 
his  pulse  high,  and  his  tongue  white,  with  a little  mixture  of 
yellow.  No  saffron  could  be  yellower  than  his  skin.  I would 
have  given  him  an  emetic,  but  was  afraid,  and  judged  beside  that 
his  complaint  had  been  too  long  on  him  to  receive  benefit  from 
it.^  1 therefore  gave  him  some  calomel  pills,  bidding  him  take 
two  as  soon  as  he  got  home,  and  one  or  two  every  day  the  fever 
returned,  giving  him,  for  the  intermitting  days,  a bottle  of  decoc- 
tion of  gentian,  having  scarcely  any  bark  by  me.  Nothing  could 
he  more  grateful  than  he  seemed ; and  I am  sure  that,  if  faith  in 
a remedy  is  likely  to  contribute  to  its  efficacy,  that  requisite  at 
^ least  was  not  wanting  in  him.  Mr.  Boulderson  afterwards  told 
me  that  gentian  was  an  usual  and  valuable  medicine  in  the  malaria 
fever. 

We  walked  about  a little  in  the  afternoon,  and  finished  our  day 
with  evening  prayers. 

November  22. — The  march  between  Ruderpoor  and  Bamoury 
is  not  one  which  can  with  propriety  be  made  by  night,  and  we 
therefore  kept  our  tents  and  people  quiet  till  four  o’clock  in  the 
morning,  when  they  all,  as  I then  supposed,  set  off  in  admirable 
military  order,  with  advanced  and  rear  guard,  and  main  body, 
the  venerable  soubahdar  on  his  little  pony  in  the  centre.  Mr. 
Boulderson  could  not  conveniently  march  so  soon,  and,  on  my 
tent  being  pulled  down,  I went  to  one  of  his,  which  he  meant  to 
leave  at  Ruderpoor  to  await  his  return,  and  read  and  wrote  till 
he  was  ready  for  breakfast  at  half  past  seven;  at  eight  we  ourselves 


384 


ROUTE  TO  BAMOURY. 


started  on  our  elephants,  and  under  the  shade  of  chattahs  which 
protected  us  quite  sufficiently  from  the  sun.  In  fact,  on  an  ele- 
phant’s back  a traveller  is  so  well  raised  above  the  reflected  heat 
of  the  plain,  and  gets  so  much  of  whatever  breeze  is  stirring,  that, 
at  this  time  of  the  year  and  in  these  latitudes,  I should  care  little 
for  the  sun  even  at  the  hottest  time  of  the  day. 

Our  road  lay  along  an  elevated  causeway  across  an  open 
marshy  plain,  with  many  marks  of  former  cultivation,  but  all  now 
neglected  except  as  pasture.  Just  as  we  were  setting  out,  the 
Raja  Gourman  Singh  joined  us  on  his  little  elephant,  with  a small 
train  of  suwarrs  and  peons  armed  with  matchlocks,  and  bringing 
with  him  a brace  of  florikens,  which  he  had  shot  the  previous  day. 
I had  never  seen  the  bird  before  ; it  is  something  larger  than  a 
black-cock,  with  brown  and  black  plumage,  and  evidently  of  the 
bustard  species.  We  thus  went  on  about  five  miles,  when  to  my 
great  vexation,  I found  the  mules,  which  I supposed  were  half 
way  to  Bamoury,  grazing  by  the  road  side,  and  the  muleteers 
sitting  huddled  up  in  their  blankets ; I found  that,  out  of  pure 
laziness,  and  not  liking  to  set  off  so  soon  as  four  o’clock,  these 
people,  who  were  encamped  a little  separate  from  the  rest,  had 
eluded  Abdullah’s  vigilance,  and  had  not  set  off  with  the  cofila ; * 
that  one  of  the  mules  had  broken  his  girth  at  the  spot  where  I 
found  them,  and  that,  on  the  pretence  that  they  were  unable  to 
mend  it,  they  had  thus  stopped  short,  in  about  as  bad  a place  as 
they  could  have  selected.  My  mohout  undertook  to  mend  ijie 
girth,  which  operation  indeed  was  only  that  of  tying  a fresh  knot 
on  a piece  of  rope,  and  I scolded  them  on  as  well  as  I could,  in 
which  the  mohout  joined  me,  asking  them  if  they  meant  to  remain 
all  night  in  the  forest.  They  evidently  heartily  disliked  the 
journey  on  which  they  were  going,  and  one  of  their  original 
number  had  deserted  two  nights  before.  I had,  however,  no 
disposable  attendants  to  leave  to  force  them  on,  and  I did  not 
think  that  they  would  either  venture  to  desert  their  mules  in  the 
forest,  or  remain  there  all  night  themselves,  and  trusted  to  their 
fear  of  tigers  as  a sufficient  motive  for  their  following  me  as  closely 
as  possible.  They  again  dropped  behind,  however,  before  we 
reached  Tandah,  and  only  two  out  of  four  men,  and  seven  out  of 
twelve  mules,  made  their  appearance  at  night  at  Bamoury. 

About  six  miles  from  Ruderpoor  the  plain  became  wilder  and 
more  forest-like.  The  grass  on  either  side  of  the  road  was  almost 
as  high  as  my  elephant,  with  beautiful  white  silky  tufts.  A great 
many  scraggy  trees  were  scattered  on  either  side,  whose  branches 
and  trunks  showed  the  marks  of  the  yearly  conflagration  with 
which  the  cowmen  prepare  the  pasture  for  their  cattle.  The 
jungle  in  this  place  was  still  too  green  to  burn;  but  we  saw  some 
smoke  rising  in  different  places  before  us,  and  Mr.  Boulderson 


TANDAH. 


385 


observed  that  it  was  fortunate  that  the  fires  were  apparently  all 
on  the  leeward  side  of  the  road.  The  last  time  he  passed  the 
forest,  he  and  his  brother  had  been  in  considerable  danger  from 
the  flames,  and  were  obliged  to  put  their  elephants  to  a full  gallop, 
and  cross  a deep  and  difficult  nullah  to  avoid  them.  The  process, 
however,  full  as  much  as  the  cool  season,  by  admitting  a free 
current  of  air  between  the  trees,  contributes  to  make  the  forest 
healthy,  and  when  the  young  grass  has  sprung  up,  and  the 
scorched  trees  have  recovered  their  leaves,  many  beautiful  glades, 
Mr.  Boulderson  said,  open  on  both  sides,  and  the  ride  is  both 
picturesque  and  pleasant.  As  it  was,  I own,  I saw  nothing  ap- 
palling or  menacing  in  the  “ valley  of  death.”  The  grass  was 
high  and  the  jungle  thick,  so,  thick  that  it  was  sometimes  with 
difficulty  that,  even  on  the  raised  causeway,  we  could  force  our 
way  through  it;  but  there  was  nothing  of  that  dark,  dank,  deadly- 
looking  vegetation  which  we  had  seen  at  Ruderpoor;  and  the 
majestic  trees  which  from  time  to  time  towered  over  the  under- 
wood, the  songs  of  the  birds,  and  the  noble  hills  to  which  we  were 
approaching,  made  me  think  I had  passed  very  many  days  in  India 
more  unpleasantly. 

Tandah  is  a small  place,  from  which  the  woods  are  cleared, 
now  quite  overgrown  with  long  grass,  with  a little  brook  winding 
close  to  the  road,  and  a hut  for  a police  establishment,  which,  1 
know  not  why,  but  at  a great  expense  of  human  life,  is  kept  up 
here.  This  is  the  only  place  where  water  is  to  be  found,  till 
travellers  are  close  on  Bamoury.  Half  way  between  the  two. 
Government  some  years  since  endeavoured  to  sink  a well.  They 
expended  a good  deal  of  money,  and  a sad  number  of  lives,  both 
of  natives  and  superintendents,  and  after  all  found  no  water; 
though  if  the  workmen  had  had  the  wit  to  dig  a small  channel  for 
the  water  from  the  hills,  the  object  might  have  been  answered 
cheaply  and  effectually.  As  it  is,  it  is  something  strange  that  the 
high  road  to  Almorah  has  been  made,  at  a great  expense,  to  run 
this  way  at  all.  It  is,  indeed,  some  little  shorter  than  either  of 
the  other  two,  by  Lolioo  Ghat  and  Chilkeah,  and  the  way  over 
the  hills  is  shorter  and  more  easy.  But  then  Chilkeah  is  free,  in 
comparison,  from  malaria ; and  the  belt  of  forest  so  narrow  in 
that  direction,  that  a safe  communication  might  be  secured  at  all 
times  of  the  year.  For  this  and  other  reasons  I made  up  my  mind 
to  return  from  Almorah  that  way. 

At  Tandah,  Mr.  Boulderson  had  posted  his  gig,  with  a fresh 
horse,  further  on,  about  half  way  through  the  forest.  I accom- 
panied him,  and  found  the  road  better  than  I expected,  though 
we  had  several  delays  from  broken  bridges,  thick  jungle,  &c.  and 
were  often  obliged  to  walk  some  little  distance.  The  day  was 
cloudy  and  the  breeze  cool,  so  that  we  did  not  in  the  least  suffer 

VoL.  I. — 49 


386 


INHABITANTS  OF  KEMAOON. 


from  the  heat ; but  it  was  curious  to  see  how  carefully  my  com- 
panion on  such  occasions  kept  his  gun,  loaded  with  ball,  in  his 
hand.  This  caution  was  particularly  observable  soon  after  a 
jackall  had  crossed  our  path.  The  jackall,  Mr.  Boulderson  ob- 
served, is  certainly  not,  as  is  said,  the  provider  for  large  animals, 
who  want  no  assistance  in  finding  and  killing  their  game.  But 
wherever  a tiger  is,  the  jackall  and  the  vultures  usually  follow 
him,  and  pick  the  bones  which  the  lordly  savage  leaves  behind. 
They  do  not,  however,  venture  to  do  this  till  he  has  fairly  left  the 
place';  and  if  hunters  or  travellers  find  the  carcass  of  a bullock 
or  deer  with  the  vultures  and  jackalls  feeding,  they  know  that  the 
tyrant  has  withdrawn : while  if  the  smaller  animals  are  looking 
round  and  round,  as  if  desiring,  yet  afraid  to  draw  near,  they 
prepare  themselves  immediately  for  flight,  or  to  encounter  a for- 
midable enemy.  We,  however,  saw  nothing  of  the  kind,  but  had 
a peaceable  and  pleasant  journey  till  we  came  to  a tract  where 
the  fires  had  already  been  active,  where  little  huts  and  herds  of 
diminutive  cattle  were  seen  peeping  out  under  the  trees,  and  we 
overtook  the  rear-guard  of  our  caravan,  who  told  us  we  were  near 
Bamoury. 

The  population  which  we  saw  were  Khasya,  or  inhabitants  of 
Kemaoon,  who  yearly  come  down,  after  the  unwholesome  time  is 
over,  to  graze  their  cattle  and  cultivate  the  best  and  driest  spots 
of  the  forest  with  barley  and  wheat,  which  they  reap  and  carry 
back  with  them  before  April  is  far  advanced,  when  they  return 
to  reap  the  similar,  but  somewhat  later  crops,  which  they  had 
sown  before  they  left  their  own  country.  At  the  same  time  they 
obtain  an  opportunity  of  disposing  of  their  honey  and  other  com- 
modities of  the  hills,  and  buying  different  little  luxuries  with  which 
the  plains  only,  and  the  more  civilized  parts  of  Hindostan,  can 
supply  them.  Many  of  them  were  close  by  the  way-side,  very 
dark  and  meagre  people,  but  strongly  and  neatly  made,  and  not 
so  diminutive  as  the  inhabitants  of  such  mountains  generally  are. 
They  were  all  wrapped  up  in  the  long  black  blankets  of  their 
marshland  neighbours,  but  very  few  of  them  had  arms.  Mr. 
Boulderson  said  they  merely  carried  them  against  tigers,  for  there 
was  scarcely  a more  peaceable  or  honest  race  in  the  world. 

We  now  passed  a rapid  and  gravelly  brook  of  beautiful  water, 
overhung  by  shady  trees,  with  Khasya  tents  all  round  it,  by  which 
the  main  body  of  our  caravan  had  halted  to  repose  and  drink. 
We  pushed  on,  however,  and  soon  began  to  rise  up  a gentle  ascent, 
into  the  gorge  of  a delightful  valley,  with  woody  mountains  on 
either  side,  and  a considerable  river  running  through  it,  dashing 
over  a rocky  bottom  with  great  noise  and  violence. 

A little  above  this  beautiful  stream,  some  miserable  pucka  sheds 
pointed  out  the  Company’s  warehouses  and  police  establishment; 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  JOURNEY  TO  ALMORAH.  387 

and  a sentry  in  a green  uniform,  who  presented  arms  as  we  came 
up,  and  a daroga  who  could  hardly  speak  Hiiidoostanee,  showed 
us  that  we  were  already  in  a new  land,  and  within  the  limits  of 
the  Himalaya.  There  is  a very  small  and  uncomfortable  room 
adjoining  the  warehouse,  which  is  usually  occupied  by  travellers. 
Here  we  took  shelter,  till  our  tents  were  pitched,  and  the  view 
was  so  beautiful  as  they  rose,  one  after  the  other,  in  the  green 
but  stony  meadow  beneath,  that  I was  some  time  in  recollecting 
that  I had  many  things  to  do ; and  that  no  time  was  to  be  lost  in 
preparing  for  a journey  under  very  different  circumstances  from 
those  in  which  I had  yet  travelled.  I found  two  chuprassees  with 
letters  from  Mr.  Traill  and  Mr.  Adam  at  Almorah ; the  former 
saying  that  he  had  sent  down  his  own  pony  for  my  use,  together 
with  twenty-one  coolies  from  Almorah,  being  convinced  that  I 
should  want  nearly  that  number  for  the  conveyance  of  my  own 
baggage  and  that  of  my  people.  He  added  that  two  new  hill- 
tents,  which  he  had  ordered  for  himself,  were  now  on  their  road 
upwards,  and  that  he  had  halted  them  at  Bamoury  in  the  idea 
that  they  might  be  serviceable  to  me. 

Mr.  Adam  spoke  of  his  own  bad  health  which  had  obliged  him 
to  remove  from  Almorah  to  Havelbagh ; and  said  that  though  he 
could  not  be  present  to  receive  me,  1 should  find  his  house  at  the 
former  place  ready.  While  I was  reading  these  letters,  the  daroga 
returned  with  a pretty  little  boy,  his  son;  they  brought  two  plates 
of  beautiful  pomegranates  and  lemons,  with  a pot  of  honey  and 
another  of  milk,  as  a present.  For  the  three  first  of  these  the 
lower  range  of  mountains  is  celebrated.  The  fourth  is,  as  we 
afterwards  found,  a scarce  article  in  this  country,  and  therefore 
proportionably  valued.  1 received  them  with  thanks,  as  indeed 
they  were  all  very  acceptable,  and  took  an  opportunity,  shortly 
after,  of  giving  the  little  boy  a rupee,  as  a civiller  method  of 
making  a return,  than  giving  it  immediately  to  the  father.  To 
my  surprise,  the  child  blushed  exceedingly,  and  said  he  was 
ashamed  to  take  it,  and  that  the  things  were  not  worth  so  much. 
This  was  very  unlike  a young  Bengalee;  however,  on  my  telling 
him  it  was  not  as  payment,  but  out  of  good-will,  and  for  him  to 
buy  “ metai,”  sweetmeats,  with,  his  countenance  brightened  up, 
he  pressed  it  to  his  forehead  and  packed  it  up  carefully  in  the 
folds  of  his  girdle.  He  spoke  Hindoostanee  hesitatingly,  and  like 
a foreign  language,  but  I understood  him  very  well.  On  going 
down  to  the  tents  I got  packed  up  the  things  which  I was  most 
likely  to  want  for  my  journey,  in  the  bullock-trunks  and  the  square 
petarrahs,  to  be  carried  by  three  mules ; another  mule  was  re- 
quired for  the  kitchen-furniture,  and  three  more  were  necessary, 
that  the  servants  whom  1 took  with  me  might  ride  in  turns.  Our 
seven  mules,  the  remaining  five  not  being  heard  of,  were  thus 


388 


KEMAOON. 


accounted  for.  My  bed  was  found,  not  too  heavy  for  six  of  the 
hill-coolies,  (bearers  from  the  plain  being  ascertained  to  be  nearly 
useless).  One  man  carried  my  writing-desk ; another  two  chairs 
and  the  physic  chest;  two  had  each  a basket  of  provisions  and 
crockery ; two  carried  a leaf  of  the  folding-table ; six  the  baggage 
of  the  sepoys ; and  the  remainder  were  erhployed  as  muleteers, 
&:c.  Sepoys  were  not  absolutely  necessary,  but  as  1 had  them,  I 
thought  I might  as  well  take  some ; and  I directed  the  soubahdar 
to  inquire  what  men  would  volunteer  for  this  service,  on  which 
ten  privates,  a havildar  and  a naick,  two  officers  answering  to  our 
Serjeant  and  corporal,  very  readily  came  forward.  The  rest  of 
the  party  I had  intended  to  leave  at  Bamoury  till  my  return.  It 
appeared,  however,  that  there  was  no  forage  for  the  elephants  or 
camels,  the  trees  which  grew  in  the  neighbourhood  being  all  of  a 
kind  which  they  will  not  eat.  This,  with  the  circumstances  which 
I have  already  mentioned,  and  the  desire  to  see  something  more 
of  Kemaoon,  determined  me  to  send  them  to  Chilkeah,and  I gave 
directions  accordingly.  Here,  however,  a new  difficulty  arose. 
The  mules  which  had  been  described  to  me  as  furnished  with 
every  requisite  for  a journey,  had  neither  bridles  nor  saddles  of 
a proper  kind  for  travelling  in  a string,  or  bearing  considerable 
weights.  Nor  had  any  body,  except  Abdullah,  ever  seen  the  sort 
of  pannel  which  was  necessary.  He  lost  no  time,  but  sate  dowm 
with  a large  packing-needle  and  twine,  and,  in  less  than  an  hour, 
made  out  of  some  of  the  camel  furniture  a serviceable  saddle  and 
bridle,  such  as  are  used  in  Persia.  The  camel  drivers  set  to  work 
in  imitation,  and  by  night  all  the  seven  mules  were  equipped  and 
ready  to  be  loaded  next  piorning.  While  these  things  were  going 
on,  the  daroga’s  little  boy,  who  had  been  watching  us  attentively, 
came  up,  and,  with  joined  hands,  asked  me  to  take  him  with  me 
as  my  servant.  I told  him  I was  going  a long,  long  journey,  over 
mountains,  and  through  jungles,  and  beyond  the  sea,  and  that  he 
would  be  sadly  tired;  on  which  he  blushed  and  said  “ he  was  sure 
he  should  not ;”  I was  pleased  with  his  intelligent  countenance 
and  manner,  and  wished  that  I could  have  taken  him  with  me  and 
brought  him  up  a Christian.  But  these  people  are  Rajpoots  of 
very  high  caste,  so  that  his  father  would,  certainly,  have  stipulated 
that  his  caste  should  be  respected;  and  above  ail,  I had  really  no 
means,  without  great  inconvenience,  of  carrying  a child  of  that  age 
in  such  a journey  as  I was  engaged  in.  I therefore  told  him,  in 
as  good-natured  a way  as  I could,  that  he  had  better  stay  with  his 
father ; and  the  little  fellow  went  away  very  gravely,  and  appa- 
rently disappointed.  Mr.  Boulderson,  meantime,  had  taken  his 
fishing-rod  down  to  the  river,  and  now  returned  with  some,  not 
large,  but  very  beautiful  trout,  in  all  respects  like  those  of  our  own 
country.  These  formed  an  agreeable  accession  to  our  dinner ; 


SEPOYS— PASSAGE  OF  THE  HIMALAYA.  389 

and  the  cool  mountain  breeze,  the  rustling  of  the  forest,  and  the 
incessant  roar  of  the  rapid  stream,  made  me  feel  as  if  I were  in 
Europe  again  ; and  I again  longed  exceedingly  for  her,  who  of  all 
others  of  my  acquaintance  would  most  have  enjoyed  our  present 
situation.  Mr.  Boulderson  made  me  here  a present  of  two  sheep, 
one  of  which  I gave  to  the  sepoys  for  a feast  after  their  long  march. 
The  other  was  required  for  the  mountains,  where,  except  game, 
meat  of  any  kind  is  seldom  to  be  obtained.  With  soldiers  of  all 
countries,  these  little  attentions  go  a great  way,  but  with  sepoys 
I think  more  than  with  any  others.  General  Vanrenen  told  me 
that  by  harshness  they  were  immediately  discouraged,  but  that  by 
speaking  to  them  kindly,  and  showing  a regard  to  their  comforts, 
there  was  no  exertion  which  they  might  not  be  induced  to  make 
with  cheerfulness.  I,  certainly,  have  not  given  them  extraordinary 
trouble  in  general,  but  a twenty-five  mile  march  in  this  climate  is 
enough  to  try  a soldier’s  temper;  and  the  cheerfulness  with  w^hich 
they  all  answered  my  inquiries  as  1 overtook  them  on  the  road, 
the  readiness  with  which  they  turned  out  to  go  up  the  hills  with 
me,  and  other  little  circumstances,  have  made  me  hope  that  I am 
by  no  means  an  unpopular  person  with  them. 

J^ovember  23. — This  morning  I mounted  Mr.  Traill’s  pony, 
a stout  shaggy  little  white  animal,  whose  birth-place  might  have 
been  in  Wales,  instead  of  the  Himalaya.  Mr.  Boulderson  w^as 
on  a similar  one  which  he  had  brought  from  the  hills  some  years 
before.  He  was  equipped  for  the  journey  with  a long  spear,  had 
his  gun,  a double-barrelled  one,  loaded  with  ball  and  shot,  carried 
close  to  him,  and  two  men  with  matchlocks  who  seemed  his  usual 
attendants.  By  his  advice  I had  my  pistols,  and  he  also  lent  me 
a double-barrelled  gun,  saying,  we  might  see  tigers.  After  a good 
deal  of  trouble  in  getting  the  mules  and  coolies  started,  we  pro- 
• ceeded  on  our  journey  as  it  began  to  dawn,  a night  march  being 
not  very  safe  amid  these  mountains,  and  the  beauty  of  the  scenery 
being  of  itself  a sufficient  motive  to  see  all  which  w^as  to  be  seen. 
The  road  was,  certainly,  sufficiently  steep  and  rugged,  and,  par- 
ticularly when  intersected  by  torrents,-  1 do  not  think  it  was 
passable  by  horses  accustomed  only  to  the  plain.  I was  myself 
surprised  to  see  how  dexterously  our  ponies  picked  their  w^ay 
over  large  rolling  pebbles  and  broken  fragments  of  rock,  how 
firmly  they  planted  their  feet,  and  with  how  little  distress  they 
conquered  some  of  the  steepest  ascents  I ever  climbed.  The 
country,  as  we  advanced,  became  exceedingly  beautiful  and 
romantic.  It  reminded  me  most  of  Norway,  but  had  tile  advan- 
tage of  round-topped  trees,  instead  of  the  unvaried  spear-like 
outline  of  the  pine.  It  would  have  been  like  some  parts  of 
Wales,  had  not  the  hills  and  precipices  been  much  higher,  and 
* the  vallies,  or  rather  delis,  narrower  and  more  savage.  We  could 


390 


BEEMTHAL. 


seldom,  from  the  range  on  which  the  road  ran,  see  to  the  bottom 
of  any  of  them,  and  only  heard  the  roar  and  rush  of  the  river 
which  we  had  left,  and  which  the  torrents  which  foamed  across 
our  path  were  hastening  to  join. 

We  saw  several  interesting  plants  and  animals  ; Mr.  Boulder- 
son  shot  two  black  and  purple  pheasants,  and  a jungle  hen  ; we 
saw  some  beautiful  little  white  monkeys,  called  by  the  people 
“ Gounee,”  gamboling  on  the  trees ; and  heard,  which,  perhaps, 
pleased  me  most  of  all,  the  notes  of  an  English  thrush.  The 
bird,  however,  though  Mr.  Boulderson  said  it  is  of  the  thrush 
kind,  is  black.  For  a short  distance  the  vegetation  did  not  differ 
materially  from  that  of  the  plains.  The  first  peculiarities  I saw 
were  some  nettles  of  very  great  size,  and  some  magnificent 
creepers,  which  hung  their  wild  cordage,  as  thick  as  a ship’s 
cable  and  covered  with  broad  bright  leaves,  from  tree  to  tree 
over  our  heads.  After  about  an  hour  and  a half’s  ascent,  Mr. 
Boulderson  pointed  out  to  me  some  dog-rose  trees,  and  a number 
of  raspberry  bushes,  with  here  and  there  a small  but  not  very 
thriving  ever-green  oak.  We  soon  after  saw  a good  many  cherry- 
trees,  of  the  common  wild  English  sort,  in  full  blossom  ; and  as 
we  turned  down  a steep  descent  to  Beemthal,  we  passed  under 
some  pear-trees  with  the  fruit  already  set,  and  a wild  thicket,  I 
will  not  call  it  jungle,  of  raspberry  and  bilberry  bushes  on  either 
side  of  our  path.  W e had  sufficient  proof  during  our  ride,  that 
the  country,  wild  as  it  is,  is  not  uninhabited.  We  met  two  or 
three  companies  of  Khasya  peasantry  going  down  to  their  annual 
cultivation  in  the  forest.  The  men  were  all  middle-sized,  slender, 
and  active,  of  not  dark  complexions,  but  very  poorly  and  scantily 
dressed.  All  were  unarmed  excepting  with  large  sticks.  The 
women  might  have  been  good-looking  if  they  had  been  less  sun- 
burnt and  toil-worn,  or  if  their  noses  and  ears  had  not  been  so 
much  enlarged  by  the  weight  of  the  mettle  rings  with  which  they 
were  ornamented.  Their  dress  was  a coarse  cloth  wrapped  round 
their  waist,  with  a black  blanket  over  the  head  and  shoulders. 
All  had  silver  bracelets,  and  anklets  apparently  of  silver  also,  a 
circumstance  which,  to  an  European  eye,  contrasted  singularly 
with  the  exceeding  poverty  of  their  general  appearance. 

Their  industry  seems  very  great.  In  every  part  wffiere  the 
declivity  was  less  steep,  so  as  to  admit  a plough  or  a spade,  we 
found  little  plots  of  ground,  sometimes  only  four  feet  wide,  and 
ten  or  twelve  long,  in  careful  and  neat  cultivation.  Some  of  these 
were  ranged  in  little  terraces,  one  above  the  other,  supported  by 
walls  of  loose  stones ; and  these  evidences  of  industry  and  popu- 
lation were  the  more  striking,  because  we  literally  did  not  pass 
a single  habitation ; and  even  at  Beemthal,  besides  the  Company’s 
guard-room  and  warehouses,  only  one  miserable  hut  was  visible. 


BEEMTHAL. 


391 


Beemthal  is,  however,  a very  beautiful  place.  It  is  a little  moun- 
tain valley,  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  woody  hills,  and  on  the 
fourth  by  a tract  of  green  meadow,  with  a fine  lake  of  clear 
water.  A small  and  very  rude  pagoda  of  gray  stone,  with  a coarse 
slate  roof,  under  some  fine  peepul-trees,  looked  like  a little 
church ; and  the  whole  scene,  except  that  the  hills  were  higher, 
so  strongly  reminded  me  of  Wales,  that  I felt  my  heart  beat  as  I 
entered  it.  As  we  alighted,  a man  came  up  with  another  basket 
of  fine  trout ; and  after  a good  deal  of  brushing  and  patching,  we 
succeeded  (no  very  easy  task)  in  making  the  ruinous  apartment 
appropriated  for  travellers  look  reasonably  decent  and  comfort- 
able. It  was  in  the  first  instance  more  like  “ lonesome  lodge,” 
in  the  old  ballad  of  “ The  Heir  of  Lynne,”  than  any  thing  which 
I have  seen.  It  was  a single  small  room,  with  a clay  floor,  two 
windows  without  glass,  the  shutters  broken  to  pieces,  and  a roof 
of  unhewn  rafters  of  fir,  with  the  bark  laid  between  them.  There 
was  a fire-place,  however,  and  some  remains  of  a grate,  a pros- 
pect the  more  agreeable,  inasmuch  as  even  now,  though  nearly 
the  hottest  part  of  the  day,  we  found  the  sun  by  no  means 
unpleasant,  and  walked  up  and  down  in  our  cloth  coats  and 
worsted  stockings,  as  if  we  had  been  in  England.  Beemthal  is, 
indeed,  3200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  2700  above  the 
plain  of  Rohilcund.  Yet  even  now.  Mount  Gaughur,  which 
closed  our  present  prospect,  was  5400  feet  higher  than  we  were ; 
and,  if  we  had  been  on  Mount  Gaughur,  we  should  have  seen 
peaks  of  16,000  feet  above  us  still ! 

We  passed  a very  cheerful  and  pleasant  evening,  round  our 
blazing  hearth,  and,  by  help  of  blankets  and  great-coats,  found 
our  beds  extremely  comfortable. 

J^ovember  24. — Mr.  Boulderson  left  me  this  morning,  and  1 
believe  we  parted  with  mutual  regret ; his  pursuits  and  amuse- 
ments were  certainly  very  different  from  mine,  but  I found  in 
him  a fine  temper  and  an  active  mind,  full  of  information  re- 
specting the  country,  animals,  and  people,  among  whom  he  had 
passed  several  years  ; and  on  the  whole  I do  not  think  I have 
acquired  so  much  of  this  kind  of  knowledge  in  so  short  a time 
from  any  person  whom  1 have  met  with  in  India.  I myself 
remained  at  Beemthal  this  day,  partly  to  rest  my  people  after 
their  two  severe  marches,  partly  to  see  another  lake  or  “ Thai” 
at  a short  distance,  which  was  said  to  be  finer  than  that  before 
me. 

I set  off  as  soon  as  Mr.  Boulderson  had  left  me,  about  six 
o’clock  in  the  morning,  on  the  white  pony,  with  a Khasyah 
guide,  Mr.  Traill’s  saees,  and  two  sepoys,  who  had  for  some  time 
shown  on  all  occasions  a great  zeal  to  accompany  me.  One  of 


392 


WATER-MILL. 


these  is  the  man  who  got  leave  to  see  his  brother.  The  other  is 
a brahmin,  a very  decent,  middle-aged  man,  one  of  the  number 
who  was  sick  in  Oude.  He  is  fond  of  telling  me  stories  of  his 
campaigns,  which  he  says  have  many  of  them  been  among  moun- 
tains in  Malwah  and  Bundlecund.  He  owns,  however,  that  the 
mountains  here  are  larger  than  any  which  he  has  yet  visited ; 
even  respecting  these  I found  him  not  ill-informed,  both  as  to 
the  holy  places  situated  among  them,  Bhadrinath,  Gungootree, 
&c.,  the  situation  of  the  source  of  the  Ganges,  which  he  cor- 
rectly stated,  in  answer  to  a question  which  I put  to  try  him,  to 
be  on  this  side  of  the  snowy  mountains,  and  the  scenes  where 
battles  were  fought  during  the  Gorkhali  war.  The  other  soldier 
had  not  much  to  say,  but  was  exceedingly  civil  and  willing  to 
oblige,  and  had  a pair  of  the  longest  and  most  nimble  legs  and 
the  strongest  arms  I have  seen.  The  latter  were  of  some  use  to 
me  this  morning,  our  stupid  gude  having  led  me  along  a path  so 
narrow,  that  Mr.  Traill’s  pony  had  neither  room  to  turn  nor  to 
advance  with  me  on  his  back,  nor  could  I conveniently  dismount, 
having  one  knee  pressed  against  a steep  bank,  and  the  oppposite 
foot  hanging  over  the  rocky  edge  of  a brook,  some  ten  feet  high. 
I had  nothing  for  it  but  to  climb  the  bank,  and  in  so  doing  I found 
a most  valuable  support  in  this  man’s  arm,  while  nothing  could 
exceed  his  zeal  in  the  cause.  The  pony  still  could  not  advance 
till  his  holsters  were  taken  off,  and  to  avoid  such  risks  in  future, 

I told  the  long-legged  sepoy  to  go  on  next  to  the  guide,  and  give 
warning  if  we  were  coming  to  a place  where  the  horse  could  not 
pass.  The  path  lay  along  a very  elevated  valley,  nearly  bare  of 
trees,  but  cultivated  with  a most  persevering  industry,  almost  to 
the  mountain’s  top.  The  bleak  appearance  of  the  place,  its 
general  features,  its  strong  soil,  and  the  extent  of  agriculture,  a 
good  deal  reminded  me  of  that  part  of  Llanarmon  which  is  near 
the  “ Tavern  Dwrck.”  I passed  no  village,  nor  more  than  one 
house.  This  last,  however,  was  very  interesting,  being  a water- 
mill with  an  overshot  wheel,  w^hich  is  supplied  by  the  brook 
where  I so  narrowly  missed  a tumble.  The  mill,  though  ex- 
ceedingly rude,  was  of  the  same  sort  as  in  other  countries,  but 
was  the  tiniest  specimen  I ever  saw.  The  stones  were  not  larger 
than  would  serve  a reasonable  hand-mill ; the  building  so  small 
that  nobody  could  enter  but  on  their  hands  and  knees  ; and  the 
sacks  of  corn  and  flour  disposed  about  the  door,  were  all  on  the 
same  Lilliputian  scale.  The  lake  which  I went  to  see,  the  name 
of  which  is  Nongungee,  disappointed  me.  It  is  a very  pretty, 
secluded  mountain  tarn,  with  some  rock  and  wood  around  it, 
and  its  surface  covered  with  fine  water-lilies,  but  neither  so  large 
nor  so  beautiful  as  Beemthal.  I was  glad,  however,  that  f had 


KHASYAHS. 


393 


come,  and  returning  a different  way,  had  a very  fine  view  of  the 
other  side  of  this  secluded  valley,  which  is  more  rugged  and  woody 
than  that  on  which  I had  been  hitherto  looking. 

The  Khasyah  nation  pretend  to  be  all  Rajpoots  of  the  highest 
caste,  and  very  scrupulous  in  their  eating  and  drinking.  They 
will  not  even  sell  one  of  their  little  mountain  cows  to  a stranger, 
unless  he  will  swear  that  he  neither  will  kill  it  himself,  nor  trans- 
fer it  to  any  body  else  in  order  to  be  killed  : and  as  these  cows 
give  very  little  milk,  and  as  their  abhorrence  of  feathers  leads 
the  cottagers  to  keep  no  poultry,  a stranger  passing  through  their 
country,  who  cannot  kill  his  own  game,  or  who  has  not  such  a 
friend  as  Mr.  Boulderson  to  do  it  for  him,  stands  a bad  chance  of 
obtaining  any  supplies,  except  very  coarse  black  bread  and  water, 
with  perhaps  a little  honey.  They  are  a modest,  gentle,  respect- 
ful people,  honest  in  their  dealings,  and  as  remarkable  for  their 
love  of  truth  as  the  Puharrees  of  Rajmahal  and  Boglipoor.  As 
their  language  is  different  from  that  of  Hindustan,  I was  anxious 
to  know  whether  it  resembled  that  of  these  other  mountaineers, 
but  found  that  a party  who,  on  one  occasion,  accompanied  Mr. 
Traill  to  Bengal  were  unintelligible  to  the  southern  Puharree. 
Indeed  their  real  or  pretended  Rajpoot  descent  would,  of  itself, 
prove  them  to  be  a different  race.  Those  who  went  with  Mr. 
Traill,  I learned  from  Mr.  Boulderson,  who  was  also  of  the  party, 
took  no  notice  whatever  of  the  Rajmahal  hills,  even  when  passing 
over  them.  Mr.  Boulderson  said,  “ Are  you  not  pleased  to  see 
mountains  again?”  “ What  mountains?”  was  the  reply.  “ These 
mountains,  to  be  sure,”  returned  he.  “ They  are  not  mountains, 
they  are  play-things,”  was  their  answer.  In  comparison  with 
their  own  they  might,  indeed,  say  so  without  affectation. 

Kovemher  25. — ^This  morning  we  began  to  pack  by  four  o’clock, 
but  owing  to  the  restiveness  of  the  mules  and  the  clumsiness  of 
the  people,  divers  accidents  occurred,  the  most  serious  of  which 
was  the  bursting  of  one  of  the  petarrahs.  At  length  we  got  off, 
and  after  coasting  the  lake  for  one  mile,  went  for  about  thirteen 
more  by  a most  steep  and  rugged  road,  over  the  neck  of  mount 
Gaughur,  through  a succession  of  glens,  forests,  and  views  of  the 
most  sublime  and  beautiful  description.  I never  saw  such  pros- 
pects before,  and  had  formed  no  adequate  idea  of  such.  My 
attention  was  completely  strained,  and  my  eyes  filled  with  tears ; 
every  thing  around  was  so  wild  and  magnificent  that  man  appeared 
as  nothing,  and  I felt  myself  as  if  climbing  the  steps  of  the  altar 
of  God’s  great  temple.  The  trees,  as  we  advanced,  were  in  a 
large  proportion  fir  and  cedar,  but  many  were  ilex,  and  to  my 
surprise  I still  saw,  even  in  these  Alpine  tracts,  many  venerable 
peepul  trees,  on  which  the  white  monkeys  were  playing  their 
gambols.  A monkey  is  also  found  in  these  hills  as  large  as  a large 

VoL.  I. — 50 


394 


MOUNT  GAUGHUR. 


dog,  if  my  guides  are  to  be  believed.  Tigers  used  to  be  very 
common  and  mischievous,  but  since  the  English  have  frequented 
the  country  are  scarce,  and  in  comparison  very  shy.  There  are 
also  many  vv^olves  and  bears,  and  some  chamois,  two  of  which 
passed  near  us.  My  sepoys  wanted  me  to  shoot  one,  and  offered, 
with  my  leave,  to  do  so  themselves,  if  I did  not  like  the  walk 
which  would  be  necessary.  But  my  people  would  not  have  eaten 
them.  I myself  was  well  supplied  with  provisions,  and  I did  not 
wish  to  destroy  an  innocent  animal  merely  for  the  sake  of  looking 
at  it  a little  closer ; I therefore  told  them  that  it  was  not  my  cus- 
tom to  kill  any  thing  which  was  not  mischievous,  and  asked  if 
they  would  stand  by  me  if  we  saw  a tiger  or  a bear.  They  pro- 
mised eagerly  not  to  fail  me,  and  I do  not  think  they  would  have 
broken  their  words.  After  winding  up 

“ A wild  romantic  chasm  that  slanted 
Down  the  steep  hill  athwart  a cedar  cover, 

A savage  place,  as  holy  and  enchanted 
As  e’er  beneath  the  waning  moon  was  haunted 
By  woman  wailing  for  her  demon  lover,” 

we  arrived  at  the  gorge  of  the  pass,  in  an  indent  between  the  two 
principal  summits  of  mount  Gaughur,  near  8,600  feet  above  the 
sea.  And  now  the  snowy  mountains,  which  had  been  so  long 
eclipsed,  opened  on  us  in  full  magnificence.  To  describe  a. view 
of  this  kind  is  only  lost  labour,  and  1 found  it  nearly  impossible 
to  take  a sketch  of  it ; such  as  I was  able  to  make  I,  however, 
send  with  this  packet. 

Nundidevi  was  immediately  opposite ; Kedar  Nath  was  not 
visible  from  our  present  situation,  and  Meru  only  seen  as  a very 
distant  single  peak.  The  eastern  mountains,  however,  for  which 
I have  obtained  no  name,  rose  into  great  consequence,  and  were 
very  glorious  objects  as  we  wound  down  the  hill  on  the  other 
side.  The  guides  could  only  tell  me  that  “ they  were  a great 
way  off,  and  bordered  on  the  Chinese*  empire.”  They  are,  I 
suppose,  in  Thibet. 

Bbadrinath  is  a famous  place  of  pilgrimage  for  the  Hindoos. 
The  Khasya  guide,  however,  said  that  the  temple  was  consider- 
ably on  this  side  the  snow,  which  last  none  but  the  deotas  had 
visited  before  the  “ Sahib  Log”  (Europeans)  came  into  the  coun- 
try. *Mr.  Traill  has  ascended  a considerable  way  up  it.  Almorah, 
I was  told,  might  be  seen  from  hence  ; the  hill  on  which  it  stands, 
they  made  me  see,  I believe,  but  I could  not  distinguish  any 
houses.  On  mount  Gaughur  1 found  the  first  ice  which  1 have 
come  in  contact  with.  The  little  streams  on  the  northern  side 
of  the  hill  had  all  a thin  crust  on  them : and  the  hoar  frost,  in 
one  or  two  places,  made  the  path  so  slippery  that  I thought  it 


RAMGHUR. 


395 


best  to  dismount  from  the  pony.  Indeed,  though  the  sun  was 
already  high,  arid  I was  warmly  drest,  a walk  down  the  hill  to 
our  halting-place  at  Ramghur,  was  by  no  means  unpleasant. 

Ramghur  is  a very  small  and  poor  village,  the  first  which  1 
had  seen  in  Kemaoon,  seated  by  a fine  rapid  stream  in  a narrow 
winding  valley,  the  sides  of  which,  to  a very  great  height,  are 
cultivated  in  narrow  terraces,  with  persevering  and  obstinate 
industry,  though  the  soil  is  so  stony  that  many  of  the  little  fields 
more  resemble  the  deposit  of  a torrent  than  an  arable  piece  of 
ground.  The  Company’s  warehouse  and  guard-house  stand  at  a 
little  height  above  the  village ; and  the  head  man  of  the  place 
came  to  meet  me  with  some  small  trout,  and,  what  to  me  were  a 
great  rarity,  some  young  potatoes.  The  view  much  reminded 
me  of  Driostuen,  in  Norway ; and  though  the  snowy  mountains 
were  not  visible,  and  though,  except  on  mount  Gaughur,  there 
was  not  much  wood,  the  picture  formed  was  exceedingly  striking. 

There  was  a castle  at  Ramghur  during  the  time  of  the  Gorkha 
power,  now  dismantled  and  gone  to  decay.  A good  deal  of  iron 
ore  is  also  forind  in  the  neighbourhood,  which  the  inhabitants  of 
the  small  village  were  employed  in  washing  from  its  grosser  im- 
purities, and  fitting  it  to  be  transported  to  Almorah  for  smelting. 
Why  they  do  not  smelt  it  on  the  spot  I could  not  learn,  since 
there  is  wood  enough  on  mount  Gaughur. 

1 walked  to  the  village  in  the  afternoon,  and  found  Mr.  Traill’s 
chuprassee  putting  all  the  milch-goats  which  the  poor  people 
possessed  in  requisition,  to  obtain  some  milk  for  my  tea.  The 
goats  were  very  reluctant,  but  a little  was  at  length  obtained, 
which,  much  against  the  chuprassee’s  will,  I paid  for,  and  also 
gave  a few  pice  to  some  of  the  children,  which  soon  drew  a 
crowd  after  me.  The  houses,  people,  children,  and  animals, 
showed  marks  of  poverty.  Almost  all  the  children  were  naked, 
and  the  grown  persons,  except  their  black  blankets,  had  scarcely 
a rag  to  cover  them.  The  houses  were  ranged  in  a line,  with  a 
row  of  still  smaller  huts  opposite,  which  seemed  to  be  for  their 
cattle,  though  in  England  they  might  have  passed  for  very  poor 
pigsties.  The  houses,  indeed,  were  little  better,  none  of  them 
high  enough  to  stand  up  in,  the  largest  not  more  than  ten  feet 
square,  and  the  door,  the  only  aperture,  a square  hole  of  about 
four  feet  every  way.  The  people  were  little  and  slender,  but 
apparently  muscular  and  active ; their  countenances  intelligent 
and  remarkably  mild,  and  one  or  two  of  their  women  were  not 
very  far  removed  from  pretty.  This  tribe  of  the  Khasya  nation, 
the  chuprassee  told  me,  are  decidedly  of  migratory  habits,  dividing 
their  time  between  the  hills  and  the  forest,  according  to  the  sea- 
sons, and  it  was  thus  that  he  accounted  for  the  miserable  state  of 
their  habitations.  They  very  cheerfully  and  civilly  showed  me 


396  PASSAGE  OF  THE  NEARER  RANGE  OF  THE  HIMALAYA. 

the  manner  in  which  they  washed  the  ore,  which  is  done  by 
enclosing  it  in  large  wicker  baskets,  like  those  made  to  catch  eels 
in  England,  surrounded  partially  by  a goat-skin,  but  with  a hole 
at  the  smaller  extremity.  This  is  placed  under  a stream  of  water 
conveyed  in  the  same  manner,  and  within  an  almost  similar  hut 
as  the  corn-mill,  which  I had  seen  the  day  before,  and  the  earth 
is  thus  washed  away,  leaving  the  iron  behind. 

Even  here  are  numerous  traces  of  the  superstition  of  India. 
We  passed  some  rudely  carved  stones,  with  symbols  of  brahmini- 
cal  idolatry ; and  three  miserable-looking  beggars,  two  brahmins, 
and  a viragee,  came  to  ask  alms,  in  a strange  mixture  between 
Khasya  and  Hindoostanee.  A traveller,  wrapped  in  long  cotton 
cloths,  with  a long  matchlock  on  his  shoulder,  a shield  and  sword 
on  his  left  side,  on  a pretty  good  horse,  and  attended  by  a ragged 
saees  carrying  two  petarrahs,  passed  us  and  went  on  to  the  vil- 
lage. Abdullah  said  that  he  knew  him  by  his  dress  to  be  a Sikh, 
and  that  he  had  probably  been  in  search  of  employment  as  a sol- 
dier, either  from  the  Raja  of  Kemaoon,  the  Gorkhas,  or,  perhaps, 
the  Chinese.  He  was  a very  picturesque  figure,  and  curious  as 
a specimen  of  the  irregular  mercenary  troops  of  India. 

My  own  sepoys  had  a grievous  quarrel  with  the  “ Goomashta,” 
or  agent  of  the  Company’s  warehouse,  and  I was  appeale'd  to 
loudly  by  both  parties ; the  soldiers  calling  on  me  as  Ghureeb 
purwar, — the  Goomashta,  not  to  be  outdone,  exclaiming,  ‘‘  Donai 
Lord  Sahib  ! Donai ! Raja.”  I found  that  good  flour,  which  sold 
at  Ruderpoor  at  thirty-eight  seer  for  the  rupee,  was  here  at  fifteen 
seer  only,  and  that  the  mixture  which  the  man  offered  to  the 
soldiers  was  really  so  full  of  bran,  and  even  chaff,  as  to  be  fit  for 
nothing  but  an  elephajit.  The  man  said,  in  reply,  that  he  went 
by  the  Company’s  measure,  and  the  regulation  price ; that  all 
flour,  except  such  as  we  saw,  was  scarce  and  dear  in  this  part  of 
Kemaoon ; that  he  was  allowed,  in  consequence  of  his  situation, 
to  charge  more  ; and  that  the  people  and  soldiery  of  the  country 
desired  no  better  than  that  which  he  furnished.  I terminated 
the  quarrel  at  last  by  paying  the  difference  in  price,  amounting  to 
no  more  than  one  rupee,  between  the  good  and  the  bad,  and  all 
sides  were  satisfied  and  thankful. 

November  — ^This  morning  we  proceeded  along  a narrow 

valley  to  a broken  bridge  over  the  torrent,  so  like,  in  scenery  and 
circumstances,  to  that  called  Alarm  Brug,  in  Dovre  in  Norway, 
that  1 could  have  almost  fancied  myself  there.  We  forded  the 
stream  without  difficulty,  though  over  a very  rugged  bed ; but, 
during  the  rains,  one  of  the  chuprassees  told  me,  a rope,  which 
I saw  hanging  loosely  across  the  ruined  arch,  was  to  transport 
the  postman  or  any  other  passenger.  He  was  seated  in  a basket 
hung  by  a loop  on  this  rope,  and  drawn  over,  backwards  and 


PASSAGE  OF  THE  NEARER  RANGE  OF  THE  HIMALAYA.  397 


forwards,  by  two  smaller  ones  fastened  to  the  basket  on  each 
side.  This  is  an  ingenious  though  simple  method  of  conveyance, 
which  is  practised  also  by  the  catchers  of  sea-fowl  on  many  parts 
of  the  coast  of  Norway ; it  was  the  only  way  formerly  in  use  of 
passing  torrents  or  chasms  in  these  countries ; and  the  stone  bridges 
which  the  English  have  erected  are  very  ill  able  to  resist  the 
floods  of  the  rainy  season,  which  rush  down  these  steep  descents 
with  great  violence  and  rapidity.  Bridges  on  Mr.  Shakespear’s 
plan  are  best  calculated  for  this  country. 

The  snowy  peaks  had  been  concealed  ever  since  we  descended 
Gaughur,  but  the  country  is  still  very  sublime ; less  woody,  less 
luxuriant  than  the  southern  side  of  thaEmountain,  but  still  moulded 
in  the  most  majestic  forms,  and  such  as  I hardly  knew  whether 
to  prefer  or  no,  to  the  splendid  scenery  which  I had  passed. 
The  road  is  yet  more  rugged  and  steep  than  that  over  the  Gaug- 
hur, and  the  precipices  higher ; or  rather,  perhaps,  their  height 
is  more  seen,  because  the  trees  are  fewer  and  more  stunted,  and 
there  is  nothing  to  break  the  view  from  the  brow  to  the  very 
bottom,  with  its  roaring  stream,  and  narrow  shingly  meadows. 

I know  not  what  is  the  reason  or  instinct  which  induces  all  ani- 
mals accustomed  to  mountain  travelling,  such  as  mules,  sheep, 
black  cattle,  and  such  ponies  as  1 was  now  riding,  to  go  by 
preference  as  near  the  edge  as  possible.  I have  often  observed, 
and  been  puzzled  to  account  for  it.  The  road  is,  indeed,  smoother 
and  most  beaten  there,  hut  it  has  been  this  predilection  of  theirs, 
which  has,  in  the  first  instance,  made  it  so.  My  present  pony 
had  this  preference  very  decidedly,  and  I often  found  him  picking 
his  way  along,  what  I should  have  thought,  the  extreme  verge 
of  safety.  I was  satisfied,  however,  that  he  knew  best,  and 
therefore  let  him  take  his  own  course,  though  my  constant  attend- 
ants, the  two  sepoys,  often  called  out  to  him,  “ Ah,  Pearl,  (his 
name,)  go  in  the  middle,  do  not  go  on  the  brink.”  The  fact  is, 
that  though  there  is  some  fatigue  there  is  no  danger  in  any  part 
of  the  road,  if  a person  is  properly  mounted  and  not  nervous. 

The  long-legged  sepoy,  who  is,  I find,  a brahmin,  as  well  as 
his  comrade,  is  certainly  an  excellent  walker;  when  I stopped, 
as  I made  a point  of  doing  from  time  to  time,  for  my  party  and 
my  horse  to  take  breath,  he  always  said  he  was  not  tired ; and 
he  fairly  beat  the  Kemaoon  chuprassees,  though  natives  of  the 
country.  Both  he  and  the  elder  man  profess  to  like  their  journey 
exceedingly ; and  the  latter  was  greatly  delighted  this  morning, 
when,  on  climbing  a second  mountain,  we  had  a more  extensive 
and  panoramic  view  of  the  icy  range  than  we  had  seen  before, 
and  the  guides  pointed  out  Meru  ! “ That,  my  lord,  (he  cried 

out,)  is  the  greatest  of  all  mountains  ! out  of  that  Gunga  flows  !” 
The  younger,  who  is  not  a man  of  many  words,  merely  muttered 
Ram  ! Ram  ! Ram  ! 


398  PASSAGE  OF  THE  NEARER  RANGE  OF  THE  HIMALAYA. 


I had  expected,  from  this  hill,  to  see  something  like  a table- 
land or  elevated  plain,  but  found,  instead,  nothing  but  one  range 
of  mountains  after  the  other,  quite  as  rugged,  and,  generally 
speaking,  more  bare  than  those  which  we  had  left,  till  the  horizon 
was  terminated  by  a vast  range  of  ice  and  snow,  extending  its 
battalion  of  white  shining  spears  from  east  to  west,  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  follow  it , the  principal  points  rising  like  towers  in  the 
glittering  rampart,  but  all  connected  by  a chain  of  humbler  gla- 
ciers. On  one  of  the  middle  range  of  mountains  before  us,  a 
little  lower  than  the  rest,  some  white  buildings  appeared,  and  a 
few  trees,  with  a long  zigzag  road  winding  up  the  face  of  the 
hill. 

This,  1 was  told,  was  the  city  and  fortress  of  Almorah.  The 
other  nearer  features  in  the  view  were  some  extensive  pine  forests, 
some  scattered  villages  of  rather  better  appearance  than  those 
which  we  had  left,  and  the  same  marks  of  industry  in  the  suc- 
cessive terraces  by  which  all  the  lower  parts  of  the  hills  are 
intersected.  These  have  by  no  means  a bad  effect  in  the  land- 
scape. The  lines  are  too  short  and  too  irregular  to  have  a formal 
appearance ; the  bushes  and  small  trees  which  grow  on  their 
brinks  look  at  a little  distance  exactly  like  hedges ; and  the  low 
stone  walls,  so  far  as  they  are  discernible  at  all,  seem  natural 
accompaniments  to  steeps  so  rugged  and  craggy. 

The  mountains  which  I passed  in  these  stages  were  all,  so  far 
as  1 saw,  of  limestone.  There  are,  indeed,  vast  detached  masses 
of  granite  lying  every  where  on  the«ides  of  the  hills,  in  the  valleys 
and  the  torrents  ; and  the  peaks  of  the  mountains,  if  I had  climbed 
up  to  them,  would  doubtless  have  proved  of  the  same  substance. 
But  limestone  and  coarse  slate  are  the  materials  of  which  the 
road  and  walls  are  made ; and  the  few  cottages  which  1 have 
seen  of  a better  appearance  than  the  rest,  (I  passed  two  more 
villages  in  this  day’s  march,)  are  built  and  roofed  with  the  same 
materials,  as  are  also  the  Government  warehouses.  I saw^  many 
European  plants  to-day.  Cherry-trees  were  numerous.  I ob- 
served a good  deal  of  honey-suckle  and  some  hips  and  haws,  and 
one  of  the  guides  brought  me  a large  handful  of  bilberries.  I 
saw, however,  no  ice;  and,  indeed,  I had  many  opportunities  of 
observing,  that,  high  as  we  had  climbed  in  the  course  of  the  day, 
we  were  not  so  high  as  when  on  the  top  of  Gaughur.  Nothing 
could  be  finer  than  the  climate.  Though  the  sun  was  hot  before 
w^e  got  to  our  station,  the  distance  being  seven  coss,  it  was  not 
unpleasant  at  any  time  of  the  day ; nor,  though  in  the  shade  it  was 
certainly  cold  and  chilly,  was  it  more  so  than  is  usually  felt  in 
England  in  the  finest  part  of  October. 

My  sepoys,  who,  as  all  water-drinkers  are,  are  critics  in  the 
beverage,  praised  exceedingly  the  purity  and  lightness  of  the 
little  streams  which  gushed  across  the  road,  Mr.  Boulderson, 


PASSAGE  OF  THE  NEARER  RANGE  OF  THE  HIMALAYA.  399 


indeed,  had  told  me  that  the  Khasyas  pride  themselves  much  on 
their  springs,  and  have  been  known  to  refuse  advantageous 
situations  in  the  plain,  saying,  “how  can  we  get  good  water 
there  ?”  This,  however,  does  not  seem  to  militate  against  their 
annual  emigration.  All  the  villages  which  we  passed  were  empty, 
the  people  having  gone  to  Bamoury  for  the  winter.  One  or  two 
cottages,  however,  were  still  inhabited  round  the  Company’s 
post,  the  master  of  one  of  which,  who,  though  dressed  like  a 
common  Khasya  peasant,  said  he  was  the  Zemindar  of  the  dis- 
trict, brought  me  some  beautiful  lemons  and  some  young  potatoes, 
both  the  produce  of  his  garden.  Potatoes  are  much  liked  by  the 
mountaineers,  and  are  becoming  very  common.  They  are,  per- 
haps, among  the  most  valuable  presents  which  they  are  likely  to 
receive  from  their  new  masters. 

My  attention  here,  as  elsewhere,  is  never  quite  withdrawn 
from  missionary  inquiries,  but  in  these  annual  emigrations  1 see 
a great  hinderance  to  their  reception  of  the  Gospel,  or  the  educa- 
tion of  their  children.  At  Almorah,  however,  and  in  the  other 
towns,  the  case  is,  in  some  respects,  different. 

The  Company’s  post  is  a small  bungalow,  with  a still  smaller 
guard-room,  which  latter  could  only  accommodate  the  Naitch  and 
his  party,  whom  we  found  in  possession,  while  the  stony  soil  all 
around  would  not  admit  of  our  pitching  the  tents.  The  soldiers 
and  servants  were,  therefore,  obliged  to  sleep  in  the  open  air. 

During  the  afternoon,  and  soon  after  I had  finished  my  early 
dinner,  a very  fine  cheerful  old  man,  with  staff  and  wallet,  walked 
up  and  took  his  place  by  one  of  the  fires.  He  announced  him- 
self as  a pilgrim  to  Bhadrinath,  and  said  he  had  previously  visited 
a holy  place  in  Lahore,  whose  name  1 could  not  make  out,  and 
was  last  returned  from  Juggernath  and  Calcutta,  whence  he  had 
intended  to  visit  the  Burman  territories,  but  was  prevented  by 
the  war.  He  was  a native  of  Oude,  but  hoped,  he  said,  before 
he  fixed  himself  again  at  home,  to  see  Bombay  and  Poonah.  I 
asked  him  what  made  him  undertake  such  long  journeys  ? He 
said  he  had  had  a good  and  affectionate  son,  a havildar  in  the 
Company’s  service,  who  always  sent  him  money,  and  had  once 
or  twice  come  to  see  him.  Two  years  back  he  died,  and  left 
him  sixteen  gold  mohurs;  but  since  that  time,  he  said,  he  could 
settle  to  nothing,  and  at  length  he  had  determined  to  go  to  all 
the  most  holy  spots  he  had  heard  of,  and  travel  over  the  world 
till  his  melancholy  legacy  was  exhausted.  1 told  him  I would 
pay  the  goomashta  for  his  dinner  that  day,  on  which  he  thanked 
me,  and  said  “so  many  great  men  had  shown  him  the  same  kind- 
ness, that  he  was  not  yet  in  want,  and  had  never  been  obliged  to 
ask  for  any  thing.”  He  was  very  curious  to  know  who  I was, 
with  so  many  guards  and  servants  in  such  a place ; and  the  name 


400 


PILGRIM. 


of  “ Lord  Padre”  was,  as  usual,  a great  puzzle  to  him.  He  gave 
a very  copious  account  of  his  travels,  the  greater  part  of  which 
I understood  prett}'  well,  and  he  was  much  pleased  by  the 
interest  which  I took  in  his  adventures.  He  remarked  that  Hin- 
dustan was  the  finest  country  and  the  most  plentiful  which  he 
had  seen.  Next  to  that  he  spoke  well  of  Sinde,  where  he  said 
things  were  still  cheaper,  but  the  water  not  so  good.  Lahore, 
Bengal,  and  Orissa,  none  of  them  were  favourites,  nor  did  he 
speak  well  of  Kemaoon.  It  might,  for  all  he  knew,  he  said,  be 
healthy,  but  what  was  that  to  him,  who  was  never  ill  any  where, 
so  be  could  get  bread  and  water  ? There  was  something  flighty 
in  his  manner,  but  on  the  whole  he  was  a fine  old  pilgrim,  and 
one  well  suited  to 

“ Repay  with  many  a tale  the  nightly  bed.” 

A nightly  bed,  indeed,  I had  not  to  offer  him,  but  he  had  as  com- 
fortable a birth  by  the  fire  as  the  sepoys  could  make  him,  and  I 
heard  his  loud  cheerful  voice  telling  stories  after  his  mess  of 
rice  and  ghee,  till  I myself  dropped  asleep. 


401 


CHAPTER  XVHI. 

ALMORAH  TO  MEERUT. 

TREES  USED  AS  GALLOWS BHOOTEAHS KEMAOON  SUBJECT  TO  EARTH- 
QUAKES  HAVELBAGH VEGETATION  IN  KEMAOON ANIMALS  AND 

BIRDS WILD  DOGS VISITS  FROM  VAKEEL  AND  PUNDIT COLD  AT 

PRUNY POVERTY  OF  GHURWALI KOOSILLA  RIVER DESCRIPTION  OF 

OKUL  DOONGA PILLIBHEET  RICE EMETIC  PROPERTY  OF  WILD  TEA 

GHORKHA  BOY^ MANNER  OF  CATCHING  FISH CASAIPOOR WOMEN 

SPINNING WHITE  BUFFALO SUGAR  MILL IMPERIAL  TREE MORA- 

DABAD MAKING  ICE YOGIS  AND  TIGERS CANES  SET  ON  FIRE  BY 

FRICTION PARTY  OF  SUPPOSED  BIIEELS THUGS. 

November  27. — As  we  had  to  climb  the  eastern  side  of  so 
steep  a hill  as  that  on  which  Almorah  stands,  I conceived  that  the 
sun  might  possibly  be  troublesome,  and  started  a little  earlier 
than  I had  done  the  two  preceding  days ; we  descended  into  a 
valley  with  a very  rapid  river,  the  Koosilla,  running  through  it, 
over  a rugged  and  stony  bottom.  The  abutments  of  a bridge 
w^hich  had,  as  usual,  lost  its  arch,  and  had  only  its  slack  rope, 
pointed  out  the  place  where  we  were  to  cross  by  rather  a diffi- 
cult ford.  One  of  my  followers,  a poor  Pariah  dog,  who  had  come 
with  us  all  the  way  from  Bareilly  for  the  sake  of  the  scraps  which 
I had  ordered  the  cook  to  give  him,  and  by  the  sort  of  instinct 
which  most  dogs  possess,  always  attached  himself  to  me  as  the 
head  of  the  party,  was  so  alarmed  at  the  blackness  and  roaring 
of  the  water  that  he  sate  down  on  the  brink  and  howled  pitifully 
when  he  saw  me  going  over.  When  he  found  it  was  a hopeless 
case,  however,  he  mustered  courage  and  followed.  But  on 
reaching  the  other  side,  a new  distress  awaited  him.  One  of  my 
faithful  sepoys  had  lagged  behind  as  w^ell  as  himself,  and  when 
he  found  the  usual  number  of  my  party  not  complete,  he  ran 
back  to  the  brow  of  the  hill  and  howled,  then  hurried  after  me 
as  if  afraid  of  being  himself  left  behind,  then  back  again  to  sum- 
mon the  loiterer,  till  the  man  came  up,  and  he  apprehended  that 
all  was  going  on  in  its  usual  routine.  It  struck  me  forcibly  to  find 
the  same  dog-like  and  amiable  qualities  in  these  neglected  ani- 
mals, as  in  their  more  fortunate  brethren  of  Europe.  The  dog 
had,  before  this,  been  rather  a favourite  with  my  party,  and  this 
will,  I think,  establish  him  in  their  good  graces. 

We  had  two  more  toilsome  ascents,  and  another  deep  and 
black  ford  to  pass  before  we  reached  the  foot  of  the  hill  of 
VoL.  1. — 51 


402 


TREES  USED  AS  GALLOWS. 


Almorah.  The  town  is  approached  by  a very  long  and  steep 
zig-zag  road,  which  a few  resolute  nien  might  defend  against  an 
army.  On  seeing  the  impenetrable  nature  of  this  whole  country, 
one  cannot  help  wondering  how  it  ever  should  have  been  con- 
quered. Its  first  subjection,  however,  by  the  Ghorkhas,  was  in  con- 
sequence of  a disputed  succession,  and  forwarded  by  the  dissensions 
of  the  people  themselves.  Its  recent  conquest  by  the  British  was 
aided  by  the  good-will  of  all  the  natives,  whom  the  cruelty  of  their 
masters  had  disposed  to  take  part  with  any  invader.  The  Khasyas 
in  every  village  lent  their  help,  not  only  as  guides,  but  in  dragging 
our  guns  up  the  hills,  and  giving  every  other  assistance  which 
they  could  supply. 

I was  met  by  Mr.  Traill  about  half  a mile  from  the.  town, 
mounted  on  a little  pony  like  that  which  he  had  sent  me.  We 
rode  together  under  a spreading  toon-tree,  so  like  an  ash  that  I at 
first  mistook  it  for  one.  There  are  four  of  these  trees  in  the  four 
approaches  to  the  town,  one  or  other  of  which  is  the  usual  gal- 
lows, when,  which  happens  rarely,  a capital  execution  takes 
place.  Upder  the  Ghorkhas  all  four  were  kept  in  almost  constant 
employment.  1 have,  indeed,  had  reason  to  find,  from  the  con- 
versation of  my  guides  with  Abdullah,  that  this  province  is  one  of 
the  parts  of  our  Eastern  Empire,  where  the  British  Government 
is  most  popular,  and  where  we  are  still  really  regarded  as  the 
deliverers  of  the  people  from  an  intolerable  tyranny.  I men- 
tioned this  to  Mr.  Traill  during  our  ride.  He  said  that  the 
Ghorkha  government  had,  certainly,  been  very  tyrannical,  less 
from  the  commands  or  inclination  of  the  Court  of  Catmandu,  than 
from  its  want  of  power  to  keep  in  order  the  military  chiefs,  by 
whom  the  conquest  of  the  province  had  been  effected,  and  who 
not  only  had  divided  the  lands  among  themselves,  without  regard 
to  the  rights  of  the  ancient  proprietors,  but,  on  any  arrears  of 
rent,  sold  the  wives  and  children  of  the  peasants  into  slavery,  to 
an  amount  which  was  almost  incredible,  punishing  at  the  same 
time,  with  barbarous  severity,  every  appearance  of  mutiny  or 
discontent  which  these  horrible  proceedings  excited.  He  said 
that,  at  the  present  moment,  hardly  any  young  persons  were  to 
be  found  through  the  country  who,  during  the  Ghorkha  govern- 
ment, had  been  of  a marketable  age.  Children  there  were,  in 
plenty,  but  only  such  as  had  been  born  shortly  before,  or  since 
the  transfer  of  the  dominion  to  the  British.  The  Court  of  Cat- 
mandu sent  repeated  edicts  against  the  practice,  which  Was  in  a 
fair  way  to  extirpate  their  new  subjects.  But  all  which  they  did, 
or  thought  it  necessary  to  do,  was  of  no  avail,  and  the  country 
was  at  the  very  lowest  ebb  of  misery,  when,  happily  for  its  sur- 
viving inhabitants,  the  Ghorkhas  took  it  into  their  heads  to 
quarrel  with  the  English. 


BHOOTEAHS. 


403 


Nuiididevi,  the  highest  peak  in  the  world,  is  slated  to  be  no  less 
than  23,689  feet  above  the  sea,  and  four  thousand  feet  and  up- 
wards higher  than  Chimboraza.  Bhadrinath  and  Kedarnath  are 
merely  two  ends  of  the  same  mountain,  its  height  is  22,300  feet. 
The  peak  which  the  chuprassees  called  Meru,  is  properly  Sume- 
ru,  as  distinguished,  by  the  modern  Pundits  at  least,  from  the 
celestial  and  fabulous  one.  It  is  really,  however,  pretty  near  the 
sources  of  the  Ganges,  and  about  23,000  feet  high,  though  the 
three  great  peaks  of  St.  George,  St.  Andrew,  and  St.  Patrick, 
whence  the  Ganges  really  flows,  are  from  this  point  obscured  by 
the  intervening  ridge  of  Kedarnath.  Kedarnath,  Gungothee, 
Sumeru,  and  Nundidevi,  are  all  within  the  British  territory,  and 
Mr.  Traill  has  been  to  the  northward  of  them,  though  the  peaks 
themselves  have  never  been  scaled.  Nundidevi  is,  as  the  crow 
flies,  forty  miles  from  Almorah,  but  following  the  winding  of  the 
only  accessible  road,  it  is  eight  or  nine’  days  march.  Between  it 
and  the  Chinese  frontier,  two  remarkable  races  of  men  are  found, 
the  first  the  Bhooteahs,  a Mongolian  tribe,  worshippers  of  the 
Delai  Lama,  who  are  said  to  be  the  descendants  of  one  of  the 
hordes  who  crossed  the  snowy  mountains  with  Tamerlane ; the 
other,  a savage  race,  who  neither  plough  nor  dig,  but  live  by  the 
chase  and  on  wild  fruits  only.  They  call  themselves  the  original 
inhabitants  of  the  soil,  and  appear  to  be  the  same  people  with 
the  Puharrees  of  Rajmahal.  I saw  some  Bhooteahs  during  my 
stay  at  Almorah,  who  had  come  down  with  a cargo  of  “ chow- 
ries,”  tails  of  the  “yMc,”  or  mountain  ox.  They  arc  a short, 
square  built  people,  with  the  true  Calmuk  countenance  and  eye, 
and  with  the  same  remarkable  cheerfulness  of  character  and  ex- 
pression, by  which  the  Calmuk  tribes  are  in  general  distinguished. 
Their  dress  was  also  completely  Tartar,  large  boots  with  their 
trowsers  stufled  into  them,  caftans  girded  round  the  waist,  and 
little  bonnets  edged  with  black  sheep’s  skin. 

Beyond  them  is  the  Chinese  frontier,  strictly  guarded  by  the 
jealous  care  of  that  government.  Mr.  Moorcroft  did,  indeed,  pass 
it  some  years  ago,  and  was  kindly  received  by  one  of  the  provin- 
cial Governors,  but  the  poor  man  was  thrown  into  prison  and 
died  there,  as  a punishment  for  his  hospitality,  and,  since,  nobody 
has  been  allowed  to  go  beyond  the  frontier  village.  When  Mr. 
Traill  visited  it  they  showed  him  great  respect  and  attention ; 
brought  him  fire-wood,  milk,  eggs,  earthen  vessels,  and  would 
receive  no  payment;  but  on  his  mounting  his  horse  to  push  on  a 
little  further,  he  was  immediately  surrounded  and  brought  back, 
though  in  the  civilest  manner,  by  the  Tartar  horsemen,  who 
pleaded  the  positive  orders  of  the  emperor.  To  the  north,  how- 
ever, the  small  independent  Tartar  kingdom  of  Ladak  has  shown 
itself  exceedingly  hospitable  and  friendly.  Mr.  Moorcroft,  when 


404 


ALMORA. 


he  was  there,  was  treated  with  unbounded  kindness  and  confidence, 
and  their  Khan  has  since  sent  a formal  offer,  which  I am  sorry 
was  declined,  of  his  allegiance  to  the  British  Government. 

To  return  from  this  digression.  I found  Almorah  a small  but 
very  curious  and  interesting  town.  It  chiefly  consists  of  one  long 
street,  running  along  the  ridge  of  the  mountain  from  the  fort  west- 
ward to  a small  block-house  eastward,  with  scattered  bungalows, 
chiefly  inhabited  by  Europeans,  to  the  right  and  left  hand  on  the 
descent  of  the  hill.  The  main-street  has  a gate  at  each  end,  and, 
' on  a small  scale,  put  me  in  mind  of  Chester.  The  houses  all 
stand  on  a lower  story  of  stone,  open  to  the  street,  with  strong 
square  pillars,  where  the  shops  are,  looking  like  son^e  of  the  rows. 
Above  the  buildings  are  of  timber,  exactly  like  those  of  Chester, 
in  one  or  sometimes  two  very  low  stories,  and  surmounted  by  a 
sloping  roof  of  heavy  gray  slate,  on  which  many  of  the  inhabitants 
pile  up  their  hay  in  small  stacks  for  winter  consumption.  The 
town  is  very  neat,  the  street  has  a natural  pavement  of  slaty  rock 
which  is  kept  beautifully  clean : the  stone  part  of  the  houses  is 
well  white-washed,  and  adorned  with  queer  little  paintings ; and 
the  tradesmen  are  not  only  a fairer  but  a much  more  respectable 
looking  race  than  1 had  expected  to  see,  from  the  filth  and  poverty 
of  the  agricultural  Khasyas. 

We  passed  two  or  three  little  old  pagodas  and  tanks,  as  well  as 
a Mussulman  burial-ground.  The  Mussulmans  were  treated  with 
great  rigour  here  during  the  Ghorkha  government.  They  are  now 
fully  tolerated  and  protected,  but  their  numbers  are  very  small. 
Government,  on  the  conquest  of  Almorah,  very  liberally  built  a 
number  of  small  bungalows  in  airy  situations  round  it,  for  the 
accommodation,  gratis,  of  any  of  their  civil  or  military  servants, 
who  might  come  to  reside  here  for  their  health.  They  are  small 
low  cottages  of  stone  with  slated  roofs,  and  look  extremely  like 
the  sea-bathing  cottages  on  the  Welch  coast,  having  thick  walls, 
small  windows,  low  rooms,  and  all  the  other  peculiarities  (most 
different  from  the  generality  of  Anglo-Indian  houses)  w^hich  suit  a 
boisterous  and  cold  climate.  Yet,  in  summer,  the  heat  is  con- 
siderable, and  the  vallies  very  far  from  wholesome,  being,  some 
of  them,  indeed  only  a shade  better  than  Tandah,  and  the  rest  of 
the  Terrai.  On  the  hill  tops,  however,  there  is  always  a fine 
breeze,  and,  even  in  May  and  June,  the  nights  are  chilly. 

There  is  another  reason  why  the  bungalows  of  this  country  are 
built  low.  Kemaoon  is  extremely  subject  to  earthquakes  ; scarce- 
ly a year  passes  without  a shake  or  two,  and  though  all  have  been 
slight  since  the  English  came,  it  would  not  be  wise  to  build  upper 
roomed  houses,  unless,  like  the  natives,  they  made  the  super- 
structure of  timber.  In  the  best  of  these  bungalows  1 found  Mr. 
Adams,  who  received  me  most  hospitably.  He  introduced  me  to 


flAVELBAGH, 


405 


Sir  Robert  Colquhoun,  the  Commandant  of  the  local  troops  of 
Kemaoon,  who  invited  me  to  accompany  Mr.  Adams  and  himself, 
on  Monday,  to  his  house  at  Havelbagh,  where  the  native  lines 
are,  and  where  Mr.  Adams  is  residing  at  present,  as  being  a milder 
climate  than  that  of  Almorah,  Mr.  Adams  had  a party  to  dine  in 
the  evening,  and  I found  that  almost  all  the  civil  and  military  offi- 
cers here  were  Scotch. 

Sunday^  November  28.— This  day  I enjoyed  the  gratification  of 
being  the  first  Protestant  Minister  who  had  preached  and  ad- 
ministered the  sacraments  in  so  remote,  yet  so  celebrated,  a region. 

1 had  a very  respectable  congregation  of,  I believe,  all  the  Chris- 
tian inhabitants  of  Almorah  and  Havelbagh.  Mr.  Adams  allowed 
me  to  make  use  of  the  two  principal  rooms  in  his  house,  wffiich, 
by  the  help  of  the  folding-doors  between  them,  accommodated 
thirty  or  thirty-five  persons  with  ease.  I was,  after  service,  intro- 
duced to  Lady  Colquhoun,  who  is  celebrated  in  the  province  as 
a bold  rider  along  the  mountain  paths.  I was  also  introduced  to 
Captain  Herbert,  who  has  the  situation  of  geologist  in  this  pro- 
vince, and  who  seems  a very  well-informed,  as  he  is  a very 
pleasing  and  unassuming  man.  He  and  Sir  Robert  Colquhoun 
were  just  returned  from  a scientific  expedition  to  the  eastern 
frontier,  and  gave  an  interesting  account  of  the  Ghorkha  troops 
there,  whom  they  described,  as  they  have  been  generally  repre- 
sented, as  among  the  smartest  and  most  European-like  soldiery 
of  India.  We  had  family  prayers. 

I forgot  to  mention  that,  during  this  day,  1 walked  up  to  the 
fort  of  Almorah,  a very  paltry  thing,  so  ill  contrived  as  to  be  liable 
to  an  escalade  from  any  daring  enemy,  and  so  ill  situated  as  to  be 
commanded  from  two  points  of  land  on  opposite  sides,  and  not  to 
have  a drop  of  water  within  its  walls.  It  is  out  of  repair  already, 
and  certainly  not  worth  mending. 

November  29. — I went  down  this  morning  to  breakfast,  and  to 
remain,  during  the  rest  of  my  stay  in  Kemaoon,  at  Sir  Robert 
Colquhoun’s,  at  Havelbagh,  by  a steep  and  winding,  but  firm  and 
safe  road,  carried  down  the  northern  side  of  the  mountain  of  Al- 
morah, into  a larger  valley  than  I had  yet  seen  in  Kemaoon,  where 
are  lines  for  the  provincial  troops,  and  several  bungalows  for  the 
civil  officers.  The  situation  is  very  pretty,  and  indeed  fine.  At 
a considerable  depth  below  the  houses,  through  a narrow  rocky 
glen,  the  deep  black  Koosilla  runs  with  much  violence,  crossed 
by  one  of  those  suspension-bridges  of  branches  and  ropes  made 
of  grass,  which  have  been,  from  considerable  antiquity,  common 
in  these  mountains,  and  appear  to  have  given  the  original  hint 
both  to  the  chain-bridges  of  Europe,  and  those  which  Mr.  Shake- 
spear  has  invented.  The  situation  is  striking,  and  the  picturesque 
effect  extremely  good,  but  the  bridge  at  present  so  much  out  of 


406 


HAVELBAGH. 


repair,  (a  great  many  of  the  branches  which  compose  its  road- 
way being  broken  or  decayed,)  that  I did  not  care  to  trust  myself 
on  it,  particularly  as  1 could  not  stand  or  cling  so  securely  as  the 
bare-footed  natives  of  the  country,  on  broken  and  detached  pieces 
of  wood.  I saw,  however,  one  of  the  Khasyahs  pass  it,  but  with 
some  apparent  difficulty,  and  Mr.  Traill  talked  of  having  it  taken 
down  to  prevent  accidents.  During  the  dry  season  the  river  is 
fordable,  and  by  persons  on  foot  passed  easily  enough.  On  horse- 
back, as  I had  occasion  to  find  some  days  after,  it  is  by  no  means 
a good  ford,  and  none  but  mountain  ponies  could  keep  their  legs 
on  a bottom  so  uneven  and  rocky. 

Havelbagh  is  probably  2500  feet  lower  than  Almorah,  and,  in 
summer,  many  of  the  vegetables  of  hot  climates  flourish  here 
extremely  well.  The  sugar-cane,  however,  does  not  thrive  suffi- 
ciently to  yield  sugar,  but  plantains  and  mangoes  come  to  some 
perfection.  It  is  remarkable,  that  though  the  summer  is  much 
hotter,  there  is,  in  winter,  more  and  harder  frost  here  than  at 
Almorah.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  snowy  mountains,  the 
vegetation,  as  much  of  it  as  exists,  is  nearly  approaching  to  that 
of  Europe.  Raspberries,  blackberries,  cranberries,  and  bilberries, 
are  found  in  considerable  numbers.  The  birch  and  willow  here, 
as  in  Norway,  are  the  latest  trees  which  show  themselves  to  per- 
sons ascending  the  hills  ; but  the  sides  and  lower  ravines  of  their 
feet  are  covered  with  noble  silver-fir.  But  few  cedars  are  now 
found  in  the  province ; tradition  describes  them  as  having  been 
once  very  numerous,  and  as. having  been  destroyed  owing  to  their 
value  as  building  materials,  a fact  wffiich  seems  attested  by  the 
circumstance  that  all  the  beams  in  the  old  Raja’s  palace  at  Almo- 
rah, when  that  was  taken  down  to  make  room  for  the  fort,  vvere 
found  to  be  of  cedar.  In  the  present  forests,  fir  is  the  prevailing 
timber,  but,  except  the  silver-firs  already  spoken  of,  of  a very  bad 
and  worthless,  though  tall  and  stately  kind.  Great  devastations 
are  generally  made  in  these  woods,  partly  by  the  increase  of 
population,  building,  and  agriculture,  partly  by  the  wasteful  habits 
of  travellers,  who  cut  down  multitudes  of  young  trees  to  make 
temporary  huts,  and  for  fuel,  while  the  cattle  and  goats  which 
browse  on  the  mountains  prevent  a great  part  of  the  seedlings 
from  rising.  Unless  some  precautions  are  taken,  the  inhabited 
parts  of  Kemaoon  will  soon  be  wretchedly  bare  of  wood,  and  the 
country,  already  too  arid,  will  not  only  lose  its  beauty,  but  its 
small  space  of  fertility.  Of  the  inhabitants  every  body  seems  to 
speak  well.  They  are,  indeed,  dirty  to  a degree  which  I never 
saw  among  Hindoos,  and  extremely  averse  to  any  improvement 
in  their  rude  and  inefficient  agriculture,  but  they  are  honest, 
peaceable,  and  cheerful,  and,  in  the  species  of  labour  to  which 
they  are  accustomed,  extremely  diligent.  There  are  hardly 


iNATIVE  BIRDS. 


40? 


twelve  convicts  now  in  the  gaol  of  Almorah  ; and  the  great  ma- 
jority of  cases  which  come  before  Mr.  Traill  are  trifling  affrays, 
arising  from  disputed  boundaries,  trespass,  and  quarrels  at  fair 
and  market.  The  only  serious  public  cases  which  are  at  all 
prevalent,  are  adultery,  and,  sometimes,  carrying  ofT  women  to 
marry  them  forcibly.  They  use  their  women  ill,  and  employ 
them  in  the  most  laborious  tasks,  in  which,  indeed,  a wife  is 
regarded  by  the  Khasya  peasant  as  one  of  the  most  laborious  and 
valuable  of  his  domestic  animals.  These  people,  though  rigid 
Hindoos,  are  not  so  inhospitable  as  their  brethren  of  the  plain. 
Even  Europeans  travelling  through  the  country,  who  will  put  up 
with  such  accommodations  as  the  peasantry  have  to  offer,  are 
almost  sure  of  being  well  received,  and  have  no  need  of  carrying 
tents  with  them,  provided  their  journey  is  made  at  a time  when 
the  peasantry  are  at  home  to  receive  them,  and  not  during  the 
annual  emigration  to  the  plains.  The  population  of  Kemaoon 
amounts  to  about  300,000 ; that  of  Ghurwal,  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Alacananda,  is  yet  more  considerable,  and  the  people  in  a 
higher  state  of  civilization  and  intelligence.  Of  this  latter  pro- 
vince only  a small  part  constitutes  the  “ reserved  dominion  of  the 
Raja  of  Kemaoon.”  The  capital  of  his  little  territory  is  called 
Dera.  He  is  described  as  a mild  tempered  man,  but  a careless 
governor,  and  too  fond  of  money. 

There  are  larks  in  Kemaoon  of  a sort  not  very  different  from 
the  English,  as  well  as  quails,  partridges,  and  pheasants.  The 
thrush  is,  as  I have  mentioned,  black.  A little  bird,  whose  note 
nearly  resembles  that  of  a robin,  is  black  and  red ; and  there  is 
no  singing  bird  here  exactly  answering  to  any  in  Europe,  except 
the  goldfinch,  which  is  found  at  the  foot  of  the  snowy  mountains. 
Eagles  are  numerous,  and  very  large  and  formidable,  and,  as  their 
nests  are  high  up  in  inaccessible  crags,  and  amid  the  glaciers,  it 
is  not  easy  to  abate  the  nuisance.  They  do  much  injury  to  the 
shepherds  and  goatherds,  and  sometimes  carry  away  the  poor 
naked  children  of  the  peasants. 

Of. wild  quadrupeds,  besides  those  which  I have  mentioned  in 
my  journal  of  the  way  up  the  hills,  there  are  hares,  much  larger 
and  finer  than  in  Hindustan  or  Bengal,  and  not  inferior  to  those 
of  Europe.  The  chamois  is  not  uncommon  in  the  snowy  moun- 
tains, but  scarce  elsewhere.  There  are  also  lynxes,  and  bears 
are  common  and  mischievous  throughout  the  province.  Though 
they  do  not,  except  when  pressed  by  hunger,  eat  flesh,  preferring 
roots,  berries,  and  honey,  they,  as  if  out  of  capricious  cruelty, 
often  worry  and  destroy  a passenger.  They  are  said  particularly 
to  attack  women,  a peculiarity  which  has  been  remarked  in  the 
hear  in  other  countries,  and  which  is  one  of  the  many  presump- 
tions that  they  belong  to  the  same  class  of  animals  with  the 


408 


NAtlYE  ANIMALS. 


baboon  and  oran-outang.  The  musk-deer  is  only  found  in  the 
highest  and  coldest  parts  of  the  province,  and  the  neighbouring 
countries  of  Thibet  and  Tartary.  It  cannot  bear  even  the  heat  of 
Almorah.  The  same  observation  applies  to  the  yak  ; they  droop 
as  soon  as  they  leave  the  neighbourhood  of  the  ice.  The  shawl- 
goat  will  live,  but  its  wool  soon  degenerates,  a very  unfavourable 
presumption  as  to  the  event  of  the  experiment  of  colonizing  them 
in  Europe,  which  has  been  tried  in  France  on  so  large  a scale. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  animals  of  the  south  seem  to  do  very  well 
among  the  snow.  English  dogs,  impaired  by  the  climate  of  the 
plains, improve  in  strength, size, andsagacity,amongtheBhooteahs; 
and,  what  is  very  remarkable,  in  a winter  or  two  they  acquire 
the  same  fine,  short  shawl-wool,  mixed  up  with  their  own  hair, 
which  distinguishes  the  indigenous  animals  of  the  country.  The 
same  is,  in  a considerable  degree,  the  case  with  horses  : those 
which  the  Bhooteahs  bring  down  for  sale  are  very  beautiful,  though 
rather  shaggy  little  creatures,  resembling  extremely  the  Siberian 
ponies  which  I saw  in  Petersburg.  The  tiger  is  found  quite  up 
to  the  glaciers,  of  size  and  ferocity  undiminished,  but  I could  not 
learn  whether  he  has  shawl-wool  or  no.  The  fact  of  his  hardi- 
ness, however,  proves  sufficiently  that  he,  the  lion,  and  the  hyasna, 
(which  is  also  common  here,)  may  have  lived  in  England  and 
France  without  any  such  change  of  climate  as  my  friend  Mr. 
Buckland  supposes  to  have  taken  place.  Another  instance  fell 
under  my  knowledge  of  how  much  the  poor  hyaena  is  wronged, 
when  he  is  described  as  untameable.  Mr.  Traill  had  one  several 
years,  which  followed  him  about  like  a dog,  and  fawned  on  those 
with  whom  he  was  acquainted  in  almost  the  same  manner.  Mr. 
Adam,  and  Lady  Colquhoun,  had  each  of  them  beautiful  flying 
squirrels,  which,  they  told  me,  are  not  uncommon  in  the  colder 
and  higher  parts  of  these  woods.  They  w^ere  as  tame  as  squirrels 
usually  are,  and  had  all  the  habits  of  the  European  animal.  They 
were,  however,  a little  larger,  or  perhaps  appeared  so  from  the 
large  folds  of  loose  skin,  covered  with  beautiful  soft  and  thick 
fur,  which,  when  they  pleased,  they  extended  by  stretching  out 
their  hind  and  fore  feet.  Mr.  Traill  had  several  skins  of  chamois 
in  his  possession.  The  animal  seems  nearly  of  the  same  size 
and  colour  with  those  which  I saw,  and  with  the  pictures  of  the 
European  one.  It  is,  however,  I think,  more  shaggy,  and  better 
protected  against  the  cold ; more  like,  in  fact,  a common  goat, 
and  its  horns  seem  larger. 

Small  marmots  of  the  Alpine  kind  abound  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  snow,  but  none  of  the  “ Leming”  or  Lapland  species  that 
I could  hear  of.  If  they  existed,  their  numbers  and  annual  incur- 
sions into  the  cultivated  districts  would,  probably,  soon  make  them 
well  known. 


WILD  DOGS. 


409 


The  rats  of  this  country  are  the  same  with  those  of  India,  and 
are  very  numerous  and  troublesome.  One  of  the  most  curious 
animals  I saw  or  heard  of  was  a wild  dog  belonging  to  Mr.  Adam. 
These  animals  are  considerably  larger  and  stronger  than  a fox, 
which,  in  the  circumstances  of  form  and  fur,  they  much  resemble. 
They  hunt,  however,  in  packs,  give  tongue  like  dogs,  and  possess 
a very  fine  scent.  They  make,  of  course,  tremendous  havoc 
among  the  game  in  these  hills ; but  that  mischief  they  are  said 
amply  to  repay  by  destroying  wild  beasts,  and  even  tigers.  This 
assertion  was  at  first  made,  at  least  in  print,  in  Captain  William- 
son’s Field-sports  of  India,  but  obtained  very  little  credit.  None 
of  my  Kemaoon  friends,  however,  doubted  the  fact,  which,  they 
said,  was  the  universal  belief  of  the  Khasya  peasants,  and  was 
corroborated  by  the  fact  of  tigers  having  been  found  lately  killed 
and  torn  in  pieces,  which  could  be  ascribed  to  no  other  enemy. 
Mr.  Traill  did  not,  indeed,  suppose  that  they  would  actually 
chase  a tiger  by  preference,  but  that  if,  in  the  pursuit  of  other 
game,  they  fall  in  with  either  tiger  or  lion,  they  had  both  the 
power  and  the  will,  from  their  numbers,  swiftness,  courage,  and 
ferocity,  to  rush  in  on  him  and  tear  him  in  pieces,  before  he  would 
have  time  to  strike  more  than  one  or  two  blows  wuth  his  tremen- 
dous paws.  Each  of  these  would  no  doubt  kill  a dog,  but  in  the 
meantime  a hundred  others  would  be  at  his  throat,  his  back,  and 
sides,  and  he  would  sink  under  the  multitude  of  his  comparatively 
feeble  enemies.  Mr.  Adam’s  dog  was  exceedingly  wild  and 
fierce.  He  was  brought  for  me  to  see  him,  led  by  two  men,  who 
held  him  between  them  in  a long  chain,  and  he  struggled  despe- 
rately all  the  time  to  recover  his  liberty.  He  has  begun  to  endure, 
with  somewhat  more  placability,  the  presence  of  the  man  who 
feeds  him,  but  is  at  present  wilder,  I think,  than  any  fox  I ever 
saw,  who  had  been  so  much  as  two  months  in  captivity.  If  he 
were  domesticated,  I could  conceive  his  being  a fine  and  valuable 
animal.  Of  dogs  he  bears  the  strongest  resemblance  to  those  of 
the  Esquimaux  and  Kamtchadales,  as  represented  in  Bewick’s 
engravings. 

I had  two  native  visiters  during  my  stay  at  Havelbagh.  One 
was  a vakeel  from  the  Ghorkhali  Government,  who  is  now^  re- 
siding in  Kemaoon,  and  begged  to  pay  his  respects.  He  was  a 
little,  stout,  square-built  man,  with  a true  Calmuk  countenance, 
figure,  and  complexion,  the  latter  being  considerably  fairer  than 
those  of  Hindustan.  He  had  an  intelligent  eye  and  frank,  lively 
manner,  but  my  conversation  with  him  was  necessarily  very  limit- 
ed. He  brought  some  musk,  in  its  form  when  first  taken  from  the 
animal,  as  a present;  and  I invested  him  with  a shawl,  with  which 
the  kindness  of  Mr.  Traill  supplied  me,  as  usual  on  such  occasions, 
from  the  Government  storehouse.  I had  the  satisfaction  to  learn 

VoL.  I. — 52 


410 


VISIT  FROM  A PUNDIT. 


that  he  was  much  pleased  with  his  visit  and  the  little  I was  able 
to  say  to  him.  My  second  visitant  was  the  Pundit  of  the  Criminal 
Court  of  Kemaoon,  a learned  brahmin,  and  a great  astrologer. 
He  had  professed  to  Mr.  Traill  a desire  to  see  me,  and  asked  rf 
I were  as  well  informed  in  the  Vedas,  Puranas,  and  other  sacred 
books  of  the  Hindoos,  as  another  European  Pundit  whom  he  had 
heard  preach  some  years  before  at  the  great  fair  of  Plurdwar?  He 
evidently  meant  the  Baptist  Missionary,  Mr.  Chamberiayne ; and 
it  pleased  me  to  find  that  this  good  and  able,  though  bigoted  man, 
had  left  a favourable  impression  behind  him  among  his  auditors. 
Mr.  Traill  told  him  that  I had  been  only  a short  time  in  the 
country ; but  he  was  still  anxious  to  see  me,  and  I regretted  much 
to  find,  when  we  met,  that  his  utterance  was  so  rapid  and  indis- 
tinct that  I could  understand  less  of  his  conversation  than  of  most 
Hindoos  whom  I have  met  wdth.  He  explained  to  me,  however, 
that  three  or  four  years  before  the  British  conquered  Kemaoon 
he  had,  through  his  acquaintance  with  the  stars,  foretold  the  event, 
and  that  his  calculation,  signed  and  dated,  was  lodged  with  the 
Raja  at  Derea.  He  said  he  had  now  discovered  three  new  stars, 
in  the  shape  of  a triangle,  south-east  of  the  great  bear,  which,  by 
their  position,  assured  the  north  an  ascendancy  over  the  east,  and 
implied  that  we  should  triumph  in  our  present  struggle  with  the 
Birman  empire.  I asked  him  some  questions  about  the  form  of 
the  earth,  the  source  of  the  Ganges,  the  situation  of  mount  Meru, 
and  received  better  answers  than  I expected.  He  said  that,  in 
old  times,  the  Ganges  was  supposed  to  rise  from  mount  Meru,  but 
that  modern  Hindoos,  at  least  the  enlightened,  gave  the  name  of 
Meru  to  the  North  Pole,  and  were  aware  that  Gunga  rose  from 
the  peaks,  one  of  which  I had  seen  above  Gungotree,  and  south 
of  the  great  snowy  range,  which  he  called,  not  Himalaya,  but 
Himmachund.  He  laughed  at  the  fancy  of  the  elephant  and  tor- 
toise, whom  the  Pundits  of  Benares  placed  as  supporters  to  the 
earth,  and  said  it  was  a part  of  the  same  system  with  that  which 
made  the  earth  flat,  and  girded  in  by  six  other  worlds,  each  having 
its  own  ocean.  I drew  a diagram  of  the  world  with  its  circles, 
&c.  and  he  recognized  them  with  great  delight,  showing  me  the 
sun’s  path  along  the  ecliptic,  tie  expressed  a great  desire  to  learn 
more  of  the  European  discoveries  in  astronomy  and  geography, 
and  listened  with  much  attention  to  my  account  (in  which  I fre- 
quently had  recourse  to  Mr.  Traill  as  interpreter)  of  the  Coper- 
nican  system,  and  the  relative  situations  of  England,  Russia, 
Turkey,  Persia,  Arabia,  and  India.  He  asked  if  we  had  yet  dis- 
covered the  shorter  way  to  India  through  the  ice  of  the  North 
Pole,  of  which,  he  said,  he  had  heard  from  a brahmin  of  Benares, 
who  had  his  account  from  Colonel  Wilford : and  he  knew  America 
under  the  name  of  ‘Ghe  New  World,”  and  as  one  of  the  proofs 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  TRAVELLING.  4H 

that  the  earth  was  round.  He  was  very  anxious  to  obtain  any 
Hindoo  books  containing  the  improved  system  of  astronomy  and 

geography ; and  complained  that  Dr.  H , when  in  Kemaoon, 

had  promised  to  send  him  some,  but  had  forgotten  it.  He  is 
evidently  a man  of  considerable  talent,  and  extremely  desirous  to 
improve  whatever  opportunities  of  knowledge  fall  in  his  way;  arid, 
like  all  these  mountaineers,  he  is  of  a lively  cheerful  turn,  without 
any  of  the  crouching  manner  and  flattering  address  which  is  ap- 
parent in  most  of  the  Hindoos  of  Calcutta  and  Benares. 

It  is  pleasing  to  see  on  how  apparent  good  terms  Mr.  Traill  is 
with  all  these  people.  Their  manner  in  talking  to  him  is  erect, 
open,  and  cheerful,  like  persons  who  are  addressing  a superior 
whom  they  love,  arid  with  whom  they  are  in  habits  of  easy,  though 
respectful  intercourse.  He  says  he  loves  the  country  and  people 
where  he  has  been  thrown,  and  has  declined,  as  Sir  Robert  Col- 
quhoun  told  me,  several  situations  of  much  greater  emolument 
for  the  sake  of  remaining  with  them.  He  has  probably,  indeed, 
chosen  wisely,  since,  though  he  may  not  return  home  so  rich  a 
man,  he  is  far  more  likely  to  take  with  him  the  power  of  enjoying 
life  and  property.  Almost  the  whole  of  the  dry  season  he  is 
travelling  about  in  the  discharge  of  his  official  duty,  and  it  was  a 
mere  chance  which  gave  me  the  advantage  of  meeting  him  now 
at  Almorah. 

December  2. — I set  out  early  this  morning  in  company  with  Sir 
Robert  and  Lady  Colquhoun  for  Chilkeah.  Mr.  Traill  had  lent  me 
a couple  of  tents  for  this  journey,  which,  with  a good  deal  of  my 
heavier  baggage,  had  been  sent  on  the  day  before.  A still  greater 
number  of  coolies  were  necessary  than  in  my  ascent  from  Ba- 
moury,  partly  on  account  of  some  presents  of  honey,  &c.  which 
I had  received,  and  which  required  to  be  carried,  like  the  rest, 
bn  men’s  heads  ; partly  because,  from  the  wild  and  uninhabited 
character  of  some  part  of  the  country  which  we  were  to  traverse, 
it  was  necessary  to  give  up  two  mules  for  the  transport  of  the 
provisions  and  necessaries  of  the  coolies  themselves.  We  had  a 
good  deal  of  plague  and  trouble  in  dividing  the  loads  to  be  carried 
by  each  man,  and  were  harassed  by  pitiful  complaints,  from  almost 
all,  of  their  inability  to  go  through  such  an  expedition,  and  by  their 
entreaties  to  be  left  behind.  It  seems  singular  that,  among  so 
poor  a people,  with  whom  a job  of  work  might  at  first  seem  no 
trifling  object,  this  reluctance  should  exist,  since  the  rates  at  which, 
according  to  the  regulations  of  Government,  their  labour  is  repaid 
on  these  occasions,  being  arranged  at  two  anas  for  each  march, 
with  a similar  sum  for  their  return  home,  exceeds  the  average 
rate  of  agricultural  labour  through  India,  and  is  much  above  any 
thing  which  they  were  likely  to  have  earned  at  home.  Yet  so  it 
is,  that  they  are  always  pressed  to  this  service;  that  they  almost 


412 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  TRAVELLING. 


always  endeavour  to  excuse  themselves;  that  they  are  apt  to 
desert  the  first  opportunity,  even  to  the  forfeiture  of  their  legal 
hire ; and,  which  tells  well  for  their  honesty  at  least,  that,  when 
any  suspicion  exists  that  they  feel  peculiar  reluctance,  no  way  is 
found  so  efficacious  to  keep  them  as  to  pay  them  their  money  in 
advance.  I can  understand  their  aversion  to  this  employment 
during  the  rainy  season,  when  it  is  really  at  the  risk  of  life  that 
people  descend  into  the  Terrai,  or  the  lower  vallies  of  this  pro- 
vince. But  at  present,  though  they  may  encounter  hardship  and 
fatigue,  there  is,  literally,  no  danger;  and  I can  only  account  for 
their  reluctance,  by  supposing  that  as  yet  there  exists  in  Kemaoon 
no  sufficient  occupation  for  coolies  to  induce  any  number  of  men 
to  addict  themselves  to  this  pursuit  alone,  and  that  other  peasants 
feel  unwilling  to  separate  from  their  families,  and  desert  their 
usual  routine  of  industry  for  an  uncertain  and  fatiguing,  though 
profitable  employment. 

F rom  this  cause,  or  from  carelessness  or  corruption  on  the  part 
of  Mr.  Traill’s  chuprassees,  many  of  the  men  whom  they  had 
levied  were  found  quite  unfit  for  the  journey  now  before  us. 
Three  were  sent  hack  as  being  poor  old  creatures  who  could 
hardly  carry  themselves,  without  any  additional  burthen,  and  four 
were  boys  whom  I should  have  also  rejected,  if  it  had  not  appear- 
ed that  they,  of  all  the  party,  were  almost  the  only  willing  recruits ; 
that  there  were  necessarily  some  light  packages  which  a boy  might 
easily  carry;  and  if  I had  not  apprehended  that,  if  we  lost  these 
coolies,  w^e  might  possibly  find  much  difficulty  in  getting  others 
in  their  room.  As  it  was,  the  party  set  out  so  late  that  they  soon 
found  it  impossible  for  loaded  mules  to  travel  such  roads  by  such 
scanty  light,  and  we  overtook  them  little  more  than  half  way, 
under  some  rocks,  where  they  had  been  obliged  to  lodge  for  the 
night.  In  the  midst  of  these  movements  one  of  our  party  was' 
left  behind,  for  whom  I was  sincerely  sorry.  I mean  the  poor 
Pariah  dog.  He  had  been  taking  a lively  interest,  like  the  rest  of 
his  species,  in  the  packing  up  the  day  before;  and  I found  him  in 
the  morning  in  his  usual  post,  as  if  ready  to  attend  me.  I missed 
him  when  we  had  gone  on  about  a coss,  but  even  then  made  no 
doubt  of  his  following  with  the  servants.  He  did  not  come,  how- 
ever, and  I suspect  that  his  courage  failed  him  at  the  first  ford 
w'hich  lay  in  our  way,  near  the  suspension-bridge,  and  which  was, 
indeed,  a formidable  one. 

Our  road  was  very  wild  and  rugged,  by  the  sides  and  over  the 
ridges  of  craggy  mountains  covered  wfith  Scotch  firs,  and  bypaths 
in  which  pone  but  mountain  ponies,  who  go  almost  any  where 
that  a dog  can  go,  would  have  been  able  to  keep  their  legs.  I 
observed  that  our  little  coursers,  on  arriving  at  a difficult  place, 
always  looked  round  to  see  if  there  were  any  easier  track,  and  if 


PRUNY. 


413 


there  were,  pulled  hard  to  get  at  it ; that  if  this  were  not  the  case, 
they  often,  particularly  in  case  of  a deep  descent,  stood  pawing 
with  their  fore-feet  some  time,  as  if  to  satisfy  themselves  of  its 
practicability,  and  if  they  had  doubts,  usually  stood  stock  still  and 
refused  to  go  any  further,  under  which  circumstances  it  was  al- 
ways wise  to  dismount.  These  places,  however,  did  not  occur 
very  often,  though  there  were  more  than  one  which  they  went  up 
and  down  without  hesitation,  which  I could  compare  to  nothing 
but  the  broken  stair-case  of  a ruined  castle. 

We  encamped  near  a village  named  Pruny,  on  a beautiful  piece 
of  rocky  pasture-ground,  situated  between  the  two  peaks  of  a 
lofty  mountain,  and  surrounded  on  every  side  by  a forest  of  fir 
and  cedar-trees.  At  a little  distance  from  our  tents,  some  people 
who  had  been  sent  on  by  Mr.  Traill  to  prepare  the  Zemindars  to 
afford  the  necessary  supplies,  had  constructed  a sort  of  bower  or 
wigwam  of  pine  branches  for  the  use  of  our  followers.  Nothing 
could  be  ruder  than  these  leafy  screens ; but  with  plenty  of  straw, 
a blazing  fire,  and  sheltered  situation,  they  seemed  to  satisfy  our 
people  ; nor  could  I help  noticing  that,  though  we  were  now  6000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  it  was  freezing  in  the  shade 
almost  all  day,  the  sepoys,  soon  after  their  arrival,  stripped  off  all 
their  clothes  but  their  waist-clothes,  went  to  wash  themselves  as 
usual  in  the  brook,  and  remained  naked  all  day  till  the  sun  was 
actually  setting ; so  little  reason  have  we  for  accusing  these  peo- 
ple of  effeminacy  or  softness,  even  in  circumstances  most  at  va- 
riance with  their  general  habits  and  sensations.  I myself,  though 
I had  a good  blanket,  quilt,  and  cloak,  was  so  cold  at  night  that  I 
could  hardly  sleep.  My  tent,  indeed,  was  small  and  thin,  and 
scarcely  afforded  more  shelter  than  the  pine-boughs,  with  the  dis- 
advantage of  having  no  fire  and  no  neighbours  to  keep  me  warm. 
The  water  in  the  basin  was  frozen  as  hard  and  thick  as  it  might 
have  been,  under  similar  circumstances,  in  England,  to  the  great 
astonishment  and  delight  of  my  Calcutta  servant,  who  had  never 
^ seen  such  a cake  of  ice  before,  and,  I believe,  sincerely  regretted 
that  he  could  not  carry  it  back  to  Calcutta  as  a curiosity. 

The  reflection  of  the  setting  sun  on  the  snowy  mountains  was 
extremely  beautiful.  One  of  the  peaks  of  Nundidevi  was,  for  a 
considerable  time  together,  a perfect  rose-colour.  We  had  also  a 
magnificent  echo  near  our  encampment,  which  answered  with 
remarkable  distinctness,  and  great  power  and  mellowness,  all  the 
different  light  infantry  signals  on  the  bugle  of  Sir  Robert  Col- 
quhoun’s  rangers,  which  he  had  brought  with  him. 

December  3. — The  name  of  this  day’s  encampment  1 have  for- 
gotten. It  was  also  near  a mountain-top,  on  the  skirt  of  a fine 
fir-wood  and  near  a village,  in  which  we  found,  what  is  not  always 
found  at  this  season,  a considerable  number  of  inhabitants  yet 


414 


HIMALAYA  MOUNTAINS. 


remaining.  Their  bourses  were  all  of  two  stories,  the  lowest  was 
just  high  enough  to  allow  their  diminutive  cows  and  goats  to  shelter 
there ; and  the  upper  one  which  was  of  timber,  with  a sloping 
slate  roof,  was  about  as  high  and  in  the  same  shape  as  an  ordinary 
cottage  garret.  In  front  of  each  cottage  were  some  small  stacks 
of  straws,  while  others  were  perched  on  the  roof,  to  be  more  ef- 
fectually out  of  the  reach  of  the  cattle ; and  all  the  neighbouring 
hill-side  was  built  up  in  narrow  terraces,  and  the  subject  of 
assiduous  cultivation.  The  inside  of  their  houses,  so  well  as  I 
could  distinguish  from  the  door,  was  not  so  dirty  as  the  appear- 
ance of  the  people  would  have  led  me  to  suppose ; and  the  whole 
had  that  sort  of  faint  likeness  of  a Shropshire  cottage  which,  faint 
as  it  was,  was  interesting  to  me.  We  passed  two  fords  in  this 
day’s  march,  the  first  so  bad  and  stony  that  it  was  necessary  to 
unload  the  mules,  and  carry  the  baggage  over  on  men’s  heads. 
There  were  also  more  places  than  one,  where  to  dismount  from 
our  ponies  was  a matter  of  absolute  necessity. 

This  is,  however,  the  most  frequented  road  into  Kemaoon,  as 
leading  from  Cashipoor  and  Chilkeah,  the  two  best  attended 
marts  on  its  frontier ; and  we  passed  every  day,  I think,  above 
100  Khasyas,  all  with  burdens  on  their  heads,  toiling  along  these 
rugged  paths.  In  Kemaoon  the  head  and  neck  seem  the  constant 
vehicles  ; but  the  Ghurwali,  or  inhabitants  of  the  western  district 
of  our  mountain  provinces,  who  are  said  to  be  a more  intelligent 
race  than  their  brethren,  carry  their  burthens  on  the  back,  with  a 
truss  like  that  of  an  English  porter.  They  thus  do  more  work 
with  more  ease  to  themselves.  But  the  adherence  to  “ dustoor,” 
or  some  other  cause,  it  can  hardly  be  povertj^  has  as  yet  kept  the 
Khasyas  from  imitating  them.  Of  the  poverty  of  these  people, 
however,  I had  no  idea  till  I saw  this  day  the  bread  they  eat.  It 
is  the  grain  of  a kind  of  holcus,  and  looks  like  clover-seed : the 
flour,  bran,  husk  and  all,  is  made  into  thick  coarse  cakes,  like 
those  for  elephants,  and  these  are  not  baked  as  the  elephant’s 
bread  is,  but  laid  on  the  fire  and  scorched  or  toasted  there,  so 
that  part  is  raw  dough,  part  ashes.  To  such  a people  potatoes 
must,  indeed,  be  an  exceeding  and  obvious  blessing.  I had  a sin- 
gular instance  this  evening  of  the  fact  how  mere  children  all  sol- 
diers, and  I think  particularly  sepoys,  are  when  put  a little  out  of 
their  usual  way.  On  going  to  the  place  where  my  escort  was 
hutted,  I found  that  there  was  not  room  for  them  all  under  its 
shelter,  and  that  four  were  preparing  to  sleep  on  the  open  field. 
Within  a hundred  yards  stood  another  similar  hut  unoccupied,  a 
little  out  of  repair,  but  tolerably  tenantable.  “ Why  do  you  not 
go  thither?”  was  my  question.  “We  like  to  sleep  altogether,” 
was  their  answer.  “ But  why  not  bring  the  branches  here,  and 
make  your  own  hut  larger?  see,  I will  show  you  the  way.”  They 


CHOUMOKA  DEVI. 


415 


started  up  immediatelj,  in  great  apparent  delight,  every  man 
brought  a bough,  and  the  work  was  done  in  five  minutes,  being 
only  interrupted  every  now  and  then  by  exclamations  of  “ Good, 
good, poor  man’s  provider!” 

The  night  was  again  cold,  though  not  so  severe  as  the  last.  I 
was  surprised  to  find  so  little  game,  and  so  few  wild  animals  of 
any  kind  in  a country  of  this  nature.  Sir  R.  Colquhoun  told  me 
that  he  had,  in  his  preceding  journeys,  generally  both  heard  and 
seen  more  than  we  had  met  with,  and  which  were  confined  to  a 
small  flock  or  covey  of  jungle  fowl,  which  Lady  Colquhoun  saw, 
but  which  I only  heard  crowing  and  cackling.  My  companions 
were  not  able  to  tell  me  whether  the  jungle  poultry  had  ever  been 
tamed.  The  common  domestic  fowl,  of  the  country,  for  the  in- 
habitants, rigid  Hindoos  as  they  are  in  other  respects,  do  not 
object  to  the  touch  of  feathers,  are  almost  exactly  like  those  of 
the  wood.  Both  resemble  bantams  in  every  respect,  except  that 
their  legs  are  not  feathered.  Bears,  Sir  R.  Colquhoun  and^ll  the 
Khasyas  said,  are  numerous  in  these  woods.  We,  however,  saw 
none.  Tigers  are  not  very  abundant,  and  the  appearance  of  one 
excites  a sort  of  alarm  and  outcry  in  a neighbourhood  like  that  of 
a mad-dog  in  Europe.  It  is  not,  however,  thought  desirable  to 
wander  far  from  the  usual  track,  particularly  unarmed  or  alone. 
I once  took  a little  stroll,  though  with  Mr.  Boulderson’s  double- 
barrelled  gun  in  my  hand ; and  found  that  my  disappearance  had 
occasioned  a sort  of  sensahonin  the  camp,  and  that  my  two  faith- 
ful sepoys  were  posting  aiter  me. 

This  occurred  the  next  day,  the  4th,  when,  for  the  sake  of  the 
prospect,  we  breakfasted,  half-way  in  our  intended  march,  on 
Choumoka  Devi,  the  highest  mountain  which  1 ever  actually 
climbed,  (for  I did  not  go  to  the  peak  of  the  Gaughur,)  and  barely 
inferior  in  height  to  this  last  named  hill.  The  Gaughur,  Sir  R. 
Colquhoun  tells  me,  is  about  8000  feet  high  ; Choumoka  Devi  is 
7800.  At  the  summit,  which,  like  that  of  mount  Gaughur,  is 
ornamented  with  noble  trees,  cypress,  toon,  and  fir,  is  a small 
temple  of  not  inelegant  structure,  in  the  verandah  of  which  we 
sate  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  and  again  proceeded  in  the 
afternoon.  The  view  was  very  magnificent;  nothing  which  I 
ever  saw  equals  the  majesty  of  some  parts  of  the  mountain 
scenery  which  I have  passed  through  in  this  province.  There 
is,  indeed,  a want  of  water,  and  I could  not  help  thinking  how 
beautifully  these  hills  would  have  been  reflected  in  the  noble 
lakes  of  Norway.  But  over  Norway  they  have  the  advantages  of 
a more  brilliant  sky,  a warmer  and  more  luxuriant  vegetation,  a 
still  greater  ruggedness  and  variety  of  outline,  than  is  found  in 
Dovre  or  Fille-Fiel ; and  above  all,  the  icy  mountains  are  such 
a diadem  and  centre  to  the  view,  as  not  even  Switzerland  can 


416 


HIMALAYA  MOUNTAINS. 


show.  I thought  them  particularly  grand  when  seen  in  the  gray 
of  the  morning,  while  their  cold  distinct  outline  was  visible  along 
the  dark  sky,  with  no  refraction  to  puzzle,  or  vapours  to  conceal 
it.  At  other  times  their  forms  vary  according  to  the  shifting 
lights  and  shadows ; and  if  it  were  not  for  the  identity  of  situation, 
I could  sometimes  have  doubted  whether  the  peaks  which  I saw 
in  the  haze  of  noon,  were  the  same  with  those  which  in  the 
crimson  light  of  the  setting,  or  the  amber  brilliancy  of  the  rising 
sun,  had  delighted  me  in  so  different  a manner.  Seen,  however, 
as  they  may  be,  they  are  always  beautiful  and  wonderful ; and  1 
looked  on  them  from  Choumoka  Devi  with  the  more  admiration, 
because  1 knew  that  I was  then  to  bid  them  adieu. 

We  descended  thence  by  a long  and  rugged  declivity  of  about 
seven  miles,  at  first  through  pine  woods,  then  over  ground  par- 
tially cultivated,  then  through  a beautiful  and  awful  dell,  sur- 
rounded by  high  crags,  in  which  limestone  again  took  place  of 
slate  and  granite,  overhung  by  beautiful  trees  and  underwood,  of 
almost  every  kind  which  I have  met  with  in  Europe  or  India, 
and  swarming  with  the  pretty  white  monkeys  of  which  I have 
already  taken  notice.  At  the  bottom  of  this  dell  was  a torrent, 
now  containing  but  little  water,  but  by  the  width  of  its  bed,  and 
the  huge  granite  blocks  which  it  contained  by  w^ay  of  pebbles, 
sufficiently  showing  what  sort  of  stream  it  must  be  in  the  rainy 
season.  We  followed  this  about  half  a mile  farther,  and  found 
our  tents  pitched  in  an  angle  of  the  overhanging  rocks,  with  a 
fine  old  peepul-tree  in  front  of  them,  and  a little  lower  the  tor- 
rent, which  had  been  our  guide,  joining  the  Koosilla,  itself  a 
torrent  no  less  rapid  and  noisy,  but  wider  and  deeper  than  its 
tributary.  The  peepul  which  I have  noticed  is  a sacred  tree, 
and  gives  name  to  the  place,  having  been  planted  by  a devout 
brahmin  saint,  and  therefore  called  “ puntka-peepul,”  the  peepul 
of  the  caste.  We  should  all  of  us  have  liked  to  have  halted  here 
for  Sunday ; but  it  could  not  be  done  without  endangering  my 
arrival  at  Moradabad  on  the  following  Saturday,  and  we  therefore 
sent  on  our  breakfast-tent  as  usual.  It  was  much  warmer  here 
than  in  the  high  grounds ; and  the  noise  of  the  rustling  leaves  was 
so  like  rain,  that  I more  than  once  during  the  night  pitied  my 
poor  people  under  their  scanty  sheds  of  fir  branches,  and  was 
surprised  at  length  when,  on  calling  out  to  know  if  it  rained,  I 
was  told  that  the  night  was  beautiful. 

December  5. — This  morning  we  had  a very  tiresome  march  to 
a village  named  Okul-doonga.  Besides  divers  rocky  ascents  and 
descents,  and  without  taking  into  consideration  that  what  little 
level  ground  we.  met  with  was  on  the  side  of  a torrent,  and  so 
paved  with  large  loose  stones,  as  to  be  worse  than  most  beaches 
of  the  sea,  we  forded  the  Koosilla  no  less  than  twelve  times. 


OKUL-DOONGA. 


417 


through  a rapid  stream  frequently  as  high  as  the  middle  of  our 
saddles,  and  over  a bottom  the  most  rocky  and  uneven  1 ever 
passed.  The  mules  were  necessarily  unloaded  no  less  than  three 
times ; it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  the  ponies  could  keep 
their  legs,  and  we  were  all  wet  and  dry  three  or  four  times  over, 
to  our  knees  and  higher.  Nothing  could  be  clearer  than  the 
water,  or  more  beautiful  than  the  swarms  of  trout  which  we  saw 
playing  round  us,  but  under  such  circumstances  we  had  no  great 
leisure  for  speculation ; and  several  complaints  were  heard, 
though  fewest  I think  from  Lady  Colquhoun,  that  the  water  was 
colder  than  ice.  Our  sepoys  prayed,  with  chattering  teeth,  that 
we  might  soon  get  into  a sunny  place,  the  mountains  having,  for 
the  greater  part  of  the  march,  completely  kept  us  in  the  shade. 
They  were,  however,  so  fortunate  as  to  find  the  expiring  embers 
of  three  fires  in  different  places,  the  remnants  of  encampments 
made  by  travellers  the  night  before,  on  which  they  heaped  dry 
sticks,  and  soon  got  into  good  humour  again. 

Okul-doonga  is  a village  of  about  ten  families,  situated  on  a 
small  plain  elevated  above  the  river,  and  surrounded  on  two 
sides  by  deep  woody  ravines,  and  on  the  other  by  as  wild  and 
woody  mountains.  Though  stony,  it  seemed  fertile,  and  was  in 
a state  of  rich  cultivation,  uniting,  like  Oude,  most  of  the  pro- 
ductions of  temperate  and  tropical  climates.  We  all  exclaimed, 
on  first  seeing  the  spot  where  our  tents  were  pitched,  by  a clear 
stream  of  water,  on  a green  slope,  and  backed  with  majestic 
trees,  “ What  a place  for  a house,  and  how  such  a spot  would  be 
admired  in  England  !”  Our  admiration  was  not  diminished,  when, 
on  taking  our  evening’s  stroll,  we  heard  the  braying  of  deer,  and 
the  crowing  of  pheasants  and  jungle-bens  in  the  woods  ; or,  when 
a basket  of  bilberries,  and  a fine  dish  of  trout  just  caught,  were 
brought  to  us  by  a little  boy.  But  a few  inquiries  at  the  village 
damped  these  pleasurable  feelings.  The  place  was  described  as 
little  less  unhealthy  than  the  Terrai.  It  was,  indeed,  inhabited 
hj  some  of  its  people  throughout  the  year,  but  they  said  they 
had  all  sad  fevers  during  the  rains  ; and  that  when  it  was  hot  the 
hills  shut  out  the  breezes.  Their  cottages,  however,  though 
small,  were  tolerably  neat  and  comfortable.  The  people  seemed 
better  fed  and  clothed  than  most  of  the  Khasyas,  and  if  not  so 
healthy,  though  of  this  I saw  no  visible  signs,  were  apparently 
wealthier  and  more  intelligent  than  the  generality  of  their  moun- 
tain neighbours. 

The  huts  which  they  had  put  up  for  our  people,  were  of  a 
very  superior  description  in  point  of  comfort,  and  ingeniously 
calculated  to  save  time  and  trouble,  as  well  as  the  waste  of  pine- 
branches  and  straw.  They  were  made  of  frames  of  bamboo, 
each  something  like  a hurdle  in  shape  and  size,  w^ell  thatched, 

VoL.  1. — 53 


418 


GHORKHA  BOY. 


but  light,  and  easily  carried  from  place  to  place,  which  they  sup- 
ported on  props  when  they  were  wanted,  and  took  away  again 
and  laid  up  in  store,  so  soon  as  the  travellers,  for  whom  they 
were  produced,  had  left  them.  Among  the  Ghurwali,  Sir  R. 
Colquhoun  said,  this  was  the  usual  method,  but  in  Kemaoon  he 
had  never  seen  it  before.  Indeed  the  style  of  cultivation,  and 
many  other  circumstances,  implied  that  the  people  of  this  dis- 
trict, or  their  Zemindars,  were  far  better  managers  than  those 
near  Almorah.  The  rice  grown  in  this  neighbourhood,  and 
from  hence  down  as  low  as  Dikkalee,  is  of  a very  superior 
quality,  and  celebrated  all  over  India  for  its  whiteness  and  firm- 
ness. It  is  generally  called  Pillibheet  rice,  from  a town  of  that 
name  in  Rohilcund,  where  is  a considerable  fair  at  which  it  is 
sold,  and  where  it  first  attracted  European  notice.  It  is,  how- 
ever, the  product  not  of  Rohilcund,  but  of  this  valley,  and  is  to 
be  purchased  in  most  perfection  at  Chilkeah.  The  district  is 
also  celebrated  for  its  bamboos,  which,  though  small,  are  remark- 
ably tough,  and  seem  to  gain  consistency  and  soundness  from  a 
certain  degree  of  frost.  The  same  is  said  to  be  the  case  with 
plantains.  The  tea-plant  grows  wild  all  through  Kemaoon,  but 
cannot  be  made  use  of,  from  an  emetic  quality  which  it  pos- 
sesses. This  might,  perhaps,  be  removed  by  cultivation,  but  the 
experiment  has  never  been  tried.  For  the  cultivation  of  tea,  I 
should  apprehend  both  the  soil,  hilly  surface,  and  climate  of 
Kemaoon,  in  all  which  it  resembles  the  tea  provinces  of  China, 
extremely  favourable. 

The  history  of  the  poor  lad  who  brought  the  fish  was  not 
without  interest ; he  was  the  son  of  an  officer  of  the  Ghorkhas,  who 
during  their  occupation  of  the  country  had  been  jemautdar  of 
Havelbagh,  and  had  been  killed  fighting  against  the  English. 
This  boy  had  been  since  maintained,  as  he  himself  said,  chiefly 
by  snaring  birds,  catching  fish,  and  gathering  berries,  being  in- 
debted for  his  clothes  only,  which  were  decent  though  coarse,  to 
his  mother,  and  the  charity  of  different  neighbours  who  had  pity 
on  him  as  a sort  of  gentleman  in  distress.  He  had  his  forehead 
marked  with  chalk  and  vermilion  to  prove  his  high  caste,  had  a 
little  Ghorkha  knife,  a silver  clasp  and  chain,  and  a silver  bracelet 
on  his  arm,  with  a resolute  and  independent,  though  grave  de- 
meanour, not  ill  suited  to  this  character.  His  tools  of  trade  and 
livelihood  were  a bow  and  a fishing-rod,  both  of  the  rudest  kind. 
He  seemed  about  sixteen,  but  was  broad  set,  and  short  of  his  age. 
His  ambition  was  now  to  be  a sepoy,  and  he  was  very  earnest 
with  Sir  R.  Colquhoun  to  admit  him  into  his  corps.  He  said  he 
should  like  much  to  do  it,  but  doubted  his  height.  He,  however, 
told  him  to  meet  him  at  Havelbagh  on  his  return,  and  he  would 
see  what  could  be  done  for  him.  Meantime  we  paid  him  liber- 


HINDOO  OBSERVANCE  OF  SUNDAY.  . 


419 


ally  for  his  fish,  and  encouraged  him  to  bring  us  another  basket 
next  day  at  Dikkalee.  He  said,  at  first,  he  feared  the  fishermen 
of  that  place  would  beat  him,  but  after  a moment’s  recollection, 
added — let  them  do  it  if  they  dare — if  I have  your  orders  I will 
tell  them  so  !”  He  was  no  uninteresting  specimen  of  a forester 
born  and  bred,  one  who  from  his  tenderest  years  had  depended 
on  his,“  wood-craft”  for  a dinner,  and  had  been  used  to  hear  the 
stags  bray  and  the  tigers  growl  round  the  fire  of  his  bivouac. 

We  had  prayers  to-day  in  our  camp,  as  well  as,  which  indeed 
we  had  never  omitted,  family  prayers  in  the  evening. 

I have  often  noticed  among  the  Hindoos,  that  many  of  the  de- 
center sort  pay  a kind  of  regard  to  Sunday.  The  sepoys,  such 
of  them  at  least  as  were  brahmins,  were  more  than  usually  busy 
to-day  with  their  bells,  beads,  and  ashes  ; and  my  long  legged  fol- 
lower had  decked  himself  out  in  all  his  glory,  having  powdered 
his  face  entirely  with  chalk  and  cow  dung,  and  marked  his  naked 
body  all  over  with  white  broad  lines,  which,  on  his  dusky  skin, 
had  the  strangest  effect  imaginable  ; and  he  being  a very  tall, 
and  though  strong  and  muscular,  a very  thin,  large  boned  man, 
made  him,  at  a little  distance,  look  exactly  like  a skeleton.  Had 
he  taken  his  stand,  as  he  now  v/as,  in  any  church-yard,  few  chil- 
dren, women  or  men  in  the  parish,  would  have  doubted  his  un- 
. earthly  nature.  The  others  were  similarly  decorated,  but  with 
less  care,  and  less  dismally. 

December  6. — Salvator  Rosa  never  painted  glens  more  wild 
and  romantic  than  we  threaded  to-day  in  our  path  to  Dikkalee, 
nor  did  mules  or  ponies  often  pass  a worse  road.  We  emerged 
at  length  again  on  the  valley  of  the  Koosilla,  now  considerably 
increased  in  size,  though  fortunately  not  in  depth  or  rapidity  ; 1 
say  fortunately,  because  we  had  again  to  ford  it,  and  if  it  had 
been  a few  inches  deeper  than  where  we  passed  it  last,  it  would 
have  been  necessary  to  swim  our  horses.  The  banks  are  ex- 
ceedingly beautiful,  high  rocks  crowned  with  woods,  and  broken 
into  all  the  capricious  forms  which  lime-stone  in  a rainy  climate 
assumes.  The  valley  is  broader  and  more  stony,  and  the  fea- 
tures in  general  are  in  a grander  and  more  savage  style.  I had, 
indeed,  been  strongly  impressed,  during  the  last  three  days,  with 
the  conviction  that  this  is  by  far  the  most  beautiful  passage  into 
or  out  of  the  Kemaoon,  and  that,  except  the  Gorge  of  Mount 
Gaughur,  which  is  without  a rival,  nothing  is  seen  on  the  Beem- 
thal  road  which  equals  the  valley  of  the  Koosilla.  I only  hope 
that,  if,  three  years  hence,  1 have  the  pleasure  of  taking  my  wife 
through  this  part  of  India,  something  like  a road  will  have  been 
made  by  this  passage.  It  is,  decidedly,  the  most  advantageous 
line,  and  one  in  which  a track  for  loaded  mules  and  oxen  might  be 
constructed  at  a very  moderate  expense.  On  the  other  side  of 


420 


FISHERMEN. 


the  river  we  found  ourselves  on  more  level  ground,  and  rode 
under  a shade  of  walnuts,  toon,  and  ilex,  to  Dikkalee,  a station 
of  grass  huts,  occupied  during  the  dry  season  by  a small  detach- 
ment of  Sir  R.  Colquhoun’s  mountain  rangers,  but  like  Tandah 
and  places  of  the  same  kind,  deadly  at  other  times. 

Of  Tandah,  however,  as  well  as  the  rest  of  this  forest.  Sir 
Robert  spoke  in  a less  alarming  manner  than  those  with  whom 
I had.previously  conversed.  He  said  that  they  were  all,  unques- 
tionably, very  unwholesome  and  dangerous  places  at  particular 
seasons,  but  in  the  present  or  the  past  month,  they  were  not  worse 
than  many  of  the  low  vallfes  of  Kemaoon,  which  were  yet  often 
necessarily  traversed  by  the  officers  of  Government.  He  ascribed 
much  of  the  unhealthiness  both  of  the  forest  and  the  Terrai,  to 
the  sudden  changes  of  temperature,  the  burning  sun  and  the 
chilling  blasts  which  often  come  from  the  hills.  This  seemed  the 
only  reason  why  April  and  May  were  so  pestilential  as  they  were 
allowed  to  be. 

The  Ghorkha  boy  came  with  his  fish,  as  he  promised  ; but  his 
offering  was  eclipsed  by  a large  basket-full  which  some  fishermen 
brought.  Sir  Robert  Colquhoun  said  it  was  well  worth  while  to 
see  their  manner  of  catching  the  fish,  and  we  all  three  went  in 
the  evening  to  the  spot  wffiere  they  had  laid  their  nets.  It  was  a 
small  rapid  in  the  river,  more  shallow  than  usual,  above  and 
below  which  was  a long  net,  from  the  space  between  which  they 
scooped  out  all  the  fish  which  they  could  find,  having,  as  I under- 
stood, drawn  their  nets  in  opposite  directions  up  and  down  the 
stream,  till  they  had  enclosed  a considerable  number  in  a com- 
paratively narrow  space.  To  catch  them,  however,  they  had 
neither  casting  nor  scoop  nets,  nor  any  thing  but  their  hands, 
which,  as  well  as  their  teeth,  they  used  with  much  dexterity, 
hunting  the  fish  among  the  large  stones  in  a very  amusing  manner. 
A splendid  haul  was  taken,  from  which,  after  choosing  one  or  two 
of  the  best  for  ourselves,  and  two  baskets-full  for  the  servants  and 
sepoys,  we  told  the  people  who  had  assisted  in  the  sport,  and  who 
were  chiefly  our  own  Khasya  bearers,  that  they  might  take  the 
rest  themselves.  A scramble,  but  in  much  good-humour,  followed, 
and  this  addition  to  their  pay  seemed,  as  often  happens,  to  please 
them  more  than  the  pay  itself. 

While  this  was  going  on,  the  Ghorkha  boy  stood  by  idle. 
a Why  do  not  you  try  your  luck  ?”  Lady  Colquhoun  asked  him. 
“ I can  catch  fish  for  myself,”  was  his  answer,  “ and  what  use  to 
jostle  with  fools  ?”  He  is  evidently  a singular  character.  1 wish 
he  may  get  honourable  employment  in  our  army  ; for,  if  not,  he 
has  about  him  many  of  the  elements  of  an  excellent  Pindarree. 

All  the  fish,  except  the  trout,  in  these  rivers  have  leather 
mouths,  with  a stronger  power  of  suction  than  is  usually  observ- 


CHILKEAH. 


421 


able.  The  common  opinion  is,  that  they  fasten  themselves  by 
this  means  to  stones  and  rocks  in  order  to  be  secure  against  the 
violence  of  the  stream.  There  are  others  also  like  those  of  Eng- 
land, but  some  of  them  of  lighter  colour.  I this  evening  took 
leave  of  my  kind  friends,  who  intended  to  remain  here  another 
day  and  then  to  march  by  the  foot  of  the  hills  to  Bamoury. 

December  7. — ^The  way  from  Dikkalee  to  Chilkeah  is  all 
forest,  but  by  no  means  level  like  the  tract  between  Bamoury 
and  Ruderpoor.  It  is  a collection  of  rocky  and  woody  hills,  with 
a very  good  road  winding  through  them.  The  grass  is  long,  and 
the  jungle  in  several  places  thick,  but  the  trees,  many  of  them 
very  fine  ones,  stand  a good  way  apart.  At  length  a steep  pitch 
of  rugged  road  brought  us  out  on  the  plain,  and  we  saw  a wretch- 
ed village  before  us,  with  my  tents,  white  and  shining  in  the 
morning  sun,  beside  it.  The  first  appearance  of  the  inhabitants 
of  Chilkeah  was  not  prepossessing.  They  had  the  same  yellow 
skins,  the  same  dull  yet  fierce  look,  the  same  ragged  and  scanty 
clothing,  the  same  swords  and  shields,  as  those  in  the  other  parts 
of  these  inhospitable  plains.  Their  cottages  were  half  buried  in 
tall  grass,  and  the  place  had  not  a more  auspicious  look  than  the 
most  unhealthy  of  the  eastern  villages. 

From  the  mohout,  however,  of  my  elephant,  which  was  sent 
to  meet  me,  I had  the  satisfaction  of  learning  that  all  the  people 
were  well ; and  in  the  apparent,  and  I believe  sincere,  cordiality 
which  both  sepoys  and  servants  displayed  on  receiving  me  after 
this  absence,  in  returning  to  my  own  “ accustomed  tent”  and 
furniture,  in  revisiting  Cabul  and  Nesjeed,  and  in  hearing  again 
the  ‘‘  ta/am”  of  the  two  little  children  of  the  mohout,  I felt  for 
a moment  something  like  the  pleasure  of  home,  till  I recollected 
how  far  I still  was,  and  how  long  I was  likely  to  be,  separated 
from  those  who  only  make  home  agreeable  to  me.  The  old 
soubahdar,  who  received  me  at  the  head  of  his  company  with 
presented  arms,  drum,  and  fife,  gave  a short  and  favourable  account 
of  the  progress  of  his  party.  They  had  come  straight  through 
the  forest  from  Tandah  to  Casherpoor,  remained  there  a few 
days,  and  thence  advanced  to  Chilkeah  ; all  were  well,  both  men 
and  animals,  except  one  poor  elephant,  which  had  been  grievously 
bruised  several  years  ago  in  helping  to  carry  a field-piece  to 
Almorah,  and  whose  hurts,  strange  to  say,  broke  out  again  as 
soon  as  she  approached  the  hills  ! The  loss  of  her  services  was 
at  present  very  inconvenient,  but  it  was  fortunate  that  we  had 
not  sent  the  mules  away. 

Chilkeah,  though  a poor  place  to  look  at,  is  by  no  means  an 
unimportant  one  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  being  one  of  the 
principal  marts  of  trade  both  into  Kemaoon,  and  through  that 


422 


CASHERPOOR. 


country  into  Tibet  and  Tartary.  A great  number  of  temporary 
huts  ranged  in  the  form  of  a regular  town,  were  already  built, 
and  many  more  were  building,  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
traders  who  meet  in  this  emporium,  and  I was  surprised  io  find 
English  cloths  and  eastern  shawls  of  good  appearance,  with  many 
other  apparently  serviceable  and  valuable  commodities  exposed 
for  sale  in  huts,  which  scarcely  equalled  a cottage  cow-house  in 
Shropshire.  When  the  unhealthy  weather  returns,  all  these  huts 
are  abandoned,  and,  during  the  rains,  fall  into  nearly  total  ruin. 
Yet  the  jemautdar  of  Chilkeah  said  their  water  was  good,  in 
which  all  my  people  agreed,  and  considered  the  place  as  healthy, 
that  is,  for  one  in  the  Terrai.  Such,  however,  is  the  horror  with 
which  even  this  most  favoured  tract  of  the  lowlands  is  regarded 
by  the  Khasya  mountaineers,  that  Sir  R.  Colquhoun  told  me  he 
knew  an  instance  in  which  six  invalid  sepoys  rather  preferred  to 
give  up  their  pensions  than  go  to  Meerut  through  Chilkeah  during 
the  bad  season  ; and  another  in  which  a robbery  and  murder  were 
not  prosecuted,  because  none  of  the  witnesses  could  be  prevailed 
on  by  any  possible  inducement  to  go  to  Moradabad,  the  circuit 
court.  Under  these  circumstances,  it  is  evident  that  Kemaoon 
ought  to  have  a separate  jurisdiction,  and  that  her  military  offi- 
cers should  have  such  power  as  to  enable  them  to  act,  in  some 
cases,  independently  of  their  superior  officers  in  the  plains.  This 
would,  however,  he  difficult,  and  the  only  remedy  which  seems 
practicable,  is  to  give  a latitude  in  such  cases  as  I have  men- 
tioned. The  separate  judicature  seems  absolutely  necessary,  for 
it  is  a grievous  thing  to  say,  “ you  shall  not  obtain  justice  unless  at 
the  great  risk  of  a putrid  fever !”  The  view  of  the  mountains 
from  Chilkeah  is  very  good,  but  I was  satiated  with  fine  scenery, 
and  was  only  bent  on  pushing  on. 

December  8.— Next  morning,  accordingly,  we  proceeded  ten 
coss  to  Casherpoor.  I went  on  horseback  over  a very  wild, 
marshy,  and  jungly  plain,  overgrown  with  grass  far  higher  than 
my  head,  and  scattered  with  trees  and  bushes.  I have  never 
seen  a more  feverish  or  tigerly  country,  nor  was  Casherpoor,  when 
I reached  it,  a bit  better  looking  than  Ruderpoor.  Surely,  if 
these  places  are  really  healthier  than  those  on  the  other  road, 
and  they  are  certainly  more  populous,  there  must  be  more  in  the 
difference  of  the  water  than  Europeans  are  willing  to  allow. 

Casherpoor  is  a famous  place  of  Hindoo  pilgrimage,  has  divers 
temples,  and  a very  holy  and  dirty  tank,  where  the  pilgrims  bathe 
in  their  way  to  the  temples  at  the  foot  of  Bhadrinath.  None  of 
them,  however,  are  particularly  Avorthy  of  notice ; and  the  most 
remarkable  thing  which  1 saw  was  a quack-doctor,  a Mussulman, 
educated,  he  said,  at  Lucknow,  and  well  stocked,  not  indeed  with 


SUPPOSED  VOLCANO  ON  NUNDIDEVL 


423 


medicines,  for  he  had  only  a very  little  satchel,  but  with  all  the 
usual  grimace  of  a merry  Andrew,  and  a good  stock  of  confidence, 
with  some  little  English  and  Persian. 

In  walking  to  a ruinous  fort  at  a short  distance  from  the  town, 

I passed,  however,  after  I had  written  this,  some  noble  mangoe- 
trees,  overshadowing  the  tombs  and  temples,  of  which  I have 
spoken,  and  two  walled  orchards,  planted,  as  the  village  jemaut- 
dar  told  me,  by  wealthy  merchants  resident  in  the  place.  He 
said  a great  trade  passed  through  this  channel,  and  the  town, 
from  its  superior  healthiness,  was  much  preferred  to  Chilkeah  by 
the  rich  traders.  I asked  him  if  the  fever  never  came  here.  He 
shook  his  head,  but  said  that  it  was  chiefly  confined  to  the  poor, 
and  those  who  had  scanty  clothing  and  slept  on  the  ground ; a 
description,  however,  which  comprises  nine-tenths  of  all  who 
ever  came  into  this  neighbourhood.  He  said  that  Casherpoor 
was  built  by  a divinity,  as  1 understood  him,  named  Cashi,  5000 
years  ago ; that  it  was  a great  place  in  all  the  wars  formerly  car- 
ried on  on  this  frontier,  and  that  this  was  the  best  and  nearest 
way  to  China.  Abdullah,  who  followed  us,  listened  with  great 
attention  to  his  narrative,  but  interposed  a doubt  as  to  the  anti- 
quity of  the  place  being  so  great  as  he  supposed,  on  the  ground 
that,  according  to  the  Persian  Chronicles,  Jumsheed  Jum,  who 
only  lived  4700  years  ago,  was  the  first  who  built  either  in  brick 
or  stone,  adding  in  English  to  me,  that  ‘‘  it  was  he  who  built  the 
tower  of  Babel.”  I was  a little  afraid  of  war  between  the  rival 
Titans,  Cashi  and  Jumsheed,  when  the  long-legged  sepoy,  who 
had  also  followed,  cried  out,  “ There  is  Nundidevi !”  and  all  eyes 
were  turned  either  to  see  the  hill  of  which  such  wonders  had 
doubtless  been  told,  or,  as  in  my  own  case,  to  take  a last  leave 
of  one  of  the  noblest  inanimate  works  of  Providence.  Of  the 
white  hills,  Nundidevi  alone  was  visible,  but  he  was  very  dis- 
tinctly so.  I forget  whether  1 mentioned  in  its  proper  place  that, 
all  the  natives  of  the  country  assert,  a smoke  is  often  seen  to  rise 
from  the  lower  of  his  highest  peaks.  This  is,  they  say,  the 
kitchen  of  the  god  Nundi ; but,  if  it  is  true,  for  no  European  has 
yet  seen  it,  it  is  a very  curious  instance  of  a volcano  situated  so 
far  from  the  sea,  the  waters  of  which  are,  by  most  chemists, 
supposed  to  be  necessary  to  the  production  of  those  terrible  phe- 
nomena. The  frequency  of  earthquakes  in  these  regions  might 
countenance  the  idea  of  subterraneous  fire,  but  I have  not  been 
able  to  learn  that  any  volcanic  remains,  whether  scoriae  or  basalt, 
have  been  as  yet  discovered.  It  is  possible  that  a fleecy  cloud 
may  have  been  mistaken  for  smoke ; but  the  labours  of  Captain 
Herbert,  the  mineralogist  employed  by  Government,  who  is  de- 
scribed as  enterprising  and  indefatigable,  may  probably  soon  throw 
some  light  on  the  question.  If  there  is  a volcano  on  Nundidevi, 


424 


SPINNING-WHEELS. 


it  must,  however,  be  very  inert  and  almost  extinct,  or  it  would 
have  placed  itself  ere  this  beyond  doubt. 

December  9. — We  proceeded  to  Belagary,  a poor  little  village, 
whither  we  were  obliged  to  take  provisions  from  Casherpoor,  as 
it  neither  contained  bazar  nor  tradesman.  The  road  was  good, 
and  the  country  improving  in  fertility  and  cultivation,  though 
still  inferior  to  the  average  of  India.  One  of  the  camel-drivers 
here  complained  of  illness,  and  seemed  very  feverish ; I gave  him 
medicine,  and  finding  he  had  no  tent  or  other  shelter,  I made  his 
companions,  a brutish  set,  and  extremely  careless  of  each  other, 
contrive  a little  shed  for  him  of  camel  furniture  and  sacks,  and 
also  ordered  one  of  them  to  sit  by  him  and  give  him  “ congee,” 
rice-gruel,  as  often  as  he  complained  of  thirst.  I cannot  say  that 
I at  all  liked  either  his  pulse  or  his  looks ; but  though  I felt  again 
perplexed,  I thought  that  the  path  which  I was  treading  was  at 
least  a safe  one.  In  fact  he  found  himself  better  in  the  evening ; 
and  I hoped  that  I had  provided  against  a relapse  by  giving  him 
a birth  in  the  servants’  tent, 

I walked  round  the  village  in  the  evening,  merely  for  the  sake 
of  a walk,  not  anticipating  that  1 should  see  any  thing  curious. 
1 was  pleased,  however,  with  the  appearance  of  the  houses,  which, 
though  very  humble,  were  all  in  good  repair,  showed  abundance 
of  buffaloes  in  their  little  court-yards,  and  were  kept  with  a de- 
gree of  cleanliness  and  smartness,  which,  though  not  inseparable 
from  a state  of  moderate  comfort  and  plenty,  (since  there  are 
peasants,  like  the  Dutch  colonists  of  the  Cape  and  the  North 
American  farmers,  who  are  at  once  affluent  and  dirty,)  is  at  least 
never  seen  where  some  degree  of  comfort  and  plenty  is  not  found. 
I saw  also  the  women  spinning  cotton  on  small  and  odd-shaped 
wheels. 

The  young  women  seemed  more  shy  than  most  Hindoos  of 
their  sex  are.  One  poor  girl,  with  red  trowsers,  a saffron  veil, 
and  larger  silver  anklets  than  her  neighbours,  ran  away  as  hard 
as  she  could  when  we  approached,  but  by  ill  luck  turning  down 
a wrong  lane,  fell  a second  time  into  the  jaws  of  her  enemy. 
1 thought  for  a moment  that  her  alarm  was  counterfeited,  and 
merely  d^fuga  ad  salices,  but  it  was  evident  that  such  a suspicion 
did  her  injustice.  All  the  people,  both  here  and  at  Casherpoor, 
are  Hindoos,  which,  indeed,  except  the  descendants  of  the  Patan 
conquerors,  seems  the  case  with  almost  all  the  inhabitants  of 
Rohilcund. 

December  10. — This  morning  we  went  to  a small  town  named 
Boitpoor,  or  some  such  name,  through  a fertile  level  country, 
with  some  groves  of  very  large  mangoes  and  tara-palms.  The 
mangoe  tree  grows  to  a greater  size  in  the  north-east  of  this 
province,  than  in  any  other  part  of  India  I have  yet  traversed. 


BOITPOOR— WHITE  BUFFALO. 


425 


Several  which  1 passed  to-day  equalled  those  at  Ruderpoor.  It 
is  certainly,  I conceive,  the  largest  fruit  tree  in  the  world. 

Boitpoor  has  a small  bazar,  and  a very  minute  mosque.  It  is 
partly  inhabited  by  Mussulmans,  who,  I thought  at  first,  received 
us  less  civilly  than  the  people  of  most  Indian  villages.  It  turned 
out,  however,  that  the  Zemindar,  who  had  also  been  jemautdar, 
was  dead,  and  that  his  family  were  not  yet  visible;  consequently 
the  place  was  without  a “ Malik,”  or  master ; and  every  body 
did.  what  he  thought  right,  which,  in  the  present  case,  was  to 
do  nothing.  As  this  would  not  answer  my  purpose,  I sent  a 
message  to  the  brother  of  the  deceased,  stating  that  I should 
not  trouble  him  to  come  to  me,  but  only  to  order  his  tenants  to 
furnish  the  usual  supplies,  at  the  usual  rate.  He  came,  however, 
a gray  headed  man,  apparently  in  grief,  and  made  many  apologies 
which  I could  not  persuade  him  were  needless.  While  we  were 
talking,  a man  came  up,  throwing  dust  in  the  air,  and  crying  out 
pitifully  for  “ Justice!  justice!”  He  at  first  said  that  “my  people 
had  taken  his  fish,  his  straw,  his  bread — that  he  was  plundered, 
ruined,  and  must  starve,  he  and  his  children !”  At  length  1 asked 
him  if  he  had  been  paid  for  his  fish.  He  hesitated;  but  two  or 
three  of  the  people  ran  up  to  say  that  he  had  had  seven  anas, 
which  I knew  was  quite  sufficient  for  the  whole  basket.  I then 
asked  the  Zemindar  the  probable  value  of  the  straw  which  had 
been  taken,  who  answered  “ a pice.”  I gave  him  two  pice,  but 
still  he  was  not  satisfied,  though  he  now  confessed  he  had  lost 
nothing  more ; I therefore  sent  him  away,  marvelling  at  the  habit 
which  seems  to  prevail  in  all  these  countries,  of  demanding  justice 
with  bitter  outcries;  and,  even  when  the  affair  is  a trifle,  assuming 
the  air  and  desperation  of  a ruined  man. 

The  poor  camel-driver  was  better,  but  by  no  means  well,  and 
I had  a sepoy  complaining  to-day.  In  the  evening  I took  my 
usual  walk,  accompanied  by  the  old  soubahdar  and  the  late 
Zemindar’s  brother,  a very  stupid  old  man,  who  merely  knew  that 
' Boitpoor  had  once  been  a flourishing  place,  but  had  been  ruined 
in  the  wars.  I saw,  however,  some  things  worth  notice:  first,  a 
white  buffalo,  a thing  which  Abdullah,  who  also  followed  me,  as 
did  my  two  inseparable  sepoys,  and  nearly  half  the  village,  pointed 
out  as  a great  curiosity,  such  as  he,  at  least,  had  never  seen  before. 
The  second  was  the  manner  of  weaving  and  dyeing  a coarse  kind 
of  chintz,  of  which  there  seemed  to  be  a considerable  manufactory 
in  the  place.  The  weaving  was  like  other  weaving,  but  the  d}^e- 
ing  was  done  very  simply  and  well,  with  small  types,  if  I may 
call  them  so,  made  to  represent  different  parts  of  the  pattern,  and 
laid  on  in  succession,  after  being  dipped  in  different  colours.  All 
the  colours  were  vegetable,  and  I noticed  madder,  indigo,  and  a 
strong  good  yellow,  which  they  said  was  extracted  from  the  toon 
VoL.  I.— 54 


426 


SUGAR  MILL. 


tree.  The  fabric  of  the  stuff  was  bad,  but  the  patterns  neat  and 
showy.  A caftan  of  this  stuff,  lined  with  red  or  white,  and  quilted 
with  cotton,  is  called  a “lebada,”  from  “libd,”  a quilt,  in  Arabic 
and  Hebrew,  and  is  the  common  winter  dress  of  the  people  in  all 
these  provinces.  The  third  particular  was  a sugar  mill  at  work, 
a machine  of  the  simplest  construction,  but  which  seemed  to 
answer  its  purpose  tolerably.  It  consisted  of  a large  vat  under 
ground,  covered  by  a stout  platform,  in  the  centre  of  w^hich  was 
a wooden  cylinder,  apparently  the  hollowed  stump  of  a tree.  In 
this  was  a stout  piece  of  timber  fixed  as  in  a socket,  w^hich  was 
turned  round  and  round  like  the  stick  used  in  milling  chocolate, 
by  a beam  fastened  to  it,oto  which  two  oxen  were  yoked.  A man 
sate  on  the  beam  behind  the  oxen,  and  kept  thrusting  in,  betwixt 
the  upright  timber  and  its  socket,  pieces  of  sugar-cane  of  about  a 
foot  long,  which  were  necessarily  crushed  by  the  timber  as  it 
turned  round,  so  that  their  juice  ran  down  into  the  vat  beneath. 
They  said  that  stones,  on  the  principle  of  a common  mill,  were 
far  better  where  they  could  be  procured;  but  here  they  were  very 
poor,  and  stones  were  dear.  Fourth,  as  1 returned  home,  I passed 
a fine  tree  of  the  mimosa,  with  leaves  at  a little  distance  so  much 
resembling  those  of  the  mountain-ash,  that  I was  for  a moment 
deceived,  and  asked  if  it  did  not  bring  fruit.  They  answered  no, 
but  it  was  a very  noble  tree,  being  called  “ the  Imperial  tree,” 
for  its  excellent  properties, — that  it  slept  all  night,  and  wakened 
and  was  alive  all  day,  withdrawing  its  leaves  if  any  one  attempted 
to  touch  them.  Above  all,  however,  it  was  useful  as  a preserva* 
tive  against  magic ; a sprig  worn  in  the  turban  or  suspended  over 
the  bed,  was  a perfect  security  against  all  spells,  evil  eye,  &:c., 
insomuch  that  the  most  formidable  wizard  would  not,  if  he  could 
help  it,  approach  its  shade.  One,  indeed,  they  said,  who  was  very 
renowned  for  his  power  (like  Lorrinite  in  Kehama)  of  killing 
plants,  and  drying  up  their  sap  with  a look,  had  come  to  this  very 
tree  and  gazed  on  it  intently : “ But,”  said  the  old  man  who  told 
me  this,  with  an  air  of  triumph,  “ look  as  he  might  he  could  do 
the  tree  no  harm !”  a fact  of  which  1 make  no  question.  I was 
amused  and  surprised  to  find  the  superstition  which^  in  England 
and  Scotland,  attach  to  the  rowan-tree,  here  applied  to  a tree  of 
nearly  similar  form.  Which  nation  has  been,  in  this  case,  the 
imitator,  or  from  what  common  centre  are  all  these  common 
notions  derived? 

I had  met  several  men,  within  these  few  days,  riding  on  oxen, 
a custom  which  I had  not  remarked  elsewhere.  The  oxen  seemed 
very  tolerable  nags,  little  inferior  to  the  common  tattoos  of  the 
country. 

December  1 1. — This  morning  we  went  six  coss  to  Moradabad. 
It  is  a moderate  sized  town,  with  a handsome  garden  or  two,  and 


MORADABAD. 


427 


some  remains  of  former  splendour,  standing  on  a sluggish  river, 
the  Ramgunga,  as  wide  nearly  in  this  place  as  the  Severn  at 
Shrewsbury,  but  shallow  and  fordable,  apparently,  in  several 
places.  I was  on  my  elephant,  but  it  might,  without  the  least 
difficulty^  have  been  passed  on  horseback.  I found  that  Mr.  Hal- 
hed  and  Mr.  Parry  Okeden  were  absent  from  home  on  duty,  the 
whole  station  being  rendered  on  the  alert  by  the  alarm  of  a body 
of  armed  plunderers  having  assembled  on  the  skirts  of  the  forest, 
north  of  this  place,  between  Chilkeah  and  Hurdwar.  I received, 
however,  very  great  kindness  and  hospitality  from  Mr.  Ford,  the 
collector  of  the  whole  district,  (the  northern  and  southern  parts 
of  which  are  divided  between  Mr.  Halhed  and  Mr.  Boulderson,) 
who,  together  with  Mr.  Scott,  the  judge  and  magistrate,  called  on 
me  early  in  the  forenoon.  I had  also  a visit  from  Mr.  Simms,  the 
junior  station  surgeon,  (who  is  brother-in-law  to  our  friend  Dr. 
Bliss,  of  St.  John’s,)  and  I was  glad  to  consult  him  about  my  two 
sick  men.  I was  grieved  to  find  that  he  considered  their  com- 
plaint as  likely  to  turn  out  the  jungle-fever ! His  view  of  the 
unwholesomeness  of  the  Terrai  corresponded  entirely  with  what 
I had  heard  at  Bareilly,  and  from  Mr.  Boulderson.  He  said  that 
there  were  many  places  along  the  border  wffiich  were  at  all  sea- 
sons dangerous ; that  Mr.  Halhed’s  party  had  already  sent  in 
several  sick  since  their  pursuit  of  the  freebooters  commenced ; 
and  though  less  dangerous  at  some  times  than  others,  he  did  not 
conceive  either  the  Terrai  or  the  forest  to  be  ever  wholesome 
places  to  linger  in. 

Under  these  circumstances  I felt  extremely  sorry  that  I had 
detained  my  men  even  a few  days  at  Chilkeah,  though  in  so  doing 
1 acted  from  the  best  information  in  my  power.  Mr.  Simms 
thought  that  it  would  turn  out  a mild  case  with  both  of  them ; 
but  it  was  necessary  that  they  should  be  immediately  removed  to 
the  military  hospital.  The  poor  sepoy  was  very  unwilling  to  go, 
but  there  was  no  remedy.  The  camel-driver  was  really  so  ill 
this  morning  that  he  was  hardly  able  to  express  any  choice  in  the 
affair.  Mr.  Simms  good-naturedly  procured  dhoolies  to  carry 
them,  and  promised  me  to  pay  them  all  the  attention  in  his  power. 

December  12,  Sunday, — I read  prayers,  preached,  and  adminis- 
tered the  Sacrament  to-day,  in  one  of  the  rooms  of  the  collector’s 
cutcherry,  to  about  twenty  persons  ; a more  numerous  congrega- 
tion than  1 expected,  considering  that  so  many  of  the  residents 
were  away.  Indeed,  Mr*.  Okeden  and  Mr.  Williams,  the  assistant 
register,  actually,  on  purpose  to  be  present,  returned  from  the 
camp,  about  forty  miles  off. 

The  cutcherry  is  a large  and  handsome  house,  which  was  built 
by  Mr.  Leicester  when  he  was  judge  and  magistrate  here.  It 
is  on  the  same  sort  of  scale  with  our  house  in  Calcutta,  with  the 


428 


NATIVE  CHRISTIANS. 


addition  of  a very  splendid  gateway  as  lodge,  which  would  serve 
for  the  gate  of  a city,  and  an  extent  of  at  least  twenty  acres  of 
land,  formerly  laid  out  in  garden,  but  now  totally  neglected,  ex- 
cept as  a field  for  making  bricks  out  of.  The  most  curious  part, 
however,  of  the  place  to  an  English  eye,  is  that  this  fine  house 
(for  it  really  is  a very  fine  one)  is  surrounded  by  a mud  rampart, 
with  a deep  moat,  and  four  small  circular  bastions,  all  now  much 
out  of  repair.  On  expressing  some  surprise  at  this,  I was  told 
that  when  Mr.  Leicester  built  the  house,  such  a precaution  was, 
in  this  part  of  India,  not  undesirable,  though  it  was  rather  unusual. 

After  service  I had  three  christenings,  and  an  interesting  visit 
from  a fine  gray-bearded  old  man,  who  said  he  had  been  con- 
verted by  Mr.  Corrie  to  Christianity,  when  at  Agra,  and  that  his 
name  was  “ Noor  Musseeh,”  Light  of  the  Messiah.  He  came  to 
ask  for  books,  if  I had  any  to  spare  him  ; to  introduce  his  son,  a 
tall,  strapping,  but  not  auspicious  looking  young  man,  who  was  a 
catechumen,  and  wished  to  be  baptized  ; and  lastly,  to  beg  me  to 
speak  to  the  collector  and  Mr.  Halhed,  that  he  might  not  be 
turned  out  of  a small  office  which  he  held,  and  which,  he  said, 
he  was  in  danger  of  losing  on  account  of  his  Christianity  ! This, 
indeed,  was  not  the  reason  given,  but  he  said  that  his  comrades 
in  office,  fierce  Mussulmans,  left  no  stone  unturned  to  misrepre- 
sent and  ruin  him,  and  that,  if  he  had  no  protector,  he  must  sink. 
Abdullah  said  he  knew  from  his  own  experience,  and  from  all  he 
had  heard  from  Fyzee  Musseeh  and  Abdul  Musseeh,  that  this  was 
very  likely  to  be  true,  and  I therefore  did  give  the  poor  man  a 
few  lines,  stating  his  case,  to  both  Mr.  Ford  and  Mr.  Halhed.  I 
also  furnished  him  with  a Hindoostanee  prayer-book,  (he  had 
already  the  four  Gospels,)  and  with  regard  to  his  son,  whom  he 
said  he  had  instructed  carefully  to  the  best  of  his  knowledge,  I 
told  him  1 could  not  myself  examine  him  sufficiently  to  judge  of 
his  acquirements  in  Christianity,  which,  indeed,  did  not  seem 
very  extensive,  but  if  he  would  go  with  me  to  Meerut,  he  might 
put  his  bed  under  the  connauts  of  the  tent,  and  1 would  give  him 
his  provisions,  and  that  there  Mr.  Fisher  should  examine  and 
instruct  him  more  fully.  The  old  man  was  very  grateful,  and 
wanted  to  kiss  my  knees  and  feet ; the  young  one  bowled  very 
low,  and  asked  my  blessing,  but  did  not  seem  to  participate  in  an 
equal  degree  in  his  father’s  zeal.  This  is  the  third  or  fourth 
Christian  I have  heard  of  scattered  up  and  down  in  these  moun- 
tain provinces,  and  it  is  likely  that,  as  Mr.  Corrie  thinks,  there 
are  many  more  believers  “in  Christ,  who  dare  not,  by  owning 
themselves,  incur  the  ill  will  of  their  neighbours. 

I went  in  the  afternoon  to  the  hospital  to  see  the  sepoy  and 
camel-driver.  The  former  I found' in  much  distress  and  depres- 
sion of  spirits,  from  being  in  a strange  place  and  without  a nurse. 


MORADABAD. 


429 


Being  a brahmin  he  could  only  receive  nourishment,  and  particu- 
larly water,  from  one  of  his  own  caste,  and  there  was  no  such 
person  attached  to  the  hospital.  He  was  quite'sensible,  but  very 
feverish,  and  seemed  to  think  himself  left  to  die.  1 encouraged 
him  as  well  as  I could,  and  wrote  a note  to  Mr.  Simms,  begging 
him  to  get  a brahmin  for  him,  which  he  might  easily  do  from  the 
regiment  quartered  in  the  place.  The  poor  camel-driver  thought 
himself  better,  his  fever  having  intermitted.  The  hospital  is  a 
very  comfortable  one  for  this  climate,  a large  thatched  bungalow, 
all  in  one  room  like-  a barn,  with  sufficient  air,  and  very  well 
verandahed  round.  The  beds  were  clean  and  comfortable,  and 
there  seemed  no  want  of  any  thing,  but  that  peculiar  attendance 
which  the  prejudices  of  ftie  Hindoos  require,  and  which,  I was 
given  to  understand,  would  on  my  application  be  immediately* 
supplied. 

Mr.  Parry  Okeden  called  on  me  in  the  course  of  the  day.  He 
considered  the  banditti,  whom  they  had  been  pursuing,  as  com- 
pletely dispersed.  They  followed  them  a day  or  two,  and  once 
were  very  near  surprising  them  in  their  bivouac,  where  they 
found  the  embers  still  hot,  and  the  pitchers  for  cooking  not  all 
empty.  They  had  issued  promises  of  reward  for  the  apprehension 
of  the  ringleaders,  but  did  not  expect  much  result  from  the 
measure. 

I had  an  opportunity  here  of  seeing  the  way  in  which  ice  is 
made  all  over  upper  India.  A number  of  broad  and  very  shallow 
earthen  pans  are  placed  on  a layer  of  dry  straw,  and  filled  with 
water.  In  the  night,  even  the  small  degree  of  frost  which  is  felt 
here,  is  sufficient  to  cover  these  with  a thin  coat  of  ice,  which  is 
carefully  collected  and  packed  up.  The  quantity  produced  must 
be,  however,  very  small,  and  the  process  an  expensive  one. 
Vines  seem  to  thrive  well  here,  but  they  do  not  prune  them  close 
enough.  They  are  very  beautiful  objects,  but  a vine  to  be  pro- 
ductive should  be  trimmed  till  it  is  downright  ugly.  Here  the 
climate  mig|it  answer  very  well.  In  Kemaoon  it  does  not ; the 
rains  setting  in  so  early  that  the  fruit  has  not  time  to  ripen.  On 
the  whole,  I am  rather  struck  with  the  apparent  similarity  in 
many  points  of  productions,  scenery,  &c.  of  Rohilcund  with  Ben- 
gal. The  climate  is  certainly  different,  yet  in  other  respects  they 
resemble  each  other  more  than  any  parts  of  India  which  I have 
yet  visited.  Rohilcund,  however,  in  every  thing  but  rivers  has 
much  the  advantage. 

I saw  frequently,  during  the  last  week,  the  nest  of  the  tree- 
wasp,  about  the  size  of,  and  nearly  similar  in  shape  to  those  of 
the  English,  but  hanging  like  large  withered  fruit  from  the 
branches  of  trees.  I have  not  seen  any  of  the  insects  themselves, 
at  least  to  distinguish  them,  nor  have  I been  able  to  learn  whether, 


430 


RAMPOOR. 


and  in  what  respects,  they  differ  from  their  brethren  who  hive  in 
banks  and  hollow  places. 

Like  almost  alMhe  nobility  of  India,  the  Nawab  of  Rampoor 
is  a mere  drunkard  and  voluptuary.  He  had,  lately,  a very  clever 
managing  steward,  under  whom  his  little  territory  prospered 
greatly.  But,  like  the  king  of  Oude,  he  has  now  got  rid  of  him, 
and  his  Jaghire  is  pretty  much  administered  according  to  the 
ancient  Indian  maxim: 

“ The  good  old  rule,  the  simple  plan^ 

That  they  should  take  who  have  the  power, 

And  they  should  keep  who  can  I” 

Rampoor  is  described  as  a large  town,  chiefly  remarkable  for 
’'the  sort  of  fortification  which  surrounds  it.  This  is  a high  thick 
hedge,  or  rather  plantation  of  bamboos,  set  as  close  to  each  other 
as  possible,  and  faced  on  the  outside  by  a formidable  underwood 
of  cactus  and  babool.  The  only  places  of  entrance  are  narrow 
paths  defended  by  strong  wooden  barriers,  and  the  defence  is  one 
which,  against  irregular  troops,  is  said  to  be  extremely  efficient, 
since  neither  cavalry  nor  infantry  can  be  brought  up  to  act  against 
an  enemy  whom  they  cannot  see,  but  who  fire  at  them  from  be- 
tween the  stems  of  the  bamboos,  under  cover  of  tiie  thorny  and 
almost  impenetrable  bushes  without. 

December  13. — This  morning  we  left  Moradabad,  and  marched 
ten  short  coss,  about  sixteen  miles,  to  Tyleepoor,  a paltry  little 
village,  at  a considerable  distance  from  the  necessary  supplies, 
but  which  was  the  best  halting  place  within  our  reach : that  laid 
down  in  Baton’s  route  being  above  twenty  miles,  a distance  too 
great  to'  march  without  some  real  necessity.  There  is  a good 
deal  of  waste  land  between  Moradabad  and  Tyleepoor,  and  the 
soil  seems  poor  and  barren.  There  are  also  some  marshy  pools, 
and  we  forded  a small  river. 

I had  another  sepoy  very  feverish  to-day,  and  suspect  that  he 
had  been  ill  some  time,  and  had  concealed  it  for  fear  of  the  hos- 
pital. I know  not  whether  fortunately  or  otherwise,  they  have 
acquired  a marvellous  opinion  of  my  medical  skill.  This  renders 
them  very  willing  to  take  my  remedies,  but  it  may  lead  them  to 
trust  to  me  too  far.  I gave  this  man  a dose  of  calomel  and  jalap, 
being  afraid  of  James’s  powder,  as  it  was  near  night,  and  he  had 
to  march  next  day. 

I read  Hindoostanee  prayers  this  evening  with  Abdullah  and 
the  new  catechumen,  Jaffier  Beg,  who  has  rather  risen  in  my 
favourable  opinion.  He  has  evidently  taken  a good  deal  of  pains 
in  studying  the  four  Gospels,  the  only  Christian  books  which  he 
has  yet  seen  ; and  his  questions  were  very  numerous.  He  joined 
in  the  Lord’s  Prayer  with  much  seeming  devotion,  and  said  he 


MUHAISNA. 


431 


understood  the  other  prayers  which  1 read.  1 am,  however, 
vexed  morje  and  more  at  the  little  ground  which  I gain  in  the 
language ; and  at  the  little  time  which  I have  for  improving  my- 
self. i^et  the  one  is  the  consequence  of  the  other;  and  for  the 
last  1 have  no  remedy,  now  that  I have  neither  secretary  nor 
assistant,  and  have  so  much  of  my  day  taken  up  by  travelling  and 
the  necessary  preparations  for  travelling.  Lushington  and  Arch- 
deacon Corrie  were  considerable  helps  to  me  in  writing,  &c.  but 
I do  not  know  that  their  presence  at  all  forwarded  my  progress 
in  Hindoostanee. 

December  14. — This  day’s  march  was  ten  coss,  to  a small  and 
poor  village  named  Muhaisna ; where  we  had  some  difficulty  in 
obtaining  supplies,  and  found  the  ryuts  disposed  to  grumble  and 
be  uncivil.  One  of  the  men,  who  was  fiercest  and  loudest,  was 
a remarkable  tall  and  fine-looking  young  man,  with  a silver  brace- 
let of  a singular  form  on  his  arm,  which  struck  me  from  its  classical 
character,  being  two  serpents  twined  together.  They  complained 
that  hay  had  been  taken  without  paying  for  it,  which  did  not  ap- 
pear to  have  been  the  case ; and  at  last  the  principal  farmer  of 
the  village  owned  that  their  outcries  were  from  fear  of  what  would 
be  taken,  rather  than  from  any  mischief  which  my  people  had 
already  done. 

In  our  way  we  passed  through  the  outskirts  of  Amroah,  a con- 
siderable town,  with  some  neat  mosques  and  extensive  gardens, 
with  walls  and  summer-houses,  and  surrounded  with  large  plan- 
tations of  sugar  and  cotton.  The  generality  of  the  country,  how- 
ever, is  poor,  sterile,  and  ill  inhabited,  with  more  waste  land 
than  is  usual  in  India.  The  sown  land,  too,  appeared  suffering 
exceedingly  from  drought,  which,  indeed,  is  the  case  with  all 
Rohilcund. 

This  station  of  Muhaisna  was  a bad  one  in  another  respect. 
The  only  grove  of  trees  was  on  a broken  piece  of  ground  inter- 
sected with  gullies,  and  so  overgrown  with  weeds  that  the  tents 
could  not  be  pitched  there ; and  I was  obliged  to  encamp  on  the 
plain  near  two  fine  peepul-trees,  which,  however,  were  by  no 
means  sufficient  for  the  comfort  of  the  people,  and  the  numerous 
animals  of  our  cofila.  The  groves  of  fruit-trees  are  the  surest 
marks,  I think,  of  prosperity  about  an  Indian  village ; and  in  this 
part  of  Rohilcund  their  rarity,  and,  generally  speaking,  their  insig- 
nificant size,  show  that  the  land  is  either  naturally  almost  irre- 
claimable, or  that,  lying  near  the  Ganges,  and  the  frontier  exposed 
to  the  usual  stream  of  invasion,  the  country  has  not  recovered  the 
horrors  of  that  time,  when  the  Maharatta  was  their  near  and 
triumphant  neighbour.  A strong  proof  of  the  recollection  which 
the  calamities  of  that  time  has  left  behind  is,  that  when  the  people 
of  Bareilly  were  informed  not  long  since  that  the  money  raised  by 


432 


TIGHREE. 


internal  duties  was  to  be  laid  out  for  the  improvement  of  their 
town,  they  expressed  a general  wish  that  their  walls  might  be 
repaired.  On  asking  “ what  enemies  they  feared  ?”  they  replied 
that  all  was  quiet  at  the  moment,  but  they  could  not  tell  but  the 
Maharattas  might  one  day  return. 

I had  more  applications  to-day  for  medicine,  and,  putting  wor- 
rying in  place  of  beating,  found  I was  in  as  fair  a way  to  be  forced 
into  considering  myself  an  able  physician  as  Sgagnarelle,  in  the 
Medecin  malgre  lui.  The  sepoy  declared  himself  quite  well ; 
which  emboldened  one  of  his  comrades  to  complain  of  being 
feverish ; and  a ryut,  hearing  the  application,  came  forward  also 
to  beg  something  for  sore  eyes.  He  was  not,  however,  content 
with  my  medical  aid,  for  immediately  afterwards  he  said  in  a low 
tone  that  a man  had  been  killed  in  the  village  of  which  he  was 
thannadar,  and  he  should  get  into  trouble  unless  1 stood  his  friend ! 

The  weather  was  so  cool  and  cloudy  that  I hoped  rain  was 
coming ; I did  not  indeed  wish  for  a decided  fall  before  I got  into 
Meerut,  yet  even  this  I would  have  gladly  borne,  to  see  the  poor 
dry  clods  moist  and  hopeful. 

December  15. — This  morning  we  came,  a march  of  eight  coss, 
to  a village  named  Tighree.  Half-way  we  passed  another  village 
named  Gujrowlie,  with  a tolerable  serai,  where  one  of  my  horses 
had  been  sent  on  before  to  giv6  me  the  advantage  of  a change,  as 
usual  in  Indian  travelling.  The  country  thus  far  was  cultivated, 
not  well,  nor  fully,  but  still  there  were  marks  of  cultivation,  though 
every  thing  was  grievously  parched  for  want  of  rain.  The  re- 
mainder of  the  distance  lay  through  a desolate  tract,  once  evident- 
ly well  inhabited,  as  was  apparent  by  the  few  palm-trees  scattered 
up  and  down,  but  now,  and  probably  for  many  years,  waste  and 
overgrown  with  high  grass-jungle. 

Tighree  itself  is  a poor  place,  a small  village,  with  a few  patches 
of  corn  round  it,  in  the  midst  of  the  wilderness,  without  any  tree, 
except  one  or  two  scattered  palms,  and  scarcely  space  enough 
between  the  young  wheat  and  the  jungle  to  admit  of  our  encamp- 
ment. The  day  was  hot,  and  the  people  and  animals  suffered  a 
good  deal  for  want  of  shade,  added  to  which,  all  our  supplies  were 
to  come  from  Gurmukteser,  a distance  of  three  coss,  so  that  it 
was  almost  noon  before  either  grass  for  the  horses,  or  fuel  or  food 
for  the  men  arrived,  and  much  later  before  the  poor  camels  and 
elephants  got  their  boughs.  The  jemautdar,  however,  and  tus- 
seldar  of  Gurmukteser,  were  civil,  and,  at  length,  furnished  us 
with  every  thing,  except  that  the  kid  which  they  sent  had  the  rot 
and  was  uneatable.  There  was  no  fire-wood  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, but  the  tusseldar  sent  a cart-load  of  dung-cakes,  and  would 
take  no  repayment,  saying  it  was  no  more  than  dustoor.  There 
was  little  to  tempt  me  out  here,  and  it  was  more  from  dustoor. 


HINDOO  YOGIS. 


433 


than  any  thing  else,  that  I walked  in  the  evening  to  see  the  vil- 
lage, which  I found  neat,  though  small  and  poor.  The  cottages 
in  Upper  India  have  generally  the  mud  walls  of  their  front  white- 
washed, and  a rude  painting  of  flowers  or  some  figures  of  men, 
animals,  or  divinities,  painted  on  each  side  of  their  doors,  a cir- 
cumstance which  I never  remarked  in  Bengal  or  Bahar,  and 
which  has  a lively  and  agreeable  effect.  They  have  also,  general- 
ly, on  one  side  of  this  door,  a small  platform  of  clay  beaten  hard, 
raised  about  a foot  and  swept  very  clean,  on  which  the  family 
usually  sit  in  the  cool  of  the  day,  and  where  at  such  times  their 
spinning  and  other  household  works  are  carried  on. 

The  jemautdar  of  Gurmukteser,  who  accompanied  me  in  this 
walk,  said  that  the  Ganges,  at  present,  was  distant  about  two 
coss ; but  that  during  the  rains  it  came  up  close  to  this  village. 
He  said  that  Tighree  and  the  jungles  round  it  were  celebrated  as 
hunting-ground  all  over  this  part  of  India ; that  there  was  great 
abundance  of  wild  hogs,  deer,  and  all  other  animals  except 
elephants.  These  require  a deeper  forest  and  large  trees,  both 
for  shelter  and  nourishment.  I asked  if  there  were  many  tigers. 
He  said  plenty;  but  that  there  was  a very  wonderful  thing  in  the 
neighbourhood ; that  there  were  two  Hindoo  Yogis,  who  lived  in 
different  cells  in  the  wilderness,  about  two  coss  from  the  village, 
in  opposite  directions,  of  whom  the  one  was  never  hurt  by  the 
tigers  though  living  in  the  neighbourhood  where  they  most 
abounded,  and  where  no  other  man  would  pass  a night  for  half 
Rohilcund  ; while,  to  the  other,  a tiger  actually  came  every  night 
and  licked  his  hands,  and  fondled  and  lay  by  him  for  hours.  At 
first,  from  my  imperfect  knowledge  of  the  language,  I fancied  it 
was  the  same  sort  of  story  which  I had  heard  concerning  the 
saint’s  tomb  at  Sicligully ; but  on  asking  if  it  was  where  the  Yogi 
was  buried,  he  explained  himself  very  clearly,  that  the  saint  was 
still  alive, — that  he  was  very  old,  and  went  quite  naked,  with  a 
long  white  beard  and  hair, — that  his  dwelling  was  a little  hut 
ampng  the  long  grass,  not  far  from  the  road  side,  in  the  way  to 
Gurmukteser,  and  that  there  were  people  who  had  been  there  at 
night  and  seen  him  and  his  tiger  together.  He  added  that  he 
lived  by  charity,  but  never  asked  for  any  thing  except  he  was 
actually  hungry,  which  was  seldom  the  case,  as,  from  his  high 
reputation,  he  was  generally  supplied.  1 asked  the  jemautdar  if 
he  had  seen  the  tiger.  He  answered  “ No,  because  he  had  never 
been  there  at  night,  but  that  there  was  no  doubt  of  the  fact.”  I 
asked,  “ If  I were  to  go  there  now,  (it  was  growing  dusk,)  should 
I see  him  ?”  He  answered  that  1 might  have  done  so,  if  the  holy 
man  had  been  at  home,  but  that  he  had  gone  the  day  before  to 
Amroah,  and  that  1 must  have  passed  him  on  the  road.  In  fact, 
the  saees  who  had  been  sent  on  to  Gujrowlie,  said  that  he  had 

VoL.  I. — 55 


434 


BOA  CONSTRICTOR. 


seen  a very  remarkable  bid  man,  answering  to  the  description 
given,  seated  in  a corner  of  the  serai  at  that  place.  The  jemautdar 
was  a Mussulman,  and  had  no  motive  for  swelling  the  praises  of 
a Hindoo  saint,  so  that  I have  little  doubt  that  he  himself  believed 
what  he  told  me,  nor,  indeed,  do  I think  the  fact  impossible,  or 
even  improbable.  Similar  stories  are  told  of  hermits  in  Syria, 
whose  cells  have  been  frequented  by  lions, — and  a lion  1 should 
conceive  to  be  as  formidable  a chum  as  a tiger;  and  it  certainly 
is  not  unlikely  that  a man,  with  no  other  occupation  or  amuse- 
ment, might  very  thoroughly  tame  a tiger’s  whelp,  so  as  to  retain 
a hold  on  its  affections,  and  to  restrain  it,  while  in  his  presence, 
from  hurting  others,  even  after  it  had  arrived  at  its  full  growth 
and  fierceness.  Every  animal  is,  ceteris  paribus,  fiercer  when 
tied  up  or  confined  ; yet  the  great  tiger  at  Barrackpoor  would,  I 
have  no  doubt,  allow  his  keeper  to  sleep  in  the  same  den  with  him ; 
in  a wilderness  abounding  with  hogs  and  deer,  there  would  be  little 
risk  of  the  tiger’s  coming  home  so  hungry  as  to  be  tempted  to 
attack  his  friend ; and  the  principal  danger  of  the  devotee  would  be 
from  the  rough  fondling  of  his  pet  when  he  was  two-thirds  grown. 
As  to  the  supposed  safety  of  the  rival  saint,  that  I conceive  to  be 
merely  luck,  added  to  the  fact  that,  except  a tiger  be  provoked, 
or  much  pressed  by  hunger,  or  have  once  tasted  human  flesh,  it 
seems  pretty  certain  that  he  seldom  attacks  a man. 

The  poor  sepoy  to  whom  I had  given  medicine  the  day  before, 
and  who  was  this  morning  reported  much  better,  was  again  at- 
tacked with  fever  at  night.  I gave  him  a rather  stronger  dose 
than  before,  but  by  no  means  felt  easy  about  him. 

1 am  not  sure  whether  I mentioned  in  their  proper  place  two 
curious  facts  which  were  told  me  in  Kemaoon  respecting  the 
forests  and  their  productions.  The  one  is,  that  fires  often  take 
place  in  the  jungles  during  the  dry  season,  by  the  mere  friction 
of  the  cane  stalks  against  each  other  in  high  winds.  This  was 
first  told  me  by  the  Raja  Gooman  Singh,  and  it  was  confirmed, 
at  least  as  being  the  usual  opinion  of  the  people,  by  Mr.  Tiiaill 
and  Sir  R.  Colquhoun.  A scene  of  this  sort,  and  arising  from 
this  cause,  is  described  in  Leyden’s  Scenes  of  Infancy,  but  I had 
always,  till  now,  supposed  that  the  poet’s  fancy,  rather  than  his 
reading,  had  been  his  prompter  here.  The  other  is,  that  the 
Boa  Constrictor  is  frequently  found,  particularly  in  the  wood 
between  Bamoury  and  Dikkalee,  under  the  immediate  feet  of  the 
hills.  These  snakes  are  of  enormous  size,  but  not  much  feared 
by  the  natives,  since  though  they  have,  in  their  opinion,  sufficient 
strength  to  master  a buffalo,  they  are  proportionably  unwieldy. 
Many  stories  are  told  here,  as  in  Surinam,  of  persons  stepping  on 
them  by  mistake  for  fallen  trees,  and  being  terrified  on  finding 
them  alive. 


ELEPHANTS  SWIMMING. 


435 


December  16. — ^From  Tighree  to  the  ferry  of  the  Ganges  is 
about  three  coss,  all  wild  jungle.  Half-way  we  passed  the  her- 
mitage of  the  tiger  saint,  a little  cottage  almost  buried  in  long 
grass,  but  both  larger  and  more  apparently  comfortable,  than, 
from  the  jemautdar’s  description,  I had  expected.  We  now  took 
leave  of  the  noble  Ganges,  not  again  to  see  it  till  our  return  by 
sea  to  Saugor  Island.  Even  here,  at  this  distance  from  the  sea, 
and  in  almost  the  driest  season  of  the  year,  it  is  a great  and 
mighty  river,  not  far  short,  as  1 think,  of  the  Thames  at  West- 
minster bridge.  During  the  rains  it  must,  judging  from  its  traces 
on  both  sides,  be  nearly  four  miles  across.  I had  frequently 
asked  military  men  whether  the  Ganges  was  any  way  fordable 
after  it  left  the  hills,  and  had,  as  usual  in  India,  received  con- 
tradictory and  unsatisfactory  answers,  but  the  impression  left 
on  my  mind  was,  that  it  was  fordable  both  at  Gurmukteser  and 
Anopshehr.  On  asking  the  jemautdar  and  ferrymen,  however, 
they  all  agreed  that  there  was  no  ford  in  its  whole  course. 
Here  there  certainly  was  not ; since,  as  the  boats  could  not 
receive  our  elephants,  and  they  tried  to  wade  through,  even 
they  were,  in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  compelled  to  swum,  a 
sight  which  I was  not  at  all  sorry  to  have  an  opportunity  of  see- 
ing. All  three  could  swim,  which  was  fortunate,  as  this  is  not 
alw^ays  the  case  with  them.  I did  not  think  that  the  one  which 
I remarked,  sank  so  deep  in  the  water  as  had  been  described  to 
me,  or  as  the  elephant  is  represented  as  doing  in  Captain  Wil- 
liamson’s print. 

In  the  course  of  this  day’s  march,  a circumstance  occurred 
which  proves,  I think,  how  much  the  people  of  this  country  look 
up  to  the  English  for  help  and  counsel  in  all  emergencies.  I was 
going  along  a jungly  piece  of  road,  for  all  this  day’s  march  as 
well  as  yesterday’s  was  more  or  less  jungly,  when  I saw  a little 
cluster  of  travellers  of  the  lower  class  surrounding  somebody  on 
the  ground.  As  soon  as  they  saw  me  they  immediately  ran  up, 
saying,  that  one  of  their  friends  was  sick,  and  they  begged  me  to 
look  at  him  and  give  him  medicine.  The  man,  as  it  turned  out, 
had  only  a little  cholic,  which  was  well  before  my  physic  chest 
arrived  to  enable  me  to  give  him  medicine.  But  what  struck  me, 
was  the  immediate  impulse  which  led  these  men  to  suppose,  on 
seeing  an  European  riding  along  the  road,  that  he  was  likely  to 
help  and  advise  them  ! Surely,  if  this  opinion  is  general,  it  must 
be  one  of  the  best  holds  we  have  on  our  Indian  empire. 

Shahjehanpoor,  a common  name  in  India,  is  a large  and  pic- 
turesque town  with  a ruined  castle,  several  mosques,  and  some 
large  and  fine  groves  and  pools  of  water.  I saw,  however,  but 
little  of  it,  for  1 had  a good  deal  of  business  during  the  day, 
getting  ready  my  letters  to  be  despatched  from  Meerut,  and  in  the 


436 


GIPSIES. 


evening  having  patients  again.  The  sepoys  indeed  were  well, 
but  two  ponies,  one  belonging  to  Mr.  Ford’s  Chuprassee,  the 
other,  a very  pretty  one,  to  Cashiram  the  goomashta,  were  taken 
exceedingly  ill.  The  causes  of  their  attack  were  variously 
stated,  but  I believe  that  the  saees  had  given  them  too  much  and 
too  acid  gram  immediately  after  their  journey.  They  had  both 
the  appearance  of  palsy  or  staggers,  had  lost  the  use  of  their  loins, 
reeled  to  and  fro,  and  at  length  fell.  Before  I heard  of  it  they 
had  given  them  brandy,  pepper,  and  I know  not  what,  and  when 
I saw  them  they  had  every  symptom  of  violent  inflammation  of 
the  bowels.  I advised  bleeding  immediately  ; nobody  could  do 
this  but  Abdullah,  and  there  was  no  proper  instrument  but  my 
penknife  ; while  I w^as  hunting  for  this,  one  of  the  horses  died, 
and  the  other  was  evidently  in  extremity.  Abdullah  opened  the 
usual  vein,  but  very  little  blood  would  run  ; in  fact,  they  had 
given  it  arrack  enough  to  kill  an  elephant.  It  died  in  the  course 
of  the  night,  and  all  which  gave  me  pleasure  in  the  business,  was 
the  exceeding  attachment  of  the  poor  saees  to  it.  He  wrung  his 
hands  over  it  as  if  it  had  been  his  brother,  sate  by  it,  supporting 
its  head,  and  rubbing  its  ears  and  neck,  till  life  was  actually  gone, 
and,  as  it  appeared,  it  was  his  ignorant  good-will  in  giving  too 
large  a feed  of  corn,  which  had  done  the  mischief.  Cashiram 
bore  his  loss  very  well,  and  said  not  a single  cross  word  to  his 
servant  the  whole  time.  I wish  all  Christians  might  have  behaved 
with  as  much  propriety. 

December  17. — To-day  we  went  six  coss  to  Mow,  a poor  vil- 
lage without  trees,  where,  however,  by  the  advantage  of  a firman 
from  the  collector  of  Meerut,  and  of  a very  civil  tusseldar,  w^e 
got  supplies  in  abundance,  and  were  allowed  to  pay  for  nothing. 
In  the  afternoon  a large  troop  of  gipsies,  as  I and  all  my  people 
thought  they  were,  though  they  themselves  disowned  the  term, 
came  to  the  camp.  They  said  they  came  from  Ahmedabad  in 
Guzerat,  were  going  on  pilgrimage  to  the  Ganges,  and  had  .been 
eight  months  on  their  road.  They  pretended  at  first  to  be  brah- 
mins, to  the  great  scandal  and  indignation  of  Cashiram,  who  is  a 
brahmin,  and  reproved  them  with  much  austerity  for  their  pre- 
sumption. 1 asked  them  to  show  their  “ strings,”  on  which  they 
confessed  they  had  none,  but  still  persisted  that  they  were  Raj- 
poots. “ Tell  me  the  truth,”  said  I,  “ are  you  Bheels  ?”  the  name 
of  the  wild  mountaineers  near  Ahmedabad.  My  people  laughed 
at  this  question,  and  said  they  certainly  were  Bheels  and  nothing 
else.  They,  however,  stiffly  denied  it.  They  were  very  merry, 
but  very  poor  wretches,  nearly  naked,  and  the  leanest  specimens 
of  human  life  I have  ever  seen;  so  wretched,  indeed,  was  their 
poverty,  that,  I immediately  sent  for  a supply  of  pice  to  dis- 
tribute among  them,  pending  the  arrival  of  which,  a man  and 


THUaS. 


437 


woman,  who  seemed  the  Tramezzani  and  Catalan!  of  the  party, 
came  forwards,  and  sung  two  or  three  songs,  the  man  accompa- 
nying them  on  a vina,  a small  guitar  like  the  Russian  balalaika. 
Theiiv voices  were  really  good,  and  though  they  sung  in  the  vile 
cracked  tone  which  street-singers  have  all  the  world  over,  the 
effect  was  not  unpleasant ; but  it  was  a strange  and  melancholy 
thing  to  hear  a love  song,  expressive,  so  far  as  I could  catch  the 
words,  of  rapture  and  mutual  admiration,  trilled  out  by  two 
ragged  wretches,  weather-beaten,  lean,  and  smoke-dried.  The 
poor  little  children,  though  quite  naked,  seemed  the  best  fed,  and 
I thought  they  seemed  kind  to  them,  though  one  old  man  who 
was  the  head  of  the  party,  and  had  an  infant  slung  in  a dirty 
cloth,  like  a hammock,  to  a stick,  which  he  carried  in  his  hand^ 
held  it  carelessly  enough ; insomuch  that,  till  I asked  him  what 
he  had  in  his  bundle,  and  he  opened  his  cloth  to  show  me,  1 did 
not  suppose  it  was  a child.  1 gave  them  an  ana  each,  children 
and  all,  with  which  they  went  to  buy  ghee  and  flour  in  the  village, 
and  soon  after  made  a fire  under  a neighbouring  peepul-tree.  I 
saw  them  in  the  course  of  the  evening  at  their  meal,  and  one  of 
the  collector’s  suwarrs  said  he  heard  them  pray  for  me  before  they 
sat  down.  I should  have  fancied  them  very  harmless  poor 
creatures,  or  at  worst,  only  formidable  to  hen-roosts,  and  in  such 
petty  thefts  as  gipsies  practise  in  England.  But  I find  these 
rambling  parties  of  self-called  pilgrims  bear  a very  bad  charac- 
ter in  Hindostan.  They  are  often  described  as  “ Thugs,”  the 
name  given  to  the  practice  of  which  they  are  accused,  that, 
namely,  of  attaching  themselves,  on  different  pretences,  to  single 
travellers  or  small  parties,  and  watching  their  opportunity  to  fling 
a rope  with  a slip-knot  over  the  heads  of  their  victims,  with  which 
they  drag  them  from  their  horses,  and  strangle  them.  So  nimbly 
and  with  such  fatal  aim  are  they  said  to  do  this,  they  seldom  miss, 
and  leave  no  time  to  the  traveller,  to  draw  a sword,  use  a gun, 
or  in  any  way  defend  or  disentangle  himself.  The  wretches 
who  practise  this  are  very  numerous  in  Guzerat  and  Malwah, 
but  when  they  occur  in  Hindostan  are  generally  from  the 
south-eastern  provinces.  My  poor  gipsies,  I hope,  as  they  ap- 
peared at  least  grateful,  were  not  monsters  of  this  atrocious 
description. 


438 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


MEERUT  TO  DELHI. 

SITUATION  OF  MEERUT CHURCH CONSECRATION VALLEY  OP  THE 

DHOON CONDOR ANECDOTE  OF  BEGUM  SUMROO— SCHOOL HOSPITAL 

CONFIRMATION SURGEON  APPOINTED SKINNER’s  HORSE HEAVY 

RAIN DELHI ^TOMB  OF  HUMAIOON AQUEDUCT FIROZE’s  WALK- 
ING-STICK  IMMENSE  EXTENT  OF  RUINS SHAWL  MANUFACTORY 

JUMNA  MUSJEED PRESENTATION  TO  THE  EMPEROR PALACE 

KOOTTAB-SAHIB PRESENT  FROM  THE  BEGUM LATE  AND  PRESENT 

EMPERORS  OP  DELHI. 

December  1 8. — This  morning  I proceeded  to  Meerut,  and  was 
met  at  a little  distance  from  the  town  by  Mr.  Fisher,  the  chaplain, 
(whom  1 had  once,  many  years  ago,  heard  preach  at  Knaresbo- 
rough,)  and  two  of  his  sons,  one  a chaplain  in  the  Company’s  es- 
tablishment, the  other  a lieutenant  in  the  same  service,  and  some 
officers  of  the  troops  in  garrison,  an  accession  of  society  which 
put  Cabul  into  such  high  spirits,  that  1 almost  thought  he  would 
have  shamed  me,  as  he  neighed  like  a trumpeter,  lashed  out  all 
ways,  reared,  jumped  with  all  four  feet  from  the  ground,  and  did 
every  other  coltish  trick  which  could  show  his  surprise,  and  tend 
to  discompose  the  gravity  of  his  rider.  He  has,  however,  no  real 
vice,  and  his  transports  gradually  subsided. 

I pitched  my  tent,  by  Mr.  Fisher’s  invitation,  in  his  compound, 
which  is  an  unusually  large  one.  Two  other  sepoys  were  this 
day  added  to  the  sick-list,  and,  with  my  former  patient,  removed 
to  the  hospital,  whither  I sent  with  them  a recommendation  to  the 
good  offices  of  the  surgeon,  and  directed,  since  I was  myself  to 
stay  some  time  in  the  place,  that  one  of  their  comrades  should  go 
every  day  to  see  that  they  wanted  nothing. 

Meerut  is  a very  extensive  cantonment,  but  less  widely  scat- 
tered than  Cawnpoor.  The  native  town,  too,  on  which  it  is  en- 
grafted, is  much  less  considerable.  It  stands  advantageously  on  a 
wide  and  dry  plain,  all  in  pasture,  which  would  afford  delightful 
riding-ground,  if  it  were  not,  like  the  steppes  of  Russia,  which  it 
much  resembles,  very  full  of  holes  made  by  the  small  marmot, 
which  is  common  there,  and  called  “ suslik.”  Its  Hindoostanee 
name  I have  not  learned.  A small  nullah,  with  a handsome 
bridge  over  it,  runs  through  the  town.  When  I saw  it,  it  was 
quite  dry,  and  the  bridge  seemed  absurd;  but  Mr.  Fisher  said  that. 


MEERUT—CONDOR. 


439 


during  the  rainy  months,  it  was  not  a bit  longer  than  was  neces- 
sary. The  church  is  much  the  largest  which  I have  seen  in  India. 
It  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  eighty-four  wide,  and,  being 
galleried  all  round,  may  hold  at  least  three  thousand  people.  It 
has  a high  and  handsome  spire,  and  is  altogether  a striking  build- 
ing, too  good  for  the  materials  of  which  it  is  composed,  which, 
like  the  rest  of  the  public  buildings  of  this  country,  are  only  bad 
brick  covered  with  stucco  and  whitewash.  It  is  the  work  of 
Captain  Hutchinson. 

December  19. — The  church,  which  I have  described,  was  con- 
secrated this  day  with  the  usual  forms.  The  congregation  was 
very  numerous  and  attentive,  the  singing  considerably  better  than 
at  Calcutta,  and  the  appearance  of  every  thing  highly  honourable 
both  to  the  chaplain  and  military  officers  of  this  important  station. 
I had  the  gratification  of  hearing  my  own  hymns,  “ Brightest  and 
best,”  and  that  for  St.  Stephen’s  day,  sung  better  than  I ever 
heard  them  in  a church  before.  It  is  a remarkable  thing,  that 
one  of  the  earliest,  the  largest,  and  handsomest  churches  in  India, 
as  well  as  one  of  the  best  organs,  should  he  found  in  so  remote  a 
situation,  and  in  sight  of  the  Himalaya  mountains.  The  evening 
service  was  very  well  attended,  and  this  is  the  more  creditable, 
inasmuch,  as  I have  elsewhere  observed,  all  who  then  come  are 
volunteers,  whereas  attendance  in  the  morning  is  a part  of  military 
parade. 

I had  heard  Meerut  praised  for  its  comparative  freedom  from 
hot  winds,  but  do  not  find  that  the  residents  confirm  this  state- 
ment: they  complain  of  them  quite  as  much  as  the  people  of 
Cawnpoor,  and  acknowledge  the  inferiority  of  their  climate  in 
this  respect  to  that  of  Rohilcund.  The  beautiful  valley  of  the 
Dhoon,  since  its  conquest  by  the  British,  affords  a retreat  to  their 
sick  which  they  seem  to  value  highly ; and  it  has  the  advantage 
of  being  accessible  without  danger  at  all  times ; but,  except 
during  the  dry  months,  even  this  lovely  valley  is  not  wholesome. 
Mr.  Fisher  had  some  drawings  of  different  parts  of  the  Dhoon, 
which  represented  scenery  of  very  great  beauty  and  luxuriance, 
on  a smaller  and  less  awful  scale  than  Kemaoon.  The  animals 
seem  much  the  same ; hut  Lieutenant  Fisher  gave  me  a fuller 
account  than  1 had  yet  received  of  the  eagle,  or,  as  from  his  state- 
ment it  rather  seems  to  be,  the  condor,  of  these  mountains.  It 
appears  to  belong  to  this  latter  tribe  from  the  bareness  of  its  neck, 
which  resembles  that  of  the  vulture,  and  the  character  of  its  beak, 
which  is  longer  and  less  hooked  than  the  eagle’s,  and  perhaps, 
too,  from  its  size,  which  exceeds  that  of  any  eagle  of  which  1 have 
heard.  Lieutenant  Fisher  shot  one  very  lately  at  Degra,  which 
measured  thirteen  feet  between  the  tips  of  its  extended  wings,  and 
had  talons  eight  inches  long.  He  was  of  a deep  black  colour. 


440 


BEGUM  SUMROO. 


^vith  a bald  head  and  neck,  and  appears  strongly  to  resemble  the 
noble  bird  described  by  Bruce  as  common  among  the  mountains 
of  Abyssinia,  under  the  name  of  “ Nisser.”  This  is,  no  doubt, 
the  bird  which  carries  away  the  children  from  the  streets  of 
Almorah.  The  one  which  Mr.  Fisher  shot  could,  he  was  sure, 
have  carried  up  a very  well-grown  boy.  Nor  have  1 any  doubt 
that  it  is  the  “ rok”  of  the  Arabians.  In  Sindbad’s  Way  of  telling 
a story,  so  formidable  an  animal  might  be  easily  magnitied  into  all 
which  that  ingenious  voyager  has  handed  down  to  us  concerning 
his  giant  bird. 

December  20.— I observed  this  morning,  at  the  gate  of  Mr. 
Fisher’s  compound,  a sentry  in  the  strict  oriental  costume,  of 
turban  and  long  caftan,  but  armed  with  musket  and  bayonet,  like 
our  own  sepoys.  He  said  he  was  one  of  the  Begum  Sumroo’s 
regiment,  out  of  which  she  is  bound  to  furnish  a certain  number 
for  the  police  of  Meerut  and  its  neighbourhood.  Her  residence 
is  in  the  centre  of  her  own  jaghire  at  Sirdhana,  about  twelve  coss 
from  Meerut;  but  she  has  a house  in  this  place  where  she 
frequently  passes  a considerable  time  together.  She  is  a very 
little,  queer-looking  old  woman,  with  brilliant,  but  wicked  eyes, 
and  the  remains  of  beauty  in  her  features.  She  is  possessed  of 
considerable  talent  and  readiness  in  conversation,  but  only  speaks 
Hindoostanee.  Her  soldiers  and  people,  and  the  generality  of  the 
inhabitants  of  this  neighbourhood,  pay  her  much  respect  on  account 
both  of  her  supposed  wisdom  and  her  courage ; she  having,  during 
the  Maharatta  wars,  led,  after  her  husband’s  death,  his  regiment 
very  gallantly  into  action,  herself  riding  at  their  head,  into  a heavy 
fire  of  the  enemy.  She  is,  however,  a sad  tyranness,  and,  having 
the  power  of  life  and  death  within  her  own  little  territory,  several 
stories  are  told  of  her  cruelty,  and  the  noses  and  ears  which  she 
orders  to  be  cut  off.  One  relation  of  this  kind,  according  to  na- 
tive reports,  on  which  reliance,  however,  can  rarely  be  placed, 
is  very  horrid.  One  of  her  dancing  girls  had  offended  her,  how 
I have  not  heard.  The  Begum  ordered  the  poor  creature  to  be 
immured  alive  in  a small  vault  prepared  for  the  purpose  under 
the  pavement  of  the  saloon  where  the  natch  was  then  celebrating, 
and,  being  aware  that  her  fate  excited  much  sympathy  and  horror 
in  the  minds  of  the  servants  and  soldiers  of  her  palace,  and  appre- 
hensive that  they  would  open  the  tomb  and  rescue  the  victim  as 
soon  as  her  back  was  turned,  she  saw  the  vault  bricked  up  before 
her  own  eyes,  then  ordered  her  bed  to  be  placed  directly  over  it, 
and  lay  there  for  several  nights,  till  the  last  faint  moans  had  ceased 
to  be  heard,  and  she  was  convinced  that  hunger  and  despair  had 
done,  their  work.  This  woman  calls  herself  a Christian,  of  the 
Roman  Catholic  faith,  which  was  that  of  her  husband  Summers. 
(“  Sumroo”  is  the  Hindoostanee  pronunciation  of  the  German 


MEERUT. 


441 


surname.)  She  has  a Roman  Catholic  priest  as  her  chaplain,  and 
has  lately  begun  to  build  a very  large  and  handsome  church  at 
Sirdhana,  which  will  rival,  if  not  excel,  that  of  Meerut  in  size  and 
architectural  beauty. 

1 dined  this  day  with  General  Reynell.  His  aide-de-camp, 
Captain  Meade,  is  a very  accomplished  artist,  and  showed  me  a 
portfolio  of  splendid  drawings ; some  of  them  were  from  views  in 
the  Dhoon,  and  the  mountains  near  Sabathoo.  These  last  bear 
some  resemblance  to  those  of  Kemaoon,  which  they  nearly  equal 
in  height,  but  the  snowy  range  of  Himalaya  is  removed  to  a much 
greater  distance,  and  only  visible  from  the  tops  of  the  highest  hills. 
The  lower,  parts  of  the  Dhoon  seem  as  like  Wales  as  possible. 

December  21. — I went  with  Mr.  Fisher  to-day  to  a school  which 
he  has  established  in  the  old  city  of  Meerut;  I had  previously  seen 
this  very  imperfectly,  but  I now  found  it  larger  than  I expected, 
with  a ruined  wall  and  fort,  and  some  good  architectural  remains 
of  mosques  and  pagodas.  The  school  is  well  managed,  and  nu- 
merously attended.  The  boys  are  taught  reading  and  writing  in 
Hindoostanee  and  Persian,  and  receive,  such  of  them  as  desire  it, 
which  they  all  do,  instruction  in  the  Gospels.  They  read  fluently, 
and  construed  Persian  very  well.  Their  master  is  a Christian 
convert  of  Mr.  Fisher’s.  1 also  went  to  the  native  hospital  to  see 
the  three  sick  sepoys,  two  of  whom  I found  much  better,  the  third 
still  ill.  They  seemed  very  grateful  for  the  visit,  and  said  that 
they  were  well  treated,  and  wanted  nothing.  Mr.  Lowther,  the 
judge  and  magistrate  of  Bundishehr,  with  his  wife,  passed  the 
evening  at  Mr.  Fisher’s.  They  pressed  me,  which  1 should  have 
liked  much,  to  take  their  station  in  my  way  from  Delhi  to  Agra. 
But  Muttra  is  too  important  a place  to  be  passed  by,  and  this 
would  be  the  necessary  consequence  of  my  accepting  their  invi- 
tation. 

December  22. — 1 went  with  Mr.  Fisher  to  a small  congregation 
of  native  Christians,  to  whom,  not  being  able  to  give  them  a 
service  on  Sunday,  he  reads  prayers  and  preaches  on  this  day. 
About  twenty  people  were  present,  one  the  “ Naick,”  or  corporal, 
whom,  in  consequence  of  his  embracing  Christianity,  Government 
very  absurdly,  not  to  say  wickedly,  disgraced  by  removing  him 
from  his  regiment,  though  they  still  allow  him  his  pay.  He  is  a 
tall,  stout,  plain-looking  man,  with  every  appearance  of  a respect- 
able and  well-behaved  soldier.  Another  was  Anund  Musseeh,  a 
convert  of  Mr.  Corrie’s,  who  has  a good  deal  distinguished  him- 
self as  a catechist  at  Delhi,  and  on  whom  Mr.  Fisher  wants  me  to 
confer  ordination.  He  is  a tall,  coarse-looking  man,  without  much 
intellect  in  his  countenance,  but  is  said  to  be  very  eloquent  and 
well-informed,  so  far  as  a knowledge  of  Hindoostanee  and  Persian 

VoL.  1.— 56 


442 


MEERUT. 


enables  him.  1 had,  afterwards,  repeated  conversations  with  hinv, 
and  was  pleased  by  his  unassuming  and  plain  manner. 

December  23. — This  morning  I breakfasted  with  General  Rey- 
nell.  In  the  evening  Mr.  Fisher  read  prayers  and  preached  to  a 
tolerably  numerous  congregation,  it  being  his  custom  to  have 
service  of  this  kind  every  Wednesday  and  Friday. 

December  24. — -This  day  I confirmed  above  250  people,  young 
and  old,  of  whom  between  40  and  50  were  natives  converted 
to  Christianity  by  Mr.  Fisher.  Surely  all  this  is  what  we  could 
hardly  expect  in  so  remote  a part  of  India,  and  where  no  English- 
man had  set  his  foot  till  the  conquests  made  by  Lord  Lake  and 
Sir  Arthur  Wellesley.  The  rest  of  the  day  I was  busy  writing 
letters.  The  sepoy  whom  I had  left  sick  at  Moradabad  rejoined 
me ; but  the  camel-driver,  he  said,  was  still  very  dangerously  ill. 
The  men  who  were  in  the  hospital  at  Meerut,  were  declared 
convalescent. 

December  25. — Christmas-Day.  A very  large  congregation, 
and  above  200  communicants. 

December  26. — I preached,  and  after  evening  service  confirmed 
twelve  persons,  who  had  not  been  able  to  attend  on  the  Friday. 

December  27. — I received  a present  of  fruit  from  the  Begum 
Sumroo,  together  with  a civil  message,  expressing  a hope  to  see 
me  at  Sirdhana,  to  which  I returned  an  answer  in  an  English 
letter.  Though  she  herself  does  not  understand  the  language, 
she  has  many  people  about  her  who  do,  particularly  Colonel 
Bryce,  who  acts  as  a sort  of  resident  at  her  court.  My  tents  and 
servants  set  off  this  evening. 

I received  a very  kind  offer  from  General  Reynell  to  assign 
me  a medical  attendant  in  my  march  to  Bombay,  there  being  a 
Dr.  Smith  at  the  time  in  Meerut,  who  had  just  come  with  a de- 
tachment of  troops  from  Mhow,  and  was  not  attached  to  any 
specific  service  there ; he  was  highly  recommended  as  an  able 
man,  and  one  who,  by  his  local  knowledge,  would  be  very  useful 
to  me  in  my  journey.  1 had  suffered  so  much  during  my  residence 
at  Dacca,  and  subsequently  in  my  own  illness,  and  when  my 
escort  and  servants  were  attacked  with  the  fever  in  Kemaoon,  " 
for  want  of  a medical  attendant,  that  I felt  extremely  glad  of  such 
an  offer.  Indeed,  with  upwards  of  a hundred  people  in  my  train, 
and  on  the  point  of  commencing  a journey  through  countries  of 
the  wildest  character,  where  no  medical  assistance  could  be  ob- 
tained in  marches  of,  in  one  instance,  twenty-four,  and  in  another 
of  twenty-three  days,  such  a precaution  is  most  necessary  and 
reasonable. 

December  28. — I set  off  from  Meerut  by  Dak,  as  far  as  Be- 
gumabad,  a large  village  foiming  a part  of  the^  jaghirc  of  a 


APPROACH  TO  DELHI. 


443 


Maharatta  princess,  under  the  protection  of  the  English  govern- 
ment. Here  1 mounted  Nedjeed — did  I ever  tell  you  the  name  of 
my  little  Arab  horse  before  ? — and  pursued  my  journey,  escorted 
by  five  of  Colonel  Skinner’s  irregular  cavalry,  the  most  showy  and 
picturesque  cavaliers  I have  seen  since  I was  in  the  south  of 
Russia.  They  had  turbans  of  dark  red  shawl,  long  yellow  caf- 
tans, with  dark  red  cummerbunds,  and  trowsers  of  the  same 
colour.  The  commander  of  the  party  had  a long  spear,  with  a 
small  yellow  pennon,  the  others  had  each  a long  matchlock-gun, 
which  they  carried  on  the  right  shoulder,  with  the  match  ready 
lighted.  They  had  all,  likewise,  pistols,  swords,  and  shields,  and 
their  caftans  and  turbans  so  strongly  quilted,  as  to  secure  them 
against  most  sabre-cuts.  Their  horses  were  very  tolerable  in 
size  and  appearance,  but  hot  and  vicious,  and  the  whole  caval- 
cade had  an  appearance  remarkably  wild  and  Oriental.  They 
are  reckoned,  by  all  the  English  in  this  part  of  the  country,  the 
most  useful  and  trusty,  as  well  as  the  boldest  body  of  men  in 
India ; and  during  the  wars  both  of  Lord  Lake  and  Lord  Hastings, 
their  services  and  those  of  their  chief  were  most  distinguished. 
Colonel  Alexander  Skinner  is  a good  and  modest,  as  well  as  a 
brave  man.  He  has  just  devoted  20,000  sicca  rupees  to  build  a 
church  at  Delhi.  Unfortunately  I shall  not  meet  him  there,  as 
he  is  now  on  the  frontier  with  most  of  his  men,  fighting  the  re- 
bellious clans  of  Seiks  and  Mewatties.  The  Hindoostanees,  who 
respect  him  very  highly,  call  him  by  a whimsical  but  not  ill- 
applied  corruption  of  his  name,  “ Seconder  Sahib,”  Lord 
Alexander. 

My  tents  had  gone  on  to  the  next  station,  Furrucknuggur,  but 
I was  met  on  the  road  thither  by  Mr.  Charles  Elliott,  son  of  the 
Resident  at  Delhi,  and  assistant  collector  of  Meerut,  a 'clever 
young  man  whom  I had  met  at  Mr.  Fisher’s,  who  pressed  me  to 
come  and  pass  the  day  with  him  in  his  tent  at  Gaziodeen-nuggur, 
a small  ruinous  walled  town  ; we  did  not  reach  his  encampment 
' till  near  12  o’clock  at  noon.  But  the  sun  here,  though  hot,  is 
at  this  season  not  mischievous,  and  I passed  a pleasant  day. 
After  dinner  I had  a moonlight  ride  over  a very  rough  and  broken 
country,  and  through  a river,  to  my  tent.  The  ford  was  not  deep, 
but  so  wide  that  if  I had  not  had  people  with  me  who  knew  the 
country,  1 should  have  hesitated  to  essay  it  by  such  a light.  I 
had  no  sooner  got  into  my  tent  than  it  began  to  rain,  and  during 
the  night  fell  with  a violence  not  very  much  less  than  that  which 
preceded  my  arrival  at  Cawnpoor;  a great  and  providential 
blessing  to  this  miserable  country,  the  most  miserable  which  I had 
yet  seen  in  India.  All  the  way  from  Meerhut  hither  is  scattered 
with  ruins,  the  groves  of  fruit-trees  are  few,  small,  and  neglected, 
the  villages  very  mean,  the  people  looking  half-starved,  and  quite 


444 


DELHI. 


heart-broken,  and  the  cultivation,  always,  apparently,  of  the  most 
slovenly  kind,  now  quite  interrupted  by  the  long  drought.  This 
rain,  it  was  hoped,  would  yet  save  the  poor  surviving  cattle,  and 
keep  the  wheat  from  an  entire  failure.  They  have  had  not  above 
three  slight  showers  during  the  last  twelve  months ! This,  of 
course,  will  account  for  the  greater  part  of  their  present  distress, 
but  I have  been  sorry  to  think  that  the  English  taxes  are  really 
exorbitant  here,  and  the  mode  of  collection  short-sighted  and  op- 
pressive. Certainly  the  people  are  more  inferior,  in  apparent 
comfort,  to  those  of.Rohilcund,  Bahar,  and  even  Oude,  than  a long 
drought  will  of  itself  account  for. 

December  29. — The  morning  was  clear  and  pleasant,  and  the 
air  and  soil  delightfully  refreshed  by  the  rain.  I rode  Cabul, 
and  arrived  by  about  eight  o’clock  on  the  banks  of  the  Jumna,  on 
the  other  side  of  which  I had  a noble  view  of  Delhi,  which  is  a 
larger  and  finer  city  than  I expected  to  see.  The  inhabited  part 
of  it,  for  the  ruins  extend  over  a surface  as  large  as  London, 
Westminster,  and  Southwark,  is  about  seven  miles  in  circuit, 
seated  on  a rocky  range  of  hills,  and  surrounded  by  an  embattled 
w^all,  which  the  English  Government  have  put  into  repair,  and 
are  now  engaged  in  strengthening  with  bastions,  a moat,  and  a 
regular  glacis.  The-  houses  within  are  many  of  them  large  and 
high.  There  are  a great  number  of  mosques  with  high  minarets 
and  gilded  domes,  and  above  all  are  seen  the  palace,  a very  high 
and  extensive  cluster  of  gothic  towers  and  battlements,  and  the 
Jumna  Musjeed,  the  largest  and  handsomest  place  of  Mussulman 
worship  in  India.  The  chief  material  of  all  these  fine  buildings 
is  red  granite,  of  a very  agreeable  though  solemn  colour,  inlaid 
in  some  of  the  ornamental  parts  with  white  marble,  and  the 
general  style  of  building  is  of  a simple  and  impressive  character, 
which  reminded  me,  in  many  respects,  of  Carnarvon.  It  far 
exceeds  any  thing  at  Moscow. 

The  Jumna,  like  the  other  great  rivers  of  this  country,  over- 
flows, during  the  rains,  a wide  extent,  but,  unlike  the  Ganges, 
does  not  confer  fertility.  In  this  part  of  its  course,  it  is  so  strongly 
impregnated  with  natron,  extensive  beds  of  which  abound  in  all 
the  neighbourhood,  that  its  waters  destroy,  instead  of  promoting 
vegetation,  and  the  whole  space  between  the  high  banks  and  the 
river,  in  its  present  low  state,  is  a loose  and  perfectly  barren 
sand,  like  that  of  the  sea-shore.  I found  the  ferry-boat  in  readi- 
ness, and  was  received  on  the  other  side  by  Mr.  Elliott,  who  had 
come  to  meet  me  with  an  elephant  and  a very  numerous  suwarree 
of  spears  and  matchlocks.  We  went  together  towards  the  city, 
over  a similar  bed  of  arid  sand  with  that  which  I had  just  passed, 
forded  a smaller  branch  of  the  Jumna,  which  runs  close  under 
the  walls,  and,  leaving  the  palace  to  our  left,  went  along  a 


AQUEDUCT. 


445 


tolerably  wide  street  to  the  Residency,  which  is  a large  straggling 
building,  consisting  of  two  or  three  entertaining  rooms,  added 
by  Sir  David  Ochterlony,  when  Resident,  to  an  old  Mussulman 
palace.  Lushington,  whom  I found  just  arrived,  had  his  bed- 
room in  this  palace,  a very  singular  and  interesting  little  room, 
with  a vaulted  roof,  richly  ornamented  with  mosaic  painting. 
Behind  is  a large  garden,  laid  out  in  the  usual  formal  eastern 
manner,  but  with  some  good  trees  and  straight  walks,  and  the 
whole  has  more  the  appearance  of  a college  than  any  thing  else. 

Mr.  Williams,  one  of  Mr.  Elliott’s  secretaries,  is  an  enterpris- 
ing traveller,  who  has  penetrated,  beyond  the  snowy  mountains, 
several  days’  journey  into  Ladak,  and  even  beyond  the  Chinese 
frontier.  He  showed  me  several  drawings  of  the  people  of  these 
countries,  who  seem,  in  most  respects  of  religion,  dress,  and 
countenance,  to  resemble  my  old  friends  the  Calmuks.  They 
carry  on  a tolerably  regular  intercourse  with  Russia,  and  sheets 
of  gilt  leather,  stamped  with  the  Imperial  Eagle,  were  among 
the  presents  which  the  King  of  Ladak  sent  down,  when  he  offered 
his  allegiance  to  the  British  Government.  Their  written  charac- 
ter, however,  to  my  surprise,  I found  different  from  the  Mongolian ; 
to  my  surprise  1 found  it  so,  and  to  my  disappointment  too,  for  I 
had  counted  on  the  New  Testaments  printed  by  the  Russian  Bible 
Society  for  the  use  of  the  Calmuk  tribes,  being  legible  by  these 
mountaineers.  However  the  project  of  doing  them  good  need 
not  be  abandoned,  though  its  execution  may  be  more  tedious  than 
I anticipated. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  in  Delhi  the  rain  returned  with  still 
greater  violence,  and  continued  all  that  day  and  night  to  the 
great  joy  of  the  people,  some  of  whom  told  Mrs.  Elliott,  in  the 
usual  style  of  Eastern  notions,  that  “ the  Lord  Sahib’s  coming 
was  a happy  thing  for  Delhi,  since  now  they  should  have  bread 
to  eat.”  I found,  indeed,  that  the  servants  had  by  no  means  for- 
gotten the  rain  which  preceded  my  arrival  at  Cawnpoor,  and  that 
they  had  taken  care  to  publish  here  how  very  lucky,  or  “ mobarak” 
a person  1 was,  an  opinion  in  which  I believe  they  themselves  are 
now  quite  confirmed. 

December  30. — This  morning  Lushington  and  1 rode  to  the 
tomb  of  the  emperor  Humaioon,  six  miles  from  the  city,  S.W. 
We  passed,  in  our  way  to  the  Agrega  gate,  along  a very  broad  but 
irregular  street,  with  a channel  of  water,  cased  with  stone,  con- 
ducted along  its  middle.  This  is  a part  of  the  celebrated  aque- 
duct constructed,  in  the  first  instance,  by  Ali  Merdan  Khan,  a 
Persian  nobleman  in  the  service  of  the  emperor  Shahjehan,  then 
long  neglected  during  the  troubles  of  India  and  the  decay  of  the 
Mogul  power,  and  within  these  few  years  repaired  by  the  English 
Government.  It  is  conducted  from  the  Jumna,  immediately  on 


446 


IMPERIAL  PALACE. 


leaving  its  mountains,  and  while  its  stream  is  yet  pure  and  whole- 
some, for  a distance  of  about  1 20  miles ; and*  is  a noble  work, 
giving  fertility  to  a very  large  extent  of  country  near  its  banks, 
and  absolutely  the  sole  source  of  vegetation  to  the  gardens  of 
Delhi,  besides  furnishing  its  inhabitants  with  almost  the  only 
drinkable  water  within  their  reach.  When  it  was  first  re-opened, 
by  Sir  Charles  Metcalfe,  in  1820,  the  whole  population  of  the 
city  went  out  in  jubilee  to  meet  its  stream,  throwing  flowers, 
ghee,  &c.  into  the  water,  and  calling  down  all  manner  of  blessings 
on  the  British  Government,  who  have  indeed  gone  far,  by  this 
measure,  to  redeem  themselves  from  the  weight  of,  I fear,  a good 
deal  of  impolicy. 

It  most  unfortunately  happened  that,  during  the  present  year, 
and  amid  all  the  other  misfortunes  of  drought  and  scarcity  which 
this  poor  country  has  undergone,  the  Jumna  changed  its  course^ 
and  the  canal  became  dry ! The  engineer  officer  who  superin- 
tends its  works,  was  at  the  time  labouring  under  the  remains  of  a 
jungle  fever ; his  serjeant  was  in  the  same  condition,  and  conse- 
quently there  was  no  one  who,  when  the  mischief  was  discovered, 
could  go  up  to  the  hills  to  remedy  it.  The  suffering  of  the  peo- 
ple was  very  dismal ; since  the  restoration  of  the  canal  they  had 
neglected  the  wells  which  formerly  had,  in  some  degree,  supplied 
their  wants.  The  water  which  they  drank  was  to  be  brought 
from  a distance  and  sold  at  a considerable  rate,  and  their  gardens 
were  quite  ruined.  That  of  the  presidency  had  not  at  the  mo- 
ment when  I saw  it,  a green  thing  in  it,  and  those  of  the  poor 
were  in  a yet  worse  condition,  if  wmrse  were  possible.  It  was 
not  till  the  middle  of  November  that  the  canal  could  be.  again 
restored,  when  it  was  hailed  with  similar  expressions  of  joy  to 
those  which  had  greeted  its  former  re-appearance. 

Half-way  along  the  street  which  I have  been  describing,  and 
nearly  opposite  another  great  street  with  a similar  branch  of  the 
canal,  which  runs  at  right  angles  to  the  former,  stands  the  imperial 
palace,  built  by  the  Emperor  Shah  Jehan,  surrounded  on  this 
side  by  a wall  of,  I should  think,  sixty  feet  high,  embattled  and 
machicollated,  with  small  round  towers  and  two  noble  gateways, 
each  defended  by  an  outer  barbican  of  the  same  construction, 
though  of  less  height.  The  whole  is  of  red  granite,  and.  sur- 
rounded by  a wide  moat.  It  is  a place  of  no  strength,  the  walls 
being  only  calculated  for  bows  and  arrows  or  musketry,  but  as  a 
kingly  residence  it  is  one  of  the  noblest  that  I have  seen.  It  far 
surpasses  the  Kremlin,  but  I do  not  think  that,  except  in  the  dura- 
bility of  its  materials,  it  equals  Windsor. 

Sentries  in  red  coats,  (sepoys  of  the  Company’s  regular  army,) 
appear  at  its  exterior,  but  the  internal  duties,  and  indeed,  most  ol 
the  police  duties  of  Delhi,  are  performed  by  the  two  provincial 


DELHI. 


447 


battalions  raised  in  the  emperor’s  name,  and  nominally  under  his 
orders.  These  are  disciplined  pretty  much  like  Europeans,  but 
have  matchlock  guns  and  the  oriental  dress,  and  their  command- 
ing officer.  Captain  Grant  of  the  Company’s  service,  is  considered 
as  one  of  the  domestics  of  the  Mogul,  and  has  apartments  in  the 
palace. 

From  the  gate  of  Agra  to  Humaibon’s  tomb  is  a very  awful 
scene  of  desolation,  ruins  after  ruins,  tombs  after  tombs,  fragments 
of  brick -work,  freestone,  granite,  and  marble,  scattered  every 
where  over  a soil  naturally  rocky  and  barren,  without  cultiva- 
tion, except  in  one  or  two  small  spots,  and  without  a single  tree. 
I was  reminded  of  CafFa  in  the  Crimea,  but  this  was  Caffa  on  the 
scale  of  London,  with  the  wretched  fragments  of  a magnificence 
such  as  London  itself  cannot  boast.  The  ruins  really  extended 
as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  our  track  wound  among  them 
all  the  way.  This  was  the  seat  of  old  Delhi,  as  founded  by  the 
Patan  kings,  on  the  ruins  of  the  still  larger  Hindoo  city  of  Indra- 
put,  which  lay  chiefly  in  a western  direction.  When  the  present 
city,  which  is  certainly  in  a more  advantageous  situation,  was 
founded  by  the  emperor  Shahjehan,  he  removed  many  of  its 
inhabitants  thither;  most  of  the  rest  followed,  to  be  near  the 
palace  and  the  principal  markets ; and  as  during  the  Maharatta 
government  there  was  no  sleeping  in  a safe  skin  without  the 
walls,  old  Delhi  was  soon  entirely  abandoned.  The  official  name 
of  the  present  city  is  Shahjehan-poor,  “ city  of  the  king  of  the 
world !”  but  the  name  of  Delhi  is  always  used  in  conversation 
and  in  every  writing  but  those  which  are  immediately  offered  to 
the  emperor’s  eye. 

In  our  way  one  mass  of  ruins  larger  than  the  rest  was  pointed 
out  to  us  as  the  old  Patan  palace.  It  has  been  a large  and  solid 
fortress,  in  a plain  and  unornamented  style  of  architecture,  and 
would  have  been  picturesque  had  it  been  in  a country  where 
trees  grow,  and  ivy  was  green,  but  is  here  only  ugly  and  melan- 
choly. It  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  a high  black  pillar  of  cast 
metal,  called  Firoze’s  walking-stick.  This  was  originally  a Hin- 
doo work,  the  emblem,  I apprehend,  of  Siva,  which  stood  in  a 
temple  in  the  same  spot,  and  concerning  which  there  was  a tra- 
dition, like  that  attached  to  the  coronation  stone  of  the  Scots, 
that  while  it  stood  the  children  of  Brahma  were  to  rule  in  Indra- 
put.  On  the  conquest  of  the  country  by  the  Mussulmans  the 
vanity  of  the  prediction  was  shown,  and  Firoze  enclosed  it  within 
the  court  of  his  palace,  as  a trophy  of  the  victory  of  Islam  over 
idolatry.  It  is  covered  with  inscriptions,  mostly  Persian  and 
Arabic,  but  that  which  is  evidently  the  original,  and,  probably, 
contains  the  prophecy,  is  in  a character  now  obsolete  and  un- 
known, though  apparently  akin  to  the  Nagree. 


448 


HUMAIOON’S  TOMB. 


About  a mile  and  a half  further,  still  through  ruins,  is  Humaioon’s 
tomb,  a noble  building  of  granite  inlaid  with  marble,  and  in  a 
very  chaste  and  simple  style  of  gothic  architecture.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  a large  garden  with  terraces  and  fountains,  all  now 
gone  to  decay  except  one  of  the  latter,  which  enables  the  poor  • 
people  who  live  in  the  out-buildings  of  the  tomb  to  cultivate  a ‘ 
little  wheat.  The  garden  itself  is  surrounded  by  an  embattled 
wall,  with  towers,  four  gateways,  and  a cloister  within  all  the  way 
round.  In  the  centre  of  the  square  is  a platform  of  about  twenty 
feet  high,  and  1 should  apprehend  two  hundred  feet  square,  sup- 
ported also  by  cloisters,  and  ascended  by  four  great  flights  of 
granite  steps.  Above  rises  the  tomb,  also  a square,  with  a great 
dome  of  white  marble  in  its  centre.  The  apartments  within  are 
a circular  room,  about  as  big  as  the  Ratcliffe  library,  in  the  centre 
of  which  lies,  under  a small  raised  slab,  the  unfortunate  prince  to 
whose  memory  this  fine  building  is  raised.  In  the  angles  are  smaller 
apartments,  where  other  branches  of  his  family  are  interred. 
From  the  top  of  the  building  I was  surprised  to  see  that  we  had 
still  ruins  on  every  side ; and  that,  more  particularly,  to  the  west- 
ward and  where  old  Indraput  stood,  the  desolation  apparently 
extended  to  a range  of  barren  hills  seven  or  eight  miles  off. 

On  coming  down  we  were  conducted  about  a mile  westward 
to  a burying-ground,  or  collection  of  tombs  and  small  mosques, 
some  of  them  very  beautiful,  among  which  the  most  remarkable 
was  a little  chapel  in  honour  of  a celebrated  Mussulman  saint, 
Nizam-ud-deen.  Round  his  shrine  most  of  the  deceased  members 
of  the  present  imperial  family  lie  buried,  each  in  his  own  little 
enclosure,  surrounded  by  very  elegant  lattice-work  of  white  mar- 
ble. Workmen  were  employed  at  this  time  in  completing  the 
tomb  of  the  late  prince  Jehanguire,  third  and  darling  son  of  the 
emperor,  who  died  lately  at  Allahabad,  whither  he  had  been 
banished  by  the  British  Government  for  his  violent  character, 
(that  of  a thoroughly  spoilt  child,)  and  his  culpable  intrigues 
against  his  elder  brother.  The  father  is  said  to  have  been  con- 
vinced at  length  of  the  necessity  of  this  measure,  but  the  old 
empress  has  never  forgiven  it,  and  now  cannot  be  persuaded  but 
that  her  darling  boy,  who  died  of  drinking  and  all  manner  of 
vice,  was  poisoned  by  the  English.  The  few  remaining  resources 
of  the  house  of  Timour  are  drawn  on  to  do  honour  to  his  remains, 
and  the  tomb,  though  small,  will  certainly  be  very  elegant.-  The 
flowers,  &c.  into  which  the  marble  is  carved,  are  as  delicate  and 
in  as  good  taste  and  execution  as  any  of  the  ordinary  Italian 
artists  could  produce.  Another  tomb  which  interested  me  very 
much  was  that  of  Jehanara,  daughter  of  Shahjehan.  It  has  no 
size  or  importance,  but  she  was  one  of  the  few  amiable  charac- 
ters which  the  family  of  Timour  can  show.  In  the  prime  of 


SHAWL  MANUFACTORY. 


449 


youth  and  beauty,  when  her  father  was  dethroned,  imprisoned, 
and,  I believe,  blinded,  by  his  wicked  son  Aurungzebe,  she  applied 
for  leave  to  share  his  captivity,  and  continued  to  wait  on  him  as 
a nurse  and  servant  till  the  day  of  his  death.  Afterwards  she  was 
a bountiful  benefactress  to  the  poor  and  to  religious  men,  and  died 
with  the  reputation  of  a saint  better  deserved  than  by  many  who 
have  borne  the  name. 

In  one  part  of  these  ruins  is  a very  deep  tank,  surrounded  by 
buildings  sixty  or  seventy  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  from 
the  top  of  which  several  boys  and  young  men  jumped  down  and 
swam  to  the  steps,  in  order  to  obtain  a trifling  bukshish.  It  w'as 
a formidable  sight  to  a stranger,  but  they  seemed  to  feel  no  incon- 
venience except  from  cold,  and  were  very  thankful  for  a couple 
of  rupees  to  be  divided  among  their  number. 

After  breakfast  we  went  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Elliott  to  see  a 
shawl  manufactory  carried  on  by  Cashmerian  weavers  with  wool 
brought  from  Himalaya,  in  the  house  of  a wealthy  Hindoo  mer- 
chant, named  Soobin-chund.  The  house  itself  was  very  pretty, 
and  well  worth  seeing  as  a specimen  of  eastern  domestic  archi- 
tecture, comprising  three  small  courts  surrounded  by  stone 
cloisters,  two  of  them  planted  with  flowering  shrubs  and  orange- 
trees,  and  the  third  ornamented  with  a beautiful  marble  fountain. 
I did  not  think  the  shawls  which  were  shown  very  beautiful,  and 
the  prices  of  all  were  high.  I was  more  struck  with  the  speci- 
mens of  jewellery  which  they  produced,  which  1 thought  very 
splendid,  and  some  of  the  smaller  trinkets  in  good  taste.  I was 
persecuted  to  accept  a splendid  nuzzur  of  shawls,  &c.  to  the  value, 
perhaps,  of  1000  s.  rupees,  which  of  course  1 did  not  choose  to 
take.  My  pleading  my  religious  profession  did  not  satisfy  my 
Hindoo  host,  who  said  that  I might  at  least  give  it  to  my  “ Zen- 
nana luckily  Mr.  Elliott  suggested  to  me  to  say  that  I accepted 
it  with  gratitude,  but  that  I was  a traveller,  and  begged  him  to 
keep  it  for  me : to  which  I added,  that  “ what  was  in  the  house 
of  my  friend  1 considered  as  in  my  own.”  He  quite  understood 
this,  and  bowled  ver}^  low,  being,  I believe,  well  pleased  to  get 
his  compliment  over  at  so  easy  a rate.  The  son,  however,  a lad 
who  spoke  a very  little  English,  followed  me  to  the  door  with  a 
Turkman  horse,  which  he  begged  me  to  accept  as  his  nuzzur. 
The  horse  was  a pretty  one,  but  not  very  valuable.  1 however 
got  rid  of  the  matter  as  well  as  I could,  by  saying  that  “ spirited 
horses  were  fittest  for  the  young : that  I accepted  it  cheerfully, 
but  begged,  as  I had  no  other  proper  return  to  make,  that  he 
would  do  me  the  favour  to  take  it  back  again  !”  He  smiled  and 
bowed,  and  we  parted.  In  the  narrow  street  where  the  house  of 
Soobin-chund  stands,  we  passed  a little  cluster  of  Cashmerian 
women,  the  wives,  I suppose,  of  his  workmen,  distinguishable  by 

VoL.  I. — 57 


450 


JUMNA  MUSJEED. 


their  large  and  tall  figures  in  comparison  with  the  Hindoostanees, 
their  fair  complexions,  and  their  peculiar  head-dress,  which  con- 
sisted of  a large  roll  of  turban  under  the  usual  veil,  the  whole 
appearance  more  like  the  famous  pictures  of  the  Babylonian  sybil 
than  any  thing  which  I recollect. 

We  afterwards  went  to  the  Jumna  Musjeed  and  the  Kala^Mus- 
jeed.  The  former  is  elevated  very  advantageously  on  a small 
rocky  eminence,  to  full  the  height  of  the  surrounding  houses.  In 
front  it  has  a large  square  court  surrounded  by  a cloister  open  on 
both  sides,  and  commanding  a view  of  the  whole  city,  which  is 
entered  by  three  gates  with  a fine  flight  of  steps  to  each.  In  the 
centre  is  a great  marble  reservoir  of  water,  with  some  small  foun- 
tains, supplied  by  machinery  from  the  canal.  The  whole  court 
is  paved  with  granite  inlaid  with  marble.  On  its  west  side,  and 
rising  up  another  flight  of  steps,  is  the  mosque  itself,  which  is 
entered  by  three  noble  gothic  arches,  surmounted  by  three  domes 
of  white  marble.  It  has  at  each  end  a very  tall  minaret.  The 
ornaments  are  less  florid,  and  the  building  less  picturesque,  than 
the  splendid  group  of  the  Imambara  and  its  accompaniments  at 
Lucknow ; but  the  situation  is  far  more  commanding,  and  the 
size,  the  solidity,  and  rich  materials  of  this  building,  impressed 
me  more  than  any.  thing  of  the  sort  which  I have  seen  in  India. 
It  is  in  excellent  repair,  the  British  Government  having  made  a 
grant  for  this  purpose,  a measure  which  was  very  popular  in 
Delhi. 

The  Kala  Musjeed  is  small,  and  has  nothing  worthy  notice 
about  it  but  its  plainness,  solidity,  and  great  antiquity,  being  a 
work  of  the  first  Patan  conquerors,  and  belonging  to  the  times  of 
primitive  Mussulman  simplicity.  It  is  exactly  on  the  plan  of  the 
original  Arabian  mosques,  a square  court,  surrounded  by  a cloister, 
and  roofed  with  many  small  domes  of  the  plainest  and  most  solid 
construction,  like  the  rudest  specimens  of  what  we  call  the  early 
Norman  architecture.  It  has  no  minaret ; the  crier  stands  on  the 
roof  to  proclaim  the  hour  of  prayer.  Thus  ended  our  first  day’s 
sight-seeing  in  Delhi. 

The  31st  December  was  fixed  for  my  presentation  to  the  Em- 
peror, which  was  appointed  for  half-past  eight  in  the  morning. 
Lushington  and  a Captain  Wade  also  chose  to  take  the  same  op- 
portunity. At  eight  I went  accompanied  by  Mr.  Elliott  with 
nearly  the  same  formalities  as  at  Lucknow,  except  that  we  were 
on  elephants  instead  of  in  palanquins,  and  that  the  procession 
was,  perhaps,  less  splendid,  and  the  beggars  both  less  numerous 
and  far  less  vociferous  and  importunate.  We  were  received  with 
presented  arms  by  the  troops  of  the  palace  drawn  up  within  the 
barbican,  and  proceeded,  still  on  our  elephants,  through  the 
noblest  gateway  and  vestibule  which  I ever  saw.  It  consists,  not 


PRESENTATION  TO  TPIE  EMPEROR  OF  DELHI. 


451 


merely  of  a splendid  gothic  arch  in  the  centre  of  the  great  gate- 
tower, — but,  after  that,  of  a long  vaulted  isle,  like  that  of  a gothic 
cathedral,  with  a small,  open,  octagonal  court  in  its  centre,  all  of 
granite,  and  all  finely  carved  with  inscriptions  from  the  Koran, 
and  with  flowers.  This  ended  in  a ruinous  and  exceedingly  dirty 
stable-yard  ! where  we  were  received  by  Captain  Grant,  as  the 
Mogul’s  officer  on  guard,  and  by  a number  of  elderly  men  with 
large  gold-headed  canes,  the  usual  ensign  of  office  here,  and  one 
of  which  Mr.  Elliott  also  carried.  We  were  now  told  to  dis- 
mount and  proceed  on  foot,  a task  which  the  late  rain  made  in- 
convenient to  my  gown  and  cassock,  and  thin  shoes,  and  during 
which  we  were  pestered  by  a fresh  swarm  of  miserable  beggars, 
the  wives  and  children  of  the  stable  servants.  After  this  we 
passed  another  richly-carved,  but  ruinous  and  dirty  gateway, 
where  our  guides,  withdrawing  a canvass  screen,  called  out,  in  a 
sort  of  harsh  chaunt,  “ Lo,  the  ornament  of  the  world  ! Lo,  the 
asylum  of  the  nations ! King  of  Kings ! The  Emperor  Akbar 
Shah  ! Just,  fortunate,  victorious  !”  We  saw,  in  fact,  a very  hand- 
some and  striking  court,  about  as  big  as  that  at  All  Souls,  with  low, 
but  richly  ornamented  buildings.  Opposite  to  us  was  a beautiful 
open  pavilion  of  white  marble,  richly  carved,  flanked  by  rose- 
bushes and  fountains,  and  some  tapestry  and  striped  curtains 
hanging  in  festoons  about  it,  within  which  was  a crowd  of  peo- 
ple, and  the  poor  old  descendant  of  Tamerlane  seated  in  the 
midst  of  them.  Mr.  Elliott  here  bowed  three  times  very  low,  in 
which  we  followed  his  example.  This  ceremony  was  repeated 
twice  as  we  advanced  up  the  steps  of  the  pavilion,  the  heralds 
each  time  repeating  the  same  expressions  about  their  master’s 
greatness.  We  then  stood  in  a row  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the 
throne,  which  is  a sort  of  marble  bedstead  richly  ornamented  with 
gilding,  and  raised  on  two  or  three  steps.  Mr.  Elliott  then  stepped 
forwards,  and,  with  joined  hands,  in  the  usual  eastern  way,  an- 
nounced, in  a low  voice,  to  the  emperor,  who  I was.  I then 
advanced,  bowed  three  tirries  again,  and  offered  a nuzzur  of  fifty- 
one  gold  mohurs  in  an  embroidered  purse,  laid  on  my  handker- 
chief, in  the  way  practised  by  the  baboos  in  Calcutta.  This 
was  received  and  laid  on  one  side,  and  I remained  standing  for  a 
few  minutes,  while  the  usuaLcourt  questions  about  my  health,  my 
travels,  when  1 left  Calcutta,  &c.  were  asked.  I had  thus  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  the  old  gentleman  more  plainly.  He  has 
a pale,  thin,  but  handsome  face,  with  an  aquiline  nose,  and  a long 
white  beard.  His  complexion  is  little  if  at  all  darker  than  that  of 
an  European.  His  hands  are  very  fair  and  delicate,  and  he  had 
some  valuable-looking  rings  on  them.  His  hands  and  face  were 
all  I saw  of  him,  for  the  morning  being  cold,  he  was  so  wrapped 
up  in  shawls,  that  he  reminded  me  extremely  of  the  Druid’s  head 


452 


PRESENTATION  TO  THE  EMPEROR  DELHI. 


on  a Welch  halfpenny.  I then  stepped  back  to  my  former  place, 
and  returned  again  with  five  more  mohurs  to  make  my  offering 
to  the  heir  apparent,  who  stood  at  his  father’s  left  hand,  the  right 
being  occupied  by  the  Resident.  Next,  my  two  companions 
were  introduced  with  nearly  the  same  forms,  except  that  their 
offerings  were  less,  and  that  the  Emperor  did  not  speak  to  them. 

The  Emperor  then  beckoned  to  me  to  come  forwards,  and  Mr. 
Elliott  told  me  to  take  off  my  hat  which  had  till  now  remained 
on  my  head,  on  which  the  Emperor  tied  a flimsy  turban  of  brocade 
round  my  head  with  his  own  hands,  for  which,  however,  I paid  four 
gold  mohurs  more.  We  were  then  directed  to  retire  to  receive 
the  “ Khelats”  (honorary  dresses)  which  the  bounty  of  “ the 
Asylum  of  the  World”  had  provided  for  us.  1 was  accordingly 
taken  into  a small  private  room,  adjoining  the  Zennana,  where  I 
found  a handsome  flowered  caftan  edged  with  fur,  and  a pair  of 
common  looking  shawls,  which  my  servants,  who  had  the  delight 
of  witnessing  all  this  fine  show,  put  on  instead  of  my  gown,  my 
cassock  remaining  as  before.  In  this  strange  dress  I had  to  walk 
back  again,  having  my  name  announced  by  the  criers  (something 
in  the  same  way  that  Lord  Marmion’s  was)  “ as  Bahadur,  Boo- 
zoony,  Dowlut-mund,”  &c.  to  the  presence,  where  I found  my 
two  companions  who  had  not  been  honoured  by  a private  dress- 
ing room,  but  had  their  Khelats  put  on  them  in  the  gateway  of 
the  court.  They  were,  I apprehend,  still  queerer  figures  than  I 
was,  having  their  hats  wrapped  with  scarfs  of  flowered  gauze,  and 
a strange  garment  of  gauze,  tinsel,  and  faded  ribbands,  flung  over 
their  shoulders  above  their  coats.  I now  again  came  forward  and 
offered  my  third  present  to  the  Emperor,  being  a copy  of  the 
Arabic  Bible  and  the  Hindoostanee  Common  Prayer,  handsomely 
bound  in  blue  velvet  laced  with  gold,  and  wrapped  up  in  a piece 
of  brocade.  He  then  motioned  to  me  to  stoop,  and  put  a string 
of  pearls  round  my  neck,  and  two  glittering  but  not  costly  orna- 
ments in  the  front  of  my  turban,  for  which  I again  offered  five 
gold  mohurs.  It  was,  lastly,  announced  that  a horse  was  waiting 
for  my  acceptance,  at  which  fresh  instance  of  imperial  munifi- 
cence, the  heralds  again  made  a proclamation  of  largesse,  and  I 
again  paid  five  gold  mohurs.  It  ended  by  my  taking  my  leave 
with  three  times  three  salams,  making  up,  I think,  the  sum  of 
about  threescore,  and  I retired  with  Mr.  Elliott  to  my  dressing 
room,  whence  I sent  to  her  Majesty  the  Queen.,  as  she  is  generally 
called,  though  Empress  would  be  the  ancient  and  more  proper 
title,  a present  of  five  mohurs  more,  and  the  Emperor’s  Chobdars 
came  eagerly  up  to  know  when  they  should  attend  to  receive 
their  bukshish.  It  must  not,  however,  be  supposed  that  this  in- 
terchange of  civilities  was  very  expensive  either  to  his  Majesty  or 
to  me.  All  the  presents  which  he  gave,  the  horse  included. 


PALACE. 


453 


though  really  the  handsomest  which  had  been  seen  at  the  court 
of  Delhi  for  many  years,  and  though  the  old  gentleman  evidently 
intended  to  be  extremely  civil,  were  not  worth  much  more  than 
300  s,  rupees,  so  that  he  and  his  family  gained  at  least  800  s.  ru- 
pees by  the  morning’s  work,  besides  what  he  received  from  my 
two  companions,  which  was  all  clear  gain,  since  the  Khelats  which 
they  got  in  return,  were  only  fit  for  May-day,  and  made  up,  I 
fancy,  from  the  cast-ofF  finery  of  the  Begum.  On  the  other  hand, 
since  the  Company  have  wisely  ordered  that  all  the  presents 
given  by  native  princes  to  Europeans  should  be  disposed  of  on 
the  Government  account,  they  have  liberally,  at  the  same  time, 
taken  on  themselves  the  expense  of  paying  the  usual  money  nuz- 
zurs  made  by  public  men  on  these  occasions.  In  consequence 
none  of  my  offerings  were  at  my  own  charge,  except  the  profes- 
sional and  private  one  of  the  two  books,  with  which,  as  they 
were  unexpected,  the  Emperor,  as  I was  told,  was  very  much 
pleased.  I had,  of  course,  several  buckshishes  to  give  afterwards 
to  his  servants,  but  these  fell  considerably  short  of  my  expenses 
at  Lucknow^  To  return  to  the  hall  of  audience.  While  in  the 
small  apartment,  where  I got  rid  of  my  shining  garments,  I was 
struck  with  its  beautiful  ornaments.  It  was  entirely  lined  with 
white  marble,  inlaid  with  flowers  and  leaves  of  green  serpentine, 
lapis  lazuli,  and  blue  and  red  porphyry:  the  flowers  were  of  the 
best  Italian  style  of  workmanship,  and  evidently  the  labour  of  an 
artist  of  that  country.  All,  however,  was  dirty,  desolate,  and 
forlorn.  Half  the  flowers  and  leaves  had  been  picked  out  or 
otherwise  defaced,  and  the  doors  and  windows  were  in  a state  of 
dilapidation,  while  a quantity  of  old  furniture  was  piled  in  one 
corner,  and  a torn  hanging  of  faded  tapestry  hung  over  an  arch- 
way which  led  to  the  interior  apartments.  “ Such,”  Mr.  Elliott 
said,  “ is.  the  general  style  in  which  this  palace  is  kept  up  and  fur- 
nished. It  is  not  absolute  poverty  which  produces  this,  but  these 
people  have  no  idea  of  cleaning  of  mending  any  thing.”  For  my 
own  part  I thought  of  the  famous  Persian  line, 

“ The  spider  hangs  her  tapestry  in  the  palace  of  the  Csesars;” 

and  felt  a melancholy  interest  in  comparing  the  present  state  of 
this  poor  family  with  what  it  was  200  years  ago,  when  Bernier 
visited  Delhi,  or  as  we  read  its  palace  described  in  the  tale  of 
Madame  de  Genlis. 

After  putting  on  my  usual  dress,  we  waited  a little,  till  word 
was  brought  us  that  the  “King  of  Kings,”  “ Shah-in-Shah,” 
had  retired  to  his  Zennana ; we  then  went  to  the  Hall  of  Audi- 
ence, which  I had  previously  seen  but  imperfectly,  from  the 
crowd  of  people  and  the  necessity  of  attending  to  the  forms 


454 


GARDENS  OF  THE  PALACE. 


which  I had  to  go  through.  It  is  a very  beautiful  pavilion  of 
white  marble,  open  on  one  side  to  the  court  of  the  palace,  and 
on  the  other  to  a large  garden.  Its  pillars  and  arches  are  exqui- 
sitely carved  and  ornamented  with  gilt  and  inlaid  flowers,  and 
inscriptions  in  the  most  elaborate  Persian  character.  Round  the 
frieze  is  the  motto,  recorded,  I believe,  in  Lalla  Rookh, 

“ If  there  be  an  Elysium  on  earth, 

It  is  this,  it  is  this !” 

The  marble  floor,  where  not  covered  by  carpets,  is  all  inlaid  in 
the  same  beautiful  manner  with  the  little  dressing-room  which 
I had  quitted. 

The  gardens,  which  we  next  visited,  are  not  large,  but,  in  their 
way,  must  have  been  extremely  rich  and  beautiful.  They  are 
full  of  very  old  orange  and  other  fruit  trees,  with  terraces  and 
parterres  on  which  many  rose-bushes  were  growing,  and,  even 
now,  a few  jonquils  in  flower.  A channel  of  white  marble  for 
water,  with  little  fountain-pipes  of  the  same  material,  carved  like 
roses,  is  carried  here  and  there  among  these  parterres,  and  at 
the  end  of  the  terrace  is  a beautiful  octagonal  pavilion,  also  of 
marble,  lined  with  the  same  Mosaic  flowers  as  in  the  room  which 
I first  saw,  with  a marble  fountain  in  the  centre,  and  a beautiful 
bath  in  a recess  on  one  of  its  sides.  The  windows  of  this  pa- 
vilion, which  is  raised  to  the  height  of  the  city  wall,  command  a 
good  view  of  Delhi  and  its  neighbourhood.  But  all  was,  when 
we  saw  it,  dirty,  lonely,  and  wretched : the  bath  and  fountain 
dry:  the  inlaid  pavement  hid  with  lumber  and  gardener’s 
sweepings,  and  the  walls  stained  with  the  dung  of  birds  and 
bats. 

We  were  then  taken  to  the  private  mosque  of  the  palace,  an 
elegant  little  building,  also  of  white  marble,  and  exquisitely 
carved,  but  in  the  same  state  of  neglect  and  dilapidation,  with 
peepuls  allowed  to  spring  from  its  walls,  the  exterior  gilding  par- 
tially torn  from  its  dome,  and  some  of  its  doors  coarsely  blocked 
up  with  unplastered  brick  and  mortar. 

We  went  last  to  the  “ Dewanee  aum,”  or  hall  of  public 
audience,  which  is  in  the  outer  court,  and  where,  on  certain  oc- 
casions, the  great  Mogul  sate  in  state,  to  receive  the  compliments 
or  petitions  of  his  subjects.  This  also  is  a splendid  pavilion  of 
marble,  not  unlike  the  other  hall  of  audience  in  form,  but  con- 
siderably larger,  and  open  on  three  sides  only  ; on  the  fourth  is 
a black  wall,  covered  with  the  same  Mosaic  work  of  flowers  and 
leaves  as  I have  described,  and  in  the  centre  a throne,  raised 
about  ten  feet  from  the  ground,  with  a small  platform  of  marble 
in  front,  where  the  vizier  used  to  stand  to  hand  up  petitions  (o 


DELHL 


455 


his  master.  Behind  this  throne  are  Mosaic  paintings  of  birds, 
animals,  and  flowers,  and  in  the  centre,  what  decides  the  point 
of  their  being  the  work  of  Italian,  or  at  least  European  artists, 
a small  group  of  Orpheus  playing  to  the  beasts.  This  hall, 
when  we  saw  it,  was  full  of  lumber  of  all  descriptions,  broken 
palanquins  and  empty  boxes,  and  the  throne  so  covered  with 
pigeon’s  dung,  that  its  ornaments  were  hardly  discernible.  How 
little  did  Shahjehan,  the  founder  of  these  fine  buildings,  foresee 
what  would  be  the  fate  of  his  descendants,  or  what  his  own 
would  be ! “ Vanity  of  vanities !”  was  surely  never  written  in 

more  legible  characters  than  on  the  dilapidated  arcades  of 
Delhi ! 

After  breakfast  1 had  a numerous  attendance  of  persons  who 
either  wished  to  be  confirmed  themselves,  or  to  have  my  expla- 
nation of  the  nature  and  authority  of  the  ceremony.  In  the 
afternoon  I went  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Elliott  a drive  round  a part 
of  the  city.  Its  principal  streets  are  really  wide,  handsome,  and, 
for  an  Asiatic  city,  remarkably  cleanly,  and  the  shops  in  the 
bazars  have  a good  appearance.  The  chief  street,  down  which 
we  drove,  is  called  the  “ chandnee  chokee,”  or  silversmith’s 
street,  but  I did  not  see  any  great  number  of  that  trade  resident 
the^re.  It  is  about  as  wide  as  Pall-Mall,  and  has  a branch  of  the 
aqueduct  running  along  its  centre.  Half-way  down  its  length  is 
a pretty  little  mosque,  with  three  gilt  domes,  on  the  porch  of 
which,  it  is  said,  Nader  Shah  sat  from  morning  to  evening  to 
see  the  work  of  massacre  which  his  army  inflicted  on  the 
wretched  citizens.  A gate  leading  to  a bazar  near  it  retains  the 
name  of  “ coonia  durwazu,”  slaughter-gate ! The  chandnee  cho- 
kee conducted  us  to  the  gate  of  Lahore,  and  we  went  along  the 
exterior  of  the  town  to  the  gate  of  Cashmere,  by  which  we  re- 
turned to  the  Residency.  The  city  wall  is  lofty  and  handsome, 
but,  excepting  ruins  and  sun-burnt  rocks,  there  is  nothing  to  be 
seen  without  the  ramparts  of  Delhi.  The  Shelimar  gardens, 
extolled  in  Lalla  Rookh,  are  completely  gone  to  decay.  Yet  I 
am  assured  by  every  body  that  the  appearance  of  things  in  the 
province  of  Delhi  is  greatly  improved  since  it  came  into  our 
hands  ! To  what  a state  must  the  Maharattas  have  reduced  it ! 

January  1. — We  went  to  see  Koottab-sahib,  a small  town 
about  twelve  miles  south-west  of  Delhi,  remarkable  for  its  ruins, 
and,  among  the  Mussulmans,  for  its  sanctity.  It  was  the  scene 
of  very  hard  fighting  between  the  Hindoo  sovereigns  of  Indraput 
and  the  original  Patan  invaders,  and  the  Mussulmans  say  that 
5000  martyrs  to  their  religion  lie  interred  in  the  neighbourhood. 
Its  principal  sanctity,  however,  arises  from  the  tomh  of  a very 
celebrated  saint,  Cutteeb  Sahib,  in  whose  honour  the  buildings 
for  which  it  is  now  remarkable  were  begun,  but  never  quite 


456 


CUTTAB  MINAR. 


completed,  by  Shumshed,  the  third,  1 think,  in  succession  of  the 
Patan  sovereigns.  The  emperor  has  a house  there,  and  it  is  a 
favourite  retreat  of  his  during  fine  weather. 

We  went  out  at  the  Agra  gate,  and  rode  through  the  same  dis- 
mal field  of  tombs  as  we  had  formerly  traversed,  escorted  by 
three  of  Skinner’s  horse.  Before  we  had  cleared  the  ruins, 
another  body  of  fifteen  or  twenty  wild-looking  horse,  some  with 
long  spears,  some  with  matchlocks  and  matches  lighted,  gallop- 
ed up  from  behind  a large  tomb  ; and  their  leader,  dropping  the 
point  of  his  lance,  said,  that  he  was  sent  by  the  Raja  of  Bullum- 
ghur,  “the  fort  of  spears,”  to  conduct  me  through  his  district. 
We  had  no  need  of  this  further  escort,  but,  as  it  was  civilly  in- 
tended, I of  course  took  it  civilly,  and  we  went  on  together  to  a 
beautiful  mausoleum,  about  five  miles  further,  raised  in  honour 
of  Sufter  Jung,  an  ancestor  of  the  King  of  Oude,  who  still  keeps 
up  his  tomb  and  the  garden  round  it  in  good  repair.  We  did 
not  stop  here,  however,  but  proceeded  on  elephants,  which  Mr. 
Elliott  had  stationed  for  us,  leaving  our  horses  under  the  care  of 
the  Bullumghur  suwarrs,  of  whom,  and  their  Raja,  we  were  after- 
wards to  see  a good  deal.  Our  route  lay  over  a country  still 
rocky  and  barren,  and  still  sprinkled  with  tombs  and  ruins,  till, 
on  ascending  a little  eminence,  we  saw  one  of  the  most  exten- 
sive and  striking  scenes  of  ruin  which  I have  met  with  in  any 
country.  A very  tolerable  account  of  it  is  given  in  Hamilton’s 
India,  and  I will  only  observe  that  the  Cuttab  Minar,  the  object 
of  principal  attraction,  is  really  the  finest  tower  I have  ever 
seen,  and  must,  when  its  spire  was  complete,  have  been  still  more 
beautiful.  The  remaining  great  arches  of  the  principal  mosque, 
with  their  granite  pillars,  covered  with  inscriptions  in  the  florid 
Cufic  character,  are  as  fine,  in  their  way,  as  any  of  the  details  of 
York  Minster.  In  front  of  the  principal  of  these  great  arches  is 
a metal  pillar,  like  that  in  Firoze  Shah’s  castle,  and  several 
other  remains  of  a Hindoo  palace  and  temple,  more  ancient  than 
the  foundation  of  the  Koottab,  and  which  1 should  have  thought 
striking,  if  they  had  not  been  in  such  a neighbourhood.  A mul- 
titude of  ruined  mosques,  tombs,  serais,  &c.  are  packed  close 
round,  mostly  in  the  Patan  style  of  architecture,  and  some  of 
them  very  fine.  One,  more  particularly,  on  a hill,  and  surrounded 
by  a wall  with  battlements  and  towers,  struck  me  as  peculiarly 
suited,  by  its  solid  and  simple  architecture,  to  its  blended  cha- 
racter, in  itself  very  appropriate  to  the  religion  of  Islam,  of 
fortress,  tomb,  and  temple.  These  Patans  built  like  giants^  and 
finished  their  work  like  jewellers.  Yet  the  ornaments,  florid  as 
they  are  in  their  proper  places,  are  never  thrown  away,  or 
allowed  to  interfere  with  the  general  severe  and  solemn  character 
of  their  edifices.  The  palace  of  the  present  imperial  family  is 


DELHI. 


457 


at  some  iittle  distance  behind  these  remains.  It  is  a large  but 
paltry  building,  in  a bad  style  of  Italian  architecture,  and  with  a 
public  road  actually  leading  through  its  court-yard.  A little  be- 
yond, and  amid  some  other  small  houses,  near  a very  fine  tank, 
we  alighted  at  rather  a pretty  little  building  belonging  to  Bukshi 
Mahmoud  Khan,  the  treasurer  of  the  palace,  where  a room  and 
a good  breakfast  were  prepared  for  us. 

After  breakfast,  the  day  being  cool  and  rather  cloudy,  we  went 
to  see  the  ruins,  and  remained  clambering  about  and  drawing  till 
near  two  o’clock.  The  stair-case  within  the'great  Minar  is  very 
good,  except  the  uppermost  story  of  all,  which  is  ruinous  and 
difficult  of  access.  I went  up,  however,  and  was  rewarded  by 
the  very  extensive  view,  from  a height  of  two  hundred  and  forty 
feet,  of  Delhi,  the  course  of  the  Jumna  for  many  miles,  and  the 
ruins  of  Toghlikabad,  another  giantly  Patan  foundation,  w’hich 
lay  to  the  south-west. 

We  returned  in  the  evening  to  Delhi,  stopping  by  the  way  to 
see  Suffer  Jung’s  tomb.  It  is  very  richly  inlaid  with  different 
kinds  of  marble,  but  has  too  much  of  the  colour  of  potted  meat 
to  please  me,  particularly  after  seeing  buildings,  like  those  of 
Kootah-sahib.  We  were  received  here,  to  my  surprise,  by  the 
son  of  baboo  Soobin  Chund,  who  is,  it  seems,  the  agent  of  the 
King  of  Oude  in  Delhi,  and  consequently  has  the  keeping  of  this 
place  entrusted  to  him.  He  had  actually  brought  a second  and 
finer  horse  for  my  acceptance ; and  I had  great  difficulty  in  con- 
vincing him  of  two  things  ; first,  that  I had  no  power  to  render 
him  any  service  which  could  call  for  such  presents  ; and  secondly, 
that  my  declining  his  presents  was  not  likely  to  diminish  my  good 
will  towards  him,  supposing  me  to  have  such  power.  ,I  succeeded 
at  last,  however,  in  silencing,  if  not  convincing  him,  and  we 
returned  to  the  Residency,  passing  in  our  way  by  the  Observatory, 
a pile  of  buildings  much  resembling  those  at  Benares,  and  built 
by  the  same  person,  Jye  Sing,  Raja  and  founder  of  Jyepoor  in 
Rajpootana. 

At  Mr.  Elliott’s  we  found  his  son,  and  the  two  Mr.  Fishefs, 
come  to  pass  another  Sunday  with  me.  1 also  found  two  presents 
awaiting  my  acceptance  ; the  one  from  the  old  Begum  consisted 
of  a garland  of  withered  jonquils,  intermixed  with  tinsel,  which 
was,  I believe,  supposed  to  pass  for  pearls  ; for  after  putting  the 
said  wreath  round  my  neck,  the  chobdars  who  brought  it  hailed 
me  with  an  acclamation  of  “ Ue  Motee-wala!”  “ O,  thou  pearly 
person !”  I however  had,  of  course,  to  receive  the  gift  with 
many  thanks,  as  a favour  from  the  hand  of  a princess.  The  other 
present,  from  the  King,  was  more  useful  to  a traveller,  consisting 
of  a buck,  with  his  best  wishes  for  my  journey.  The  common 

VoL.  1. — 58 


458  EMPEROR  OF  DELHI. 

deer  of  this  neighbourhood  are,  indeed,  by  no  means  good,  and 
may  be  had  for  a rupee  a piece ; but  this  had  had  some  little 
feeding  bestowed  on  it,  and  we  found  it  by  no  means  bad  eating 
in  our  march. 

Of  the  present  situation  and  character  of  this  sovereign  and  his 
family,  I had  abundant  opportunity  of  acquiring  a knowledge  ; 
and  I am  glad  to  find  that,  with  some  exceptions,  the  conduct  of 
our  countrymen  to  the  house  of  Timour  has  been  honourable 
and  kind.  My  dear  wife  is  probably  aware  that  the  first  direct 
connection  between*the  English  and  the  Emperor  of  Delhi  began 
under  Lord  Clive’s  government,  when  Shah  Aulum,  father  of  the 
present  Acbar  Shah,  voluntarily,  and  without  any  stipulations, 
threw  himself  under  our  protection,  as  the  only  means  of  securing 
his  personal  liberty  from  the  dissensions  of  his  own  subjects  and 
the  violence  of  the  Maharattas.  He  was  received  and  treated  in 
all  respects  as  a sovereign ; had  a residence  assigned  to  him,  with 
a very  large  revenue  of  twenty-six  lacks  a year ; and  this  was,  in 
fact,  the  only  part  of  his  life  which  can  be  regarded  as  splendid 
or  prosperous.  In  his  anxiety  to  return  to  Delhi,  however,  he, 
after  some  years,  forfeited  all  these  advantages,  and  threw  himself 
into  the  power  of  the  Maharattas,  who,  about  a twelvemonth  be- 
fore, had  gained  possession  of  that  city,  and  who  were  our  invete- 
rate enemies.  By  these  new  friends  he  was  made  prisoner ; and 
Ghoolarn  Khadir,  the  Rohilla,  who  a few  years  after  captured 
Delhi,  put  out  his  eyes,  threw  him  into  a dungeon,  and  murdered 
all  the  members  of  his  family  who  could  be  found.  His  own  life 
would  probably  have  soon  sunk  under  his  misery,  had  not  Ghoo- 
1am  Khadir  been  defeated  and  put  to  death  by  Sindia,  (assisted 
by  French  officers  and  troops,)  who  now,  in  his  turn,  obtained 
possession  of  his  person.  His  condition  was,  however,  very  little 
improved.  He  was,  indeed,  suffered  to  live  in  his  palace,  and  his 
surviving  family  re-assembled  round  him ; but  he  and  they  were 
treated  with  exceeding  neglect,  and  literally  almost  starved,  by 
the  avarice  of  Sindia  and  the  rapacity  of  the  French.  It  was 
during  this  period  that  most  of  the  marble  and  inlaid  ornaments 
of  the  palace  were  mutilated,  since  they  were  actually  sold  to  buy 
bread  for  himself  and  his  children. 

In  this  miserable  state  he  was  found  by  Lord  Lake,  who  re- 
stored him  to  the  sort  of  decent  dependence  which  his  son  now 
enjoys  ; addressing  him  on  all  public  occasions  in  the  style  of  a 
sovereign, — acknowledging  the  English  Government  his  “ fidoi,” 
or  feudatory, — and  placing  him,  in  fact,  in  every  respect  but 
revenue,  where  Lord  Clive  had  placed  him  before.  His  revenue 
was  fixed  at  ten  lacks  a year,  which  was  afterwards  increased  to 
twelve,  and  by  Lord  Hastings  to  fifteen,  a large  sum,  but  which 


EMPEROR  OF  DELHI. 


459 


is  said  to  be,  either  through  mismanagement,  or,  as  is  greatly 
apprehended,  the  rapacity  of  the  old  Queen,  who  is  busy  making 
a purse  for  herself,  barely  sufficient  for  the  wants  of  his  very 
numerous  family.  By  Lord  Lake,IMr.  Seton,  and  Sir  David 
Ochterlony,  he  and  his  son,  the  present  Emperor,  were  treated 
with  all  the  outward  respect  which  even  in  their  best  days  his 
ancestors  had  received  from  their  subjects.  Sir  C.  Metcalf,  how- 
ever, intrenched  in  many  respects  on  these  little  outward  marks 
of  attention  and  deference  which  soothed  the  poor  old  man  in  his 
inevitable  dependence ; and  Acbar,  the  present  Emperor,  is  also 
said  to  have  been  deeply  wounded  by  the  demand  of  Lord 
Hastings  to  sit  in  his  presence.  He  felt  still  more  the  insult  of 
setting  up  his  Vizier,  the  Nawab  of  Oude,  as  King,  in  opposition 
to  him ; and  he  was  hurt  by  what  he  supposed  to  be  a continuance 
of  the  same  conduct  on  the  part  of  Government,  when  Sir  Edward 
Paget  passed  him  without  a visit.  Under  these  circumstances,  I 
was  glad  to  find  that  Mr.  Elliott  paid  him  every  respect,  and 
showed  him  every  kindness  in  his  power.  I was  glad,  also,  that 
I did  not  omit  to  visit  him,  since,  independently  of  the  interest 
which  I have  felt  in  seeing  the  venerable  ruin  of  a mighty  stock, 
Mr.  Elliott  says  that  the  Emperor  had  frequently  inquired  whether 
the  Bishop  also  meant  to  pass  him  by."^ 

Acbar  Shah  has  the  appearance  of  a man  of  seventy-four  or 
seventy-five  : he  is,  however,  not  much  turned  of  sixty-three,  but, 
in  this  country,  that  is  a great  age.  He  is  said  to  be  a very  good- 
tempered,  mild  old  man,  of  moderate  talents,  but  polished  and 
pleasing  manners.  His  favourite  wife,  the  Begum,  is  a low-born, 
low-bred,  and  violent  woman,  who  rules  him  completely,  lays  hold 
on  all  his  money,  and  has  often  influenced  him  to  very  unwise 
conduct  towards  his  children  and  the  British  Government.  She 
hates  her  eldest  son,  who  is,  however,  a respectable  man,  of  more 
talents  than  native  princes  usually  show,  and  happily  for  himself, 
has  a predilection  for  those  literary  pursuits  which  are  almost 
the  only  laudable:  or  innocent  objects  of  ambition  in  his  power. 
He  is  fond  of  poetry,  and  is  himself  a very  tolerable  Persian  poet. 
He  has  taken  some  pains  in  the  education  of  his  children,  and, 
what  in  this  country  is  very  unusual,  even  of  his  daughters.  He 

* In  the  course  of  his  late  progress  through  the  upper  provinces,  Lord  Amherst 
paid  the  Emperor  a visit : he  was  received  by  him  in  the  hall  of  audience,  which 
both  parties  entered  at  the  same  moment,  and,  after  an  embrace,  the  Emperor 
ascended  the  peacock  throne,  and  the  Governor-general  sate  down  in  a state 
chair  on  his  right  hand.  After  an  interchange  of  compliments,  and  the  usual 
form  of  presenting  attar  had  been  gone  through,  Lord  Amherst  took  leave 
and  was  conducted  by  the  Emperor  to  the  door  of  the  hall.  On  a subsequent 
day  the  Emperor  returned  the  visit  with  similar  ceremonies. — Ed. 


460 


DELHI. 


too,  however,  though  not  more  than  thirty-tive,  is  prematurely 
old,  arising  partly  from  the  early  excesses  into  which  the  wretched 
follies  of  an  eastern-  court  usually  plunge  persons  in  his  situation, 
— and  partly  from  his  own  subsequent  indulgence  in  strong  liquors. 
His  face  is  bloated  and  pimpled,  his  eyes  weak,  and  his  hand 
tremulous.  Yet,  for  an  Eastern  prince,  as  1 have  already  observed, 
his  character  is  good,  and  his  abilities  considered  as  above  the 
common  run. 

There  are,  perhaps,  few  royal  families  which  have  displayed 
during  their  power  so  many  vices  and  so  few  virtues  as  the  house 
of  Timour.  Their  power  had  been  gradually  declining  ever 
since  the  time  of  Aurungzebe,  and  at  present,  Mr.  Elliott  once 
observed  to  me,  that  he  could  not  perceive  the  least  chance,  that, 
supposing  our  empire  in  the  east  to  be  at  an  end,  the  King  of 
Delhi  could  for  a moment  recover  any  share  of  authority.  He 
did  not  even  think  that  the  greater  princes  of  India,  who  would 
fight  for  our  spoils,  would  any  of  them  think  it  worth  their  while 
to  make  use  of  the  Emperor’s  name,  as  a pageant  to  sanction  their 
own  ambitious  views  ; and  he  observed  that,  all  things  considered, 
few  captive  and  dethroned  princes  had  ever  experienced  so  much 
liberality  and  courtesy  as  they  had  from  British  hands,  and  that 
they  could  not  reasonably  hope  to  gain  by  any  diminution  of  our 
influence  in  India.  Yet  their  present  circumstances  are  surely 
pitiable,  as  well  as  an  awful  instance  of  the  instability  of  human 
greatness.  The  gigantic  genius  of  Tamerlane,  and  the  distin- 
guished talents  of  Acbar,  throw  a sort  of  splendour  over  the 
crimes  and  follies  of  his  descendants ; and  1 heartily  hope  that 
Government  will  reverence  the  ruins  of  fallen  greatness,  and  that, 
at  least,  no  fresh  degradation  is  reserved  for  the  poor  old  man 
whose  idea  was  associated  in  my  childhood  with  all' imaginable 
wealth  and  splendour,  under  the  name  of  “ the  Great  Mogul !” 

January  2. — This  day,  being  Sunday,  I confirmed  about 
twenty  persons,  and  I afterwards  preached  and  administered  the 
Sacrament,  Mr.  Fisher  reading  prayers  ; the  congregation  was 
numerous,  and  there  were  near  forty  communicants.  In  the 
evening  also  we  had  a good  congregation.  I was  persecuted 
during  a great  part  of  the  day  with  people  who  could  not  be  per- 
suaded that  I had  no  interest  with  Government,  and  who,  in  spite 
of  my  reminding  them  that  I knew  nothing  of  them  or  their 
character,  kept  prostrating  themselves  before  me  to  get  recom- 
mendatory letters  to  this  judge  or  that  collector.  Some  of  the 
better  sort,  such  as  Soobin  Chund,  w^ere  contented,  indeed,  with 
a sort  of  certificate  under  my  seal,  that  they  had  associated  with 
me.  These  I readily  gratified,  but  this  increased  the  clamours 
of  the  rest,  till  I was  obliged  to  order  the  sentry  at  the  door  to 


DELHI. 


461 


turn  them  all  away,  and  to  admit  no  more  natives  to  me  on 
any  pretence  whatever.  Such  were  the  chief  events  of  my  last 
day  in  Delhi. 

I forgot  to  mention  in  its  proper  place  that  the  ornaments  and 
shawls  which  I received  from  the  Emperor  were  valued  to  me 
at  two  hundred  and  eighty-four  sicca  rupees.  The  horse  was 
reported  to  be  barely  worth  thirty  rupees,  but  as  I declined  re- 
deeming him  from  the  Company’s  hands  I never  saw  him. 


462 


CHAPTER  XX. 


, DELHI  TO  AGRA. 

RUINS  OP  TOGHLIKABAD VISIT  TO  THE  RAJA  OP  BULLUMGHUR— DAN- 
CING GIRLS NAWAB  OP  SIKRE HINDOO  PILGRIMAGE  TO  BINDRA- 

BUND- — MUTTRA — SACRED  MONKEYS — DEATH  OF  ONE  REVENGED 

LEPERS — PARTY  OP  FAQUIRS — ESCAPE  OF  TRIMBUKJEE — TOMB  OF 

ACBAR — PUBLIC  BUILDINGS DEWANNY  AUM TAGE-MAHAL — ABDUL 

MUSSEEH — FRENCH  IN  CENTRAL  INDIA. 

January  3. — This  morning  early  I sent  off  my  tents  and  bag- 
gage to  Furreedabad,  a little  town  about  fifteen  miles  from  Delhi, 
and  in  the  afternoon  followed  them  on  horseback,  escorted  by 
five  of  Skinner’s  horse,  and  accompanied  by  Mr.  Lushington  and 
Dr.  Smith.  We  passed  by  Humaioon’s  tomb,  and  thence  through 
a dreary  country  full  of  ruins,  along  a stony  and  broken  road 
marked  out  at  equal  distances  of  about  a mile  and  a half,  by  solid 
circular  stone  obelisks,  “ coss  minars,”  erected  during  the  pros- 
perous times  of  the  empire  of  Delhi.  Half  way  to  Furreedabad 
we  passed  the  gigantic  ruins  of  Toghlikabad,  on  a hill  about  a 
coss  to  our  right.  I regretted  that  we  could  not  see  them  nearer, 
but  the  stage  was  of  sufficient  length  for  our  horses  and  the  few 
remaining  hours  of  day-light  without  this  addition.  Mr.  Elliott 
described  them  as  chiefly  interesting  from  their  vast  dimensions, 
and  the  bulk  and  weight  of  the  stones  employed  in  them.  They 
were  the  work  of  Toghlou  Khan,  one  of  the  early  Patan  sove- 
reigns. 

F urreedabad  offers  nothing  curious  except  a large  tank  with  a 
ruined  banqueting-house  on  its  shore ; it  has  a grove  of  tamarind 
and  other  trees  round  it,  but  no  mangoes  ; a few  of  these,  indeed, 
grow  in  the  province  of  Delhi,  owing  to  the  unusual  multitude  of 
white  ants,  to  whose  increase  the  ruins  and  the  dry  sandy  soil  are 
favourable,  and  who  attack  the  mangoes  in  preference  to  any 
other  tree.  The  whole  country,  indeed,  is  barren  and  disagreeable, 
and  the  water  bad.  That  of  the  Jumna  acts  on  strangers  like  the 
Cheltenham  waters,  and  the  wells  here  are  also  ^extremely  unpala- 
table. One  might  fancy  oneself  already  approaching  the  confines 
of  Persia  and  Arabia.  Our  camp  is,  however,  plentifully  supplied 
with  all  necessaries  and  comforts,  and  a servant  of  the  Raja  of 
Bullumghur  brought  us  some  fine  oranges,  and  at  the  same  time 
told  us,  that  his  master  would  not  suffer  him  to  receive  either 


A HINDOO  COURT. 


463 


payment  or  present  for  any  of  the  supplies  furnished,  and  only 
hoped  that  I would  call  at  his  house  next  morning  in  my  way, 
which  1 readily  promised  to  do.  The  Raja  of  Bullunaghur  holds 
a considerable  territory  along  this  frontier  as  a feudatory  of  the 
British  Government,  on  the  service  of  maintaining  two  thousand 
men  to  do  the  ordinary  police  duties,  and  guard  the  road  against 
the  Mewatta  and  other  predatory  tribes.  The  family  and  most 
of  their  people  are  of  the  Jat  race,  and  they  have  for  many  gene- 
rations been  linked  by  friendship  and  frequent  intermarriages 
with  the  neighbouring  Raja  of  Bhurtpoor,  who  is  now  our  friend, 
but  whose  gallant  and  successful  defence  of  his  castle  against 
Lord  Lake  during  the  Maharatta  war,  has  raised  the  character 
of  the  Jats,  previously  a very  low  caste,  to  considerable  estima- 
tion for  their  valour  in'  all  this  part  of  India.  The  present  acting 
Raja  of  Bullumghur  is  only  Regent,  being  guardian  to  his 
nephew,  a boy  now  educating  at  Delhi.  I had  heard  the  Regent 
and  his  brother  described  as  hospitable  and  high-spirited  men, 
and  was  not  sorry  to  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  a Hindoo 
court. 

January  4. — A little  before  day-break  we  set  of  as  usual, 
through  a country  something,  and  but  little,  more  fertile  than  that 
we  had  passed.  It  improved,  however,  gradually  as  we  ap- 
proached Bullumghur,  which,  by  its  extensive  groves,  gave  evi- 
dence of  its  having  been  long  a residence  of  a respectable  native 
family.  I was  not,  however,  at  all  prepared  for  the  splendour 
with  which  I was  received.  First  we  saw  some  of  the  wild- 
looking horsemen  whom  1 have  already  described,  posted  as  if  on 
the  look-out,  who,  on  seeing  us,  fired  their  matchlocks  and  gal- 
loped off  as  fast  as  possible.  As  we  drew  nearer  we  saw  a con- 
siderable body  of  cavalry  with  several  camels  and  elephants,  all 
gaily  caparisoned,  drawn  up  under  some  trees,  and  were  received 
by  the  Raja  himself,  a fat  and  overgrown  man,  and  his  younger 
brother,  a very  handsome  and  manly  figure,  the  former  alighting 
from  a palanquin,  the  other  from  a noble  Persian  horse,  with 
trappings  which  swept  the  ground.  I alighted  from  my  horse 
also,  and  the  usual  compliments  and  civilities  followed.  The 
elder  brother  begged  me  to  excuse  his  riding  with  me  as  he  was 
ill,  which  indeed  we  had  heard  before,  but  the  second  went  by 
my  side,  reining  in  his  magnificent  steed,  and  showing  off  the 
animal’s  paces  and  his  own  horsemanship.  Before  and  behind 
were  camels,  elephants,  and  horsemen,  with  a most  strange  and 
barbarous  music  of  horns,  trumpets,  and  kettle-drums,  and  such  a 
wood  of  spears  that  I could  not  but  tell  my  companion  that  his 
castle  deserved  its  name  of  Fort  of  Spears.  As  we  drew  nearer 
we  saw  the  fort  itself,  with  high  brick  walls,  strengthened  with  a 
deep  ditch  and  large  mud  bastions,  from  which  we  were  compli- 


4G4 


A HINDOO  COURT. 


mented  with  a regular  salute  of  cannon.  Within  we  found  a 
small  and  crowded,  but  not  ill-built  town,  with  narrow  streets, 
tall  houses,  many  temples,  and  a sufficient  number  of  Brahminy 
bulls  to  show  the  poor  Hindoo  descent  of  the  ruler.  The  popu- 
lation of  the  little  capital  was  almost  all  assembled  in  the  streets, 
on  the  walls,  and  on  the  house-tops,  and  salamed  to  us  as  we  came 
in.  We  passed  through  two  or  three  sharp  turns,  and  at  length 
stopped  at  the  outer  gate  of  a very  neat  little  palace,  built  round 
a small  court  planted  with  jonquils  and  rose  bushes,  with  a marble 
fountain  in  the  ceUtre,  and  a small  open  arched  hall,  where  chairs 
were  placed  for  us.  Sitringees  were  laid,  by  way  of  carpet,  on 
the  floor,  and  the  walls  were  ornamented  with  some  paltry  Hin- 
doo portraits  of  the  family,  and  some  old  fresco  paintings  of  gods, 
goddesses,  and  heroes,  encountering  lions  and  tigers. 

After  we  had  been  here  a few  minutes  a set  of  dancing  girls 
entered  the  room  followed  by  two  musicians.  1 felt  a little  un- 
easy at  this  apparition,  but  Dr.  Smith,  to  whom  I mentioned  my 
apprehensions,  assured  me  that  nothing  approaching  to  indecency 
was  to  be  looked  for  in  the  dances  or  songs  which  a well-bred 
Hindoo  exhibited  to  his  visiters.  I sat  still,  therefore,  while  these 
poor  little  girls,  for  they  none  of  them  seemed  more  than  fourteen, 
went  through  the  same  monotonous  evolutions  which  I had  heard 
my  wife  describe,  in  which  there  is  certainly  very  little  grace  or 
interest,  and  no  perceptible  approach  to  indecency.  The  chief 
part  of  the  figure,  if  it  can  be  called  so,  seemed  to  consist  in  draw- 
ing up  and  letting  fall  again  the  loose  wide  sleeves  of  their  outer 
garments,  so  as  to  show  the  arm  as  high  as  the  elbow,  or  a very 
little  higher,  while  the  arms  were  waved  backwards  and  forwards 
in  a stiff  and  constrained  manner.  Their  dresses  were  rich,  but 
there  was  such  an  enormous  quantity  of  scarlet  cloth  petticoats 
and  trowsers,  so  many  shawls  wrapped  round  their  waists,  and 
such  multifarious  skirts  peeping  out  below  each  other,  that  their 
figures  were  quite  hidden,  and  the  whole  effect  was  that  of  a num- 
ber of  Dutch  dolls,  though  the  faces  of  two  or  three  out  of  the 
number  were  pretty.  Two  sung  each  a Persian  and  a Hindoos- 
tanee  song  with  very  pleasing  though  not  powerful  voices,  after 
which,  as  the  demands  both  of  curiosity  and  civility  were  satisfied, 
I gave  them  a gratuity,  as  I understood  was  usual  on  such  occa- 
sions, as  a token  of  their  dismissal. 

After  this  some  cake  and  Persian  grapes  were  brought  in,  and 
I took  leave,  having  in  the  civilest  and  most  cordial  way  I could, 
declined  the  usual  present  of  shawls,  and  accepted  one  of  fruit 
and  sweetmeats.  On  going  away  I told  the  Raja’s  jernautdar  to 
come  to  the  camp  in  the  evening,  and  he  and  his  fellow-servants 
should  have  the  usual  bukshish,  but  he  answered  that  neither  he 
nor  any  of  the  Raja’s  people,  except  the  dancing  girls  to  whouj 


CASSIM  ALl  KHAN. 


465 


it  was  an  usual  token  of  approbation,  dared  accept  any  thing  of 
the  kind,  the  first  instance  which  I had  met  with  of  a Hindoo 
refusing  money.  Soon  after  1 had  taken  leave,  and  while  we  were 
still  escorted  by  the  Bullumghur  cavalry,  a message  came  from 
the  Raja  to  say  that  he  had  heard  of  my  intended  liberality  to  his 
people,  but  that  it  was  his  particular  request  that  I would  give 
nothing  either  to  his  servants  or  to  the  suwarrs,  whom  he  intended, 
with  my  leave,  to  send  on  with  me  as  far  as  Muttra.  Surely  this 
is  what  in  England  would  be  called  high  and  gentlemardy  feeling. 

On  our  approach  to  Sikre,  where  the  tents  were  pitched,  I 
found  we  had  entered  another  little  feudal  territory,  being  received 
by  about  twenty  horsemen,  with  a splendid  old  warrior  at  their 
head,  who  announced  himself  as  the  jaghiredar  of  the  place,  and 
holding  a little  barony,  as  it  would  be  called  in  Europe,  under  the 
Company,  intermixed  with  the  larger  territories  of  Bullumghur. 
Cassim  Ali  Khan,  the  Nawab  of  Sikre,  who  thus  introduced  him- 
self, was  a figure  which  Wouvermans  or  Rubens  would  have  de- 
lighted to  paint,  a tall,  large,  elderly  man,  with  a fine  countenance, 
and  a thick  and  curly  but  not  long  gray  beard,  on  a large  and 
powerful  white  Persian  horse,  with  a brocade  turban,  a saddle- 
cloth of  tiger’s  skin  with  golden  tassels  which  almost  swept  the 
ground,  sword,  shield,  and  pistols  mounted  with  silver,  and  all  the 
other  picturesque  insignia  of  a Mussulman  cavalier  of  distinction. 
He  said  that  he  had  been  a tusseldar  in  command  of  two  hun- 
dred horse  in  Lord  Lake’s  war,  and  had  been  recompensed  at  the 
end  of  the  contest  with  a little  territory  of  ten  villages,  rent  and 
tax  free.  The  Raja,  he  said,  who* had  two  hundred  and  fifty  vil- 
lages, nearly  enclosed  him,  but  they  were  good  friends.  The  Raja 
certainly,  though  his  brother  is  a fine  young  man,  had  nothing  in 
his  whole  cavalcade  to  equal  the  old  jNawab’s  figure,  which  was 
perfect  as  a picture,  from  his  bare  muscular  neck  and  his  crisp 
gray  mustachios,  down  to  his  yellow  boots  and  the  strong  brown 
hand,  with  an  emerald  ring  on  it,  the  least  turn  of  which  on  his 
silver  bridle  seemed  to  have  complete  mastery  over  his  horse, 
without  too  much  repressing  its  spirit.  He  afterwards  showed 
me  his  certificates  of  service  from  Lord  Lake  and  others,  and  it 
appeared  that  his  character  in  all  respects  had  corresponded  with 
his  manly  and  intelligent  appearance. 

At  Sikre,  I found  a letter  from  Mr.  Cavendish,  collector  and 
magistrate  of  this  district,  saying  that  he  was  encamped  in  the 
neighbourhood  and  intended  to  call  on  me  next  morning  at  our 
next  station,  at  Brahminy  Kerar. 

January  5. — The  country  between  Sikre  and  Brahminy  Kerar 
is  uninteresting  enough,  though  rather  more  fertile  than  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Delhi.  Half  way,  near  a village  named  Pulwul, 
we  passed  Mr.  Cavendish’s  encampment,  and  were  met  by  an 

VoL.  I. — 59 


466 


PROVINCE  OF  DELHI— HORALo 


escort  of  his  suwarrs.  1 had  long  since  had  my  eyes  pretty  well 
accustomed  to  the  sight  of  shields  and  spears,  but  1 have  not  failed 
to  observe  that,  along  this  frontier  which  has  not  been  till  of  late 
in  a settled  or  peaceable  state,  and  where  hard  blows  are  still  of 
no  unfrequent  occurrence,  even  the  police  troopers  sit  their  horses 
better,  and  have  a more  martial  air  by  far,  than  persons  in  the 
same  situation  in  the  Dooab,  or  even  in  Rohilcund.  I begin, 
indeed,  to  think  better  of  the  system  on  which  the  province  of 
Delhi  ha^  been  governed  since  its  conquest,  from  all  which  I hear 
of  its  former  state.  This  neighbourhood,  for  instance,  is  still  but 
badly  cultivated,  but  fifteen  years  ago  it  was  as  wild,  I am  assured, 
as  the  Terrai,  as  full  of  tigers,  and  with  no  human  inhabitants  but 
banditti.  Cattle-stealing  still  prevails  to  a great  extent,  but  the 
Mewattees  are  now  most  of  them  subject  either  to  the  British 
Government,  or  that  of  Bhurtpoor,  and  the  security  of  life  and 
property  afforded  them  by  the  former,  has  induced  many  of  the 
tribes  to  abandon  their  fortresses,  to  seat  themselves  in  the  plain 
and  cultivate  the  ground  like  honest  men  and  good  subjects,  while 
the  tranquillity  of  the  border,  and  the  force  maintained  along  it, 
prevents  the  Bhurtpoor  marauders  from  renewing  their  depre- 
dations so  often  as  they  used  to  do.  Highway  robberies  also 
sometimes  occur,  generally  attended  with  murder ; but,  on  the 
whole,  the  amendment  has  J^een  great,  and  an  European,  under 
ordinary  circumstances,  may  pass  in  safety  through  any  part  of  the 
district.  The  lands  are  not  now  highly  assessed,  and  Government 
has  liberally  given  up  half  the  year’s  rent  in  consideration  of  the 
drought.  Still,  however,  som^hing  more  is  wanting,  and  every 
public  man  in  these  provinces  appears  to  wish  that  a settlement 
for  fourteen  or  even  twenty  years  could  be  brought  about,  in  order 
to  give  the  Zemindars  an  interest  in  the  soil  and  an  inducement 
to  make  improvements. 

At  Brahminy  Kerar  are  a few  ruins,  but  nothing  worthy  parti- 
cular notice.  The  coss-minars  still  make  their  appearance,  but 
at  very  uncertain  distances,  great  numbers  having  been  destroyed 
or  gone  to  decay.  Indeed  the  road  does  not  always  follow  its 
ancient  line. 

January  6. — We  went  on  eight  coss  to  Horal.  The  country 
along  the  road  side  is  jungly,  but  cultivation  seems  rapidly  gaining 
on  it.  The  road  side  is,  in  India,  always  the  part  last  cultivated, 
the  natives  being  exposed  to  many  injuries  and  oppressions  from 
sepioys  and  travellers.  I was  told  that  for  every  bundle  of  grass 
or  faggots  which  the  thannadar,  or  other  public  officer,  brought 
to  my  camp,  he  demanded  as  much  more  from  the  poor  peasants, 
which  he  appropriated  to  his  own  use ; and  that,  even  if  I paid 
for  what  I got,  it  required  much  attention,  and  some  knowledge 
of  the  language,  to  be  sure  that  the  money  was  not  intercepted 


DIIOTAMA. 


467 


in  its  way  to  the  right  owner.  But  the  common  practice  of  the 
thannadar  was,  to  charge  nothing  for  what  was  furnished  to  the 
traveller,  both  from  wishing  to  make  a compliment  to  the  latter, 
(which  costs  him  nothing,)  and  also  to  take,  without  the  means 
of  detection,  his  own  share  of  the  plunder.  The  best  way  is  to 
insist  on  a written  bill,  and  request  the  collector  afterwards  to 
inquire  of  the  Ryuts  whether  the  money  had  been  paid. 

At  Horal  is  a very  pretty  native  house,  now  uninhabited,  but 
used  as  a court  of  justice,  with  a fine  tank  near  it,  both  the  work 
of  a former  Hindoo  jemautdar,  in  memory  of  whom  a small  tem- 
ple is  raised  in  the  neighbourhood.  Within  I saw  the  representa- 
tion of  four  human  feet,  one  pair  larger  than  the  other,  on  a little 
altar  against  the  w^all,  and  was  told  that  it  was  the  customary 
way  of  commemorating  that  the  favourite  wife  had  burnt  herself 
with  her  husband.  This  horrible  custom,  1 am  glad  to  find,  is 
by  no  means  common  in  this  part  of  India ; indeed,  I have  not 
yet  found  it  common  any  where  except  in  Bengal,  and  some  parts 
of  Bahar. 

January  7. — From  Horal  to  Dhotana,  in  the  province  of  Agra, 
is  seven  coss,  a wild,  but  more  woody  country  than  we  had  lately 
traversed.  By  woody,  as  distinct  from  jungle,  1 mean  that  a 
good  many  fine  trees  were  seen.  At  Dhotana  I saw  the  first 
instance  of  a custom  which  I am  told  1 shall  see  a good  deal  of 
in  my  southern  journey, — a number  of  women,  about  a dozen, 
who  came  with  pitchers  on  their  heads,  dancing  and  singing,  to 
meet  me.  There  is,  if  I recollect  right,  an  account  of  this  sort 
of  dance  in  Kehama.  They  all  professed  to  be  “Gaopiaree,”  or 
milk-maids,  and  are  in  fact,  as  the  thannadar  assured  me,  the 
wives  and  daughters  of  the  Gaowala  caste.  Their  voices  and 
style  of  singing  were  by  no  means  unpleasing ; they  had  all  the 
appearance  of  extreme  poverty,  and  I thought  a rupee  well 
bestowed  upon  them,  for  which  they  were  very  thankful.  There 
are  many  indications,  along  all  this  route,  of  great  distress  and 
poverty  arising  from  the  long  drought,  but  less,  very  far  less,  than 
to  the  north  of  Delhi ; and  what  is  remarkable,  there  are  few 
professed  beggars  or  faquirs.  Those  who  have  recently  asked 
for  charity  have  been  poor  women  with  young  children,  or  men 
wandering,  as  they  say,  in  search  of  work. 

We  were  this  day  met  by  some  suwarrs  from  the  Judge  of 
Agra,  and  I therefore  dismissed  the  horse  of  Bullumghur.  To 
take  with  me  more  than  enough  was  only  burdening  the  people ; 
and  since  I was  not  to  pay  them,  I apprehend  they  were  not  sorry 
to  receive  their  dismissal.  1 sent  with  them  a letter  of  thanks  to 
the  Raja. 

January  8. — From  Dhotana  to  Jeyt,  the  next  stage,  is  a long 
sixteen  miles,  through  a wild  country.  On  our  left,  at  a distance 


468 


BINDRABUND— MUTTRA, 


of  two  or  three  miles,  we  passed  Bindrabund,  a large  town  on 
the  banks  of  the  Jumna,  celebrated  among  the  Hindoos  for  its 
sanctity,  and  the  wealth  of  its  pagodas.  I was  sorry  that  I 
could  not  visit  it,  but  I believe  there  was  not  really  much  to 
regret.  The  buildings  are  ancient,  but  all  mean  ; and  the  pecu- 
liarities of  the  place  are,  chiefly,  its  amazing  swarms  of  sacred 
monkeys,  and  the  no  less  amazing  crowd  of  filthy  and  profligate 
devotees,  who  crowd  round  every  stranger,  not  so  much  asking, 
as  demanding  alms.  Through  all  this  country,  indeed,  notwith- 
standing its  vicinity  to  the  capital  of  Islam  in  the  East,  Hindooism 
seems  to  predominate  in  a degree  which  I did  not  expect  to  find. 
Few  or  none  of  the  people  have  Mussulman  names ; there  are 
abundant  pagodas  and  scarcely  one  mosque,  and  T have  seldom 
seen  any  peasantry  with  so  many  Brahminical  or  Rajpoot  strings 
among  them.  The  villages  and  jungles  near  them  are  all  full  of 
peacocks,  another  symptom  of  Hindooism,  since  the  Mussulmans 
would  soon  make  havoc  among  these  beautiful  but  well-tasted 
birds.  Most  of  the  names  which  I have  heard  are  followed  by 
the  affix  of  “ Singh,”  a lion  : this  ought  to  belong  to  the  Rajpoots 
alone,  but  at  present  all  the  Jats  claim  it,  as  well  as  the  Seiks 
who,  as  having  relinquished  Hindooism,  have  no  apparent  right 
to  any  distinction  of  the  kind.  1 know  not  whether  this  may  be 
regarded  as  additional  grounds  for  the  suspicion  which  1 have 
some  time  entertained,  that  the  distinction  of  caste  weighs  less  on 
men’s  minds  than  it  used  to  do. 

But  though  I was  easily  reconciled  to  the  omission  of  Bindra- 
bund, all  my  party  were  not  so,  and  five  sepoys  applied  for  leave 
to  go  there,  promising  to  rejoin  me  at  Muttra,  a permission  which 
I readily  gave  them.  This,  however,  was  followed  by  a similar 
request  from  more  than  half  my  little  army,  with  the  venerable 
soubahdar  at  their  head,  besides  the  goomashta  of  the  camels, 
and  my  sirdar-bearer.  This  was  inconvenient,  but  it  was  not 
easily  avoided.  Some  of  them  were  Brahmins,  some  Rajpoots, 
some  had  vows  on  them,  and  all  were  so  deeply  impressed  with 
the  sanctity  of  Bindrabund,  that  they  were  extremely  anxious  not 
to  pass  it  by.  I gave,  therefore,  my  acquiescence  with  a good 
grace,  reminding  them  only  that  they  must  rejoin  me  on  Sunday 
evening,  as  1 meant  to  make  no  halt  in  Muttra. 

January  9,  Sunday. — From  Jeyt  to  Muttra  is  about  four  coss, 
the  country  still  wild,  but  apparently  more  fertile  than  most  of 
what  we  had  lately  seen.  Half-way  are  the  ruins  of  a very  large 
and  handsome  serai.  At  this  place  I was  met  by  Colonel  Penny, 
the  Commandant  of  Muttra,  with  several  other  officers,  who  rode 
with  us  through  the  town.  Muttra  is  a large  and  remarkable 
city,  much  reverenced  by  the  Hindoos  for  its  antiquity  and  con- 
nection with  many  of  their  legends,  more  particularly  as  the 


MUTTRA, 


469 


birth-place  of  their  fabulous  Krishna,  or  Apollo.  In  consequence 
it  swarms  with  paroquets,  peacocks,  brahminy  bulls,  and  monkeys, 
which  last  are  seen  sitting  on  the  tops  of  the  houses,  and  running 
along  the  walls  and  roofs  like  cats.  They  are  very  troublesome, 
and  admitted  to  be  so  by  the  Hindoos  themselves,  but  so  much 
respected  that,  a few  years  since,  two  young  officers  who  shot  at 
one  near  Bindrabund,  were  driven  into  the  Jumna,  where  they 
perished,  by  a mob  of  Brahmins  and  devotees.  In  other  respects, 
also,  Muttra  is  a striking  town,  and  a good  deal  reminded  me  of 
Benares,  the  houses  being  very  high  with  the  same  sort  of  orna- 
ments as  in  that  city.  There  is  a large  ruinous  castle  on  the 
shore  of  the  Jumna,  and  a magnificent,  though  dilapidated  mosque, 
with  four  very  tall  minarets.  In  the  centre,  or  nearly  so,  of  the 
town.  Colonel  Penny  took  us  into  the  court  of  a beautiful  temple, 
or  dwelling-house,  for  it  seemed  to  be  designed  for  both  in  one, 
lately  built,  and  not  yet  quite  finished,  by  Gokul  Pattu  Singh, 
Sindia’s  treasurer,  and  who  has  also  a principal  share  in  a great 
native  banking-house,  one  branch  of  which  is  fixed  at  Muttra. 
The  building  is  enclosed  by  a small  but  richly-carved  gateway, 
with  a flight  of  steps  which  leads  from  the  street  to  a square 
court,  cloistered  round,  and  containing  in  the  centre  a building 
also  square,  supported  by  a triple  row  of  pillars,  all  which,  as 
well  as  the  ceiling,  are  richly  carved,  painted,  and  gilt.  The 
effect,  internally,  is  much  like  that  of  the  Egyptian  tomb,  of  which 
the  model  was  exhibited  in  London  by  Belzoni ; externally,  the 
carving  is  very  beautiful.  The  cloisters  round  were  represented 
to  us  as  the  intended  habitation  of  the  Brahmins  attached  to  the 
fane ; and  in  front,  towards  the  street,  were  to  be  apartments  for 
the  founder  in  his  occasional  visits  to  Muttra. 

The  cantonments  are  separated  from  the  rest  of  the  town,  by 
a small  interval  of  broken  ground  covered  with  ruins.  The 
buildings  are  very  extensive  and  scattered  over  a wide  plain,  but 
the  greater  part  of  them  unoccupied,  the  forces  now  maintained 
here  not  being  half  so  numerous  as  they  used  to  be  before  the 
establishment  of  Nusseerabad  and  Neemuch,  and  the  consequent 
removal  of  our  advanced  corps  to  a great  distance  westward. 
Still  Muttra  is  an  important  station,  from  the  vicinity  of  many 
wild  and  independent,  though,  at  present,  friendly  Rajas,  and 
from  its  forming  a necessary  link  between  Agra  and  the  northern 
stations. 

We  breakfasted  with  Colonel  Penny,  who  had  provided  an 
empty  bungalow  for  Divine  service.  I had  a congregation  of 
about  twenty-five  persons,  six  of  whom  staid  for  the  Sacrament, 
and  I afterwards  baptized  some  children.  A miserable  leper 
came  soon  after  to  ask  alms,  who  said  he  had  heard  of  my  passing 
through  the  country  and  had  come  two  days’ journey  to  beg  from 


470 


MUTTRA. 


me.  He  was  quite  naked  except  a very  small  rag  round  his 
waist;  his  fingers  had  all  nearly  rotted  off,  and  his  legs  and  feet 
were  in  a wretched  condition.  I have  seen,  1 think,  fewer  of 
these  objects  in  Hindostan  than  in  Bengal,  but  those  I have  seen 
are  in  every  respect  most  pitiable.  In  addition  to  the  horrors  of 
the  disease  itself,  the  accursed  religion  of  the  Hindoos  hold  them 
out  as  objects  of  Heaven’s  wrath,  and,  unless  they  expiate  their 
sins  by  being  buried  alive,  as  doomed  in  a future  life  to  Pada- 
Ion ! They  are  consequently  deprived  of  caste,  can  possess  no 
property,  and  share  far  less  than  most  other  mendicants  in  the 
alms  which  Hindoo  bounty  dispenses  in  general  with  a tolerably 
liberal  hand. 

About  two  o’clock  the  soubahdar  and  the  other  pilgrims  re- 
turned in  high  spirits,  having  all  bathed  and  gone  through  the 
necessary  ceremonies.  I completed  their  happiness  for  the  day 
by  an  arrangement  which  I made,  that  a guard  of  honour  which 
Colonel  Penny  had  assigned  me  should  stand  sentry  during  my 
stay  in  Muttra,  so  that  my  escort  should  have  the  evening  and 
night  to  themselves.  There  was  no  fear  of  this  permission  being 
abused;  they  were  all  tired, — they  had  eaten  their  meal, — and 
the  only  further  thing  they  desired  was  to  sleep  the  twelve  hours 
round. 

We  dined  with  Colonel  Penny,  and  met  a numerous  party  of 
officers.  The  chief  subjects  of  conversation  were  Nusseerabad, 
whither  1 was  going  and  which  several  of  the  party  had  recently 
left,  and  the  late  attack  and  plunder  of  Calpee.  Of  Nusseerabad 
the  most  dismal  account  was  given,  as  a barren  plain  on  the  verge 
of  the  great  salt  desert,  with  very  little  water,  and  that  little  bad, 
and  only  one  single  tree  in  the  whole  cantonment.  I know  not 
from  what  singular  fatality  it  has  arisen,  that  almost  all  the  prin- 
cipal establishments  of  the  English  in  India  have  been  fixed  in 
bad  situations.  The  reason  which  I have  heard  given  is  the  un- 
willingness of  Government  to  interfere  with  the  comforts  of  their 
subjects,  or  to  turn  out  people  from  their  farms  and  villages, 
which  has  compelled  them  to  fix  on  spots  previously  uninhabited 
and  untilled,  which  of  course,  in  an  ancient  peopled  country, 
have  generally  been  neglected  in  consequence  of  some  natural 
disadvantage.  But  it  would  be  so  easy,  at  a moderate  rate,  to 
recompense  any  Zemindar  or  Ryut  whom  a new  cantonment 
inconvenienced  ; and  the  bad  effects  of  an  unwholesomd,  or  other- 
wise ill  situated  station  are  so  great,  that  this  is  a reason  which, 
though  it  was  gravely  given,  I could  hardly  hear  with  gravity. 
The  fact,  however,  is  certain ; Secrole,  the  cantonments  at  Luck- 
now, nay,  Calcutta  itself,  are  all  abominably  situated.  I have 
heard  the  same  of  Madras ; and  now  the  lately  settled  cantonment 
of  Nusseerabad  appears  to  be  as  objectionable  as  any  of  them. 


FURRAH. 


471 


The  affair  at  Calpee  has  excited  great  surprise  not  unmixed 
with  alarm.  Many  of  the  party  maintained  that  Sindia  was  at 
the  bottom  of  the  transaction,  and  that  it  was  the  harbinger  of  a 
new  war  in  central  India;  but  one  gentleman,  who  came  lately 
from  Mhow,  had  no  suspicion  of  the  kind ; and  though  he  thought 
it  not  unlikely  that  the  marauders  in  question  had  been  assembled 
in  Sindia’s  territories,  he  did  not  think  that  the  Maharaja  was 
himself  inclined  to  break  with  us. 

January  10. — This  morning’s  stage  was  eight  coss,  to  a small 
village  called  Furrah;  it  is  built  in  a great  measure  within  the 
enclosure  of  what  has  been,  evidently,  a very  extensive  serai, 
whose  walls  seem  to  have  been  kept  up  as  a defence  to  the  vil- 
lage. They  have,  however,  not  been  its  only  defence,  since  on  a 
little  hill  immediately  above  it  is  a square  mud  fort,  with  a round 
bastion  at  each  flank,  and  a little  outwork  before  the  gate.  It  is 
now  empty  and  neglected,  but  has  evidently  been  in  recent  use, 
and  might  easily  be  again  put  into  sufficient  repair  to  answer 
every  purpose  for  which  such  a little  fortress  could  be  supposed 
calculated.  Most  of  the  villages  in  this  part  of  Hindostan  were 
anciently  provided  with  a similar  fastness,  where  the  peasantry, 
their  families,  and  cattle,  might  seek  refuge  in  case  of  the  ap- 
proach of  robbers  or  enemies.  The  strength  of  the  British 
Government,  and  the  internal  peace  which  has  flowed  from  it, 
have  made  these  precautions,  as  well  as  the  walls  and  towers  of 
the  greater  towns,  be  almost  universally  neglected,  though  the 
recent  misfortune  at  Calpee  appears  to  prove  that  such  means  of 
defence  may  yet  occasionally  have  their  value. 

The  people  and  tusseldar  of  Furrah  were  very  dilatory  in 
bringing  supplies,  and  the  sepoys  were  so  cold,  hungry,  and  indig- 
nant, that  I thought  there  would  have  been  broken  heads.  The 
tusseldar  at  length  made  his  appearance  in  a hackery  hung  with 
red  cloth,  and  drawn  by  two  very  fine  bullocks,  which  trotted 
almost  as  well  as  the  common  horses  of  the  country.  He  was 
followed  by  the  usual  aids,  and  matters  were  reconciled.  The 
peasantry,  my  servants  complained,  were  not  only  negligent,  but 
ftncivil,  and  seemed  to  have  heard,  probably  an  exaggerated  state- 
ment, of  the  sack  of  Calpee. 

Soon  after  we  had  encamped,  a numerous  party  of  faquirs,  and 
other  similar  vagabonds,  like  us,  as  it  seemed,  on  their  travels, 
appeared,  and  pitched  their  tents  at  a little  distance.  Dr.  Smith 
foretold  that  we  should  lose  some  property  by  this  contiguity,  but 
there  was  no  avoiding  it,  since  neither  in  law  nor  justice  could 
men  in  the  open  field  object  to  others,  travelling  like  themselves, 
taking  up  their  abode  in  the  same  vicinity.  In  one  respect,  they 
gave  us  less  trouble  than  might  have  been  expected,  since  they 
did  not  beg.  A party  of  them,  however,  came  forwards  with  a 


472 


ESCAPE  OF  TRIMBUKJEE. 


musician,  and  a boy  dressed  up  in  adjutant’s  feathers  with  a bill 
of  the  same  bird  fastened  to  his  head,  and  asked  leave  to  show  off 
some  tricks  in  tumbling  and  rope-dancing.  On  my  assenting,  in 
less  time  than  f could  have  supposed  possible,  four  very  long 
bamboos  were  fixed  in  the  ground,  and  a slack-rope  suspended 
between  them,  on  which  the  boy,  throwing  off  his  bird’s  dress, 
and  taking  a large  balancing-pole  in  his  hand,  began  to  exhibit  a 
series  of  tricks  which  proved  him  to  be  a funambulist  of  consider- 
able merit.  He  was  a little  and  very  thin  animal,  but  broad- 
shouldered  and  well  made,  and  evidently  possessed  of  no  common 
share'  of  strength  as  well  as  of  agility  and  steadiness.  Meantime, 
while  he  was  gamboling  above,  the  musician  below,  who  was  an 
old  man,  and  whose  real  or  assumed  name  was  Hajee  Baba,  went 
through  all  the  usual  jests  and  contortions  of  our  English  Mr. 
Merryman,”  sometimes  affecting  great  terror  at  his  companion’s 
feats  and  the  consequence  of  his  falling, — sometimes  bidding  him 
“ Salarn  to  the  Sahib  Log,”  or  challenging  him  to  still  greater 
feats  of  agility  and  dexterity. 

Our  road,  during  great  part  of  this  day’s  journey,  had  lain  by 
the  side  of  the  Jumna,  which  is  here  very  pretty,  a wide  and 
winding  stream,  with  woody  banks,  and  the  fields  in  its  vicinity 
more  fertile  and  green  than  any  which  I have  for  a long  time 
looked  on.  We  saw  a small  vessel  with  masts  and  sails  dropping 
down  the  river ; but,  except  during  the  rains,  its  navigation  is  here 
so  tedious  and  uncertain  that  few  boats  ever  come  up  so  high. 

I heard  this  morning  an  account  which  interested  and  amused 
me,  of  the  manner  in  which  the  Maharatta  chief,  Trimbukjee, 
whom  I saw  a prisoner  at  Chunar,  had  effected  his  escape  from 
the  British  the  first  time  he  was  seized  by  them.  He  was  kept 
in  custody  at  Tannah,  near  Bombay;  and  while  there,  a common- 
looking Maharatta  groom,  with  a good  character  in  his  hand, 
came  to  offer  his  services  to  the  commanding  officer.  He  was 
accepted,  and  had  to  keep  his  horse  under  the  window  of  Trim- 
bukjee’s  prison.  Nothing  remarkable  was  observed  in  his  con- 
duct, except  a more  than  usual  attention  to  his  horse,  and  a habit, 
while  currying  and  cleaning  him,  of  singing  verses  of  Maharatt^ 
songs,  all  apparently  relating  to  his  trade.  At  length  Trimbukjee 
disappeared,  and  the  groom  followed  him ; on  which  it  was  re- 
collected that  his  singing  had  been  made  up  of  verses  like  the 
following : 

“ Behind  the  bush  the  bowmen  hide, 

The  horse  beneath  the  tree; 

Where  shall  I find  a knight  will  ride 
The  jungle  paths  with  me  ? 

There  are  five  and  fifty  coursers  there, 

And  four  and  fifty  men ; 

When  the  fifty-fifth  shall  mount  his  steed, 

The  Dcckan  thrives  again !” 


TOMB  OF  ACBAR. 


473 


This  might  have  been  a stratagem  of  the  Scottish  border,  so  com- 
plete  a similarity  of  character  and  incident  does  a resemblance  of 
habit  and  circumstance  produce  among  mankind. 

January  1 1 . — -This  morning  we  arrived  at  Secundra,  nine  coss 
from  Furrah,  a ruinous  village  and  without  a bazar,  but  remark- 
able for  the  magnificent  tomb  of  Acbar,  the  most  splendid  building 
in  its  way  which  I had  yet  seen  in  India.  It  stands  in  a square 
area  of  about  forty  English  acres,  enclosed  by  an  embattled  wall, 
with  octagonal  towers  at  the  angles  surmounted  by  open  pavilions, 
and  four  very  noble  gateways  of  red  granite,  the  principal  of  which 
is  inlaid  with  white  marble,  and  has  four  high  marble  minarets. 
The  space  within  is  planted  with  trees  and  divided  into  green 
alleys,  leading  to  the  central  building,  which  is  a sort  of  solid 
pyramid  surrounded  externally  with  cloisters,  galleries,  and  domes, 
diminishing  gradually  on  ascending  it,  till  it  ends  in  a square  plat- 
form of  white  marble,  surrounded  by  most  elaborate  lattice-work 
of  the  same  material,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a small  altar  tomb, 
also  of  white  marble,  carved  with  a delicacy  and  beauty  which 
do  full  justice  to  the  material,  and  to  the  graceful  forms  of  Arabic 
characters  which  form  its  chief  ornament.  At  the  bottom  of  the 
building,  in  a small  but  very  lofty  vault,  is  the  real  tomb  of  this 
great  monarch,  plain  and  unadorned,  but  also  of  white  marble. 
There  are  many  other  ruins  in  the  vicinity,  some  of  them  appa- 
rently handsome,  but  Acbar’s  tomb  leaves  a stranger  little  time  or 
inclination  to  look  at  any  thing  else.  Government  have  granted 
money  for  the  repair  of  the  tomb,  and  an  oflicer  of  engineers  is 
employed  on  it.  A seijeant  of  artillery  is  kept  in  the  place,  who 
lives  in  one  of  the  gateways ; his  business  is  to  superintend  a plan- 
tation of  sissoo-trees  made  by  Dr.  Wallich.  He  says  the  soil  does 
not  appear  to  suit  them ; they  grow^,  however,  but  by  no  means 
rapidly.  For  fruit  trees,  particularly  the  orange,  the  soil  is  very 
favourable,  and  the  tall  tamarinds  and  the  generally  neglected 
state  of  the  garden  afford  more  picturesque  points  of  view  than 
large  buildings  usually  are  seen  in. 

The  next  morning,  January  12th,  we  proceeded  to  Mr.  Irving’s 
house  near  Agra,  about  six  miles,  through  a succession  of  ruins, 
little  less  contiguous  and  desolate  than  those  round  Delhi.  I 
noticed,  however,  that  some  of  the  old  tombs  have  been  formed 
into  dwelling  houses,  and  Mr.  Irving’s  is  one  of  this  description. 
I found  there  a very  comfortable  room  prepared  for  myself,  with 
plenty  of  space  in  the  compound  for  my  encampment. 

In  the  evening,  I went  with  Mr.  Irving  to  see  the  city,  the  fort, 
and  the  Jumna  Musjeed.  The  city  is  large,  old,  and  ruinous, 
with  little  to  attract  attention  beyond  that  picturesque  mixture 
of  houses,  balconies,  projecting  roofs,  and  groups  of  people  in 
the  eastern  dress,  which  is  common  to  all  Indian  towns.  The 
VoL.  J. — 60 


474  PALACE  OF  ACBAR— ABDUL  MUSSEEH. 

fort  is  very  large  and  ancient,  surrounded  with  high  walls  and  ‘ 
towers  of  red  stone,  which  command  some  noble  views  of  the  city, 
its  neighbourhood,  and  the  windings  of  the  Jumna.  The  princi- 
pal sights,  however,  which  it  contains,  are  the  Motee  Musjeed,  a 
beautiful  mosque  of  white  marble,  carved  with  exquisite  simplicity 
and  elegance,  and  the  palace  built  by  Acbar,  in  a great  degree  of 
the  same  material,  and  containing  some  noble  rooms,  now  sadly 
disfigured  and  destroyed  by  neglect,  and  by  being  used  as  ware- 
houses, armories,  offices,  and  lodging  rooms  for  the  garrison. 

The  hall,  now  used  as  the  “ Dewanny  Aum,”  or  public  court 
of  justice,  is  a splendid  edifice,  supported  by  pillars  and  arches  of 
white  marble,  as  large  and  more  nobly  simple  than  that  of  Delhi. 
The  ornaments,  carving,  and  Mosaic  of  the  smaller  apartments, 
in  which  was  formerly  the  Zennana,  are  equal  or  superior  to  any 
thing  which  is  described  as  found  in  the  Alhambra.  The  view, 
from  these  rooms  is  very  fine,  at  the  same  time  that  there  are 
some,  adapted  for  the  hot  winds,  from  which  light  is  carefully 
excluded.  This  suite  is  lined  with  small  mirrors  in  fantastic 
frames;  a cascade  of  water,  also  surrounded  by  mirrors,  has  been 
made  to  gush  from  a recess  at  the  upper  end,  and  marble  chan- 
nels, beautifully  inlaid  with  cornelians,  agates,  and  jasper,  convey 
the  stream  to  every  side  of  the  apartment.  In  another  of  the 
towers  are  baths  of  equal  beauty,  one  of  which,  a single  block  of 
white  marble.  Lord  Hastings  caused  to  be  forced  up  from  its 
situation,  not  without  considerable  injury  both  to  the  bath  itself 
and  the  surrounding  pavement,  in  order  to  carry  it  down  to  Cal- 
cutta. It  was,  however,  too  heavy  for  the  common  budgerow  in 
use  on  the  Jumna,  and  the  bath  remains  to  shame  its  spoliator. 
Should  the  plan,  which  has  been  often  talked  of,  of  having  a 
separate  Government  for  central  India  ever  be  carried  into  exe- 
cution, this  would  unquestionably  be  the  Government  house.  It 
might  still  be  restored  at  less  expense  than  building  a new  resi- 
dence for  the  Governor,  and  there  is,  at  present,  no  architect  in 
India  able  to  build  even  a lodge  in  the  same  style.  The  Jumna 
Musjeed  is  not  by  any  means  so  fine  as  that  of  Delhi.  It  is  very 
picturesque,  however,  and  the  more  so  from  its  neglected  state, 
and  the  grass  and  peepul  trees  which  grow  about  its  lofty  domes. 

Archdeacon  Corrie’s  celebrated  convert,  Abdul  Musseeh, 
breakfasted  this  morning  at  Mr.  Irving’s ; he  is  a very  fine  old 
man,  with  a magnificent  gray  beard,  and  much  more  gentlemanly 
manners  than  any  Christian  native  whom  I have  seen.  His  rank, 
indeed,  previous  to  his  conversion,  was  rather  elevated,  since  he 
was  master  of  the  jewels  to  the  court  of  Oude,  an  appointment 
of  higher  estimation  in  eastern  palaces  than  in  those  of  Europe, 
and  the  holder  of  which  has  always  a high  salary.  Abdul  Mus- 
seeh’s  present  appointments,  as  Christian  missionary,  are  sixty 


TAGE-MAHAL. 


475 


rupees  a month,  and  of  this  he  gives  away  at  least  half!  Who 
can  dare  to  say  that  this  man  has  changed  his  faith  from  any 
interested  motives  ? He  is  a very  good  Hindoostanee,  Persian, 
and  Arabic  scholar,  but  knows  no  English.  There  is  a small 
congregation  of  native  Christians,  converted  by  Mr.  Corrie  when 
he  was  chaplain  at  Agra,  and  now  kept  together  by  Abdul  Mus- 
seeh.  The  earnest  desire  of  this  good  man  is  to  be  ordained  a 
clergyman  of  the  Church  of  England,  and  if  God  spares  his  life 
and  mine,  I hope,  during  the  Ember  weeks  in  this  next  autumn, 
to  confer  orders  on  him.  He  is  every  way  fit  for  them,  and  is  a 
most  sincere  Christian,  quite  free,  so  far  as  I could  observe,  from 
all  conceit  or  enthusiasm.  His  long  eastern  dress,  his  long  gray 
beard,  and  his  calm,  resigned  Countenance,  give  him  already 
almost  the  air  of  an  apostle."^ 

January  13. — I went  to  see  the  celebrated  Tage-mahal,  of 
which  it  is  enough  to  say  that,  after  hearing  its  praises  ever  since 
I had  been  in  India,  its  beauty  rather  exceeded  than  fell  short  of 
my  expectations.  There  was  much,  indeed,  which  I was  not 
prepared  for.  The  surrounding  garden,  which,  as  well  as  the 
Tage  itself,  is  kept  in  excellent  order  by  Government,  with  its 
marble  fountains,  beautiful  cypresses  and  other  trees,  and  profu- 
sion of  flowering  shrubs,  contrasts  very  finely  with  the  white 
marble  of  which  the  tomb  itself  is  composed,  and  takes  off,  by 
partly  concealing  it,  from  that  stiffness  which  belongs  more  or 
less  to  every  highly  finished  building.  The  building  itself  is  raised 
on  an  elevated  terrace  of  white  and  yellow  marble,  and  having 
at  its  angles  four  tall  minarets  of  the  same  material.  The  Tage 
contains,  as  usual,  a central  hall  about  as  large  as  the  interior  of 
the  Ratcliffe  library,  in  which,  enclosed  within  a carved  screen 
of  elaborate  tracery,  are  the  tombs  of  the  Begum  Noor-jehan, 
Shahjehan’s  beloved  wife,  to  whom  it  was  erected,  and  by  her 
side,  but  a little  raised  above  her,  of  the  unfortunate  Emperor 

* Abdul  Musseeh  was  converted  to  Christianity,  and  baptized  in  the  Old 
Church  at  Calcutta,  when  he  was  about  forty  years  of  age.  He  was,  subse- 
quently, employed  for  eight  years  by  the  Church  Missioifary  Society  as  catechist, 
and  received  Lutheran  ordination  in  the  year  1820  from  the  hands  of  the  mis- 
sionaries of  that  society.  In  December,  1825,  the  Bishop  conferred  on  him,  to- 
gether with  three  other  missionaries,  the  rite  of  Episcopal  ordination,  the  articles, 
wthe  various  oaths,  and  the  ordination  service,  having  been  translated,  for  his  use, 
into  Hindoostanee.  The  Bishop  also  read  a considerable  part  of  the  ceremony 
in  that  language.  Abdul  Musseeh,  immediately  after,  went  to  Lucknow,  where 
he  resided,  with,  the  exception-  of  a visit  to  Cawnpoor,  till  his  death,  which  hap- 
pened on  the  4th  of  March,  1827,  occasioned  by  mortification  proceeding  from 
a neglected  carbuncle.  The  Resident,  Mr.  Ricketts,  who  had  always  behaved 
to  him  with  the  utmost  kindness  and  liberality,  read  the  burial  service  at  his 
grave,  and  ordered  a monument  to  be  erected  to  his  memory,  with  an  inscription 
in  English  and  Persian.  Among  other  bequests,  Abdul  Musseeh  left  liis  books 
to  the  Bible  Society. — Ed. 


476 


AGRA. 


himself.  Round  this  hall  are  a number  of  smaller  apartments, 
corridors,  &c.  and  the  windows  are  carved  in  lattices  of  the  same 
white  marble  with  the  rest  of  the  building  and  the  screen.  The 
pavement  is  in  alternate  squares  of  white,  and  what  is  called  in 
Europe,  sienna  marble ; the  walls,  screens,  and  tombs  are  covered 
with  flowers  and  inscriptions,  executed  in  beautiful  Mosaic  of 
cornelians,  lapis-lazuli,  and  jasper;  and  yet,  though  every  thing 
is  finished  like  an  ornament  for  a drawing-room  chimney-piece, 
the  general  effect  produced  is  rather  solemn  and  impressive  than 
gaudy.  The  parts  which  I like  least  are  the  great  dome  and  the 
minarets.  The  bulbous  swell  of  the  former  I think  clumsy,  and 
the  minarets  have  nothing  to  recommend  them  but  their  height 
and  the  beauty  of  their  materials.  But  the  man  must  have  more 
criticism  -than  taste  or  feeling  about  him,  who  could  allow  such 
imperfections  to  weigh  against  the  beauties  of  the  Tage-mahal. 
The  Jumna  washes  one  side  of  the  garden,  and  there  are  some 
remains  of  a bridge  which  was  designed  by  Shahjehan  with  the 
intention,  as  the  story  goes,  to  build  a second  Tage  of  equal  beauty 
for  his  own  separate  place  of  interment,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river. 

On  that  side  are  some  interesting  ruins  of  other  structures, 
more  especially  the  tomb  of  Etmun  ut  Dowlah,  prime  minister  of 
Shahjehan.  It  is  said  to  be  very  beautiful,  but  I did  not  see  it, 
since  during  the  rest  of  my  stay  at  .Agra  1 was  confined  by  a 
feverish  cold,  and  was  barely  able  to  go  out  on  Friday  to  hold  a 
Confirmation,  with  a voice  more  completely  lost  than  I ever  re- 
member happening  to  me  before.  1 received  very  great  kindness 
and  hospitality  from  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Irving,  and  on  Sunday,  though 
against  Dr.  Smith’s  advice,  I preached  and  administered  the 
Sacrament,  and  did  not  feel  myself  the  worse  for  it. 

The  number  of  persons  confirmed  was  about  forty,  half  of  whom 
were  native  Christians,  mostly  old  persons  and  converts  of  Mr. 
Corrie’s  during  his  residence  here.  Abdul  Musseeh  told  me  there 
were  a good  many  more  scattered  up  and  down  in  the  neigh- 
bouring towns  of  Coel,  Allyghur,  and  Etwah,  whither  he  went 
from  time  to  timef  but  who  were  too  far  off  to  attend  on  this 
occasion.  Of  several  he  spoke  as  elderly  persons,  who  had  been 
in  the  Maharatta  service  during  Penn’s  time,  of  European  ex- 
traction, but  who  knew  no  language  but  Hindoostanee,  and  wer# 
very  glad  to  have  religious  instruction  afforded  them  in  that  lan- 
guage. Many  of  them  gladly  attend  on  his  and  Mr.  Irving’s 
ministry,  but  others  are  zealous  Roman  Catholics,  and  adhere 
closely  to  the  Priest  of  Agra. 

One  of  these  Indo-Europeans  is  an  old  Colonel  of  French 
extraction,  but  completely  Indian  in  colour,  dress,  language,  and 
ideas.  He  is  rich,  and  has  a large  family  of  daughters,  two  nr 


AGRA. 


477 


three  of  whom  he  has  married,  rather  advantageously,  to  some  of 
the  wealthy  country-born  English.  Bi#  no  man  is  allowed  to 
see  any  of  these  young  ladies  till  he  has  had  his  offer  accepted  by 
the  father,  and  till  it  is  perfectly  understood  that  he  is  pledged  to 
marry  one  of  them.  He  is  then  introduced  behind  the  purdahs 
of  the  Zennana,  and  allowed  to  take  his  choice ! The  poor  girls, 
of  course,  are  never  once  consulted  in  the  transaction.  Mr. 
Irving  celebrated  one  of  these  marriages,  at  which,  except  the 
bride,  no  female  was  visible,  though  he  was  told  that  the  rest 
were  allowed  to  peep  from  behind  the  curtains. 

1 took  this  opportunity  of  inquiring  in  what  degree  of  favour 
the  name  of  the  French  stood  in  this  part  of  India,  where,  for  so 
many  years  together,  it  was  paramount.  I was  told  that  many 
people  were  accustomed  to  speak  of  them  as  often  oppressive 
and  avaricious,  but  as  of  more  conciliating  and  popular  manners 
than  the  English  Sahibs.  Many  of  them,  indeed,  like  this  old 
Colonel,  had  completely  adopted  the  Indian  dress  and  customs, 
and  most  of  them  were  free  from  that  exclusive  and  intolerant 
spirit,  which  makes  the  English,  wherever  they  go,  a caste  by 
themselves,  disliking  and  disliked  by  all  their  neighbours.  Of 
this  foolish,  surly,  national  pride,  1 see  but  too  many  instances 
daily,  and  I am  convinced  it  does  us  much  harm  in  this  country. 
We  are  not  guilty  of  injustice  or  wilful  oppression,  but  we  shut 
out  the  natives  from  our  society,  and  a bullying,  insolent  manner 
is  continually  assumed  in  speaking  to  them. 


478 


CHAPTER  XXL 

AGRA  TO  JYEPOOR. 

PEEPAEATIONS  FOR  THE  JOURNEY  THROUGH  THE  INDEPENDENT  STATES 

OF  WESTERN  INDIA FUTTEHPOOR — ^^CITY  OF  ACBAR GREAT  MOSCIUE 

PALACE BHURTPOOR— MODE  OF  SINKING  WELLS LETTER  PROM 

THE  RAJA  OF  BHURTPOOR GOOD  STATE  OF  HIS  COUNTRY SIR  DAVID 

OCHTERLONY SIR  JOHN  MALCOLM WYRE MOWAH FRONTIER  OF 

JYEPOOR IDOL  CARRIED  TO  BINDRABUND DEOSA HINDOO  FESTI- 
VAL  ARRIVAL  AT  JYEPOOR. 

January  17. — I sent  olf  my  tents  this  morning  to  a small  vil- 
lage about  nine  miles  from  Agra,  and  two  on  the  Agra  side  of  the 
little  town  of  Kerowlee,  and  drove  over  myself  in  the  afternoon. 
I had  found  it  necessary,  during  my  stay  at  Agra,  to  make  many 
alterations  in,  and  some  additions  to  my  usual  domestic  arrange- 
ments, preparatory  to  leaving  the  Company’s  territory  for  my 
long  journey  through  the  independent  states  of  Rajpootana,  Mey- 
war,  &:c.  My  tents  were  only  adapted  for  cold  weather,  and 
would  prove  a very  insufficient  protection  against  either  the  sun 
or  the  storms  of  central  India,  being  of  European  construction, 
and  formed  simply  of  one  fold  of  thin  canvass  lined  with  baize. 
The  necessity  being  admitted  by  all  parties,  1 purchased  two, 
which  were  on  sale  in  the  city,  on  the  Company’s  account,  there 
being  none  of  any  sort  at  the  Depot.  My  new  lodgings  were  not 
so  roomy  or  convenient  as  my  old,  but  they  answered  very  well, 
and  every  body  tells  me  I shall  find  the  advantage  when  the  hot 
winds  begin  to  blow.  Another  necessary  was  a fresh  supply  of 
live-stock.  I had  before  been  content  to  carry  a few  fowls  on  the 
back  of  one  of  the  camels,  and  to  trust  to  the  supplies  which  the 
villages  afforded  for  a kid  or  a sheep  occasionally.  But  we  were 
now  going  to  countries  where  no  Mussulmans  are  found,  where 
there  are  few  great  cities,  and  a very  scattered  population  of 
villagers,  who  consume  po  animal  food  themselves, — who  have 
no  supplies  of  the  kind  for  strangers, — and,  above  all,  who  are 
now  in  a state  of  absolute  famine.  And  though  by  myself,  it 
must  be  a desolate  country  indeed  where  I should  feel  want,  I 
was  bound  to  consider  that  I was  not  alone,  and  that  my  com- 
panions also  required  attention.  I was  advised  to  buy  some 
sheep,  which  were  to  be  driven  with  us  and  killed  as  they  were 
wanted.  These,  with  some  salt  beef  and  tongues,  were  thought 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  JOURNEY. 


479 


sufficient  to  carry  us  to  Guzerat.  At  Nusseerabad  no  supplies  of 
any  kind  are  to  be  looked  for.  A solar  hat  and  green  shade  were 
next  recommended,  and  pressed  on  my  acceptance  by  the  kind- 
ness of  Mrs.  Irving.  A spare  saddle,  and  a store  of  horse-shoes, 
were  also  declared  to  be  necessary,  and,  in  short,  so  many  things 
were  to  be  procured,  that,  had  1 been  actually  going  into  the 
interior  of  Africa,  a less  formidable  preparation  might,  1 should 
have  thought,  have  sufficed.  Some  of  my  bearers,  too,  declared 
they  neither  would  nor  dared  go  beyond  the  limits  of  the  Com^ 
pany’s  Raj  ! This  was  at  first  likely  to  be  the  greatest  difficulty 
of  all,  since  there  were  at  Agra  none  to  be  obtained  who  would 
undertake  to  go  further  than  Nusseerabad,  and  there,  there  are 
absolutely  none  to  be  had.  A small  advance  of  wages,  however, 
induced  most  of  them  to  promise  anew  they  would  “ follow  me 
to  the  world’s  end.  The  very  deep  and  difficult  wells  which  1 
am  told  to  expect  in  our  progress  to  the  south-west,  made  it 
necessary  for  me  to  hire  another  bheestie,  to  draw  water  for  my- 
self and  my  horses.  All  these  difficulties  1 had  little  doubt  that 
I should  find  extremely  exaggerated ; but  I was  compelled,  in  my 
local  ignorance,  to  follow  the  opinions  of  those  who  had  local 
knowledge,  and  who  evidently  considered  my  journey  as  one  of 
an  arduous  nature. 

For  the  alarm  and  reluctance  expressed  by  the  natives  of  Hin- 
dostan  to  go  into  these  western  states,  many  good  reasons  may  be 
given.  But  a very  few  year§  have  passed  away  since  the  British 
Government  had  neither  influence  nor  authority  in  these  districts, 
which,  between  the  Maharattas,  the  Rajpoots,  the  Mewattees, 
and  the  Seiks,  were  in  a constant  state  of  intestine  war,  and  as 
dangerous  for  travellers  as  the  interior  of  Arabia  is  at  this  mo- 
ment. At  that  time  a person  wishing  to  go  into  these  provinces, 
could  not,  as  I am  assured,  have  obtained  bearers  for  less  than 
eight  or  ten  rupees  a month ; and  the  merchants  travelled  in 
caravans,  paying  high  rates  of  protection  to  every  little  plunder- 
ing Raja.  Now  the  Maharattas  are  subdued  and  driven  out  of 
the  country, — the  Mewattees  are  in  a great  measure  reclaimed, 
— the  Seiks  are  fully  employed  at  home,  and  the  Rajpoot  princes 
and  nobles  are  kept  in  awe  by  British  Residents  and  British 
garrisons.  It  still,  however,  is  spoken  of  as  a wild,  dreary,  and 
inhospitable  country,  where  provisions  and  water,  fruit  and  forage, 
are  scarce, — where  thieves  are  numerous,  and  regular  inhabitants 
few, — where  a servant  must  look  for  inconvenience  and  fatigue, 
and  where  he  can  expect  few  of  those  circumstances  of  amuse- 
ment or  gratification,  which,  in  Hindostan  proper,  make  many  of 
this  class  of  men  prefer  a rambling  to  a settled  and  stationary 
service.  1 was  told  to  expect  at  this  place  a great  desertion  of 
my  Bengalee  servants  also.  But  nothing  of  the  kind  has  occurred : 


480 


FUTTEHPOOR-SICRI. 


even  if  they  talk  with  some  dismay  of  accompanying  me  through 
the  desert  and  over  the  sea,  they  like  still  less  the  notion  of  find- 
ing their  own  way  back  to  Calcutta.  They  all  say  they  never 
heard  of  such  a journey  as  mine  before,  and  that  “ neither  moun- 
tains nor  any  thing  else  stand  in  my  way.”  This  is  all  absurd 
enough  at  the  present  moment ; but  the  recollection  of  where  1 
am,  and  the  circumstances  of  convenience  and  safety  under  which 
I have  traversed,  and  am  about,  if  it  please  God,  to  traverse 
regions  which  are  laid  down  as  a terra  incognita  in  Arrowsmith’s 
map  of  1816,  ought  to  make,  and  I hope  does  make,  a strong 
impression  on  my  mind,  of  thankfulness  to  that  Great  God,  whose 
providence  has  opened  to  the  British  nation  so  wide  and  so 
untried  a field  of  usefulness,^ — and  of  anxiety,  lest  we  should  any 
of  us,  in  our  station,  fall  short  of  those  duties  which  this  vast 
increase  of  power  and  dominion  imposes  on  us.  I and  often  ready 
to  break  into  lamentations  that,  where  so  much  is  to  do  in  my  own 
peculiar  profession,  the  means  at  my  disposal  enable  me  to  accom- 
plish so  little.  But  I ought  to  be  anxious,  far  more,  not  to  fall 
short  in  my  exertions  of  those  means  which  I have,  and  to  keep 
my  attention  steadily  fixed  on  professional  objects,  in  order  that, 
what  I cannot  do  myself,  1 may  at  Jeast  lead  others  to  think  of, 
and  perhaps  to  accomplish. 

The  thannadar  of  Kerowlee  is  a very  intelligent  old  soldier, 
with  certificates  of  good  conduct  from  all  the  officers  of  distinc- 
tion who  commanded  in  Lord  Lake’s  Maharatta  war,  and  able  to 
speak  of  most  of  the  events  which  occurred  in  it.  I was  sorry 
to  find  that  during  the  early  part  of  that  war,  some  of  the  British 
officers  disgraced  themselves  by  rapacity  and  extortion.  Such 
instances,  I believe  and  hope,  are  now  neither  of  frequent  nor 
easy  occurrence. 

January  18. — ^^We  went  on  this  morning  to  Futtehpoor-sicri, 
about  ten  miles,  through  a verdant  and  tolerably  well  cultivated 
country,  but  with  few  trees.  We  passed  Kerowlee,  a small  town, 
with  a ruined  rampart  and  towers,  seated  on  a low  gravelly  hill, 
with  a few  poor  attempts  at  gardens  round  it.  The  country  all 
seemed  to  have  benefited  greatly  by  the  late  rain,  which  is  still 
standing  in  pools  in  many  parts  of  the  road.  There  had,  indeed, 
been  more,  and  more  recent  rain  here  than  what  we  saw  in  Delhi. 
The  approach  to  Futtehpoor  is  striking;  it  is  surrounded  by  a 
high  stone  wall,  with  battlements  and  round  towers,  like  the 
remaining  part  of  the  city  walls  at  Oxford.  Within  this  is  a 
wide  extent  of  ruined  houses  and  mosques,  interspersed  with 
fields  cultivated  with  rice  and  mustard,  and  a few  tamarind  trees, 
and  nearly  in  the  middle,  on  a high  ridge  of  rocky  hills,  is  a range 
of  ruinous  palaces,  serais,  and  other  public  buildings,  in  the  best 
style  of  Mussulman  architecture ; and  to  form  the  centre  of  the 


MOSQUE. 


481 


picture,  a noble  mosque,  in  good  repair,  and  in  dimensions  equal, 
1 should  think,  to  the  Jumna  Musjeed  of  Delhi. 

This  town  was  the  favourite  residence  of  Acbar,  and  here,  in 
his  expeditions,  he  usually  left  his  wives  and  children,  under  the 
care  of  his  most  trusted  friend.  Sheikh  Soliman.  The  mosques, 
the  palace,  and  the  ramparts,  are  all  Acbar’s  work,  and  nearly 
in  the  same  style  with  the  castle  of  Agra  and  his  own  tomb  at 
Secundra.  The  two  former  are,  however,  plainer  than  this  last, 
and  there  is  a far  less  allowance  of  white  marble. 

We  found  our  tents  pitched  among  the  ruins  and  rubbish, 
about  a bow-shot  from  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  in  full  view  of  the 
great  gate  of  the  mosque,  which  is  approached  by  the  noblest 
flight  of  steps  1 ever  saw.  The  morning  was  still  cool,  and  we 
determined  to  see  the  curiosities  without  loss  of  time.  The  steps 
of  which  I have  spoken  lead  to  a fine  arch  surmounted  by  a lofty 
tower;  thence  we  pass  into  a quadrangle  of  about  500  feet  square, 
with  a very  lofty  and  majestic  cloister  all  round,  a large  mosque 
surmounted  by  three  fine  domes  of  white  marble  on  the  left  hand, 
and  opposite  to  the  entrance,  two  tombs  of  very  elaborate  work- 
manship, of  which  that  to  the  right  contains  several  monuments 
of  the  imperial  family;  that  to  the  left  a beautiful  chapel  of  white 
marble,  the  shrine  of  Sheikh  Soliman,  who  had  the  good  fortune 
to  be  a saint  a-s  well  as  a statesman. 

The  impression  which  this  whole  view  produced  on  me  will 
be  appreciated  when  I say,  that  there  is  no  quadrangle  either  in 
Oxford  or  Cambridge  fit  to  be  compared  to  it,  either  in  size,  or 
majestic  proportions,  or  beauty  of  architecture.  It  is  kept  in 
substantial  repair  by  the  British  Government,  and  its  grave  and 
solid  style  makes  this  an  easier  task  than  the  intricate  and  elabo- 
rate inlaid  work  of  Secundra  and  the  Taje  Mahal.  The  interior 
of  the  mosque  itself  is  fine,  and  in  the  same  simple  character  of 
grandeur,  but  the  height  of  the  portal  tower,  and  the  magnificence 
of  the  quadrangle,  had  raised  my  expectations  too  high,  and  I 
found  that  these  were  the  greatest,  as  well  as  the  most  striking 
beauties  of  Futtehpoor. 

A little  to  the  right  is  the  palace,  now  all  in  ruins,  except  a 
small  part  which  is  inhabited  by  the  Tusseldar  of  the  district. 
We  rambled  some  time  among  its  courts  and  through  a range  of 
stables  worthy  of  an  Emperor,  consisting  of  a long  and  wide  street, 
with  a portico  on  each  side  fifteen  feet  deep,  supported  with 
carved  stone  pillars  in  front,  and  roofed  with  enormous  slabs  of 
stone,  reaching  from  the  colonnade  to  the  wall.  There  are  four 
buildings  particularly  worthy  of  notice,  one  a small  but  richly 
ornamented  house,  which  is  shown  as  the  residence  of  Beerbal,  the 
Emperor’s  favourite  minister,  whom  the  Mussulmans  accuse  of 
having  infected  him  with  the  strange  religious  notions  with  which, 

VoL.  1. — G1 


482 


PALACE. 


in  the  latter  part  of  his  life,  he  sought  to  inoculate  his  subjects. 
Another  is  a very  beautiful  octagonal  pavilion  in  the  corner  of 
the  court,  which  appears  to  have  been  the  zennana,  and  was 
variously  stated  to  us  to  have  been  the  Emperor’s  private  study, 
or  the  bed-chamber  of  one  of  his  wives  who  was  a daughter  of 
the  Sultan  of  Constantinople.  It  has  three  large  windows  filled 
with  an  exquisite  tracery  of  white  marble,  and  all  its  remaining 
wall  is  carved  with  trees,  bunches  of  grapes,  and  the  figures  of 
different  kinds  of  birds  and  beasts,  of  considerable  merit  in  their 
execution,  but  the  two  last  disfigured  by  the  bigotry  of  Aurung- 
zebe,  who,  as  is  well  known,  sought  to  make  amends  for  his  own 
abominable  cruelty  and  wickedness  towards  his  father  and 
brothers,  by  a more  than  usual  zeal  for  the  traditions  and  ob- 
servances of  Islam.  The  third  is  a little  building  which,  if  its 
traditional  destination  be  correct,  I wonder  Aurungzebe  allowed 
to  stand.  It  consists  merely  of  a shrine  or  canopy  supported  by 
four  pillars,  which  the  Mussulman  ciceroni  of  the  place  pretend 
was  devoted  by  Acbar  to  the  performance  of  magical  rites. 
Whatever  its  use  may  have  been,  it  is  not  without  beauty.  The 
fourth  is  a singular  pavilion,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a pillar  or 
stone  pulpit  richly  carved,  approached  by  four  stone  galleries 
from  different  sides  of  the  room,  on  which  the  Emperor  used  to 
sit  on  certain  occasions  of  state,  while  his  subjects  were  admitted 
below  to  present  their  petitions.  It  is  a mere  capriccio,  with  no 
merit  except  its  carving,  but  is  remarkable  as  being  one  of  the 
most  singular  buildings  I have  seen,  and  commanding  from  its 
terraced  roof  a very  advantageous  view  of  the  greater  part  of  the 
city,  and  a wide  extent  of  surrounding  country. 

Of  this  last  much  appears  to  have  been  laid  out  in  an  exten- 
sive lake,  of  which  the  dam  is  still  to  be  traced,  and  the  whole 
hill  on  which  the  palace  stands  bears  marks  of  terraces  and  gar- 
dens, to  irrigate  which  an  elaborate  succession  of  wells,  cisterns, 
and  wheels,  appears  to  have  been  contrived  adjoining  the  great 
mosque,  and  forcing  up  the  water  nearly  to  the  height  of  its  roof. 
The  cisterns  are  still  useful  as  receptacles  for  rain-water,  but  the 
machinery  is  long  since  gone  to  decay.  On  the  whole,  Futteh- 
poor  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  places  which  1 have  seen  in 
India,  and  it  was  to  me  the  more  so,  because,  as  it  happened,  I 
had  heard  little  about  it,  and  was  by  no  means  prepared  to  expect 
buildings  of  so  much  magnitude  and  splendour. 

Mr.  Lushington  was  forced  to  leave  me  to  return  to  Lucknow, 
and  we  parted  with  mutual  hopes  that  we  might  often  meet  again, 
but  in  India  how  many  chances  are  there  against  such  hopes  being 
accomplished  ! If  his  health  is  spared  he  will,  I hope  and  believe, 
be  a valuable  man  in  this  country,  inasmuch  as  he  has  memory, 
application,  good  sense,  excellent  principles  both  religious  and 


MOSQUE. 


483 


moral ; and,  what  I have  seldom  seen  in  young  Indian  civilians,  a 
strong  desire  to  conciliate  the  minds  and  improve  the  condition 
of  the  inhabitants  of  the  country. 

After  dinner  I again  walked  to  the  mosque,  and  went  to  the 
top  of  the  gateway  tower,  which  commands  a very  extensive  view. 
The  most  remarkable  object  in  the  distance  was  the  rampart  of 
Bhurtpoor,  eight  coss  from  us,  and  hardly  to  be  distinguished  by 
the  naked  eye,  but  sufficiently  visible  with  a pocket  telescope. 
A number  of  miserable  dependants  on  the  religious  establishment 
came  up  and  begged  for  charity.  One  was  blind,  but  officiated 
as  porter  so  far  as  keeping  the  keys  of  the  tower  and  other  lock- 
up places.  Another  was  deaf  and  dumb,  and  filled  the  place  of 
sweeper  ; there  were  also  some  poor  old  women  who  “ abode,” 
as  they  told  me,  “ in  the  temple  gate,  and  made  prayer  night  and 
day.”  These  people,  as  well  as  the  two  principal  Muezzins  who 
had  been  my  ciceroni  through  the  day,  were  very  thankful  for 
the  trifles  I gave  them,  and  begged  me  in  return  “ to  eat  some  of 
the  bread  of  the  sanctuary,”  under  which  character  they  produc- 
ed a few  little  round  cakes  of  barley-meal  stuck  over  with  some- 
thing like  sugar.  On  leaving  the  building  1 was  surprised  to  hear 
a deep-toned  bell  pealing  from  its  interior,  but  on  asking  what  it 
was,  was  told  that  it  was  only  used  to  strike  the  hours  on.  Had 
1 not  asked  the  question,  1 might  have  been  tempted  to  suppose 
(with  the  ingenious  Master  Peter  in  Don  Quixote’s  celebrated 
puppet-show)  that  “ the  Moors  really  used  bells  in  their  churches 
as  well  as  Christians.”  As  it  was,  the  sound  had  a pleasing 
effect,  and  increased  the  collegiate  character  of  the  building. 

January  19. — We  rode  this  morning  ten  miles  through  a toler- 
ably cultivated  country,  but  strangely  overspread  with  ruins,  to 
a large  dilapidated  village  named  Khanwah.  In  our  way  we  had 
a heavy  shower  of  rain,  and  rain  continued  to  fall  at  intervals 
through  the  greater  part  of  the  day.  On  my  arrival  at  Khanwah, 
I found  that  this  place,  though  laid  down  in  Arrowsmith’s  map 
as  within  the  British  boundary,  was  in  truth  a part  of  the  terri- 
tory of  Bhurtpoor,  and  that  for  the  two  following  marches  1 
should  also  be  under  the  Raja’s  authority.  Ignorant  of  this  cir- 
cumstance myself,  I had  omitted  to  procure  a purwanu,  which 
might  have  been  obtained  in  a few  hours  from  his  vakeel  resident 
in  Agra,  and  without  which  none  of  his  officers  were  likely  to 
give  me  any  assistance  in  my  progress  through  his  country  ; the 
people  were  civil,  but  pleaded  that  they  had  received  no  notice 
or  instructions  concerning  my  arrival,  and  that,  without  orders, 
they  could  not  venture  to  levy  the  necessary  supplies  on  the 
peasants,  who,  on  the  other  hand,  were  not  willing  to  sell  the 
grass  and  fuel  which  they  had  collected  for  their  own  use,  unless 
they  were  called  on  to  do  so  in  a lawful  manner.  At  last,  after  a 


484 


MANNER  OF  MAKING  WELLS. 


good  part  of  the  morning  had  passed  away,  the  Zemindar  of  the 
place,  a venerable  old  man  like  a middling  farmer,  took  the  busi- 
ness on  himself  and  supplied  us  from  his  own  stores,  on  the 
assurance  not  only  of  payment,  but  of  a letter  of  recommenda- 
tion to  the  civility  and  kindness  of  any  English  who  might  pass 
that  way.  The  business  was  thus  settled  for  the  day,  but  in  order 
to  prevent  its  recurrence  the  next  morning,  1 sent  a letter  to  the 
Raja,  in  which  I explained  who  1 was,  and  requested  him  to  give 
the  needful  purwanu  to  the  bearer.  It  was  despatched  by  the 
most  intelligent  of  the  judge’s  people  to  the  court  ofBhurtpoor. 

Khanwah  is  at  the  foot  of  a remarkable  ridge  of  gray  granite, 
which  protrudes  itself,  like  the  spine  of  a huge  skeleton  half 
buried,  from  the  red  soil  and  red  rock  of  the  neighbourhood.  On 
its  top  is  a small  mosque,  and,  though  in  a Hindoo  country,  the 
great  majority  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  village  are  Mussulmans. 
As  1 passed  through  the  principal  street  in  my  evening’s  walk,  I 
saw  a very  young  man  naked  and  covered  with  chalk  and  ashes, 
his  hair  wreathed  with  withered  leaves  and  flowers,  working 
with  his  hands  and  a small  trowel  in  a hole  about  big  enough  to  hide 
him  if  he  stooped  down.  I asked  him  if  he  were  sinking  a well, 
but  a bystander  told  me  that  he  was  a Mussulman  faqueer  from 
the  celebrated  shrine  near  Agmere,  that  this  was  his  dwelling, 
and  that  he  used  to  make  a fire  at  the  bottom  and  cower  over  it. 
They  called  this  a Suttee,  but  explained  themselves  to  mean  that 
he  would  not  actually  kill,  but  only  roast  himself  by  way  of  pen- 
ance. I attempted,  as  far  as  I could,  to  reason  with  him,  but 
obtained  no  answer  except  a sort  of  faint  smile.  His  countenance 
was  pretty  strongly  marked  by  insanity.  1 gaVe  him  a few  pice, 
which  he  received  in  silence  and  laid  down  on  a stone,  then 
touched  his  forehead  respectfully  and  resumed  his  work,  scraping 
with  his  hands  like  a mole. 

The  houses  in  this  neighbourhood  are  all  of  red  sand-stone,  and 
several  of  them  are  supported  by  many  small  pillars  internally, 
and  roofed  with  large  stone  slabs  laid  from  one  pillar  to  the  other. 
Wood  is  very  scarce  and  dear.  There  v/ere  no  boughs  to  be  had 
for  the  elephants  and  camels,  to  which,  therefore,  it  was  necessary 
to  give  an  extra  supply  of  gram,  and  the  only  fuel  which  could 
be  found  for  our  camp  was  dried  cow-dung.  There  are,  how- 
ever, a few  scattered  trees  here  and  there,  one  belonging  to  a 
species  of  fir  which  1 had  never  before  seen ; and  on  the  road 
from  Futtehpoorwe  passed  a fine  mangoe-tree,  the  first  I had 
seen  since  leaving  Delhi,  except  in  the  gardens  of  Secundra  and 
the  Tage. 

The  wells  of  this  country,  some  of  which  are  very  deep,  are 
made  in  a singular  manner.  They  build  a tower  of  masonry  of 
the  diameter  required,  and  20  or  30  feet  high  from  the  surface  of 


ROAD  TO  PHARSAH. 


485 


the  ground;  This  they  allow  to  stand  a year  or  more  till  its 
masonry  is  rendered  firm  and  compact  by  time,  then  gradually 
undermine  and  promote  it^  sinking  into  the  sandy  soil,  which  it 
does  without  difficulty  and  all  together.  When  level  with  the 
surface  they  raise  its  wall  higher,  and  so  go  on,  throwing  out  the 
sand  and  raising  the  wall  till  they  have  reached  the  water.  If 
they  adopted  our  method,  the  soil  is  so  light  that  it  would  fall  in 
on  them  before  they  could  possibly  raise  the  wall  from  the  bot- 
tom, nor  without  the  wall  could  they  sink  to  any  considerable 
depth.  I forgot  to  mention  that  the  day  before  we  left  Agra,  the 
poor  camel-driver  whom  I had  left  in  a jungle-fever  at  Morada- 
bad,  arrived  safely  and  in  restored  health  to  join  me.  He  had 
been  very  ill,  and  spoke  with  extreme  gratitude  of  the  kindness 
shown  him  by  the  staff-surgeon,  Mr.  Bell,  who  had,  he  said,  taken 
great  care  of  him,  and  had  now  procured  him  from  the  commis- 
sariat an  advance  of  part  of  his  pay,  and  a camel  to  ride  on  for 
his  journey  from  Moradabad  hither.  It  was  pleasing  to  see  the 
joy  with  which  this  lad  was  received  by  his  comrades,  who  had 
given  him  up  for  lost.  I wrote  to  Mr.  Bell  to  thank  him. 

January  20. — Before  day-break  this  morning,  1 was  told  that  a 
vakeel  from  the  Raja  of  Bhurtpoor  had  arrived  with  a letter  and 
present  of  fruit  from  his  master.  The  messenger  announced  him- 
self as  treasurer  to  the  Raja.  He  was  a very  tall  and  fine  looking- 
old  man,  handsomely  dressed,  but  with  a small  train  of  attend- 
ants. He  expressed  the  Raja’s  regret  that  I did  not  intend  to  visit 
Bhurtpoor,  and  the  pleasure  which  he  had  promised  himself  in 
showing  me  some  good  hunting.  The  letter  was  enclosed  in  a 
silk  bag,  and  sealed  with  a broad  seal  like  that  of  an  University 
diploma.  The  vakeel  said  that  he  had  orders  to  attend  me  in  my 
remaining  progress  through  the  Bhurtpoor  territories  to  procure 
supplies,  but  seemed  surprised  on  finding  that  1 meant  to  proceed 
to  Pharsah  that  day.  He  said,  however,  that  he  would  follow 
me  as  soon  as  his  cattle  could  travel,  and  of  course  I did  not 
wish  to  hurry  him,  particularly  since  the  suwarr  had  gone  on 
directly  from  Bhurtpoor  to  the  encamping  ground  with  all  neces- 
sary powers.  The  vakeel  had  travelled,  not  on  horseback,  but 
in  a covered  carriage  drawn  by  oxen. 

From  Khanwah  to  Pharsah  is  reckoned  seven  coss.  The  coss 
in  this  neighbourhood  are  long,  and  the  distance,  so  far  as  I could 
judge,  is  above  fourteen  miles.  The  country,  though  still  bare 
of  wood,  has  more  scattered  trees  than  we  had  seen  for  many 
days  back,  and  notwithstanding  that  the  soil  is  sandy  and  only 
irrigated  from  wells,  it  is  one  of  the  best  cultivated  and  watered 
tracts  which  I have  seen  in  India.  The  crops  of  corn  now  on 
the  ground  were  really  beautiful,  that  of  cotton,  though  gone  by, 
showed  marks  of  having  been  a very  good  one  ; what  is  a sure  proof 


486 


GOVERNMENT  OF  BHURTPOOR. 


of  wealth,  1 saw  several  sugar-mills  and  large  pieces  of  ground 
whence  the  cane  had  just  been  cleared  ; and  contrary  to  the  usual 
habits  of  India,  where  the  cultivators  k*eep  as  far  as  they  can  from 
the  high-way,  to  avoid  the  various  molestations  to  which  they  are 
exposed  from  thieves  and  travellers,  there  was  often  only  a nar- 
row path-way  winding  through  the  green  wheat  and  mustard  crop, 
and  even  this  was  crossed  continually  by  the  channels  which  con- 
veyed water  to  the  furrows.  The  population  did  not  seem  great, 
but  the  few  villages  which  we  saw  were  apparently  in  good  con- 
dition and  repair ; and  the  whole  afforded  so  pleasing  a picture  of 
industry,  and  was  so  much  superior  to  any  thing  which  I had 
been  led  to  expect  in  Rajpootana,  or  which  I had  seen  in  the 
Company’s  territories  since  leaving  the  southern  parts  of  Rohil- 
cund,  that  I was  led  to  suppose,  that  either  the  Raja  of  Bhurtpoor 
was  an  extremely  exemplary  and  parental  governor,  or  that  the 
system  of  management  adopted  in  the  British  provinces  was  in 
some  way  or  other  less  favourable  to  the  improvement  and  hap- 
piness of  the  country  than  that  of  some  of  the  native  states. 

What  the  old  jemautdar  of  Khanwah  said  as  to  the  rent  he  paid 
to  Government,  and  the  answers  which  he  made  to  some  ques- 
tions put  to  him,  were  not,  however,  such  as  would  lead  one  to 
expect  an  industrious  or  prosperous  peasantry.  No  certain  rent 
is  fixed  by  Government,  but  the  state  takes  every  year  what  it 
thinks  fit,  leaving  only  what,  in  its  discretion,  it  regards  as  a suf- 
ficient maintenance  for  the  Zemindars  and  Ryuts.  This  is  pretty 
nearly  the  system  which  has  produced  such  ruinous  effects  in 
Oude,  but  which  is  of  course  tempered  in  these  smaller  states  by 
the  facility  of  bringing  complaints  to  the  ear  of  the  Sovereign,  by 
the  want  of  power  in  the  Sovereign  himself  to  withstand  any 
general  rising  to  which  his  tyranny  might  in  the  long  run  drive 
his  subjects,  and  most  of  all,  by  the  immediate  and  perceptible 
loss  of  income  which  he  would  sustain,  if  by  dealing  too  hard  with 
any  particular  village,  he  made  its  inhabitants  emigrate  to  the 
territories  of  his  neighbour.  Nor  must  the  old  hereditary  attach- 
ment be  lost  sight  of,  which  makes  the  rulers  or  subjects  of  a Jat 
or  Rajpoot  state  regard  each  other  as  kindred,  and  feel  a pride, 
the  one  in  the  power  and  splendour  of  a chief  who  is  the  head  of 
his  clan,  the  other  in  the  numbers  and  prosperity  of  those  who 
constitute  his  society  and  court  in  time  of  peace,  and  in  war  his 
only  army. 

The  contingent  which  Bhurtpoor  is  bound  to  bring  to  the  aid 
of  the  British  Government  in  case  of  war  on  this  frontier,  is  700 
horse ; but  on  necessity  the  Raja  might,  I should  conceive,  raise 
many  more,  since  the  much  smaller  state  of  Bullumghur  rated  its 
means  at  500  cavalry,  and  1500  infantry.  The  standing  army  of 
Bhurtpoor,  however,  probably  falls  short  of  300  men.  No  more. 


SIR  DAVID  OCHTERLONY. 


487 


indeed,  are  necessary,  than  will  suffice  for  the  purposes  of  sta.te 
and  to  keep  down  robbers,  and  the  Raja  may  be  supposed  to  lay 
by  a considerable  surplus  revenue. 

The  present  Raja  is  said  to  be  a young  man  of  very  pleasing 
manners  and  address.  During  the  Pindarree  war  he  came  in  per- 
son to  Lord  Hastings’  camp  with  his  contingent,  but  expressed 
considerable  uneasiness  as  to  the  light  in  which  he  might  possibly 
be  regarded  by  the  British  Government,  and  how  far  his  father’s 
gallant  and  successful  defence  of  Bhurtpoor  might  be  remembered 
to  his  disadvantage.  He  was  much  tranquillized  on  being  told 
that  his  tribe  and  himself  were  only  the.  more  respected  and  con- 
fided in  by  their  present  allies,  for  the  bravery  and  fidelity  which 
they  had  shown  to  their  former  Maharatta  Suzerains,  and  the  per- 
fect system  of  non-interference,  which  has  been  since  pursued 
towards  him,  is  said  to  have  gone  far  to  remove  whatever  jealousy 
might  still  be  lurking  in  his  mind.  At  present  there  seems  no 
doubt  that  all  the  smaller  princes  of  this  part  of  India  have  been 
great  gainers  by  the  rise  of  the  British  power  on  the  ruins  of  that 
of  Sindia  and  Holkar.  They  have  all  of  them  peace  and  tran- 
quillity, which  for  many  years  they  had  never  enjoyed  for  three 
months  together.  Many  have  had  additional  territory  given 
them,  and  all  have  their  revenues  in  a more  flourishing  state  than 
they  had  been  in  the  memory  of  man.  The  organization,  there- 
fore, of  this  new  confederacy,  if  it  may  be  called  so,  may  seem  to 
be  the  most  brilliant  and  successful  measure  of  Lord  Hastings’ 
administration,  and  one  from  which,  as  yet,  almost  unmingled 
good  has  flowed  to  the  people  and  nobles  of  Western  and  Central 
Hindostan.  I confess  I am  tempted  to  wish  that  more  of  the 
country  over  which  our  influence  extends  were  divided  into  simi- 
lar fiefs  and  petty  feudal  lordships. 

Sir  David  Ochterlony,  who,  as  agent  to  the  Governor-general, 
is  the  common  arbitrator  and  referree  in  the  disputes  of  these  lit- 
tle sovereigns,  is  said  to  maintain  an  almost  kingly  state.  His 
income  from  different  sources  is  little  less  than  15,000  s.  rup. 
monthly,  and  he  spends  it  almost  all.  Dr.  Smith,  in  his  late 
march  from  Mhow  to  Meerut,  passed  by  Sir  David’s  camp.  The 
“ burra  sahib,”  or  great  man,  was  merely  travelling  with  his  own 
family  and  personal  followers  from  Delhi  to  Jyepoor,  but  his 
retinue,  including  servants,  escort,  European  and  native  aides-de- 
camp,  and  the  various  non-descripts  of  an  Asiatic  train,  together 
with  the  apparatus  of  horses,  elephants,  and  camels, — the  num- 
ber of  his  tents,  and  the  size  of  the  enclosure  hung  round  with  red 
cloth,  by  which  his  own  and  his  daughter’s  private  tents  were 
fenced  in  from  the  eyes  of  the  profane,  were  what  an  European, 
or  even  an  old  Indian,  whose  experience  had  been  confined  to 
Bengal,  would  scarcely  be  brought  to  credit.  All  this  is  at  least 


488 


PHARSAH. 


harmless,  and  so  far  as  it  suits  the  habits  and  ideas  of  the  natives 
themselves,  it  may  have  a good  effect  But  in  Agra  and  Delhi, 
though  Sir  David  is  uniformly  spoken  of  as  a kind,  honourable, 
and  worthy  man,  I was  shocked  to  find  that  the  venality  and  cor- 
ruption of  the  people  by  whom  he  is  surrounded,  was  a matter  of 
exceeding  scandal.  Against  one  of  his  moonshees  it  appears  he 
had  been  frequently  warned  without  effect,  till  at  length,  in  the 
course  of  a casual  conversation  with  the  Emperor’s  treasurer,  Sir 
David  found  to  his  astonishment,  that  his  own  name  stood  as  a 
pensioner  on  the  poor  old  sovereign’s  civil  list  to  the  amount  of 
1000  rupees  monthly ! The  moonshee  had  demanded  it  in  his  mas- 
ter’s name;  to  refuse  was  out  of  the  question,  and  delicacy  had 
prevented  the  Emperor  from  naming  the  subject  to  the  person 
whom,  as  he  supposed,  he  was  laying  under  an  obligation!  So 
careful  ought  public  men  in  India  to  be  that  their  servants  do  not 
abuse  their  authority.  But,  how  great  must  be  the  difficulties 
attendant  on  power  in  these  provinces,  when,  except  Sir  John 
Malcolm,  I have  heard  of  no  one  whom  all  parties  agree  in  com- 
mending. His  talents,  his  accessibility,  his  firmness,  his  conciliating 
manners,  and  admirable  knowledge  of  the  native  language  and 
character,  are  spoken  of  in  the  same  terms  by  all. 

The  village  of  Pharsah  stands  on  the  side  of  a small  hill  of  sand- 
stone, below  which  winds  what  is  now  a dry  expanse  of  sand,  but 
in  the  rainy  season  is  said  to  be  a considerable  nuddee.  The  vil- 
lage contains  a fortified  house  of  the  Raja’s,  now  empty  and  ruin- 
ous, but  built  in  by  no  means  a bad  taste,  and  having  its  surrounding 
court  ornamented  with  a range  of  handsome  stone  cloisters,  lining 
the  inside  of  the  mud  rampart. 

In  the  evening  we  walked  into  the  neighbouring  fields,  the 
greater  part  of  which  were  covered  with  beautiful  crops  of  green 
wheat.  The  soil  is,  however,  mere  sand,  but  under  the  sun  of 
India  even  sand  becomes  fertile  by  irrigation.  So  sensible  are 
the  people  of  this  truth,  that,  notwithstanding  the  recent  rains, 
we  found  them  every  where  busy  with  their  bullocks  at  the 
wheels  of  their  wells,  raising  water  to  the  “ gools,”  (small  chan- 
nels) which  convey  its  rills  to  their  fields.  The  work  is  toilsome, 
and  must  be  expensive,  but  both  labour  and  expense  are  amply 
repaid  by  such  crops  as  their  fields  now  promise.  I observed 
that  the  men  who  were  filling  the  gools  had  their  spears  stuck  in 
the  ground  close  to  them.  I asked  if  this  were  a necessary  pre- 
caution, and  was  told  that  ‘‘  now  the  times  were  so  peaceable 
there  was  no  fear,  but  that  the  dustoor  had  begun  in  time  of 
trouble,  and  it  was  well  to  keep  it  up  lest  trouble  should  come 
again.”  Travellers,  as  a matter  of  course,  are  all  armed,  but  the 
peasantry  in  general  do  not  wear  so  warlike  an  aspect  as  those 
of  Oude.  1 had  heard  a different  account  of  them,  but  ten  years 


MARRIAGE  PROCESSION.  489 

peace  are  already  enough  to  have  produced  a considerable  elfect 
on  their  habits  and  feelings. 

1 saw  a great  number  of  the  pea-fowl  and  of  the  beautiful 
greenish  pigeon  common  in  this  country.  Both  the  one  and  the 
other  were  as  tame  as  the  tamest  barn-door  fowl,  and  scarcely 
troubled  themselves  to  get  out  of  the  way.  Dr.  Smith  observed 
that  he  had  never  seen  a peacock  with  its  train  displayed.  This, 
if  generally  true,  is  a curious  fact,  for  their  feathers  and  their 
habits  in  other  respects  resemble  exactly  those  of  Europe.  They 
are  a great  ornament  to  the  country. 

The  Jat  women  are,  I think,  rather  taller  and  more  robust 
than  those  of  Hindostan  ; they  are  all  dressed  in  red  shawl-like 
mantles,  which  have  a better  appearance  than  the  dirty  and 
coarse  cotton  cloth  which  the  Hindoostanee  and  Bengalee  females 
wrap  round  them.  We  were  now  completely  out  of  the  regular 
DMc,  but  the  Raja’s  vakeel  undertook  to  forward  some  letters  for 
me  to  Agra,  which  city  he  called  Acbar-abad. 

January  21. — From  Pharsah  to  Wuerh  is  five  long  coss,  during 
which  we  gradually  approached  one  of  the  chains  of  low  hills  1 
have  mentioned ; they  are  very  naked  and  sandy.  The  plain 
was  not  so  well  cultivated  as  that  over  which  we  had  passed  the 
day  before,  and  seemed  to  have  suffered  from  drought.  We  saw 
two  large  spaces  enclosed  with  mounds  of  earth,  with  good  stone 
sluices,  which  appeared  to  have  been  tanks,  but  were  now  quite 
dry,  and  partially  cultivated  within  with  wheat  and  cotton.  A 
large  herd  of  deer  were  grazing  on  the  plain;  they  were  per- 
fectly tame,  and  allowed  us  to  ride  up  near  enough  to  examine 
them  with  ease.  One  of  the  males  was  very  beautiful  and  of  a 
singular  colour,  pie-bald  black  and  white,  like  what  are  called 
in  England  blanket  cows.  The  others  were  dappled  red,  with 
white  bellies  as  usual. 

We  overtook  a body  of  people  going  to  a marriage,  with  a 
couple  of  large  banners,  two  kettle-drums  on  a camel,  several 
horns  and  other  musical  instruments,  and  two  or  three  hackeries 
full  of  men  with  pink  turbans  and  holiday  faces.  Our  falling  in 
with  them  was  lucky,  since  we  had  lost  our  way,  and  none  of 
our  horsemen  could  give  any  guess  at  the  situation  of  Wuerh. 
About  a mile  further,  however,  an  extensive  line  of  groves  came 
into  view,  and  showed  that  we  w^ere  approaching  a place  of 
some  consequence,  while  the  care  with  which  every  foot  of 
ground  was  enclosed  and  improved,  spoke  well  for  the  industry 
of  its  inhabitants.  We  found  it  a large  town,  surrounded  by  a 
high  mud  rampart,  at  the  gate  of  which  w^e  were  stopped  by  a 
decent-looking  elderly  man,  who  salamed  to  me,  and  said  that  I 
should  find  my  tents  by  following  a path  which  he  pointed  out 
among  the  orchards  and  gardens  outside  the  wall.  The  truth, 

VoL.  I.— 62 


490 


WUERH. 


however,  appeared  to  be  that  he  did  not  like  us  to  enter  his  fortress, 
for  it  was  not  till  we  had  nearly  gone  half  round  the  town,  that 
we  found  the  tents  pitched  in  a fine  tope  at  a short  distance  from 
a gate  directly  opposite  to  that  which  he  had  preveu^ed  us  from 
entering.  If  he  feared  to  put  us  in  possession  of  the  plan  of  his 
castle,  he  could  not,  as  it  happened,  have  taken  a better  way  to 
enable  us  to  gain  all  the  military  knowledge  which  was  necessary, 
since  our  path  wound  close  under  the  wall,  and  we  saw  all  its 
principal  flanks  and  lines  of  defence.  The  wall  is  of  earth, 
high  and  steep,  well  flanked  by  semi-circular  bastions,  with  a 
wide  but  shallow  ditch  filled  up  in  several  places,  and  without  a 
glacis.  If  well  defended,  it  would  scarcely  yield  to  a coup  de 
main,  but  might  be  breached,  1 should  think,  in  a few  hours. 
There  were  loop-holes  for  musketry  in  the  parapets  of  the 
bastions,  but  I saw  no  cannon.  The  rampart  was  in  many  places 
much  decayed;  but  bore  evident  marks  of  having  recently  receiv- 
ed considerable  repairs, — a measure  which  may  have  been  sug- 
gested either  by  the  disastrous  reports  with  regard  to  the  British 
arms  in  the  east,  which  had  been  so  industriously  circulated,  or 
still  more  likely,  by  the  quarrel  between  the  Rannee  of  Jyepoor 
and  the  British  Resident,  and  the  retreat  of  the  latter  from  the 
city.  It  is  not  necessary  to  suppose,  as  some  of  the  Europeans 
in  Agra  do,  that  if  our  Government  had  really  tottered,  the  Raja 
of  Bhurtpoor  would  have  rejoiced  in  an  opportunity  of  helping 
it  down  the  hill.  However  well  he  may  wish  us,  (and  he  has 
been,  certainly,  a gainer  by  our  predominance,)  in  a time  of 
universal  war  and  trouble,  such  as  would  probably  follow  our 
evacuation  of  this  part  of  the  country,  it  would  be  highly  de- 
sirable that  his  castles  should  be  found  in  a state  of  good  repair. 
And  this  is  a suflicient  motive  for  the  repairs  which  I saw  at 
Wuerh. 

The  grove  where  the  tents  were  pitched  was  so  close  and 
shady,  that  it  would  have  been  delightful  during  the  warmer 
months  ; as  it  was,  I should  have  preferred  the  plain,  for  it  was 
so  dark  in  my  tent  that  1 could  hardly  see  to  write.  There  was, 
however,  no  choice  of  situation,  since  the  plain  for  a considerable 
distance  round  the  town  was  so  highly  cultivated  and  so  much 
enclosed,  that  no  room  could  have  been  found  for  our  cofilab. 

As  we  wound  round  the  rampart  to  reach  the  camp,  we  passed 
a number  of  huts  occupied  by  the  “ chumars”  (leather  dressers) 
and  other  Hindoos  of  low  caste,  who  follow  professions  regarded 
as  unclean  by  the  majority  of  their  countrymen,  and  are  therefore 
not  admitted  into  any  of  their  towns.  Leprous  persons  lie  under 
the  same  exclusion,  and  many  gipsies  are  usually  found  among 
this  mingled  and  refuse  population,  which  is  generally  as  immoral 
as  it  is  degraded  and  unfortunate.  The  suburbs  of  the  ancient 


WUERH. 


491 


cities  of  the  Jews  seem  to  have  been  almost  similarly  inhabited, 
and  I was  forcfbly  struck  to-day  (as  I rode  through  the  huts  of 
which  1 have  spoken,  and  saw  the  filthy  swine,  the  dogs  gnawing 
the  carcasses  of  different  animals,  and  the  flaunting  dress  and 
unequivocal  air  of  the  miserable,  ragged,  and  dirty  females)  with 
that  passage  in  the  Revelations  which,  though  figuratively  applied 
to  the  pure  discipline  of  the  Christian  church  in  its  state  of  glory, 
is  obviously  taken  from  the  police  of  a well-regulated  earthly  city 
in  that  age  and  country.  “ There  shall  in  no  wise  enter  into  it 
any  thing  that  defileth.”  “ For  without  are  dogs,  and  sorcerers, 
and  whoremongers,  and  murderers,  and  idolaters,  and  whosoever 
loveth  and  maketh  a lie.” 

I had  been  much  plagued  ever  since  I left  Meerut  and  Delhi 
by  different  persons,  who,  under  the  name  of  “ Expectants,”  or 
“ Candidates,”  had  attached  themselves  to  the  camp,  and  solicited 
me,  day  after  day,  either  to  take  them  into  my  service,  or,  which 
was  still  more  impossible,  to  recommend  them  to  the  service  of 
some  other  person.  This  practice  arises,  no  doubt,  out  of  the 
vast  and  overflowing  population  of  India,  abounding,  as  it  does, 
beyond  its  due  proportion,  in  persons  of  a certain  degree  of 
education,  who  are  unable  or  indisposed  to  earn  their  bread  by 
manual  labour,  and  who,  therefore,  have  no  resource  but  as  the 
servants  of  great  men,  or  moonshees  in  some  government  office. 
The  number  of  these  petitioners  is  an  exceeding  plague  to  all 
public  men  in  the  north  of  India,  where  they  often  attach  them- 
selves to  the  door  of  a cutcherry  for  weeks  and  months  together. 
Several  of  this  description  followed  me  from  Meerdt  to  Delhi, 
including  among  them  a fine  showy  fellow,  a captain  of  irregular 
horse,  who  would  not  believe  that  I did  not  mean  to  levy  a body- 
guard to  attend  me  across  the  wilderness  to  Bombay.  I was  able, 
as  it  happened,  to  do  this  poor  man,  who  was  well  recommended, 
a good  turn,  which,  though  it  freed  me  from  his  company,  had 
rather  the  effect  of  attracting  others,  who  followed  me  on  foot  and 
in  misery,  and  who  seemed  to  think  that  by  wearing  out  their 
shoes  and  spending  all  their  little  money  in  my  train,  though 
without  any  invitation  and  against  my  repeated  warnings,  they 
established  some  claim  on  me  to  provide  for  them.  At  the  fron- 
tier, all  dropt  off  except  one,  a candidate  for  a moonshee’s  place, 
the  gradual  deterioration  of  whose  outward  man  had  been  for 
some  time  back  lamentable  enough.  When  he  first  preferred  his 
suit  at  Meerut  he  was  decently  dressed,  had  a good  pony,  and 
had  himself  that  appearance  of  sleekness  and  good  keep,  which, 
in  the  opinion  of  a native  of  this  country,  is  almost  synonymous 
with  respectability.  Fie  and  his  horse  were  now  lean,  his  clothes 
were  becoming  daily  dirtier  and  more  threadbare,  and  a silver- 


492 


WUERH. 


hilted  sword  was  the  only  remaining  memento  of  the  fact  that  he 
pretended  to  the  character  of  a gentleman  and  man  of  letters.  I 
asked  him  this  morning  “ how  long  he  intended  to  travel  the  same 
way  with  me,”  to  which  he  replied,  that  “ he  was  my  devoted 
servant,  that  he  had  thrown  himself  on  my  pity,  and  relying  on 
that  had  spent  every  farthing  he  possessed,  and  might  as  well  gO 
on  with  me  till  he  dropt,  as  die  of  hunger  in  the  attempt  to  return 
to  his  wife  and  children  at  Meerut.  If,  indeed,  1 would  but  give 
him  a letter” — 1 told  him  “ that  I could  not  do,”  but  offered  him 
a few  rupees  to  get  him  out  of  the  difficulty  to  which  his  own 
folly  had  conducted  him.  He  seemed  grateful  for  the  money, 
but  still  continued  so  importunate  either  for  employment  or  a 
recommendation,  to  which  he  would  not  perceive  that  my  igno- 
rance of  his  character  was  any  bar,  that  I was  at  length  obliged 
to  have  him  turned  out  of  my  tent  by  “ the  strong  hand.”  Surely 
this  is  a sort  of  mendicant  of  which  we  have  no  experience  in 
England ! 

In  my  evening’s  walk  the  old  vakeel  came  out  to  meet  me,  and 
inquired  which  way  I chose  to  go.  I asked  if  any  thing  was  to 
be  seen  in  the  city,  to  which  he  answered  with  more  readiness 
than  his  previous  conduct  had  led  me  to  expect,  “ that  there  were 
things  worth  seeing.”  We  set  out,  therefore,  towards  the  gate, 
over  some  very  solid  and  well-executed  works  of  stone  for  carry- 
ing water  to  irrigate  the  neighbouring  gardens.  I remarked  to 
the  vakeel  the  extent  and  apparent  expense  of  these  canals,  and 
he  told  me  that  they  had  been  made  at  the  expense  of  the  Maha- 
raja’s father.  We  entered  the  city  by  a solidly  built  arch  of  stone, 
with  a strong  timber  iron-clenched  door,  secured  externally  by  a 
rude  earthen  ravelin  or  barbican,  and  approached  by  a narrow 
stone  bridge.  The  guards  at  the  gate  were  not  above  ten  or 
twelve,  pretty  nearly  such  peasants  as  I had  seen  in  the  fortress 
in  Oude,  with  the  exception  of  one  sentry,  who  had  on  an  old 
sepoy’s  red  jacket,  got  up,  as  I suspect,  for  the  purpose  of  this 
visit.  They  received  us  not  with  the  Mussulman  salutation  of 
“ Salam  Alicum,”  but  with  the  Hindoo  “ Ram,  Ram!”  a greeting 
which  I had  never  before  heard  except  from  the  brahmins  in 
Benares,  and  from  the  lowest  ranks  in  some  other  parts  of  India. 
Here,  however,  we  were  in  a Jat  country,  and  the  Arabic  salu- 
tation would  be  unnatural.  Within  the  gate,  nothing  was  at  first 
visible  but  a narrow  bazar  with  its  usual  accompaniments  of  mud 
huts,  heaps  of  grocery,  fat  bunyans,  scolding  women,  brahminy 
bulls,  and  all  uncleanness.  But  the  Raja’s  chobdar  led  the  way 
to  what  the  vakeel  told  us  beforehand  was  a fine  flower  garden, 
and  which  certainly  far  exceeded  my  expectation.  Through  a 
narrow  gate  we  passed  into  a small  court-yard,  with  a very  hand- 


WUERH. 


493 


some  Hindoo  house,  of  stone  coated  with  marble  chunam,  in  front 
of  it,  and  were  then  led  into  an  extremely  pretty  though  not  large 
garden,  watered  by  stone  channels,  conducted  from  a large  chunam 
tank  with  several  fountains  round  it.  Some  of  the  trees  were  of 
great  size  and  beauty,  and  the  whole  place,  though  evidently 
uninhabited,  was  kept  in  substantial  repair,  and  not  the  less 
beautiful  in  my  eyes  because  the  orange  trees  had  somewhat 
broken  their  bounds,  the  shade  of  the  flowering  plants  assumed 
a ranker  luxuriance,  and  the  scarlet  blossoms  of  the  pomegranate 
trailed  more  wildly  across  our  path,  than  was  consistent  with  the 
rules  of  exact  gardening.  At  the  further  end  of  the  garden,  we 
found  ourselves  on  the  edge  of  a broad  moat,  with  some  little 
water  still  in  it,  surrounding  an  old  stone-built  castle,  with  round 
towers  and  high  ramparts  of  stone.  From  the  side  of  the  town 
which  we  approached  in  the  morning,  it  had  been  only  partially 
visible,  nor  did  I then  suspect  the  existence  of  any  thing  of  the 
kind,  though  I now  recognised  one  of  the  higher  turrets  as  having, 
on  my  approach  to  the  gates,  caught  my  eye  over  the  mud  w^alls ; 
the  water  was  low,  and  this  part  of  the  scene  had  a dull  and  me- 
lancholy character.  We  repassed,  through  a small  but  elegantly 
carved  gateway,  into  the  city,  where  we  first  saw  two  high  arches, 
carved  with  gods  and  goddesses,  erected,  we  were  told,  in  order 
to  hang  swings  on.  A small  college  was  then  shown  us  of  reli- 
gious mendicants,  or  “ Viragies,”  and  this  concluded  the  list  of 
rarities  in  Wuerh,  with  which  I had  been  greatly  interested,  the 
more  so,  probably,  because  I had  been  in  no  degree  prepared  for 
them,  Wuerh  being  at  a distance  from  any  great  road,  and  its 
existence  very  little  known.  It  is  only  lately,  indeed,  that  this 
country  has  been  at  all  visited  by,  or  accessible  to,  Europeans, 
and  Deeg,  whose  palace  and  gardens  are  compared  to  the  finest 
things  of  the  kind  in  Agra,  though  only  two  marches  from  Muttra, 
is  in  like  manner  quite  a new  discovery.  Zealous  Hindoos  as 
the  J ats  are,  they  seem  to  agree  very  well  with  the  Mussulmans. 
Many  of  this  latter  sect  live  in  Wuerh,  and  their  priest,  an  infirm 
old  man,  a descendant,  as  he  said,  of  Mahomet,  came  to  pay  his 
compliments  to  me  and  to  offer  the  usual  salutation  of  holy  bread 
and  sweetmeats. 

The  Raja’s  chobdar  desired  and  received  his  dismissal  here, 
but  the  vakeel  said  he  had  orders  to  see  me  across  the  frontier  at 
Peshawer.  The  chobdar  had  a handkerchief  of  printed  cotton 
round  his  neck  which  was  obviously  of  English  manufacture.  1 
notice  this  because  I had  remarked  few  symptoms  of  our  com- 
merce having  penetrated  thus  far  for  some  time  before,  nor  in  so 
remote  and  secluded  a district  should  I have  expected  it.  1 re- 
turned an  answer  by  the  chobdar  to  the  Raja’s  letter,  enclosed 


494  PESHAWER—MOWAH, 

in  due  form  in  a Kincob*  bag  with  gold  strings,  and  with  as  large 
a seal  as  my  Episcopal  arms  could  supply. 

January  22.— From  Wuerh  to  Mowah  is  about  sixteen  miles. 
Nearly  half-way  is  a large  village,  or  small  town,  named  Peshawer, 
very  prettily  situated  on  the  side  of  a little  rocky  eminence,  with 
a ruinous  palace  on  its  summit,  and  surrounded  by  trees  partly 
planted  in  regular  troops,  partly  scattered,  as  in  England,  over  a 
considerable  extent  of  arable  and  pasture  land.  There  were  some 
large  herds  of  deer  seen  under  the  most  distant  shades,  the  fruit- 
trees  near  the  village  swarmed  with  peacocks,  and  the  little  rocky 
hills,  through  the  soft  fleecy  mist  of  the  morning,  assumed  a con- 
sequence which  did  not  really  belong  to  them.  Peshawer,  as  a 
frontier  town  of  this  little  monarchy,  was  guarded  by  a small 
body  of  suwarrs,  whose  horses  were  picqueted  under  some  trees 
in  its  market  place,  and  the  men  were  lounging  up  and  down  in 
the  usual  picturesque  groups  which  soldiers  generally  form  when 
off  duty.  They  were  tall,  bony  men,  in  short  jackets  of  French 
gray,  but  sufficiently  slovenly  and  irregular  in  their  appearance. 
Their  long  spears,  which  were  ranged  before  their  little  guard- 
house, w^ere  the  most  military  part  of  the  show.  There  appeared 
to  be  also  a custom-house,  for  a good  many  wagons  loaded  with 
cotton  were  drawn  up  in  the  street  as  if  to  pay  toll.  The  duties 
exacted  from  foreign  commerce  by  these  petty  states  are,  as 
might  be  expected,  exceedingly  high ; and  being  farmed  out  to 
persons  who  are  under  no  sufficient  control,  the  burden  oil  the 
merchant  is  such  as,  in  many  places,  to  have  put  an  entire  stop 
to  trade,  and  to  all  travelling,  except  of  such  persons  as  are  either 
exempt  from  duty,  or  have  nothing  of  which  they  can  be  plun- 
dered. A few,  and  only  a few  of  the  native  princes  have,  at 
different  times,  perceived  their  own  interest  in  this  respect. 
Whether  Bhurtpoor  belongs  to  the  number  I do  not  know,  but 
a considerable  trade  appeared,  from  all  which  we  saw  at  Pe- 
shawer, to  pass  through  it.  From  Peshawer  to  Mowah  the 
country  was  not  so  w^ll  cultivated,  though  still  very  tolerably  so, 
and  there  were  many  plain  indications  that  abundant  rain  had 
recently  fallen. 

Mowah,  the  frontier  village  of  Jyepoor,  has  a large  mud  for- 
tress with  six  bastions ; and  on  the  hill  at  about  two  miles  distance 
was  another,  and,  apparently,  a more  considerable  castle.  We 
were  now,  indeed,  in  a country  where,  till  very  lately,  a fort  was 
as  necessary  to  the  husbandman  as  a barn  in  England.  The 
incursions  of  the  Pindarrees,  it  is  true,  did  not  often  extend  quite 
so  far  as  we  now  were,  but  they  were  not  unknown,  and  the 

A sort  of  g’old  brocade,  very  rich,  and  worn  only  by  natives  of  high  rank. — Ed. 


MOWAH, 


495 


army  of  Ameer  Khan,  as  rapacious,  as  bloody,  as  perfidious  as 
any  Pindarree,  was  often  for  months  together  in  the  heart  of  the 
country.  The  reputation  of  the  Jats  for  courage  appears  to 
have  preserved  them,  in  part,  from  the  worst  of  those  horrors  to 
which  the  Rajpoots,  feeble  and  disunited,  were  exposed ; and 
now  even  in  Jyepoor,  the  family  may  go  to  rest  in  peace,  and 
with  a tolerable  security  against  murder,  torture,  and  violence. 
Still,  however,  in  so  low  a state  of  society,  it  is  chiefly  to  a man’s 
own  sword  that  he  must  look  to  guard  his  head,  and  cattle-stealing 
and  highway  robbery  are  hardly  accounted  crimes.  At  Wuerh 
we  saw  all  the  cows,  sheep,  and  goats  carefully  driven  into  the 
city  about  sun-set ; and  here,  and  southwards  into  Malwah  and 
the  Deccan,  as  I am  informed,  no  night  passes  but 

“ The  frightened  flocks  and  herds  are  pent 
Beneath  the  Peel’s  rude  battlement.” 

At  Mowah  we  found  a vakeel  from  the  Rannee  of  Jyepoor, 
waiting  my  arrival  with  an  escort  of  twenty  horse,  and  a letter 
from  Colonel  Raper  the  Resident.  From  the  vakeel  we  learnt 
that  Sir  David  Ochterlony  was  still  at  Jyepoor,  in  high  friendship 
with  the  Rannee,  and  occupying  apartments  in  her  palace ; and 
that  the  Rannee  had  obtained  from  the  British  Government  all 
the  points  for  which  she  had  contended,  and  more  particularly 
the  recognition  of  her  favourite  as  prime  minister.  The  concession 
of  such  a point,  after  her  outrageous  conduct  towards  Colonel 
Raper,  and  after  the  positive  appeal  to  arms  which  had  been 
made  by  both  parties,  is  a sufficient  evidence  of  the  difficulties 
in  which  Government  found  themselves  a few  months  ago.  For 
me,  however,  it  is  fortunate,  since,  had  the  war  continued,  I could 
not  have  visited  Jyepoor,  and  it  is  even  probable  that  I should 
have  found  great  difficulty  in  passing  through  any  part  of  the 
western  and  southern  provinces. 

In  the  afternoon  we  took  our  usual  walk  through  the  town, 
attended  by  my  silver-sticks,  the  Rannee’s  vakeel,  with  three  or 
four  chuprassies,  the  two  duffiildars  of  our  horse,  the  old  soubah- 
dar,  and  the  goomashta.  I have  no  liking  for  all  this  train  which, 
on  this  occasion,  was  even  greater  than  usual,  and  had  the  addi- 
tional effect  of  drawing  after  us  two  or  three  score  boys.  Still 
it  is  dustoor^  and  to  emancipate  oneself  from  it  would  require 
more  trouble,  than  it  does  to  submit  to  it.  The  town  is  small 
but  has  a tolerably  good  bazar,  in  the  shops  of  which  I saw 
cutlery,  ornaments  of  gold  and  silver,  and  shawls,  as  well  as  the 
usual  more  rustic  commodities  of  cotton,  corn  and  flour,  ghee, 
and  coarse  cloth.  Yellow  seems  the  most  prevalent  colour  for 
all  garments  in  this  neighbourhood,  being  the  cheapest  and  most 


496 


RAMGHUR. 


durable.  The  beautiful  red  and  carmine  tints  with  which  we 
sometimes  see  the  cloths  dyed,  soon  wear  or  wash  out,  and  are 
obliged  to  be  frequently  renewed,  which  is,  however,  done  with- 
out difficulty.  A pair  of  common  blankets  of  the  same  colour 
and  appearance,  but  coarser  and  thinner  than  those  of  England, 
cost  one  rupee  and  a half.  I bought  them  for  my  horses,  the 
nights  having  lately  been  really  cold,  and  Dr.  Smith  assures  me 
that  on  the  high  level  of  Central  India  we  shall  find  it  cold  all 
next  month.  In  the  course  of  our  walk  we  passed  a sugar-mill 
of  good  construction,  with  a stone  to  grind  the  canes. 

This  evening  our  good,  careful,  old  soubahdar  had  a parade  of 
his  men,  and  a general  inspection  of  their  arms.  The  muskets 
were  all  loaded  and  fresh  dinted,  and  at  night,  instead  of  the 
usual  three  or  four  sentries,  he  fmade  twenty  men  bivouac  in 
two  parties  of  twelve  and  eight  to  the  north  and  south  of  our 
little  encampment.  I told  him  that  I thought  two  additional 
sentries  would  be  sufficient,  observing  that  we  were  in  a peace- 
able country.  He  shook  his  head,  and  said  that  it  was  never  so 
peaceable,  but  that  people  ought  to  be  on  their  guard ; that  the 
Raja  of  Bhurtpoor  was  a good  friend,  but  that  such  friends  as  we 
were  now  with  were  all  the  better  for  being  well  watched.  In 
short,  he  evidently  did  not  much  like  his  neighbours.  1 here 
dismissed  the  five  suwarrs  who  had  been  lent  me  by  the  Judge  of 
Agra ; the  party  of  Colonel  Skinner’s  men  would  find  their  way 
better  home  from  Jyepoor,  and  I therefore  still  keep  them.  If 
there  was  danger,  indeed,  of  which  1 see  no  probability,  they  would 
be  far  more  to  be  trusted  than  the  Rannee’s  horsemen. 

January  25. — This  morning,  being  Sunday,  was  a halting-day. 
Before  breakfast  I took  a walk  towards  the  rocks,  and  that  more 
particularly  on  which  the  fortress  stands  which  I have  described. 

1 went  alone  by  iny  express  desire,  but  I was  perceived  and  fol- 
lowed by  the  two  orderly  sepoys,  who  overtook  me  before  I had 
got  half  way  across  the  plain.  I asked  them  why  they  came,  to 
which  they  replied  that  “it  was  not  fit  I should  go  alone.” 
Others,  indeed,  seemed  to  be  of  the  same  opinion,  for  before  I 
reached  the  further  village  two  of  Colonel  Skinner’s  men  and 
the  chobdar  came  running  after  me.  For  all  this  I am  convinced 
there  was  not  the  smallest  need,  since,  during  the  half  hour  that 
I was  by  myself,  1 had  met  some  of  the  inhabitants,  and  found 
them  perfectly  civil  and  ready  to  answer  all  my  questions.  But 
when  people  give  themselves  trouble  out  of  good  will,  it  is 
impossible  to  find  fault  with  them. 

Thus  reinforced,  I walked  through  this  village,  which  its  people 
called  Ramghur,  to  the  rock  on  which  their  castle  stands.  This 
last,  unlike  the  fort  of  Mowah,  is  built  of  stone,  with  six  round 
towers  perched  on  a steep  eminence,  with  a double  embattled 


IIAMGHUR, 


49? 


wall  stretching  down  one  side  to  a wall  at  its  foot.  1 had  no 
great  curiosity  to  see  the  inside,  but  the  sepoys  said  they  were 
sure  I should  not  be  refused  permission,  and  even  doubted  whether 
the  place  was  occupied.  I climbed  up,  therefore,  by  a steep 
winding  path,  at  first  among  cottages,  then  through  the  tangled 
branches  of  fruit  trees  and  underwood,  and  lastly  through  some 
ruined  outworks,  till  1 came  to  the  strong  iron-clenched  door  of 
the  fortress.  This  too  stood  ajar,  but  I no  sooner  put  my  head 
through  it  than  two  or  three  men,  who  were  lying  down  within, 
started  up  in  great  confusion  and  gave  the  alarm,  on  which  ten  or 
twelve  more  ran  forwards  and  inquired  what  I wanted.  I asked 
if  I might  see  the  inside  of  the  castle,  to  which  the  principal  per- 
son answered  with  joined  hands  and  very  respectfully,  that  he 
could  not  let  any  one  enter  without  orders.  The  sepoys  began 
to  remonstrate,  and  the  “ killedar”  (governor  of  a fort)  was  evi- 
dently confused,  and  might,  I have  no  doubt,  have  been  prevailed 
on.  But  it  was  really  very  little  worth  while,  and  1 did  not  like  to 
expose  the  poor  man  to  the  chance  of  a reproof  from  his  supe- 
riors, or  to  excite  any  jealousy  of  the  people  among  whom  we 
were,  by  expressing  curiosity  about  their  means  of  defence.  I 
therefore  turned  round  to  go  down  the  hill,  on  which  the  defend- 
ers of  the  fort  shut  their  door  with  exceeding  good-will,  and  I 
heard  them  drawing  all  the  bolts  one  after  the  other.  From  the 
rocks,  without  the  rampart,  I had  as  extensive  a view  as  1 could 
desire  over  a level  country,  interspersed  with  similar  little  emi- 
nences, each,  as  well  as  I could  perceive,  with  its  village  and  its 
castle.  The  principal  chain  of  hills  runs  pretty  nearly  north  and 
south. 

On  my  return  by  a different  track  across  the  plain,  I passed 
several  wells,  with  oxen  and  men  at  work  drawing  water  for  the 
fields.  The  vakeel  met  me  half  way,  and  expressed  concern  that 
I had  met  with  any  hinderance  in  visiting  the  fort.  He  seemed, 
however,  well  pleased  with  the  indifference  which  I expressed. 
The  night  had  been  very  clear  and  cold,  but  after  breakfast  it 
began  to  rain,  and  continued  cold  and  drizzling  the  greater  part 
of  the  day.  Soon  after  I had  read  prayers,  the  Vakeel  called  to 
say  that  he  would  fine,  or  punish  in  any  other  way  which  I 
thought  best,  the  killedar  and  his  men  for  repelling  me  from  the 
fort  of  Ramghur.  Of  course  1 told  him  that  these  people,  not 
knowing  who  I was,  did^no  more  than  their  duty,  and  that  I was 
not  at  all  displeased  with  them.  This,  I suppose,  satisfied  him  ; 
indeed  I exceedingly  doubt  whether,  if  I had  been  fool  enough  to 
insist  on  their  being  punished,  such  chastisement  would  ever  have 
been  inflicted.  1 received  in  the  afternoon  a message  from 
Colonel  Raper,  with  some  baskets  of  bread  and  fruit.  The  bread 
came  at  a very  good  time,  as  we  were  just  commencing  on  a 

VoL.  I. — 63 


498 


RAMGHUR. 


course  of  Hindoostanee  chapatees,  which  are  not  a very  good 
substitute. 

A brahmin,  with  a very  large  tumour  on  his  wrist,  came  to  ask 
medical  aid.  Dr.  Smith  said  it  would  certainly  kill  him  by  de- 
grees unless  his  hand  was  cut  off,  to  which  the  poor  man  readily 
agreed,  and  said  he  would  follow  us  to  Jyepoor,  where  Dr.  Smith 
undertook  to  perform  the  operation,  and  I promised  him  two  anas 
a day  for  his  maintenance  during  the  journey.  He  seemed  very 
thankful  to  us  both,  and  said  he  would  bring  his  wife  with  him  to 
nurse  him  and  dress  his  victuals.  He  was  much  comforted  too 
by  my  telling  him  that  there  were  many  brahmins  in  my  party. 
Indeed  1 had  no  doubt  that  they  would  take  very  good  care  of 
him.  It  is  pleasant  to  think  that  our  halt  this  day  in  his  village 
may  have  been  the  means  of  preserving  his  life,  by  encouraging 
him  to  apply  for  help. 

The  weather  clearing  up  a little  in  the  evening,  we  were  sur- 
prised to  see,  on  looking  out  of  our  tents,  a camp  near  us  still 
larger  than  mine,  with  an  elephant  feeding  under  the  trees,  some 
carts  covered  with  red  cloth,  a large  double-poled  tent,  and  a 
considerable  body  of  horsemen,  with  their  spears  planted  in 
the  ground,  and  their  lean  bony  chargers  tethered  in  two  lines.  On 
inquiry  we  found  that  the  Maharannee  had  vowed  a golden  image 
to  a shrine  at  Bindrabund,  and  that  “ his  lordship  the  idol”  (to 
use  the  expression  of  the  vakeel,  “ Moorud  Bahadur,”)  was  going 
to  his  destination  under  the  care  of  one  of  her  confidential  ser- 
vants. The  principal  of  the  rutts,  which  had  struck  our  notice, 
was  for  his  conveyance.  Some  of  his  lordship’s”  escort  came 
up  to  say  that  they  were  to  join  me  next  day,  and  to  be  relieved 
in  their  present  service  by  a part  of  the  troops  now  in  Mowah. 
The  man  who  said  this  was  a striking  specimen  of  a Rajpoot 
chief,  young  and  handsome,  but  dirty  in  his  dress,  boisterous  in 
his  manner,  talking  with  a great  deal  of  gesticulation,  many  winks, 
nods,  beckonings,  and  other  marks  of  intelligence,  and  more  than 
half  drunk.  All  the  Rajpoots  are  said  to  be  addicted  to  opium, 
and  the  appearance  of  these  men  was  far  more  that  of  robbers 
than  soldiers,  and  strikingly  inferior,  not  only  to  Skinner’s  men, 
but  to  the  Jats  of  Bullumghur.  In  the  course  of  the  evening 
some  of  them  straggled  into  the  camp,  professing  in  the  dusk  to 
have  mistaken  it  for  their  own,  a blunder  which  occasioned  a good 
deal  of  merriment  to  our  sepoys,  whq,  apparently  with  truth, 
ascribed  it  to  intoxication. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  I overheard  a conversation  among  the 
people  of  the  village,  in  which  they  compared  the  present  peace- 
able times  with  those  in  which  “ Ameer  Khan  and  Bappoo  Sindia 
came  up  with  their  horsemen  and  spoiled  all  the  land,  and  smote 
all  the  people,  and  burnt  the  cities  through  Meywar  and  Marwar 


MAUNPOOR. 


499 


till  thou  comest  unto  the  salt  wilderness.”  I give  their  own 
words  ; but  what  struck  me  most  of  all,  “ corn,”  they  said,  “ had 
been  getting  gradually  cheaper,  and  notwithstanding  the  late  un- 
favourable season,  was  still  not  so  dear  as  it  used  to  be  in  the 
years  of  trouble.”  When  such  have  been  the  effects  of  British 
supremacy,  who  will  refuse  to  pray  for  the  continuance  of  our 
empire  ? Rain  came  on  again  as  night  closed  in. 

January  24. — We  proceeded  to  Maunpoor,  eight  long  coss, 
through  an  open  sandy  country.  About  half  way  we  passed  a 
chain  of  hills  at  a place  called  Balaherry.  The  hill  tops  are 
thickly  studded  with  castles,  some  of  them  of  a considerable  size, 
and  extremely  like  buildings  of  the  same  kind  in  England.  We 
passed  no  fewer  than  seven  in  the  day’s  march.  The  rocks, 
where  visible  through  the  sand  and  withered  herbage,  are  granite. 
To  the  west  of  the  hills  we  found  a plain  similar  to  that  which 
we  had  left,  but  I think  rather  more  elevated.  It  is  traversed  by 
a river,  now  indeed  completely  dry,  called  Maungunga,  but  which 
from  the  width  of  its  bed  must  be,  during  the  rains,  a very  con- 
siderable torrent. 

The  night  had  cleared  up,  and  the  morning  was  cool  and  bracing. 
The  breakfast-tent  had  not  been  able  to  set  out  so  early  as  usual, 
and  we  arrived  on  our  encamping  ground  at  the  same  time  with 
the  people.  The  spot  fixed  on  was  a dry  elevated  plain  about  a 
quarter  of  a mile  from  the  little  town  of  Maunpoor,  without  any 
trees,  which  at  this  season  of  the  year  are  not  required,  but  with 
a large  well  close  to  us,  of  the  water  of  which  the  sepoys  took 
care  to  taste  before  the  place  of  encampment  was  determined  on. 
The  Rannee’s  horsemen  again  pitched  by  themselves,  and  close 
to  the  town.  I had  found  them  during  the  march  civil  and  com- 
municative, but  so  ill-mounted  that  they  could  hardly  keep  up 
with  us.  1 asked  their  leader  some  of  the  usual  questions  about 
game,  &c.  He  said  there  were  many  deer,  but  those  of  his  caste 
' never  killed  any.  All  animals,  indeed,  here  seem  to  feel  that  man 
is  not  their  enemy.  The  partridges  repeatedly  crossed  the  road 
close  to  our  horse’s  hoofs,  the  deer  raised  their  heads  to  look  at 
the  cavalcade,  and  stooped  them  down  to  graze  again,  and  the 
peacocks  were  quite  as  tame  as  in  a barn-yard.  I would  not  on 
any  account,  except  real  want  of  food,  have  broken  this  harmony, 
or  injured  this  unsuspecting  confidence. 

Maunpoor  is  a small  town  on  the  plain  surrounded  by  a mud 
wall,  with  eight  semicircular  bastions,  and  a ditch  now  dry,  but 
the  works  are  in  bad  repair.  If  the  present  tranquillity  were  to 
last  ten  or  fifteen  years,  it  is  to  be  doubted  whether  any  mud  forts 
would  remain  in  the  country,  save  those  which  the  old  families  of 
rank  and  feudal  pride  might  still  keep  up  as  monuments  of  old 
times.  Still  there  are  every  year  quarrels  among  some  or  other 


500 


DOOBEE. 


of  these  Rajpoot  nobles;  and  no  season,  I am  told,  has  yet  passed, 
in  which  the  troops  at  Nusseerabad  have  not  been  called  out  as 
peace-makers,  or  to  inflict  chastisement.  This  is  not  the  case 
in  Malwah,  where  Sir  John  Malcolm  has  established  the  territo- 
rial arrangement  on  so  firm  a basis,  that  not  a musket  h^s  since 
been  fired  there  except  against  professed  and  public  robbers. 

About  noon  this  day  I had  an  unpleasant  discussion  with  the 
vakeel,  who  would  not  authorise  our  mohouts  and  suwarrs  to  cut 
boughs  for  the  elephants  and  camels  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
camp,  but  told  them  they  might  go  to  a wood  six  miles  distant, 
which  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  do.  The  men,  in  conse- 
quence, went  to  look  out  for  themselves  in  the  environs  of  a de- 
serted village  near  us,  and  while  thus  engaged  were  attacked  and 
beaten  by  some  country  people.  I found  that  the  vakeel’s 
reluctance  arose  from  the  superstitious  veneration  which  all  over 
India  is  paid  by  the  Hindoos  to  the  peepul-tree,  which  was  the 
only  description  of  tree  proper  for  our  purpose  in  any  part  of  this 
neighbourhood.  I offered,  if  he  would  procure  a supply  of  sugar- 
cane, meal,  and  bran  sufficient  to  feed  the  animals,  to  let  the 
trees  alone,  but  this  it  seemed  the  village  could  not  afford.  He 
said  we  might  if  we  pleased  cut  the  trees  with  the  “ strong  hand,” 
without  regarding  the  murmurs  of  the  villagers.  But  this  was 
exactly  what  I wished  to  avoid,  and  to  prevent  the  necessity  of 
which  the  Rannee  had  sent  him  to  attend  me.  1 urged  that  I 
did  not  require  him  or  any  of  his  people  to  cut  the  sacred  tree  for 
us,  but  that  I insisted  on  his  sending  a chuprassee  with  my  people 
to  acquaint  the  Rannee’s  subjects,  that  they  were  her  guests,  and 
acting  by  her  authority.  He  at  length  yielded,  and  abundance 
of  forage  was  brought  in  without  further  difficulty.  But  it  is 
evident  that  our  present  guide  falls  as  far  short  of  the  Bhurtpoor 
vakeel  in  honesty,  good  manners,  and  obliging  temper,  as  he  does 
in  lofty  stature  and  prepossessing  countenance.  He  is  of  the 
““  kayt,”  or  writer  caste,  and  1 have  seldom  seen  a face  in  which 
meanness  and  low  cunning  were  more  legibly  written. 

The  night  was  clear  and  very  cold,  at  least  for  the  plains’  of 
India.  A little  after  midnight  two  of  the  tattoos  broke  loose,  and 
made  their  escape  to  the  plain — a circumstance  the  more  vexa- 
tious, since  their  riders,  my  chobdar  and  sotaburdar,  were,  from 
lameness  and  age,  unqualified  for  foot  marches.  I was  obliged, 
therefore,  to  leave  them  behind,  with  two  or  three  Jyepoor  horse 
to  assist  in  catching  their  animals. 

We  ourselves  proceeded  {January  25th,)  to  Doobee,  six  coss. 
The  country  has  certainly  very  much  deteriorated  since  we  left 
the  Bhurtpoor  territory,  though  still  it  is  not  unpleasant  to  travel 
through ; we  continued  at  times  to  fall  in  with  the  bed  of  the 
Maungunga,  on  examining  which  more  closely  I saw  that  a 


DOOBEE. 


501 


stream  still  continued  to  force  its  way  under  the  sand,  distin- 
guishable by  the  line  of  verdure  which  its  secret  rills  kept  alive 
amid  the  surrounding  barrenness.  In  fact  I understand  that  by 
digging  a few  feet  in  the  bed  of  any  of  these  streams,  water  may 
usually  be  procured  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  Some  of  the  Ran- 
nee’s  suwarrs  were  now  changed  for  others  much  better  mounted, 
and  equipped,  and  the  cavalcade  was  considerably  more  respect- 
able, though  Skinner’s  horse  still  kept  up  their  decided  supe- 
riority. 

Doobee  is  a small  town  or  rather  village,  fortified  with  more 
care  and  on  a better  principle  than  any  I had  yet  seen.  A few 
pieces  of  ordnance  were  visible  on  the  bastions,  and  the  place 
was  calculated  to  defy  the  attacks  of  Ameer  Khan  and  his  whole 
army,  and,  if  well  defended,  to  require  a regular  siege  even  from 
European  troops.  The  neighbourhood,  however,  from  its  naked- 
ness, seems  to  have  suffered  severely  from  the  Pindarries  and 
other  enemies,  and  the  insecurity  of  property  is  sufficiently  shown 
by  the  fact,  that  during  the  two  last  days  we  have  seen  no  scat- 
tered dwellings,  and  no  village  without  its  means  of  defence. 
Forage  was  not  to  be  had  here  either  for  elephants  or  camels, 
but  the  vakeel  on  whom  my  recent  remonstrance  seems  to  have 
produced  some  effect,  had  provided  a good  stock  of  “ boosa,”  as 
well  as  of  dried  cow-dung  for  fuel. 

The  grass  when  we  set  out  this  morning  was  crisp  with  hoar 
frost,  and  my  people  complained  that  it  was  as  cold  as  if  they 
were  still  in  Kemaoon.  I did  not  quite  agree  with  them,  but  it 
certainly  was  cold  enough  to  make  our  morning  ride  agreeable, 
and  to  give  an  appetite  for  breakfast  as  keen  as  I ever  felt  in 
England.  The  kindness  of  my  friends  in  Delhi  and  Agra  had 
supplied  us  with  an  excellent  stock  of,  what  is  called,  hunter’s 
beef,  and  we  were  supplied  with  some  fresh  and  very  toler- 
ably well  tasted  butter  from  the  village — a circumstance  which 
I mention,  because  in  Hindostan  out  of  the  large  towns,  butter, 
save  in  the  form  of  ghee,  is  seldom  or  never  to  be  procured. 

About  eleven  o’clock  the  lost  ponies,  to  my  great  satisfaction, 
made  their  appearance.  They  had  strayed  to  a considerable  dis- 
tance, and  would  not  perhaps  have  been  so  easily  recovered  had 
they  been  very  much  worth  stealing. 

In  the  evening  we  walked  to  a pretty  little  Hindoostanee  tomb, 
about  a mile  off,  consisting  of  an  octagonal  cupola  raised  on  pil- 
lars, with  a basement  story  containing  apartments  for  a brahmin 
and  his  family.  A young  man  whom  we  met  near  the  spot,  told 
me  it  was  built,  about  five  years  before,  in  memory  of  a neigh- 
bouring Zemindar.  This  young  man  said  he  was  himself  a trades- 
man in  the  village  of  Doobee.  Hearing  my  servants  express 
some  surprise  at  the  number  of  fortified  places  in  this  country, 


502 


JOURNEY  TO  DEOSA. 


he  began  to  tell  a long  story  about  the  horrors  inflicted  by  Ameer 
Khan  and  the  Pindarries  of  the  Deccan,  and  seemed  fully  sensi- 
ble of  the  advantageous  change  which  had  occurred.  His  dialect 
differed  a good  deal  from  the  Hindoostanee  to  which  I was 
accustomed,  but  1 made  out  his  meaning  pretty  well. 

January  26.— This  morning  was  extremely  cold,  and  the 
weather  seemed  to  operate  forcibly  on  all  my  people.  The 
Rannee’s  horse  were  none  of  them  at  their  post  when  we  set 
out,  even  Skinner’s  men  were  slow  in  mustering  to  attend  us,  and 
the  sepoys  having  found  the  remains  of  a fire  by  the  way-side 
during  the  march,  hustled  all  close  round  it,  and  allowed  the 
camels  to  go  on  with  no  guard  but  a single  havildar.  I found  it 
necessary  to  check  the  growth  of  these  irregularities,  and  gave 
orders  for  the  better  arrangement  and  government  of  our  little 
camp  in  future. 

The  country  through  which  we  passed  in  our  march  to  Deosa, 
about  six  coss  or  twelve  miles,  was  very  naked  and  desolate,  with 
no  marks  of  habitation  except  some  castles  dotted  on  the  distant 
hills,  and  one  large  village  about  a mile  from  our  road,  within 
whose  mud  walls  a few  trees  were  visible.  The  hills  are  of 
singular  forms,  most  of  them  insulated  and  rocky,  in  size,  shape, 
and  steepness,  a good  deal  resembling  that  on  which  Beeston 
Castle  stands.  The  soil  does  not  seem  bad,  but  the  land  has  lite- 
rally been  “ swept  with  the  besom  of  desolation,”  and  the  deer 
which  we  saw  bounding  among  the  low  prickly  shrubs,  and  the 
dead,  whose  tombs  are  scattered  here  and  there,  seem  the  natural 
proprietors  of  the  territory.  I should  add,  perhaps,  the  ravens, 
who  are  here  seen  in  considerable  numbers  and  of  large  size, 
though  1 do  not  remember  to  have  observed  them  elsewhere. 
The  country  resembled  extremely  a large  asstuary,  but  studded 
with  rocky  islands,  whose  sands  were  left  bare  by  the  receding 
tide  ; except  the  few  thorny  shrubs  I mentioned,  which  do  not 
grow  higher  than  common  heather,  not  a blade  of  verdure  was  to 
be  seen,  and  this  defect,  together  with  the  presence  of  the  rocky 
hills,  sufficiently  distinguishes  these  wilds  from  the  green  level 
steppes  of  Southern  Russia. 

Deosa  is  rather  a large  town,  built  on  one  side  of  a square 
table-like  hill  with  a sharp  peak  adjoining  to  it.  The  hill  is 
crowned  by  a very  extensive  fortress,  and  there  are  various  re- 
mains of  antiquity,  such  as  a large  tank,  now  ruinous  and  dry,  and 
a good  many  tombs,  which  evince  that  the  place  has  seen  better 
days.  From  its  name,  “ Deosa,”  or  Divine,  it  should  seem  to 
possess  a sacred  character,  and  even  now  we  found  a consider- 
able encampment  of  merchants  and  pilgrims,  with  flying  chairs, 
swings,  and  other  symptoms  of  a Hindoo  fair  or  festival.  It  turned 
out  to  be  one  which  I cannot  find  in  the  Calcutta  Almanac,  but 


HINDOO  FESTIVAL. 


503 


which  they  here  call  “ Pusund,”  and  it  was  celebrated  in  the 
course  of  the  day  with  a degree  of  glitter  and  show  which  I did 
not  expect  in  a place  apparently  so  poor  and  ruinous.  Two  little 
images  of  a male  and  female,  called,  I think,  Gungwala  and  Gung- 
walee,  were  carried  wrapped  up  in  a piece  of  kincob,  in  a very 
gaudy  gilded  rutt,  drawn  by  the  people  to  an  open  tent  pitched 
without  the  town.  A good  deal  of  drumming  and  singing  followed, 
and  the  ceremony  ended  by  pelting  each  other  with  red  powder, 
as  during  the  Hooly.  Meantime  the  usual  traffic  and  diversions 
of  a country  fair  went  on ; cakes,  cloth  of  different  kinds,  and 
coarse  trinkets,  were  exposed  in  considerable  abundance,  and  a 
good  many  of  the  people  whom  we  met  in  the  afternoon  had 
evidently  either  been  drinking  or  taking  opium.  We  walked 
through  the  town,  which  had  a ruined  wall  round  it,  and  contained 
one  fine  old  pagoda,  resembling  those  at  Benares,  several  smaller 
ones,  a Mussulman  mosque,  and  some  large  and  richly  carved 
stone  houses,  but  all  verging  to  decay.  The  ruin  of  the  town, 
as  of  the  rest  of  the  country,  was  laid  by  the  people  on  Ameer 
Khan,  though  they  did  not  seem  to  have  any  accurate  information 
about  the  matter,  and  owned  that  it  had  been  always  as  it  is  now 
in  their  memory.  Its  dilapidation,  I suspect,  is  of  older  date. 
There  are  some  very  elegant  tombs  without  the  walls,  and  al- 
together the  place  is  one  extremely  characteristic  of  the  ancient 
habits  of  India. 

The  images  which  we  saw  were  taken  back  to  their  pagoda  at 
night,  and  after  a few  days  more  of  similar  parade,  were  to  be 
committed  to  the  nearest  river  and  sunk  in  it,  where,  being  of 
unbaken  clay,  they  soon  dissolve.  It  is  said  that  this  is  the  relic 
of  a hideous  custom  which  still  prevails  in  Assam,  and  was  an- 
ciently practised  in  Egypt,  of  flinging  a youth  and  maiden,  richly 
dressed,  annually  into  their  sacred  river.  That  such  a custom 
formerly  existed  in  India,  is,  I believe,  a matter  of  pretty  uniform 
tradition.  But  this  practice  of  drowning  images  is  not  confined 
to  the  two  figures  in  question,  but  is  the  case  with  all  their  idols, 
except  a very  few.  Kali  in  her  various  forms,  and  the  other 
many-handed,  many-headed  potentates  who  are  worshipped  in 
Calcutta,  are  all  of  clay,  and  all  carried  in  like  manner,  after 
their  festivals,  to  be  absorbed  in  the  holy  stream,  a custom  which 
may  seem  rather  to  typify  the  inferiority,  confessed  by  the  Hin- 
doos themselves,  of  all  their  symbols  to  the  God  of  nature,  than 
to  recall  the  memory  of  an  ancient  piece  of  inhumanity. 

January  27.^ — This  morning  we  marched  eight  long  coss  to 
Mohunpoora.  In  the  way  I had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  some 
part  of  the  magnificence  which  Dr.  Smith  had  described,  for  we 
passed  Sir  David  Ochterlony  and  his  suite  on  his  road  to  Bhurt- 
poor.  There  certainly  was  a very  considerable  number  of  led 


504 


SIR  DAVID  OCHTERLONY. 


horsps,  elephants,  palanquins,  and  covered  carriages,  belonging 
chiefly,  1 apprehend,  (besides  his  own  family,)  to  the  families  of 
his  native  servants.  There  was  an  escort  of  two  companies  of 
infantry,  a troop  of  regular  cavalry,  and  I should  guess  forty  or 
fifty  irregulars,  on  horse  and  foot,  armed  with  spears  and  match- 
locks of  ail  possible  forms ; the  string  of  camels  was  a very  long 
one,  and  the  whole  procession  was  what  might  pass  in  Europe 
for  that  of  an  eastern  prince  travelling.  Still,  neither  in  num- 
bers nor  splendour  did  it  at  all  equal  my  expectation.  Sir  David 
himself  was  in  a carriage  and  four,  and  civilly  got  out  to  speak 
to  me.  He  is  a tall  and  pleasing-looking  old  man,  but  was  so 
wrapped  up  in  shawls,  kincob,  fur,  and  a Mogul  furred  cap,  that 
his  face  was  all  that  was  visible.  I was  not  sorry  to  have  even 
this  glimpse  of  an  old  oflicer  whose  exploits  in  India  have  been 
so  distinguished.  His  history  is  a curious  one.  He  is  the  son  of 
an  American  gentleman  who  lost  his  estate  and  country  by  his 
loyalty  during  the  war  of  the  separation.  Sir  David  himself 
came  out  a cadet,  without  friends,  to  India,  and  literally  fought 
his  way  to  notice.  The  most  brilliant  parts  of  his  career  were 
his  defence  of  Delhi  against  the  Maharatta  army,  and  the  conquest 
of  Kemaoon  from  the  Ghorkhas.  He  is  now  considerably  above 
seventy,  infirm,  and  has  been  often  advised  to  return  to  England. 
But  he  has  been  absent  from  thence  fifty-four  years  ; he  has  there 
neither  friend  nor  relation, — he  has  been  for  many  years  habituated 
to  eastern  habits  and  parade,  and  who  can  wonder  that  he  clings 
to  the  only  country  in  the  world  where  he  can  feel  himself  at 
home?  Within  these  lew  days  I had  been  reading  Coxe’s  Life 
of  Marlborough,  and  at  this  moment  it  struck  me  forcibly  how 
little  it  would  have  seemed  in  the  compass  of  possibility  to  any  of 
the  warriors,  statesmen,  or  divines  of  Queen  Anne’s  time,  that  an 
English  General  and  an  English  Bishop  would  ever  shake  hands 
on  a desert  plain  in  the  heart  of  Rajpootana ! 

About  two  coss  from  Deosa  is  a good-sized  village  with  a hand- 
some old  house  belonging  to  the  Raja,  and  a little  farther  a very 
beautiful  well  or  reservoir,  (“  boolee,”)  surrounded  with  cloisters, 
and  with  a handsome  gateway  of  three  gothic  arches.  It  is  said 
to  be  the  charitable  work  of  a merchant  of  Jyepoor,  now  alive. 
About  half  way  in  the  march  we  passed  another  low  line  of  hills, 
with  granite  summits,  and  sand-stone  valleys  and  sides,  like  that 
we  saw  yesterday,  and  succeeded  by  another  similar  plain.  It  is 
easy  to  observe,  that  we  are  rising  gradually  as  we  advance,  the 
descent  of  the  hills  to  the  west  never  being  so  great  as  their 
ascent  from  the  east. 

Mohunpoora  is  a small  and  poor  village,  with  a few  scattered 
patches  of  wheat  round  it,  but  neither  trees  nor  forage,  while  the 
neighbourhood  had  been  so  completely  exhausted  by  the  large 


MARCH  TO  JYEPOOR. 


605 


party  which  had  passed  the  day  before,  that  nothing  was  to  be 
procured  either  by  money  or  expostulation,  and  the  Rannee’s 
vakeel  either  would  not  or  could  not  do  us  any  good.  At  length 
I sent  one  of  the  sepoys,  a brahmin  and  the  elder  of  my  two  moun- 
tain attendants,  to  negotiate  with  the  Zemindars.  On  these  oc- 
casions a brahmin  is  always  the  best  messenger,  since  he  may  use 
what  language  he  sees  fit  without  danger,  and,  caeteris  paribus, 
the  people  are  always  more  ready  to  yield  to  his  proposals.  The 
man  knew  this  well,  and  went  therefore  without  his  clothes,  in 
order  that  his  sacred  string  might  be  more  conspicuous.  This 
measure  partially  succeeded : about  twelve  o’clock  some  hay  was 
brought  for  the  horses  who  were  fasting  till  now,  and  a very  little 
fuel  for  the  sepoys  who  were  equally  ill  off,  their  religion  pro- 
hibiting them  to  eat  victuals  cooked  on  the  preceding  day.  They 
conducted  themselves  with  their  usual  patience  and  good  temper, 
observing,  of  their  own  accord,  that  the  poor  people  of  the  coun- 
try were  in  want  themselves,  and  could  not  spare  to  strangers.  I 
found,  however,  in  consequence,  that  they  were"all  extremely  will- 
ing and  ready  to  make  a long  march  the  next  day  to  Jyepoor,  in 
order  to  get  out  of  this  “ hungry  country.” 

In  the  night  the  camp  was  visited  by  a thief  who  crept  in  be- 
tween the  sentries,  and  got  hold  of  the  clothes  of  one  of  the  tindals 
. who  was  asleep  on  the  outside  of  my  tent.  He  was  not  so  sound 
asleep,  however,  but  that  he  felt  the  blanket  as  it  was  drawn  away 
from  him,  and  starting  up  put  his  assailant  to  flight  in  an  instant. 
In  this  case,  probably,  the  robber  was  not  very  skilful  or  despe- 
rate, for  strange  stories  are  told  both  of  their  dexterity  in  stripping 
a sleeping  man,  and  of  the  severe  stabs  which  they  give  with 
their  daggers  if  detected.  Sir  John  Malcolm  has  a story  of  a play 
which  he  saw  performed  by  some  strollers  in  the  Maharatta  coun- 
try, the  plot  of  which  consisted  in  the  robbing  a merchant  of  his 
goods,  after  being  hospitably  received  by  the  treacherous  jemaut- 
dar  of  a village.  After  supper,  the  merchant  was  represented  as 
going  to  sleep  with  his  goods  all  round  him,  and  nothing  could 
be  more  artful  than  the  manner  in  which  the  thief  made  his  ap- 
proaches, gently  withdrawing  the  shawls  a quarter  of  an  inch  at 
a time,  while  at  every  slightest  movement  of  the  sleeping  man  his 
hand  was  immediately  on  his  dagger.  To  guard  against  such 
surprises,  I am  inclined  to  believe,  that  it  is  best  to  have  no  light 
in  the  tent,  since,  without  some  such  guide,  an  intruder  can  neither 
find  his  way  to  objects  of  value,  nor  can  well  avoid  making  some 
noise. 

January  28. — This  morning  was  dusky  and  close,  with  heavy 
clouds,  which  however  gradually  dispersed,  and  were  succeeded 
by  a good  deal  of  wind.  Our  march  to  Jyepoor  was  one  1 should 
think  of  nearly  twenty  miles.  The  early  part  of  it  was  over  a 

VoL.  I. — 64 


506 


MARCH  TO  JYEPOOR. 


desolate  plain  of  deep  sand,  traversed  by  a nullah,  the  windings 
of.  which  we  twice  fell  in  with.  About  eight  miles  from  Jyepoor 
we  came  to  a deep  water-course,  apparently  the  work  of  art, 
and  with  a small  stream  in  it  flowing  from  the  hills  to  which  we 
were  approaching.  Round  its  edge  some  little  cultivation  was 
visible,  though  nothing  could  exceed  the  dry  and  hungry  nature 
of  the  sand  which  was  under  us  and  around  us,  and  which  now 
began  to  be  interspersed  with  sharp  stones  and  bits  of  rock.  The 
hills,  as  we  drew  near,  appeared  higher  and  steeper  than  those 
which  \5ie  had  hitherto  crossed,  but  entirely  of  rock,  shingle  and 
sand,  without  a blade  of  vegetation  of  any  kind,  except  a very 
little  grass  edging  here  and  there  the  stony,  ragged  water-course 
which  we  ascended,  and  which  was  our  only  road.  The  desola- 
tion was  almost  sublime,  and.  would  have  been  quite  so  had  the 
hills  been  of  a more  commanding  elevation.  The  pass  grew 
narrower,  the  path  steeper  and  more  rugged  as  we  proceeded 
along  it,  and  the  little  stream  which  we  were  ascending,  instead 
of  dimpling  amid  the  grass  and  stones,  now  leapt  and  bounded 
from  crag  to  crag  like  a Welch  rivulet.  Still  all  was  wild  and 
dismal,  when,  on  a turn  of  the  road,  we  found  ourselves  in  front 
of  a high  turreted  and  battlemented  wall,  pierced  with  a tier  of 
arched  windows,  showing  us  beyond  them  the  dark  green  shades 
of  a large  Oriental  garden.  A grim-looking  old  gateway  on  one 
side,  built  close  to  the  road,  and  seeming  almost  to  form  a part 
of  it,  showed  us  the  path  which  we  were  to  pursue,  and  1 was 
thinking  of  Thalaba  on  “the  brideless  steed”  at  the  gate  of 
Aloaddin’s  paradise,  and  felt  almost  ready  to  look  round  for  the 
bugle-horn  suspended  in  the  portal,  when  the  English  uniform 
appeared  to  dissolve  the  illusion,  and  Colonel  Raper,  who  had 
good-naturedly  come  out  thus  far  to  meet  me,  rode  up  to  wel- 
come me. 

On  seeing  him  I at  first  hoped  that  we  had  already  arrived  at 
the^  gate  of  Jyepoor,  but  he  told  me  that  we  had  still  four  miles 
of  very  bad  road  before  us.  The  rampart  which  we  now  passed 
is  intended  to  guard  the  approach,  and  the  garden  which  I men- 
tioned is  one  of  several  attached  to  different  temples  founded  in 
this  wild  situation  by  the  same  sovereign,  Jye  Singh,  who  built 
the  city.  Of  these  temples  we  passed  through  a little  street, 
with  very  picturesque  buildings  on  each  side  of  it,  and  gardens 
perpetually  green  from  the  stream  which  we  were  now  leaving, 
and  which  derives  its  source  from  a considerable  pool  higher  up, 
in  the  bosom  of  the  hills.  Our  own  track  emerged  on  an  ele- 
vated but  sandy  and  barren  plain,  in  which,  nevertheless,  some 
fields  of  wheat  were  seen,  and,  what  surprised  me,  some  fine 
peepul-trees.  This  plain,  which  seems  to  have  been  once  a lake, 
is  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  the  same  barren  stony  hills,  and 


JYEPOOR. 


507 


has  in  its  centre  the  city  of  Jyepoor,  a place  of  considerable 
extent,  with  fortifications  so  like  those  of  the  Kremlin,  that  I 
could  almost  have  fancied  myself  at  Moscow.  The  wall  is  high, 
with  dentellated  battlements  and  lofty  towers,  extremely  pictu- 
resque, but  with  no  pretensions  to  strength,  having  neither  ditch 
nor  glacis.  Its  security  must,  of  course,  depend  on  the  forts  by 
which  the  summits  of  the  surrounding  hills  are  crowned.  But 
though  these  might  ruin  it,  and  prevent  an  enemy  from  occupying 
it  when  taken,  they  could  not  save  it  against  a spirited  and  well- 
directed  attack  from  the  plain.  Nevertheless  it  stood  a long 
siege  from  Ameer  Khan,  a fact  which  would  prove  that  ruffian 
to  be  as  bad  a general  as  he  was  an  adroit  and  merciless  plun- 
derer, had  it  not  been  suspected  that  he  purposely  delayed  the 
assault  on  the  town,  both  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  a large  ran- 
som, which  would  go  into  his  own  coffers,  and  in  the  fear  that 
his  men,  if  once  enriched  by  the  indiscriminate  plunder  of  the 
city,  would  many  of  them  disperse  and  leave  him. 

The  trees  with  which  the  buildings  are  intermingled,  and  the 
gardens,  which,  in  spite  of  the  hungry  soil,  are  scattered  round 
it,  make  up  a very  singular  and  romantic,  or  I might  almost  say, 
a beautiful  scene.  The  Residency  is  a small  palace,  formerly  a 
garden-house  of  the  Raja’s,  and  surrounded  by  a high  embattled 
wall.  Within  which  is  a good  garden  of  most  English  vegetables 
and  Indian  fruit-trees.  Water  is  every  where  to  be  found  close 
to  the  surface,  and  with  water  even  the  most  sterile  tracts,  in 
this  climate,  become  tolerably  fruitful.  My  tents  were  pitched 
in  the  plain  before  the  Residency  gates,  but  Colonel  Raper  had 
kindly  provided  an  excellent  tent  for  me  close  to  his  door,  and 
within  his  garden,  of  which  I gladly  availed  myself,  both  to  get 
out  of  the  way  of  the  glaring  white  sand  and  dust  of  the  Meidan, 
and  also  to  enable  Skinner’s  horsemen,  who  had  no  tents,  to  take 
shelter  in  mine  during  my  stay  at  Jyepoor,  an  indulgence  for 
which  they  were  very  grateful. 


END  OF  VOLUME  I. 


3 3125  01211  4100 


